500-1000+ miles Archives - Backpacking Routes http://backpackingroutes.com/category/500-1000-miles/ Routes of the World Tue, 06 Dec 2022 17:01:22 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.2 https://i0.wp.com/backpackingroutes.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/cropped-BPR_icon_textured_4.jpg?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 500-1000+ miles Archives - Backpacking Routes http://backpackingroutes.com/category/500-1000-miles/ 32 32 184093932 Great Divide Trail https://backpackingroutes.com/great-divide-trail/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=great-divide-trail Fri, 01 Apr 2022 21:27:29 +0000 http://backpackingroutes.com/?p=6418 The Great Divide Trail is a 1,123km (697-mile) Canadian continuation of the Continental Divide Trail. It starts at the U.S.-Canada border at Waterton Lakes National Park and traverses the Canadian Rockies before ending at Kakwa Provincial Park. The Great Divide Trail typically takes around 50 days to thru-hike. 

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Austin Hager thru-hiked the Great Divide Trail in 2021

The Great Divide Trail is a 1,123km (697-mile) Canadian continuation of the Continental Divide Trail. It starts at the U.S.-Canada border at Waterton Lakes National Park and traverses the Canadian Rockies before ending at Kakwa Provincial Park, and typically takes around 50 days. 

Region: Mountain West, International (Canadian Rockies)
Distance: 697 miles (42-60 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult 

  • Large amounts of elevation change
  • Harsh, unpredictable weather
  • Off-trail travel, river crossings, areas with little trail maintenance

Logistical Difficulty: Difficult

  • Multiple permits required
  • Long sections with few resupplies
  • Some sections very remote
  • Phone coverage on less than 10% of trail

Season: Summer 
Total Elevation Gain: ~138,000 feet



Hiking the Great Divide Trail

The Great Divide Trail packs in some of the most prestigious, remote, and beautiful hikes in Canada into one package. The Great Divide Trail Association calls it the “wildest thru-hike,” and it’s not far off. The trail is broken up into seven sections, described below.


Section A: Waterton Monument to Coleman, Alberta

There is little warm-up on this trail. Right from day one there are substantial climbs up to alpine ridges and descents to crystal-blue lakes. The difficulty is increased as a massive portion of Waterton Lakes National Park was burned in a fire during the summer of 2017. Hiking through the burn can ramp up the temperature. On around day three or four, one of the hardest climbs of the entire trail begins as you ascend La Coulette Ridge, an off-trail climb up several peaks. The combination of over 5,000 feet of gain and off-trail scree travel means most people will only go 10-15 miles this day. After the ridge you will stay at much lower elevations for the rest of the section and most of the notable climbs will be out of the way. 

I recommend taking a zero in Coleman. Blairmore is a short way down the highway but doesn’t attract nearly the same amount of hikers. Check out Safe Haven BnB and the Paddock Inn; both are aware of GDT hikers and will usually have a special deal. If you need to shop, you will need to head to Blairmore, but it is a quick hitch or inexpensive cab

Top Alternate Pick: Barnaby Ridge is a continuation of La Coulette Ridge that continues traversing at ridge crest for several more miles. There is no water unless you drop down to Grizzly Lake so plan accordingly. This alternate will normally add a full day, is exceptionally difficult, and does require some scrambling.


Section B: Coleman, Alberta, to Boulton Creek, Alberta

This section has recently undergone a massive trail building campaign and has been rerouted to avoid a substantial road walk down a logging road. Starting out the section is a short walk down a dirt road before peeling off onto the High Rock Trail, which will be officially open for the summer of 2022. From here you climb up to the beautiful Window Mountain Lake and then along huge a rock wall for several miles. There are no camping reservations needed for Section B, which makes it very easy to plan. There is a lot of hiking in meadows and the flowers can be exceptional at the beginning of July. Section B also features Tornado Pass, one of the more precarious climbs with the final ascent around 30% grade up scree. Section B ends in around 20 miles of road walking, but it’s a dirt road that doesn’t see a ton of traffic. You can usually get a few bars of service here. 

The only option for a zero is at the Boulton Creek car campground. Choosing a powered site is key, otherwise you will spend your entire zero charging all your devices while sitting outside the camp store. There is no internet or phone service at the campground.


Section C: Boulton Creek, Alberta, to Field, British Columbia

This section is essentially most of Canada’s world-renowned trails packed into one section. The Rockwall Trail, Mount Assiniboine, Healy/Ball Pass, Egypt Lake … all of these trails are bucket-list hikes, which means reservations are extremely hard to get for certain campsites, and all sites through here need to be booked ahead. This is the busiest section of the entire trail, but most hikers are unaware of the Great Divide Trail. Some people break up this section by taking a zero in Banff, which adds a bit of distance, so plan accordingly. This section has some of the most spectacular, sweeping alpine views and the trail is in great condition. It feels easier than others due to the exceptional trail condition, particularly in contrast to some of the later sections with river crossings and bushwhacking. 

Many people will choose to zero in the town of Lake Louise, a short hitch from the town of Field where Section D starts. There is a great hostel in Lake Louise, and they have the cheapest food and beer in town. 

Top Alternate Pick: Northover Ridge. From the outset of the section you will head up Northover Ridge, which is the true Continental Divide. This typically adds a full day but has some of the best views on the entire trail.


Section D: Field, British Columbia, to Saskatchewan Crossing, Alberta

Starting off Section D you have a choice between taking the original trail and the Kiwetinok Alternate. The original trail is around 20 miles of overgrown roads, and I’ve heard it can be very mentally challenging and a slow go. The Kiwetinok Alternate starts on the Iceline Trail. I took this because I knew how beautiful the Iceline Trail is, but this also involves booking a hard-to-get site at Little Yoho. Some people will hike all the way over the Kiwetinok Pass, but this is an exceptionally long day with over 6,000 feet of gain. After the Kiwetinok Alternate rejoins the official trail, it almost exclusively follows the valley and river floodplain. After fording the Saskatchewan River more times than you can count, you will be near the end of the section. Large portions of this section are on the floodplain so expect wet feet and be careful with the crossings as the water is cold and certain areas are deep. Big miles are easy on this section, and there isn’t a lot of elevation gain with exception of the Kiwetinok Alternate. 

Saskatchewan Crossing Resort is the only option for accommodation and resupply at the end of this section. The resort does not have cell service and the internet sometimes works, but only to check email. The resort will hold a resupply box for a fee, but will waive it if you stay the night. It is expensive but most hikers will zero here and play endless Ping-Pong in the game room. The resort store has a decent selection of food, but it is insanely expensive; a fuel can costs nearly $20. 

Top Alternate Pick: Kiwetinok. If you want to see glaciers, this is the trail for you. From here you will ascend over a pass and descend through a large boulder field. There is a very steep climb and then another bushwhacking descent. The alternate is relatively new, but the trail is being broken in and it is very well flagged.

Additionally, I recommend the Collie Creek alternate. It shaves off a handful of logging road miles but does involve a river crossing. The blueberries can be great on this alternate.


Section E: Saskatchewan Crossing, Alberta, to Jasper, Alberta

This is another great section for anyone looking for a shorter hike and who doesn’t want to deal with campsite reservations. The hike heads steeply up the Owen Creek drainage and then leaves you with long alpine travel and sporadic trail.

These are some of the biggest views on the biggest terrain of the trail. The route-finding is easy and can be good practice if you are new to off-trail hiking. You will hit the official high point at mile 2,725 on the ironically named Unnamed Pass. You can continue on this section without reservations (but with an Alberta Public Lands Camping Pass) all the way Cataract Pass. After descending Cataract Pass you will be on the Brazeau Loop, a popular multiday hike.

The trail is in great shape and the campsites are nice, but you will need to make reservations. From here you will travel through the Maligne Valley and toward the aquamarine Maligne Lake. Only one party is allowed to travel through the valley per day due to the caribou habitat. Link up with other hikers on the Facebook page ahead of time to coordinate the permit. Arriving at Maligne Lake means there is only about 30 miles left before entering the wonderful town of Jasper, Alberta.

This is on the Skyline Trail, the most popular multiday trail in the park. Again, reservations come at a premium, but some people will hike the entire Skyline Trail in a day. It is long but isn’t exceptionally difficult, as the trail is probably the most manicured section of the entire Great Divide Trail. Afterward there is a bit of a walk through the town trails before arriving in town. Alternatively, you can cab into town but you will be missing some very beautiful lakes and great swimming spots. 

Jasper is the biggest town of the entire trail and has several gear stores, restaurants, and bars. There are two hostels in town, and they will both hold resupply boxes. You can easily resupply from one of the three grocery stores here if you don’t want to mail a box. 

Top Alternate Pick: From the Unnamed Pass and high point, head up the east ridge a few hundred feet for one of the best views you will probably ever see.

Six Passes Alternate: Although closed for 2022, this alternate will hopefully reopen in the future. Rather than descending through the Maligne Valley the trail goes up and over six remote passes, and is entirely off-trail with route finding. It is very difficult and requires good navigation and route-finding skills, as well as confidence in traveling without cairns or flagging. Only one party has been allowed to pass through per day, so the impact has been minimal through this area.


Sections F & G: Jasper, Alberta, to Kakwa Lake, British Columbia

The northernmost sections of the Great Divide Trail combine everything you have already experienced but now it’s more remote and more difficult. On my 2021 hike we only saw two other parties over the course of 11 days.

Until at least 2025, Section F and Section G will need to be linked together. The Berg Lake Trail is a very popular weekend trip and is the delimiter between the two sections. This trail provided access to the highway but was damaged due to extreme flooding. These two sections are typically done in 10-14 days. Leaving Jasper, many people will hitch or cab to avoid a 20-mile road walk. From here you will start heading toward the North Boundary Trail. Section F is relatively flat compared to other sections but can be slow due to mud and deadfall. This is also the first time you will have sizable river crossings that go over the knees and can be quite swift. 

Transitioning into Section G means more river crossings, and even more remote terrain. There will be long meadow walks with sporadic blazes, meaning a lot of it will be choose your own adventure. There are some notable climbs toward the end of the section, until you eventually reach the Jackpine Valley. Until 2021 the Jackpine Valley was one of the most infamous and slowest parts of the trail, with a long bushwhack typically lasting over a day. Thankfully the GDTA has done substantial trail building here and hikers will maintain their sanity. Eventually, you will end at a beautiful backcountry hut at Kakwa Lake. From here it is about 18 miles to the trailhead. From the trailhead it is several hours via logging road to the highway, you will need high-clearance 4×4 to get here. If you need a ride, you can pre-arrange a pickup with Robson Valley Adventures. 


Great Divide Trail Permits

Permits are one of the most challenging aspects of planning a GDT hike. There is no thru-hiker permit; you must book every site like a normal weekend hiker. The trail passes through Banff, Kootenay, Yoho, Jasper, and Waterton national parks; Peter Lougheed, Mount Assiniboine and Mount Robson provincial parks; and some public lands. All of these parks require permits and they are all booked separately on different days.

Each year the reservation days change. In 2022 the national parks reservations were between January 28 and February 2. Peter Lougheed releases permits 90 days in advance, Mount Assiniboine releases permits 60 days in advance, and Mount Robson is closed until 2025. However, you can still hike the Great Divide Trail without camping within Mount Robson Provincial Park.

Booking these permits is the same process for everyone wanting a backcountry reservation, so they are in extremely high demand. Most sites will be booked for the entire summer by midday of the reservation day. If you want to hike the GDT it is essential to be available these days, and ideally plan your entire day around these reservations. 

The Parks Canada reservations are made online, but they can also be made over the phone. On reservation day calling will typically go to voicemail, but they will call you back in the order they receive the messages. Always leave a phone message; it can be drastically faster than using the online portal.

Plan out a flexible itinerary if you can’t get your first choice of campsite. Section C of the trail is the most competitive so many people will start here and plan the rest of the hike around these reservations. Another high-profile section is the northern part of Section E on the Brazeau Loop and the Skyline Trail in Jasper National Park. 

The highest profile site is Floe Lake in Kootenay National Park, which is part of the Rockwall Trail. Another option is staying at Wolverine Pass, which is just outside the park boundary, so it doesn’t require a reservation. There are no facilities, however, and it does include another 2,500 feet of gain.

As mentioned previously, the Skyline Trail is very competitive. Curator campground seems to be the busiest, but choosing Watchtower campground is a good alternative and is only slightly off trail. Lastly, only one party per day is allowed to go through the Maligne Valley, just south of the Skyline Trail. These permits should be made over the phone with the Jasper Backcountry Office at 1-877-737-3783.

Online, Parks Canada requires a reservation Access Point, which is basically a trailhead, but it can get confusing on a thru-hike. This is where planning is necessary. When creating your itinerary, you will need to reference the Parks Canada reservation page ahead of time to see the associated trailheads for each campsite. As you will be traversing multiple parks, several of these sections will need to be booked as independent trips.

Another speed bump is dealing with the dreaded daylight hours error that the online reservation system will trigger. Essentially, the Parks Canada system doesn’t believe you can start at your chosen Access Point and make it to the campground you are trying to reserve. Any distances beyond 19 miles (~30km) will typically trigger this. There are two ways to avoid this: the best option is to chat with someone on the phone by calling the park directly. Otherwise, choose a different Access Point that is closer to the campsite you are trying to book; the Access Point doesn’t really need to be the trailhead you are actually starting from.

If you have multiple days of the daylight hours error, you will need to book each night as a standalone reservation. In other words, choose your Access Point and one campsite, then add to cart. Then for your next night choose another Access Point and then the next campsite. You will incur a reservation fee for each of these even though you are trying to link together a trip. In the past, Parks Canada has refunded these fees if you can show you are on one sequential trip. 

Reservations for the provincial parks are much more straightforward as you will typically only be within the park for a night or two, but they can be just as competitive. Additionally, if you choose to take a zero day at the end of Section B, you will be within Peter Lougheed Provincial Park and will need to book a car camping site. 

If you aren’t hiking the full trail and don’t want to battle for reservations, there are still plenty of sections to hike. Section A only requires a few reservations, and they are easy to come by. Section B doesn’t require any reservations at all. Section D can be done without reservations but having one of the first night will make it easier on the Kiwetinok Alternate. The first half of Section E can be done without any reservations. Section F and Section G also require very few reservations and are easy to reserve. 

With the exception of the Alberta Public Lands Camping Pass and a Parks Canada Discovery Pass, access is free along the entire trail and you only need to pay for campsite reservations.

A Parks Canada Discovery Pass is required for access to national parks, and while most people won’t necessarily have the pass with them it’s a good idea to have a picture of it on your phone. They can be purchased here.

Remote parts of Sections B, E and G will require an Alberta Public Lands Camping Pass. These are $30 and can be booked here.


How to get to the Great Divide Trail 

Nearest City: Calgary, Alberta (169 miles)
Trailhead / Terminus 1: Waterton Lakes National Park. Map it here
Trailhead / Terminus 2: Kakwa Lake Provincial Park. Map it here

The Southern Terminus of the Great Divide Trail is relatively easy to access. It’s in the town of Waterton and accessible by any vehicle. From the Calgary Airport it takes about three hours, but note that you can’t leave a vehicle in Waterton unless you are doing a short section and returning in a few days. 

There are a few options of getting to Waterton for hikers flying in from Calgary. First, is the Airport Shuttle Express, which goes from the airport directly to Waterton National Park. Secondly, is Mountain Man Mikes, a local shuttle that can take you from Calgary to Pincher Creek, Alberta. From Pincher Creek you can take a cab to Waterton National Park for around $100. 

The Northern Terminus of the Great Divide Trail is extremely remote, which means some hikers end their hike in Jasper, Alberta, rather than the terminus in Kakwa Provincial Park. From Jasper you can find multiple shuttles to Edmonton or Calgary, where you can access international airports.

The actual terminus trailhead in Kakwa Provincial Park is 46 miles down a very rough logging road. High clearance and 4×4 are required. Additionally, the trail is very overgrown. You will scratch your vehicle multiple times if attempting to drive to the trailhead. It is also a very slow drive; in 2021 it took a lifted pickup over three hours to access the trailhead. The turn off the highway is on a very remote section of Highway 16, near the town of McBride. From there, the closest city is Prince George, British Columbia, about two hours away. 

Robson Valley Adventures is a local hunting outfitter in the area and has picked up hikers in the past. They do charge a few hundred dollars and availability is limited. They can be reached via Facebook here. They can also drive you to Prince George, British Columbia, or Jasper, Alberta.


When to Hike the Great Divide Trail

The hiking season on the Great Divide Trail is very short. Most people start at the end of June or beginning of July and are off trail by mid-September. The average start date is July 1, and with a 50-day itinerary most people finish in mid-August. Starting in early June means substantial snowpack through avalanche terrain. Starting in late July means you might be hiking into late September, increasing the likelihood of sustained snowfall and bitter temperatures. 

At all times on the Great Divide Trail, hikers should be prepared for snowfall, and as the summer winds down the likelihood of snowfall drastically increases. It is not uncommon for several snowfalls to occur throughout the summer, all with measurable amounts. Additionally, it’s common for temperatures to go below 20F in mid-to-late August. 


Great Divide Trail Navigation

The go-to navigation on the Great Divide Trail is the FarOut (previously Guthook) app. All of the alternates are up to date and it works along the entire trail. However, receiving updates and comments can be hard to come by given that there are only a handful of spots along the entire trail with service. This is a great reason to bring a satellite messenger like a Garmin InReach.

As with all tech, it’s important to have some kind of backup and know how to use it. The Great Divide Trail Association has free topo maps of the entire trail. Just make sure you know how to use a map and compass before heading out, and print the maps with a laser printer so they don’t bleed if they get wet/rained on. We mailed each section’s maps in our resupply boxes.


Great Divide Trail Terrain 

With around 138,000 feet of elevation change, the Great Divide Trail terrain is constantly changing. Hikers will travel through alpine meadows, scree fields, and valley trail networks. A substantial amount of the trail is at or above treeline, with sweeping alpine views. Only about 100 hikers attempt the full trail each year, leaving some sections very remote and quite rugged. The remoteness also means trail maintenance can be very sporadic. Part of this means there are several areas with long stretches of deadfall. There are sections with route-finding and off-trail travel but most of these sections will be on alternates. If you follow the official route you can expect less than 5% of the trail to be true route-finding.


Great Divide Trail Resupply Strategy 

A resupply strategy is necessary on the Great Divide Trail. Throughout the trail there are five true resupply points, with a few other options if necessary. These resupply points will range from towns such as Jasper, Alberta, to car campgrounds with a small camp store. The shortest section is around 60 miles, while the last section is 173 miles. Mail drops are the best option. While it’s possible to resupply directly from all of these places, it’s extremely expensive and very limited. For example, at Saskatchewan Crossing (at the end of Section D), a pack of Pop-Tarts is $12. 

Currently all resupply points (except Boulton Creek at the end of Section B) accept resupply boxes. This can either be at the post office as general delivery or by arranging it with your accommodation. Access to these resupply points is relatively easy, and any road walking will be under three hours. Most people will hitch as some spots are on a busy highways with little to no shoulder. 

One thing to note is the snail pace of Canada Post to some of these resupply locations. A few locations are very remote and may only receive their mail once a week; if you miss the cutoff day this could potentially be a two-week delay. In general, try to have your resupply boxes arrive a month early. Also, I highly suggest mailing them from within Canada to avoid any problems with the border. Canada Post is exceptionally slow compared to the United States Postal Service so plan accordingly.


Great Divide Trail Logistics: Zero Days, Water, Bear Safety

Zero Days: Zero-day accommodation is part of the other preparation that must be done for the Great Divide Trail. With a very short hiking season and limited places to stay, accommodation for a zero-day can be very competitive. As soon as you have your itinerary penciled in, make your bookings for zero-day accommodation. Just make sure you can change it if your finalized campsite reservations alter your plan. The busiest spots will be Boulton Creek, Lake Louise, and Jasper. Finding a place to stay in Coleman can be easier but take note of when the Sinister 7 ultramarathon is taking place as the entire town will be booked up. 

Boulton Creek books up fast, so try to book your campsite the day it opens up. Reserving a powered site is worth it. Also check the map of the campground as some sites are a 10–15-minute walk to showers and the camp store.

If you are staying at the HI-hostel in Lake Louise and in Jasper, consider getting a Hostelling International membership. You will end up saving money if you stay two nights at each of the locations. Both of these hostels will fill up and last-minute bookings can be impossible in places like Jasper, so book these early. 

Lastly, Saskatchewan Crossing Resort will likely be your most expensive accommodation, but can be a great place to hang out with other hikers as it’s the only option other than stealth camping outside the park boundary.

Water: One of the best parts of hiking the Great Divide Trail is the abundant, wonderful quality of water all along the trail. It is very rare to go 10 miles without access to flowing water, and many sources are glacier fed. Most hikers will carry 2L or less and only a few campsites along the entire trail are dry.

Bear Safety: The entire Great Divide Trail travels through grizzly and black bear territory. Bear-proof food storage is necessary, whether you use a bear can or an Ursack. Several campgrounds will have bear lockers in Section C, but outside of this section they are very limited. The PCT method won’t cut it as you will sometimes be above treeline or there won’t be adequate trees for a proper food hang. 

Note: Permits and resupply are the other major logistical issues on this trail, which we covered above.


Know Before You Go

Camping Reservations: We cannot stress enough the monumental task of camping reservations, so have this all lined up before they go live. This means you can’t really adjust your itinerary once it’s booked, so be honest with yourself about your comfort of hiking in snow if you are heading out early. 

Bugs: The bugs can be life-altering. Most hikers will bring a bug head net to keep some sanity. Bug spray can have up to 30% DEET in Canada; if you want anything stronger make sure to purchase it ahead.

Weather: Lastly, prepare for weather. Sustained rain and/or snowfall is almost certainly going to happen. Decent rain gear and strategies for handling moisture and cold weather will pay their dividends.  


To recap, the Great Divide Trail doesn’t have the same kind of feel compared to the Triple Crown trails and only has around 100 thru-hike attempts per year. You will see some other thru-hikers if you start on the popular days like July 1, but once you are mid-hike, most people around you won’t even know about this trail.  

With long sections and heavy food carries, it is far from the easiest trail out there, and without any phone service and limited spots to bail it can be intimidating for new hikers. That being said, if you are looking for long stretches of uninterrupted raw wilderness and countless astounding views this is the trail for you.


Additional Great Divide Trail Resources

The Great Divide Trail Association has sample itineraries and resources for planning a trip. They also run the Great Divide Trail Hikers Facebook page, which has updates on closures, trail status, weather, and other information you might want to know before and during a hike. It’s also a great place to meet up with other hikers. 

Great Divide Trail Association

Great Divide Trail Hikers Facebook


Permits and Reservations

Parks Canada Reservations

BC Parks Reservations

Alberta Parks Reservations

Parks Canada Discovery Pass

Alberta Public Lands Camping Pass


Accommodations

Safe Haven B&B

Paddock Inn

Lake Louise HI Hostel

Saskatchewan Crossing Resort

Jasper Town Hostel

Jasper HI Hostel


Shuttles

Mountain Man Mikes

Robson Valley Adventures

Calgary Airport Shuttle


Austin is a hiker, snowboarder, and student living in Nelson, British Columbia. He is a weekend hiker turned thru-hiker after his 2021 NOBO GDT hike and is happy to call the West Kootenay Mountains his home.

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6418
Florida Trail https://backpackingroutes.com/florida-trail/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=florida-trail Mon, 15 Feb 2021 13:06:00 +0000 http://backpackingroutes.com/?p=2680 The Florida Trail is a point-to-point backpacking route spanning 1,500 miles. Exclusive to the state of Florida, its dirt and paved paths can be hiked in 60-90 days.

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Published by Sarah Wyatt, Florida Trail Thru-Hiker

The Florida Trail, complete with an Eastern Corridor and a Western Corridor, is a point-to-point backpacking route spanning about 1,500 miles. Exclusive to the state of Florida, its dirt and paved paths can be hiked in 60-90 days.


Region: Southeast (Florida State Parks and National Park Service) Length: Approximately 1,500 miles (60-90 days)

Physical Difficulty: Easy

  • Trail can be rocky and muddy
  • Most sections are flat and uncomplicated
  • Few PUDs

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

  • Fees for segments crossing US national parks; hikers should consider buying annual/military passes.
  • Northern Terminus (Pensacola) is simple to access
  • Many road crossings and easy resupply opportunities

Season: Winter, Spring



Miles / Day (average)Days to complete (rounded up)
10150
15100
1883
2268
2560
3050

While hiking the route is free of charge, but you will need a permit to cross in a few segments, such as at Big Cypress Seminole Reservation. Check the permits section of the Florida Trail website for more information.


Hiking the Florida Trail
Florida Trail photos Gulf Islands National Seashore Darrell Scattergood
Photo by Darrell Scattergood – Gulf Islands National Seashore

There are only seven shelters on the trail, so bring your own tent. Each Corridor by itself is approximately 248 miles long. Thru-hikes on the Eastern Corridor, including road sections, total 1,287.9 miles. Thru-hikes on the Western Corridor, inclusive of road sections, total 1,286.63 miles.

Approximately one-third of the Florida Trail is under trees, winding through national forests and verdant state parks for hundreds of miles. The Panhandle is somewhat more challenging than Peninsular terrain.

Most of the trail has minimal human-made direction by intention. The system is conservative with the quantity of both signage and blazes, but there is enough to adequately point you in the right direction. You cross major streets and highways several times—useful for resupply—and you’ll appreciate Florida’s knack for balancing conservation and convenience. The system has the helpful Friends of the Florida Trail (FoFT) that works hard to care for the route and offer resources.

Our initial week (about 150 miles) had a Gulf States or “Floribama” feel. Thin layers of felled pine needles and Spanish moss obscured some portions of the course, so we were cautious at those times since this made the walk a little slippery. This was slightly awkward but not unpleasant, as traces of sand offered some traction. The trail is incredibly well-marked for the most part, with plenty of warnings for off-limits detours such as near military bases.

After the first few days (heading east), the trail is a lot easier to follow and the terrain is milder. The climbs and descents are always less than 300 feet. Because of the lack of elevation gain, switchbacks are rare.

We hit a few bushy sections around Seminole County. This was rough, since it wasn’t just overgrown, but dense with thorns and briars. But for the most part, the trail is tidy. Some sections are framed with thick ferns and Spanish moss, while others have towering oak and pine trees.

As you cross south into Orange County, the ranchlands and sky seem to expand and offer a glimpse into Florida’s pioneer history and culture. In addition to native wildlife, the quirky feral fauna, such as peacocks, make appearances throughout. The area is dramatic and vast—those who view Central Florida as a theme-park destination are treated to its agrarian and rural sides.

The final 24.6 miles in Big Cypress South stretch through a great swamp of dwarf pond cypress and traverse pine islands. This section is Florida at its “boggiest,” but there is no elevation gain. It’s worth the slogging for the bragging rights.

The route is known as “the best trail in America you’ve never heard of.” While 350,000 people enjoy piecemeal sections of the trail each year, estimates suggest that this path draws fewer than 1,000 thru-hikers annually. We encountered dozens of section hikers and a couple of hunters each day. Everyone we met was incredibly kind and friendly. This is a perfect trail for a first thru-hike or route to the Florida Keys. It’s blazed, it’s on FarOut, and it is amazingly well-maintained and enjoyable in short portions as day trips to accompany typical Florida theme-park vacations or convention-related travel. Those who wish to commit to 60 to 90 days of backpacking will also appreciate this route.


How to Get to the Florida Trail
Darrell Scattergood - Big Cypress North Florida Trail
Photo by Darrell Scattergood – Big Cypress North

Northern Terminus: Fort Pickens, Gulf Islands National Seashore
Closest City: Pensacola, Florida (10 minutes)

Southern Terminus: Oasis Visitor Center, Big Cypress National Preserve
Closest City: Ochopee, Florida (15 minutes)

We hiked this trail headed east from Pensacola since that’s the more challenging side to access and we had attended a Blue Angels practice at the Navy base. There is limited public transportation at either end. The popular options are a taxi, car shuttle, a ride from a friend, or arranging a private shuttle. If you hike to the southbound terminus, getting to Miami International Airport when you finish is an easy two-hour shuttle from Big Cypress National Preserve. You can post in message boards when you’re a few days from finishing and ask if any Everglades City locals happen to be headed into Miami. Floridians, who embrace tourism’s economic and cultural benefit to their state, are an especially hospitable lot. There is an active Facebook group where people post car swaps and rides.

Florida Trail Northern (Western Panhandle) Terminus
Although there are cabs available at the airport, some hikers find it more enjoyable and less expensive to arrange a ride in advance or plan it with someone else in the Facebook groups. From Pensacola International Airport (PNS), head to I-10. It’s a 25-minute drive to Gulf Islands National Seashore when both local bay bridges are open. In 2021, there is construction on one of the two three-mile bridges due to its collapse from Hurricane Sally in 2020. Plan for a 45-minute drive during reconstruction. Take Exit 22 (Garcon). For more information regarding the bridge closure, consult the Florida Department of Transportation website.

Your Sunshine State walkabout starts at Fort Pickens, approximately 14 miles past the park entrance. The trailhead is between the historic fort and ferry pier. Some thru-hikers camp for a few days in this scenic area before departing. Call the park in advance for information at 850-934-2600.

This is a superb place to spend a few days. The beaches in the Panhandle are regarded by many Floridians as their state’s finest. The atypical sand evolved from quartz remnants of the Appalachian Mountains. Eventually, those eroded crystals were naturally ground into powdery, microscopic spheres. The translucent, pastel water is usually calm and temperate. Wear sunscreen on the beach, as the paleness of the terrain, while lovely, is a powerful solar reflector.

The park rangers are especially proud of Pensacola and happy to give recommendations to campers who wish to head into town for dinner. Eddie, a lively National Park Service ranger who works weekdays at the gate, directs hikers to the fresh seafood restaurants if they wish to avoid “brownfish,” his nickname for deep-fried fare.

Save for those camping there, cars cannot be parked overnight in Fort Pickens. Anecdotally, some thru-hikers have left their cars outside the park along Pensacola Beach and in Escambia County, but it’s best to ask the municipality for the go-ahead if this is your plan. For more information, contact Santa Rosa Island Authority, 850-932-2257.

Shuttles

  • PNS Lucky Cab on the west side (Pensacola). 850-607-6500
  • Ztrip Cab on the west side (Pensacola). 850-433-3333

*It’s not guaranteed any shuttle will drive you from the Pensacola airport to the trailhead without prior arrangements.

Florida Trail Southern Terminus
From Miami International Airport (MIA), it’s about 20 minutes to Florida State Park. Miami-Dade County has Uber and Lyft, which are the most obvious solutions. You can also post in the Facebook group and try to share a ride with someone.

Again, while there is public transport at either end, it’s wise to plan in advance.


When to Hike the Florida Trail / Which Direction
Darrell Scattergood Big Cypress North Florida Trail
Photo by Darrell Scattergood – Big Cypress North

For a winter / spring-season path, the Florida Trail is ideal. Think of it as a “snowbirder” journey compared to a “regular season” thru-hike. It never reaches higher than 272 feet, and while you might encounter cool days and nights, it’s generally pleasant throughout the winter and spring.

Late-September through mid-May is enjoyable, with many hikers embarking in January and February. We hiked it in March and April, averaging about 25 miles per day. Depending on how temperate the weather was, we hiked up to four hours after sunset. On some days we enjoyed a slower pace in order to enjoy wildlife sightings. Alligators are occasionally visible in the swamplands adjacent to the trail, particularly in Seminole County. The Florida Birding Trail, which is a speckled group of sites rather than a consistent pathway, overlaps with the Florida Trail in several locations. Bring binoculars to view the plethora of interesting avian populations.

It’s pleasant to travel this course in either direction. Hiking east across the Florida Peninsula gets the hilliest terrain out of the way first. This direction is favored by some car travelers who first take an eastbound scenic drive through the scenic Gulf states, arriving at Pensacola and the Northern Terminus.

If you are nervous about your fitness level and want to start on flatter terrain, commence on the southern end. Many treks beginning in January and February start at that side due to its warmer climate at that time of year. Those hikers reach the Panhandle in March or April when its daytime temperatures have risen to the mid-70s and 80s.


Florida Trail Terrain
Florida Trail Darrell Scattergood Gulf Islands National Seashore
Photo by Darrell Scattergood – Gulf Islands National Seashore

The Florida Trail is a low-elevation, partially wooded route. You’ll traverse low hills for part of the hike, with much of the rising and descending in the Panhandle portions of the trail. Some sections cross through or near wetlands, but overall, you can make really good time on smooth, dry terrain. The Peninsula is almost entirely flat.


Florida Trail Resupply

Be prepared for Apalachicola National Forest’s 83-mile stretch with no resupply options. Otherwise, you generally have hundreds of options for resupply along the Florida Trail. The footpath frequently crosses forest service roads and suburban areas, and some hikers choose to cache a few days’ worth of food in deer-proof containers at these crossings. If you go this route, you’ll need to have a decent guesstimate of your hiking pace, and you’ll also have to drive the entire route twice: once to drop off the food, and once to pick up the containers. While the route generally affords superb views and weather in the winter and spring, a 2,600 round-trip is cost-prohibitive to many travelers.

The best way to do this is to pack lightly, and resupply as needed at vendors in state parks and at crossings though towns. We resupplied a few times on the trail, and also used mail drops. Restocking was quite easy. We simply walked into nearby or intersecting townships, and even received a few invitations to dinner from sociable locals.

You can also send supplies to yourself by general delivery to nearly 95 percent of Florida post offices along the route. This is my favorite option. Call 800-ASK-USPS to ask if your intended post offices participate in the program.

Resupply 1, Perry, Florida
Perry is located south of the Econfina River section. This settlement is within walking distance of the trail at the crossroads of US 98, US 27, and US 221. Perry is home to two huge timber mills and Forest Capital Museum State Park, which features a pioneer homestead. There are several stores for resupply, such as Walmart Supercenter, Dollar Tree, and Winn-Dixie. This is a town where the locals sit on their front porches and enjoy meeting hikers.

Resupply 2, Oviedo, Florida
Oviedo is in the Lake Jesup section, which winds through thick woods and along rural roads next to the Econlockhatchee River. Watch out for black bears along this section of the path. (Yes, there are bears in Florida.) There are several restaurants and small stores right off the trail on Railroad Street, which is also the location of the post office. We got a ride to an organic food store on Alafaya Trail named Sprouts. There are numerous chain stores for resupply, such as Publix and the Walmart Supercenter.

Resupply 3, Clewiston, Florida
Located on the Florida Trail on a paved arc beside the curved edge of Lake Okeechobee at the Herbert Hoover Dike, Clewiston borders US 27. Best known for its sugarcane farm tours, I also enjoy stopping here for the nearly historic Clewiston Inn. This topographically eclectic area yields marshes, grassy patches, and tall palms. There are several large grocers for resupply, such as Winn-Dixie, Publix and the Walmart Supercenter.


Logistics: Camping, Water, Hunting Season
Darrell Scattergood Big Cypress North
Photo by Darrell Scattergood – Big Cypress North

Camping: Camping is free and common along the Florida Trail, but there are only seven shelters. There are numerous campsites with fire rings, and even if you don’t see a listed area on Gaia or FarOut, there will be a nice flat spot nearby, guaranteed.

Permits: While there is no charge for primitive camping along the trail on state-owned land, you will need a permit in a few spots, such as at Mike Roess Gold Head Branch State Park. Check the permits section of the Florida Trail website for more information. https://www.floridatrail.org/florida-national-scenic-trail/fnst/permits/

Water: Water can be a concern on the Florida Trail, as chemical runoff from cattle and sugarcane farms have contaminated watersheds. It’s not a good idea to try to replenish from any murky streams or ponds unless you’re fond of potential encounters with large reptiles.

Keep track of park service water fountains and freshwater springs on your app or map. Visitors enjoy drinking from North Florida’s large artesian springs, which pump cool, clear water from the aquifer into the Ocala National Forest. We each carried two collapsible two-liter bottles, and never ran out. Regardless of appearance, all water should be treated before drinking. There were two potential 20-mile waterless stretches.

Local trail crew and trail angels will sometimes cache water at crossings and in the seven shelters, but entirely relying on other people’s caches is never wise. If you use the last of a gallon jug at a cache, pay it forward and strap the empty bottle to your pack and pack it out.

Hunting Season: Winter and spring are the best time to hike the FT because most of the popular hunting seasons have concluded. Some game, however, are hunted year-round. Among them are feral hogs, nutria, and rabbits. Due to its state regulations, Florida is not considered a huge hunting destination in comparison to its neighboring states of Georgia and South Carolina. Regardless, you should wear at least one piece of blaze orange during an FT thru-hike. Fortunately, orange clothes are in abundance at Florida merchants. Blue and orange are the official colors of the University of Florida Gators, and are also popular in the state because they symbolize the citrus economy as well as a sunset at the ocean.

Most Florida hunters are skilled and considerate, but I provide them with the courtesy of visual notification. I tend to wear a blaze orange baseball cap or safety vest. On cool days, I add a pair of neon yellow gloves to my outdoor ensemble.


Know Before You Go
Florida Trail Darrell Scattergood Big Cypress North
Photo by Darrell Scattergood – Big Cypress North

Weather: A winter/spring thru-hike means being prepared for everything from 80 degrees and sunny to scattered days of wind and rain. Good rain gear is a necessity. Your visibility is generally high, which can be especially enjoyable when spotting a bald eagle or peregrine falcon.

Shorter Daylight: If you trek in the winter, you have fewer daylight hours to hike. Plan accordingly—if you don’t like night hiking, you may possibly hike fewer hours and your trek will last longer. If you’re night hiking, be equipped with a good headlamp (at least 300 lumens) and spare batteries, or a recharging pack. There are hundreds of independent and big-chain outdoor recreation stores throughout Florida, so you can buy a second headlamp if necessary.

Shelter and Trail Courtesy: Much of the Florida Trail has the unusual distinction of a tranquil, verdant path that’s geographically close to suburban conveniences yet burdened with exceptionally low crowding. With Florida welcoming roughly 1,000 new residents weekly, however, the foot traffic may soon rise. Be respectful of the shelters, campsites, and resources. Don’t leave snacks as trail magic in the shelters as it attracts snakes and raccoons. Take the time to appreciate the incredible pride and care that the FoFT and other organizations such as the Boy Scouts put into this corridor.


Florida Trail Resources

Florida Trail Association

Friends of the Florida Trail

Friends of the Florida Trail Facebook

Visit Florida Facebook


Sarah Wyatt is an award-winning ecotourism and sports journalist and lecturer with work appearing in diverse outlets such as Associated Press, Travel and Leisure, American Airlines’ inflight magazine, and AARP. She has held leadership and mentoring positions in the Native American Journalists Association as well as the Society of Professional Journalists.


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Pacific Northwest Trail https://backpackingroutes.com/pacific-northwest-trail/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=pacific-northwest-trail Thu, 10 Dec 2020 16:03:05 +0000 http://backpackingroutes.com/?p=1365 The 1,200-mile Pacific Northwest Trail is an epic, advanced thru-hike that takes backpackers from the Continental Divide to the Pacific Ocean. It can be completed in 10-14 weeks.

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Jeff Garmire hiked this route in 2014

The 1,200-mile Pacific Northwest Trail is an epic, advanced thru-hike that takes backpackers from the Continental Divide to the Pacific Ocean. It can be completed in 10-14 weeks.


RegionPacific West, Mountain West (Washington, Idaho, Montana)
Length: 1,200 miles (10-14 weeks)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult 

  • Steep, rugged trails
  • Quickly changing and intense weather
  • Rooty, rocky trails with blowdowns

Logistical Difficulty: Difficult

  • A long, remote trail with little cell service
  • Three national parks to plan permits in
  • Difficult navigation and changing land management groups
  • Resupply needs to be planned in advance. Resupply spreadsheet here.

Season: Summer / Early Fall

Pacific Northwest Trail Elevation Profile
Pacific Northwest Trail Elevation Profile
Pacific Northwest Trail Elevation Profile (East to West)

Miles / Day (average)Days to complete (rounded up)
10120
1580
1867
2255
2548
3040
How to Get to the Pacific Northwest Trail
Pacific Northwest Trail in Glacier National Park
Pacific Northwest Trail in Glacier National Park.

This is one of the most challenging trails to access on either end. I had a ride to the western terminus, but here is a collection of info on reaching either end if you don’t have a ride.

Pacific Northwest Trail Eastern Terminus

The eastern terminus of the PNT is located at Chief Mountain Customs off the Chief Mountain Highway right at the northeast corner of Glacier National Park in Montana.

Closest Major City: East Glacier, Montana (67 miles)

From the East Glacier Amtrak station, arranging a private taxi or setting up a ride is the best option for getting to the terminus. Smaller airports and stations exist in the smaller cities within a few hours of East Glacier, and we would recommend planning the trip that gets you to East Glacier and/or the St. Mary Visitor Center for Glacier National Park backcountry permits.

Pacific Northwest Trail Western Terminus

The western terminus is in Olympic National Park at Cape Alava. Like the eastern terminus, this is quite remote, but there are a few more options to get close to this point. Cape Alava is a 3-mile hike from the park’s Ozette ranger station.

Personal Transportation to the Pacific Northwest Trail Western Terminus

You can reach Ozette Lake (and then hike the 3 miles to Cape Alava) most easily by getting a ride to the area. There are also private shuttles back to Ozette if you are section hiking Section 10, and it is possible to leave a vehicle here.

Public Transit to the Pacific Northwest Trail Western Terminus

Public transportation is available between Seattle and major trail towns on the Olympic Peninsula, but it is not possible to reach Ozette by public transit.

Hikers taking public transportation from Seattle will also need to book a shuttle or find another ride from the nearest bus stop, between 30-50 miles from Ozette / Cape Alava. Hitchhiking is illegal in national parks and Uber or Lyft might not be available as you get more remote.

From Seattle-Tacoma International Airport, hikers can get to Forks, Clallam Bay, or Neah Bay via a series of buses and a ferry. This can be pieced together with the Jefferson Transit and Clallam Transit schedules.

Private Shuttle to the Pacific Northwest Trail Western Terminus

A private shuttle operated by the Olympic Hiking Company can now be used to travel between Ozette and the nearest transit stations on the Olympic Peninsula. Here is a schedule of the shuttle’s route between Oil City and Neah Bay. The shuttle operator is usually able to accommodate quick drop-off requests for PNT hikers at bus stops along the route at Neah Bay, Clallam Bay, or in the trail town of Forks so that they can use public transit to reach Seattle and other destinations.

Olympic Hiking Company can also arrange custom shuttle trips throughout Olympic National Park. Please note that all shuttle trips must be booked in advance. 


Hiking the Pacific Northwest Trail

Pacific Northwest Trail Chief Mountain Terminus
Pacific Northwest Trail Chief Mountain Terminus.

The Pacific Northwest Trail gained National Scenic Trail designation in 2009. It spans from the Pacific Ocean to the Continental Divide. One of the draws of the trail is that it cuts diagonally across numerous mountain ranges. On the 1,200-mile route, hikers access ranges of the Continental Divide, Whitefish Divide, Purcells, Selkirks, Kettles, Cascades, and Olympic mountains.

The route crosses through rainforests, offers beach camping, and follows the Boundary Trail for much of its length. The Pacific Northwest Trail is one of the most remote in the Lower 48, and is by no means a beginner trail. Simply for the fact it is so remote and travels through some of the least-used land in the country, it offers an experience that few people get, and no other trail offers.

The Pacific Northwest Trail is separated into 10 segments, numbered and spanning from east to west. We have outlined them, what they entail, and the features of each section.

Section 1 – The Rocky Mountains
149 miles
East Terminus to Eureka, Montana

The eastern terminus of the trail sits at Chief Mountain Border Crossing, from which the trail winds through Glacier National Park for 55 miles. After exiting Glacier is the best spot for the first resupply: Polebridge. There is a cute little mercantile and restaurant that sits on the outskirts of GNP. From Glacier the PNT climbs the Whitefish Divide, offering an even more remote experience than the west side of the national park. The sections ends as the trail walks right through the heart of Eureka, Montana.

This section is known for the national park, grizzly bears, elk, moose, marmots, and very remote hiking from Polebridge to Eureka. A backcountry permit is needed to hike through Glacier and can be obtained from the Polebridge ranger station if entering the park from the west.

Section 2 – Purcell Mountains
97 miles
Eureka to Hwy 95 (Bonners Ferry, Idaho)

The Purcell Mountain section is one of the most remote on the entire trail. It passes four remote fire lookout towers and through areas with the continent’s most iconic mammals (wolves, grizzly, black bear, elk, and moose). Section 2 of the PNT offers two small windows into civilization. Yaak, Montana, in the Yaak Valley provides a destination for hikers with two bars and a minor resupply. Outside of this small 280-population community, there is a small, hiker-friendly resort that can hold packages and offer a good meal.

Section 3 – Selkirk Mountains
143 miles
Hwy 95 (Bonners Ferry) to Northport, Washington

Heading east from Highway 95, the trail crosses the Kootenai River Valley— a peaceful river valley surrounded by rolling hills. But the ease and peacefulness is short-lived, with a harsh climb into the Selkirk Mountains. Once at the height of the mountains, hikers reach some of the most challenging sections of the entire PNT. Just before dropping to Upper Priest Lake the trail largely disappears and what follows is one of the longest bushwhacks on any major trail. It is fairly easy to find the road at the bottom if the correct bearing is taken, but it is an exciting section and you’ll need a map and compass.

After Upper Priest Lake there are a few alternates we recommend, if only for the swimming prospects in Sullivan Lake. From the campground on the north side of the lake, a series of roads leads to Metaline Falls, Washington, the first true chance to resupply since Bonners Ferry. The trail follows a series of roads out of the small town and then branches off on a trail to climb up Abercrombie Mountain, the highest point in the section. From the summit it is a decent trail and roadwalk to get to Northport.

Section 4 – Kettle River Range
121 miles
Northport to Sweat Creek

From Northport, the Pacific Northwest Trail follows a series of roads back into the Kettle River Range. This is much hotter and drier than a location so close to Canada would lead you to believe. Water is precious as the trail joins a portion of the Kettle Crest National Recreation Trail. The major city after Northport is Republic, Washington. The town has everything a hiker could need, from hotels to a full supermarket. This town can be hitched to from three different locations, as the Pacific Northwest Trail goes around three sides of the county seat of Ferry County.

Section 5 – Okanogan Highlands
104 miles
Sweat Creek to Cold Springs

The Okanogan Highlands are another hot section where water is scarce. But don’t be deceived; this section also receives substantial snowfall in the winter. The route seesaws through the mountains with a smattering of fields and forests. There are reprieves throughout the section, with a store and campground on the banks of Bonaparte Lake. The resort will hold packages and has an assortment of snacks and drinks. An open plain and another forest before a beautiful trail leads down to Highway 97. Here begins the longest roadwalk of the trail. Hikers reach Oroville, a full-service town, but on the west side of town there is a substantial amount of asphalt to walk. At the end of this walk (and section) there is an alternate on most maps and apps we recommend avoiding. I attempted to complete the scramble connecting the road to the trail, but it wasn’t worth the consequences.

Section 6 – Pasayten Wilderness
121 miles
Cold Springs to Ross Lake

The trail enters the vast Pasayten Wilderness with abandoned cabins, mines, and relics of past inhabitants. The PNT follows the route of the Boundary Trail, winding through the remnants of old forest fires, sprawling forests, unkempt trail, across churning rivers… all within a stone’s throw of Canada. This is one of the most difficult sections to resupply, despite the 13 miles that are shared with the Pacific Crest Trail. Options exist to hitch to Mazama or Winthrop, two PCT resupply points, but when I hiked this trail I stuck it out all the way between Ross Lake and Oroville without a resupply. This section offers the best look at what the country used to be, rolling hills leading to a huge expanse of untouched land.

Section 7 – North Cascades
196 miles
Ross Lake to Oyster Dome

After picking up your package at Ross Lake, the immersion into the high peaks of the Washington Cascades begins. It is like nothing found in the rest of the country. Sweeping views of dormant and active volcanoes dominate the skyline. Hiking around Mount Baker, through lower forest lands, and along some of the first trail constructed on the Pacific Northwest Trail all form this section.

The only resupply locations close to the trail in the section are at the beginning (Ross Lake) and at the end (Alger, .7 off the trail). Other than these spots, hitching is necessary to properly resupply across the longest section of the entire trail. When I did the trail I mailed a package to Glacier, Washington, and was able to work with the short post office hours.

Section 8 – Puget Sound
68 miles
Oyster Dome to Coupeville

After two difficult sections to resupply, hikers of the PNT enter a populated area. The climate is very manageable and amenities are everywhere, even a ferry! This is the first introduction to beach hiking and a sign that the end of the thru-hike is in sight. Lightweight carries are the name of the game through the Sound, and many photos of seals, Deception Pass, and the deer.

Section 9 – Olympic Mountains
162 miles
Coupeville to Forks

The mountains of the Olympics and the rainforest of the Olympic Peninsula make up one of the most diverse sections of trail in the entire country. The peaks of the mountains get high snow while the temperate rainforest on the shores of the Bogachiel River gets over 12 feet of rain each year. Moss and stunning green forest surround you as the trail drops from the mountains to the lower forests, with a nice beach walk awaiting. Diverse wildlife ranging from bears to goats to giant Roosevelt elk call this section home. Forks is the end of the section and has gained tourism fame from its inclusion in the Twilight movies. The small town is a short hitch, and offers anything a hiker needs before their final section.

Section 10 – Wilderness Coast
61 miles
Forks to Cape Alava (Western Terminus)

This is the final stage of the mountains to the ocean route that has taken hikers against the grain of seven different mountain ranges. Camping on the beach begins and the magical view of seeing the sunset over the Pacific Ocean. A bear can is required to camp in Olympic National Park. For the beach portion, this is more to protect food and gear from raccoons than from the bears. This final section is best navigated by following the tides to sneak around the inlets before the water comes in again. The rocks and barnacles are sharp and will cut the lifespan of your shoes in half.

Another staple of the northward beach walk to the end of the trail is the rugged ladders that assist hikers in climbing up and over the headlands, before dropping back to the beach on the other side. This section is unlike any section of any other National Scenic Trail in the US, so enjoy the final 61 miles of your journey!

Pacific Northwest Trail Resupply Data Here



When Should You Hike the Pacific Northwest Trail?

The best time to hike the Pacific Northwest Trail is in the summer when snow has melted, the rainforest has less precipitation, and the downpours on the Washington coast are less frequent. The Pacific Northwest Trail is unique in that it traverses so many different mountains, beaches, rainforest, and arid high plains that you won’t get ideal weather throughout the entire trail, but you can minimize your rough times by starting in early summer.

Should You Hike Eastbound or Westbound?

There is no perfect answer to this question—both terminuses are difficult to access, and since the trail goes laterally, you aren’t chasing the seasons like you do on a north-south trail. The majority of thru-hikers hike the PNT from east to west (westbound), but I’ve have hiked this trail twice eastbound. Many hikers like to start at the heights of the Continental Divide and finish at the ocean, but both directions offer similar adversity and beauty.


Pacific Northwest Trail Terrain 
Pacific Northwest Trail backpacking route
Pacific Northwest Trail .

The Pacific Northwest Trail has every kind of terrain imaginable. Hikers experience a rainforest on the Olympic Peninsula, and a very arid and exposed section through Northeastern Washington. This is an advanced-level thru-hike, in that the challenges involved are a combination of everything that most long-distance trails require. You’ll need everything from an ice axe, to an umbrella, to snow gear and crampons, to sun protection, to bear spray. When we say you encounter it all, we mean it.


Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water
Pacific Northwest Trail near Mt. Baker
Pacific Northwest Trail near Mount Baker.

Permits: Backcountry permits are required to camp on the PNT in the three national parks that it passes through: Glacier National ParkNorth Cascades National Park Complex, and Olympic National Park.

Camping: Other than the national parks requiring permits, the Pacific Northwest Trail offers dispersed camping unless otherwise noted. There are corridors through public lands, so using LNT practices is important to maintain this footpath and the positive relationships with landowners.

Water Carries: There are multiple waterless stretches up to 20 miles in length, so check your sources and be prepared with plenty of water and add electrolyte tabs to stay hydrated.


Know Before You Go

Pacific Northwest Trail in Washington
Pacific Northwest Trail in Washington.

Wildlife: Ticks, mosquitoes, snakes, and grizzly bears exist on this trail, so planning out each section and what to expect is essential. From the Idaho border to the eastern terminus we recommend carrying bear spray.

Road Walks: You’ll encounter some roadwalks on this trail. Some are long and flat, but our experiences with the residents along them have been nothing but positive.


Pacific Northwest Trail Resources

Pacific Northwest Trail in Olympic National Park
Pacific Northwest Trail in Olympic National Park.

The Pacific Northwest Trail Association has made overview maps and more detailed map sets available for download, found here. More detailed maps found here.

Pacific Northwest Trail Association

Glacier National Park Backcountry Office

North Cascades National Park Backcountry Office

Olympic National Park Backcountry Office

Maps for the PNT


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The Arizona Trail https://backpackingroutes.com/the-arizona-trail/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=the-arizona-trail Mon, 05 Oct 2020 17:41:47 +0000 http://backpackingroutes.com/?p=159 The Arizona Trail stretches 800 miles across the entire state of Arizona. It takes about 6-8 weeks to complete.

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Jeff Garmire hiked this route in 2019

The Arizona Trail is a premier spring/fall thru-hike that stretches 800 miles across the entire state of Arizona. It takes 6-8 weeks to complete.


Region: Southwest (Arizona)
Length: 800 miles (5-8 weeks)



Get the Arizona Trail Guide from Guthook/Far Out

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

  • High temperatures
  • Long, sustained climbs
  • Long water carries

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

  • Resupply every 50 miles or so with good access to towns
  • Trail is long enough to require plenty of planning
  • Point-to-point, travel planning required

Season: Spring, NOBO starting late March or early April; or fall, SOBO starting in mid-October

Elevation (Average): 5,300 feet

Total Elevation Gain: 111,000 feet

Time to Complete:  5-8 weeks on average

Arizona Trail Elevation Profile
Miles / Day (average)Days to complete (rounded up)
1080
1553
1844
2236
2532
3027
Arizona Trail Overview

Closest City to Southern Terminus: Tucson, Arizona (94 miles)
Closest City to Northern Terminus:
St. George, Utah (128 miles)

The Arizona Trail is special thanks to the time of year it can be hiked, and the length. With the majority of people hiking the AZT in the shoulder seasons (spring and fall), it is a break from the most popular trails in the United States. 800 miles is the perfect challenge to immerse yourself in the thru-hiking lifestyle, but is also a manageable distance to maintain a career and off-trail obligations.

Arizona is full of sky islands, isolated mountains with lowland environments on all sides. In terms of the Arizona Trail, this means one is never in one environment for long. Beginning in Coronado National Memorial, the trail shoots straight up to Miller Peak and seesaws up and down through the Huachuca, Santa Rita, and Rincon Mountains within the first 200 miles.

Near Tucson, the trail climbs through the Santa Catalina before crossing the largest of the true desert sections near Oracle. The trail quickly climbs into the Superstitions, drops to Roosevelt Lake, and then ascends into the Four Peaks Wilderness and the Mazatzal Mountains. After the most rugged sections, the route follows the Mogollon Rim toward Flagstaff and up toward the Grand Canyon.

The trail ends with a crossing of the Grand Canyon and the Kaibab Plateau. It ends at the Utah border after giving travelers a wild 800-mile ride through a condensed, diverse, scenic landscape.

When to Hike the Arizona Trail

Hikers attempting the AZT in the spring and fall are nearly split in half. Neither direction is better or worse, and each offers different challenges, sights, and environments. The time of year makes a thru-hike dramatically different.

A springtime hike of the Arizona Trail is best suited for the northbound (NOBO) direction. Starting at the Mexican border in March or April is ideal timing. Most water sources are flowing and the weather is relatively tame. Spring is a great time to see wildflowers and see the wildlife returning to the sky islands. The timing for the national parks (Saguaro and Grand Canyon) is perfect for avoiding crowds while also finding a good weather window. 

The downside to a spring northbound hike is the remnants of winter. Snow clings to the high-altitude peaks, and with the snow comes mud. It is a price to pay for flowing springs, full ponds, and green grass. In a big snow year, winter conditions can become a large part of the second half of the hike. Keep an eye on melting patterns of the terrain when considering your start date. The Kaibab Plateau (northernmost 70 miles) is likely to hold snow if a thru-hiker arrives too early. The other issue with starting early in the spring is the lack of amenities on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. The South Rim is the large hub for the second-most-visited national park, but the North Rim is simply a seasonal location. Highway 67, which accesses the North Rim, is closed throughout the winter and opening it is subject to the arrival of spring and the seasonality of visitors. 

A fall hike of the AZT is traditionally done in a southbound (SOBO) style, starting up north before winter has arrived and completed across the desert sections after the heat of summer has dissipated. The trail is traditionally more clear with temperate weather throughout for southbound travelers. 

A fall hike has the potential for coinciding with early winter storms. The temperature up north can drop quickly and offer cold nights. Water sources are less dependable after a summer of drying out and the wildlife has slowed its movements or hunkered down for winter. The time in the national parks is likely to coincide with snowbirds arriving in Arizona for their winter homes. It is a completely different hike than heading northbound. It is a race against winter, but on a clear trail, void of mud or water. 

Getting to the Southern Terminus

The Southern Terminus of the Arizona Trail is located on the Mexican border in Coronado National Memorial. The monument can be reached by hiking two miles south from Montezuma Pass Trailhead to the border, or by hiking 2.5 miles up the Joe’s Canyon Trail from the Colorado National Memorial Visitors Center and then one mile south on the Arizona Trail.  

The closest airport to the Southern Terminus is Tucson, and multiple options exist for making it out to the trail. Multiple shuttles (listed on the resource page) run from Tucson International Airport to Sierra Vista and then from Sierra Vista to Coronado National Monument. Tucson is a city of over a million people, and it is best to organize a ride ahead of time. But, from Sierra Vista it is an easy hitch to the memorial and the start of the AZT. Shuttle services here. Map it here.

Getting to the Northern Terminus

The Northern Terminus of the Arizona Trail is located at the Stateline Trailhead on the Arizona / Utah border. There is a campground and a dirt road that leads down to the monument from State Highway 89. There is no water at the campground, but it is a fairly busy location for car camping and it is likely that water can be obtained from campers.

Hitching is possible, especially in the afternoon as campers are leaving. The two closest towns are Kanab, Utah, to the west and Page, Arizona, to the east. There is little to no cell service in the area, and it is best to organize a ride prior to completing the trail. We’ve listed shuttles on our resource page. Shuttle services here. Map it here

Arizona Trail Resupply Strategy

Resupplying on the Arizona Trail is simple, and can be a mix of sending packages and buying supplies in town. Hikers will hit a solid resupply town (or access to one) every 50 or so miles. Our complete Arizona Trail resupply guide can be found here.

Permits and Camping

The Arizona Trail is a newer addition to the National Scenic Trails and thus a trail-wide permit does not yet exist.

The two national parks on the route are the only two in which a permit must be obtained in order to camp. The trail passes through Saguaro National Park for 17.5 miles. Dispersed camping is illegal in the national park and a permit must be obtained to camp at one of the designated areas. The two possible campsites are Manning Camp and Grass Shack Campground on the traditional Arizona Trail route. It is common for thru-hikers to camp at one boundary of Saguaro National Park and cross the entire boundary in one day. If this strategy is followed, a permit is not needed for this section.

Grand Canyon National Park is the second location where a backcountry permit is needed to camp. A backcountry camping permit can be acquired from the backcountry ranger office in the Grand Canyon Village heading NOBO, and is required to be displayed on the outside of the pack throughout the Grand Canyon section. Options for camping in Grand Canyon National Park include Bright Angel Campground, Phantom Ranch, Cottonwood Camp, and North Rim Campground.

Arizona Trail Passages

The Arizona Trail is broken up into 43 passages, roughly divided between southern, central, and northern passages. They range from fewer than 10 miles up to 30 miles and can be combined for day hikes, short sections, or longer trips.

The below passages have been linked from the Arizona Trail Website with additional resources, links, and information linked through ATA website

PASSAGE 1: HUACHUCA MOUNTAINS


PASSAGE 2: CANELO HILLS EAST


PASSAGE 3: CANELO HILLS WEST


PASSAGE 4: TEMPORAL GULCH


PASSAGE 5: SANTA RITA MOUNTAINS


PASSAGE 6: LAS COLINAS


PASSAGE 7: LAS CIENEGAS


PASSAGE 8: RINCON VALLEY


PASSAGE 9: RINCON MOUNTAINS


PASSAGE 10: REDINGTON PASS


PASSAGE 11: SANTA CATALINA MOUNTAINS


PASSAGE 11B: PUSCH RIDGE WILDERNESS BYPASS


PASSAGE 12: ORACLE RIDGE


PASSAGE 13: ORACLE


CENTRAL PASSAGES

The passages considered “Central” run from Black Hills (Passage 14) to Highline (Passage 26), near the Mogollon Rim.

PASSAGE 14: BLACK HILLS


PASSAGE 15: TORTILLA MOUNTAINS


PASSAGE 16: GILA RIVER CANYONS


PASSAGE 17: ALAMO CANYON


PASSAGE 18: REAVIS CANYON


PASSAGE 19: SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS


PASSAGE 20: FOUR PEAKS


PASSAGE 21: PINE MOUNTAIN


PASSAGE 22: SADDLE MOUNTAIN


PASSAGE 23: MAZATZAL DIVIDE


PASSAGE 24: RED HILLS


PASSAGE 25: WHITEROCK MESA


PASSAGE 26: HIGHLINE


NORTHERN PASSAGES

The passages considered “Northern” run from Blue Ridge (Passage 27) to Buckskin Mountain (Passage 43) on the Utah border.

PASSAGE 27: BLUE RIDGE


PASSAGE 28: HAPPY JACK


PASSAGE 29: MORMON LAKE


PASSAGE 30: ANDERSON MESA


PASSAGE 31: WALNUT CANYON


PASSAGE 32: ELDEN MOUNTAIN


PASSAGE 33: FLAGSTAFF


PASSAGE 34: SAN FRANCISCO PEAKS


PASSAGE 35: BABBITT RANCH


PASSAGE 36: COCONINO RIM


PASSAGE 37: GRAND CANYON – SOUTH RIM


PASSAGE 38: GRAND CANYON – INNER GORGE


PASSAGE 39: GRAND CANYON – NORTH RIM


PASSAGE 40: KAIBAB PLATEAU SOUTH


PASSAGE 41: KAIBAB PLATEAU CENTRAL


PASSAGE 42: KAIBAB PLATEAU NORTH


PASSAGE 43: BUCKSKIN MOUNTAIN

Know Before You Go

Water Scarcity: Keep tabs on where the water shortages might be. Fall is going to be harder to collect water than a springtime hike.

Planning for the Grand Canyon: You need a permit to stay overnight in the Grand Canyon. You’ll need to get a spot at Cottonwood Campground, which means a visit to the ranger station / backcountry permit office.

Preparing for Snow up North: It depends on the snow year, but snow can stay on the ground through later spring in the northernmost sections of the trail.

Resources


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