The New Hampshire Presidential Traverse is a 23-mile hike across New Hampshire’s most amazing, open terrain. It can be completed in 2-4 days.
Region: New England (White Mountain National Forest, New Hampshire)
Length: About 23 miles (2-4 days … some people do it in one day)
Physical Difficulty: Difficult
- Serious elevation gains
- Knee-pounding rock hiking
- Exposed trails above treeline subject to extreme weather
Logistical Difficulty: Moderate
- Point-to-point hike. Park a car at the northern end and one at the southern end, or park a car and shuttle to the other end
- Appalachian Mountain Club huts are the only option for camping above treeline, and they are expensive. Limited options for dropping below treeline to camp
- No resupply needed; water and snacks available at the three huts on the traverse, cafeteria on top of Mount Washington
Season: Year-round; summer is most popular
Elevation (average): ~3,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 9,000 feet
Hiking the Presidential Traverse
The views are stunning, the ascents steep, the weather wicked. So plan accordingly, and be ready for a hike that takes you across some of the most spectacular White Mountain peaks, including 6,288-foot Mount Washington.
But when you’re planning be aware that the Presidential Traverse is not one trail across some of the highest summits in the Whites; it’s the name given to a series of trails that cross the Presidential Range. And from Crawford Notch in the south to Mount Madison at the northern end of the traverse, the trails you follow are mostly part of the Appalachian Trail.
This is a point-to-point hike, so go with a friend and leave cars at each end of the traverse. Or park at one end and take the AMC shuttle to the other end.
I’m going to describe a north-to-south traverse because that’s the way I went, although I made this a loop hike by starting at Mount Clinton Road, crossing the Dry River Valley to Davis Path, hiking across the eastern shoulder of Washington, descending into the Great Gulf, and then climbing to Madison Spring Hut before starting the traverse and ending after summiting Mount Pierce. Total days: five.
BPR founder Maggie Slepian hiked a south-to-north traverse on her Appalachian Trail thru-hike, and summited Jackson and Webster as bonus peaks. Total days: 2.5.
Ascending Madison
Starting from Appalachia, Valley Way provides a 4.2-mile tree-sheltered route most of the way to Madison Spring Hut. After reaching the hut it’s a 1-mile round trip hike to the summit of Madison. If the weather’s good (and definitely avoid this route in bad weather), take the Watson Path from its junction with Valley Way to the summit of Madison (about 4 miles total from Appalachia), then .5 miles to the hut.
Another route to Madison is the AT from Pinkham Notch (the AMC shuttle stops at the Pinkham Notch Visitor Center on the AT) to the Madison summit. But at nearly 9 miles, this is a long route to the Madison summit.
Madison (5,366 feet) is a good start to the traverse, and from the summit on a clear day you’ll see the peaks that lie ahead on the way to Washington. After descending from the summit stop at the hut to refill with water and get a snack before pushing on. If you planned far enough in advance, it’s also a good place to stop for the night and fill up with food and camaraderie before setting out on the traverse the next day.
Madison to Washington
The Gulfside Trail is the main route from Madison to Washington, following the ridge of the Northern Presidentials. This is an otherworldly journey through a moon-like landscape, with moderate elevation gain and cairns marking the way. Side trails with more serious elevation gains lead to the two main summits—Adams and Jefferson—before looping back to the Gulfside Trail. The loops add little mileage to the traverse.
The loop across Adams picks up the Air Line trail north of the summit, and then follows Lowe’s Path from the summit back to Gulfside.
After summiting Adams—at 5,799 feet the second highest of the Presidentials—you’ll cross Thunderstorm Junction, the first of the so-called lawns that dot Washington’s shoulders.
If you didn’t spend the night at Madison hut, the Randolph Mountain Club’s The Perch campsite is a good spot to stop shortly after Adams. The pay-to-stay site has four tent platforms, a shelter, and a caretaker, and is a fairly easy mile from the Gulfside Trail. When I stayed there I met a couple from England who were enthralled by the Whites.
The next part of the trail leads through Edmands Col, named for J. Rayner Edmands, who built most of the Gulfside Trail and many other trails in the Whites. It’s the low point between Jefferson and Adams at 4,930 feet, and is known for high winds and bad weather. It is not a good place to try to ride out a storm.
The trail rises steeply toward Jefferson (5,716 feet), which you’ll summit by following the Mount Jefferson Loop. The loop rejoins the Gulfside Trail at Monticello Lawn (5,407 feet), before descending slightly into Sphinx Col.
The next summit is Mount Clay (5,531 feet; not a president, and not on the White Mountains 4,000-footer list), which is worth the slight climb on the Mount Clay Loop.
Back on the Gulfside Trail, the next destination is Washington, the crowning achievement of the hike. The trail climbs the rocky northern slope of Washington, with the steep walls of Great Gulf on the left and the cog railway on the right. If visibility becomes poor following the railway will lead to the summit. (A side note: Mooning the train has become a favorite pastime of hikers, especially thru-hikers. In 2007, eight people were cited for public nudity or disorderly conduct during a sting operation by undercover officers.)
The trail eventually crosses the railway tracks, and joins the Crawford Path for .2 miles to the summit of Washington.
Be prepared for a shock on the summit. It will be filled with tourists who took the railway, drove up the auto road, or took a shuttle up the road. And because so many trails converge on Washington, it will also be filled with day hikers.
But there is a silver lining: real food in the cafeteria and flush toilets in the restrooms. So enjoy the little pleasures in life, but if you’re like me you’ll spend as little time on top as possible.
Washington to Pierce
The next leg of the trip follows the Crawford Path, considered the oldest continuously maintained foot trail in the United States. The trail descends steeply along the rocky southern shoulder of Washington. Large cairns continue to mark the trail, and care should be taken during bad weather because several trails converge with Crawford Path as it leads to Lakes of the Clouds Hut (5,050 feet). In poor weather the hut can be a temporary shelter, and a refuge room provides overnight shelter for hikers caught in extreme conditions.
From Washington to Eisenhower, the trail alternates between crossing open rocks and threading through scrub. The views from the summits are extraordinary.
The trail ascends again after the hut, bypassing Mount Monroe (5,372 feet). The Mount Monroe Loop leads over the summit, and rejoins the Crawford Path on the southern side of the summit. In between the two trails is an area closed off to protect the fragile alpine vegetation.
The trail continues along a mostly flat area before crossing Mount Franklin (5,001 feet, not a president, and not on the 4,000-footer list). After a steep descent the trail again follows a mostly flat path before the junction with the Mount Eisenhower Loop. Eisenhower (4,760 feet) is a popular destination for day hikers and you’ll probably have company at the top.
Just before Mount Pierce (4,312 feet), at the junction with the Webster Cliff Trail, the Crawford Path veers right toward the Mount Clinton Road parking area. The Presidential Traverse continues on the Webster Cliff Trail, which ascends Pierce. Mizpah Spring Hut and Nauman Tentsite are about a mile farther on the Webster Cliff Trail.
What’s Next?
After climbing Pierce, should you return to your car (assuming you parked it on Mount Clinton Road) via the Mizpah Cutoff, Crawford Path, and Crawford Connector, all very easy trails? Some consider the Presidential Traverse to be over after climbing Pierce because it’s the last of the summits on this route named for a president.
Or should you continue on the Webster Cliff Trail (still the AT) over Mount Jackson and Mount Webster to Route 302? Neither mountain is named for a president, but they are part of the Presidential Range. Charles Thomas Jackson was a New Hampshire state geologist, Daniel Webster a New Hampshire native son and famed orator, but unsuccessful presidential candidate, so skipping them won’t invalidate your Presidential Traverse. But this route still has a recognized 4,000-footer (Jackson, 4,052 feet) and an almost 4,000-footer (Webster, 3,910 feet). So maybe you want to bag another peak on the list of 48 4,000-footers, and decide to hike on.
Webster Cliff Trail to Route 302
Continuing on Webster Cliff Trail is a 6.4-mile knee-jarring descent over roots and rocks with views ahead of you to Crawford Notch and behind you to Washington and Montalban Ridge. The trail reaches Route 302 several miles from the Mount Clinton Road parking area, but the AMC shuttle stops at the trailhead. If you choose this path you could take the shuttle back to the Highland Center, where your car will be about a 1-mile walk away.
How to Get to the Presidential Traverse
Nearest Cities: Conway, New Hampshire; Gorham, New Hampshire
Northern Access: Valley Way, the most popular access to the Presidential Traverse, starts on Route 2 at Appalachia in Jefferson, five miles west of the intersection of Routes 2 and 16 in Gorham. The parking lot often fills up, and cars spill over onto the shoulder of Route 2, so an early arrival is a good idea. Car break-ins can be a sporadic problem. The trailhead is a stop for the Appalachian Mountain Club shuttle.
Southern Access: The AMC’s Highland Center is at the southern end of the traverse on Route 302, and is also a stop on the AMC’s shuttle route. Parking at the center is designated for overnight guests.
If you’re starting at the southern end of the traverse you can park at the Mount Clinton Road parking area, follow the Crawford Connector to the Crawford Path, and then the Crawford Path south to the Highland Center, where you can get the shuttle to Appalachia and Valley Way. The total walk is less than a mile, and after you’ve finished the traverse your car is waiting at the end of the trail.
A White Mountain National Forest parking permit is required for parking on Mount Clinton Road.
Reservations for the shuttle are advised, and there is a fee. Call 603-466-2727 for shuttle information. Walk-ons accepted if space is available.
Concord Coach Lines buses run from Boston, Massachusetts, to Gorham. The AMC shuttle and bus both stop at the Irving Oil/Circle K at 350 Main St. in Gorham.
When to Hike the Presidential Traverse
Spring: Snow is always possible, and weather can range from unusually warm to bone-chilling cold rain. The huts don’t open until mid-June. But the spring wildflower bloom in the alpine meadows in mid-June is beautiful.
Summer: Even the high peaks aren’t immune to New England’s hot, humid summer days. And be aware that you may set out on a sunny day in the valley but the peaks can be covered by clouds, so always carry warm clothes and rain gear. Overall, summer is a safe bet for hiking the traverse.
Fall: I’ve had my best weather in the Presidentials in September, but good weather is never a given. On my traverse after Columbus Day, I bailed after Pierce because of a coming storm that dropped six inches of snow.
Winter: Private guided trips are available for a winter traverse. It’s possible to do it on your own, but above-treeline winter hiking experience is a must.
Sample Itineraries
One-Day Traverse: Yes, people do it in one day. The summer solstice is a popular time for this hike because of the long daylight hours.
Two-Day Traverse: Valley Way to The Perch campsite, The Perch to the Mount Clinton Road parking area.
Three-Day Traverse: Valley Way to The Perch, The Perch to Nauman Tentsite, back to your car. You could also do a hut-to-hut: Valley Way to Madison Spring, Madison Spring to Lakes of the Clouds or Mizpah Springs, back to your car.
Presidential Traverse Terrain
The trails to the summits are typical White Mountain fare: rocky, rooty, steep, and sometimes more of a stream than a trail. But once on the ridgeline the hiking is moderately flat, with short but steep climbs to the summits. The higher trails above treeline are greatly exposed to severe weather, and care should always be taken to be prepared for rapidly changing conditions.
Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water
Permits: None needed to hike the Presidential Traverse. A parking permit is needed to park on Mount Clinton Road, and is available from the White Mountain National Forest and private vendors. If you have a national parks pass, leave that on the dashboard of your car or hang it from your rearview mirror.
Camping: Madison Spring and Lakes of the Clouds huts are the only available overnight spots above treeline. Mizpah Spring Hut and Nauman Tentsite at the southern end of the traverse offer overnight lodging and camping, for a fee. A night at a hut, with dinner and breakfast, costs more than $100, and advance reservations are advisable. AMC members get a discount.
The Randolph Mountain Club has a hut and camping areas below treeline, but some require a long hike off the traverse. The Perch, with a shelter and four tent platforms, is about a mile off the traverse and could be a good stop for your first day. Fees are charged for camping.
No camping is allowing above treeline, except in winter.
Water: Available at Madison, Lakes, and Mizpah huts, on the summit of Mount Washington, at springs above treeline, and at streams below treeline.
Know Before You Go
Weather: The bulk of the traverse is above treeline and is known for sudden and drastic weather changes. Mount Washington is home to some of the most extreme weather in the world, so be prepared for storms that move in quickly, and have escape routes planned.
The AMC Huts: The huts are a popular way to visit the White Mountain high summits. Upside: Mingle with other hikers, nightly entertainment from the croo (hut staff), bedding, and breakfast and supper, so you don’t have to carry a tent, sleeping bag, and days of food. (Although an emergency shelter can be considered a must on these trails.) A limited number of work-for-stays at the huts are available to AT thru-hikers on a first-come, first-served basis. I did a work-for-stay during the offseason when it was only me and a half-dozen other paying hikers at the hut. Downside: Expensive, and you need to make reservations months in advance.
Mount Washington: More than a quarter-million people visit the summit annually, driving on the Mount Washington Auto Road, riding on the Mount Washington Cog Railway, taking a guided van or snow coach, or hiking to the top. The Sherman Adams Visitor Center—part of Mount Washington State Park—at the top has a cafeteria, a gift shop, and restrooms. Expect crowds on the summit. The Mount Washington Observatory is staffed year-round, providing summit weather forecasts and researching climate change.
Escape Routes: Be prepared for bad weather to move in, and plan accordingly. The descent from above treeline into the Great Gulf and Oakes Gulf is very steep and not the best option. The Israel Ridge Trail provides a quick descent below treeline to the RMC’s Perch shelter and tent platforms. Another option is the Ammonoosuc Ravine Trail, which descends very steeply from Lakes of the Clouds Hut but provides a quick route to shelter in the trees. The trailhead on Base Station Road is a stop for the AMC shuttle.
Hike Safe: New Hampshire’s Hike Safe Card exempts hikers from liability for costs if they need to be rescued, with some exceptions. The card costs $25 for individuals, $35 for a family, and is good from the date of purchase until Dec. 31 of the same year.
Resources
White Mountain National Forest
FarOut Guides White Mountains National Forest
