The Ozark Highlands Trail is a 254-mile point-to-point backpacking route in Arkansas. It is a blazed trail through the northern part of the state with multiple stream crossings. A full thru-hike is considered to be 165 miles, with 254 miles being the full proposed (and possible) route.

Region: Middle South (Arkansas)
Length: 165 – 254 miles (10-18 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• Creek and river crossings ebb and flow with the weather
• The trail is moderately graded
• The climbs and descents are short

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• No permits needed
• Both termini are hard to access
• Resupplies can be tough

Season: Fall, Winter, Spring

Hiking the Ozark Highlands Trail

The Ozark Highlands Trail is a route through northern Arkansas that follows the spine of the Ozark Mountains from east to west.

The trail is white-blazed along most of its route and is fairly straightforward to follow. There is also a FarOut guide. Compared with the Ouachita Trail, there are not as many signs or markers, but for the first chunk, every mile is signed.

The trees are deciduous with small groups of pine and the weather is temperate and mild. On my thru-hike I saw deer, elk, and porcupine. Locals also spoke of small black bears in the Ozarks. It is a peaceful environment that is far removed from any towns. This also makes the resupply strategy more difficult than comparable trails.

One big factor on the Ozark Highlands Trail is the water. There are numerous crossings every day, an abundance of waterfalls, and little need to have more than a 2-liter capacity. I thru-hiked this trail in February, which is one of the wetter times of the year, but water seems to flow year-round based on many of the online comments and water sources on maps.

The Ozark Highlands Trail is not finished, and there are two distinct sections with the opportunity to connect them as I did. The first 165 miles to the Buffalo River at Woolum are largely considered an entire thru-hike, but there is a decent section for 40 more miles to Dillards Ferry at Highway 14 that I was able to easily complete. From there, it was a 20-mile slog of bushwhacking, looking for a trail, and following gravel roads to get to the Sylamore section of the trail. The east end of the trail was beautiful and my 254-mile route ended at Matney Knob Trailhead.

How to Get to the Ozark Highlands Trail

Western Terminus: Fort Smith State Park, Arkansas
Closest City: Fort Smith (1 hour)

Eastern Terminus: Matney Knob Trailhead, Arkansas, or Woolum Campground, Arkansas
Closest City: Mountain Home, Arkansas (20 minutes)

I hiked this trail eastbound and was able to get a ride to the trailhead from a friend, but there is a very active Facebook group and numerous resources for getting to the trail on the Ozark Highlands Trail Association website.

Ozark Highlands Trail Western Terminus

From Fort Smith, Arkansas, it’s a 40-minute drive to Lake Fort Smith State Park

Ozark Highlands Trail Eastern Terminus

The trail ends abruptly at either Woolum or Matney Knob Trailhead (depending on where you conclude your thru-hike). Mountain Home is the largest city of any kind, but transportation can be tricky. I was able to hitch across the state to Fayetteville but there are also some bus options and the opportunity to rent a car to get to a major city. I found hitching to be fairly simple in Arkansas.

When to Hike the Ozark Highlands Trail / Which Direction

The Ozark Highlands Trail fits snuggly into the shoulder seasons when the weather is tamer in Arkansas and without the sticky heat and humidity that the region experiences during the summer. A generally equal split hike the trail in the early spring and the fall, with the season lasting a few months twice a year.

The trail can be hiked year-round, but a number of factors ranging from bugs to floods to cold weather make the February to April and October to November timeframes the most popular. In late February it snowed on me and the rivers were swollen after a rainstorm. The weather can be inclement, and despite the lack of true elevation the terrain can be rugged.

Most thru-hikers start at Lake Fort Smith State Park and travel eastbound because it is fairly easy to get a ride to and makes the logistics work a little better. The two possible termini on the east side are both remote and difficult.

Ozark Highlands Trail Terrain

The Ozark Highlands Trail is very much under the canopy of deciduous trees, but there are a number of views as the oscillating elevation brings you up and down numerous mountains. The trail is rocky with mud, waterfalls, and numerous stream crossings. Compared with the drier Ouachita Trail to the south, the Ozark Highlands Trail has a lot more dependable water.

Ozark Highlands Trail Resupply

Resupply can be complicated on the OHT. There are no major towns nearby, and the roads cutting through the mountains are lightly traveled. But with a couple of longer carries the trail can be thru-hiked without going hungry.

Resupply 1, Ozone, Arkansas
Mile 68

A tiny Burger Barn that accepts thru-hiker packages is only 2 miles off the trail. The other option at this crossing of Highway 21 is Clarksville. If you can manage the long carry from here to Woolum, the simplest way to thru-hike the Ozark Highlands Trail is to only resupply at this location.

Resupply 2, Highway 65
Mile 205

If you are hiking the full (proposed) length of the trail, Highway 65 is well-traveled and can provide access to a Dollar General in St. Joe. It is a fairly easy hitch and is the only real relevant resupply option for the second half of the lesser-traveled section of the trail.

Logistics: Camping and Water

Camping: Camping is dispersed and plentiful on the OHT. There are a number of flat spots, and FarOut has a number of waypoints marked as potential spots to set up a tent.

Water: There is so much water on the Ozark Highlands Trail that flooding can be an issue. Especially in the Hurricane Creek section, the water crossings can swell substantially when it rains. Keep an eye on the weather and the current levels of the rivers and creeks.

Ozark Highlands Trail: Know Before You Go

Weather: Shoulder season hiking comes with variable weather. I experienced rain, snow, and sunshine in late February. The weather was in the 70s one day and dipped below 20 the next. Packing the gear to weather any potential conditions is highly recommended.

Ozark Highlands Trail Resources

Ozark Highlands Trail Association

Ozark Highlands Trail Guide – Book

Ozark Highland Trail Facebook

The post Ozark Highlands Trail appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

I caught up with Mr. Buddha for an interview:

When did you start thru-hiking and why?

My first thru-hike was the John Muir Trail, late summer of 1995. I had just finished a summer job at a summer camp in Colorado, and still had several weeks before college fall semester. I decided to hitchhike from Estes Park, Colorado, to Yosemite Valley, California. It took three days to bum three rides out to California. In my early teenage years, I picked up a couple of books that introduced me to the vagabond lifestyle. “A Thousand-Mile Walk to the Gulf” by John Muir and “On the Road” by Jack Kerouac are fundamental inspiration points in my early life. I also read “The PCT Hikers Handbook” by Ray Jardine prior to hiking the JMT.

What brought you back to the CDT this year?

The CDT is one of my favorite long-distance thru-hikes in North America. I’ve been fortunate to hike it thrice now. Because of my repeat offender status, I was eager to take alternate routes off the CDT.

You did it a little differently this time. What alternatives did you take?

My route in 2021 had me trekking across Teton Crest, Gros Ventre Wilderness, part of the High Route across Wind River Range, Red Canyon near Lander, Wyoming, Killpecker Sand Dunes in Western Great Divide Basin, Red Desert on the Wyoming-Colorado border, Flat Top Wilderness, and finally Four Pass Loop before reconnecting to the CDT near Twin Lakes.  I also hiked Nolan’s 14 High Route in Colorado, which connects 14 14,000-foot mountains in Colorado’s Sawatch Range. To date, Nolan’s 14 is one of my top five favorite North America high routes. 

“Nolan’s 14 is one of my top five favorite North America high routes.”

Lil Buddha

What is your best wildlife interaction story?

On the Great Divide Trail, I inadvertently got in between two very large male grizzly bears fighting. The fight happened so quickly that I had no time to react or get out of the way. At one point they were less than 10 feet away from me. Luckily, the bruins were engrossed in warfare and didn’t even acknowledge my presence. That night I hung my food a half mile from my campsite. I slept maybe two hours. 

How does it feel to win Outsider of the Year? Do you get recognized on the street? 

It means more: Earthlings get to read horrendous haikus about walking in nature—Lil’ Buddha, moi, señor Kiatoukaysy, haiku masta, Father Haus Buddha aka “Outsidiest Outsiders of the Year”

What would you like this younger generation of thru-hikers to know? What should we all be more mindful of out on the trails?

I’ll quote my trail dad Dharma here: “Don’t kid yourself—you’re just another fool stumbling around out in the woods.” I think that’s the best advice I’ve ever received or could pass on.

“Don’t kid yourself—you’re just another fool stumbling around out in the woods”

Dharma

What is next?

Hayduke Trail, spring of 2022! 

The post Lil Buddha, an Outsider of the Year appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

Was I a little ambitious on jumping right in with a tarp shelter? Maybe, but I would never admit that.

I had one sewing project to my name but I was ready to add a second. Simply because tigers are cool, I cut off the sleeves on a tiger face sweatshirt and hemmed them before setting the Long Trail FKT. The garment held up and I still use it to this day. That sweatshirt has more miles on it than any pair of shoes I have ever had. But taking on a DIY shelter project proved to be right about the limit of my capabilities. I have always wanted to learn to sew more than just the hem on a sweatshirt, and this was finally my chance. I chose to go with a winter tarp simply because it would be a larger shelter than tarps I have previously used, and it turned out to be lighter as well.

The package came from Ripstop by the Roll and I was immediately overwhelmed. How would I turn this folded-up piece of material into a functioning tarp? I didn’t even know how to read the stitch types on the instructions. But, after consulting my aunt and breaking down the process into manageable steps, I was ready to dive right in. Measure once and cut twice … or something like that.

The most difficult part of the process came at the beginning when the cutting occurred. The nervousness of cutting a hole right down the middle of the shelter overwhelmed every action. It reminded me of when van life friends talked about punching holes in the metal for windows. Same concept but a different shelter. Even with measuring numerous times, I still managed to make some errant snips that were modified with some small alterations to the template to make it all work together. Once I had the tarp laid out, trimmed, and ready for the real sewing it all made sense.

The process quickly fell into place and became more of a battle to position such a large piece of Dyneema around the sewing machine. I was a natural … not fast … but I quickly grasped the stitches, concepts, and reasoning behind the construction of the tarp. I was off to the races. A lot of learning was involved. The instructions looked so foreign at the start, but page by page I slowly figured out how to read the new language of DIY.

The curved edges on the bottom (called cat curves) proved to be the most difficult to correctly draw and cut but also turned out to be less important to get perfectly than the effort I put into them. In fact, each careful measurement seemed to work no matter if I was a few millimeters off. It was a good lesson in following the instructions, but also continuing to progress through them instead of painstakingly fretting over lines and curves that were fractions off, only to be hemmed later.

I sewed the whole thing together. It was trial by fire on the sewing machine. The pedal was a lot touchier than I expected and the fabric nearly flew off the table. The smooth silky, slick fabric also made it tough to hem all of the edges as I worked around the outside of the tarp. A few missed stitches occurred and I simply pulled them out and redid them.

Finally, the tarp looked like a shelter. It was the right shape and the edges were hemmed and sturdy. All that was left were the attachments and guylines. My patience with measuring was about gone, so I used a series of folds to mark the right spots for the floating guylines. After making it this far over multiple hours, I simply marked my attachments and kept going. The corners were simple and signified the final steps of the construction process. I just hoped it would work!

“I had a tarp, it looked correct, but the only way I would know is by testing it against the elements.”

In the middle of a Pacific Northwest rainstorm, I took my new shelter out into the yard and began setting it up. It was pouring. My clothes were soaking wet before I had the first guyline adjusted to the right length. But I was committed. A few minutes later the tarp was standing and a few small adjustments away from crawling inside. I fully expected the roof to leak, or some unforeseen issue with it when I crawled inside, but I was dry! The DIY project actually worked and I had a new enclosed shelter with more area than my comparable, heavier shelters. The project took longer than I thought, but it was a success.

Recommendations

—I would order the precut versions of the shelter or DIY project you are looking to make. The cutting took a lot longer than I expected and having it done by someone with experience and a large space would make it easier.

—Don’t fret about the small measurements. I didn’t realize that the hemming process would negate the fractions of inches that I was trying to adhere to on curves.

—Adjust the guylines when you have the shelter actually set up. It was hard to guess where and how to attach the guylines to the shelter until I had it set up in the backyard.

The post My Experience with DIY Gear Making appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

What is the North Country Trail and why did you choose to hike it?

The North Country Trail is the nation’s longest National Scenic Trail spanning ~4,833 miles. It traverses the country from Vermont, at the junction of the Appalachian Trail and Long Trail, all the way out to the middle of North Dakota. Continuity growing, changing, adapting, and evolving, sooner or later we have very little doubt that it will surpass 5,000 miles as the trail association and chapters try to move more and more miles off the road. I would say right now where it currently stands, it is about 70-75% single track and two-track trail with the remainder 25% connecting road walks, which honestly for a trail this long and how many land managements they have to get permission from, public, private, government, it is already an impressive ratio. 

Whew, why did I choose to hike it? That is a complicated question, in all honesty, it did not necessarily feel like I “chose” to hike it but more so it was chosen for me. Don’t get me wrong, it is always a personal choice, but with the way I have been hiking and for the past few years wanting to explore and experience every National Scenic Trail, this was the last big behemoth to tackle and I was ready to give it a shot. Also, I love these “lesser-known” trails. Even though the NCT is an NST (say that 10 times fast) it is heavily underrepresented in the hiking community, specifically the thru-hiking community, due to its sheer size. Being one of the few who chose to tackle it lets you interact and educate in a way that popular trails do not. Sending positive ripples for the next hiker, thru-hiker, or whoever follows always feels like a privilege and responsibility to me, and it is beautiful to see. 

How long did the NCT take?

The NCT took ~187 days. To be exact 186 days, 9 hours, 38 minutes, and 21 seconds. My partner and I were actually registered for an FKT, solely because it was wonderfully ironic to us that we could set a “speed record” that would take close to half a year. We originally wanted to complete this hike in 130-150 days, but the trail was longer than advertised, clocking in at 4,833.4 miles instead of the pre-planned 4,600, as well as the sheer size took more mental exhaustion out of us than could be foreseen. 

Did you have any crazy weather or wildlife encounters?

Surprisingly enough, we only saw one bear the entirety of the hike. As far as crazy wildlife, again not so much. An injured vulture almost fell on Magpie’s head once, we rescued a cat from a flooded cornfield, we called the sheriff in North Dakota at night to pick up two friendly dogs that had followed us for 10+ miles as the temperature began to drop into the 20s. We had the usual nocturnal visitors in camp, mostly rodents but occasionally some bold raccoons. Magpie also got too close to an aggressive llama and nearly got kicked, although this was her own fault (llamas are cute!). Believe it or not our most crazy or “scary” wildlife encounters were with loose dogs through some of the communities we walked through. This trail was the first time I have ever had someone premeditatively release their aggressive dog on me. Many, many times on this trail and others, we have walked by aggressive dogs that were just loose by coincidence, but this “gentleman” was the first premeditated siccing of the dogs.

As far as crazy weather, we could not have been luckier. Yes, we had some heavy thunderstorms in the plains, and some deep bone-chilling cold out in North Dakota in late October/early November, but for the most part we got extremely lucky. If you call heat waves of 100+ degrees with extreme humidity in southern Ohio lucky, and if you call a freak snowstorm on May 1 (our first day of our hike in the Green Mountains) lucky, and if you call wind that can drive you mad lucky, and honestly we do call this all lucky. It was the “standard” mixture of weather that you will get on most any long-distance hike, and when I say standard I mean far from it, just a grab bag of all the “fun” you experience when walking through multiple seasons and multiple states. 

Big three for the NCT hike?

Backpack: Constantine: Hyperlite Windrider 3400, Magpie: ULA Ohm 2.0 

Tent: Big Agnes Tiger Wall UL2

Sleeping Bag: Zpacks TwinQuilt 20 degree

Magpie has an exhaustive gear list on her blog, shinyobjects.substack.com, if people are curious to learn more. 

What are your trail names and where did they come from?

My trail name is Constantine, and it came from my Appalachian Trail thru-hike in 2016, my first hike. I was walking with a friend one day and I already had a trail name but he said it didn’t fit and was too much of a mouthful, then he had an AH-HA moment and asked if I had seen the movie “Constantine.” Which I had not. He then proceeded to describe the character, who was half good and half bad, and at this point in my hiking career I was all upper body and no lower body, so every climb in Georgia I cussed everything I could find, and every downhill I praised everything holy. So, half good and half bad. (Funny enough it’s now the opposite; I love climbs, and my knees scream on descents.)

As for me, Magpie, I got my trail name a few weeks into my first thru-hike on the Continental Divide Trail (I know! Why did I start with that one? Because I didn’t know if I would be able to thru-hike again and I wanted to do the hardest one first, just to prove I could). Going southbound on the CDT, the first two resupply stops are in national park campgrounds, and at least when I was there, they were in a state of moderate disrepair. While doing sink laundry in Two Medicine, first the cold-water tap came off in my hand, and then a soap holder fell off the wall when I draped a sock over it, and finally, the towel bar came down when I removed my clothes, causing me to almost stuff it in my pack. I made a joke about collecting “shiny objects” and was thus christened Magpie. It didn’t hurt that I have a habit of picking up shiny micro-trash, wear a lot of jewelry, and that my hair at the time was dyed turquoise, like a magpie’s wing. 

What does ElevenSkys mean?

ElevenSkys name was inspired by the trails that I have walked and was planning to walk. There are 11 National Scenic Trails in the United States, and as I was brainstorming a business name, of course, I began to take inspiration from the very trails that I found happiness and joy in the first place. Hence the name, ElevenSkys, for the nation’s 11 National Scenic Trails. Each sky that you walk under on each trail is the same, but completely different. We can avoid going into the deep philosophical here, but it’s meant to represent that each journey is different. Mentally, physically, emotionally, it all depends on how you chose to experience it, and each sky we have experienced has been the “same” while representing a world of difference. 

“ElevenSkys, for the nation’s 11 National Scenic Trails. Each sky you walk under on each trail is the same, but completely different.”

Constantine, Founder of ElevenSkys Gear Company

Why did you decide to start Eleven Skys?

I started ElevenSkys for multiple reasons. The first being that as 2018 was drawing to a close, and I was finishing my Triple Crown on the Continental Divide Trail, I knew that was never the extent of what I sought. I was not out there to just hike those three trails, I wanted to continue to hike, experience, and live this life to the fullest. I had a phrase that there was “on trail Constantine” and “off-trail work Ryan” and while I loved both, it felt too disconnected. I wanted to merge these two halves of my life and an opportunity kind of fell into my lap. Subsequently, in 2019, I began using a pair of shorts that did not break, tear, rip for over 3,500+ miles. Compared to my prior years of replacing shorts constantly on my thru-hikes, this was a game-changer, and a niche in the hiking world I did not see being filled. I wanted to provide others with the simplicity and practicality of a pair of shorts or pants that would last them their entire adventure without any worries, and I had found them, so I began building the company to distribute them more widely. 

“In 2019, I began using a pair of shorts that did not break, tear, rip for over 3,500+ miles. Compared to my prior years of replacing shorts constantly on my thru-hikes, this was a game changer, and a niche in the hiking world I did not see being filled.”

Constantine on why he started ElevenSkys

How do you run a company and hike 30 miles a day?

Hahaha, honest answer? Extremely stressfully. I built this company so I could spend more time on trail, but the context of the time spent on trail has now changed. When we are on a road walk, or easy two-track, instead of just relaxing and sitting back into a pace, if there is cell signal I have to be on the phone constantly. Calls, emails, creation, running a small business is constant work. You never get your entire list complete, because it only ever continues to grow. All you can do is manage time, manage importance, and stressfully try to multitask constantly. When we would get into town for resupply and “rest” after a long and hard section, I had to constantly be on. As soon as we would arrive, even before I took a shower, I would have to make sure I could combine that time with uploading content, sending out scheduled emails, and coordinating shipping. I could take a shower only after I knew I was multitasking. Then after I was clean, when other hikers could rest or recharge, I was glued to my phone. There was never enough time in the day to complete all the tasks I wished, and hence the vicious cycle would begin. Feeling behind, stressing, and multitasking with any available time I had hiking or in town, and then still feeling behind, the circle continued. So, to answer that question is to say I guess, as best as you can. 

Tell me about registering a hike or announcement to complete the 11 National Scenic Trails.

We are really excited about this! So, registering your announcement or completion of the 11 National Scenic Trails is official on ElevenSkys, the only official place to register. Again, we felt there was an underrepresentation of these stats or people who have completed or are currently going after this goal. As Triple Crowners become more “regular” and the hiking world continues to grow, we are starting to see this goal become more common, simply out of the fact it is kind of the natural progression to hike. We want to spotlight and connect all these like-minded individuals because even though we say it’s becoming “regular” it is still somewhat rare. By connecting these people together we hope to make it a little easier and more exciting than it was for us. When we had to plan some of these lesser-known National Scenic Trails, we knew for a fact we would see no other hikers, but hopefully, if people can see there are others, and choose to connect on some of these trails, it could make a community where it once was lacking. It really is special in so many ways to experience all these trails and we hope to shine the spotlight on others that continue to go out there and live their life to the fullest. 

What is next?

Whew, another tough question. For the immediate future we are in the “off-season” working … again stressfully, to try and put everything in motion and enough structure to be able to hike again next year. We just released a new podcast called “Off Trail” where we hope to spotlight how and why hikers do what they do, with some amazing guests already we are really excited about that. Then for ElevenSkys, this year will be a big change as we begin to partner with other companies to bring our products to a wider audience. So the immediate future, as it always is in the offseason, is work, work, work and more work. 

If you are asking specifically what is next for us, the hikers. Well, that is also something we are extremely excited for. Starting around March or April, we have been fantasizing about interaction again with the broader hiking community. This year was very solitary and we did not get to interact much with other thru-hikers physically, so we hope to begin a road trip in those first few months of spring and summer, following the hiker bubbles on the PCT, CDT, and AZT to give back and give trail magic. We want to give back to a community that has given us so much. Then, along the way, we plan to string together those beautiful smaller trails out West that are anywhere from 100-500 miles long, while we travel from place to place to provide trail magic. We’ve been calling it our “grab-bag year,” putting together all the interesting side-hikes and peakbagging that you don’t have time to explore while you’re thru-hiking a larger trail. Hopefully, the year will culminate in November 2022 with a Te Arora hike in New Zealand. Fingers crossed as their borders are still not open, but we can hope can’t we?

The post Interview with Two North Country Trail Thru-Hikers appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

Salomon Sense Pro – Great for Capacity

MSRP: $100
Weight: 8 ounces
Pack Capacity: 8 liters
Exterior Pockets: 5

The Salomon Sense Pro vest carries any amount of weight seamlessly. With the elastic, all-encompassing back pocket, the pack compresses to your body no matter how full it is. In hotter weather, I have found this to be a bit constricting and warmer than the Ultimate Direction Vest, but the ease of carrying items is the major tradeoff. There is no bounce and the front flask pockets rival any others on the market. The pack’s many pockets make organizing easy and I often go with this pack for races, simply because I can have my nutrition in one location, garbage in another, and headlamp in another.

Buy at REI

The North FaceFlight Race Day Vest – Built for Speed

MSRP: $149
Weight: 5 ounces
Pack Capacity: 8 liters
Exterior Pockets: 5

The North FaceFlight Race Day Vest fits somewhere between the Salomon Sense Pro line and the Osprey line. Simplicity is the major differentiator, which comes at the price of versatility. It wears really well and holds items close to the body with very little bounce, even on fast and uneven terrain. But the pack does not work well with a back reservoir, and I found the flask pockets and shoulder straps in general to rest wider on my chest than I was comfortable with. It is a great pack for shorter hikes and something to keep primed for an after-work excursion, but I would look elsewhere for longer adventures.

Buy at Backcountry

Ultimate Direction Adventure Vest – Versatile

MSRP: $180
Weight: 11 ounces
Pack Capacity: 17 liters
Exterior Pockets: 11

The Ultimate Direction Adventure Vest has been my go-to for years with its versatility and ease in carrying both larger and smaller loads. The easy-to-reach pockets and the breathability make it perfect for all seasons, especially for living in Montana. The downside to the pack is that the front flask pocket feels floppy, and including a “Burrito” pocket as opposed to a second flask pocket feels unnecessary and I end up using it for a second bottle. I keep this pack in my car because it is versatile for any spur-of-the-moment run or hike that I find myself going on.

Buy at REI

Nathan Pinnacle 12 Hydration Vest – Hike / Run

MSRP: $200
Weight: 11 ounces
Pack Capacity: 12 liters
Exterior Pockets: 8

Maggie has used a Nathan pack for the past two years and here are her thoughts: The 12-liter capacity is deceptive—it feels similar to the minimalist vests in weight and fit, though the main pocket has enough stretch and room to pack snacks and layers. There are plenty of easy-access pockets across the vest portion, while the main back pocket can be reached when you take the pack off. I love the long zippered pockets along with the shoulder straps, and the food-stash pockets under the arms. I prefer this pack with soft flasks in the front shoulder pockets, as it can feel bouncy running with a hydration bladder, and the magnet system for the hose isn’t very secure. I wear the women’s model, which has narrower shoulder straps and is comfortable to secure around my chest.

Buy at REI

Osprey Trail Running Vest – Best First Trail Pack

MSRP: $140
Weight: 17 ounces
Pack Capacity: 15 liters
Exterior Pockets: 9

Osprey makes great trail running vests for those just getting into trail running, or more leaning on the packs for longer day hikes. They are simple and not overengineered like some of the more specialized packs on the list. It is never a hunt to find a missing item with limited pockets. This would be my top recommendation for beginners just getting into trail running packs.

Buy at REI

The post Trail Running Vests for Day Hiking, a Review appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

Region: Southwest (Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Utah)

Distance: 15 miles (2 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Lightly defined trail can be hard to follow
• Difficult descent to Escalante River
• Slickrock can be tough to navigate

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Water roughly halfway
• Point-to-point route
• Great camping options

Season: Spring / Fall

Elevation Gain: 3,000 feet

Max Elevation: 6,805 feet

Hiking The Boulder Mail Trail

The Boulder Mail Trail is a historic route rooted in delivering the mail across the unforgiving terrain of southern Utah. An old telegraph line still runs most of the way from Boulder to Escalante and the Boulder Mail Trail parallels its path. The point-to-point hike is one of the most diverse in the area, while also being extremely accessible. The slickrock, striking canyons, and high plateaus that make up Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument are all present on this 15-mile route.

This backpacking route is comprised of three different segments. The northeast third of the trail is on a high plateau and undulating terrain that is smooth but can get muddy after snow or rain. It is a slow descent from 6,800 feet to the edge of Death Hollow Canyon and the start of the second segment. This first third has the smoothest, most well-defined, and easiest miles of the route. It is a warmup for a tough descent into one of the most unique canyons I have ever hiked through.

The second segment of the Boulder Mail Trail is the canyon. This is the highlight of the trip but also the most difficult. The route down is precarious and steep. Cairns mark the route, but it is still difficult to wind down the slickrock and to the creek below. It is a slow drop to the bottom and accentuated by a refreshing crossing of the cold, deep creek. This is the best camping and water for the route, so I recommend filling up in Death Hollow Creek and even camping there. The route follows the creek for a few miles and joins a part of the Death Hollow Loop when it finally climbs out of the deep canyon. This turn can be hard to find, so be cognizant and I recommend having a GPS track to ensure you climb out at the right spot. The climb out of the canyon is very similar to the drop into it. The slickrock has no trail and the elevation gain can be punishing. Follow the cairns.

Segment three begins with a long climb out of the canyon and crosses the signature expansive terrain of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. The route can be hard to follow at times, marked only by small cairns, and the surface ranges from soft sand to hard rock. But it is beautiful. The escape into nature is obvious and this lesser-traveled route offers ample spots to dry camp or simply take in the surrounding views in this third segment.

The 15-mile route ends with a climb over one last ridgeline and a drop to the outskirts of Escalante, Utah. The southwest corner is also the only place that backpackers should expect any cell service, and even here I found it faint. This route is about getting into the heart of Grand Staircase-Escalante; you can show everyone on social media later!

When to Hike The Boulder Mail Trail

The Boulder Mail Trail is best hiked in the spring and the fall, although I was able to travel the entire route in February. There was snow in February and the creek was especially cold, but there was a special kind of beauty with the surrounding mountains cloaked in white. Summer can be very hot on the exposed rock sections, but it is also doable with the right water capacity, knowledge, and preparation. I recommend hiking it in the shoulder seasons.

It is a point-to-point trail, so sorting out the logistics on how to get back to the car at one end is something to consider. Luckily the road from one trailhead to the other is straightforward and most cars will be traveling all the way through if hitching is a consideration. Also, I have done this trail as an out and back for 30 miles of enjoyment and also ended up back at my vehicle.

Boulder Mail Trail Terrain

The terrain is classic high desert. There are open, exposed bedrock (slickrock) sections, small shrubs, plants with stickers, and sand. It is a classic Utah route and has all the characteristics of many of the similar routes in the dry, arid state. I consumed more water than I expected and it is likely due to the subtle accumulation of elevation and the lack of moisture in the air.

Your feet will get wet. There really is no way to avoid having to wade through the deep, soft, flowing waters of Death Hollow Creek. It is not a scary crossing, but a mid-thigh saunter through the water. If backpacking, this is the perfect opportunity to bring camp shoes or Crocs and save your shoes and socks from getting soaked through.

Logistics: Direction, Land Management, Water

Land Management: This trail is in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, which means the regulations are much more lax than a national park. There is a ranger station in Escalante, Utah, where a free permit can be obtained. If the ranger station is closed, each trailhead has a register to simply mark when you start and when you will be finished.

Water: The only water on the Boulder Mail Trail is Death Hollow Creek. You cannot miss it as you will have to wade through the water, but I would recommend camping here and also topping off your water before the long climb out of the canyon.

Remoteness: There is very little connectivity on the Boulder Mail Trail. The only semblance of cell service that I had was the last couple of miles when I was exiting on the Escalante side. Be prepared to be fully contained and self-sufficient on your hike.

Permits: There are walk-up permits at the Escalante ranger station.

Poison Ivy: The route is known to have some poison ivy on the Death Hollow Creek portion. I have not had an issue with it, but former hiking partners have.

Additional Resources

Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument

NPS Escalante Website

The post Boulder Mail Trail appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

A Hoodie or Fleece

Hoodies and fleece have exploded in popularity recently. A number of small companies make their own, and different fabrics and wool have taken off in popularity. These are also hard to find, have a long lead time, and can be expensive, so if you can get your hands on a hoodie or fleece for a hiker, they will love it!

Instant Coffee

Gone are the days of gross coffee that is so acidic it feels like the enamel has melted off your teeth; the days of gourmet instant coffee have arrived. We did a full review of some of our favorite instant coffees on the market and how they compare. Check out the list and consider the gift of caffeine for your hiker this year. A couple of our favorites at Backpacking Routes are CS Coffee and Alpine Start. But Garage Grown Gear also sells a coffee sampler bundle!

Coffee Sampler Bundle!

Trail Shoes

Trail shoes have become a bigger ticket item, but nonetheless, they are a staple of a hiker’s kit. Trail shoes are specific to each individual, so take a look at what they are already wearing. We also offer some good tips on where to buy recycled gear—here

Sunglasses

I never lose sunglasses, but I always manage to scratch them. On the Rim to Rim to Rim at the Grand Canyon, a gust of wind blew my nice sunglasses off my hat. I was able to retrieve them, but they had a scratch down the center. This is the category of gear that seems to stretch the furthest. Sunglasses can be found for anywhere from $10 all the way up to hundreds of dollars. I prefer something that doesn’t ruin my day if I drop them. The two sunglasses that I would recommend are Goodr if you are hoping for something with just enough functionality to work for your thru-hike, or Nathan’s new sunglasses, which are a bit more quality without breaking the bank.

GPS Unit / Hiker Locator

The greatest gift is often peace of mind. Many different trackers, locators, and two-way communicators have appeared on the market in the past few years, and we did a comparison of the three most popular. Two networks dominate the space, and from there preference and ease of use are largely the deciding factor. A number of plans exist to fit your needs or the person you would like to stay in communication with even when they are out of cell service.

Socks

Socks never led to excitement growing up, but now I truly appreciate a new pair of socks. I have often said that when I am rich and famous I will put on a new pair of socks every day. Darn Tough socks are quite popular, but I have also fallen in love with the National Parks Series that Swiftwick has put out.

VISION Six Impression National Parks $19.99

The post Gift Ideas for the Backpacker in Your Life appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

Region: Pacific West (Death Valley National Park, California)

Distance: 30 miles (2-3 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Dry and exposed terrain
• Difficult to navigate through the terrain and across numerous game trails
• Water is very sparse and difficult to find; little info on current water conditions

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate 

• No resupplies to worry about
• Defined water stops
• Few alternates to make wrong turns within the canyons

Season: Winter

Elevation Gain: 7,200 feet

Max Elevation: 3,691 feet

This is the rough route for the loop, but with the difficulty, we want to encourage you to further plan and note where each water source is, the logistics of reaching it, and become familiar with the turns and nuances of the terrain that can all be seen on a topographic map.

Other important GPS points:

Hiking the Death Valley Four Springs Loop

The Death Valley Four Springs Loop is one of the most difficult routes on our website. Don’t be fooled by the shorter distance and the wide-open terrain. There is no defined trail, and only a series of large canyons to hike through connecting four springs in the foothills of Death Valley. This route is in the southern and more rugged section of the national park, where it is rare to see even another car on the road.

The water on the route is the most tedious, difficult, and unknown aspect. The springs are often little more than seeps and trampled through by the wildlife. During my time in Death Valley, I saw wild horses, jackrabbits, burros (donkeys), and goats. On this route, I saw 20 wild burros.

As the name would suggest, the Four Springs Loop links four springs. While knowing their reliability completely depends on the conditions, I was able to scoop water out of each of them in February. In the clockwise direction, the springs are in the following order: Lost Spring, Squaw Spring, Willow Spring, and Mesquite Spring. These springs are the backbone of the route. Squaw Spring proved to only be a muddy pit, but the other three had enough water to easily scoop out with a bottle.

The route starts off on Warm Springs Canyon Road at a small, rugged intersection with ample room to park (location here). It initially follows an old road and drops down into the start of Lost Spring Canyon. There is a junction where two canyons split and this is where the loop completes itself. So the choice is either to hike clockwise or counterclockwise. Since I traveled the loop clockwise, that is the direction this will follow. The canyon on the left is Lost Spring Canyon and it is fairly simple to navigate through the soft dirt. The footing isn’t great and there are a couple of places where the walls narrow, but as long as you stay within the canyon, it should lead up to Lost Spring.

Beyond Lost Spring the canyon narrows further and becomes more difficult to climb through with a backpack. But there are plenty of burro trails to follow to avoid the thick brush. As the route continues to climb, it becomes exceedingly easy to take a wrong turn, especially as you approach the pass. Over the pass, the route drops into Anvil Spring Canyon and follows it all the way up to Squaw Spring. The spring is on the side of a large hill with lots of vegetation, but I did not find the spring to be flowing very well.

From Squaw Spring there are defined burro trails that lead north and slowly swing more to the west. There are signs of use as the route nears Willow Spring. A spur off Warm Springs Canyon Road leads to Willow Spring and a firepit can be found at the spot. At this point in the route, the trip can be extended further west to Anvil Spring, and even up to Striped Butte. But if this is as far as you are hiking, head back through Anvil Spring Canyon toward Squaw Spring, but instead of heading south to the spring, veer north into another larger and flatter wash.

The wash will slowly grow more narrow until the walls are quite steep. Shortly after you will reach Mesquite Spring. Steep canyon walls continue all the way through until it opens back up again at the junction that previously took you farther south at the beginning of the route. Retrace the steps through the wide canyon and back to the old road and to your parked car.

How to Get to the Death Valley Four Springs Loop

Nearest City: Las Vegas, Nevada (131 miles)

The trail begins off Warm Springs Canyon Road in Death Valley National Park. This is where I parked my car to do the loop (link here). It is a long drive from any established cities or even gas stations, so be prepared to be remote. But, while you are in the remote corner of the park, it is worth checking out Warm Springs Camp.

Instead of driving up and through Death Valley Junction and the more developed portions of the park, it is much faster to drive into the park through Shoshone and into the southeast corner of the national park. At Ashford, Junction follows Warm Springs Road leading off to your left and then to the GPS coordinate. There is little to no cell service in the area, so bear in mind that all directions should be downloaded before entering Death Valley National Park.

When to Hike the Death Valley Four Springs Loop

Water is the main constraint in Death Valley. It is one of the driest places and the water that is in the desert is often saline and undrinkable. The little amount of water combined with the heat makes this a perfect winter backpacking trip. The temperatures remain cooler and the chances of still-flowing springs are much higher.

Death Valley National Park Four Springs Loop Terrain

The terrain is very dry and rugged. The washes are uneven, loose, soft, and taxing to navigate through. The miles in Death Valley National Park are much more difficult than trail miles simply because of the continual attention required and the taxing terrain.

Logistics: Direction, Land Management, Water

Loop Direction: I traveled this loop in a clockwise direction and it seemed to work well with the reliability of the springs and camping. It did take a scoop in order to use Squaw Spring, but in a clockwise direction, the first half of the trail is more difficult than the second half. But the route can be done successfully in either direction.

Land Management: Death Valley National Park manages the entire area. To backpack, users should issue themselves a free voluntary permit either online or at one of the two ranger stations.

Know Before You Go

Water Capacity: One of the biggest causes for concern on this loop is water, water capacity, and successfully treating the water that is out there. With water so sparse in most of Death Valley, the water sources are very busy with wildlife and often are not clean. This route is designed to link a series of water sources throughout the canyons in the foothills of the national park, and many burros were standing right in the middle of the sources as I came upon them. I carried three liters for doing the loop as an overnight, but if you are planning to be out there longer, I would recommend carrying more capacity.

Remoteness: The route is far from any major visitors centers and has no cell service. It is important to be prepared and consider taking a personal locator, GPS unit, or some type of messenger with the challenges that this route presents.

Additional Resources

Death Valley National Park Website

Death Valley National Park Maps

The post Death Valley Four Springs Loop appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

The Overview

The Free Duo is a two-person freestanding tent—one that can be further secured with four stakes to spread the bathtub floor most efficiently. Eight stakes can be used in very windy weather to offer the most secure pitch. 

It is NOT a trekking pole shelter and is constructed with two sets of H-shaped poles that spread both the corners and the ceiling symmetrically. In order to tautly close the storm doors, two stakes (one on either side) are required. 

The single-wall shelter is constructed with Dyneema Composite Fabric and is perfectly designed to provide tight roof and walls, which limit fabric snapping in high winds. An overhang of the roof helped to keep snow and rain out of the interior. 

Testing the Tent

I tested Zpacks’ new Free Duo tent for six months, in Montana, Utah, Arizona, and Arkansas. The tent was asked to perform in snow, hail, rain, and occasional clear skies. 

I used the tent alone and with a partner, and the freestanding tent exceeded expectations. 

The learning curve was steep, but after a couple of pitches, I quickly grasped the most successful way to ward off inclement weather and cut down on interior condensation. Here is what I found through the rigorous testing of the shelter. 

Specs

Total shelter weight: 30.1 oz

Exterior Dimensions:

Peak height: 42″ (107 cm)

Ridgeline width: 45″ (114 cm) with vestibules 75″ (190 cm)

Length: 92″ (234 cm)

Interior Dimensions:

Floor width: 42″ (107 cm)

Floor length: 7.5 feet (2.29 meters)

Zipper entry height: 36″ (91 cm)

Packed Dimensions:

Tent body: 7″ diameter by 13″ tall (18 cm x 33 cm) / 520 cubic inches (8.5L)

Poles: 2.5″ x 20″ (6 cm x 51 cm)

The Pitch

While the tent is freestanding, it took me a few tries to get it comfortably pitched with the bathtub floor staked out correctly. The simple process of attaching the H-shaped poles got the tent 90% set up and would have been usable with the poles alone, but it took a few circles and some restaking of the guylines to successfully finish the pitch.  

It was especially important to set up the tent securely when I pitched it in a snowstorm at 9,000 feet. I needed the storm doors to be tightly closed and the roof to be correctly hanging over the floor to mitigate any snow blowing into the tent. It was a simpler process than a shelter constructed with trekking poles, and it performed very well in the winter storm, but it took trial and error to cinch down the guylines to equally spread each side. 

The Construction

The Free Duo combines the benefits of lightweight Dyneema Composite Fabric with the freestanding versatility sought after for rugged terrain. 

The poles are extremely lightweight compared to similar tents because of their Easton Carbon 6.3 material. According to Zpacks’ website, the Free Duo poles are stronger than the poles used in the Duplex Shelter. 

The bathtub floor of the tent is 6 inches high, which provided added protection in the snowy weather. The height was substantial enough to block any snow from blowing in through the doors. 

With entrances on both sides of the tent, it allows easy access for both partners (when used to its full two-person rating). 

In the true nature of the single-wall shelter, the tent is very packable. The body offered no noticeable difference when stuffed inside my 35-liter pack. The only difference was the 20-inch long folded segments of poles, which I simply stowed on the outside of my pack. 

Two-Person Use

When I used the tent alone, there was ample room even without staking out the bathtub bottom. I could stow my gear next to me and comfortably sleep in the middle of the tent. 

But when I used the tent with my partner, it took a few different tries and angles of staking to allow us to fit our inflatable sleeping pads inside. Even with a taut construction, it was a little tight. The condensed floor space noted, the headroom on this tent for two people is unmatched. 

Downfalls of the Free Duo

The footprint of the Free Duo is just big enough to fit two people in it. My partner and I could only fit our two inflatable sleeping pads inside after staking out the bathtub floor. We were both able to sleep comfortably in the tighter space, but it offered less floor space than the other two-person tents. 

The second downfall of the tent is the semi-flat roof. In a Montana blizzard, by morning there were a good 6 inches of snow piled on top. It was a simple fix—flicking the roof—but it did obscure any signs of daylight alerting me it was time to trudge through the snow once again.  

Benefits of the Free Duo

The Free Duo is a very light freestanding tent. Beyond that, the aspects that truly amazed me were …

The ease in finding a good spot to pitch the tent – The flip side of the small floor space is the ease in finding a spot for the tent. Compared to trekking pole tents, and others that require countless guylines and stakes, the Free Duo can be pitched simply on the footprint it takes up without stakes. We could not create enough space for the two of us with this style of pitch, but when I used it by myself, there was ample room, no tent stakes required. The footprint and finding a place to pitch this two-person tent is much smaller than comparable shelters. 

The limited number of stakes required – Another big bonus is the tent worked well when by myself and when together with my partner—requiring only 4 stakes. Even in inclement weather, the limited stakes proved to be all that were needed for a comfortable night’s sleep for the two of us. 

A large amount of headspace – The last thing is that this tent has unrivaled headspace. So if I am practicing my photography skills while sitting up, my partner can be sleeping next to me. In the blizzard, it was a huge plus to be able to fully dress before leaving my shelter. 

Final Thoughts

The Free Duo is a great design, developed over years, with unique poles to both spread the floor and create ample headspace. It is a great tent for a couple, although I would probably find something with a larger floor space if I were to use it with a friend.

It is my new single-walled shelter I use when hiking at a more relaxed pace, and the space and security it offers make it just as valuable for a single person in inclement weather. I was continually impressed by both the simplicity and construction of the Free Duo. 

Find the Zpacks Free Duo on our gear lists

The post Zpacks Free Duo Tent Review appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

I used the original Coros Vertix for nearly two years and recently switched to the Vertix 2. After a month and a number of long days and multiple runs, I finally feel ready to give it an honest review.

The watch is made for those looking to track adventures exceeding well beyond a couple of days while also storing maps, music, and coordinates on the watch. For those who want a watch for shorter daily use, there are other options in the Coros lineup like the Apex or the Pace. 

Modes and Activities

Coros has a wide array of different ways to track activities. With 27 in total, and multisport options like Triathalon and more obscure activities like indoor rowing, windsurfing, and ski touring, there simply is an option for just about every possible form of exercise. 

COROS VERTIX 2 | REI Co-op

Battery Life

The Vertix 2 further builds on the best in class battery life that the original Vertix had by almost doubling it. With UltraMax GPS Mode enabled and a limitation on live tracking and playing music, the watch can run for nearly 10 days. This is such an impressive amount of time that it is nearly reaching the limit of any unsupported adventure. I did find the UltraMax GPS mode to be less accurate, but it is nice that the feature exists. 

Ease of Use

The latest Vertix provides an overwhelming amount of data. There are charts for everything from VO2 max to cadence, and everything in between. It is nice to have this large amount of data and I am sure that some people make better use of it than myself, but at first, the new amount of information is a bit overwhelming. I stick to the basic interface of Strava for a lot of split analysis and vertical gain numbers. Unlike some of the competitors, the Coros app is not a social app. There is no ability to follow others. Also, with the number of times I have left my watch running on the drive home after an activity, I have been unable to edit down the data in the app to only include the run portion. Strava has a simple feature for this, but the Coros app does not have the same ability at the moment. Upon following up with them, it sounds like something is in the works. 

Accuracy

My Original Vertix always struggled with vertical gain and elevation accuracy, especially if it got wet. It would always correct, but that correction would add an unprecedented gain into the middle of an activity. The most notable of these was on the Teton Crest Trail when a friend’s watch showed nearly half a vertical mile less in elevation gain than my original Vertix did. I have not had the same issue with the Vertix 2, especially if I let it acquire the satellites before starting the activity. Also, while I believe wrist heart rate technology is improving, I have found it to be wildly off at times. This is related to a number of factors, ranging from dirty sensors, or not picking up the pulse in my wrist. I have seen this gap in accuracy across the board with most watches during activity. A chest strap for monitoring heart rate is simply the most accurate method. 

Connectivity

One of the best features of the Coros watches is their ease of use right out of the box and the speed at which activities are uploaded. Even after a full day of tracking, the activity uploads quickly and syncs directly to fitness tracking applications like Strava. Setting up the watch initially with a phone is easily done by downloading the Coros application and then simply pointing the phone at the QR code. Mine was ready for a run within only a few minutes. 

Downsides

Being a new product, some of the ancillary features like watch faces and data displays are still being improved. On the original Coros, I liked the subtle standard analog style watch face, but that addition has not been added to the list of options on the Vertix 2. The bezel has also changed on the Vertix 2. Instead of unlocking the watch by twisting the small knob, the new watch unlocks by simply pushing in. This makes it much easier to unlock than the original, but also means that I have inadvertently started the watch in an activity mode while not intending to. A quick bump or bending my wrist in a certain way is likely to start the watch. As a result, I switched the bezel to the opposite side of the watch (away from my wrist) to eliminate the unintended starting of activities.

Final Words

The new Coros Vertix 2 improves on a number of features that the original Vertix had while also adding connectivity, music, a larger screen, and the potential for controlling a camera. The watch is heavier, larger, and has a wider band, but it is also the same cost as the most expensive variation of the original Vertix. If considering battery life alone, this is simply the best option, but if thinking through value and using a daily watch for shorter activities, the Apex may be a more affordable option. For a long thru-hike, I would choose the Vertix 2, but for day-to-day life, I would lean toward a more affordable watch in the Coros line. 

The post Coros Vertix 2 – A Watch Review appeared first on Backpacking Routes.