Region: Mid-Atlantic (Adirondack Park, New York)

Length: 50 miles (3 to 4 days)

Physical Difficulty: Easy

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

Season: Spring, summer, fall

Net Elevation Gain: 4,094 feet

Hiking the Cranberry Lake 50

The Cranberry Lake 50 is in the northern reaches of Adirondack Park, but doesn’t have the soaring mountains of the park’s High Peaks. What it does have is a gently rolling up and down trail with campsites spread out on Cranberry Lake and the many ponds surrounding it.

I met six people while hiking, so this doesn’t have the crowds of the High Peaks. One hiker said this is what drew him to the route.

Trailhead access is from Wanakena and Cranberry Lake, small villages with friendly people and seasonal homes lining the northern shore of the lake. The roadwalk through Wanakena is along quiet roads, and people in homes and passing cars waved to me, asked me if I was “hiking the 50,” and offered water. Most of the walk through Cranberry Lake is on Route 3, a busy two-lane highway with wide bike lanes for walking so there’s less interaction with people in the village.

I parked at the Gilbert Tract trailhead on Route 3 east of Cranberry Lake. My car was the only one in the lot on Wednesday morning; four other cars were parked there when I returned the following Saturday.

The trail from the Gilbert Tract trailhead meanders through hardwood forests and bogs, with plank bridges providing dry passage through the bogs. The first Cranberry Lake campsites are about four miles in on Brandy Brook Flow. A few miles later a side trail leads one mile to East Inlet and more campsites on the lake.

The trail heads away from the lake and begins crossing ridges, passing Curtis and Dog ponds, both with small campsites. I stayed my first night at Dog Pond with two other hikers, stretching out on shoreline rock ledges while resting after a roughly 12-mile day. The next campsite was about 6.5 miles away at Chair Rock Flow on Cranberry Lake, and I didn’t have it in me to continue. So I ate supper by the pond and watched the sunset.

The second day I headed out early with no specific destination. Lean-tos at Olmstead and Cowhorn ponds, campsites at Cat Mountain and Glasby ponds, and lean-tos and campsites at High Falls were all possibilities. This section of the trail has the most elevation gain of the hike, but it wasn’t anything that beat me up.

The trail passed through wilderness forests, at times on what appeared to be old logging roads. Shortly after passing Cat Mountain Pond I had a decision to make: hike the 1.4-mile round-trip spur trail up Cat Mountain (2,257 feet) or continue on to camp at High Falls. I chose the mountain, and the trail was moderately steep with a short rock scramble near the top. The view from the rock ledges on the mountaintop took in the Five Ponds Wilderness to the south, an area I’ve often thought about visiting. And if I had set aside more than four days for this trip, that would have been a possibility.

Once down from the mountain I decided that hiking on to High Falls was out and I headed for Glasby Pond, less than a mile away. The campsite at Glasby Pond is small, but has a short path to the pond, where I filtered water, ate supper, and chatted with another hiker spending the night. In the morning I had breakfast by the pond and watched the sunrise. Total miles for the day (including Cat Mountain) was about 16.

Day 3 was an easy hike to High Falls, about .4 of a mile off the CL50, and the trip was well worth it to see the falls on the Oswegatchie River. This is a popular overnight site, with lean-tos and several campsites.

Back on the 50 the trail follows a mostly straight, flat line about nine miles to Wanakena. Along the way the trail crosses several beaver dams, with the water flowing over the dams ranging from ankle deep to higher, depending on the amount of recent rain. The worst crossing was ankle deep when I went through.

The hike to Wanakena was easy, but I found the flat trail and scenery monotonous. Plus I was pushing myself to to rack up miles to have an easy last day back to my car. Passing through Wanakena cheered me up as I found the people ready with a wave or hello. I regret not stopping for a drink and snack at Otto’s Abode.

My day ended at the tent site near loop 1 on the Peavine Swamp Trail, a nice spot but the only campsite I saw on the 50 that was not on the water. While falling asleep I heard barred owls screeching on one side of the campsite and traffic on nearby Route 3 on the other side. Total miles for the day was about 17.

The fourth day was an easy six-ish miles through woods and on roads back to my car east of Cranberry Lake. I made sure to stop for a snack and drink at the Lakeside General Store, right on the trail on Route 3. It’s a popular stop for CL50 hikers in summer, but hiker visitors had dropped off by the time I stopped by.

How to Get to the Cranberry Lake 50

Find it: Wanakena and Cranberry Lake

Closest city: 2.5 hours north of Syracuse, New York.

You can also start from Albany (3.25 hours) or Plattsburg (2 hours). All three cities have airports, but you’ll be driving from there to Wanakena and Cranberry Lake.

Parking: There are several spots for parking in Wanakena and Cranberry Lake. I parked at the Gilbert Tract trailhead.

• Recreation area on South Shore Road in Wanakena
• Peavine Swamp trailhead on Route 3 west of Cranberry Lake
• Department of Environmental Conservation boat launch on Columbian Road in Cranberry Lake
• Gilbert Tract trailhead on Route 3 a short walk east of Cranberry Lake
• Burntbridge Pond/Brandy Brook trailhead, on Route 3 about 2 miles east of Cranberry Lake. This involves a short hike to the 50.

About the Cranberry Lake 50

The Cranberry Lake 50 is a collection of existing trails in the Five Ponds Wilderness and Cranberry Lake Wild Forest within Adirondack Park. The 50 is clearly marked with bold blue trail markers stamped with the number 50 and it’s hard—but not impossible—to miss a turn and go the wrong way at a trail junction. (Yes, I did miss a turn but corrected it.) Clearly marked side trails lead even deeper into the wilderness and campsites on ponds.

The trail is well-maintained, with only a few blowdowns blocking the trail. All were easy to walk over or around.

Cranberry Lake was created in the late 1800s when the Oswegatchie River was dammed, and got its name from the cranberry bogs around the river. The dam now provides hydroelectric power.

When to Hike the Cranberry Lake 50

Spring: May can be a good month for hiking, between the likely last snowfall and before the onset of bugs. March and April can be cold with snow a strong possibility, and the bugs begin swarming in June.

Summer: Buggy, wet, and warm. Some people prefer the summer when they can swim in the ponds.

Fall: My favorite time for hiking. The temperature was in the mid 60s during the day and low 40s at night when I hiked the third week of September. The maple trees around the lakes were ablaze with red and the sky was brilliantly blue for four days. I can’t remember when the last time was I had a string of days like that.

Winter: Hiking the 50 in the winter is possible, but the snow will be deep and the temperatures low. Snowmobiles use some of the trails that make up the 50 so it’s important to watch out for them.

The Cranberry Lake 50 Terrain

The trail from Wanakena to High Falls is on an old logging railroad, and can be tedious in its unrelenting flatness. Several beaver dam crossings can be overflowing with deep water in spring and high-rain summers. Although some hikers avoid going counterclockwise from Wanakena to avoid the certainty of wet shoes early in the hike while crossing the beaver dams, the flat trail is an easy first-day hike. And your shoes are going to get wet eventually along the trail.

The trail from Route 3 in Cranberry Lake also starts with little elevation change along planks through several deep-water bogs. Only after reaching Cranberry Lake in several miles does the trail begin rolling up and down along ridges, and continues that way to Glasby Pond a few miles east of High Falls.

The 50 follows roads in Cranberry Lake and Wanakena, and an easy trail links the two villages.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water

Permits: No permits are needed to hike the Cranberry Lake 50.

Camping: Lean-tos at High Falls, Cowhorn Pond, and Olmstead Pond, and primitive campsites at other ponds and Cranberry Lake; most have an open privy, and a few have picnic tables. Campsites are marked on the Cranberry Lake 50 map.

Water: Streams and ponds are spread out along the trail so you don’t have to worry about running short of water. There are several beaver ponds on the trail between High Falls and Wanakena, but I don’t recommend getting water from them. I filtered water drawn from streams running into ponds or away from ponds to avoid beaver activity in the ponds.

Route-finding: Blue discs with 50 inscribed on them are nailed to trees along the trail. The markers are easy to see and it’s rare to hike far without seeing one.

Water Crossings: Bridges span most wide streams. But the beaver dam crossings on the trail between High Falls and Wanakena are covered with water, ranging from ankle deep when I hiked in late September to much deeper in spring and a heavy-rain summer.

Know Before You Go

Clockwise or Counterclockwise?: There’s no right answer. Some people hike clockwise to leave the beaver dam crossings and guaranteed wet feet to the end of the trail. Others go counterclockwise because the trail from Wanakena to High Falls is the flattest section. When I hiked I met three people hiking clockwise (four including me) and three counterclockwise, so it’s really personal preference.

Transportation: Driving your own vehicle is the only practical way to get to the trail.

Cell Reception: Surprisingly good in the village of Cranberry Lake, but I couldn’t get reception anywhere else, including in Wanakena.

Trail Guides: The Cranberry Lake 50 Pocket Guide, by Jamie Savage & Spencer Morrissey, Wildcliff Press, was updated in spring 2023 and sold out almost immediately. Other sources for information are the Western Trails guidebook and the National Geographic Adirondack Park (Old Forge/Oswegatchie) map. I used the National Geographic map for trail mileage and the Cranberry Lake 50 organization trail map available here for campsites and shelters along the trail.

Trail Stops: Otto’s Abode in Wanakena and the Lakeside General Store in Cranberry Lake are right on the trail and are must stops for a cold drink and snacks. Both are near trailhead parking.

Lodging: Packbasket Adventures, 12 South Shore Road Extension, Wanakena. Overnight stays, breakfast, packed lunches. Shuttle to Cranberry Lake 50 trailheads. (315) 848-3488

Wildlife: Moose and bears are in the woods, but they’re seldom seen. Red squirrels are seen much more frequently, especially at campsites where they’re trying to raid food stashes. I carry a bear can and had no problems. A fellow hiker at one campsite had a difficult time finding a suitable spot to hang his food bag. Loons live on the lakes, and their haunting calls fill the forest. And of course beavers are active along the trail.

Trails in the 50: The Cranberry Lake 50 combines existing trails to create a loop around Cranberry Lake. Details on those trails can be found on the CL50 website under trail descriptions.

Regulations: State land hiking and camping regulations for the CL50

The 50 Patch: Register your hike and donate a minimum of $5 to get a patch for completing the Cranberry Lake 50.

Behind the 50: The Cranberry Lake 50 is a project of Five Ponds Partners, created to draw people to northwestern Adirondack Park.

State Campground: The New York State-run Cranberry Lake Campground is off Route 3 in Cranberry Lake.

Don’t Rush: The Cranberry Lake 50 can be hiked in three days and two nights. I did it in 3.5. But there are so many side trails leading to ponds deeper into the wilderness that I could easily see spending a week hiking pond to pond. And if you like to fish that’s even more incentive to stay longer.

Cranberry Lake 50 Resources

The Cranberry Lake 50

Cranberry Lake 50 Facebook group

The Cranberry Lake 50 Pocket Guide by James Savage, a professor at the Ranger School in Wanakena.

Western Trails guidebook

Adirondack Park (Old Forge/Oswegatchie) map

Local weather

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The 55-mile Teton Loop is an alternative to the popular Teton Crest Trail, with fewer logistical hurdles, and an opportunity to experience the full diversity of Grand Teton National Park.

Region: Mountain West (Grand Teton National Park)
Distance: 55 miles (2-5 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Steep terrain, including two 3,000-foot climbs
• Climbing and descending at high elevations
• Exposure, sun, and thunderstorms at high elevations

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

Season: Summer, early fall

Total Elevation Gain: 9,643 feet

Hiking the Teton Loop

This 55-mile loop allows hikers to experience the Tetons from almost every angle in the park, including low alpine forests, steep granite canyons, and high alpine ridges. Attempting the route in two days is challenging yet rewarding. You could turn this route into a longer endeavor but this requires additional work navigating the park’s competitive backcountry permit system.

My strategy in attempting this loop was to keep things simple. I was willing and capable to hike long days with a light pack. I had initially tried and failed to secure an advance reservation permit in January when they are first released. Without this advance permit, however, I had the flexibility to wait and monitor current weather and wildfire conditions until I was ready to begin my hike.

The park allocates two-thirds of backcountry camping for first come, first served permits. To secure one of these permits, I arrived at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station at sunrise the day before my desired start date. While I was not the first visitor in line at 5 a.m., many of the people ahead of me were requesting climbing permits. Whether trying to secure an advance reservation or a first come, first served permit, be prepared with several alternative itineraries. The stars aligned and I was granted my first choice start date and camping zone. 

The Grand Teton National Park website warns hikers to expect travel of no more than 2 miles per hour, with an additional hour for every 1,000 feet of elevation gain. My plan was to start at the Jenny Lake Trailhead and camp at the Death Canyon Shelf camping zone, splitting the loop into two even-mileage days (final mileage being 28.6 and 26.7 miles). My pace was brisk but comfortable and I enjoyed longer breaks at water sources when needed. 

How to get to Teton Loop

Closest Major City: Jackson, Wyoming

This route can be accessed from several trailheads along Teton Park Road with overnight parking permitted at the following trailheads: String Lake, Jenny Lake, and Lupine Meadows.

Parking at these trailheads overnight is only allowed with a backcountry permit (more on permits below). Car make, model, and license plate information are recorded on your backcountry permit (no physical parking permit is issued). One advantage of starting and ending at Jenny Lake is the Jenny Lake Store. If you are exiting the park headed north, this is one of the few food options as you head up Highway 191 toward Yellowstone National Park.

When to Hike the Teton Loop

Midsummer to early fall is the best time to hike the Teton Loop (I highly recommend aiming for wildflower season!). Other conditions you may consider when planning for this trip:

Snow Level: Snow may linger at higher elevations.

Wildfires: Breathing conditions, let alone views, can be severely impacted by heavy wildfire smoke later in the summer. It depends on the year, but keep tabs on air quality and wildfire locations.

Bugs: I did not encounter any bugs but I would recommend carrying bug spray as insurance.

Weather: Daytime and overnight temperatures can fluctuate dramatically from the valley floor to the Teton Crest.

Afternoon Thunderstorms: I experienced light rain and some thunder all three days I was in the park. Bring a rain jacket!

It is also important to remember that Grand Teton National Park is home to many large mammals. During certain times of the year these animals are more or less active. For example, the peak of the Rocky Mountain elk breeding season runs from mid-September through mid-October. I carried a bear bell (and bear spray) to alert larger animals of my approach. Bear canisters are required for food storage in the backcountry. Canisters may be checked out for free when you pick up your permit. 

Teton Loop Terrain

The Teton Loop has varied terrain but nothing too challenging. Starting at Jenny Lake, the route leads you through a large meadow before entering the alpine forest along the Valley Trail. This section of trail is spotted with numerous lakes and creeks and water is ample. As you begin climbing up to the crest, you will encounter rockier terrain; however, trails are well maintained along the remainder of the crest.

Teton Loop Logistics: Permits, Camping, Leave No Trace

Permits: A backcountry permit is required for all overnight stays in Grand Teton National Park. Camping is only permitted in designated camping zones. Regardless of the processes outlined below, make sure you have several alternative itineraries on hand when securing your permit.

The advance reservation system is highly competitive! One-third of permits are reserved for each camping zone. Reservations for the summer season are accepted January through May (check the park website to find out what day and time they are released for the current season). Reservations are accepted on recreation.gov and require a $45 nonrefundable processing fee. 

The remaining two-thirds of permits are saved for first come, first served. These permits are available at the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center, Colter Bay Visitor Center, and the Jenny Lake Ranger Station. Permits are available the day of your start day or one day in advance. There is a $35 fee for each walk-in backcountry permit.

Camping: Some of the backcountry camping zones of Grand Teton National Park, such as Marion Lake, have “improved” sites with designated tent sites and bear boxes. Other camping zones lack these amenities and backpackers should use existing bare ground sites to minimize impact. You must always camp at least 200 feet from water and the trail, so that you are out of sight and sound of others. 

Leave No Trace: Campsite “improvements,” such as constructing benches and digging trenches, are prohibited. Fires are also prohibited in the backcountry. Visitors are required to carry out all food scraps and trash (including toilet paper and used tampons or sanitary pads). These items can be disposed of at the Jenny Lake Trailhead when you complete the loop. Additionally, bury all human waste 6-8 inches deep in soil that is at least 200 feet from lakes, streams, and wetlands.

Know Before You Go

Weather: Weather conditions and temperatures can change quickly in the Teton Range. Check forecasts and be prepared for cold temperatures, especially at higher elevations. Weather forecasts for Jackson, Wyoming, or Moose, Wyoming, (the closest towns) may not reflect conditions at higher elevations. Check with a park ranger when you pick up your permit for more accurate information.

Bears: Black and grizzly bears live in Grand Teton National Park. Carry bear spray and know how to use it. Backcountry campers are required to use an Interagency Grizzly Bear Committee approved canister for storing food, toiletries, and garbage. (Bonus: They also protect against rodents!) 

Water: Water is available from the many lakes and mountain streams. Treat all water with portable water filters, chemical methods, or by boiling. Assume all untreated water contains harmful organisms.

Difficulty: The route described should only be attempted by experienced hikers. Steep climbs and changes in altitude could negatively impact hiking endurance and overall physical health. Prepare yourself with good physical conditioning and basic first aid staples such as ibuprofen, blister care, and electrolytes.

Shorter Options: Listen to your body and take one of the cutoffs described above if needed.

Additional Teton Loop Resources

Backcountry Camping – Grand Teton National Park (website)

Backcountry Camping – Grand Teton National Park (pdf)

Backcountry Permits –Recreation.gov (website)

Inger Appanaitis is a modern-day Viking leading solo expeditions through the Pacific and Mountain West regions. Despite growing up on the Southern Oregon Coast, she thrives in the alpine! Some of her favorite areas to explore are the Eastern Sierra, San Juan Mountains, and the Northern Rockies (Beartooths, Sawtooths, Tetons, and Winds…oh my!). Follow along for dogs, training, and trails @ingerfied

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Popular as a cycling route but also prime for backpacking, the Maah Daah Hey Trail is a 144-mile point-to-point route across the badlands and prairies of western North Dakota. It passes through Theodore Roosevelt National Park and features stark landscapes, abundant wildlife, and unique geological formations. 

Region: Plains Midwest (North Dakota)

Length: 144 miles (10-14 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• Summer and winter conditions tend to be extreme, best to hike in the shoulder seasons.  
• The trail is moderately graded with a moderate amount of climbing.
• Lots of wind and sun exposure with little shelter or shade.

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Water is scarce, water boxes can be used to cache ahead of time if desired.
• Both termini are remote though a shuttle service is available.
• Trail is well marked and maintained.
• Permit not required.

Season: Late spring, early or late summer, fall

Elevation: 1,978 – 2,940 feet
Total Elevation Change: (South to North) +16,149 feet, -16,710 feet

Hiking the Maah Daah Hey Trail

The Maah Daah Hey Trail winds through western North Dakota, connecting the north and south units of Theodore Roosevelt National Park. Well known in the mountain biking community as one of the nation’s premiere stretches of single track, it is still relatively unknown in the backpacking world. For those willing to travel to this remote location, manage potentially long water carries, and brave an often unforgiving landscape, this trail has a lot to offer for backpackers as well as those traveling by bike or horseback. 

The Maah Daah Hey Trail offers hikers a unique opportunity to travel through remote landscapes in nearly complete solitude while remaining on a well-maintained and well-marked trail. Rustic campgrounds are located roughly every 20 miles along the trail and have both potable water and latrines. The town of Medora is located one-third of the way along the trail and can serve as a resupply point. It also provides opportunities for food and recreation before or after your hike. 

Hikable in 10 to 14 days, the Maah Daah Hey Trail makes a good intermediate hike. Because of the scarce water, the amount of exposure, and the potentially extreme temperatures, I would not recommend this trail to beginners. For those with some experience, it is not particularly strenuous or demanding. 

How to get to the Maah Daah Hey Trail 

Nearest City: Dickinson, North Dakota (40 minutes)

Dickinson has the nearest airport and is a 40-minute drive from the closest town of Medora, around two hours from either terminus. Bismarck, ND, has a slightly larger airport and is an additional 1.5 hours away. 

Both termini, CCC Campground in the north and Burning Coal Vein campground in the south, are easily accessible on mostly paved roads. Other campgrounds and trailheads along the Maah Daah Hey are more difficult to reach. 

There is a shuttle service offered by Dakota Cyclery in Medora. As the name suggests, they primarily cater to mountain bikers but they are happy to accommodate hikers as well. Cost for a one-way shuttle from Medora (for up to four people) people is $250. Vehicles can be left at the shop. 

Keep in mind that if you plan on using the designated water boxes to cache water for yourself, caching will take between a half and a full day. 

When to Hike the Maah Daah Hey Trail

The wells at the campgrounds are turned on each year in May. It is not recommended that you hike when the wells are not in service, as they are the only reliable sources of water on trail. If you are hiking before Memorial Day, it would be a good idea to call ahead and make sure the water is on before you go. The best time to hike this trail is within relatively narrow windows in late spring or early fall. Winters are prohibitively harsh and the town of Medora mostly shuts down in the off-season. Summers get surprisingly hot in the Badlands: it is not uncommon for temperatures to reach 100 degrees Fahrenheit. 

If you choose to hike in the spring, be aware that when it rains the bentonite clay in the Badlands becomes a real mess. Things tend to dry out quickly and it is recommended that you refrain from tearing up the trail by waiting until things dry if it becomes too muddy. Ticks are often abundant in the spring but the species in the area do not carry Lyme disease. 

The Maah Daah Hey Trail Terrain 

Most hikers will average between 1,500 and 2,500 feet of elevation gain per day on this trail. There are some steep and extended climbs but the trail was built with bikes and horses in mind so it tends to be nicely graded. While often dry and dusty, the clay that makes up the Badland formations becomes sticky, slippery, and difficult to traverse when it does rain.

Maah Daah Hey Trail Logistics: Permits, Camping, Resupply and Water

Permits: A permit is not required to hike this trail and camping permits are only required within the Theodore Roosevelt National Park boundary. I did not camp within the park, but make sure you call ahead if you plan on setting up camp within national park boundaries.

Camping: Many people will choose to camp at the primitive campgrounds along the trail, as they are the only reliable sources of water beyond what you cache yourself. They are reasonably priced at $10 per night and are equipped with a hand pump for water and a pit toilet. For those who prefer dispersed camping, there are plenty of opportunities in the national grassland. Make sure to pay close attention to your map, however, as the trail does pass through private and state land where camping is prohibited. 

Resupply: Medora is located one-third of the way along the trail. It is about 1.5 miles into town along a paved bike path. Resupply options are fairly limited but there is a small general store and a few restaurants. Hours can be limited so you may want to call ahead. If you are utilizing the shuttle service, you also have the option to leave a box in your vehicle or at Dakota Cyclery. Again, just make sure they will be open when you plan to pick it up.  

Water: Procuring water is the most challenging aspect of the Maah Daah Hey Trail and requires that you have a plan before starting. If you are confident hiking 20 miles or more between water sources, the trail can be done with only a single water cache. The cache is easily accessible and on the way to the southern terminus, so there is really no reason not to utilize it.

If that distance is outside your comfort zone, you will need to cache more water ahead of time. There are designated water boxes provided for this purpose along the way. Make sure to label your water with your name and the latest possible date you would plan to use it. “Expired” water can sometimes be found in the cache boxes and is free for the taking, however, you should not rely on it. Some of the water boxes are very remote and seldom used. 

Waterbox Locations (Mile markers run south to north)

Besides the water caches, hand pumps at the campgrounds are the only other reliable source of drinking water. The water from the pump is technically potable but tends to be very cloudy. If you are picky about such things you might consider filtering it. There are a few stream and river crossings but they are all drainages that come from the Badlands, and we don’t recommend drinking from them even after filtering. They apparently have high mineral/metal content and tend to clog filters with sediment. They also aren’t conveniently located so I didn’t bother. I did filter out of a few cattle tanks near the north end of the trail, but they are inconsistent.  

Know Before You Go

Plentiful wildlife: Bison, wild horses (in TRNP), pronghorn, mule deer, prairie dogs, prairie rattlesnakes, and bull snakes can all be found along this trail. You will also encounter plenty of cattle grazing on the national grassland and private property. Be aware of your surroundings and give the wildlife plenty of space (especially the bison and rattlesnakes).  

Have a plan for drinking water! It is hard to overstate the importance of this as it is the most challenging aspect of the trail. If you plan on hiking before Memorial Day, call ahead and make sure the water pumps have been turned on. 

Check the water levels before attempting to cross the Little Missouri River: The trail crosses the Little Missouri twice (Sully Creek and Elkhorn). The water levels are typically fine for crossing but it can be impassable in the spring or after heavy rains. Check USGS or download RiverApp and search for “Little Missouri River (ND).  

Resources 

Dakota Cyclery – Shuttle Service

Guide Book

Trail Maps

The Maah Daah Hey Trail Association 

bikepacking.com 

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Region: New England (Maine)

Length: 99.4 miles (5 – 10 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

Season: Spring, summer, fall
Total Elevation Gain: ~15,000 feet
Maximum Elevation: 3,654 feet

Hiking the 100-Mile Wilderness

BPR editor Hugh Owen was 22 when he hiked the Appalachian Trail through the 100-Mile Wilderness in 1975 on his first long-distance backpacking trip, carrying close to 50 pounds on his back and barely enough food. He wore cotton clothes and was woefully short of warm layers.

He picked up a trail partner on his second day, and met maybe six other hikers in the Wilderness. It’s a trip that started his love for backpacking.

Hugh relied on youthful hubris during his hike, but the Wilderness is not to be taken lightly. It’s rugged in sections, and isolated. A food resupply is recommended for anyone taking more than 5 days to hike.

But the rewards are immense for those who prepare physically and mentally.

The northern section is filled with remote lakes. Farther south the trail crosses several peaks with stunning views of the lake-studded land below.

And at night the sky is ablaze with stars in an area designated as an International Dark Sky Park.

Starting at Abol Bridge and heading south the AT is relatively easy as it skirts the lakes. The three main climbs in the early section are over Rainbow Ledges and Nesuntabant and Little Boardman mountains.

The AT briefly follows the same path as the Great Circle Trail near Nahmakanta Lake.

The terrain becomes more challenging as it enters the White Cap Range, climbing steeply to White Cap Mountain (3,654 feet).

The view from White Cap takes in the lakes to the north, and for hikers coming from the south, their first view of Katahdin in the distance. The trail continues over Hay, West Peak, and Gulf Hagas mountains before descending to the West Branch of the Pleasant River.

The trail begins climbing again to cross the Barren-Chairback Range and its five peaks: Chairback, Columbus, Third, Fourth, and Barren. The views through the range are some of the best in the Wilderness.

The trail also passes East Chairback, West Chairback, and Cloud ponds, geographically known as tairns, bodies of water created by the scouring of glaciers.

The trail drops after Barren Mountain and continues on a mostly flat path to Monson. Water crossings can be difficult at Long Pond and Big and Little Wilson Streams. Near the Little Wilson Stream crossing the trail passes Little Wilson Falls, the highest waterfall on the AT in Maine.

The Wilderness ends at Maine Route 15, 3.5 miles north of Monson.

How to Get to the 100-Mile Wilderness

Access to the Wilderness is from Abol Bridge in Millinocket, Maine, in the north and from Maine Route 15 in Monson in the south. The Appalachian Trail Hostel & Outfitters in Millinocket and Shaw’s Hiker Hostel in Monson provide lodging and long-distance shuttles.

The nearest airport is Bangor International, about 72 miles from Millinocket and 56 miles from Monson.

Cyr Bus Line stops in Medway, about 11 miles from Millinocket, on its daily run between the Concord Coach Lines station at 1039 Union St. in Bangor and Caribou, Maine. The bus leaves from the station across the street from the airport at 5:30 p.m. daily, and arrives in Medway at 6:40 p.m. An Appalachian Trail Hostel shuttle can pick you up in Medway.

The hostel has a daily 9 a.m. shuttle to the Medway Cyr bus stop, where you can catch the 9:30 a.m. bus to Bangor.

The shuttles are primarily for overnight guests, but non-guests can make arrangements for one.

Concord Coach Lines travels to Bangor from Boston, Massachusetts; New York City; and multiple cities and towns in Maine and New Hampshire.

Greyhound also has a bus that runs to 360 Odlin Road in Bangor from Boston and New York City. The station is about 3 miles from the airport.

Cars can be parked long-term at Abol Bridge while hiking the Wilderness, and can be parked at Shaw’s for $1 a day.

When to Hike the 100-Mile Wilderness

Mid June to early July is a good weather window for early-season hiking, though bugs can be bothersome. Summer is hot, humid, and buggy, and best avoided. September after Labor Day and early October are mostly cool, and the foliage begins turning in late September. Youth groups often overwhelm campsites in the summer. Southbound Appalachian Trail hikers typically begin their trip from Katahdin through the Wilderness in June, and northbound thru-hikers begin trickling through in July. September brings a crush of northbound thru-hikers.

100-Mile Wilderness Terrain

The trail crosses streams that need to be forded, and some of the crossings can be difficult. Some hikers carry water shoes for water crossings; others wade through with shoes on and empty out the water on the opposite shoe.

The terrain varies from soft duff to rocks that can be slippery when wet.

White Cap Mountain is the highest peak at 3,654 feet.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water

Permits: No permits needed for the Wilderness, but one may be needed to hike Katahdin north of the Wilderness.

This is from the Baxter State Park website:

“All backpackers who enter or exit the Park via the A.T. need a permit. In order to stay at the Birches Long Distance Hiker Campsite, hikers should have completed at least 100 miles of the A.T. contiguous to the Park immediately prior to entering the Park. In other words, they should have hiked continuously northward—without leaving the A.T.—from Monson or a point farther south.”

Camping: Shelters and hardened tentsites are abundant along the Appalachian Trail, but be wary of shelter mice that are adept at getting into food. Campfires in the Wilderness are allowed only at shelters and designated campsites. Campsites and lean-tos designated on the Maine Appalachian Trail Club maps have privies, but no bear boxes. Dispersed camping is allowed on the trail except near Nahmakanta Lake.

Water: The trail passes many streams and ponds, and it’s a good idea to filter or purify water. Most shelters and campsites have reliable water sources.

Resupply, Shuttles, and Lodging

Shaw’s Hiker Hostel, Monson: Hearty breakfast, rooms, food drops, shuttles, hiker-friendly gear and food store

The Lakeshore House, Monson: Lodging, restaurant,

100 Mile Wilderness Adventures and Outfitters, Monson: Lodging, shuttle

Appalachian Trail Hostel & Outfitters, Millinocket: Rooms, shuttles, food drops, hiker friendly gear and food store

Whitehouse Landing Camps: Not a resupply stop, but a chance to sleep in a dry bed, wash clothes, and eat a home-cooked meal. Sound the horn once at a dock and the owner will cross Pemadumcook Lake in a boat when he has time.

Know Before You Go

The 100-Mile Wilderness is as wild as it gets in New England, but it’s not totally cut off from civilization. Logging roads pass through the forest, and hunting and fishing camps dot the many lakes.

The logging roads provide access to the Wilderness so it’s possible to resupply during a thru-hike or do a section hike. As logging has declined in the Wilderness conservation groups and the state of Maine have purchased land, and 330,000 acres of the Wilderness are now conserved forests.

Cell phone coverage is spotty, with the best coverage on peaks, so it’s a good idea to carry a satellite communicator.

Should you hike north or south? Hiking north gets the hardest section out of the way first; hiking south lets you ease into the trail and save the peaks for the end. Another possibility is to section hike using a shuttle.

100-Mile Wilderness Resources

Maine Appalachian Trail Club: The Appalachian Trail Guide for Maine can be purchased online at the MATC website. Maps 1-3 cover the 100-Mile Wilderness.

Appalachian Mountain Club: The club’s Moose Point Cabin, Gorman Chairback Lodge and Cabins, Little Lyford Lodge and Cabins, and Medishwa Lodge and Cabins are near or within the Wilderness, and provide good opportunities for day hiking.

Appalachian Trail Visitor Center, Monson

FarOut: The app has a guide for the Appalachian Trail in Maine.

Shaw’s Hiker Hostel

Appalachian Trail Hostel & Outfitters

Baxter State Park

atweather.org

BPR editor Hugh Owen hiked the 100-Mile Wilderness southbound in September 1975 as part of an Appalachian Trail hike through New England. BPR co-founder Maggie Slepian passed through the Wilderness at the end of her northbound AT thru-hike much later.

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The Ozark Highlands Trail is a 254-mile point-to-point backpacking route in Arkansas. It is a blazed trail through the northern part of the state with multiple stream crossings. A full thru-hike is considered to be 165 miles, with 254 miles being the full proposed (and possible) route.

Region: Middle South (Arkansas)
Length: 165 – 254 miles (10-18 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• Creek and river crossings ebb and flow with the weather
• The trail is moderately graded
• The climbs and descents are short

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• No permits needed
• Both termini are hard to access
• Resupplies can be tough

Season: Fall, Winter, Spring

Hiking the Ozark Highlands Trail

The Ozark Highlands Trail is a route through northern Arkansas that follows the spine of the Ozark Mountains from east to west.

The trail is white-blazed along most of its route and is fairly straightforward to follow. There is also a FarOut guide. Compared with the Ouachita Trail, there are not as many signs or markers, but for the first chunk, every mile is signed.

The trees are deciduous with small groups of pine and the weather is temperate and mild. On my thru-hike I saw deer, elk, and porcupine. Locals also spoke of small black bears in the Ozarks. It is a peaceful environment that is far removed from any towns. This also makes the resupply strategy more difficult than comparable trails.

One big factor on the Ozark Highlands Trail is the water. There are numerous crossings every day, an abundance of waterfalls, and little need to have more than a 2-liter capacity. I thru-hiked this trail in February, which is one of the wetter times of the year, but water seems to flow year-round based on many of the online comments and water sources on maps.

The Ozark Highlands Trail is not finished, and there are two distinct sections with the opportunity to connect them as I did. The first 165 miles to the Buffalo River at Woolum are largely considered an entire thru-hike, but there is a decent section for 40 more miles to Dillards Ferry at Highway 14 that I was able to easily complete. From there, it was a 20-mile slog of bushwhacking, looking for a trail, and following gravel roads to get to the Sylamore section of the trail. The east end of the trail was beautiful and my 254-mile route ended at Matney Knob Trailhead.

How to Get to the Ozark Highlands Trail

Western Terminus: Fort Smith State Park, Arkansas
Closest City: Fort Smith (1 hour)

Eastern Terminus: Matney Knob Trailhead, Arkansas, or Woolum Campground, Arkansas
Closest City: Mountain Home, Arkansas (20 minutes)

I hiked this trail eastbound and was able to get a ride to the trailhead from a friend, but there is a very active Facebook group and numerous resources for getting to the trail on the Ozark Highlands Trail Association website.

Ozark Highlands Trail Western Terminus

From Fort Smith, Arkansas, it’s a 40-minute drive to Lake Fort Smith State Park

Ozark Highlands Trail Eastern Terminus

The trail ends abruptly at either Woolum or Matney Knob Trailhead (depending on where you conclude your thru-hike). Mountain Home is the largest city of any kind, but transportation can be tricky. I was able to hitch across the state to Fayetteville but there are also some bus options and the opportunity to rent a car to get to a major city. I found hitching to be fairly simple in Arkansas.

When to Hike the Ozark Highlands Trail / Which Direction

The Ozark Highlands Trail fits snuggly into the shoulder seasons when the weather is tamer in Arkansas and without the sticky heat and humidity that the region experiences during the summer. A generally equal split hike the trail in the early spring and the fall, with the season lasting a few months twice a year.

The trail can be hiked year-round, but a number of factors ranging from bugs to floods to cold weather make the February to April and October to November timeframes the most popular. In late February it snowed on me and the rivers were swollen after a rainstorm. The weather can be inclement, and despite the lack of true elevation the terrain can be rugged.

Most thru-hikers start at Lake Fort Smith State Park and travel eastbound because it is fairly easy to get a ride to and makes the logistics work a little better. The two possible termini on the east side are both remote and difficult.

Ozark Highlands Trail Terrain

The Ozark Highlands Trail is very much under the canopy of deciduous trees, but there are a number of views as the oscillating elevation brings you up and down numerous mountains. The trail is rocky with mud, waterfalls, and numerous stream crossings. Compared with the drier Ouachita Trail to the south, the Ozark Highlands Trail has a lot more dependable water.

Ozark Highlands Trail Resupply

Resupply can be complicated on the OHT. There are no major towns nearby, and the roads cutting through the mountains are lightly traveled. But with a couple of longer carries the trail can be thru-hiked without going hungry.

Resupply 1, Ozone, Arkansas
Mile 68

A tiny Burger Barn that accepts thru-hiker packages is only 2 miles off the trail. The other option at this crossing of Highway 21 is Clarksville. If you can manage the long carry from here to Woolum, the simplest way to thru-hike the Ozark Highlands Trail is to only resupply at this location.

Resupply 2, Highway 65
Mile 205

If you are hiking the full (proposed) length of the trail, Highway 65 is well-traveled and can provide access to a Dollar General in St. Joe. It is a fairly easy hitch and is the only real relevant resupply option for the second half of the lesser-traveled section of the trail.

Logistics: Camping and Water

Camping: Camping is dispersed and plentiful on the OHT. There are a number of flat spots, and FarOut has a number of waypoints marked as potential spots to set up a tent.

Water: There is so much water on the Ozark Highlands Trail that flooding can be an issue. Especially in the Hurricane Creek section, the water crossings can swell substantially when it rains. Keep an eye on the weather and the current levels of the rivers and creeks.

Ozark Highlands Trail: Know Before You Go

Weather: Shoulder season hiking comes with variable weather. I experienced rain, snow, and sunshine in late February. The weather was in the 70s one day and dipped below 20 the next. Packing the gear to weather any potential conditions is highly recommended.

Ozark Highlands Trail Resources

Ozark Highlands Trail Association

Ozark Highlands Trail Guide – Book

Ozark Highland Trail Facebook

The post Ozark Highlands Trail appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

The Big SEKI Loop is a 155-mile loop in the High Sierra in California that can be modified in multiple ways. The route was created originally as an alternative to the John Muir Trail and can be hiked in 7-17 days.

Region: Pacific West (Sequoia-Kings Canyon National Park, California)

Distance: ~155 miles with options to modify (7-17 days) 

Physical Difficulty: Difficult 

• Steep climbs 
• Rugged, less maintained trail 
• Potential extreme weather

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Permits required; availability varies based on starting location 
• Loop trail with option to modify mileage
• Potential long food carries, with ability to resupply 

Season: Summer
Elevation (average): ~8,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: ~36,000 feet

Hiking the Big SEKI Loop 

The Big SEKI Loop was designed as an alternative to the popular John Muir Trail. Created by Amy and James of Doing Miles, using 58 miles of the JMT, a portion of the High Sierra Trail, and other less-known trails in Sequoia-Kings Canyon National Park, it covers some of the most spectacular views, and difficult climbs the park has to offer. When hiking the more popular established trails, signage, trail maintenance/markers, and water supply are rarely a concern. The less-traveled sections are full of bushwhacking while walking in ankle-deep water. Cairn finding is common heading up non-JMT passes, as are days without seeing other people. Regardless of what part of the trail, the climbs are often steep. Afternoon thunderstorms can be a fact of life. Snow and ice are possible in the earlier or later parts of the season, considering the trail reaches 13,100 feet elevation at Forester Pass. 

The loop can be started from inside the national park at Roads End, or from Onion Valley via Kearsarge Pass (adding 14 miles round trip), and can be traveled in either direction. Starting location/direction will influence permit logistics and resupply needs. I chose to start from Roads End, heading clockwise. This allowed me an easier-to-obtain permit and more options for modification if I needed to cut my hike short, and I was able to go with the flow of the majority of traffic on the JMT. Besides my extra miles to resupply I never had to leave the backcountry. 

The hike can be modified into a figure-8, or a northern and southern loop section, both loops being 80-90 miles. You can also choose your adventure regarding which pass to connect the loop. If you want to cut the loop in half, you can utilize the Bubbs Creek Trail, which runs almost directly across the center of the loop. This allows for flexibility in resupply options if you’d like to do shorter food carries/shorter mileage days/take on the adventure in sections. You can use Colby Pass for a shorter loop (~130 miles) or Elizabeth Pass (~155 miles) for the longer loop, both connecting back through Avalanche Pass and to Roads End. 

For logistical purposes, I’ll refer to things in the way I encountered them. Going clockwise, from Roads End, taking Elizabeth Pass, and back to Roads End.

The climb out of Roads End with a week’s worth of food was brutal, starting just as an afternoon storm rolled in.  Then the trail disappears … both off the map and in front of you. After Granite Pass, the only people I saw were NPS employees doing backcountry work. They asked if I was hiking the Big SEKI Loop or the Sierra High Route, as those are typically the only hikers they encountered. They also warned of an upcoming dry section. From here, the trail was short on switchbacks, and I was unable to gain much purchase. Water was also inaccessible until reaching the creek in Simpson Meadow.

It begins to flatten out in Simpson Meadow before reaching a junction, then quickly becomes overgrown on its way to join the JMT.  Water was flowing down the trail—the section I was warned “the trail is a creek.”

Once you connect with the JMT, the trail is more maintained and more traveled as it begins to climb the Golden Staircase heading for Mather Pass. This is followed by Pinchot, Glen, and Forester passes before leaving the JMT where it meets the High Sierra Trail (HST) at Wallace Creek. Sharing the trail with the HST, you descend into Junction Meadow, which is where you can shorten your trip by taking Colby Pass, or you can continue down the valley, following the river until Kern Hot Spring—a nice camping or lunch spot. You’ll find a cement tub—big enough for two if you’re friendly—with hot water piped in next to the raging Kern River. Note that this location burned in 2020 during the Rattlesnake fire. The privy, food storage lockers, and tub all survived thanks to the firefighters.

From Kern Hot Spring the trail quickly gains elevation toward Moraine Lake, or Upper Funston Meadow. If I was ready to camp, Moraine Lake would be my choice. Either direction, you end up back on the HST heading for Big Arroyo. The climb from Big Arroyo is slow and steady up toward Kaweah Gap, and Precipice Lake, made famous by Ansel Adams. The colors of this lake are incredible, and it offers a few rocky camping locations for those who need it.

For a less technical set-up, continue toward Hamilton Lakes. A popular backcountry destination, Hamilton Lakes has incredible scenery but limits the stay to one night. There is a privy located here, and be sure to tuck away trekking poles, sweaty clothing, and gear the deer may chew on.

Shortly after descending from Hamilton Lakes, the trail turns to leave the HST and follows the trail toward Elizabeth Pass. There is not much in the way of camp spots until you reach the turnoff for Tamarack Lake about 3.5 miles before Elizabeth Pass. Here is another area that sees much less trail work. It is often overgrown, and marked solely by cairns getting closer to the pass. Once over the pass, follow granite switchbacks into Deadman’s Canyon. This was possibly one of my favorite parts on the trail, and I shared it with no one.

Once out of the glaciated canyon, you arrive at the backcountry Roaring River Ranger Station. This is where the Colby Pass variation reconnects. From here the signage is pretty clear directing you to Avalanche Pass, another pass mostly marked by rock cairns. When descending, keep an eye out for some of the more impressive trail work I’ve ever seen in the Sierra.

Utilizing the Bubbs Creek Trail, the descent comes quickly until you are just miles from Roads End.

*At the time of this writing in fall 2021 there are wildfires in the park, adjacent to portions of the trail the loop utilizes. Further burn scars may overlap this loop as a result. 

Big SEKI Loop Permits

Permits are required for backcountry travel within Sequoia/Kings Canyon. The starting location impacts who issues your permit. They are $5 per person, and usually have a recreation/reservation fee of around $10. 

The reservations for permits open on a six-month rolling window. (Permits for July 25 open January 25). Whether you need one from the national park or the US Forest Service, both can be found on Recreation.gov. Permits from the national park side can be reserved six months to one week before the start of your hike. The permit will need to be picked up in person by the leader or designated alternate listed on the reservation, from the ranger station before the start of your hike.

You’ll be asked for an itinerary, though the park does not hold you to it, and you are allowed to modify when obtaining your permit. The website may require you to list the first night of camping to book your reservation. A limited number of walk-up permits may be issued to hikers without reservations on a first-come, first-served basis. 

From mid-May to late September, trailhead entries are quota-based. During non-quota season, permits are still obtained similarly, just without limits on the number of people starting on any given day. 

If you start from Roads End, going clockwise you would need a permit starting from Copper Creek. There is often availability for walk-ups. This trailhead is mostly used for people hiking this loop, or for hikers to access the Sierra High Route. 

If you want to go counterclockwise, you need a Bubbs Creek permit. This is much more coveted as it is a starting location for the Rae Lakes Loop, a popular backpacking loop in Kings Canyon. 

If you want to start from Onion Valley, you need a permit for Kearsarge Pass from the US Forest Service. 

How to Get to the Big SEKI Loop 

Nearest City to Western Trailhead: Fresno, California (90 miles) 

Nearest City to Eastern Trailhead: Independence, California (14 miles)

Trailhead / Roads End ($35 entry fee per car; entrance pass)

Trailhead / Onion Valley 

Since the loop can be accessed from either side of the Sierra Nevada, there are technically two trailheads. Onion Valley is a short drive off US Highway 395, while Roads End is a long and winding road that takes you deep into the park until you dead-end at the ranger station. You are allowed to park long-term at both locations without a fee. This makes it easy to park your car and simply hike back to it. If you prefer to not leave a car, public transportation can get you into Independence, and a hitch or shuttle can take you up to the campground at Onion Valley.

If heading for Roads End, follow State Route180 until it dead-ends at the ranger station. After picking up your permit, the trail begins just behind the ranger station, climbing upward toward Copper Creek. You have to reach Tent Meadow before you are allowed to set up camp, about 5 miles into the hike. The climb from Roads End feels practically straight up, from 5,000 feet to 11,000 feet over 11 miles. 

When to Hike the Big SEKI Loop 

Summer is the best time to hike the Big SEKI Loop. With passes often at or above 11,000 feet, snow and icy conditions are likely during shoulder season attempts. Late or early- season snowfall is possible. June may have lingering snow, July is the peak for wildflowers (and mosquitoes), and in August both flowers and bugs are declining. Fall foliage is possible to spot in September. It’s important to note the park has had fire closures and restrictions starting in mid to late summer for the past several years.

Summer in the Sierra Nevada generally means midday thunderstorms, so setting yourself up to be over passes early in your day will be the safest bet. Crowding can be a consideration on parts that the trail that share the hiker superhighway of the JMT/PCT, and there are often areas that restrict camping for the sake of restoration. It’s not a concern on less-traveled sections of this trail.

Big SEKI Loop Trail Terrain 

The sections of trail on the JMT are well-maintained, from aspen forests to granite staircases snaking through mountain passes. The burn scar in the Kern Valley is short but harsh. The climb from Copper Creek is steep and strenuous. Some of the passes are marked almost entirely by rock cairns, or the trail has been completely overgrown. Where it isn’t overgrown, it is likely washed out. Repairs for blowouts or downed bridges potentially take all hiking season or longer. Some water crossings have built-in structures to cross, others do not or they have been washed out. These crossings can be dangerous during high snow years or any time the water current is strong. The last few miles to a pass may be lacking water sources late in the season or in dry years. 

Big SEKI Loop Resupply Strategy 

It’s possible to do the trail in a single food carry depending on how fast you hike, and how much food you need to bring. One big caveat: it all needs to fit in a park-approved bear canister. If you want to resupply for your hike you have a few options. The two trailhead options lie roughly halfway through the loop, making it an obvious resupply. If you have a very kind friend, they might be willing to hike in to deliver your food. 

Mule-packing companies can bring a resupply to you on the trail, and there are businesses in Independence that will accept your mail drop. These companies sometimes offer rides to and from the trailhead. It is an additional 14 miles round trip from the trail to Onion Valley trailhead. It’s possible to send something general delivery mail to Independence, get a hitch into town, and back to the trailhead, and I was offered a ride into town quickly.

I would recommend sending a mail drop, as the town is small and doesn’t offer much in the way of grocery stores. Local options include a food mart and gas stations that carry typical hiker food as well as fuel. The closest town to get a full-sized chain grocery store resupply in would be Bishop, 40 miles away. 

If you start in Onion Valley, you could bribe someone to bring you a resupply at Roads End but logistically it might be easier to just double back using Bubbs Creek to create a figure 8, back to Onion Valley (and your car if you left it there) to resupply yourself. 

I resupplied with Mt. Williamson Motel, sending my bucket ahead. They have the option of staying overnight at the motel, or they can pick you up from the trailhead, drive you to the town where your mail is waiting, and drop you back off at Onion Valley later that evening. 

Logistics: Camping, Permits, Land Management, Water, Gear

Camping and Permits: You need a backcountry permit—issued from the Forest Service or the national park depending on point of entry—for the entirety of the trail. Your reservation is not the permit. The permit will be issued by the rangers the day before or the day of your hike. The cost is $5 per person, and often a recreation/reservation fee of $6-$10. 

You also need a free California CampFire permit if you plan to use your stove or have any open flame on the trail. These can be obtained online after watching a short video and taking a quiz. 

Camping along trails is permitted at established campsites 200 feet from the water. If they are established sites within 25-100 feet of water, Sequoia-Kings Canyon allows you to camp there. There are certain lakes or areas that have either night limit restrictions or restrict camping entirely for restoration. These are marked by signs on the trail and in those locations. It’s unlikely you’ll find an enjoyable campsite the last mile before a pass. 

What Type of Land: All of the Big SEKI Loop is national park land, with the exception being if you enter or resupply through Kearsarge Pass to Onion Valley.

Water: Water is plentiful on the sections of the JMT/PCT, and most of the HST. There are a few longer carries that the park service warned me about. It can be dry coming over Granite Basin after leaving Copper Creek. After leaving Dougherty Creek, it’s very dry until Simpson Meadow. You then follow a water source to the JMT. Once you leave the HST for either Elizabeth Pass or Colby Pass, it would be best to fill up. The water sources are often dry the last 3 miles to the pass and are sometimes dry for a while on the other side. I took Elizabeth Pass, and there was a 4-mile carry in July when I hiked. 

Special Gear: A bear canister is required. All of your food and scented items must fit inside. I utilized a sun umbrella and found it helpful on the exposed climbs. It also came in handy during the daily thunderstorms that occurred. Bring some form of rain gear, just in case. I enjoyed having water shoes for when the trail turned into a creek, or when having to cross one of the many river inlets. 

Know Before You Go

Wildlife: Bears are present on the trail, so adequate park-approved storage containers are a must. 

Weather: Be prepared for all weather conditions, and assume thunder and lightning storms will occur during summer afternoons.

Water Crossings: Always take the time to find appropriate crossings across creeks and rivers if there isn’t a secured bridge. 

Fire Season: Be aware of fire or smoke conditions for later summer hikes. 

Not for the Faint of Heart: This is not a trail I’d recommend for beginners or people uncomfortable with some wayfinding. It isn’t an easy stroll, and the trail when well maintained is steep, rugged, and difficult hiking. The less-maintained trail is steep, rugged, overgrown, eroded, or not well-marked. The parts that share popular trails are well-trafficked, creating a safety net. However, the lesser-known parts of the park you get to explore, I often saw no one, or sometimes more trail crew workers than fellow backpackers. This is probably good since in places the trail is very overgrown. I don’t want to sound discouraging for anyone who wishes to attempt the loop—it’s been one of my favorite backpacking trips to date. I just want to be transparent on what to anticipate. 

Plan to Pick Up Your Permit in Person: Your online reservation is not your permit; an official permit will be issued at the time of pickup. The afternoon before, or on the start date. Most offices close by 3 p.m. If you plan to pick up from Roads End the day before your hike, account for a lot of drive time.  Information regarding pickup procedures was sent to me a week or so before my start date.

Fees: Entry into national parks is $35 per car, in addition to your backcountry permit fee. Or free with an America the Beautiful Pass. Backcountry permit fees are paid at the time of reservation.

Big SEKI Loop Resources

National Park Service SEKI

Permits from NPS 

Permits from USFS (Onion Valley)

Mt Williamson Motel and Basecamp  

Eastern Sierra Transit for public transportation on the eastern side 

Molly Boyer (She/They) lives and recreates most often in California. She enjoys solo backpacking, as well as showing people the joy of backpacking for the first time. When not hiking they can likely be found swimming in a mountain lake, doing aerial arts, or just cuddling with their dogs. You can follow along for future outdoor adventures and some blasts from the past on Instagram @MountainsWithMolly 

The post Big SEKI (Sequoia/Kings Canyon) Loop appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

The Cohos Trail is a 170 mile point-to-point trail from the United States/Canadian border in New Hampshire south to Crawford Notch. Along the trail, hikers will find maintained shelters, White Mountain National Forest tent sites, and hiker-friendly campgrounds. It is routinely hiked SOBO or NOBO in 10-16 days. 

Region: New England (New Hampshire)
Distance: 170 miles (10-16 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Weather changes in the White Mountains must be monitored
• Rocky climbs in the southern third of the trail
• Cumulative elevation makes for near-continuous climbing and descending

Logistical Difficulty: Difficult

• Northern and southern termini are separated by a 2.5-hour car ride; shuttles are often utilized for a car drop
• Minimal resupply options. Mail or in-person drop-offs should be utilized to minimize pack weight
• No permit required; parking must be paid for if leaving a vehicle at the Davis Path Trailhead (southern terminus in Crawford Notch)

Season: Summer, Fall
Elevation (average): ~2,300 feet
Total Elevation Gain: ~33,000 feet

Hiking the Cohos Trail

The Cohos Trail was first envisioned in 1978 by founder Kim Robert Nilsen. The trail network was eventually realized with the help of private, state, and federal landowners and the hard work of countless volunteers.  Its intention was to give access to the far northern reaches of New Hampshire.  This trail has been a bucket list item of mine for some time, having been an avid White Mountains hiker for years.

I started my hike the second week of August with the intention of avoiding the worst of the bugs and the heat.  I successfully dodged the insects, but the heat became another story as a heat wave built during my hike. Given the ever-changing weather of the north, I packed for a variety of conditions.  I started my hike at the northern terminus, reveling in the sight of the international border markings along the trail as I looped the Fourth Connecticut Lake, the official start miles of the Cohos Trail.

As I worked my way south, I was pleasantly surprised to find yellow markers and signs lining much of the trail and intersections.  The Cohos Trail Association works each year to make navigation a bit easier.  I did refer to my SOBO Databook, the paper map and my Avenza app frequently throughout the trip as the trail shares terrain with snowmobile passages, ATV trails, local trails, and eventually White Mountain National Forest trails.

I spent 8 days reveling in the beauty of this trail, hiking into the White Mountain National Forest on day 7. At this point, I was paying close attention to the higher summit forecast as I would be hiking the southern, exposed flank of the Presidential Range in the days to come. The remnants of a tropical storm affected my decision to get off trail and come back in drier and safer conditions. The weather in the WMNF is volatile year round and hikers should be prepared and respect the forecast.

Nonetheless, this trail delivered in its remote nature, friendly town environment (the locals love hikers) and varied terrain. I will hike this trail again, most likely by section to see what I missed along the way. This trail requires hikers to be fit and comfortable carrying additional gear. This is not safe for “light and fast” under most conditions. Some nights on trail, I was sleeping under only the mesh portion of my tent, while other nights required the rain fly, long underwear, and my quilt. This is part of what makes this trail such an adventure.

How to Get to the Cohos Trail

Nearest City: Pittsburg at the northern terminus and Bartlett at the southern terminus

Northern Terminus: US Port of Entry/Fourth Connecticut Lake Trail

Southern Terminus: Davis Path Trailhead

Hikers who prefer to hike from the northern terminus at the US/Canadian border usually leave a car at the Davis Path Trailhead in Bartlett, then shuttle to the start. That way you have a car waiting at the end.  This was my choice, so I paid a shuttle driver to take me from Bartlett to Pittsburg and drop me at the border patrol station. The Cohos Trail starts behind the station. I hired Maura from Maura at Your Service.  Shuttles are pricey (around $220.00) as the ride is approximately 2 1/2 hours from terminus to terminus. That said, I didn’t have to bother a friend or family member to deal with the car drop situation. 

Hikers wishing to start at the southern terminus and end at the border may leave cars at the border patrol station with permission and a note on the dash.  Be prepared for no cell service at both termini.  I recommend having your plans for a ride or shuttle well established before you start.

When to Hike the Cohos Trail

The best time to hike this trail is after black fly season. This tiny insect can ruin a hike in June and early July. Hike this trail in July and August if you only have warm weather backpacking gear. Hike it in September if you want to see the beginnings of an amazing foliage season in the far north.  This trail can be hiked later in the season, however winter gear (warmer sleep system, microspikes, winter clothing) should be carried. The average temperature in Pittsburg in October at low elevation is 53 degrees.  

Cohos Trail Terrain 

The Cohos Trail is a mix of snowmobile trails (essentially wide grassy ways, some have been trimmed by caretakers), dirt trails shared with ATVs, jeep roads, forested single track, and rocky mountain trails. There really is a little something for everyone out here. The northern 100 miles have the easiest terrain (but still lots of ups and downs) while you will start experiencing more rocks and roots once you pass into the Nash Stream Forest and White Mountain National Forest. The highest point on the trail is Mt. Eisenhower (accessed by a .1 mile spur trail) and you will be in the true alpine zone here. There is a “high peaks” option for the Cohos, taking you along the Southern Presidential Range to Mt. Washington. Here you will experience breathtaking views of the Whites, but be prepared for being exposed to the elements all day.

Cohos Trail Resupply Strategy 

Most hikers choose to send themselves at least one resupply box during this hike. The private campgrounds, Percy Lodge, and Stark Village Inn will accept resupply boxes as long as you contact them first, as does the Jefferson post office.  There is only one “on trail” resupply option in the first 100 miles at Young’s General Store in Pittsburg.  After that, it’s a long push to the Old Corner Store in Jefferson  and the Bretton Woods Market & Deli where you can resupply.  A hitch is hard to grab in the northern part of the state simply due to lack of traffic. Hitches to Colebrook are possible if you are patient.  Here you will find a grocery store and restaurants.  Expect to lose a half day on this option.

I started my hike with a five-day food carry. You can do a full resupply at Young’s, plus grab fresh fruit or a sub. I collected my resupply at the Percy Lodge and Campground in Stark, about 1.2 miles off trail. I had a room booked here and had mailed the owner, Kathleen, my box the week before.  She was starting a hiker box too!  Once you are done with the Kilkenny Ridge, you could completely resupply in Jefferson and Bretton Woods if you aren’t picky.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water, and Gear

Permits:  The Cohos Trail is located on private, state, and federal forest land.  Permits are not required, however there are certain camping rules that MUST be adhered to in order to keep this trail accessible to the public.

Camping: This trail is on WMNF federal land from the southern terminus through the Kilkenny Ridge (South Pond in Stark).  You may use dispersed campsites on this section.  Visit the PDF on Backcountry Camping Rules for full details on finding your own non-established campsite.  The only exception in this area is the Pondicherry Wildlife Refuge in Jefferson.

North of South Pond in Stark, you must camp in designated areas only.  This includes the Cohos Trail Association Shelters, established campgrounds, and tent sites.  A complete list can be found on the Cohos Trail Association Places to Stay Along the Trail page.

I utilized a combination of shelters and campgrounds for my hike.  I stayed at Deer Mountain Campground, Lake Francis Campground, Rudy’s Campground, Panorama Shelter, Old Hermit Shelter, Percy Lodge, Unknown Pond tent site, and Israel River Campground.  I have also stayed south of Mt. Martha by following the backcountry campsite rules. Most campgrounds have quarter showers and laundry. The tent site and shelters I stayed at all had well-maintained privies. 

Water: Water can be found by using the Cohos Trail map.  I found many of the water sources on the map were in fact running (albeit slowly) despite the drought being experienced in this area.  My longest water carries (3Ls) were up to Panorama Shelter and from Unknown Pond tent site to Jefferson Village.  The Kilkenny Ridge and Davis Path are notoriously dry so do not fail to fill up at Unknown Pond or Dry River.  The SOBO and NOBO databooks, available as a PDF that I uploaded to my phone, were invaluable for knowing where my next reliable water source was located. I filtered water for my entire trip. 

Know Before You Go

 The Cohos Trail is a phenomenal adventure for those seeking to step away from the crowds.  It is not unusual to be alone for days at a time. I spent one of 8 days with two other SOBO hikers.  I did start to see day hikers as I came into Jefferson, but the region north of here is largely unexplored by backpackers and day hikers alike.  Navigation is getting better, but I found the Avenza app and maps an invaluable tool many times at intersections.  Ultimately, this trail is worth the logistical planning if you are seeking solitude.

Cohos Trail Resources

Cohos Trail Association – Visit their Facebook page for the most up-to-date information

White Mountain National Forest Camping 

Hiker-friendly campgrounds:

Percy Lodge and Campground

Rudy’s Campground (hiker camp area and amazing sunsets)

Lake Francis Campground

Israel River Campground

Shuttle Service: Maura at Your Service

Avenza App – Cohos Trail map is available for use offline

Heather is a lifelong outdoors woman, exploring trails as a child and young adult on horseback.  She transitioned to hiking, backpacking, and ultra running in the last 8 years and is eager to continue exploring.  Her “playground” is the White Mountains of New Hampshire and trails throughout New England.  When not exploring, she enjoys photography, writing, and spending time with her people and animals. Follow her on Instagram.

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The Loyalsock Trail is a 59.2-mile point-to-point hike in north-central Pennsylvania that spans forested ridges, scenic streams, and historic logging roads. The trail features over a dozen waterfalls and can be hiked in 4-6 days.

Region: Mid-Atlantic (Loyalsock State Forest, Pennsylvania)
Distance: 59.2 miles, 4-6 days

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• Steep, sudden ascents
• Rocky and muddy trail
• Easy but frequent stream crossings

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

• No permit required
• Point-to-point trail (shuttle service available)
• Plentiful water sources

Season: Spring, Summer, Early Fall

Elevation (average): ~1,500 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 12,000 feet

Hiking the Loyalsock Trail

The Loyalsock Trail highlights the best of Pennsylvania hiking: vistas, waterfalls, streams, and regional history. The trail immediately starts off with a bang, gaining 1,200 feet in elevation from the western terminus to about mile 2.5. The ascent is a taste of what’s to come on this challenging but rewarding hike, which is well-blazed with yellow disks and mile markers.

The toughest climbs are clustered in the western half, and the trail grows easier and more beautiful as you head northeast. We hiked at the end of June and found the initial 12-15 miles to be quite overgrown with grass, ferns, stinging nettle, and rhododendron. Smith Knob gives you the first panoramic view of the Loyalsock Valley shortly after mile 6, a welcome break following another brief but heel-busting climb. From there you descend into a flat rhododendron tunnel and softer sections of pine and stream before a roadwalk skirting private land.

From mile 22 on, keep your eyes open for blue-blazed side trails so you don’t miss the waterfall views, and get ready to cross more streams as well. The largest water crossing is Kettle Creek, which was tame in early summer but potentially trickier in rainy spring months. Another crossing at Ketchum Run leads you to more waterfalls accessible by ladder or bypass trail. Rode Falls is maybe the best of the trip, with a swimmable basin at the bottom.

A couple of impressive vistas come after mile 35: Alpine View follows a rare switchback climb, and Loyalsock Canyon Vista is the first reward within Worlds End State Park. The state park section takes you down a rocky canyon, eventually passing a visitors center (there’s a snack shop nearby) and ending with a steep scramble up to High Rock Vista. Once back on state forest land after mile 47, the miles pass more quickly on old railroad grades and flat, muddy trail through the woods.

The trail saves the best for the end, winding along Loyalsock Creek. Don’t miss the chance to climb across and swim in The Haystacks around mile 57! These huge sandstone formations in the creek form pools where you can cool off. Before you ascend to the parking lot, there’s a waterfall finale at Dutchman Falls from one last blue-blazed detour.

How to Get to the Loyalsock Trail

Western Terminus: Loyalsock Trailhead off PA Route 87
Closest City: Williamsport, Pennsylvania (15 miles)

Eastern Terminus: Loyalsock Trailhead Dutchman Falls
Closest Cities: Williamsport, Pennsylvania (42 miles) or Wilkes-Barre, Pennsylvania (49 miles)

Driving and Shuttle: We drove two cars from Philadelphia (just under 3 hours travel) and parked one at the Dutchman Falls lot, where there are plenty of spaces—no overnight permit required. Then it was about a 40-minute drive to the western terminus, which is a smaller gravel pull-off that still provides space for multiple cars to park. If you prefer to drive one car, The Alpine Club of Williamsport lists a shuttle service on their website and also recommends connecting with local trail angels through the LT Public Facebook Group. 

When to Hike the Loyalsock Trail

Hike the trail in spring, summer, or early fall. Keep in mind that there are many stream crossings, which could be more difficult after snow melt or during rainy months. Avoid hiking during bear and deer hunting seasons from around Thanksgiving through most of December; you can find seasonal dates listed on the Pennsylvania Game Commission website.

Sample Itinerary: This is how we did it, purposely leaving just a few miles for the last day’s drive home. The western miles are more challenging, though, so you might consider allocating more miles on later days if hiking northeast.

Day 1: Western trailhead to Snake Run (10.5 miles)

Day 2: Snake Run to Dry Run (17.9 miles)

Day 3: Dry Run to Double Run after Worlds End Road crossing (11.2 miles)

Day 4: Double Run to Sones Pond (13.4 miles)

Day 5: Sones Pond to trailhead at Dutchman Falls (6.2 miles)

Loyalsock Trail Terrain

You’re in Pennsylvania, so expect lots of forest and rocky terrain. On old railroad grade sections, watch for large roots on trail. The hike is constantly climbing steeply and then descending into valleys just as quickly, so do not expect winding switchbacks like you’d find out West. Many of the flat sections are either muddy or overgrown with vegetation, but that will largely be determined by the time of year you go.

Logistics: Permits, Land Designation and Camping, and Open Fires

Permits: No permit is necessary to hike the Loyalsock Trail, but it is recommended that you provide emergency information and dates on trail to Loyalsock State Forest if you’re hiking for multiple days.

Land Designation and Camping: This trail is mostly on state forest land where primitive camping is permitted; however, there are a couple brief stretches that cross private land where camping is not allowed. Also, if you would like to camp within Worlds End State Park (mile 42.77 until just after mile 47), you must reserve a designated site in advance. There are no shelters on trail but established primitive campsites are frequent and well-outlined in a detailed guidebook published annually by The Alpine Club of Williamsport (highly recommend getting one!).

Open Fires: No open fires are allowed on Loyalsock Trail between March 1 and May 25, Oct. 1 and Dec. 1, or any time fire danger is posted as high. Open fires are never permitted on private land or at any point from mile 55.33 through the parking lot at the eastern trailhead.

Know Before You Go

Overgrowth: In less-traveled western parts of the trail you should expect dense rhododendron, overgrown grass, and other vegetation. Definitely use some form of bug protection and check regularly for ticks!

Bears: Loyalsock State Forest is black bear territory, so follow regular precautions and you’ll have no problems. Be sure to properly hang or store your food overnight.

Loyalsock Trail Resources

Alpine Club of Williamsport

Pennsylvania DCNR – Loyalsock State Forest

Worlds End State Park

Loyalsock Trail Facebook Group

BIO

Leah Wynalek is a writer, hiker, and runner from Philadelphia. She loves the green tunnel of Pennsylvania trails and will never stop being enchanted by the lush ferns. Find her on Instagram for cats and outdoor adventures. 

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The Collegiate Peaks Loop is a breathtaking 160-mile loop trail that circles the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness in central Colorado. The route traverses challenging terrain at high elevations and can be completed in as few as 9 days or up to three weeks, with many opportunities for side hikes and gorgeous views. 

Region: Mountain West (San Isabel, Pike, Gunnison National Forests, Central Colorado)
Distance: 161 miles (plus optional miles on side trails)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Cumulative elevation gain of ~39,000 feet 
• High average elevation, with altitudes ranging between 8,000 and 12,600 feet 
• Steep ascents and descents 

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Loop trail with several resupply opportunities
• Both the Continental Divide Trail and Colorado Trail are well-marked and easy to follow 
• Long sections of trail above treeline in Collegiate West
• Narrow weather window

Season: Summer

Elevation (average): ~11,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: ~39,000 feet

Hiking the Collegiate Peaks Loop

Permits: There is a free trailhead permit when you enter the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness. 

The Collegiate Peaks Loop (CPL) is a challenging, beautiful route, divided into the Collegiate East and West sections. Historically, Collegiate East has been part of the Colorado Trail (CT), and Collegiate West part of the Continental Divide Trail (CDT), with the two connecting at Twin Lakes Reservoir in the north and Monarch Crest in the south. Ambitious, fit, altitude-acclimated hikers on a time crunch can attempt the trail in as little as 8-10 days by walking an average of 18 miles a day. In order to make the most of the many side trails and vistas, more relaxed travelers should plan on taking 2-3 weeks. 

I recommend tackling Collegiate East first, especially if you haven’t spent time at altitude. This section is mostly below treeline, ranges between 8,000 and 11,500 feet, and has slightly less elevation gain than the western half. Collegiate West is almost entirely above 10,000 feet and has expansive above-treeline sections, making for greater risk of afternoon thunderstorms but rewarding vistas. Those with more time and ambition can explore numerous side hikes along the way, including several popular mountains above 14,000 feet (14ers). 

Most people coming from Denver will start and end at Twin Lakes Reservoir. Hikers walk on the shared CDT and CT on the edge of the reservoir and soon reach the intersection where the two trails diverge. Continuing to the left and south on Collegiate East, hikers encounter aspen forests, streams, Clear Creek Reservoir, Harvard Lakes, and the trailheads for Mounts Harvard, Yale, Princeton, Antero, Shavano, and Tabeguache. There is one moderately unpleasant road walk starting at CT mile 226.6 and lasting about 6 miles, but the jaunt does take you past a potential resupply spot of Princeton Hot Springs Resort (and you can stop and enjoy the hot springs or a meal). 

Collegiate East and West meet on Monarch Ridge, which will be the first above-treeline section for hikers who started in the East. From now on, travelers will head west and north on the CDT. Monarch Crest General Store is another potential resupply spot and has an excellent ice cream selection. From here, hikers climb to the top of Monarch Ski Resort, descend to Boss Lake, and cross several passes above 12,000 feet, including Hancock Pass, Lake Ann Pass, and Hope Pass. Side trails on Collegiate West lead to Huron Peak and La Plata, both 14ers. Another flat section around Twin Lakes leads back to the intersection with the CT and then the trailhead.

How to Get to the Collegiate Peaks Loop

Hikers can start anywhere the trail crosses the road, the most popular choices being the Twin Lakes Reservoir on the northern edge of the loop and Monarch Crest at the southern. Twin Lakes is the closer option for those coming from Denver, but starting at Monarch Crest gives more time to acclimate to the altitude. A car can be left at either trailhead, and loop hikers will return to their car once finished. Currently, there is no access to these two trailheads via public transportation.

Nearest Cities to Twin Lakes: 
Denver International Airport (143 miles/ 2.5 hours)
Leadville, Colorado (16.6 miles/ 21 minutes)
Buena Vista, Colorado (20.8 miles/ 24 minutes)
Northern entry point on Route 25 at Twin Lakes Reservoir (Google Maps pin)

When to Hike the Collegiate Peaks Loop

This trail has a short weather window—consider it a summer trail with the possibility to finish up in very early fall. You’ll need to hike it after the snow melts in late June or early July, and finish before snow returns in October. August is a safe bet. I recommend checking local trail reports to make sure the 12,000 foot passes are snow-free. We encountered one frosty morning in early September, but were able to get by with summer sleeping bags (20-30 degrees). For anyone hiking after mid-September, warmer sleeping bags might be in order. If you’re using a water filter, you may want to sleep with it at night to keep it from freezing.

Collegiate Peaks Loop Terrain

Collegiate East is mostly below treeline on well-marked trails and a few Forest Service roads, with one 6-mile road walk. Collegiate West features long stretches of trail above treeline, making for great views but more risk during summer thunderstorm season. There are some rocky stretches on this section but nothing too difficult. Both East and West are well-blazed and require no route-finding, but we pulled out our maps at some intersections to check we were following the correct trail.

Collegiate Peaks Loop Trail Resupply Strategy 

The trail crosses the road and passes potential resupply stops at several locations. Our group was lucky, especially in the time of Covid-19, to have two friends in the area who brought us resupplies at predetermined spots. Depending on the length of your hike and how much you’re comfortable carrying, there are a few different options for Collegiate West. The most convenient resupply option for Collegiate West is a 30-minute hitch to Buena Vista via Cottonwood Pass. 

Mount Princeton Hot Springs: Hikers will pass by this resort on the one road walk at mile 114.6 on the CT. It has some snacks for purchase, will accept mail drops, and allows access to their hot springs for a fee. This is a good option for a first resupply on the Collegiate East side. 

Monarch Spur RV Park: The RV park accepts resupply boxes and is about one mile off the trail at CT mile 91.7, on the eastern side. There is a campsite here.  

Monarch Crest General Store: Also right on trail, the General Store is about halfway through the loop at the southern end. There are snacks to purchase (great ice cream!) and the store will accept mail drops. 

Cottonwood Pass West/ CPL Mile 35.7: County Road 306 / Cottonwood Pass is a frequently traveled road. The trail crosses this road twice, once each on Collegiate East and Collegiate West, and could provide a hitch to Buena Vista. This will be the most convenient place to resupply on all of Collegiate West. Hikers just starting out on Collegiate East may wish to resupply at Mount Princeton Hot Springs via a mail drop, right on the trail a bit farther down. The drive to Buena Vista from the western crossing is about 30 minutes / 18 miles.

Corruption Backcountry Outpost: Not currently open as of June 2021, but will be a potential resupply spot and hostel. 

Logistics: Camping, Navigation, Water

Navigation: Both halves of the trail are well-blazed with CT and/or CDT trail markers, but there were a few intersections where we pulled out maps to double-check the way. FarOut’s CT guide includes both Collegiate East and West, and there’s also a separate Collegiate Peaks Loop guide.

Water: Crowd-sourced comments left us with no worries about finding the next campsite or water source; both are abundant enough even later in the season that you can happen upon them easily.

Camping: The Collegiate Peaks Loop is mostly on National Forest land, so dispersed camping in well-used sites is the way to go. We looked ahead to about where we wanted to be at the end of each day and planned out a few campsite options based on FarOut.

Special Gear: Sun protection is vital. All members of our group were equipped with long-sleeved sun shirts, hats, sunglasses, and sunscreen. Light rain layers will be useful during brief, frequent afternoon thunderstorms. Temperatures drop at night, so be prepared with a down jacket, hat, gloves, fleece-lined pants, and a warm sleeping bag (20-degree is a safe bet), even during the height of the summer.

As for food storage, there are black bears to worry about, in addition to rodents like marmots, pika, and mice. Two members of our party hung their food each night but it was often a hassle to find the correct tree configuration to do so. I used an Ursack and had no issues, but have heard reports of bears chewing up the bag. The safest and easiest option is to use a bear canister. 

Know Before You Go

Think carefully about your fitness level, experience at altitude, and desire to hike side trails when planning out food and resupplies. This is already a challenging trail, and altitude makes everything harder. Err on the side of planning to hike more, shorter days so you can acclimate or explore a 14er or two. 

There are plenty of shorter options to explore this area. You can leave a car at both Twin Lakes and Monarch Crest and hike only Collegiate West, or set up a base camp on Collegiate East to hike nearby 14ers. 

Fires are usually banned all summer due to danger of wildfire, so plan on bringing a stove or cold soaking your meals. In the same vein, watch out for Forest Service alerts about closures due to fire or heavy smoke.

Make sure to bring a trowel to bury your poop 6-8 inches in the ground, at least 200 feet from the trail, water, or your camp. Plan to pack out all your toilet paper instead of burying it due to the dryness of the soil (it won’t decompose quickly). Pack out all other trash, too!

Collegiate Peaks Loop Additional Resources

The Colorado Trail Foundation’s guide 

FarOut Continental Divide Trail app

FarOut Colorado Trail app

CDT map set (free digital download)

Dru Falco (she/her) is an avid hiker, ultrarunner, and sunshine enthusiast. She caught the backpacking bug while in college in New Hampshire and has hiked 38% of all trail miles in the White Mountains. Dru drove out to Colorado from the East Coast in August 2020 planning to stay for a couple of months and hasn’t left. Currently, she’s working in outdoor education, section hiking the Colorado Trail, and running up as many mountains as possible. She posts a lot on Instagram @drus_iller. 

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The Uinta Highline Trail is a 104-mile high-elevation route with a high degree of physical difficulty but moderately easy logistics. It’s best hiked in the late summer/early fall, and can be accomplished in 5-10 days.

Region: Mountain West (Uinta Range, Utah) 
Distance: 104 miles (5-10 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Much of the trail is above 11,000 feet, with several passes over 12,000 feet 
• Weather in the Uinta is frequently stormy during the summer hiking window
• Some sections require attention to route finding

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Both termini, as well as those of alternates, are easily accessible though a shuttle is required for this point-to-point trail (3.5 hours, one-way)
• No permits are required for hiking in the Ashley or Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forests through the Uinta, though parking at the Highline Trailhead (western terminus) requires a self-serve parking permit ($12/7 days) or an America the Beautiful Federal Lands Pass must be displayed
• Hikers must be conscious of changing weather and high alpine conditions

Season: Summer, early Fall 
Average Elevation: 10,700 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 19,800 feet

Hiking the Uinta Highline Trail

The Uinta Highline is a 104-mile backpacking trail following the crest of the Uinta Range in Northeastern Utah from McKee Draw, off Highway 191 below Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area, west to the Mirror Lakes Highway. It takes you through Utah’s most scenic mountain terrain and highest peaks. Most of the trail is above treeline, which provides sweeping views and a consistent sense of awe as hikers travel over rocky passes, descend into lush basins, and glide by crystal blue alpine lakes. It will appeal to backpackers not looking for a serious time commitment, but still seeking solitude, big views, and rugged adventure, much of it off the beaten path. 

Starting from the eastern terminus at McKee Draw off Highway 191, hikers will experience anticipation for the vistas to come as much of the first 25 miles is densely forested and the trail is faint in some areas, criss-crossed with cattle tracks. Though generally well marked with cairns and occasional signage, hikers should pay close attention to navigation throughout this trail. The Uinta Highline becomes much more defined and easy to follow as it moves westbound. After 25 miles, hikers reach the Leidy Peak Trailhead and the beginning of the High Uinta (Alternate #1 would start hikers here for an ~80 mile trip, though with a longer shuttle). 

From there, the character of the trail changes from forest to high alpine. Massive peaks and ridges surround hikers as they move over eight passes over 11,000 feet that separate vast meadows, basins, and valleys carved by retreating glaciers. At mile 38, hikers reach Chepeta Dam Trailhead, which hikers could consider as Alternate #2. This alternate would leave a ~66-mile trip through the majority of the truly stunning terrain for hikers on a time crunch. From the trail’s high point at Anderson Pass (12,700 feet), it’s a quick 0.7-mile detour to King’s Peak, Utah’s highest point at 13,528 feet (Class 3 scramble).   

No permits are required for hiking the Uinta Highline Trail. To park at the western terminus at the Highline Trailhead, a self-serve parking permit is required ($12/7 days) or vehicles must display a valid America the Beautiful Federal Lands Pass. 

How to Get to the Uinta Highline Trail

Nearest City: Salt Lake City, Utah (78 miles from western terminus, 215 miles from eastern terminus). Closest towns to the termini are Vernal (eastern) and Kamas (western).

Western Terminus: Highline Trailhead near Hayden Pass
Eastern Terminus: McKee Draw

From Salt Lake City, it’s 215 driving miles to the eastern terminus of the Uinta Highline at McKee Draw, off Highway 191 between Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area and Vernal, Utah, and 78 miles to the western terminus at the Highline Trailhead along Mirror Lakes Highway. The shuttle between the trailheads is 3.5 hours each way. 

Shuttle: The simplest way to hike the Uinta Highline is to park a vehicle on either end and add half a day onto your itinerary for the shuttle. For locals in the Mountain West, this may involve bribing Salt Lake City friends with gas money and pizza. For those traveling to hike the Uinta Highline, there are shuttle services on the internet that can assist for a fee. The most reputable of these is Mountain Trails Transport (https://mountaintrailstransport.com/). 

Flying: Flying is an option into both Salt Lake City International Airport and Vernal Regional Airport (more expensive). A Greyhound bus travels daily between Salt Lake City and Denver, stopping in Vernal once per day, which may ease planning. From Vernal, hikers without ground transportation would need to hitchhike north on Highway 191 to McKee Draw (technically illegal in Utah, though straightforward in these areas). Hitchhiking to and from the western trailhead is even more straightforward and only requires catching a ride for the 29 miles between Kamas and the terminus. Kamas is connected by (free) bus to Park City and from there to Salt Lake City. 

When to Hike the Uinta Highline Trail

In an average snow year, the Uinta Highline is best hiked from mid-July to mid-September. Prior to mid-July, additional precautions may be necessary to account for lingering snowpack. After mid-September, winter could arrive any moment in the High Uinta. These dates are a good rule of thumb, but different years bring different snowpacks and hikers more comfortable with an ice axe may prefer hitting the trail sooner. July hikes will likely bring lingering snow, mosquito pressure, muddy trails, and daily thunderstorms. August hikes will lessen snow and mosquito pressure, but the storms remain. September brings far fewer thunderstorms, no bugs, but early season snow is always possible. Of additional note to out-of-season traversing plans, the Mirror Lakes Highway (western terminus) is closed from November to May each year. 

Uinta Highline Trail Terrain

Much of the Uinta Highline is above treeline and over 11,000 feet. Traveling westbound, the first 25 miles are mostly forested and dotted with meadows that are heavily grazed by cattle. The trail after passing Leidy Peak changes to high alpine. It travels over passes, crossing wide basins, valleys, and meadows between high points. Lower basins, like the one below Dead Horse Pass, are forested, whereas higher elevation basins, like Painter Basin, largely remain above treeline. The trail east of Leidy Peak is much fainter and requires attention to navigation while crossing heavily grazed meadows. Some of the passes are rocky, but the western three-quarters of the trail are mostly well-defined singletrack.

Logistics: Land Designation, Water, Special Gear, Permits

Land Designation: The Uinta Highline travels through the Ashley and Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forests with the western part of the trail contained within the High Uintas Wilderness. The U.S. Forest Service manages land under the Multiple Use mandate that allows activities like grazing and timber harvesting simultaneously with recreation. These activities are most pronounced on the Uinta Highline as it travels through the Ashley National Forest. After crossing into the High Uintas Wilderness, sheep grazing remains and it is a near certainty that hikers will encounter flocks of sheep. Designated wilderness is managed for a primitive and unconfined type of recreation and emphasizes solitude, which abounds on the UHT. Hikers should be respectful of one another and of the sensitive high-alpine terrain and follow Leave No Trace practice in activities such as campsite selection (camping only in already established campsites), human waste disposal (catholes at least 6 inches deep, pack out toilet paper, and consider portable waste containment bags though they are not a requirement), and respect for wildlife (the Uinta Range is black bear and moose territory and caution should be exercised in travel and food storage). Campfires are also prohibited in much of the alpine terrain of the UHT. If you plan on having fires, ensure you’re in a non-restricted area. A full list of wilderness regulations regarding fires, bear safety, group size, and other concerns can be found here.

Water: Water is plentiful over much of the trail as it passes by numerous lakes and creeks. However, do not expect water east of Leidy Peak, especially later in the season (first 25 miles, traveling westbound). West of Leidy Peak, it’s no concern. With the exception of the high passes, the UHT is heavily grazed by cattle and sheep so all water should be appropriately treated. 

Special Gear: Reliable rain gear is essential on the UHT as it receives daily thunderstorms over much of the summer hiking season. Early season hikers should consider gear such as microspikes and an ice axe, but unless it’s a particularly heavy snow year, these items shouldn’t be necessary after mid-July. If you’re on the fence about bringing this gear, focus your snow-level inquiry on the north side of Dead Horse Pass (a call to the Heber-Kamas Ranger District at 435-783-4338 should sort this out). Hikers should prepare for variable weather and temperature as well as have a firm knowledge of the route, and carry backup forms of navigation. Sun protection is essential on the UHT given its high average elevation. With a valid Utah fishing license, hikers may also want to consider bringing a fishing pole as the High Uinta has notoriously good fishing. 

Permits: No permits are required for hiking the Uinta Highline Trail. To park at the western terminus at the Highline Trailhead, a self-serve parking permit is required ($12/7 days) or vehicles must display a valid America the Beautiful Federal Lands Pass.

Know Before You Go

Keep an eye on the U.S. Forest Service announcements about wildfires in the area. Parts of the UHT were closed in late-August and September 2020 due to the active fire season. As with any high alpine travel, consideration of snow level and condition and abnormal weather patterns is essential. Ensure you’re geared up for snow and thunderstorms at any time of year and have well-communicated travel plans as cell service is nonexistent on the UHT (though there is Verizon signal on the summit of King’s Peak). Also be prepared for faint trail navigation, especially in the eastern section of the trail as it crosses meadows and open areas. Be aware of wildlife while hiking and camping as the Uinta Highline travels through black bear and moose territory. 

Resources

Information on Mirror Lakes Highway Recreation Passes

Shuttle service

On hitchhiking in Utah

Learn about wilderness designation

Information on bus travel:

https://www.parkcity.org/departments/transit-bus/routes-schedules

https://www.rideuta.com/Rider-Tools/Schedules-and-Maps/902-PC-SLC-Connect

https://www.greyhound.com/en-us/bus-from-salt-lake-city-to-vernal

Caleb Meyer (he/him) is a hiker and conservation social science researcher based in Northern Utah. In addition to countless hikes, backpacking trips, and other generous times in the outdoors, Caleb hiked the Pacific Crest Trail in 2019. In “the real world,” Caleb is a graduate researcher in the Institute of Outdoor Recreation and Tourism at Utah State University studying backcountry recreation, and works with the U.S. Forest Service on research related to National Scenic Trails. Prior to these roles, he worked in such places as Grand Teton National Park, Bears Ears National Monument, and Death Valley National Park. To follow adventures in backpacking and research, follow Caleb on Instagram: @topohikes. For research-specific questions, email at [email protected].

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