Region: New England (Connecticut, Massachusetts)

Length: 215 miles (14 to 20 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

Logistical Difficulty: Difficult

Season: Year-round
Highest Elevation: 1,617 feet
Lowest Elevation: 0 feet
Net Elevation Gain: 30,000 feet

Hiking the New England Trail

The New England Trail threads its way through heavily populated private land and preciously preserved public land from Long Island Sound in Connecticut north to Royalston Falls in Massachusetts and the terminus at the New Hampshire border. Most of the trail follows the rocky Metacomet Ridge, with expansive views of farmland and encroaching suburban housing developments below, and at times the trail skirts the edges of residential yards and follows paved roads. Despite that closeness to suburbia, there’s solitude in the woods, especially in winter, when I hiked most of the trail.

The woods tell the story of early New England: stone walls built by farmers, a graveyard for smallpox victims, and stone caves where men fighting with post-Revolutionary War insurrectionist Daniel Shays reportedly camped.

The 21^st century tells a different story: encroaching suburban neighborhoods and battles to secure the trail’s path where it passes through private land.

And that’s what makes thru-hiking the NET a challenge. The on-trail campsites are on public land or private land with landowners’ permission, and hikers are advised to leave the trail for overnight accommodations if not staying at a designated campsite.

The southern and northern trail sections have the most sites, with only three overnight sites in the wide gap in between. Observing the guidelines against stealth camping means paying attention to when you need to get off trail to sleep. Although the trail frequently crosses roads, many of them pass through suburban neighborhoods that don’t offer opportunities for resupply and lodging.

And be aware that if you choose to stealth camp, you may be pitching your tent in someone’s backyard.

Roadwalks are the bane of thru-hikers, and the NET has plenty of them. The Western Massachusetts Chapter of the Appalachian Mountain Club and the Connecticut Forest & Park Association, which together maintain the trail, are working to move those roadwalks into the woods and establish more campsites.

Lyme disease was first identified in Lyme, Connecticut, a town near the trail, and it’s now present in ticks all along the trail. It’s a good idea to check daily for ticks—even in winter—and treat your clothes with Permethrin to repel them.

Copperheads and timber rattlesnakes live along the trail in Connecticut and southern Massachusetts, although it’s rare to see one. They are considered endangered in both states.

How to Get to the New England Trail

The southern terminus on Long Island Sound in Guilford, Connecticut, is an easy reach using public transportation. The northern terminus in Royalston Falls has no public transportation and cell coverage is spotty. The New England Scenic Trail Hikers Facebook page has information on people willing to shuttle hikers in Connecticut and Massachusetts.

Northern Terminus

The trailhead parking in Royalston Falls is .7 miles from the northern terminus at the New Hampshire border. The TTOR Lean-to is near the terminus, so it’s possible for northbound thru-hikers to stay there after reaching the terminus or stay at the shelter to begin a southbound hike.

Although Uber and Lyft say they have drivers who go to the northern terminus, actually getting someone to drive you may be a different story.

Public transportation to the northern terminus is possible, but involves planning and several steps. Greyhound and Amtrak both stop at the John W. Olver Transit Center in Greenfield, Massachusetts, and from there a Franklin Regional Transit Authority bus goes to Orange, Massachusetts. An Uber or Lyft could be possible from Orange to the terminus at Royalston Falls, about a 16-mile ride.

Another possibility is taking the MBTA Commuter Rail from Boston to Fitchburg, Massachusetts, and setting up an Uber or Lyft to the northern terminus. It’s about 34 miles from Fitchburg to Royalston Falls.

Because of spotty cell reception at the northern terminus arranging an Uber or Lyft from there is dicey. If you’re heading north the Mt. Grace peak is a good spot to arrange a pickup at the northern terminus.

Southern Terminus

Getting to the southern terminus at Chittenden Park on Long Island Sound in Guilford is much easier.

Nearby New Haven, Connecticut, is a major rail and bus hub, and from New Haven the Shoreline East train runs to Guilford, where the NET passes through the station. Hikers taking the train to Guilford walk a short distance to the southern terminus, turn around, and begin their northbound hike, passing back through the train station.

The following public transportation options provide access to the southern terminus:

Amtrak Hartford Line: Commuter service from Springfield, Massachusetts, to New Haven. Amtrak trains from Burlington, Vermont, and Montreal, Canada, also stop along this line.

Amtrak: Nationwide rail service that has a stop in New Haven.

Metro-North: Rail service from Grand Central Terminal in New York City to New Haven.

Shoreline East: Train from New Haven to Old Saybrook, Connecticut, with a stop in Guilford.

Peter Pan: Bus service to New Haven from cities in Connecticut and Massachusetts.

Greyhound: Bus service to New Haven from cities across the country.

When to Hike the New England Trail

Spring: Late March through mid-May are good times for starting at Long Island Sound. The snow should be gone by then, although late March and April snowstorms are always possible in northern sections. Late May into June can be irritatingly buggy.

Summer: Hot, humid, and still buggy. A dry summer can make water supplies low and the hike difficult.

Fall: Cooler temperatures, no bugs, and the leaves are starting to change color by late September. September rains can replenish water supplies.

Winter: Snow is rare near the coast, more likely from northern Connecticut to the Massachusetts-New Hampshire border. Still, in southern Massachusetts and all of Connecticut it’s rare lately that snow on the ground lasts more than a week after a winter storm.

The New England Trail Terrain

The trail starts at sea level on Long Island Sound in Guilford, and follows roads north through Guilford for about 3 miles before climbing atop the Metacomet Ridge, whose craggy, reddish cliffs are made up of traprock, a volcanic basalt rock. Hikers climb up and down the mostly dry ridge, high above suburban housing developments and nearby cities, as it winds through Connecticut and southern Massachusetts.

Those ridgetop climbs and sweeping views from open cliffs are repeated along the trail through Connecticut: Trimountain; Beseck Mountain, where the trail passes close to the steep ridge cliff; Mount Higby, with views south to Long Island Sound and north to Mount Tom in southern Massachusetts; Chauncey Peak, which drops steeply to Crescent Lake on one side and a working quarry on the other; Lamentation Mountain; the Hanging Hills; and Ragged Mountain, popular with rock climbers.

Along the way Castle Craig in the Hanging Hills and Heublein Tower farther north provide good views of the surrounding land in Connecticut, and can be packed with day trippers.

Soon after entering Massachusetts hikers encounter the Westfield River, which can be crossed if the water is low. If the water is high a shuttle is the best way to cross the river. Go to the New England Scenic Trail Hikers Facebook page and search for “Westfield River shuttle” to find people who drive hikers across the river.

The trail then passes the Harold Akey Tentsite, the last established tentsite until the Erving State Forest shelter some 50 miles north. A short distance north the trail climbs East Mountain on switchbacks and continues along the mountain’s ridge before descending to state Route 202.

The next major climb is Mount Tom, 1,202 feet high. The trail continues through the Mount Tom Range, passing over Whiting Peak, Goat Peak, and Mount Nonotuck, before descending to Route 5 on the west side of the Connecticut River.

The river is too deep and wide to cross, and a roadwalk to cross the nearest bridge is about 10 miles. The trail starts well away from the river on the east side and getting to it from the river requires bushwhacking through private land, so finding a boat ride across the river might not be the best idea.

Many thru-hikers shuttle to Northampton, Massachusetts, or Hadley, Massachusetts, to rest and clean up at a hotel, and resupply for the rest of the hike.

The trail east of the river starts in Skinner State Park on Mountain Road in Hadley, and climbs to the Summit House, with restrooms and water, on Mount Holyoke. From there the trail passes over Mount Holyoke, Mount Hitchcock, Bare Mountain, Mount Norwottuck, and Long Mountain through the Mount Holyoke Range. The trail through the range is packed with panoramic views and up and down rock scrambling, with a steep drop and climb between Bare and Norwottuck mountains. The Notch Visitor Center between the two peaks has flush toilets and water. Norwottuck, at 1,106 feet, is the highest peak in the range.

After coming down from the Holyoke Range, the trail meanders gradually up and down before reaching the moderately flat Quabbin Reservoir watershed, the most isolated section of the trail. Four towns were abandoned to fill the reservoir that supplies water for Greater Boston, and the lands around Quabbin are empty and protected.

Farther north the trail climbs Stratton Mountain and Mount Grace, at 1,617 feet the highest peak on the trail, before ending at Royalston Falls and the New Hampshire border.

It’s possible to do 15- to 20-mile days on the trail, making a thru-hike in 14 to 20 days within reach. Because the trail crosses so many roads multi-day hikes with stops at overnight campsites can be combined with daylong section hikes.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water

Permits: No permits are needed to hike the New England Trail.

Camping: Some of the designated camping sites, such as the Richardson-Zlogar Cabin in Massachusetts, require reservations. Fires are not allowed at campsites in Connecticut, and stealth camping along the trail is discouraged. Trail maintainers are working to add more overnight sites.

The sites from south to north are: Godman Group Campsite, Cattails Shelter, Lamentation Mountain Primitive Tentsite, Windsor Locks Scouts Primitive Tentsite, Harold Akey Tentsite, Mt. Holyoke Outing Club Cabin, Wendell State Forest Lean-to, Richardson-Zlogar Cabin, Mt. Grace Lean-to, and TTOR Lean-to at Royalston Falls. Campsite details can be found here.

Campsites are nicely spaced between the southern terminus and Lamentation Mountain Primitive Tentsite and between the Wendell State Forest Lean-to and the TTOR Lean-to at Royalston Falls near the northern terminus. But the long gap between Lamentation Mountain and the Windsor Locks Tentsite may require getting off trail for the night. The same goes for the gap between the Connecticut River and the Wendell State Forest Lean-to.

The Richardson-Zlogar Cabin, with its wide open vista east to Mount Grace and Mount Monadnock, and a beautiful sunrise view, is the gem of the trail’s shelters. The cabin is locked and needs to be reserved online to get the lock code. It’s also possible, but not necessary, to reserve the tentsites as they rarely fill up.

Although the NET website lists the Mt. Holyoke Outing Club Cabin as an overnight site, the guidelines on picking up and returning a key make the cabin an impractical option.

The Windsor Locks tentsite is near Bradley International Airport, and planes taking off frequently passed noisily overhead while I camped there; the lights from one plane lit up my tent.

Water: Few of the campsites have natural water sources, and water can be scarce along the trail from Long Island Sound to the northern end of the Holyoke Range. Some overnight sites have water caches, but it’s best not to rely on them. Water is easier to find north of the Holyoke Range.

Route-finding: The trail is marked with blue blazes in Connecticut, white blazes through Massachusetts. M&M signs (Metacomet and Monadnock, the trail name in Massachusetts before it became the New England National Scenic Trail) are nailed to trees alongside white blazes in northern Massachusetts. Numerous side paths cross the NET, so paying attention to blazes is important. If your mind wanders in thought on trail like my does it’s easy to miss a turn blaze and head down a side path instead of staying on the NET. And keep in mind that sometimes at trail junctions the most heavily used path that lies ahead might not be the NET.

Rivers: The Westfield River in Massachusetts can be waded if the water is low. The roadwalk around the river crossing is 3.7 miles on busy roads, so it’s best to arrange a ride if the river is high. The Connecticut River in Massachusetts can be crossed by roadwalking 10.2 miles along high-speed, high-traffic roads. Some hikers arrange a ride to lodging in Northampton or Hadley after the trail reaches the western bank of the Connecticut, resupply, and resume walking the trail the next day on the eastern bank.

Parking: The NET website has an interactive map that shows parking areas along the trail, describes how many cars each spot fits, whether they’re lots or road shoulders, and provides directions to them.

Trail Angels: Some people along the trail help with rides, lodging, and water caches, but there isn’t a well-established system of hostels and shuttle drivers. Search the New England Scenic Trail Facebook page for people willing to shuttle hikers or post on the page that you’re looking for a ride.

Know Before You Go

On to Canada: It is possible to hike from Long Island Sound in Connecticut to Canada following the NET; the New Hampshire Metacomet & Monadnock Trail and the Monadnock-Sunapee Greenway in Southern New Hampshire; and the Cohos Trail in northern New Hampshire. Several options link the Greenway to the Cohos Trail, with information about them on the NET to Cohos Trail Facebook page.

North or South?: Which direction to hike can depend on the season or how you’re getting to and from the termini. If you’re starting in late winter or early spring setting off at Long Island Sound makes it less likely to encounter snow in the north. Starting in the north during the fall means hiking with the foliage as it changes color north to south.

Arranging transportation to the northern terminus is complicated, while southern terminus transportation is easy because the trail passes through a train station a short walk from the terminus. So hiking south means getting the complicated trip planning out of the way and scoring an easy ride at the end of your hike.

Spur Trail: A ~28-mile NET spur trail runs from near Broomstick Ledges in Guilford to the Connecticut River in Middletown, Connecticut. Once at the river, it’s necessary to backtrack to the main NET. The spur is considered part of the New England Trail, but is it part of a thru-hike? Many thru-hikers walk past the spur trail. The NET website, however, says hikers have to walk every mile of the trail to get an NET finisher patch.

Resupply: Meriden, Connecticut, and Hadley are good jumping-off points for lodging and resupply. Small restaurants and stores on or near the trail also provide food options, but north of Hadley lodging and food stores are far from the trail. The trail passes through the parking lot of Guida’s Restaurant on Route 66 between Beseck and Higby mountains in Connecticut, making it a favorite thru-hiker stop. The trail also passes through the small village of Tariffville, Connecticut, which has some restaurants.

Cell Reception: Cell phone reception is good from Long Island Sound through the northern end of the Holyoke Range. After that it’s good on peaks, but not reliable down low.

Trail Guides: Paper maps of the New England Trail—one for Connecticut, one for Massachusetts—are available here. The maps show trail section mileage but not elevation. The NET online interactive map gives information on camping, directions to trail parking, and section mileage. FarOut has an NET app.

Gun Ranges: Multiple gun ranges and an archery range are near or right next to the trail in Connecticut and Massachusetts.

One of 11: The New England Trail is one of 11 National Scenic Trails. The others are the Appalachian Trail, Arizona Trail, Continental Divide Trail, Florida Trail, Ice Age Trail, Natchez Trace, North Country Trail, Pacific Crest Trail, Pacific Northwest Trail, and Potomac Heritage Trail.

National Park Status: The New England Trail was granted national park status by the U.S. National Park Service in late 2023.

NET’s Origins: The New England Trail was designated a National Scenic Trail in 2009, and is comprised primarily of the historic Mattabesett, Menunkatuk, Metacomet, and Monadnock trails in Connecticut and Massachusetts. Those trail names are still used along sections of the NET.

New England Trail Resources

The New England Trail: Trail website with an interactive map showing campsites and parking. Maps of the trail through Connecticut and Massachusetts are also available.

FarOut: Mobile app of the NET available.

Amtrak

Shoreline East

Metro-North

Peter Pan bus

Greyhound bus

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The Sioux-Hustler trail is a 34-mile loop in northern Minnesota. This trail is within the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW). It features beaver dam crossings, two waterfalls, and plentiful water sources.

Region: Great Lakes Midwest (Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, Superior National Forest, Minnesota)
Length: 34 miles (3-4 days)
Season: Late Spring, Late Summer, Early Fall
Total Elevation Gain: 3,000 feet

Physical Difficulty: Easy

• Rocky and rooty terrain
• Beaver dam crossings
• A few steep but short climbs and descents

Logistical Difficulty: High

• Route not marked
• Permit required
• Remote trailhead

Hiking the Sioux Hustler Trail

The Sioux-Hustler Trail is a great option for intermediate backpackers. The footpath crosses over beaver dams, features two waterfalls, and passes many water sources.

Three friends and I backpacked this loop clockwise in September 2020. Our first night was near the Devil’s Cascade waterfall and subsequent nights were on the shores of Emerald and Shell Lakes. We shared a campsite one night with two smaller backpacking parties.

We heard wolves most nights. We followed a portage to Loon Lake, where we noted moose tracks on the shoreline and said hello to Canada. Occasional fallen trees and six hours of rain made for a challenging second day.

I lost cell service about 30 minutes before arriving at the trailhead. The footpath was not blazed on trees, which caused occasional navigation challenges; cairns and cut logs helped confirm the correct path. There were also beaver dam crossings (a misstep on one ended in knee-deep mud).

Resupply is not an option, as this trail is only accessible by boat or foot. This is a shorter route, so resupply shouldn’t be needed.

How to get to the Sioux-Hustler Trail

Nearest City: Orr, Minnesota (38 miles)
Trailhead: Sioux Hustler Hiking Trail

The Sioux-Hustler trail is a lollipop loop. From the trailhead, it’s about six miles by foot to where the loop begins; go left for a clockwise trip or go right for a counterclockwise trip.

The Sioux-Hustler trailhead (BWCAW entry point 15) is 38 miles northeast of Orr, Minnesota, on US Forest Service roads. You can park overnight at the trailhead.

The nearest airports are Duluth and Minneapolis. Orr is about 145 miles north of Duluth and 280 miles north of Minneapolis. Car rentals are available at both airports; shuttle service between Duluth and the trailhead may be an option from some outfitters in Ely. Lodging and camping are available on the way to Orr.

For our trip, we left Minneapolis around 6:30 a.m. on our entry date and started hiking by 12:30 p.m..

When to Hike the Sioux Hustler Trail

The best times to hike this trail are late spring (May to June) and late summer into early fall (August through September).

Spring hikers can expect mud, wet conditions, and some snow well into May. Depending on the year, thaw/refreeze cycles may cause difficult travel on gravel Forest Service roads.

The trail can be hiked in early summer but mosquitoes may take the joy out of it. Ticks are usually the worst in May and June but may be found anytime the temperatures are above freezing.

Depending on the year, trips in late summer and early fall could be impacted by wildfires.

We began our hike in late September 2020. Daytime temperatures reached into the 50s Fahrenheit and overnight temperatures dipped into the upper 30s and 40s. It rained for about six hours on our second day. Fall colors were starting to peak and bugs were not an issue.

It may be possible to hike later than September but be sure to check the forecast and plan accordingly. Depending on the year, early October may see measurable snow and lakes could already be freezing.

Backpacking this route in winter is not advised due to deep snow and extreme temperatures. Some Forest Service roads and trailheads are not accessible in winter.

Sioux-Hustler Trail Terrain 

The trail crosses forested terrain and wetlands. There are beaver dam crossings and occasional fallen trees to navigate.

Sioux-Hustler Trail Permits

Permits are required to enter the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW). 

Overnight trips beginning May 1 to September 30 require quota permits. Quota permits have a fee associated and are sold first-come, first-served. They go on sale the third Wednesday of January each year.

Before reserving a quota permit, you’ll need a recreation.gov account and to know where you will pick up your permit. Here is a list of permit issue stations. I would recommend a station in Duluth or Cook; be sure to confirm hours as some stations may not be open on weekends.

On the BWCAW webpage, click on the “Explore available permits” button in the “Available Permits” section. 

Choose “Overnight Hike” in the filter dropdown and the date you plan to start.

Scroll to the “Sioux-Hustler Trail (OH)” item. Choose your start date in the grid, click the “Book Now” button, and complete your reservation.

Overnight trips in the off-season (October 1 to April 30) require a free, self-issued permit. Complete the form at the trailhead kiosk, leave a copy in the dropbox, and carry the other copy with you.

Logistics: Camping, Land Management, and Route Finding

Camping: Campsites are first-come, first-served and do not need to be shared with other parties. Most campsites are accessible by water and foot; if a site is already occupied, backpackers may be willing to share. To minimize impact, a maximum of 9 people can stay at campsites in the BWCAW; our intended campsite on day two was at maximum with a guided group of backpackers so we pushed on to another site. Campsite spurs are oftent marked with a cairn and/or a wooden marker. Follow LNT principles by trying to stay in established campsites, but if needed, dispersed / stealth camping is allowed for hikers (see page 7 of this handbook).

Land Management: This trail is mostly in a wilderness area on US Forest Service land. There are no amenities at the trailhead. The trail is only accessible by foot or boat and chainsaws are not allowed in the BWCAW, so fallen trees may not be immediately removed after a storm.

Route Finding: I recommend a GPS track or map and compass for this trail. The footpath is not marked, can disappear due to overgrowth, and crosses multiple beaver dams. Cell service was nonexistent. Be aware that the trail intersects with portages, which may or may not show up on certain maps.

Special Gear: I recommend a bug net and treated clothing or other repellent. Ticks and an obnoxious number of mosquitoes will be present, especially in late spring and early summer.

In recent summers, the Superior National Forest has issued orders requiring bear-proof containers. These orders are posted to their website and Facebook page when required, so be sure to check before heading out.

Know Before You Go

Although it isn’t the most physically challenging, I don’t recommend this route for beginners. The trail is not marked and disappears at times. There may be fallen trees to navigate if there have been recent storms and cell service was nonexistent.

Permits are required from May 1 to September 30, so some advance planning is needed, though you don’t need to reserve campsites.

If hiking in the shoulder seasons, be sure to check the forecast; snow may be present well into May and lakes may start freezing over as early as October.

Bear-proof containers may be required if there has been increased black bear activity. Check the Superior National Forest website and Facebook page for updates.

Resources

Sioux-Hustler Trail Permits at recreation.gov

Friends of the Boundary Waters

A list of local outfitters 

Superior National Forest

Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness

Sioux-Hustler Trail

Maps

• Fisher map F-16
• McKenzie maps 12, 13 and 14
• US Forest Service  

Andrea Breitung lives in St. Paul, Minnesota, and is an avid year-round hiker, biker, and camper (yes, even in winter). She started backpacking in 2019 and more recently began dabbling in bikepacking. When she’s not outside, she’s reading, snuggling her dogs, and consuming unhealthy amounts of chocolate.

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The Great Divide Trail is a 1,123km (697-mile) Canadian continuation of the Continental Divide Trail. It starts at the U.S.-Canada border at Waterton Lakes National Park and traverses the Canadian Rockies before ending at Kakwa Provincial Park, and typically takes around 50 days. 

Region: Mountain West, International (Canadian Rockies)
Distance: 697 miles (42-60 days)

Season: Summer 
Total Elevation Gain: ~138,000 feet

Hiking the Great Divide Trail

The Great Divide Trail packs in some of the most prestigious, remote, and beautiful hikes in Canada into one package. The Great Divide Trail Association calls it the “wildest thru-hike,” and it’s not far off. The trail is broken up into seven sections, described below.

Section A: Waterton Monument to Coleman, Alberta

There is little warm-up on this trail. Right from day one there are substantial climbs up to alpine ridges and descents to crystal-blue lakes. The difficulty is increased as a massive portion of Waterton Lakes National Park was burned in a fire during the summer of 2017. Hiking through the burn can ramp up the temperature. On around day three or four, one of the hardest climbs of the entire trail begins as you ascend La Coulette Ridge, an off-trail climb up several peaks. The combination of over 5,000 feet of gain and off-trail scree travel means most people will only go 10-15 miles this day. After the ridge you will stay at much lower elevations for the rest of the section and most of the notable climbs will be out of the way. 

I recommend taking a zero in Coleman. Blairmore is a short way down the highway but doesn’t attract nearly the same amount of hikers. Check out Safe Haven BnB and the Paddock Inn; both are aware of GDT hikers and will usually have a special deal. If you need to shop, you will need to head to Blairmore, but it is a quick hitch or inexpensive cab

Top Alternate Pick: Barnaby Ridge is a continuation of La Coulette Ridge that continues traversing at ridge crest for several more miles. There is no water unless you drop down to Grizzly Lake so plan accordingly. This alternate will normally add a full day, is exceptionally difficult, and does require some scrambling.

Section B: Coleman, Alberta, to Boulton Creek, Alberta

This section has recently undergone a massive trail building campaign and has been rerouted to avoid a substantial road walk down a logging road. Starting out the section is a short walk down a dirt road before peeling off onto the High Rock Trail, which will be officially open for the summer of 2022. From here you climb up to the beautiful Window Mountain Lake and then along huge a rock wall for several miles. There are no camping reservations needed for Section B, which makes it very easy to plan. There is a lot of hiking in meadows and the flowers can be exceptional at the beginning of July. Section B also features Tornado Pass, one of the more precarious climbs with the final ascent around 30% grade up scree. Section B ends in around 20 miles of road walking, but it’s a dirt road that doesn’t see a ton of traffic. You can usually get a few bars of service here. 

The only option for a zero is at the Boulton Creek car campground. Choosing a powered site is key, otherwise you will spend your entire zero charging all your devices while sitting outside the camp store. There is no internet or phone service at the campground.

Section C: Boulton Creek, Alberta, to Field, British Columbia

This section is essentially most of Canada’s world-renowned trails packed into one section. The Rockwall Trail, Mount Assiniboine, Healy/Ball Pass, Egypt Lake … all of these trails are bucket-list hikes, which means reservations are extremely hard to get for certain campsites, and all sites through here need to be booked ahead. This is the busiest section of the entire trail, but most hikers are unaware of the Great Divide Trail. Some people break up this section by taking a zero in Banff, which adds a bit of distance, so plan accordingly. This section has some of the most spectacular, sweeping alpine views and the trail is in great condition. It feels easier than others due to the exceptional trail condition, particularly in contrast to some of the later sections with river crossings and bushwhacking. 

Many people will choose to zero in the town of Lake Louise, a short hitch from the town of Field where Section D starts. There is a great hostel in Lake Louise, and they have the cheapest food and beer in town. 

Top Alternate Pick: Northover Ridge. From the outset of the section you will head up Northover Ridge, which is the true Continental Divide. This typically adds a full day but has some of the best views on the entire trail.

Section D: Field, British Columbia, to Saskatchewan Crossing, Alberta

Starting off Section D you have a choice between taking the original trail and the Kiwetinok Alternate. The original trail is around 20 miles of overgrown roads, and I’ve heard it can be very mentally challenging and a slow go. The Kiwetinok Alternate starts on the Iceline Trail. I took this because I knew how beautiful the Iceline Trail is, but this also involves booking a hard-to-get site at Little Yoho. Some people will hike all the way over the Kiwetinok Pass, but this is an exceptionally long day with over 6,000 feet of gain. After the Kiwetinok Alternate rejoins the official trail, it almost exclusively follows the valley and river floodplain. After fording the Saskatchewan River more times than you can count, you will be near the end of the section. Large portions of this section are on the floodplain so expect wet feet and be careful with the crossings as the water is cold and certain areas are deep. Big miles are easy on this section, and there isn’t a lot of elevation gain with exception of the Kiwetinok Alternate. 

Saskatchewan Crossing Resort is the only option for accommodation and resupply at the end of this section. The resort does not have cell service and the internet sometimes works, but only to check email. The resort will hold a resupply box for a fee, but will waive it if you stay the night. It is expensive but most hikers will zero here and play endless Ping-Pong in the game room. The resort store has a decent selection of food, but it is insanely expensive; a fuel can costs nearly $20. 

Top Alternate Pick: Kiwetinok. If you want to see glaciers, this is the trail for you. From here you will ascend over a pass and descend through a large boulder field. There is a very steep climb and then another bushwhacking descent. The alternate is relatively new, but the trail is being broken in and it is very well flagged.

Additionally, I recommend the Collie Creek alternate. It shaves off a handful of logging road miles but does involve a river crossing. The blueberries can be great on this alternate.

Section E: Saskatchewan Crossing, Alberta, to Jasper, Alberta

This is another great section for anyone looking for a shorter hike and who doesn’t want to deal with campsite reservations. The hike heads steeply up the Owen Creek drainage and then leaves you with long alpine travel and sporadic trail.

These are some of the biggest views on the biggest terrain of the trail. The route-finding is easy and can be good practice if you are new to off-trail hiking. You will hit the official high point at mile 2,725 on the ironically named Unnamed Pass. You can continue on this section without reservations (but with an Alberta Public Lands Camping Pass) all the way Cataract Pass. After descending Cataract Pass you will be on the Brazeau Loop, a popular multiday hike.

The trail is in great shape and the campsites are nice, but you will need to make reservations. From here you will travel through the Maligne Valley and toward the aquamarine Maligne Lake. Only one party is allowed to travel through the valley per day due to the caribou habitat. Link up with other hikers on the Facebook page ahead of time to coordinate the permit. Arriving at Maligne Lake means there is only about 30 miles left before entering the wonderful town of Jasper, Alberta.

This is on the Skyline Trail, the most popular multiday trail in the park. Again, reservations come at a premium, but some people will hike the entire Skyline Trail in a day. It is long but isn’t exceptionally difficult, as the trail is probably the most manicured section of the entire Great Divide Trail. Afterward there is a bit of a walk through the town trails before arriving in town. Alternatively, you can cab into town but you will be missing some very beautiful lakes and great swimming spots. 

Jasper is the biggest town of the entire trail and has several gear stores, restaurants, and bars. There are two hostels in town, and they will both hold resupply boxes. You can easily resupply from one of the three grocery stores here if you don’t want to mail a box. 

Top Alternate Pick: From the Unnamed Pass and high point, head up the east ridge a few hundred feet for one of the best views you will probably ever see.

Six Passes Alternate: Although closed for 2022, this alternate will hopefully reopen in the future. Rather than descending through the Maligne Valley the trail goes up and over six remote passes, and is entirely off-trail with route finding. It is very difficult and requires good navigation and route-finding skills, as well as confidence in traveling without cairns or flagging. Only one party has been allowed to pass through per day, so the impact has been minimal through this area.

Sections F & G: Jasper, Alberta, to Kakwa Lake, British Columbia

The northernmost sections of the Great Divide Trail combine everything you have already experienced but now it’s more remote and more difficult. On my 2021 hike we only saw two other parties over the course of 11 days.

Until at least 2025, Section F and Section G will need to be linked together. The Berg Lake Trail is a very popular weekend trip and is the delimiter between the two sections. This trail provided access to the highway but was damaged due to extreme flooding. These two sections are typically done in 10-14 days. Leaving Jasper, many people will hitch or cab to avoid a 20-mile road walk. From here you will start heading toward the North Boundary Trail. Section F is relatively flat compared to other sections but can be slow due to mud and deadfall. This is also the first time you will have sizable river crossings that go over the knees and can be quite swift. 

Transitioning into Section G means more river crossings, and even more remote terrain. There will be long meadow walks with sporadic blazes, meaning a lot of it will be choose your own adventure. There are some notable climbs toward the end of the section, until you eventually reach the Jackpine Valley. Until 2021 the Jackpine Valley was one of the most infamous and slowest parts of the trail, with a long bushwhack typically lasting over a day. Thankfully the GDTA has done substantial trail building here and hikers will maintain their sanity. Eventually, you will end at a beautiful backcountry hut at Kakwa Lake. From here it is about 18 miles to the trailhead. From the trailhead it is several hours via logging road to the highway, you will need high-clearance 4×4 to get here. If you need a ride, you can pre-arrange a pickup with Robson Valley Adventures. 

Great Divide Trail Permits

Permits are one of the most challenging aspects of planning a GDT hike. There is no thru-hiker permit; you must book every site like a normal weekend hiker. The trail passes through Banff, Kootenay, Yoho, Jasper, and Waterton national parks; Peter Lougheed, Mount Assiniboine and Mount Robson provincial parks; and some public lands. All of these parks require permits and they are all booked separately on different days.

Each year the reservation days change. In 2022 the national parks reservations were between January 28 and February 2. Peter Lougheed releases permits 90 days in advance, Mount Assiniboine releases permits 60 days in advance, and Mount Robson is closed until 2025. However, you can still hike the Great Divide Trail without camping within Mount Robson Provincial Park.

Booking these permits is the same process for everyone wanting a backcountry reservation, so they are in extremely high demand. Most sites will be booked for the entire summer by midday of the reservation day. If you want to hike the GDT it is essential to be available these days, and ideally plan your entire day around these reservations. 

The Parks Canada reservations are made online, but they can also be made over the phone. On reservation day calling will typically go to voicemail, but they will call you back in the order they receive the messages. Always leave a phone message; it can be drastically faster than using the online portal.

Plan out a flexible itinerary if you can’t get your first choice of campsite. Section C of the trail is the most competitive so many people will start here and plan the rest of the hike around these reservations. Another high-profile section is the northern part of Section E on the Brazeau Loop and the Skyline Trail in Jasper National Park. 

The highest profile site is Floe Lake in Kootenay National Park, which is part of the Rockwall Trail. Another option is staying at Wolverine Pass, which is just outside the park boundary, so it doesn’t require a reservation. There are no facilities, however, and it does include another 2,500 feet of gain.

As mentioned previously, the Skyline Trail is very competitive. Curator campground seems to be the busiest, but choosing Watchtower campground is a good alternative and is only slightly off trail. Lastly, only one party per day is allowed to go through the Maligne Valley, just south of the Skyline Trail. These permits should be made over the phone with the Jasper Backcountry Office at 1-877-737-3783.

Online, Parks Canada requires a reservation Access Point, which is basically a trailhead, but it can get confusing on a thru-hike. This is where planning is necessary. When creating your itinerary, you will need to reference the Parks Canada reservation page ahead of time to see the associated trailheads for each campsite. As you will be traversing multiple parks, several of these sections will need to be booked as independent trips.

Another speed bump is dealing with the dreaded daylight hours error that the online reservation system will trigger. Essentially, the Parks Canada system doesn’t believe you can start at your chosen Access Point and make it to the campground you are trying to reserve. Any distances beyond 19 miles (~30km) will typically trigger this. There are two ways to avoid this: the best option is to chat with someone on the phone by calling the park directly. Otherwise, choose a different Access Point that is closer to the campsite you are trying to book; the Access Point doesn’t really need to be the trailhead you are actually starting from.

If you have multiple days of the daylight hours error, you will need to book each night as a standalone reservation. In other words, choose your Access Point and one campsite, then add to cart. Then for your next night choose another Access Point and then the next campsite. You will incur a reservation fee for each of these even though you are trying to link together a trip. In the past, Parks Canada has refunded these fees if you can show you are on one sequential trip. 

Reservations for the provincial parks are much more straightforward as you will typically only be within the park for a night or two, but they can be just as competitive. Additionally, if you choose to take a zero day at the end of Section B, you will be within Peter Lougheed Provincial Park and will need to book a car camping site. 

If you aren’t hiking the full trail and don’t want to battle for reservations, there are still plenty of sections to hike. Section A only requires a few reservations, and they are easy to come by. Section B doesn’t require any reservations at all. Section D can be done without reservations but having one of the first night will make it easier on the Kiwetinok Alternate. The first half of Section E can be done without any reservations. Section F and Section G also require very few reservations and are easy to reserve. 

With the exception of the Alberta Public Lands Camping Pass and a Parks Canada Discovery Pass, access is free along the entire trail and you only need to pay for campsite reservations.

A Parks Canada Discovery Pass is required for access to national parks, and while most people won’t necessarily have the pass with them it’s a good idea to have a picture of it on your phone. They can be purchased here.

Remote parts of Sections B, E and G will require an Alberta Public Lands Camping Pass. These are $30 and can be booked here.

How to get to the Great Divide Trail 

Nearest City: Calgary, Alberta (169 miles)
Trailhead / Terminus 1: Waterton Lakes National Park. Map it here
Trailhead / Terminus 2: Kakwa Lake Provincial Park. Map it here

The Southern Terminus of the Great Divide Trail is relatively easy to access. It’s in the town of Waterton and accessible by any vehicle. From the Calgary Airport it takes about three hours, but note that you can’t leave a vehicle in Waterton unless you are doing a short section and returning in a few days. 

There are a few options of getting to Waterton for hikers flying in from Calgary. First, is the Airport Shuttle Express, which goes from the airport directly to Waterton National Park. Secondly, is Mountain Man Mikes, a local shuttle that can take you from Calgary to Pincher Creek, Alberta. From Pincher Creek you can take a cab to Waterton National Park for around $100. 

The Northern Terminus of the Great Divide Trail is extremely remote, which means some hikers end their hike in Jasper, Alberta, rather than the terminus in Kakwa Provincial Park. From Jasper you can find multiple shuttles to Edmonton or Calgary, where you can access international airports.

The actual terminus trailhead in Kakwa Provincial Park is 46 miles down a very rough logging road. High clearance and 4×4 are required. Additionally, the trail is very overgrown. You will scratch your vehicle multiple times if attempting to drive to the trailhead. It is also a very slow drive; in 2021 it took a lifted pickup over three hours to access the trailhead. The turn off the highway is on a very remote section of Highway 16, near the town of McBride. From there, the closest city is Prince George, British Columbia, about two hours away. 

Robson Valley Adventures is a local hunting outfitter in the area and has picked up hikers in the past. They do charge a few hundred dollars and availability is limited. They can be reached via Facebook here. They can also drive you to Prince George, British Columbia, or Jasper, Alberta.

When to Hike the Great Divide Trail

The hiking season on the Great Divide Trail is very short. Most people start at the end of June or beginning of July and are off trail by mid-September. The average start date is July 1, and with a 50-day itinerary most people finish in mid-August. Starting in early June means substantial snowpack through avalanche terrain. Starting in late July means you might be hiking into late September, increasing the likelihood of sustained snowfall and bitter temperatures. 

At all times on the Great Divide Trail, hikers should be prepared for snowfall, and as the summer winds down the likelihood of snowfall drastically increases. It is not uncommon for several snowfalls to occur throughout the summer, all with measurable amounts. Additionally, it’s common for temperatures to go below 20F in mid-to-late August. 

Great Divide Trail Navigation

The go-to navigation on the Great Divide Trail is the FarOut (previously Guthook) app. All of the alternates are up to date and it works along the entire trail. However, receiving updates and comments can be hard to come by given that there are only a handful of spots along the entire trail with service. This is a great reason to bring a satellite messenger like a Garmin InReach.

As with all tech, it’s important to have some kind of backup and know how to use it. The Great Divide Trail Association has free topo maps of the entire trail. Just make sure you know how to use a map and compass before heading out, and print the maps with a laser printer so they don’t bleed if they get wet/rained on. We mailed each section’s maps in our resupply boxes.

Great Divide Trail Terrain 

With around 138,000 feet of elevation change, the Great Divide Trail terrain is constantly changing. Hikers will travel through alpine meadows, scree fields, and valley trail networks. A substantial amount of the trail is at or above treeline, with sweeping alpine views. Only about 100 hikers attempt the full trail each year, leaving some sections very remote and quite rugged. The remoteness also means trail maintenance can be very sporadic. Part of this means there are several areas with long stretches of deadfall. There are sections with route-finding and off-trail travel but most of these sections will be on alternates. If you follow the official route you can expect less than 5% of the trail to be true route-finding.

Great Divide Trail Resupply Strategy 

A resupply strategy is necessary on the Great Divide Trail. Throughout the trail there are five true resupply points, with a few other options if necessary. These resupply points will range from towns such as Jasper, Alberta, to car campgrounds with a small camp store. The shortest section is around 60 miles, while the last section is 173 miles. Mail drops are the best option. While it’s possible to resupply directly from all of these places, it’s extremely expensive and very limited. For example, at Saskatchewan Crossing (at the end of Section D), a pack of Pop-Tarts is $12. 

Currently all resupply points (except Boulton Creek at the end of Section B) accept resupply boxes. This can either be at the post office as general delivery or by arranging it with your accommodation. Access to these resupply points is relatively easy, and any road walking will be under three hours. Most people will hitch as some spots are on a busy highways with little to no shoulder. 

One thing to note is the snail pace of Canada Post to some of these resupply locations. A few locations are very remote and may only receive their mail once a week; if you miss the cutoff day this could potentially be a two-week delay. In general, try to have your resupply boxes arrive a month early. Also, I highly suggest mailing them from within Canada to avoid any problems with the border. Canada Post is exceptionally slow compared to the United States Postal Service so plan accordingly.

Great Divide Trail Logistics: Zero Days, Water, Bear Safety

Zero Days: Zero-day accommodation is part of the other preparation that must be done for the Great Divide Trail. With a very short hiking season and limited places to stay, accommodation for a zero-day can be very competitive. As soon as you have your itinerary penciled in, make your bookings for zero-day accommodation. Just make sure you can change it if your finalized campsite reservations alter your plan. The busiest spots will be Boulton Creek, Lake Louise, and Jasper. Finding a place to stay in Coleman can be easier but take note of when the Sinister 7 ultramarathon is taking place as the entire town will be booked up. 

Boulton Creek books up fast, so try to book your campsite the day it opens up. Reserving a powered site is worth it. Also check the map of the campground as some sites are a 10–15-minute walk to showers and the camp store.

If you are staying at the HI-hostel in Lake Louise and in Jasper, consider getting a Hostelling International membership. You will end up saving money if you stay two nights at each of the locations. Both of these hostels will fill up and last-minute bookings can be impossible in places like Jasper, so book these early. 

Lastly, Saskatchewan Crossing Resort will likely be your most expensive accommodation, but can be a great place to hang out with other hikers as it’s the only option other than stealth camping outside the park boundary.

Water: One of the best parts of hiking the Great Divide Trail is the abundant, wonderful quality of water all along the trail. It is very rare to go 10 miles without access to flowing water, and many sources are glacier fed. Most hikers will carry 2L or less and only a few campsites along the entire trail are dry.

Bear Safety: The entire Great Divide Trail travels through grizzly and black bear territory. Bear-proof food storage is necessary, whether you use a bear can or an Ursack. Several campgrounds will have bear lockers in Section C, but outside of this section they are very limited. The PCT method won’t cut it as you will sometimes be above treeline or there won’t be adequate trees for a proper food hang. 

Note: Permits and resupply are the other major logistical issues on this trail, which we covered above.

Know Before You Go

Camping Reservations: We cannot stress enough the monumental task of camping reservations, so have this all lined up before they go live. This means you can’t really adjust your itinerary once it’s booked, so be honest with yourself about your comfort of hiking in snow if you are heading out early. 

Bugs: The bugs can be life-altering. Most hikers will bring a bug head net to keep some sanity. Bug spray can have up to 30% DEET in Canada; if you want anything stronger make sure to purchase it ahead.

Weather: Lastly, prepare for weather. Sustained rain and/or snowfall is almost certainly going to happen. Decent rain gear and strategies for handling moisture and cold weather will pay their dividends.  

To recap, the Great Divide Trail doesn’t have the same kind of feel compared to the Triple Crown trails and only has around 100 thru-hike attempts per year. You will see some other thru-hikers if you start on the popular days like July 1, but once you are mid-hike, most people around you won’t even know about this trail.  

With long sections and heavy food carries, it is far from the easiest trail out there, and without any phone service and limited spots to bail it can be intimidating for new hikers. That being said, if you are looking for long stretches of uninterrupted raw wilderness and countless astounding views this is the trail for you.

Additional Great Divide Trail Resources

The Great Divide Trail Association has sample itineraries and resources for planning a trip. They also run the Great Divide Trail Hikers Facebook page, which has updates on closures, trail status, weather, and other information you might want to know before and during a hike. It’s also a great place to meet up with other hikers. 

Great Divide Trail Association

Great Divide Trail Hikers Facebook

Permits and Reservations

Parks Canada Reservations

BC Parks Reservations

Alberta Parks Reservations

Parks Canada Discovery Pass

Alberta Public Lands Camping Pass

Accommodations

Safe Haven B&B

Paddock Inn

Lake Louise HI Hostel

Saskatchewan Crossing Resort

Jasper Town Hostel

Jasper HI Hostel

Shuttles

Mountain Man Mikes

Robson Valley Adventures

Calgary Airport Shuttle

Austin is a hiker, snowboarder, and student living in Nelson, British Columbia. He is a weekend hiker turned thru-hiker after his 2021 NOBO GDT hike and is happy to call the West Kootenay Mountains his home.

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The Cohos Trail is a 170 mile point-to-point trail from the United States/Canadian border in New Hampshire south to Crawford Notch. Along the trail, hikers will find maintained shelters, White Mountain National Forest tent sites, and hiker-friendly campgrounds. It is routinely hiked SOBO or NOBO in 10-16 days. 

Region: New England (New Hampshire)
Distance: 170 miles (10-16 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Weather changes in the White Mountains must be monitored
• Rocky climbs in the southern third of the trail
• Cumulative elevation makes for near-continuous climbing and descending

Logistical Difficulty: Difficult

• Northern and southern termini are separated by a 2.5-hour car ride; shuttles are often utilized for a car drop
• Minimal resupply options. Mail or in-person drop-offs should be utilized to minimize pack weight
• No permit required; parking must be paid for if leaving a vehicle at the Davis Path Trailhead (southern terminus in Crawford Notch)

Season: Summer, Fall
Elevation (average): ~2,300 feet
Total Elevation Gain: ~33,000 feet

Hiking the Cohos Trail

The Cohos Trail was first envisioned in 1978 by founder Kim Robert Nilsen. The trail network was eventually realized with the help of private, state, and federal landowners and the hard work of countless volunteers.  Its intention was to give access to the far northern reaches of New Hampshire.  This trail has been a bucket list item of mine for some time, having been an avid White Mountains hiker for years.

I started my hike the second week of August with the intention of avoiding the worst of the bugs and the heat.  I successfully dodged the insects, but the heat became another story as a heat wave built during my hike. Given the ever-changing weather of the north, I packed for a variety of conditions.  I started my hike at the northern terminus, reveling in the sight of the international border markings along the trail as I looped the Fourth Connecticut Lake, the official start miles of the Cohos Trail.

As I worked my way south, I was pleasantly surprised to find yellow markers and signs lining much of the trail and intersections.  The Cohos Trail Association works each year to make navigation a bit easier.  I did refer to my SOBO Databook, the paper map and my Avenza app frequently throughout the trip as the trail shares terrain with snowmobile passages, ATV trails, local trails, and eventually White Mountain National Forest trails.

I spent 8 days reveling in the beauty of this trail, hiking into the White Mountain National Forest on day 7. At this point, I was paying close attention to the higher summit forecast as I would be hiking the southern, exposed flank of the Presidential Range in the days to come. The remnants of a tropical storm affected my decision to get off trail and come back in drier and safer conditions. The weather in the WMNF is volatile year round and hikers should be prepared and respect the forecast.

Nonetheless, this trail delivered in its remote nature, friendly town environment (the locals love hikers) and varied terrain. I will hike this trail again, most likely by section to see what I missed along the way. This trail requires hikers to be fit and comfortable carrying additional gear. This is not safe for “light and fast” under most conditions. Some nights on trail, I was sleeping under only the mesh portion of my tent, while other nights required the rain fly, long underwear, and my quilt. This is part of what makes this trail such an adventure.

How to Get to the Cohos Trail

Nearest City: Pittsburg at the northern terminus and Bartlett at the southern terminus

Northern Terminus: US Port of Entry/Fourth Connecticut Lake Trail

Southern Terminus: Davis Path Trailhead

Hikers who prefer to hike from the northern terminus at the US/Canadian border usually leave a car at the Davis Path Trailhead in Bartlett, then shuttle to the start. That way you have a car waiting at the end.  This was my choice, so I paid a shuttle driver to take me from Bartlett to Pittsburg and drop me at the border patrol station. The Cohos Trail starts behind the station. I hired Maura from Maura at Your Service.  Shuttles are pricey (around $220.00) as the ride is approximately 2 1/2 hours from terminus to terminus. That said, I didn’t have to bother a friend or family member to deal with the car drop situation. 

Hikers wishing to start at the southern terminus and end at the border may leave cars at the border patrol station with permission and a note on the dash.  Be prepared for no cell service at both termini.  I recommend having your plans for a ride or shuttle well established before you start.

When to Hike the Cohos Trail

The best time to hike this trail is after black fly season. This tiny insect can ruin a hike in June and early July. Hike this trail in July and August if you only have warm weather backpacking gear. Hike it in September if you want to see the beginnings of an amazing foliage season in the far north.  This trail can be hiked later in the season, however winter gear (warmer sleep system, microspikes, winter clothing) should be carried. The average temperature in Pittsburg in October at low elevation is 53 degrees.  

Cohos Trail Terrain 

The Cohos Trail is a mix of snowmobile trails (essentially wide grassy ways, some have been trimmed by caretakers), dirt trails shared with ATVs, jeep roads, forested single track, and rocky mountain trails. There really is a little something for everyone out here. The northern 100 miles have the easiest terrain (but still lots of ups and downs) while you will start experiencing more rocks and roots once you pass into the Nash Stream Forest and White Mountain National Forest. The highest point on the trail is Mt. Eisenhower (accessed by a .1 mile spur trail) and you will be in the true alpine zone here. There is a “high peaks” option for the Cohos, taking you along the Southern Presidential Range to Mt. Washington. Here you will experience breathtaking views of the Whites, but be prepared for being exposed to the elements all day.

Cohos Trail Resupply Strategy 

Most hikers choose to send themselves at least one resupply box during this hike. The private campgrounds, Percy Lodge, and Stark Village Inn will accept resupply boxes as long as you contact them first, as does the Jefferson post office.  There is only one “on trail” resupply option in the first 100 miles at Young’s General Store in Pittsburg.  After that, it’s a long push to the Old Corner Store in Jefferson  and the Bretton Woods Market & Deli where you can resupply.  A hitch is hard to grab in the northern part of the state simply due to lack of traffic. Hitches to Colebrook are possible if you are patient.  Here you will find a grocery store and restaurants.  Expect to lose a half day on this option.

I started my hike with a five-day food carry. You can do a full resupply at Young’s, plus grab fresh fruit or a sub. I collected my resupply at the Percy Lodge and Campground in Stark, about 1.2 miles off trail. I had a room booked here and had mailed the owner, Kathleen, my box the week before.  She was starting a hiker box too!  Once you are done with the Kilkenny Ridge, you could completely resupply in Jefferson and Bretton Woods if you aren’t picky.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water, and Gear

Permits:  The Cohos Trail is located on private, state, and federal forest land.  Permits are not required, however there are certain camping rules that MUST be adhered to in order to keep this trail accessible to the public.

Camping: This trail is on WMNF federal land from the southern terminus through the Kilkenny Ridge (South Pond in Stark).  You may use dispersed campsites on this section.  Visit the PDF on Backcountry Camping Rules for full details on finding your own non-established campsite.  The only exception in this area is the Pondicherry Wildlife Refuge in Jefferson.

North of South Pond in Stark, you must camp in designated areas only.  This includes the Cohos Trail Association Shelters, established campgrounds, and tent sites.  A complete list can be found on the Cohos Trail Association Places to Stay Along the Trail page.

I utilized a combination of shelters and campgrounds for my hike.  I stayed at Deer Mountain Campground, Lake Francis Campground, Rudy’s Campground, Panorama Shelter, Old Hermit Shelter, Percy Lodge, Unknown Pond tent site, and Israel River Campground.  I have also stayed south of Mt. Martha by following the backcountry campsite rules. Most campgrounds have quarter showers and laundry. The tent site and shelters I stayed at all had well-maintained privies. 

Water: Water can be found by using the Cohos Trail map.  I found many of the water sources on the map were in fact running (albeit slowly) despite the drought being experienced in this area.  My longest water carries (3Ls) were up to Panorama Shelter and from Unknown Pond tent site to Jefferson Village.  The Kilkenny Ridge and Davis Path are notoriously dry so do not fail to fill up at Unknown Pond or Dry River.  The SOBO and NOBO databooks, available as a PDF that I uploaded to my phone, were invaluable for knowing where my next reliable water source was located. I filtered water for my entire trip. 

Know Before You Go

 The Cohos Trail is a phenomenal adventure for those seeking to step away from the crowds.  It is not unusual to be alone for days at a time. I spent one of 8 days with two other SOBO hikers.  I did start to see day hikers as I came into Jefferson, but the region north of here is largely unexplored by backpackers and day hikers alike.  Navigation is getting better, but I found the Avenza app and maps an invaluable tool many times at intersections.  Ultimately, this trail is worth the logistical planning if you are seeking solitude.

Cohos Trail Resources

Cohos Trail Association – Visit their Facebook page for the most up-to-date information

White Mountain National Forest Camping 

Hiker-friendly campgrounds:

Percy Lodge and Campground

Rudy’s Campground (hiker camp area and amazing sunsets)

Lake Francis Campground

Israel River Campground

Shuttle Service: Maura at Your Service

Avenza App – Cohos Trail map is available for use offline

Heather is a lifelong outdoors woman, exploring trails as a child and young adult on horseback.  She transitioned to hiking, backpacking, and ultra running in the last 8 years and is eager to continue exploring.  Her “playground” is the White Mountains of New Hampshire and trails throughout New England.  When not exploring, she enjoys photography, writing, and spending time with her people and animals. Follow her on Instagram.

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The Lost Coast Trail is a 26.4-mile point-to-point backpacking route along California’s North Coast. It is a rugged trail that traverses sandy beaches, boulder fields, and coastal bluffs, and it can be hiked in 2-3 days

Region: Pacific West (King Range National Conservation Area, California)
Distance: 26.4 miles (2-3 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate 

Logistical Difficulty: Difficult 

Season: Year-round
Elevation (average): Sea level
Total Elevation Gain: 1,000 feet

Hiking the Lost Coast Trail

The Lost Coast Trail covers 25 miles of undeveloped coastal wilderness, only 5 hours north of the San Francisco Bay Area. This hike is moderately strenuous and is perfect for the hiker who loves a logistical challenge. Starting at Mattole Beach and ending at Black Sands Beach, you will experience breathtaking views of the coast, including the Punta Gorda lighthouse (decommissioned in 1951), bountiful tide pools, and a lively colony of elephant seals. 

Based on the strong wind coming from the north, it is usually recommended that hikers follow the trail from north to south. However, if you are looking for a quieter wilderness experience, hiking from south to north may offer you the opportunity to hike and camp away from other groups and is a totally viable option. Each creek offers drastically different camping experiences, from the sunrises and sunsets to the wildlife that frequent that specific stretch of coastline. Wildlife that are often encountered along the trail include sea birds, sea lions, elephant seals, harbor seals, river otters, black bears, blacktail deer, and the occasional Roosevelt elk.

During the summer of 2021, I spent collectively over a month on the Lost Coast Trail as a volunteer. I have hiked a variety of routes utilizing many different trailheads, in various weather conditions, with drastically different itineraries. My most enjoyable jaunt on the LCT, however, was hiking from Mattole to Black Sands with my brother in just a day and a half. 

Lost Coast Trail Permits

Wilderness permits are required for any overnight stay in the King Range Wilderness and can be obtained through Recreation.gov. Permits for the entire year (October to October) are released on October 1 at 7am PST, and the summer season is typically booked within a few hours. One person can reserve up to 5 permits for their group. When reserving a permit online, you will need to know which trailheads you plan to enter and exit at and a nightly itinerary for where you plan to camp. While this information is required for the online process, your selections are only used for safety purposes, in case of missing persons reports, or accidents, and will not be enforced by BLM rangers. Once you enter the wilderness area, you have “hiker’s discretion,” meaning that you can choose to hike as far as you want or camp wherever you choose (as long as it is 10 feet above the high tide line). Additionally, this means that you can stay in the King Range Wilderness area for up to 14 days after your permit start date. If you love it out there, extend your trip and explore one of the many inland routes!

Because permits sell out quickly, many attempt to start their hike a few days before or after their permit start date, assuming that they can do so legally. However, the permit system used by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) in this region allows for 60 people to enter per day during peak season (May 15 to September 15) and 30 people to enter per day during non-peak season (September 16 to May 14). This means that if you attempt to start your hike on any day other than your permit start date, your permit is invalid and you may be ticketed by a BLM ranger stationed at either trailhead. The Lost Coast is on an extremely narrow sliver of coastline, therefore the impact that over-recreation has on the landscape can be extreme. If too many people attempt to start on a specific date, they will most likely get stuck at the same camping areas by the tides, resulting in overcrowding and damage to the resource area. 

The biggest piece of advice that I can offer regarding permits is to check the predicted tides for your preferred dates! Many people don’t know that tide predictions are extremely accurate (even a year or more in advance) and can allow you to mitigate unfavorable tidal conditions by choosing days with low tides under 3 feet and slow tidal swings. Here’s the Lost Coast Trail permit page.

How to get to the Lost Coast Trail

Nearest City: Eureka, California (50 miles)

Mattole Beach Trailhead

Black Sands Beach Trailhead

The most popular option to navigate this point-to-point route is hiring a shuttle service. These services are privately operated and are not affiliated with the BLM. It is recommended that you book your shuttle far in advance in order to guarantee a spot. Typically, prices are about $100 per person. (Expensive, yes, but definitely worth it to most folks.) Usually, hikers will meet their shuttle drivers early in the morning at Black Sands Beach day use parking lot, where they will leave their car, and be driven along unmaintained, windy dirt roads for two hours to start at Mattole Trailhead.

There are three services that are legally insured to shuttle hikers between trailheads along the Lost Coast:

• Lost Coast Adventure Tours
• Mendo Insider Tours
• Bill’s Lost Coast Shuttle Service: 707-442-1983

If you’re a fan of long car rides, have an extra day to station your cars before you start your hike, and would prefer to save your money, you may also consider the method of leaving a car at each trailhead. The biggest thing to consider in this option is your vehicle’s ability to drive on windy, unpaved mountain roads for hours. 

1. If you have a high-clearance vehicle (4WD/AWD recommended, necessary in the winter), you may choose to take this route between trailheads. (About 2 hours). This is also the route that the shuttle drivers will take. *Note: I have never driven my personal vehicle on Ettersburg Road or Wilder Ridge Road, and I would recommend that people from out of the area choose the second option that follows the 101. MAP IT HERE

2. If your vehicle does not have high clearance, you will need to take this route between trailheads. (About 2 hours, 40 minutes). This is my preferred route and the route I suggest to all visitors from out of town. There will still be some unpaved sections along Mattole Road, but nothing unmanageable. MAP IT HERE

Accessing the coast from any other inland trailhead requires high-clearance AWD vehicles to navigate the unmaintained and unpaved roads within the King Range. It is also worth noting that cell phone service is usually unavailable and that AAA will not be able to reach your vehicle in case of an emergency. 

Another option is organizing up a key-swap with hikers who are hiking the opposite direction as you. I have no personal experience with this, but it seems to be a fairly popular option for some trusting individuals. If this is something you would consider, you may have luck finding a buddy in the Facebook group Lost Coast Trail CA.

Lastly, you may very well choose to hike out-and-back. More power to you!

When to Hike the Lost Coast Trail

While this hike is accessible year round, I would suggest reserving a permit for the spring season to enjoy the blue skies, wildflowers, and baby elephant seals. The most popular time to hike the Lost Coast Trail is during the summer, resulting in more human interaction. There are never crowds along the LCT, but you are likely to run into larger groups of people when you arrive at your camping area for the night. Additionally, the King Range usually goes into its first level of fire restrictions in July, but as early as June. In 2021, campfires were allowed on the LCT until mid-July, and all open flames and camp stoves were banned on August 11. The fall season (through November) may also be impacted by the summer’s burn ban. In the winter, storms offshore cause hazardous ocean conditions that increase risks associated with hiking along the coast. It is also worth noting that this area of Humboldt County typically receives 50-70 inches of rainfall annually, most of which comes down in the late fall-early spring. 

Your itinerary will be mostly dependent on your ability to hike through each impassable zone during a low-tide window. The following itinerary is a common way to break up the hike, but every single person’s hike is different based on the conditions. Impassable zones and tides will be discussed in detail in the section “Trail Terrain.” Additionally, this hike can certainly be completed in a single day if the tidal conditions are in your favor and you can get through both impassable zones at a low tide. Many people travel slowly along the LCT in order to enjoy the coastal scenery, taking as long as a week to complete their hike. 

Day 1: Mattole Beach Trailhead to Cooskie Creek (6.8 miles)

• This section of the trail is entirely along sandy beach or slippery boulders, so anticipate a slower pace. (1.5 mph)
• You will pass the impassable point at Punta Gorda and hike halfway through the northern impassable zone. Fear not, Cooskie Creek offers a safe creek valley for camping where you will be safe from the tide. 
• You can also hike up Cooskie Creek to find hidden campsites and a small swimming hole early in the summer season. 
• River otter activity here is common and you may see them hunting and swimming in the creek in the early morning. 

Day 2: Cooskie Creek to Miller Flat/Big Flat (9.8 miles)

• For the first 2 miles, you will be finishing the northern impassable zone and hiking in sand. Be sure to start your hike when the tide is receding. There is a “pinch point” at Randall Creek that may require you to run around a rocky outcropping to avoid being hit by a wave. Be sure that when you reach Randall Creek the tide is under 3 feet, or you will not make it past the pinch point. 
• The remaining 7.8 miles are on a bluff above the beach. Here, you will not need to worry about the tides, because you are at least 20 feet above sea level. Bonus: You will be able to pick up your pace along the compacted, flat trail. 
• When you reach Big Flat Creek, you will have many camping options. The north side of the creek is considered Big Flat, and the south side is considered Miller Flat. 
• By camping here, you will be setting yourself up well to hike through the southern impassable zone the following morning during low tide. 
• Note: There is a private residence at Big Flat, and they often host yoga retreats. If camping alongside a group of yogis isn’t your desired wilderness experience, camp on the south side of the creek at Miller Flat. 

Day 3: Miller Flat to Black Sands Beach Trailhead (8.5 miles)

• Your first mile will continue along the bluff before dropping you back onto the beach just north of Shipman Creek. This is the beginning of the southern impassable zone, and it continues south on to Gitchell Creek.
• For this section, be sure to hike during a receding tide and reach Gitchell Creek while the tide is below 3 feet. 
• Once you’ve reached Gitchell, you can slowly meander and enjoy the remainder of your hike to Black Sands, due to the wide stretch of beach in the southern section. 
• Keep an eye out for bear tracks along the beach if you’re traveling in the early morning!

Lost Coast Trail Terrain 

The terrain of the LCT is the most precarious and challenging aspect of this route. The northern and southern sections follow the coastline, while the middle section (Randall Creek to Miller Flat) follows a bluff trail above sea level. Along the coastal sections, you will spend most of your time hiking through sand or jumping through boulder fields. In the middle bluff section, you will walk through overgrown lupine and poison oak before it opens up to a flat, grassy prairie. There are shallow creek crossings every mile or so, but you will probably be able to stay dry by rock hopping. Due to the sandy and rocky terrain, it is recommended that hikers plan for a slower pace of 1.5 mph.

When traveling along the beach, one needs to plan to pass through the 3 impassable zones at specific times in order to mitigate the danger of rising tides trapping you along the cliffside. 

1. The northernmost “impassable point” is located 2.4 miles south of the Mattole trailhead. If the tide is higher than 5.5 feet, the rocks along Punta Gorda will all be underwater, making that spot impassable. A tide lower than 5.5 feet will allow you to safely hike past this point. 
2. The northern “impassable zone” is located between Sea Lion Gulch and Randall Creek. Start hiking this section on a receding tide, and be sure to reach Randall Creek while the tide is lower than 3 feet. If the tide is higher than 3 feet, you will not be able to hike around the rocky outcropping located at Randall Creek. 
3. The southern “impassable zone” is located between Big Flat and Gitchell Creek. This section should also be hiked on a receding tide. Most of this section is a fairly narrow strip of beach, so aim to hike this entire section while the tide is below 3 feet. 

Lost Coast Trail Resupply Strategy 

The LCT is short enough to not require a resupply strategy. Be sure to carry a hard-sided bear canister large enough to fit all food, trash, and scented items! 

Logistics: Land Management, Water, Special Gear

What type of land: The entirety of the Lost Coast Trail is located within the King Range Wilderness, meaning that you are held to all wilderness rules and regulations. This area is managed by the Bureau of Land Management. Dogs are allowed to use this trail, but must remain leashed near the Punta Gorda lighthouse when passing the elephant seal colony. 

Water: One of the most convenient aspects of the LCT is the availability of water year round. Hikers will encounter a running creek about every mile or two along the coast, minimizing the need to carry an excess of water. As temperatures rise and flows decrease, some of the creeks may grow algae in the shallow parts closest to the ocean. If this is the case, simply hike up the creek a bit to reach fresh, flowing water. All water along the Lost Coast must be filtered before consumption. 

Special Gear: The one piece of gear that has saved me on the LCT a countless amount of times is a good pair of trekking poles. Whether you’re pulling yourself through the sand or balancing yourself while hopping between boulders, a pair of poles is essential. Many hikers also choose to wear gaiters for the sand, creek crossings, ticks, and poison oak. 

Know Before You Go

Due to the intense planning process, this trail is best suited for experienced backpackers who are very comfortable with organizing logistics and researching.

You need to pass through the impassable zones at receding tides lower than 3 feet. If you are having a difficult time understanding the tide charts for your dates, you should call the BLM King Range Project Office to have a ranger answer your questions at 707-986-5400. This is not something you should just “wing”; understanding the coastline and tides is necessary in order to safely navigate this route. 

Ticks, poison oak, and rattlesnakes are three of the most common concerns among LCT hikers. If you are sleeping without a closed tent, consider treating your gear with permethrin to ward off the ticks. Rattlesnakes can be found as close as a few feet away from the ocean and will be lethargic in the early mornings, so they may not rattle. Keep your eyes open, and always kick pieces of driftwood before taking a seat. 

While you may see a number of large driftwood structures along the beach, please help maintain the wilderness and do not build any. People tend to hide their trash inside them, which attracts rodents and rattlesnakes.

Fire restrictions are usually put into place in midsummer. If you are hiking between July-November, be prepared to eat meals without the use of a camping stove. 

The black bear population in the King Range is very healthy, which is why you are required to carry a hard-sided bear canister on all overnight trips in the wilderness area. Bear canisters can be rented for $5 from the BLM King Range Project Office in Whitethorn, from your shuttle driver, or from the Petrolia Store. 

While dogs are allowed on the trail, they often struggle with the terrain. If you are planning on bringing your pup, you should also bring them a pair of booties for the hot sand. 

Because the LCT is on such a narrow strip of land, you are supposed to dig your catholes in the intertidal zone, not up the creek valleys. This offers some of the most beautiful cathole views imaginable! 

Lost Coast Trail Resources

Shuttles:

• Lost Coast Adventure Tours
• Mendo Insider Tours
• Bill’s Lost Coast Shuttle Service: 707-442-1983

The App Avenza has downloadable maps of the Lost Coast Trail, which is the exact same version distributed by the BLM. This allows you to see yourself in real time on the map and easily navigate along the outlined impassable zones. 

Official Lost Coast Trail map

Most reliable website for checking the tides

The Lost Coast Trail CA Facebook group is a good resource for those with questions from other hikers. Group members often coordinate permit cancellations with each other to allow others to claim them promptly. 

Kacie Hallahan lives and recreates behind the Redwood Curtain of Northern California. She worked as a BLM wilderness ranger on the Lost Coast, hiking the entirety of the trail every week for 10 weeks. Follow her on Instagram for more of her adventures @idkacie.

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The Four Pass Loop is a difficult, 28-mile loop trail located in the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness area in Central Colorado. The trail traverses four mountain passes over 12,000 feet and can be hiked in 3-5 days.

Region: Mountain West (Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness, Central Colorado) 
Distance: 28 miles (3-4 days) 

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• 7,752 feet of cumulative elevation gain 
• Several sections of 1,000+ feet of elevation gain / mile
• Much of the hike is above treeline, leading to greater exposure
• High average elevation

Logistical Difficulty: Difficult

• High elevation, narrow weather window
• Must plan to be over mountain passes by early afternoon to avoid thunderstorms
• The Forest Service began requiring permits for backcountry camping on Feb. 15, 2023.
• Accessing trailheads requires advance reservations for shuttle or parking or, alternatively, a 4WD vehicle

Season: Summer, Early Fall

Elevation (Average): ~11,000 feet
Starting Elevation: 9,580 feet
Max Elevation: 12,500 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 7,752 feet

Hiking the Four Pass Loop

This hike is basically nonstop views with a healthy amount of physical challenge. If you’re the type of backpacker who likes to be rewarded for your climbs with epic 360 mountain vistas, this is definitely the trip for you. 

You can camp at some of the most beautiful backcountry sites I’ve ever seen. Catching both sunset and sunrise at Snowmass Lake is the kind of thing bucket lists are made of—not to mention falling asleep to the sound of King Falls’ rushing water in Fravert Basin. 

That being said, these beautiful backcountry places aren’t reached without some backcountry effort. The climbs, especially up Trail Rider Pass (going clockwise), are enough to make your legs shake at sea level; add 12,000 feet of elevation into the equation and even fairly fit people will feel it’s a challenge. If you’re coming from sea level, a few days of acclimatization will make your trip much more enjoyable.

Most say it’s easier to do this loop clockwise, and that’s what I did. The trail itself is straightforward and well-marked so as long as you can follow a map, navigation shouldn’t be a challenge.

For backpackers who don’t mind needing a bit of logistical foresight—carrying a bear can or intense climbs—Four Pass Loop is a true treat with some of the best backcountry Colorado has to offer.  

How to get to the Four Pass Loop

Nearest City: Aspen, Colorado (10.8 miles) or Crested Butte, Colorado (14 miles) 
Maroon Lake Trailhead (when starting from Aspen)
West Maroon Trailhead (when starting from Crested Butte) 

While Four Pass Loop is obviously a loop and you will start and end at the same place, there are two trailheads to choose from and each presents its own logistical challenges. Pick your poison.

The more popular option, and the one I found easiest, is entering from Maroon Lake Trailhead, located about 10 miles outside of Aspen, Colorado. Due to the popularity of the trailhead (you’ve probably seen the lake on a few Colorado postcards), reservations are required to reach it whether you are driving yourself or taking a shuttle. Reservations and a lot of detailed information can be found at the Aspen Chamber website here. 

There are three options to consider when entering from Maroon Lake Trailhead:

1) Reserve a $10 round-trip shuttle in advance from Aspen Highlands Ski Area to the trailhead. The shuttle leaves every 15 minutes from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.. If you’re late it will leave without you and they will not let you on the next one. So be on time, or better yet, be early. I was able to get reservations about two weeks in advance for Fourth of July weekend, but they definitely fill up so it benefits you to plan ahead. You can park your car in the garage at Aspen Highlands, but it is $30 and can fill up (note: the garage says $30 maximum, and when I parked there that is all I was charged for 3 days; however, this could vary). Another option is to park at Ruby Park in downtown Aspen and take the free RFTA shuttle to Aspen Highlands (where you will catch the shuttle).

2) Have an awesome friend drop you off at the trailhead between 6 a.m. and 8 a.m. (the road is closed to private vehicles outside this window), and make sure you still get a $10 one-way ticket for the shuttle back to Aspen Highlands (and presumably if you don’t live there, a way to get back home after).

3) Reserve a $10/vehicle 2-night overnight parking permit that is good from 6 a.m. on your start date to 6 p.m. two days later (for 60 hours total). This allows you to park at the trailhead; however, you must arrive before 8 a.m. or after 5 p.m. because the road is closed to private vehicles during the day. 

Phew, I told you this trail had logistical challenges. If dealing with shuttles and parking reservations isn’t your bag and you have a high clearance, preferably 4WD vehicle, you can begin the trail from West Maroon Trailhead on the Crested Butte side. You’ll follow Gothic Road (CO 317) out of Crested Butte for 13 miles. It’s a dirt road and should be passable in most vehicles until you reach Gothic (about 7.9 miles in). After that, you will likely need a high clearance/4WD vehicle. Once you get to the trailhead, it’s about 3.1 miles of hiking to the junction where you will meet up with the Four Pass Loop (which you can take in either direction). 

When to Hike the Four Pass Loop

The best season to hike Four Pass Loop is summer, but you can successfully hike the trail in early fall with good weather. Because it is a high-altitude hike, it is covered in snow well into June and it’s very possible to encounter snow in July depending on the snowpack from the previous winter. For the best wild flowers, aim for August. If you can get good weather in early fall during the changing of the aspen leaves, it’s beautiful.

This hike is moderately trafficked, so hiking during the week will mean fewer crowds.

Another important factor to consider is thunderstorms. It is very common to encounter hail and lightning above treeline during the summer in the early afternoon–my personal rule for safety is to be back below treeline before noon (although it can storm earlier). Keeping an eye on the weather may also help you decide which direction to take the loop. Because the trail does not go back below treeline between West Maroon and Frigid Air Pass, you may want to knock out those two passes first if the weather looks nice, or last if not. My first day on the loop had a clear forecast so even though we started around 10 a.m., we decided to go for the first two passes that afternoon. Here’s my itinerary to show what a trip could look like (It’s important to note that I hiked the Four Pass Loop before overnight backcountry permits were required.):

Day 1: West Maroon Pass (12,490 feet) + Frigid Air Pass (12,405 feet)
I hiked about 14 miles from West Maroon Trailhead to our first campsite. 

Day 2: Trail Rider Pass (12,415 feet)
I hiked about 8 miles from camp over Trail Rider Pass, the steepest ascent of the trip. I highly recommend taking a short day and camping at Snowmass Lake.

Day 3: Buckskin Pass (12,462 feet)
On the final day I started early, made it up and over the pass before afternoon rain, and made it back to the trailhead with plenty of time to catch a shuttle back to the car.

Four Pass Loop Terrain

Four Pass Loop is a well-maintained, easy to follow trail. It’s mostly dirt with some rocky sections. It can become looser and rockier toward the top of the passes, but there is no route-finding involved (as long as the trail isn’t covered in snow). 

There are several stream crossings throughout the loop, so you should check with the Forest Service to see what the current trail conditions are like before you go. While I definitely got wet, the stream crossings were very moderate in July 2020 (a dry year for Colorado). 

During my trip, I did run into a couple of sections with dense avalanche debris. This can happen early in the season after an avalanche-prone winter—so just be ready to go a little slower and get creative navigating around trees. 

Four Pass Loop Logistics 

Camping and Permits: Four Pass Loop is located in the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness within White River National Forest. Starting Feb. 15, 2023, all overnight visitors must obtain a permit in advance. Permits and camping information can be obtained here. 

Water: There are ample water sources throughout the hike (several of which you will have to cross). The earlier in the season you go, the more water you will see due to snowmelt. The climbs are fairly exposed, so be sure to carry enough water to last you the climb.

Special Gear: Bear canisters or any IGBC approved bear-resistant container are required to hike Four Pass Loop. You will be ticketed and asked to leave if you don’t have one and in my experience I did encounter several rangers on the hike. 

In the early season or after a high snow year, it may help to have microspikes for snow patches on the high mountain passes.

Know Before You Go

The most important things to remember before hiking Four Pass Loop are checking what kind of snow levels you are dealing with and having your trailhead logistics sorted. Getting shuttles and parking requires some advanced planning.

Also, don’t forget to bring a bear can—a fed bear is a dead bear. The Forest Service also iterates it’s very important to have a plan for your human waste (aka your poop). They highly recommend considering WAG bags. WAG stands for Waste Alleviation and Gelling. A WAG bag is a disposable, sealable bag with some odor-destroying chemicals plus a chemical that turns your waste into a stable gel. All of which is to say, it’s better than pooping into a Ziploc bag. If you don’t use a WAG bag, please be sure to bury it 6 to 8 inches deep at least 200 feet from water, camp, and trails. 

Resources

Booking Shuttle or Parking Reservations

Getting a Permit and Camping Information

Camping Map

Overview from the Forest Service

IBGC-Approved Bear Canisters

How to Use a WAG Bag

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The Sierra High Route is a 195-mile route through the Sierra Nevada mountain range, known for challenging off-trail travel, sweeping granite peaks, and stunning alpine lakes. It can be hiked in 14-21 days.

Region: Pacific West (Sierra Nevada, California)
Distance: 195 miles (14-21 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Travels above 9,000 feet for the majority of the route
• Many Class 3 off-trail passes (~30 passes along route)
• Over 40,000 feet of cumulative elevation gain

Logistical Difficulty: Difficult

• Resupply options are minimal and can be far from the route
• Tricky off-trail navigation / travel in some sections
• Route termini are remote, on opposite sides of the Sierra Nevada

Season: Summer

Elevation (Average): ~10,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: ~ 44,000 feet

Hiking the Sierra High Route

The Sierra High Route, also known as Roper’s Route, is a worthy and challenging endeavor in the Sierra. The route was designed and put together by Steve Roper, a famous climber and historian in the area. He wrote a book, The Sierra High Route: Traversing Timberline Country, that guides the hiker through the landscape while providing information and history along the way. The book is written as if the hiker is walking northbound, so that may be the easiest direction of travel, though you can walk the route in either direction. 

The Sierra High Route traverses beautiful and remote terrain, passing stunning alpine lakes (with ample swimming opportunities) along the way. During the 195 miles, this route takes the hiker over approximately 30 mountain passes. Due to it being lesser known and more physically and logistically demanding, the route sees less traffic than the well-known John Muir Trail (JMT) or Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) in the same region.

The terrain along the Sierra High Route offers variety. Occasionally you will walk on the well-maintained John Muir Trail, but at other times you will spend hours scrambling on third-class talus fields. Much of the second- to third-class terrain requires focus, balance, and trust in your skills and judgment. The remoteness of the route poses high risk if you or someone in your party gets injured. For safety, hikers attempting this route should be competent in navigation and route-finding, and able to appropriately assess their level of fitness when planning their trip. 

The route starts out heading north in Kings Canyon National Park and eventually turns east, dropping into the JMT/PCT corridor. After a few miles it leaves lower elevations to stay high near the Palisades range. After dropping back down to the JMT/PCT to go over Muir Pass, it leaves this corridor again just before the big drop into Evolution Valley. Here it stays high along the crest, and then takes you below Mt. Humphreys and Bear Creek Spire, passing stunning alpine lakes along the way. The route continues along the crest and eventually drops into Reds Meadow, the only resupply spot en route. Past Reds Meadow it travels below the jagged Minarets and Mt. Ritter, into Yosemite National Park, through Tuolumne Meadows and past Mt. Conness down into Twin Lakes Village, just outside of Bridgeport, California.

How to Get to the Sierra High Route

Nearest Major Cities

West Side of Sierra: Fresno, California (~175 miles to southern terminus)
East Side of Sierra: Reno, Nevada (~115 miles to northern terminus), Bridgeport, California (~15 miles to northern terminus)

Trailhead / Southern Terminus: Copper Creek Trailhead, Road’s End
Trailhead / Northern Terminus: Horse Creek Falls Trailhead, Twin Lakes

Getting to and from the termini of the route can be difficult. When I hiked the route I preferred to forgo a personal vehicle and stick with public transit, shuttles, and hitchhiking. These logistics are particularly hard because the route ends on opposite sides of the Sierra Nevada. Theoretically, a hiker could park one vehicle at each end, but this would involve an approximately five-hour car shuttle on either side of the trip. The best option for getting to either terminus would be to fly into the large(ish) nearby airports, either Fresno (southern terminus) or Reno (northern terminus). 

To get to the southern terminus (public transit can take you most of the way), you can take Big Trees Transit from the Fresno Yosemite International Airport to Grant Grove Village in Kings Canyon National Park. From there, you may be able to hitch a ride to Road’s End. Reverse this in order to travel from Road’s End to Fresno.

To get to and from the northern terminus, you can easily hitch or hire a ride to or from Bridgeport (only about 15 miles from the northern terminus), and then take Eastern Sierra Transit. Eastern Sierra Transit runs along most of the eastern side of the Sierra, including all the way to the Reno-Tahoe International Airport. If you plan on flying in or out of Reno, this is a great option. Another useful public transportation service in the area is the Yosemite Area Rapid Transit System. If you are able to find a way up into Tuolumne Meadows or into Yosemite Valley, they may be helpful in getting back onto the west side of the range if you left a vehicle there. But this involves more logistics than seems necessary. As always, you can schedule a shuttle service or hitchhike at either end.

When to Hike the Sierra High Route

The best time to hike the Sierra High Route is late July to mid-September. I hiked it in late August. During August the weather and temperatures were very stable. By this time the snowpack from the past winter has most likely melted completely, making movement in the mountains a little bit more consistent and less treacherous. It is possible to hike into September, but you may encounter cold temperatures and possible early-season snowstorms. The best hiking window will be early August to early September.

Sierra High Route Terrain 

The terrain on the Sierra High Route is purely mountainous. Most of the route is off trail, and most of the trail sections are on lesser-traveled trails. Some of the trails may be well-maintained while others may be hard to follow. The route entails many class 2 and class 3 scrambles to go up and over multiple high passes. Some of the route takes you on granite slabs and some of it goes through high alpine meadows. Because the route is so high in elevation and the tree cover is minimal, finding shelter and protection from the elements can be a challenge.

Sierra High Route Resupply

Resupply can be tricky on the Sierra High Route. There is only one option for a resupply that is directly en route: Red’s Meadow Resort. There are a few other options, but all require leaving the established route. When I hiked the Sierra High Route I opted to only send a box to Red’s Meadow and to stop by the Tuolumne Meadows General Store to buy a few snacks before the end. This made for a long food carry and a somewhat heavy pack for the first half of the trip.

When planning your Sierra High Route resupply, it may be helpful to consider if you want to have external support or not. You could have someone hike to meet you with supplies, or you could hire an outfitter to hike or horsepack in a resupply for you. If you decide to resupply independently, there are some options along the route, as well as a few trailheads where you could leave the route and return.

Here is a breakdown of resupply options along the Sierra High Route, listed in NOBO order:

Mile 32 | Bishop Pass Trailhead via Bishop Pass: You can leave the route in Dusy Basin and hike up and over Bishop Pass. This will take you down to the Bishop Pass Trailhead. Here you can hitch/hire/find a ride into Bishop, California, a town with all the necessary services. This will add about 7 miles (14 miles round trip) to your hike, not to mention that you will have to drop 2,000 feet just to gain it back again. 

Mile 95 | Red’s Meadow Resort: This is the only en-route option for resupply. They accept hiker packages for a $40 charge. Also, they offer showers, a payphone, restaurant, and accommodations. 

Mile 95 | Mammoth Lakes, California, via bus from Red’s Meadow:  You are able to catch the bus from Red’s Meadow down into Mammoth Lakes via Eastern Sierra Transit. Mammoth Lakes has ample options for all hiker resupply needs. 

Mile 130 | Tuolumne Meadows General Store: The Tuolumne Meadows General Store is only a few miles off the Sierra High Route. You could plan on an (expensive) resupply there or you could send a mail drop to the post office as your final resupply option. I stopped by this store because I was running low on food and needed a place to buy a few extra snacks. Also, a breakfast sandwich from the grill as a pick-me-up was definitely a plus.

Sierra High Route Logistics: Permits, Camping, Special Gear

Permits: You will need a permit to hike the Sierra High Route since it travels across Sequoia-Kings Canyon and Yosemite National Parks, as well as the John Muir and Ansel Adams wilderness areas. Luckily, the Sierra High Route permits are not as hard to obtain as other more popular trails in the area, such as the Rae Lakes Loop or the John Muir Trail. 

I recommend reserving a permit once you have a basic itinerary mapped out. I reserved a permit in advance and it gave me peace of mind during logistics and travel to get to the southern terminus.

If you are walking northbound, you can pick up your permit at the Road’s End Ranger Station right next to Copper Creek Trailhead. Picking up a permit here will get you all the way through to the end at Twin Lakes. Walk-up permits are also available there if you would like to take your chances. If you are walking southbound you can pick up your walk-up or reserved permit at the Bridgeport Ranger Station, for entry at Horse Creek Falls Trailhead. Then you will need to pick up another permit at Tuolumne Meadows Ranger Station for the rest of the route. Weirdly, the permit for the Toiyabe National Forest (entering at Horse Creek Falls) is not valid for Yosemite and beyond, requiring two separate permits to hike the Sierra High Route southbound. 

Camping: Camping is plentiful along the Sierra High Route. In general, the Sierra offer many options for camping each day. You can camp along a river, at an alpine lake, or on flat granite slabs. At some point along the way you will encounter more established campsites and in other sections it will be up to you to find camping. Remember to follow LNT principles wherever you stay. 

Special Gear: A bear canister will be necessary on the Sierra High Route to stay within regulations. These can be tricky to pack into your backpack and everyone has their preferred method. The real trick is: can you fit all of your food? Take some time to experiment with what you think works best for you to make for more comfortable pack fitting.

Know Before You Go

Previous Experience: The Sierra High Route is best suited for folks with previous backpacking experience. If you aren’t sure how to use a map and compass, lack the required fitness, or are new to first aid in the mountains, this may not be the trip for you (yet). If you use a GPS to navigate, always make sure you have another option since batteries can run out and electronics can sometimes fail. Just a reminder to know your own limits. Luckily, there are many options for bailing if you find yourself in a tough spot. 

Environmental: High alpine environments can be harsh. On the SHR you will be above treeline and on exposed terrain most of the time. Pay special attention to weather patterns and how intense the sun can be. Drink water, put on sunscreen, and take care of yourself. Preventing problems is usually easier than fixing them.

Section Hiking Options: In his book, Steve Roper outlines ways that a hiker could travel each section of the SHR individually. Like any trail or route, you don’t have to hike it all in at once. There is so much to see in the expanse of the Sierra. Doing multiple trips may help you continue exploring more parts of this beautiful landscape.

Sierra High Route Resources

The Sierra High Route: Traversing Timberline Country by Steve Roper

Sequoia-Kings Canyon Permit Reservations

Bear Canister Regulations

Jeff Podmayer (he/him) grew up in the Pacific Northwest and is always looking for ways to spend time outside. He enjoys walking, talking, drinking hot cocoa, and eating pizza. Sometimes all at once. He has some hiking experience, but mostly enjoys the feeling of breaking a sweat. 

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The 1,200-mile Pacific Northwest Trail is an epic, advanced thru-hike that takes backpackers from the Continental Divide to the Pacific Ocean. It can be completed in 10-14 weeks.

Region: Pacific West, Mountain West (Washington, Idaho, Montana)
Length: 1,200 miles (10-14 weeks)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult 

• Steep, rugged trails
• Quickly changing and intense weather
• Rooty, rocky trails with blowdowns

Logistical Difficulty: Difficult

• A long, remote trail with little cell service
• Three national parks to plan permits in
• Difficult navigation and changing land management groups
• Resupply needs to be planned in advance. Resupply spreadsheet here.

Season: Summer / Early Fall

Pacific Northwest Trail Elevation Profile

How to Get to the Pacific Northwest Trail

This is one of the most challenging trails to access on either end. I had a ride to the western terminus, but here is a collection of info on reaching either end if you don’t have a ride.

Pacific Northwest Trail Eastern Terminus

The eastern terminus of the PNT is located at Chief Mountain Customs off the Chief Mountain Highway right at the northeast corner of Glacier National Park in Montana.

Closest Major City: East Glacier, Montana (67 miles)

From the East Glacier Amtrak station, arranging a private taxi or setting up a ride is the best option for getting to the terminus. Smaller airports and stations exist in the smaller cities within a few hours of East Glacier, and we would recommend planning the trip that gets you to East Glacier and/or the St. Mary Visitor Center for Glacier National Park backcountry permits.

Pacific Northwest Trail Western Terminus

The western terminus is in Olympic National Park at Cape Alava. Like the eastern terminus, this is quite remote, but there are a few more options to get close to this point. Cape Alava is a 3-mile hike from the park’s Ozette ranger station.

Personal Transportation to the Pacific Northwest Trail Western Terminus

You can reach Ozette Lake (and then hike the 3 miles to Cape Alava) most easily by getting a ride to the area. There are also private shuttles back to Ozette if you are section hiking Section 10, and it is possible to leave a vehicle here.

Public Transit to the Pacific Northwest Trail Western Terminus

Public transportation is available between Seattle and major trail towns on the Olympic Peninsula, but it is not possible to reach Ozette by public transit.

Hikers taking public transportation from Seattle will also need to book a shuttle or find another ride from the nearest bus stop, between 30-50 miles from Ozette / Cape Alava. Hitchhiking is illegal in national parks and Uber or Lyft might not be available as you get more remote.

From Seattle-Tacoma International Airport, hikers can get to Forks, Clallam Bay, or Neah Bay via a series of buses and a ferry. This can be pieced together with the Jefferson Transit and Clallam Transit schedules.

Private Shuttle to the Pacific Northwest Trail Western Terminus

A private shuttle operated by the Olympic Hiking Company can now be used to travel between Ozette and the nearest transit stations on the Olympic Peninsula. Here is a schedule of the shuttle’s route between Oil City and Neah Bay. The shuttle operator is usually able to accommodate quick drop-off requests for PNT hikers at bus stops along the route at Neah Bay, Clallam Bay, or in the trail town of Forks so that they can use public transit to reach Seattle and other destinations.

Olympic Hiking Company can also arrange custom shuttle trips throughout Olympic National Park. Please note that all shuttle trips must be booked in advance. 

Hiking the Pacific Northwest Trail

The Pacific Northwest Trail gained National Scenic Trail designation in 2009. It spans from the Pacific Ocean to the Continental Divide. One of the draws of the trail is that it cuts diagonally across numerous mountain ranges. On the 1,200-mile route, hikers access ranges of the Continental Divide, Whitefish Divide, Purcells, Selkirks, Kettles, Cascades, and Olympic mountains.

The route crosses through rainforests, offers beach camping, and follows the Boundary Trail for much of its length. The Pacific Northwest Trail is one of the most remote in the Lower 48, and is by no means a beginner trail. Simply for the fact it is so remote and travels through some of the least-used land in the country, it offers an experience that few people get, and no other trail offers.

The Pacific Northwest Trail is separated into 10 segments, numbered and spanning from east to west. We have outlined them, what they entail, and the features of each section.

Section 1 – The Rocky Mountains
149 miles
East Terminus to Eureka, Montana

The eastern terminus of the trail sits at Chief Mountain Border Crossing, from which the trail winds through Glacier National Park for 55 miles. After exiting Glacier is the best spot for the first resupply: Polebridge. There is a cute little mercantile and restaurant that sits on the outskirts of GNP. From Glacier the PNT climbs the Whitefish Divide, offering an even more remote experience than the west side of the national park. The sections ends as the trail walks right through the heart of Eureka, Montana.

This section is known for the national park, grizzly bears, elk, moose, marmots, and very remote hiking from Polebridge to Eureka. A backcountry permit is needed to hike through Glacier and can be obtained from the Polebridge ranger station if entering the park from the west.

Section 2 – Purcell Mountains
97 miles
Eureka to Hwy 95 (Bonners Ferry, Idaho)

The Purcell Mountain section is one of the most remote on the entire trail. It passes four remote fire lookout towers and through areas with the continent’s most iconic mammals (wolves, grizzly, black bear, elk, and moose). Section 2 of the PNT offers two small windows into civilization. Yaak, Montana, in the Yaak Valley provides a destination for hikers with two bars and a minor resupply. Outside of this small 280-population community, there is a small, hiker-friendly resort that can hold packages and offer a good meal.

Section 3 – Selkirk Mountains
143 miles
Hwy 95 (Bonners Ferry) to Northport, Washington

Heading east from Highway 95, the trail crosses the Kootenai River Valley— a peaceful river valley surrounded by rolling hills. But the ease and peacefulness is short-lived, with a harsh climb into the Selkirk Mountains. Once at the height of the mountains, hikers reach some of the most challenging sections of the entire PNT. Just before dropping to Upper Priest Lake the trail largely disappears and what follows is one of the longest bushwhacks on any major trail. It is fairly easy to find the road at the bottom if the correct bearing is taken, but it is an exciting section and you’ll need a map and compass.

After Upper Priest Lake there are a few alternates we recommend, if only for the swimming prospects in Sullivan Lake. From the campground on the north side of the lake, a series of roads leads to Metaline Falls, Washington, the first true chance to resupply since Bonners Ferry. The trail follows a series of roads out of the small town and then branches off on a trail to climb up Abercrombie Mountain, the highest point in the section. From the summit it is a decent trail and roadwalk to get to Northport.

Section 4 – Kettle River Range
121 miles
Northport to Sweat Creek

From Northport, the Pacific Northwest Trail follows a series of roads back into the Kettle River Range. This is much hotter and drier than a location so close to Canada would lead you to believe. Water is precious as the trail joins a portion of the Kettle Crest National Recreation Trail. The major city after Northport is Republic, Washington. The town has everything a hiker could need, from hotels to a full supermarket. This town can be hitched to from three different locations, as the Pacific Northwest Trail goes around three sides of the county seat of Ferry County.

Section 5 – Okanogan Highlands
104 miles
Sweat Creek to Cold Springs

The Okanogan Highlands are another hot section where water is scarce. But don’t be deceived; this section also receives substantial snowfall in the winter. The route seesaws through the mountains with a smattering of fields and forests. There are reprieves throughout the section, with a store and campground on the banks of Bonaparte Lake. The resort will hold packages and has an assortment of snacks and drinks. An open plain and another forest before a beautiful trail leads down to Highway 97. Here begins the longest roadwalk of the trail. Hikers reach Oroville, a full-service town, but on the west side of town there is a substantial amount of asphalt to walk. At the end of this walk (and section) there is an alternate on most maps and apps we recommend avoiding. I attempted to complete the scramble connecting the road to the trail, but it wasn’t worth the consequences.

Section 6 – Pasayten Wilderness
121 miles
Cold Springs to Ross Lake

The trail enters the vast Pasayten Wilderness with abandoned cabins, mines, and relics of past inhabitants. The PNT follows the route of the Boundary Trail, winding through the remnants of old forest fires, sprawling forests, unkempt trail, across churning rivers… all within a stone’s throw of Canada. This is one of the most difficult sections to resupply, despite the 13 miles that are shared with the Pacific Crest Trail. Options exist to hitch to Mazama or Winthrop, two PCT resupply points, but when I hiked this trail I stuck it out all the way between Ross Lake and Oroville without a resupply. This section offers the best look at what the country used to be, rolling hills leading to a huge expanse of untouched land.

Section 7 – North Cascades
196 miles
Ross Lake to Oyster Dome

After picking up your package at Ross Lake, the immersion into the high peaks of the Washington Cascades begins. It is like nothing found in the rest of the country. Sweeping views of dormant and active volcanoes dominate the skyline. Hiking around Mount Baker, through lower forest lands, and along some of the first trail constructed on the Pacific Northwest Trail all form this section.

The only resupply locations close to the trail in the section are at the beginning (Ross Lake) and at the end (Alger, .7 off the trail). Other than these spots, hitching is necessary to properly resupply across the longest section of the entire trail. When I did the trail I mailed a package to Glacier, Washington, and was able to work with the short post office hours.

Section 8 – Puget Sound
68 miles
Oyster Dome to Coupeville

After two difficult sections to resupply, hikers of the PNT enter a populated area. The climate is very manageable and amenities are everywhere, even a ferry! This is the first introduction to beach hiking and a sign that the end of the thru-hike is in sight. Lightweight carries are the name of the game through the Sound, and many photos of seals, Deception Pass, and the deer.

Section 9 – Olympic Mountains
162 miles
Coupeville to Forks

The mountains of the Olympics and the rainforest of the Olympic Peninsula make up one of the most diverse sections of trail in the entire country. The peaks of the mountains get high snow while the temperate rainforest on the shores of the Bogachiel River gets over 12 feet of rain each year. Moss and stunning green forest surround you as the trail drops from the mountains to the lower forests, with a nice beach walk awaiting. Diverse wildlife ranging from bears to goats to giant Roosevelt elk call this section home. Forks is the end of the section and has gained tourism fame from its inclusion in the Twilight movies. The small town is a short hitch, and offers anything a hiker needs before their final section.

Section 10 – Wilderness Coast
61 miles
Forks to Cape Alava (Western Terminus)

This is the final stage of the mountains to the ocean route that has taken hikers against the grain of seven different mountain ranges. Camping on the beach begins and the magical view of seeing the sunset over the Pacific Ocean. A bear can is required to camp in Olympic National Park. For the beach portion, this is more to protect food and gear from raccoons than from the bears. This final section is best navigated by following the tides to sneak around the inlets before the water comes in again. The rocks and barnacles are sharp and will cut the lifespan of your shoes in half.

Another staple of the northward beach walk to the end of the trail is the rugged ladders that assist hikers in climbing up and over the headlands, before dropping back to the beach on the other side. This section is unlike any section of any other National Scenic Trail in the US, so enjoy the final 61 miles of your journey!

Pacific Northwest Trail Resupply Data Here

When Should You Hike the Pacific Northwest Trail?

The best time to hike the Pacific Northwest Trail is in the summer when snow has melted, the rainforest has less precipitation, and the downpours on the Washington coast are less frequent. The Pacific Northwest Trail is unique in that it traverses so many different mountains, beaches, rainforest, and arid high plains that you won’t get ideal weather throughout the entire trail, but you can minimize your rough times by starting in early summer.

Should You Hike Eastbound or Westbound?

There is no perfect answer to this question—both terminuses are difficult to access, and since the trail goes laterally, you aren’t chasing the seasons like you do on a north-south trail. The majority of thru-hikers hike the PNT from east to west (westbound), but I’ve have hiked this trail twice eastbound. Many hikers like to start at the heights of the Continental Divide and finish at the ocean, but both directions offer similar adversity and beauty.

Pacific Northwest Trail Terrain 

The Pacific Northwest Trail has every kind of terrain imaginable. Hikers experience a rainforest on the Olympic Peninsula, and a very arid and exposed section through Northeastern Washington. This is an advanced-level thru-hike, in that the challenges involved are a combination of everything that most long-distance trails require. You’ll need everything from an ice axe, to an umbrella, to snow gear and crampons, to sun protection, to bear spray. When we say you encounter it all, we mean it.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water

Permits: Backcountry permits are required to camp on the PNT in the three national parks that it passes through: Glacier National Park, North Cascades National Park Complex, and Olympic National Park.

Camping: Other than the national parks requiring permits, the Pacific Northwest Trail offers dispersed camping unless otherwise noted. There are corridors through public lands, so using LNT practices is important to maintain this footpath and the positive relationships with landowners.

Water Carries: There are multiple waterless stretches up to 20 miles in length, so check your sources and be prepared with plenty of water and add electrolyte tabs to stay hydrated.

Know Before You Go

Wildlife: Ticks, mosquitoes, snakes, and grizzly bears exist on this trail, so planning out each section and what to expect is essential. From the Idaho border to the eastern terminus we recommend carrying bear spray.

Road Walks: You’ll encounter some roadwalks on this trail. Some are long and flat, but our experiences with the residents along them have been nothing but positive.

Pacific Northwest Trail Resources

The Pacific Northwest Trail Association has made overview maps and more detailed map sets available for download, found here. More detailed maps found here.

Pacific Northwest Trail Association

Glacier National Park Backcountry Office

North Cascades National Park Backcountry Office

Olympic National Park Backcountry Office

Maps for the PNT

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Region: Pacific West (Mount Rainier National Park, Washington)
Length: 93 miles (7-10 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• Each day the average hiker gains and loses 3,000 to 6,000 feet of elevation.
• Weather can be cool and rainy, even in summer months.
• Trail is well-marked and highly trafficked, requiring no bushwhacking and very little route-finding.

Logistical Difficulty: Difficult 

• Permits required, awarded on lottery system. National Park Service page here.
• Itinerary (including daily mileage and nightly campsites) must be locked in during permit process.
• A loop hike with multiple access points.

Season: Summer/Early Fall

Elevation (Average): ~4625
Total Elevation Gain: 29,700

Days to Complete

How to Get to the Wonderland Trail

Nearest Major City: Tacoma, Washington (66 miles)

The Wonderland Trail has access points within a two-hour drive of several major cities in Washington state, including Seattle, Tacoma, and Olympia. Because it’s a loop, you can start and end the trail from almost anywhere, but the most common starting point is Longmire. Longmire has plenty of parking and is heavily trafficked, so your car will be just fine there. Longmire also has the National Park Inn and several nearby restaurants (within 30 minutes).

Hiking the Wonderland Trail 

The Wonderland Trail is a 93-mile loop around the base of Mount Rainier in Washington state. An active volcano topping out at 14,411 feet, Mount Rainier rises dramatically from the surrounding Cascade Range. Don’t worry—it last erupted in 1854. Perpetually snowcapped, Rainier is a premier American mountaineering destination. But you won’t be going anywhere near the top. 

We’ve heard the Wonderland Trail described as “the best first thru-hike.” While the daily elevation gain and loss can be dramatic (and strenuous), the trail’s high point is at a relatively mild 6,750 feet—enough to feel some elevation, but not enough to cause dramatic altitude sickness in the average backpacker.

A rigorous permitting process locks you into certain established mileages and campsites, and this can be aggravating to backpackers used to a more freewheeling style. But knowing you’ve got a reserved campsite (complete with bear-proof food storage) waiting for you can be a relief on such a heavily trafficked trail. And this isn’t a hike you want to rush. The views along every step of the Wonderland Trail are second to none. 

This is a trail to be savored. The National Park Service allows up to 14 days to finish the trail, but even a relatively slow pace of ten miles a day will see you complete the trail within ten days. The Wonderland Trail is famous for its glaciers, waterfalls, wildflowers, and varied terrain, so take your time and enjoy yourself!

When to Hike the Wonderland Trail

Summer and fall are the best times to hike the Wonderland Trail. Spring and winter are too snowy to backpack. 

You can expect temperatures in summer to be in the mid-to-high 70s during the day and in the high 40s overnight. That’s decent walking weather and great sleeping weather! But in the summer you’ll be fighting lots of day hikers for trail space. More people apply for permits in the summer, so you’ll have a lower chance of receiving your desired itinerary/campsites if you manage to snag a permit at all (some people wait several years before winning the permit lottery). The trail is particularly crowded in August—so if you want to miss some of the crowds but make use of long days and warm temperatures, then aim for July.  July is the driest month around Mount Rainier, so you won’t be fighting rain very often if that’s when you choose to hike. 

If you wait until school gets back into session (i.e., after Labor Day), you have several advantages. Although demand for Wonderland Trail permits continues to rise yearly, significantly fewer people apply for permits for mid-September and onward. Although permits are processed in random order, if you aren’t having to fight the summer crowds for space, you have a better chance of locking in your desired trip even if your permit is processed later in the queue.

The daily temperatures drop significantly in the early fall, down into the 60s (or high 50s, depending on weather and elevation.) Overnight lows will dip into the low 40s or possibly high 30s, again depending on weather and elevation.

Wonderland Trail Terrain

Terrain on the Wonderland Trail is varied but subalpine. You’ll be walking through a lot of forests, meadows, and over creeks. It certainly isn’t technical, and you should be just fine wearing whatever footwear you usually hike in. In the early summer you may be walking over compacted snow with paths worn by other hikers.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water

Permits: Permits are a must if you are going to backpack the Wonderland Trail. Because the Wonderland Trail is so, well, wonderful, there’s a lot of demand for permits, with more growing every year. The NPS has recently changed the way they handle this system, so pay close attention here! This information applies to people seeking permits during the peak season of June 1st – Sept 30th.

Between March 2nd and March 14th there is an application period for the early access lottery. You’ll need a recreation.gov account to participate in this lottery. Follow this link to the page for Mount Rainier National Park Wilderness and Climbing permits.

On the right-hand side of the page, you’ll see a button (highlighted in blue) that says “Register for Open Lottery.” Clicking this button will prompt you to log in to your recreation.gov account. From there, simply put in your payment information (this part of the process costs $6) and you will be entered into the lottery.

If you strike lucky, you’ll be notified via email on March 17th with your assigned Early Access Period window. During this window (which will be somewhere between March 22nd and April 21st) you’ll be able to log in to your recreation.gov account to see real-time campsite availability and make your reservation. If, say, your Early Access Period window is on March 27th, you’ll be able to make your reservation any time between then and April 21st. But we recommend making your reservation as soon as possible after your window opens. These slots will go fast! Completing your reservation will cost an additional $20.

If you aren’t lucky enough to get into the Early Access Lottery, you’ll have to wait for the General On-Sale period, which begins on April 27th. On this date (starting at 7 AM PT), login to recreation.gov and search for “Mount Rainier National Park Wilderness and Climbing Permits.” At this point, you’ll be able to view campsite availability in real-time and book your trip. It’s smart to have several backup itineraries planned so you don’t waste time scrambling for a plan B (and possibly lose your shot to someone who’s planned better than you.)

 We recommend a few resources to help you out with this. The first is the Plan Your Visit page on the National Park Service’s website. It gives you each camp’s name and elevation. From there you can use a mapping application like Caltopo to plan the distance between each camp and make intelligent choices before you submit your permit request. 

Another option is to use a third party trip planning website. We like this—Itinerary Planner from Wonderland Guides. 

If you don’t snag a permit and don’t mind traveling to Rainier anyway, you still have a chance to hike the Wonderland Trail (albeit a small one). Roughly 30% of the permits are reserved for walk-ups—but note that the chances of this working out for you are fairly slim, particularly if you want any say in where you camp each night. It’s perhaps better to just try again next year. 

Note that even with a permit, you’ll still need to visit one of Rainier’s Wilderness Information Centers on the day of or day before the start of your trip in order to register.

Here’s a PDF that summarizes all this information!

Land Designation Restrictions: The Wonderland Trail exists entirely within the boundaries of Mount Rainier National Park. The national park designation comes with a lot of restrictions: namely no pets on trails and no drones. Sorry influencers and dog-lovers—you’ll have to go without on the Wonderland Trail. 

Firearms are allowed in the park, but no hunting (and certain buildings inside the park restrict firearms). 

Campfires are allowed in the park only at established rings—and only if you bring your wood (buy local to avoid spreading invasive pests). Collecting firewood is not allowed. 

A license is not required to fish in the park, but there are some restrictions. Check them out here. 

Although marijuana is legal in Washington state, it is not allowed within the boundaries of Mount Rainier National Park and is punishable with a hefty fine. 

Water: Water is plentiful on the Wonderland Trail. But be careful if you are using a filter. The fine glacial silt present in many of Mount Rainier’s streams can clog hollow-fiber filters (like products from Sawyer, MSR, and Katadyn) easily. Be sure the water you are treating is clear and not cloudy or silty.

Food and Fuel Caching: The average completion time for the Wonderland Trail is ten days. Even if you take less time than that, you might want to think about caching your food so you don’t have to carry 20 pounds of food all the way around the mountain! 

There’s a lot to know about caching food for the Wonderland Trail. We recommend a careful read of this page from the National Park Service. But here are a few salient points to remember: 

• You can cache food in secure locations around the trail either by mailing or hand-delivering. 
• Food cache must be packaged in a plastic container. 
• Fuel cannot be stored in the food cache—you have to store it separately (and you can’t send fuel through the mail, you must hand-deliver it). 

Food must arrive at your caching location two weeks before your hike will begin.

Know Before You Go

Difficult Permitting Process: Don’t bank on this being your trip until you’ve locked in your permit. It’s lottery style, so have a backup plan. On top of that, the locked-in style might annoy backpackers used to a more relaxed hiking style.

Daily Elevation Changes: The ups and downs on the Wonderland Trail can be strenuous. Pack a range of clothing/sleep systems to handle the varying temperatures as your altitude fluctuates.

Gear: You don’t need any special gear to hike the Wonderland Trail. It’s a well-marked, well-maintained, heavily trafficked trail in a temperate climate. But as we’ve mentioned a few times, there’s a lot of elevation gain and loss, which means one night you might be camping at 2,000 feet, and the next at 5,000. Depending on the season, that could be as much as a ten-to-15 degree temperature difference from night-to-night. So plan your clothing and sleep systems accordingly.

Carefully Read the Food Caching Procedures: If hand-delivering, give yourself extra travel time to reach your cache location the day before your hike begins. If mailing, make sure your cache arrives at least two weeks before your hike begins to allow rangers time to get it set up for you.

Might Get Rainy in Mid-September/Early October : Plan accordingly.

It’s a National Park: Expect some crowds and some land use designation-related restrictions. Make sure you read over the rules. Also, keep in mind that cell service in the park is extremely limited.

Resources

Official Wonderland Trail Website

Apply for the Early Access Lottery (Do this BEFORE MARCH 14th)

General Permit Information 

Mount Rainer Wilderness and Climbing Permits 2021 Guide

How do recreation.gov lotteries work?

Caching Food and Fuel 

Unofficial Wonderland Trail Itinerary Planner

Mount Rainier National Park Laws and Policies

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