By Molly Boyer, 2021 Big SEKI Loop Hiker
The Big SEKI Loop is a 155-mile loop in the High Sierra in California that can be modified in multiple ways. The route was created originally as an alternative to the John Muir Trail and can be hiked in 7-17 days.
Region: Pacific West (Sequoia-Kings Canyon National Park, California)
Distance: ~155 miles with options to modify (7-17 days)
Physical Difficulty: Difficult
- Steep climbs
- Rugged, less maintained trail
- Potential extreme weather
Logistical Difficulty: Moderate
- Permits required; availability varies based on starting location
- Loop trail with option to modify mileage
- Potential long food carries, with ability to resupply
Season: Summer
Elevation (average): ~8,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: ~36,000 feet
Hiking the Big SEKI Loop
The Big SEKI Loop was designed as an alternative to the popular John Muir Trail. Created by Amy and James of Doing Miles, using 58 miles of the JMT, a portion of the High Sierra Trail, and other less-known trails in Sequoia-Kings Canyon National Park, it covers some of the most spectacular views, and difficult climbs the park has to offer. When hiking the more popular established trails, signage, trail maintenance/markers, and water supply are rarely a concern. The less-traveled sections are full of bushwhacking while walking in ankle-deep water. Cairn finding is common heading up non-JMT passes, as are days without seeing other people. Regardless of what part of the trail, the climbs are often steep. Afternoon thunderstorms can be a fact of life. Snow and ice are possible in the earlier or later parts of the season, considering the trail reaches 13,100 feet elevation at Forester Pass.
The loop can be started from inside the national park at Roads End, or from Onion Valley via Kearsarge Pass (adding 14 miles round trip), and can be traveled in either direction. Starting location/direction will influence permit logistics and resupply needs. I chose to start from Roads End, heading clockwise. This allowed me an easier-to-obtain permit and more options for modification if I needed to cut my hike short, and I was able to go with the flow of the majority of traffic on the JMT. Besides my extra miles to resupply I never had to leave the backcountry.
The hike can be modified into a figure-8, or a northern and southern loop section, both loops being 80-90 miles. You can also choose your adventure regarding which pass to connect the loop. If you want to cut the loop in half, you can utilize the Bubbs Creek Trail, which runs almost directly across the center of the loop. This allows for flexibility in resupply options if you’d like to do shorter food carries/shorter mileage days/take on the adventure in sections. You can use Colby Pass for a shorter loop (~130 miles) or Elizabeth Pass (~155 miles) for the longer loop, both connecting back through Avalanche Pass and to Roads End.
For logistical purposes, I’ll refer to things in the way I encountered them. Going clockwise, from Roads End, taking Elizabeth Pass, and back to Roads End.
The climb out of Roads End with a week’s worth of food was brutal, starting just as an afternoon storm rolled in. Then the trail disappears … both off the map and in front of you. After Granite Pass, the only people I saw were NPS employees doing backcountry work. They asked if I was hiking the Big SEKI Loop or the Sierra High Route, as those are typically the only hikers they encountered. They also warned of an upcoming dry section. From here, the trail was short on switchbacks, and I was unable to gain much purchase. Water was also inaccessible until reaching the creek in Simpson Meadow.
It begins to flatten out in Simpson Meadow before reaching a junction, then quickly becomes overgrown on its way to join the JMT. Water was flowing down the trail—the section I was warned “the trail is a creek.”
Once you connect with the JMT, the trail is more maintained and more traveled as it begins to climb the Golden Staircase heading for Mather Pass. This is followed by Pinchot, Glen, and Forester passes before leaving the JMT where it meets the High Sierra Trail (HST) at Wallace Creek. Sharing the trail with the HST, you descend into Junction Meadow, which is where you can shorten your trip by taking Colby Pass, or you can continue down the valley, following the river until Kern Hot Spring—a nice camping or lunch spot. You’ll find a cement tub—big enough for two if you’re friendly—with hot water piped in next to the raging Kern River. Note that this location burned in 2020 during the Rattlesnake fire. The privy, food storage lockers, and tub all survived thanks to the firefighters.
From Kern Hot Spring the trail quickly gains elevation toward Moraine Lake, or Upper Funston Meadow. If I was ready to camp, Moraine Lake would be my choice. Either direction, you end up back on the HST heading for Big Arroyo. The climb from Big Arroyo is slow and steady up toward Kaweah Gap, and Precipice Lake, made famous by Ansel Adams. The colors of this lake are incredible, and it offers a few rocky camping locations for those who need it.
For a less technical set-up, continue toward Hamilton Lakes. A popular backcountry destination, Hamilton Lakes has incredible scenery but limits the stay to one night. There is a privy located here, and be sure to tuck away trekking poles, sweaty clothing, and gear the deer may chew on.
Shortly after descending from Hamilton Lakes, the trail turns to leave the HST and follows the trail toward Elizabeth Pass. There is not much in the way of camp spots until you reach the turnoff for Tamarack Lake about 3.5 miles before Elizabeth Pass. Here is another area that sees much less trail work. It is often overgrown, and marked solely by cairns getting closer to the pass. Once over the pass, follow granite switchbacks into Deadman’s Canyon. This was possibly one of my favorite parts on the trail, and I shared it with no one.
Once out of the glaciated canyon, you arrive at the backcountry Roaring River Ranger Station. This is where the Colby Pass variation reconnects. From here the signage is pretty clear directing you to Avalanche Pass, another pass mostly marked by rock cairns. When descending, keep an eye out for some of the more impressive trail work I’ve ever seen in the Sierra.
Utilizing the Bubbs Creek Trail, the descent comes quickly until you are just miles from Roads End.
*At the time of this writing in fall 2021 there are wildfires in the park, adjacent to portions of the trail the loop utilizes. Further burn scars may overlap this loop as a result.
Big SEKI Loop Permits
Permits are required for backcountry travel within Sequoia/Kings Canyon. The starting location impacts who issues your permit. They are $5 per person, and usually have a recreation/reservation fee of around $10.
The reservations for permits open on a six-month rolling window. (Permits for July 25 open January 25). Whether you need one from the national park or the US Forest Service, both can be found on Recreation.gov. Permits from the national park side can be reserved six months to one week before the start of your hike. The permit will need to be picked up in person by the leader or designated alternate listed on the reservation, from the ranger station before the start of your hike.
You’ll be asked for an itinerary, though the park does not hold you to it, and you are allowed to modify when obtaining your permit. The website may require you to list the first night of camping to book your reservation. A limited number of walk-up permits may be issued to hikers without reservations on a first-come, first-served basis.
From mid-May to late September, trailhead entries are quota-based. During non-quota season, permits are still obtained similarly, just without limits on the number of people starting on any given day.
If you start from Roads End, going clockwise you would need a permit starting from Copper Creek. There is often availability for walk-ups. This trailhead is mostly used for people hiking this loop, or for hikers to access the Sierra High Route.
If you want to go counterclockwise, you need a Bubbs Creek permit. This is much more coveted as it is a starting location for the Rae Lakes Loop, a popular backpacking loop in Kings Canyon.
If you want to start from Onion Valley, you need a permit for Kearsarge Pass from the US Forest Service.
How to Get to the Big SEKI Loop
Nearest City to Western Trailhead: Fresno, California (90 miles)
Nearest City to Eastern Trailhead: Independence, California (14 miles)
Trailhead / Roads End ($35 entry fee per car; entrance pass)
Trailhead / Onion Valley
Since the loop can be accessed from either side of the Sierra Nevada, there are technically two trailheads. Onion Valley is a short drive off US Highway 395, while Roads End is a long and winding road that takes you deep into the park until you dead-end at the ranger station. You are allowed to park long-term at both locations without a fee. This makes it easy to park your car and simply hike back to it. If you prefer to not leave a car, public transportation can get you into Independence, and a hitch or shuttle can take you up to the campground at Onion Valley.
If heading for Roads End, follow State Route180 until it dead-ends at the ranger station. After picking up your permit, the trail begins just behind the ranger station, climbing upward toward Copper Creek. You have to reach Tent Meadow before you are allowed to set up camp, about 5 miles into the hike. The climb from Roads End feels practically straight up, from 5,000 feet to 11,000 feet over 11 miles.
When to Hike the Big SEKI Loop
Summer is the best time to hike the Big SEKI Loop. With passes often at or above 11,000 feet, snow and icy conditions are likely during shoulder season attempts. Late or early- season snowfall is possible. June may have lingering snow, July is the peak for wildflowers (and mosquitoes), and in August both flowers and bugs are declining. Fall foliage is possible to spot in September. It’s important to note the park has had fire closures and restrictions starting in mid to late summer for the past several years.
Summer in the Sierra Nevada generally means midday thunderstorms, so setting yourself up to be over passes early in your day will be the safest bet. Crowding can be a consideration on parts that the trail that share the hiker superhighway of the JMT/PCT, and there are often areas that restrict camping for the sake of restoration. It’s not a concern on less-traveled sections of this trail.
| Miles/Days (average) | Days to complete(rounded) |
| 10 | 15 |
| 12 | 13 |
| 15 | 10 |
| 18 | 9 |
| 20 | 8 |
Big SEKI Loop Trail Terrain
The sections of trail on the JMT are well-maintained, from aspen forests to granite staircases snaking through mountain passes. The burn scar in the Kern Valley is short but harsh. The climb from Copper Creek is steep and strenuous. Some of the passes are marked almost entirely by rock cairns, or the trail has been completely overgrown. Where it isn’t overgrown, it is likely washed out. Repairs for blowouts or downed bridges potentially take all hiking season or longer. Some water crossings have built-in structures to cross, others do not or they have been washed out. These crossings can be dangerous during high snow years or any time the water current is strong. The last few miles to a pass may be lacking water sources late in the season or in dry years.
Big SEKI Loop Resupply Strategy
It’s possible to do the trail in a single food carry depending on how fast you hike, and how much food you need to bring. One big caveat: it all needs to fit in a park-approved bear canister. If you want to resupply for your hike you have a few options. The two trailhead options lie roughly halfway through the loop, making it an obvious resupply. If you have a very kind friend, they might be willing to hike in to deliver your food.
Mule-packing companies can bring a resupply to you on the trail, and there are businesses in Independence that will accept your mail drop. These companies sometimes offer rides to and from the trailhead. It is an additional 14 miles round trip from the trail to Onion Valley trailhead. It’s possible to send something general delivery mail to Independence, get a hitch into town, and back to the trailhead, and I was offered a ride into town quickly.
I would recommend sending a mail drop, as the town is small and doesn’t offer much in the way of grocery stores. Local options include a food mart and gas stations that carry typical hiker food as well as fuel. The closest town to get a full-sized chain grocery store resupply in would be Bishop, 40 miles away.
If you start in Onion Valley, you could bribe someone to bring you a resupply at Roads End but logistically it might be easier to just double back using Bubbs Creek to create a figure 8, back to Onion Valley (and your car if you left it there) to resupply yourself.
I resupplied with Mt. Williamson Motel, sending my bucket ahead. They have the option of staying overnight at the motel, or they can pick you up from the trailhead, drive you to the town where your mail is waiting, and drop you back off at Onion Valley later that evening.
Logistics: Camping, Permits, Land Management, Water, Gear
Camping and Permits: You need a backcountry permit—issued from the Forest Service or the national park depending on point of entry—for the entirety of the trail. Your reservation is not the permit. The permit will be issued by the rangers the day before or the day of your hike. The cost is $5 per person, and often a recreation/reservation fee of $6-$10.
You also need a free California CampFire permit if you plan to use your stove or have any open flame on the trail. These can be obtained online after watching a short video and taking a quiz.
Camping along trails is permitted at established campsites 200 feet from the water. If they are established sites within 25-100 feet of water, Sequoia-Kings Canyon allows you to camp there. There are certain lakes or areas that have either night limit restrictions or restrict camping entirely for restoration. These are marked by signs on the trail and in those locations. It’s unlikely you’ll find an enjoyable campsite the last mile before a pass.
What Type of Land: All of the Big SEKI Loop is national park land, with the exception being if you enter or resupply through Kearsarge Pass to Onion Valley.
Water: Water is plentiful on the sections of the JMT/PCT, and most of the HST. There are a few longer carries that the park service warned me about. It can be dry coming over Granite Basin after leaving Copper Creek. After leaving Dougherty Creek, it’s very dry until Simpson Meadow. You then follow a water source to the JMT. Once you leave the HST for either Elizabeth Pass or Colby Pass, it would be best to fill up. The water sources are often dry the last 3 miles to the pass and are sometimes dry for a while on the other side. I took Elizabeth Pass, and there was a 4-mile carry in July when I hiked.
Special Gear: A bear canister is required. All of your food and scented items must fit inside. I utilized a sun umbrella and found it helpful on the exposed climbs. It also came in handy during the daily thunderstorms that occurred. Bring some form of rain gear, just in case. I enjoyed having water shoes for when the trail turned into a creek, or when having to cross one of the many river inlets.
Know Before You Go
Wildlife: Bears are present on the trail, so adequate park-approved storage containers are a must.
Weather: Be prepared for all weather conditions, and assume thunder and lightning storms will occur during summer afternoons.
Water Crossings: Always take the time to find appropriate crossings across creeks and rivers if there isn’t a secured bridge.
Fire Season: Be aware of fire or smoke conditions for later summer hikes.
Not for the Faint of Heart: This is not a trail I’d recommend for beginners or people uncomfortable with some wayfinding. It isn’t an easy stroll, and the trail when well maintained is steep, rugged, and difficult hiking. The less-maintained trail is steep, rugged, overgrown, eroded, or not well-marked. The parts that share popular trails are well-trafficked, creating a safety net. However, the lesser-known parts of the park you get to explore, I often saw no one, or sometimes more trail crew workers than fellow backpackers. This is probably good since in places the trail is very overgrown. I don’t want to sound discouraging for anyone who wishes to attempt the loop—it’s been one of my favorite backpacking trips to date. I just want to be transparent on what to anticipate.
Plan to Pick Up Your Permit in Person: Your online reservation is not your permit; an official permit will be issued at the time of pickup. The afternoon before, or on the start date. Most offices close by 3 p.m. If you plan to pick up from Roads End the day before your hike, account for a lot of drive time. Information regarding pickup procedures was sent to me a week or so before my start date.
Fees: Entry into national parks is $35 per car, in addition to your backcountry permit fee. Or free with an America the Beautiful Pass. Backcountry permit fees are paid at the time of reservation.
Big SEKI Loop Resources
Permits from USFS (Onion Valley)
Mt Williamson Motel and Basecamp
Eastern Sierra Transit for public transportation on the eastern side
Molly Boyer (She/They) lives and recreates most often in California. She enjoys solo backpacking, as well as showing people the joy of backpacking for the first time. When not hiking they can likely be found swimming in a mountain lake, doing aerial arts, or just cuddling with their dogs. You can follow along for future outdoor adventures and some blasts from the past on Instagram @MountainsWithMolly
