The Titcomb Basin Loop is a 44-mile route through the Wind River Range in Wyoming. Highlights of this trip include the namesake Titcomb Basin with an off-trail opportunity to dive deeper into the backcountry.

Day 1 (Elkhart Park – Pole Creek Trailhead to Titcomb Lakes)
Day 2 (Titcomb Lakes to Trapper Lake)
Day 3 (Trapper Lake to Elkhart Park – Pine Creek Trailhead)

Titcomb Basin Loop At-a-Glance

Region: Mountain West (Bridger Wilderness, Bridger-Teton National Forest)
Distance: 44 miles (3-5 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult
—Exposure at high elevations (sun, thunderstorms)
—Sections of loose talus and Class II scrambling (Knapsack Col only)
—Off-trail navigation (Knapsack Col only)

Logistical Difficulty: Easy
—Permits are free and self-issued at the trailhead
—Loop route (no shuttle required)
—Camping is undesignated
—Water is plentiful

Season: Summer, Early Fall

Elevation (average): ~10,500
Total Elevation Gain: 7,411 feet

Hiking Titcomb Basin Loop

Titcomb Basin is a bucket-list backpacking destination in Wyoming’s Wind River Range. The area can be quite popular (by Wyoming standards), but the broader Bridger Wilderness provides ample opportunity for solitude. It’s easy to think of the loop as having three distinct sections: The first section introduces you to the Wind River’s granite monoliths en route to Titcomb Basin; the second section follows the Continental Divide northbound, carrying you deeper into the high country; and the third section is the home stretch, leading you through thick forests before returning you to your car.

I completed this route in three days over Labor Day weekend in 2022. Most hikers I encountered were in the first 14 miles of the trail before reaching Titcomb Basin.

Pole Creek Trail introduces you to the Wind River Range by leading you through dense forests and several meadows before spitting you out at Photographers Point. This section of trail gives you time to warm up your legs and make pack adjustments as needed. (Conversely, if you start the loop in a clockwise direction, you’ll begin with a 1,700-foot descent to Pine Creek … not fun.) From here, you’ll remain above 10,000 feet elevation, weaving around many large and small lakes. Both Seneca Lake (mile 9) and Island Lake (mile 12) are excellent camping options before reaching Titcomb Basin at mile 14.

The basin comprises a series of Titcomb lakes that are surrounded by towering 13,000-foot granite peaks: Henderson Peak to the west, Jackson, Fremont, Sacagawea, and Mount Helen to the east. Most hikers and backpackers will travel in and out the basin via the southern drainage (toward Island Lake). Having read trip reports that mentioned the Knapsack Col alternative (exiting the basin to the north), I knew I needed to give it a try! This is an off-trail route that is both challenging and rewarding for experienced hikers. I recommend researching current trail conditions (closer to your departure date) and assessing your physical capabilities. Route finding, rock scrambling, scree climbing: If this does not appeal to you, return to Island Lake, and continue north on the Highline / Continental Divide Trail.

Approach Knapsack Col by following the Titcomb Basin Trail north until it ends. From here, follow the creek and begin a boulder scramble. The creek is coming from a small lake at 11,700 feet. Continue west up a small saddle before gaining sight of Knapsack Col (identifiable by the snowfield at its base). Approach the col by angling up and across the scree slope. The snowfield I encountered in early September was easy to avoid by following the slope up and to the right. This 1.5-mile section through the upper basin was the highlight of the trip for me.

The remainder of the route, as they say, is all downhill. Follow the faint user trail down to Peak Lake where you regain the maintained trail system. Climb up and over Shannon Pass before reconnecting with the Highline / Continental Divide Tail. This section of the route (along the CDT) is very exposed. The trail grade is not challenging; however, I completed this during the middle of Day 2 and it was very hot. A hat, sun hoody, and sunscreen would be very helpful. Thankfully, water is abundant. 

At Summit Lake, you will leave the CDT to complete the loop along Summit Lake and Long Lake Trails. Along the way, there are many lakes to camp at. After logging 18.6 miles on Day 2, I set up camp at Trapper Lake. There is a sandy beach along the north side of the lake that was unfortunately occupied by other campers when I arrived. I found a more secluded campsite along the western shore and spent the evening rehydrating myself and my dog with plenty of electrolytes.

Wildfire smoke had blown in on my final day as I left Trapper Lake. I began the steep descent (2,300 feet) to Pine Creek, where I refilled water, before a final climb (1,800 feet) back to my car.

How to Get to Titcomb Basin Loop

Closest Major City: Pinedale, Wyoming

Elkhart Park – Pole Creek Trailhead is the most direct route to reach Titcomb Basin. The Elkhart Park recreation area is a 15-mile drive from Pinedale (25-30 minutes). Pick up any last-minute snacks you need at Obo’s Market and Deli before you head up the mountain. There is a large parking area at the trailhead with vaulted toilets but no fresh drinking water. Trails End Campground has 8 sites and operates on a first-come, first-serve basis ($12/night).

When to Hike the Titcomb Basin Loop

Midsummer to early fall is the best time to hike in the Winds. The route travels between 9,000 to 12,000 feet elevation and annual snowfall is an important consideration when timing your hike. Snow may linger at high elevations late into the summer. Labor Day was an ideal time. I encountered no snow on the trail (avoiding the small snowfield on Knapsack Col), negligible bugs, and several late wildflowers.

Even in summer months, make sure you prepare for mountain weather as rain and thunderstorms can develop quickly, and overnight temperatures may drop significantly.

Titcomb Basin Loop Terrain

Much of the route is well marked, graded, and easy to follow. You will encounter some rocky sections, and should expect several long, sustained climbs. The most challenging section of this hike is the off-trail route over Knapsack Col. I recommend tackling this section early in the morning while your legs are fresh and the sun is still low in the sky.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Leave No Trace

Permits: None! Titcomb Basin and the surrounding area are part of the Bridger-Teton National Forest (Bridger Wilderness). Permits are only required for organized groups. Check the US Forest Service website for additional details.

Camping: Bridger Wilderness regulations (and Leave No Trace principles) specify that campsites must be at least 200 feet away from a lakeshore or trail, and 100 feet away from a stream, creek, or spring. It is always best to look for existing-use sites. Mind these regulations if you plan to set up camp at Titcomb Basin; these sites can be difficult to find. Many spots that appear to be existing camp sites around Titcomb Lakes are illegal (given the 200-foot rule). It’s also worth checking above Titcomb Lakes at Mistake Lake, where a few additional sites exist.

Food Storage: Black bears and grizzly bears are present in the Bridger Wilderness and proper food storage is required. Since many areas of the route (including Titcomb Basin) are above treeline, a hard-sided bear canister is recommended. I use the BearVault BV500, which is large enough to carry a few days’ of food, plus toiletries, dog food, and trash at night.

Campfires: Campfires are permitted only below timberline. Cutting or removing standing wood is not allowed. Use established fire rings, pans, or mound fires where fires are permitted.

Know Before You Go

Weather: Weather conditions and temperatures can change rapidly in the Winds. Check forecasts leading up to your trip, but also prepare for wet, windy, or generally colder-than-expected weather. Mountain-forecast.com is a great resource to get localized weather forecasts for the Wind River Range, which allows you to search weather by mountain peak (e.g., Fremont Peak, which towers over Titcomb Basin).

Bears: There is a possibility of encountering black and grizzly bears in the Winds. Carry bear spray and know how to use it. I also like to carry a bear bell. I can’t guarantee the effectiveness, but they are cheap, lightweight, and easier to use than trying to talk to yourself to make noise.

Water: Water is plentiful along the Titcomb Basin Loop. Treat all water with portable water filters, chemical methods, or by boiling. I prefer the Katadyn BeFree Water Filtration System that doubles as a water reservoir.

Off-Trail Navigation: The route described should only be attempted by experienced hikers. That said, Knapsack Col is manageable as a beginner / intermediate off-trail route. The climb is steep, and you will be carrying your backpacking gear, so expect a slower pace. You should be comfortable reading the terrain and have access to both paper maps and electronic navigation systems.

Hiking Titcomb Basin with a Dog: Dogs are allowed in the Bridger Wilderness but should be under control at all times and kept away from other people and wildlife. I have a reactive dog and found the majority of pet owners were allowing their dogs to hike off-leash. This made me very nervous for the safety of my dog, for the safety of their dogs, and for the safety of wildlife in general.

My dog is an experienced backpacker. She was able to navigate the Class II scramble approach to Knapsack Col quite effectively but struggled on the loose talus toward the top of the climb. We encountered another backpacker with a dog (wearing boots) coming up the col from the west side. This route is attainable but challenging for both two- and four-legged friends.

Resources

Bridger Wilderness Regulations (website)

Local weather for Fremont Peak (website)

Inger Appanaitis lives in Northern Colorado and recreates throughout the Mountain West. Her home base includes Rocky Mountain National Park and the Indian Peaks Wilderness. She enjoys thinking about, planning, and executing long days on the trail. Follow along for dogs, training, and the outdoors @ingerfied

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The 55-mile Teton Loop is an alternative to the popular Teton Crest Trail, with fewer logistical hurdles, and an opportunity to experience the full diversity of Grand Teton National Park.

Region: Mountain West (Grand Teton National Park)
Distance: 55 miles (2-5 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Steep terrain, including two 3,000-foot climbs
• Climbing and descending at high elevations
• Exposure, sun, and thunderstorms at high elevations

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

Season: Summer, early fall

Total Elevation Gain: 9,643 feet

Hiking the Teton Loop

This 55-mile loop allows hikers to experience the Tetons from almost every angle in the park, including low alpine forests, steep granite canyons, and high alpine ridges. Attempting the route in two days is challenging yet rewarding. You could turn this route into a longer endeavor but this requires additional work navigating the park’s competitive backcountry permit system.

My strategy in attempting this loop was to keep things simple. I was willing and capable to hike long days with a light pack. I had initially tried and failed to secure an advance reservation permit in January when they are first released. Without this advance permit, however, I had the flexibility to wait and monitor current weather and wildfire conditions until I was ready to begin my hike.

The park allocates two-thirds of backcountry camping for first come, first served permits. To secure one of these permits, I arrived at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station at sunrise the day before my desired start date. While I was not the first visitor in line at 5 a.m., many of the people ahead of me were requesting climbing permits. Whether trying to secure an advance reservation or a first come, first served permit, be prepared with several alternative itineraries. The stars aligned and I was granted my first choice start date and camping zone. 

The Grand Teton National Park website warns hikers to expect travel of no more than 2 miles per hour, with an additional hour for every 1,000 feet of elevation gain. My plan was to start at the Jenny Lake Trailhead and camp at the Death Canyon Shelf camping zone, splitting the loop into two even-mileage days (final mileage being 28.6 and 26.7 miles). My pace was brisk but comfortable and I enjoyed longer breaks at water sources when needed. 

How to get to Teton Loop

Closest Major City: Jackson, Wyoming

This route can be accessed from several trailheads along Teton Park Road with overnight parking permitted at the following trailheads: String Lake, Jenny Lake, and Lupine Meadows.

Parking at these trailheads overnight is only allowed with a backcountry permit (more on permits below). Car make, model, and license plate information are recorded on your backcountry permit (no physical parking permit is issued). One advantage of starting and ending at Jenny Lake is the Jenny Lake Store. If you are exiting the park headed north, this is one of the few food options as you head up Highway 191 toward Yellowstone National Park.

When to Hike the Teton Loop

Midsummer to early fall is the best time to hike the Teton Loop (I highly recommend aiming for wildflower season!). Other conditions you may consider when planning for this trip:

Snow Level: Snow may linger at higher elevations.

Wildfires: Breathing conditions, let alone views, can be severely impacted by heavy wildfire smoke later in the summer. It depends on the year, but keep tabs on air quality and wildfire locations.

Bugs: I did not encounter any bugs but I would recommend carrying bug spray as insurance.

Weather: Daytime and overnight temperatures can fluctuate dramatically from the valley floor to the Teton Crest.

Afternoon Thunderstorms: I experienced light rain and some thunder all three days I was in the park. Bring a rain jacket!

It is also important to remember that Grand Teton National Park is home to many large mammals. During certain times of the year these animals are more or less active. For example, the peak of the Rocky Mountain elk breeding season runs from mid-September through mid-October. I carried a bear bell (and bear spray) to alert larger animals of my approach. Bear canisters are required for food storage in the backcountry. Canisters may be checked out for free when you pick up your permit. 

Teton Loop Terrain

The Teton Loop has varied terrain but nothing too challenging. Starting at Jenny Lake, the route leads you through a large meadow before entering the alpine forest along the Valley Trail. This section of trail is spotted with numerous lakes and creeks and water is ample. As you begin climbing up to the crest, you will encounter rockier terrain; however, trails are well maintained along the remainder of the crest.

Teton Loop Logistics: Permits, Camping, Leave No Trace

Permits: A backcountry permit is required for all overnight stays in Grand Teton National Park. Camping is only permitted in designated camping zones. Regardless of the processes outlined below, make sure you have several alternative itineraries on hand when securing your permit.

The advance reservation system is highly competitive! One-third of permits are reserved for each camping zone. Reservations for the summer season are accepted January through May (check the park website to find out what day and time they are released for the current season). Reservations are accepted on recreation.gov and require a $45 nonrefundable processing fee. 

The remaining two-thirds of permits are saved for first come, first served. These permits are available at the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center, Colter Bay Visitor Center, and the Jenny Lake Ranger Station. Permits are available the day of your start day or one day in advance. There is a $35 fee for each walk-in backcountry permit.

Camping: Some of the backcountry camping zones of Grand Teton National Park, such as Marion Lake, have “improved” sites with designated tent sites and bear boxes. Other camping zones lack these amenities and backpackers should use existing bare ground sites to minimize impact. You must always camp at least 200 feet from water and the trail, so that you are out of sight and sound of others. 

Leave No Trace: Campsite “improvements,” such as constructing benches and digging trenches, are prohibited. Fires are also prohibited in the backcountry. Visitors are required to carry out all food scraps and trash (including toilet paper and used tampons or sanitary pads). These items can be disposed of at the Jenny Lake Trailhead when you complete the loop. Additionally, bury all human waste 6-8 inches deep in soil that is at least 200 feet from lakes, streams, and wetlands.

Know Before You Go

Weather: Weather conditions and temperatures can change quickly in the Teton Range. Check forecasts and be prepared for cold temperatures, especially at higher elevations. Weather forecasts for Jackson, Wyoming, or Moose, Wyoming, (the closest towns) may not reflect conditions at higher elevations. Check with a park ranger when you pick up your permit for more accurate information.

Bears: Black and grizzly bears live in Grand Teton National Park. Carry bear spray and know how to use it. Backcountry campers are required to use an Interagency Grizzly Bear Committee approved canister for storing food, toiletries, and garbage. (Bonus: They also protect against rodents!) 

Water: Water is available from the many lakes and mountain streams. Treat all water with portable water filters, chemical methods, or by boiling. Assume all untreated water contains harmful organisms.

Difficulty: The route described should only be attempted by experienced hikers. Steep climbs and changes in altitude could negatively impact hiking endurance and overall physical health. Prepare yourself with good physical conditioning and basic first aid staples such as ibuprofen, blister care, and electrolytes.

Shorter Options: Listen to your body and take one of the cutoffs described above if needed.

Additional Teton Loop Resources

Backcountry Camping – Grand Teton National Park (website)

Backcountry Camping – Grand Teton National Park (pdf)

Backcountry Permits –Recreation.gov (website)

Inger Appanaitis is a modern-day Viking leading solo expeditions through the Pacific and Mountain West regions. Despite growing up on the Southern Oregon Coast, she thrives in the alpine! Some of her favorite areas to explore are the Eastern Sierra, San Juan Mountains, and the Northern Rockies (Beartooths, Sawtooths, Tetons, and Winds…oh my!). Follow along for dogs, training, and trails @ingerfied

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Granite Peak is a stunning mountain nestled in the Beartooth Mountains of South Central Montana. The peak is the highest point in the state at 12,799 feet. The standard approach is accessed via an out-and-back route starting at the popular West Rosebud Trailhead to Mystic Lake.

Region: Mountain West (Custer Gallatin National Forest, Montana)
Distance: 25 miles (round trip)
Season: Summer
Total elevation gain: 6,300 feet

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Steep hiking and scrambling at high elevation
• Class 4 climbing, with possible class 5 moves
• Relentless loose talus/rock fields

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate 

• No permit needed
• Water on route 
• Navigation skills necessary

Hiking the West Rosebud/Phantom Creek Trail to Granite Peak

The West Rosebud Trail is a highly approachable 3-mile section of this hike, on one of the most popular trails in Montana. The West Rosebud Trail begins at the power plant, then ascends through the forest to a rocky overlook before descending to Mystic Lake. Once at the lake, continue for another ½ mile before turning left onto the Phantom Creek Trail, marked with a wooden sign. 

If you read any other information for this trail, this is where you will start to encounter mentions of the “Switchbacks from Hell.” When first reading that name, I was prepared for a heinous sloped scree field. It turns out this is not the case at all,  and if I named this section, I would have called it “Just a Lot of Switchbacks, but it’s Actually Quite Pleasant.”

You will gain nearly 3,000 feet in around two miles, but you will do so on a level and well-maintained trail while bearing witness to a gorgeous, postcard-worthy scene as you rise above the lake, and eventually above treeline. (Pro tip: If you get bored, start counting the switchbacks with fun names, as I did. I counted 28 and named each one. E.g., 10 is Bien, 17: Yas Kween, 24: Just a few more!) 

Once you pass the switchbacks, you can gain the Froze to Death (FTD) plateau. There are multiple ways to do this, but there is a worn path marking a popular exit from the Phantom Creek Trail just past the switchbacks. This path will end shortly, and no dedicated trail exists from this point onward. Here is a good place to start using your navigation tools. I recommend using a GPX track on a mapping platform (I use Gaia, but OnX is another good option) to guide your path.

While the plateau has some visual landmarks and cairns, it can be easy to get turned around. Be sure to stay right of the gravelly peaks, including Froze to Death Peak, while you traverse the plateau. You will find water from snowmelt along the plateau as you continue on toward the Tempest/Granite area. The FTD plateau will not be the relief you are seeking from the switchbacks, as you continue to gain significant elevation as you inch closer to Granite. Parties that choose to do Granite in three or more days will camp along this first section of the plateau. Look for built windbreaks in a semi-protected natural dip in the plateau.

As you approach the Tempest mountain area, you will see a crest with a large cairn. The descent after this crest is the beginning of the Granite climbing approach. There are no comfortable camping locations past this point unless you want to snuggle with loose rock on a steep slope. Instead, there will be a large rock wind shelter area near the crest. This is your best location for camping the night before the summit as it provides the best launching point for the traverse to the Tempest/Granite saddle and to Granite Peak.

Note: If you or anyone in your party is not prepared to climb Granite, Tempest Mountain is highly attainable and walkable from this location. This non-technical peak is just 400 feet lower than Granite and will offer incredible views of the peak and surrounding wilderness. Some folks will camp lower than the crest; if you do, be sure to mark your location so you can easily find it again after your summit, and skip spending 1.5 hours wandering the homogeneous surface of the plateau looking for your gear (no, not speaking from experience, why would you ask?).

On your summit day, you will top the crest, and descend/traverse toward the saddle between Tempest and Granite. There is a faint trail marked by cairns through 3rd and 4th class terrain. At the saddle, you will cross the saddle ridge and continue to follow a faint climber’s trail toward the summit. Depending on conditions and snow, you can also forgo the trail to scramble the saddle ridge here—continuous 4th-class scrambling on blocky granite. The climber’s trail below the ridge and climbers left is much faster if open.

Continue on this trail until you can see the snow bridge, a narrow area before several 4th-class chimneys. Late season, this will be a loose, gravelly saddle. Take a minute here to plan your route across the snow bridge and through the chimney systems. You will pass the first rappel anchors as you navigate the chimneys toward a notch, staying left of the rock with an “X” feature, clearly visible before crossing the snow bridge. Once past the notch, you will downclimb a bit and be able to view the final summit face.

Start your final ascent near a large boulder with a horizontal crack scrambling up 4th class between two chimney features. You will see rappel stations on these pitches as well. Continue left along an exposed bouldery ledge and continue to a conspicuous keyhole feature near the top of the face. Climb LEFT of the keyhole to avoid 5th class moves, and scramble the last few blocky moves to the summit. Sign the register and lie on the summit block like the little sun lizard that you are (or cloud lizard, or snow lizard, or sleet lizard, depending on conditions). 

Descent: Put that thing down, flip it, and reverse it! Be sure to pay close attention (and look behind you) to notable features as you climb up to help speed up your descent. There are cairns marking several “paths,” and it’s easy to take a different way down. I would recommend a 60- or 70-meter rope to avoid multiple rappels on the face section. Be sure to inspect each anchor and either avoid it or add additional slings/rap rings if it looks unsafe/chewed up. If you are comfortable downclimbing these sections, this will be much faster than rappels. 

EDITORS NOTE: We mention it several times in this article, but it bears repeating here as well—this is a highly technical route that requires, at minimum, advanced scrambling skills, and is probably best suited to hikers with climbing, mountaineering, and off-trail navigational skills. You’ve been warned.

Permits: No permit needed.

Getting to Granite Peak via West Rosebud Trailhead

Nearest City: Red Lodge, Montana (43 miles)

The West Rosebud Trailhead is accessible by car, and you are able to park overnight or for several nights at the designated parking lot. Note as of 9/18/2022: Due to flooding in the area, the original trailhead access is closed until bridges can be restored. Parking is 0.65 miles before the trailhead, and access by foot is permitted.

When to hike Granite Peak via West Rosebud Trailhead

Mid to late summer is the best time to attempt this peak. While attempts have been made year-round, please consider your abilities as a mountaineer or alpinist if attempting to bag this peak in any other season. There is a small snow bridge that usually remains in until the end of the summer, so check current conditions to determine what gear you may need. Weather is always a factor on the exposed plateau and peak, so be prepared with sufficient rain gear and warm/dry layers. A wind layer is also recommended.

Granite Peak via West Rosebud Trailhead Terrain 

West Rosebud Trail: Maintained and well-marked trail starting at the power plant. Dirt and rocky trail through forest along the creek. 

Phantom Creek: Well-traveled trail, mostly level with dirt and gravel. 

Froze to Death Plateau: Mixed rock and vegetated tundra. Uneven, with no clear trail. 

Climber’s Trail to Summit: Relentless talus, some loose granite scrambling, and class 4 (possibly low 5th class) granite face to the summit. 

Logistics for Granite Peak via West Rosebud Trailhead

Resupply: No resupply is possible on this route. Only self-supported travel in this zone unless you’re friends with a helicopter pilot.

Camping and Permits: No permits are necessary. There are official campsites at Mystic Lake, then dispersed camping on the plateau, including built-up windbreaks. It is highly recommended to camp at the windbreaks right before cresting to the saddle of Tempest Peak and Granite Peak. This will give you a great launching point for your summit bid.

What Type of Land: Land acknowledgement: These recreation trails are on native Apsáalooke (Crow) lands. 

Custer Gallatin National Forest: West Rosebud Trail to Mystic Lake

Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness: Phantom Creek Trail, Froze to Death Plateau, and Granite Summit

Curious about the difference between wilderness area and national forest designations? Check out this article from Nature. 

Water: No water from the 4th switchback on Phantom Creek Trail to the FTD plateau.

Water from snowmelt consistently on FTD plateau, but always check local information if going late season.

Special Gear: The technicality of climbing Granite Peak depends on the conditions and the amount of experience as a hiker or mountaineer. In the early seasons, be sure to bring crampons and an ice axe, as the snow bridge will likely still be in. Snow travel skills are necessary. 

For all seasons, bring rain gear, layers, a helmet, and shoes with high-friction rubber (approach shoes recommended).

Consider bringing a rope, harness, lockers, belay device, prusik, extra webbing, and even a few pieces of protection. If you are an avid climber and mountaineer and are comfortable pulling (and downclimbing) lower 5th-class moves in highly exposed terrain, this gear may not be necessary. Consider the skills and comfort level of your whole crew before ditching extra gear.

Know Before You Go

• This route, while highly attainable, should not be underestimated. The approach is gnarly. The plateau is exposed, and afternoon storms are frequent.
•  Granite summit bids are the reason for multiple search and rescue calls each summer. Don’t be caught unprepared—this is not a walk-up. Be prepared to navigate on the plateau in any conditions. Bring a SPOT or InReach as an emergency backup. 
• There are cairns everywhere on the plateau and summit trails. DO NOT rely solely on cairns to navigate, as there are multiple trails. Be thoughtful in considering your route.
• This is grizzly bear and mountain goat country. Bring bear spray and supplies to hang a bear bag if camping low. Beware of mountain goats while camping on the plateau, as they like to lick the salt from urine. Make sure to urinate a safe distance from your campsite as they will be sure to pay you(r pee) a visit. 

Resources

• Granite Peak Summit Post page  for detailed climbing ascent beta and photos
• Beartooth Publishing: Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness Map
• Roscoe’s Grizzly Bar for a post-summit burger

Dawn Brintnall is a retired old sea captain, outdoor enthusiast, and writer living in Red Lodge, Montana. Her favorite activities include battling ye olde salty sea, climbing, and mountain biking. Usually, you can find her tutoring disadvantaged dolphins or walking around muttering about “gold in them hills.” 

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The Waterville Valley Skyline Loop is a challenging New Hampshire hike, covering 15 trails and nine peaks. The entire loop is roughly 34 miles long and has about 10,150 feet of elevation gain. This is not for the faint of heart, but the rewards are worth the effort.

Region: New England (White Mountain National Forest, New Hampshire)
Distance: 34 miles, 2-4 days

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Weather changes in the White Mountains must be monitored
• Rocky climbs for the ascents of Mt. Tecumseh, Mt. Osceola, East Osceola and North Tripyramid.  
• The slides on North and South Tripyramid should be navigated with care only in dry conditions.
• Cumulative elevation makes for near continuous climbing

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

• Livermore Trailhead provides a perfect spot for either a one-day trip or multi-day trip. Using a car as a midpoint allows hikers to carry less gear if they desire.
• No resupply options – pack what you need in your car.
• No permit required; however, parking must be paid for at Livermore Trailhead if you do not have a White Mountain National Forest parking permit ($5/day at the iron ranger).

Season: Summer, early fall

Elevation (average): ~2,500 feet
Total Elevation Gain: ~10,150 feet

Hiking the Waterville Valley Skyline Loop

The Waterville Valley Skyline Loop is not comprised of new trails; in fact many of them can be found in the Appalachian Mountain Club White Mountain Guide.  The Loop strings together trails from the AMC guide, Waterville Valley cross-country ski routes, and Tripoli Road.  The intention of the established loop is to bring hikers to the Waterville Valley area, a less popular area than Franconia Ridge or the Pemigewasset Wilderness. This area also doesn’t get as much attention from hikers as the Presidentials to the northeast.  While this is a quiet, desirable feature of these trails and mountains, the community is eager to share it with others.

I have hiked the Skyline Loop in a variety of ways. I did this intentionally so I could experience it from both the overnight hiker and day hiker perspective. This loop is traditionally hiked clockwise starting with Mt. Tecumseh. I never hike without checking the mountain weather forecast from a variety of sources, including the National Weather Service Recreational Report for higher summits. Since these peaks are in the 4,000-foot ballpark, this forecasting is reliable. That said, prepare for all weather conditions in the Whites regardless of season. My kit includes rain layers, warm layers, hat, and gloves … even in the summer. 

Overnight Trip on the Waterville Valley Skyline Loop

I gathered a few friends for a 20-mile backpacking trip of the west loop. The weather forecast was for the 60s during the day and high 40s at night.  We started at the Livermore Trailhead and headed to Mt. Tecumseh by taking the Pipeline Trail to the Waterville Valley Resort and the location of the Mt. Tecumseh Trailhead.  This mountain is frequently hiked.  The trailhead has received a lot of work over the years, which includes the installation of the longest set of stairs I have ever seen.  We summited, had a snack and headed down toward Tripoli Road.  We were banking on refilling our water at the brook near the Tecumseh Trailhead at Tripoli Road and were rewarded with a flowing stream, despite dry conditions.  We loaded up knowing water would be scarce until the Greeley Ponds area.

We headed east on Tripoli Road for just over a one-mile dirt road walk.  I was surprised to pass open campsites along the road on this busy Saturday in August.  These are first-come, first-serve spots that would make a great camping option for this area if you don’t want to deal with White Mountain National Forest Backcountry Camping Rules. If you plan on staying on Tripoli Road, make sure you check in with the caretaker and pay the fee. This area can be challenging to tent camp due to the terrain. Hammock campers will have an easier time setting up and following the strict rules. Other camping options include Osceola Vista Campground on Tripoli Road. This campground has a combination of reservable and first-come, first-serve sites. The same goes for Waterville Campground, a short drive from this area.

Our hike up Mt. Osceola was gradual and comfortable with an overnight pack. The open summit is 2.9 miles from the trailhead and easily one of the best vistas on this hike. We took some time for a snack before heading over to East Osceola.  You will descend the famous chimney between the peaks.  On this day, we chose the bypass because we had overnight packs.  We made short work of this section and summited East Osceola quickly.  This treed-in summit has a cairn to signify the top.

The descent down the Mt. Osceola trail to the Greeley Ponds Trail is steep and unrelenting for just over a mile—in some spots the grade is over 25%. The trail eases up substantially as you come into the Greeley Ponds Scenic Area.  We hooked a right onto the Greeley Ponds Trail looking for flowing water. We passed by the Greeley Ponds, considering filtering from here but decided to take our chances on hitting flowing water at Mad River. We were thrilled to see the water was flowing nicely a few tenths of a mile south of Lower Greeley Pond. We stocked up for the night and set to work locating our camping location for the night.  We set up off the Greeley Ponds Trail, in keeping with backcountry camping principles, a few miles from the Livermore Trailhead, making for an easy walk out in the morning and a total of 20 miles for the west side of the Skyline Loop.

Tripyramids

There is such versatility with this loop. Livermore Trailhead makes a perfect spot for resupply if you plan on doing this in two-plus days. You can also hike part of the loop from this lot. The Tripyramids are a staple for any Northeast hiker checking off their 48 4,000-footers. The Skyline Loop recommends use of the Scaur Trail, giving hikers a gentle ascent to access North Tripyramid.  If you are feeling adventurous, take the detour and do the North Slide.  Be prepared for hand-over-hand climbing and tricky rock wall navigation.  You will be rewarding with breathtaking views and a badge of honor.  DO NOT attempt North Slide if it’s raining or the slabs have a chance of being wet.  Also, do not go down North Slide.  To follow the loop on the map, go up Scaur Ridge Trail to North Tripyramid, travel across the relatively tame and treed ridge walk and down the South Slide.  South Slide has a fair amount of scree, but it is manageable and short.

Kettle’s Path, Irene’s Path, Old Skidder Trail and Snows Mountain

I had not seen this section of the trail before preparing to write this article, and I will certainly go back. I parked at Livermore Trailhead on a beautiful Saturday, and I was surprised to not be sharing these sections of trail with another soul. I took all side trail options, which gave me a breathtaking view of Waterville Valley from the Scaur. I also visited the Flume Spur off the intersection of Irene’s Path and Old Skidder Trail. The water must rage here in spring and the rock chimney is worth checking out. Old Skidder Trail is not used much, so just a faint footpath remains. This entire area is connected by a system of “roads.” Essentially these are carriage roads used for mountain biking and cross-country skiing.  After exploring these sections, I filtered water from Slide Brook and took the carriage road over to get on the Snows Mountain Trail, then hiked toward Snows Mountain clockwise. My ascent was nearly 1,000 feet, and the summit has an overgrown outlook, but if you continue clockwise on your descent, you will come to a second outlook over Waterville Valley.  Heading down this way was much tamer.

How to get to the Waterville Valley Skyline Loop

Nearest Town: Waterville Valley

Located off Tripoli Road, Livermore Trailhead is prime for accessing this area.  Waterville Valley is a quaint town, with coffee shops and a country club.  The mountains and skiing are a major draw in this area.  Note: Tripoli Road is closed in the winter, so Livermore Trailhead may be accessed through the village of Waterville Valley.

When to Hike the Waterville Valley Skyline Loop

Fair weather hikers will want to stick to the warmer months of late May through early October.  Year-round hikers, with proper gear, including snowshoes and microspikes, will be able to enjoy some of these trails.  Enjoyment in the winter is limited by your interest in properly breaking trail in snowshoes, and experience is necessary. Please do not walk down the middle of the groomed cross-country trails in the winter!  

In clear weather, hikers will be rewarded with amazing views of the Whites.  As always, check the weather forecast (see below) and turn around if conditions deteriorate beyond your ability to stay safe. 

Waterville Valley Skyline Loop Terrain 

The bulk of this loop is classic White Mountain National Forest terrain.  Rocks, roots, and slabs dot most of the trails. The cross-country trails are a nice break on the legs. I always say the Whites are not for the faint of heart, so be prepared to work for all of your elevation gain, especially with a heavy pack.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water and Gear

Permits:  The Waterville Valley Skyline Loop is located in the White Mountain National Forest.  A permit for parking can be obtained ahead of time.  Otherwise, pay the $5 at the Livermore Trailhead parking lot.  The same goes for other lots located on this loop and managed by the WMNF.

Camping: While camping is permitted, you must follow White Mountain National Forest Backcountry Camping Rules. The terrain here is brutal for tent camping. Rocks and roots making finding a flat spot nearly impossible. Experienced backpackers may find a place to camp around 2,500 feet in some places.  Hammock campers will do best on this loop.  Established camping areas in close proximity include:

Tripoli Road Camping Area. Fee required and may be sold out early in the day in the summer.

Osceola Vista Campground

Waterville Campground

Water: Water is plentiful despite the moderate drought in this area in 2022.  While it looks clean and is flowing, filter or treat it! I carried 1.5 liters most of the time, filling up with extra at Mad River for the overnight.  You will not find water up high (over 2,000 feet in most places), so grab water when you can. 

Special Gear: 

• Poles are invaluable in this terrain
• Paper map and Gaia GPS with downloaded maps.
• Ten Essentials for Hiking

Know Before You Go

Waterville Valley Recreation Department did a great job stringing together existing trails to create an adventure for day hikers and backpackers alike. I was impressed with how quiet the eastern side of the trail was (with the exception of the Tripyramids). I love the versatility of the trail system in that it provides day and overnight options if you plan well.  

Resources

Waterville Valley Skyline Loop: Information and map 

White Mountain National Forest Camping 

National Weather Service Recreational Report: For the White Mountains

Hiker friendly campgrounds:

Osceola Vista Campground 

Waterville Campground

Tripoli Road Camping Area

Appalachian Mountain Club White Mountain Guide and maps

Gaia GPS

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The Bear River Range Traverse is a challenging point-to-point backpacking route in Northern Utah that crosses the heart of the Mount Naomi Wilderness. It stitches together multiple on-trail and off-trail segments in the Cache National Forest and can be hiked in 2-4 days.

Region: Mountain West (Cache National Forest, Utah)
Length: 44 miles (2-4 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• This trail features significant elevation gain and loss, including scrambling to peaks near 10,000 feet
• Occasional sections are off-trail or feature faint trails
• Lack of water is a concern in the Bear River Range, requiring attention to the distance between sources

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Route options exist in the area, but exploring the Bear River Range as a multi-day adventure generally requires a car shuttle between trailheads
• Planning is required around water sources, especially on the southern section of the route

Season: Summer and fall
Average Elevation: ~8,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 16,500 feet

Hiking the Bear River Range Traverse

The Bear River Range Traverse is a 44-mile backpacking trail roughly following the crest of the Bear River Range through the Mount Naomi Wilderness. The Bear River Range is a subrange of the Wasatch in Northern Utah and Southern Idaho and features steep limestone peaks, mountain lakes, and sweeping drainages filled with pine and aspen forests. Much of the trail is above treeline and several major summits in the range are directly along the route, with others nearby as scrambly side trips. The range is home to several endemic species and Great Basin ecological diversity. This route will appeal to backpackers looking for a long weekend trip with big views and a sense of solitude along many of its segments, especially during late season. 

This route starts at the Spring Hollow Campground off Highway 89 in Logan Canyon. The route overlaps with the popular Crimson Trail, which highlights the canyon’s limestone walls. After several miles, the route descends and crosses the highway before it climbs to the main ridge and wilderness boundary. From there, hikers follow the steep ridgetop trail and summit Beirdneau Peak, entering the heart of the Mount Naomi Wilderness. Roughly following the ridge, scrambly side trails lead to Mounts Jardine and Elmer, less than 2 trail miles apart. The first reliable water isn’t until Tony Grove Lake, where a campground and trailhead access the wilderness area. From Tony Grove, it’s less than three miles to Naomi Peak, the range’s highest point at 9,979 feet. The most technical side trip on the route is to Mount Magog, a quick Class 3 summit prior to Naomi Peak (you can also just stay on the trail to Naomi). A large sinkhole sits on the ridge between the two peaks, one of numerous sinkholes and caves in the porous limestone of the Bear River Range. 

From Naomi Peak, the trail switches back down the west face of the range into High Creek Canyon, where a reliable stream flows down the drainage from picturesque High Creek Lake. Descending High Creek Canyon leads to another trailhead, and possible exit point via a car shuttle. This route climbs back up to the ridge via the North Fork of High Creek and crosses the Idaho border briefly at the top of the climb. The next section follows an undulating ridge and requires off-trail travel to the remote and seldom-visited Doubletop Mountain. The trail’s final descent rolls down Steam Mill drainage, where reliable water is found most of the year. The route ends at the Franklin Basin Trailhead, just down Logan Canyon from Beaver Mountain Ski Resort.

Getting to the Bear River Range Traverse

Nearest City: Logan, Utah (7 miles from Spring Hollow Campground, 28 miles from Franklin Basin Road)

Southern Terminus: Spring Hollow Campground

Northern Terminus: Franklin Basin Road

Logan sits 80 miles north of Salt Lake City, Utah, at the base of the Bear River Range. It’s 1 hour and 15 minutes from Salt Lake International Airport to Logan via I-15 North and Highway 89/91. Follow Highway 89 into Logan Canyon to access the trailhead termini described above. Numerous other entry and exit points to the area sit conveniently on or near Highway 89 or Highway 91 toward the Idaho border.

Shuttle: The simplest way to hike the Bear River Range Traverse is using a car shuttle between the trailheads. Reaching out to the local outdoor community in Logan is a good option if you don’t have two vehicles (also see: https://hitchwiki.org/en/Utah).

When to Hike the Bear River Range Traverse

This route is best hiked from June to October. Snow in the Mount Naomi Wilderness usually melts out by June and doesn’t return with consistency until November or December (October storms are fairly common, but are generally stand-alone events). July-September can see temperatures near 100 degrees and exposed climbs and ridge walks can bring heat-related challenges. June brings mosquitoes, but the aridity of the range keeps the numbers below considerable levels. Expect cold nights if attempting the route late in the season. 

Bear River Range Traverse Terrain

Much of the Bear River Range Traverse is above treeline and exposed to the Utah sun. The route is generally well-defined. Sections like Beirdneau Ridge, the scramble to Mount Magog, and the Doubletop Ridge feature off or faint trail travel or Class 3 scrambling. Side trips to summit Mount Jardine or Mount Elmer also require scrambling. This route stitches together a number of trails in the Mount Naomi Wilderness; maps or GPS are recommended to ensure correct trails are taken at junctions. Much of the existing signage in the area is aging.

Logistics: Land Designation, Water, Special Gear

Land Designation: The Bear River Range Traverse travels through the Cache National Forest and the Mount Naomi Wilderness. These areas are managed out of the Logan Ranger District, whose offices are at the mouth of Logan Canyon and where hikers can find more information about current conditions. Designated wilderness management emphasizes providing outstanding opportunities for solitude or a primitive and unconfined type of recreation. These qualities abound along this route. Hikers should be respectful of one another and of the sensitive natural resources in the range. Following Leave No Trace practices in campsite selection, wildlife encounters (the range is home to black bear, moose, marmots, pika, deer, elk, and rattlesnakes) and human waste disposal (catholes at least 6 inches deep, pack out toilet paper) is essential. Proper food storage and caution should be exercised. Pit toilets are available at Tony Grove Campground, High Creek Trailhead, and Franklin Basin Trailhead. No permits are required to hike in the Bear Rivers. Tony Grove Campground is a fee area, though the route described above merely passes through it.

Water: Water is not plentiful in the Bear River Range, but can be reliably found at Tony Grove Lake, High Creek Lake, flowing in High Creek Canyon, and along the Steam Mill drainage. The Logan River flows near the beginning of the route if you need to top off before hitting the trail. Treating water in the area is essential. Tony Grove Lake sits 22 miles into the route described here. Water may be found at Cottonwood Spring (17 miles into the route), but relying on this source without consulting the U.S. Forest Service is not recommended. The author of this guide has spent countless hours on desert trails in the Southwest, including the arid Southern California section of the Pacific Crest Trail. The southern section of this route is the only place the author has ever experienced dehydration while temperatures were in the high 90s. Following that experience, the author recommends 6 liters of water to reach Tony Grove Lake from the route start depending on itinerary and prior hydration (more water is recommended if dry camping on this section).

Special Gear: Sunscreen, UPF clothing, and electrolytes are highly recommended. Snow gear, such as an ice axe, may be required in early season travel. Consult the U.S. Forest Service Logan Ranger District for current conditions. 

Know Before You Go

Keep an eye on information from the U.S. Forest Service regarding closures and water availability. Fires are rare in the Bear River Range, but not unheard of. As with any alpine travel, consideration of snow levels and conditions are essential. The Bear River Range is not well-traveled in many areas, so make sure your plans are well-communicated with someone on the outside.

There is cell coverage on the summits overlooking Cache Valley (the author uses Verizon, but this is universal due to the size of the greater Logan population center). These locations include Naomi Peak, Doubletop Mountain, Mount Magog, and Beirdneau Peak.

Be prepared for faint trail navigation and off-trail travel in addition to Class 3 scrambling to reach locations like Mount Jardine, Mount Elmer, and Mount Magog. Be aware of wildlife while hiking as the Bear River Range Traverse travels through bear, moose, and rattlesnake habitat.

Due to remote sections, off-trail travel, a large water carry, and large amounts of elevation gain and loss, this route is not recommended for beginner backpackers.

Resources

Learn about wilderness designation

Regional bus travel (including Logan City and Salt Lake International Airport)

Logan Ranger District

Cache Trails Alliance

Caleb Meyer (he/him) is a hiker and conservation social science researcher based in Utah. In addition to countless hikes, backpacking trips and other generous times in the outdoors, Caleb hiked the Pacific Crest Trail in 2019 and the Colorado Trail in 2021. Outside of long-distance hiking, Caleb spends his time running, skiing, and working in public land management. Follow along on Instagram: @topohikes

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The Great Divide Trail is a 1,123km (697-mile) Canadian continuation of the Continental Divide Trail. It starts at the U.S.-Canada border at Waterton Lakes National Park and traverses the Canadian Rockies before ending at Kakwa Provincial Park, and typically takes around 50 days. 

Region: Mountain West, International (Canadian Rockies)
Distance: 697 miles (42-60 days)

Season: Summer 
Total Elevation Gain: ~138,000 feet

Hiking the Great Divide Trail

The Great Divide Trail packs in some of the most prestigious, remote, and beautiful hikes in Canada into one package. The Great Divide Trail Association calls it the “wildest thru-hike,” and it’s not far off. The trail is broken up into seven sections, described below.

Section A: Waterton Monument to Coleman, Alberta

There is little warm-up on this trail. Right from day one there are substantial climbs up to alpine ridges and descents to crystal-blue lakes. The difficulty is increased as a massive portion of Waterton Lakes National Park was burned in a fire during the summer of 2017. Hiking through the burn can ramp up the temperature. On around day three or four, one of the hardest climbs of the entire trail begins as you ascend La Coulette Ridge, an off-trail climb up several peaks. The combination of over 5,000 feet of gain and off-trail scree travel means most people will only go 10-15 miles this day. After the ridge you will stay at much lower elevations for the rest of the section and most of the notable climbs will be out of the way. 

I recommend taking a zero in Coleman. Blairmore is a short way down the highway but doesn’t attract nearly the same amount of hikers. Check out Safe Haven BnB and the Paddock Inn; both are aware of GDT hikers and will usually have a special deal. If you need to shop, you will need to head to Blairmore, but it is a quick hitch or inexpensive cab

Top Alternate Pick: Barnaby Ridge is a continuation of La Coulette Ridge that continues traversing at ridge crest for several more miles. There is no water unless you drop down to Grizzly Lake so plan accordingly. This alternate will normally add a full day, is exceptionally difficult, and does require some scrambling.

Section B: Coleman, Alberta, to Boulton Creek, Alberta

This section has recently undergone a massive trail building campaign and has been rerouted to avoid a substantial road walk down a logging road. Starting out the section is a short walk down a dirt road before peeling off onto the High Rock Trail, which will be officially open for the summer of 2022. From here you climb up to the beautiful Window Mountain Lake and then along huge a rock wall for several miles. There are no camping reservations needed for Section B, which makes it very easy to plan. There is a lot of hiking in meadows and the flowers can be exceptional at the beginning of July. Section B also features Tornado Pass, one of the more precarious climbs with the final ascent around 30% grade up scree. Section B ends in around 20 miles of road walking, but it’s a dirt road that doesn’t see a ton of traffic. You can usually get a few bars of service here. 

The only option for a zero is at the Boulton Creek car campground. Choosing a powered site is key, otherwise you will spend your entire zero charging all your devices while sitting outside the camp store. There is no internet or phone service at the campground.

Section C: Boulton Creek, Alberta, to Field, British Columbia

This section is essentially most of Canada’s world-renowned trails packed into one section. The Rockwall Trail, Mount Assiniboine, Healy/Ball Pass, Egypt Lake … all of these trails are bucket-list hikes, which means reservations are extremely hard to get for certain campsites, and all sites through here need to be booked ahead. This is the busiest section of the entire trail, but most hikers are unaware of the Great Divide Trail. Some people break up this section by taking a zero in Banff, which adds a bit of distance, so plan accordingly. This section has some of the most spectacular, sweeping alpine views and the trail is in great condition. It feels easier than others due to the exceptional trail condition, particularly in contrast to some of the later sections with river crossings and bushwhacking. 

Many people will choose to zero in the town of Lake Louise, a short hitch from the town of Field where Section D starts. There is a great hostel in Lake Louise, and they have the cheapest food and beer in town. 

Top Alternate Pick: Northover Ridge. From the outset of the section you will head up Northover Ridge, which is the true Continental Divide. This typically adds a full day but has some of the best views on the entire trail.

Section D: Field, British Columbia, to Saskatchewan Crossing, Alberta

Starting off Section D you have a choice between taking the original trail and the Kiwetinok Alternate. The original trail is around 20 miles of overgrown roads, and I’ve heard it can be very mentally challenging and a slow go. The Kiwetinok Alternate starts on the Iceline Trail. I took this because I knew how beautiful the Iceline Trail is, but this also involves booking a hard-to-get site at Little Yoho. Some people will hike all the way over the Kiwetinok Pass, but this is an exceptionally long day with over 6,000 feet of gain. After the Kiwetinok Alternate rejoins the official trail, it almost exclusively follows the valley and river floodplain. After fording the Saskatchewan River more times than you can count, you will be near the end of the section. Large portions of this section are on the floodplain so expect wet feet and be careful with the crossings as the water is cold and certain areas are deep. Big miles are easy on this section, and there isn’t a lot of elevation gain with exception of the Kiwetinok Alternate. 

Saskatchewan Crossing Resort is the only option for accommodation and resupply at the end of this section. The resort does not have cell service and the internet sometimes works, but only to check email. The resort will hold a resupply box for a fee, but will waive it if you stay the night. It is expensive but most hikers will zero here and play endless Ping-Pong in the game room. The resort store has a decent selection of food, but it is insanely expensive; a fuel can costs nearly $20. 

Top Alternate Pick: Kiwetinok. If you want to see glaciers, this is the trail for you. From here you will ascend over a pass and descend through a large boulder field. There is a very steep climb and then another bushwhacking descent. The alternate is relatively new, but the trail is being broken in and it is very well flagged.

Additionally, I recommend the Collie Creek alternate. It shaves off a handful of logging road miles but does involve a river crossing. The blueberries can be great on this alternate.

Section E: Saskatchewan Crossing, Alberta, to Jasper, Alberta

This is another great section for anyone looking for a shorter hike and who doesn’t want to deal with campsite reservations. The hike heads steeply up the Owen Creek drainage and then leaves you with long alpine travel and sporadic trail.

These are some of the biggest views on the biggest terrain of the trail. The route-finding is easy and can be good practice if you are new to off-trail hiking. You will hit the official high point at mile 2,725 on the ironically named Unnamed Pass. You can continue on this section without reservations (but with an Alberta Public Lands Camping Pass) all the way Cataract Pass. After descending Cataract Pass you will be on the Brazeau Loop, a popular multiday hike.

The trail is in great shape and the campsites are nice, but you will need to make reservations. From here you will travel through the Maligne Valley and toward the aquamarine Maligne Lake. Only one party is allowed to travel through the valley per day due to the caribou habitat. Link up with other hikers on the Facebook page ahead of time to coordinate the permit. Arriving at Maligne Lake means there is only about 30 miles left before entering the wonderful town of Jasper, Alberta.

This is on the Skyline Trail, the most popular multiday trail in the park. Again, reservations come at a premium, but some people will hike the entire Skyline Trail in a day. It is long but isn’t exceptionally difficult, as the trail is probably the most manicured section of the entire Great Divide Trail. Afterward there is a bit of a walk through the town trails before arriving in town. Alternatively, you can cab into town but you will be missing some very beautiful lakes and great swimming spots. 

Jasper is the biggest town of the entire trail and has several gear stores, restaurants, and bars. There are two hostels in town, and they will both hold resupply boxes. You can easily resupply from one of the three grocery stores here if you don’t want to mail a box. 

Top Alternate Pick: From the Unnamed Pass and high point, head up the east ridge a few hundred feet for one of the best views you will probably ever see.

Six Passes Alternate: Although closed for 2022, this alternate will hopefully reopen in the future. Rather than descending through the Maligne Valley the trail goes up and over six remote passes, and is entirely off-trail with route finding. It is very difficult and requires good navigation and route-finding skills, as well as confidence in traveling without cairns or flagging. Only one party has been allowed to pass through per day, so the impact has been minimal through this area.

Sections F & G: Jasper, Alberta, to Kakwa Lake, British Columbia

The northernmost sections of the Great Divide Trail combine everything you have already experienced but now it’s more remote and more difficult. On my 2021 hike we only saw two other parties over the course of 11 days.

Until at least 2025, Section F and Section G will need to be linked together. The Berg Lake Trail is a very popular weekend trip and is the delimiter between the two sections. This trail provided access to the highway but was damaged due to extreme flooding. These two sections are typically done in 10-14 days. Leaving Jasper, many people will hitch or cab to avoid a 20-mile road walk. From here you will start heading toward the North Boundary Trail. Section F is relatively flat compared to other sections but can be slow due to mud and deadfall. This is also the first time you will have sizable river crossings that go over the knees and can be quite swift. 

Transitioning into Section G means more river crossings, and even more remote terrain. There will be long meadow walks with sporadic blazes, meaning a lot of it will be choose your own adventure. There are some notable climbs toward the end of the section, until you eventually reach the Jackpine Valley. Until 2021 the Jackpine Valley was one of the most infamous and slowest parts of the trail, with a long bushwhack typically lasting over a day. Thankfully the GDTA has done substantial trail building here and hikers will maintain their sanity. Eventually, you will end at a beautiful backcountry hut at Kakwa Lake. From here it is about 18 miles to the trailhead. From the trailhead it is several hours via logging road to the highway, you will need high-clearance 4×4 to get here. If you need a ride, you can pre-arrange a pickup with Robson Valley Adventures. 

Great Divide Trail Permits

Permits are one of the most challenging aspects of planning a GDT hike. There is no thru-hiker permit; you must book every site like a normal weekend hiker. The trail passes through Banff, Kootenay, Yoho, Jasper, and Waterton national parks; Peter Lougheed, Mount Assiniboine and Mount Robson provincial parks; and some public lands. All of these parks require permits and they are all booked separately on different days.

Each year the reservation days change. In 2022 the national parks reservations were between January 28 and February 2. Peter Lougheed releases permits 90 days in advance, Mount Assiniboine releases permits 60 days in advance, and Mount Robson is closed until 2025. However, you can still hike the Great Divide Trail without camping within Mount Robson Provincial Park.

Booking these permits is the same process for everyone wanting a backcountry reservation, so they are in extremely high demand. Most sites will be booked for the entire summer by midday of the reservation day. If you want to hike the GDT it is essential to be available these days, and ideally plan your entire day around these reservations. 

The Parks Canada reservations are made online, but they can also be made over the phone. On reservation day calling will typically go to voicemail, but they will call you back in the order they receive the messages. Always leave a phone message; it can be drastically faster than using the online portal.

Plan out a flexible itinerary if you can’t get your first choice of campsite. Section C of the trail is the most competitive so many people will start here and plan the rest of the hike around these reservations. Another high-profile section is the northern part of Section E on the Brazeau Loop and the Skyline Trail in Jasper National Park. 

The highest profile site is Floe Lake in Kootenay National Park, which is part of the Rockwall Trail. Another option is staying at Wolverine Pass, which is just outside the park boundary, so it doesn’t require a reservation. There are no facilities, however, and it does include another 2,500 feet of gain.

As mentioned previously, the Skyline Trail is very competitive. Curator campground seems to be the busiest, but choosing Watchtower campground is a good alternative and is only slightly off trail. Lastly, only one party per day is allowed to go through the Maligne Valley, just south of the Skyline Trail. These permits should be made over the phone with the Jasper Backcountry Office at 1-877-737-3783.

Online, Parks Canada requires a reservation Access Point, which is basically a trailhead, but it can get confusing on a thru-hike. This is where planning is necessary. When creating your itinerary, you will need to reference the Parks Canada reservation page ahead of time to see the associated trailheads for each campsite. As you will be traversing multiple parks, several of these sections will need to be booked as independent trips.

Another speed bump is dealing with the dreaded daylight hours error that the online reservation system will trigger. Essentially, the Parks Canada system doesn’t believe you can start at your chosen Access Point and make it to the campground you are trying to reserve. Any distances beyond 19 miles (~30km) will typically trigger this. There are two ways to avoid this: the best option is to chat with someone on the phone by calling the park directly. Otherwise, choose a different Access Point that is closer to the campsite you are trying to book; the Access Point doesn’t really need to be the trailhead you are actually starting from.

If you have multiple days of the daylight hours error, you will need to book each night as a standalone reservation. In other words, choose your Access Point and one campsite, then add to cart. Then for your next night choose another Access Point and then the next campsite. You will incur a reservation fee for each of these even though you are trying to link together a trip. In the past, Parks Canada has refunded these fees if you can show you are on one sequential trip. 

Reservations for the provincial parks are much more straightforward as you will typically only be within the park for a night or two, but they can be just as competitive. Additionally, if you choose to take a zero day at the end of Section B, you will be within Peter Lougheed Provincial Park and will need to book a car camping site. 

If you aren’t hiking the full trail and don’t want to battle for reservations, there are still plenty of sections to hike. Section A only requires a few reservations, and they are easy to come by. Section B doesn’t require any reservations at all. Section D can be done without reservations but having one of the first night will make it easier on the Kiwetinok Alternate. The first half of Section E can be done without any reservations. Section F and Section G also require very few reservations and are easy to reserve. 

With the exception of the Alberta Public Lands Camping Pass and a Parks Canada Discovery Pass, access is free along the entire trail and you only need to pay for campsite reservations.

A Parks Canada Discovery Pass is required for access to national parks, and while most people won’t necessarily have the pass with them it’s a good idea to have a picture of it on your phone. They can be purchased here.

Remote parts of Sections B, E and G will require an Alberta Public Lands Camping Pass. These are $30 and can be booked here.

How to get to the Great Divide Trail 

Nearest City: Calgary, Alberta (169 miles)
Trailhead / Terminus 1: Waterton Lakes National Park. Map it here
Trailhead / Terminus 2: Kakwa Lake Provincial Park. Map it here

The Southern Terminus of the Great Divide Trail is relatively easy to access. It’s in the town of Waterton and accessible by any vehicle. From the Calgary Airport it takes about three hours, but note that you can’t leave a vehicle in Waterton unless you are doing a short section and returning in a few days. 

There are a few options of getting to Waterton for hikers flying in from Calgary. First, is the Airport Shuttle Express, which goes from the airport directly to Waterton National Park. Secondly, is Mountain Man Mikes, a local shuttle that can take you from Calgary to Pincher Creek, Alberta. From Pincher Creek you can take a cab to Waterton National Park for around $100. 

The Northern Terminus of the Great Divide Trail is extremely remote, which means some hikers end their hike in Jasper, Alberta, rather than the terminus in Kakwa Provincial Park. From Jasper you can find multiple shuttles to Edmonton or Calgary, where you can access international airports.

The actual terminus trailhead in Kakwa Provincial Park is 46 miles down a very rough logging road. High clearance and 4×4 are required. Additionally, the trail is very overgrown. You will scratch your vehicle multiple times if attempting to drive to the trailhead. It is also a very slow drive; in 2021 it took a lifted pickup over three hours to access the trailhead. The turn off the highway is on a very remote section of Highway 16, near the town of McBride. From there, the closest city is Prince George, British Columbia, about two hours away. 

Robson Valley Adventures is a local hunting outfitter in the area and has picked up hikers in the past. They do charge a few hundred dollars and availability is limited. They can be reached via Facebook here. They can also drive you to Prince George, British Columbia, or Jasper, Alberta.

When to Hike the Great Divide Trail

The hiking season on the Great Divide Trail is very short. Most people start at the end of June or beginning of July and are off trail by mid-September. The average start date is July 1, and with a 50-day itinerary most people finish in mid-August. Starting in early June means substantial snowpack through avalanche terrain. Starting in late July means you might be hiking into late September, increasing the likelihood of sustained snowfall and bitter temperatures. 

At all times on the Great Divide Trail, hikers should be prepared for snowfall, and as the summer winds down the likelihood of snowfall drastically increases. It is not uncommon for several snowfalls to occur throughout the summer, all with measurable amounts. Additionally, it’s common for temperatures to go below 20F in mid-to-late August. 

Great Divide Trail Navigation

The go-to navigation on the Great Divide Trail is the FarOut (previously Guthook) app. All of the alternates are up to date and it works along the entire trail. However, receiving updates and comments can be hard to come by given that there are only a handful of spots along the entire trail with service. This is a great reason to bring a satellite messenger like a Garmin InReach.

As with all tech, it’s important to have some kind of backup and know how to use it. The Great Divide Trail Association has free topo maps of the entire trail. Just make sure you know how to use a map and compass before heading out, and print the maps with a laser printer so they don’t bleed if they get wet/rained on. We mailed each section’s maps in our resupply boxes.

Great Divide Trail Terrain 

With around 138,000 feet of elevation change, the Great Divide Trail terrain is constantly changing. Hikers will travel through alpine meadows, scree fields, and valley trail networks. A substantial amount of the trail is at or above treeline, with sweeping alpine views. Only about 100 hikers attempt the full trail each year, leaving some sections very remote and quite rugged. The remoteness also means trail maintenance can be very sporadic. Part of this means there are several areas with long stretches of deadfall. There are sections with route-finding and off-trail travel but most of these sections will be on alternates. If you follow the official route you can expect less than 5% of the trail to be true route-finding.

Great Divide Trail Resupply Strategy 

A resupply strategy is necessary on the Great Divide Trail. Throughout the trail there are five true resupply points, with a few other options if necessary. These resupply points will range from towns such as Jasper, Alberta, to car campgrounds with a small camp store. The shortest section is around 60 miles, while the last section is 173 miles. Mail drops are the best option. While it’s possible to resupply directly from all of these places, it’s extremely expensive and very limited. For example, at Saskatchewan Crossing (at the end of Section D), a pack of Pop-Tarts is $12. 

Currently all resupply points (except Boulton Creek at the end of Section B) accept resupply boxes. This can either be at the post office as general delivery or by arranging it with your accommodation. Access to these resupply points is relatively easy, and any road walking will be under three hours. Most people will hitch as some spots are on a busy highways with little to no shoulder. 

One thing to note is the snail pace of Canada Post to some of these resupply locations. A few locations are very remote and may only receive their mail once a week; if you miss the cutoff day this could potentially be a two-week delay. In general, try to have your resupply boxes arrive a month early. Also, I highly suggest mailing them from within Canada to avoid any problems with the border. Canada Post is exceptionally slow compared to the United States Postal Service so plan accordingly.

Great Divide Trail Logistics: Zero Days, Water, Bear Safety

Zero Days: Zero-day accommodation is part of the other preparation that must be done for the Great Divide Trail. With a very short hiking season and limited places to stay, accommodation for a zero-day can be very competitive. As soon as you have your itinerary penciled in, make your bookings for zero-day accommodation. Just make sure you can change it if your finalized campsite reservations alter your plan. The busiest spots will be Boulton Creek, Lake Louise, and Jasper. Finding a place to stay in Coleman can be easier but take note of when the Sinister 7 ultramarathon is taking place as the entire town will be booked up. 

Boulton Creek books up fast, so try to book your campsite the day it opens up. Reserving a powered site is worth it. Also check the map of the campground as some sites are a 10–15-minute walk to showers and the camp store.

If you are staying at the HI-hostel in Lake Louise and in Jasper, consider getting a Hostelling International membership. You will end up saving money if you stay two nights at each of the locations. Both of these hostels will fill up and last-minute bookings can be impossible in places like Jasper, so book these early. 

Lastly, Saskatchewan Crossing Resort will likely be your most expensive accommodation, but can be a great place to hang out with other hikers as it’s the only option other than stealth camping outside the park boundary.

Water: One of the best parts of hiking the Great Divide Trail is the abundant, wonderful quality of water all along the trail. It is very rare to go 10 miles without access to flowing water, and many sources are glacier fed. Most hikers will carry 2L or less and only a few campsites along the entire trail are dry.

Bear Safety: The entire Great Divide Trail travels through grizzly and black bear territory. Bear-proof food storage is necessary, whether you use a bear can or an Ursack. Several campgrounds will have bear lockers in Section C, but outside of this section they are very limited. The PCT method won’t cut it as you will sometimes be above treeline or there won’t be adequate trees for a proper food hang. 

Note: Permits and resupply are the other major logistical issues on this trail, which we covered above.

Know Before You Go

Camping Reservations: We cannot stress enough the monumental task of camping reservations, so have this all lined up before they go live. This means you can’t really adjust your itinerary once it’s booked, so be honest with yourself about your comfort of hiking in snow if you are heading out early. 

Bugs: The bugs can be life-altering. Most hikers will bring a bug head net to keep some sanity. Bug spray can have up to 30% DEET in Canada; if you want anything stronger make sure to purchase it ahead.

Weather: Lastly, prepare for weather. Sustained rain and/or snowfall is almost certainly going to happen. Decent rain gear and strategies for handling moisture and cold weather will pay their dividends.  

To recap, the Great Divide Trail doesn’t have the same kind of feel compared to the Triple Crown trails and only has around 100 thru-hike attempts per year. You will see some other thru-hikers if you start on the popular days like July 1, but once you are mid-hike, most people around you won’t even know about this trail.  

With long sections and heavy food carries, it is far from the easiest trail out there, and without any phone service and limited spots to bail it can be intimidating for new hikers. That being said, if you are looking for long stretches of uninterrupted raw wilderness and countless astounding views this is the trail for you.

Additional Great Divide Trail Resources

The Great Divide Trail Association has sample itineraries and resources for planning a trip. They also run the Great Divide Trail Hikers Facebook page, which has updates on closures, trail status, weather, and other information you might want to know before and during a hike. It’s also a great place to meet up with other hikers. 

Great Divide Trail Association

Great Divide Trail Hikers Facebook

Permits and Reservations

Parks Canada Reservations

BC Parks Reservations

Alberta Parks Reservations

Parks Canada Discovery Pass

Alberta Public Lands Camping Pass

Accommodations

Safe Haven B&B

Paddock Inn

Lake Louise HI Hostel

Saskatchewan Crossing Resort

Jasper Town Hostel

Jasper HI Hostel

Shuttles

Mountain Man Mikes

Robson Valley Adventures

Calgary Airport Shuttle

Austin is a hiker, snowboarder, and student living in Nelson, British Columbia. He is a weekend hiker turned thru-hiker after his 2021 NOBO GDT hike and is happy to call the West Kootenay Mountains his home.

The post Great Divide Trail appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

Region: Southwest (Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Utah)

Distance: 11-45 miles (route depending)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• The trail is undefined and often involves walking through water and over deep sand.
• This route involves careful attention to weather to avoid flash flood danger.
• Like many canyon ecosystems, Coyote Gulch requires attention to navigation to avoid accidentally venturing into side canyons.

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Coyote Gulch access lies down Hole-in-the-Rock Road, which is washboarded with possible washouts.
• Permits are required for Coyote Gulch in addition to several canyon-specific regulations. Though permits are currently free and either self-filled-out at the trailheads or picked up at the Escalante Interagency Visitor Center, keep an eye on the latest regulations involving trips in Coyote Gulch. 
• Some route variations require a shuttle between trailheads.
• You have numerous choices on how to approach Coyote Gulch.

Season: Spring / Fall

Elevation Gain: 1,000-2,000 feet

Max Elevation: 4,100 feet

Hiking Coyote Gulch

Coyote Gulch is a tributary canyon of the Escalante River in South-Central Utah running for slightly over 20 miles from the top (near Dry Fork) to the bottom where it meets the Canyon of the Escalante River. Several access points provide a choose-your-own-adventure experience depending on the mileage and challenge you’re looking for. The routes through Coyote Gulch described below travel through some of the finest canyon country ecosystems in Southern Utah, lush with vegetation and wildlife, natural bridges and arches, waterfalls, and cultural sites. These areas necessitate respect in traveling through commensurate with the awe Coyote Gulch views elicit given the fragile resources present.

This guide describes multiple routes to explore Coyote Gulch. Trailheads can be used to access Coyote Gulch as an out-and-back hike or using a shuttle. The longest possible variation would be doing an out-and-back hike from the Dry Fork Trailhead, which would total over 45-miles. The shortest way to access all the most notable features of the canyon is the technical Crack-in-the-Wall to Sneak Route Loop. Trailhead access points and route options are discussed below but Coyote Gulch’s access points and the larger area provide myriad opportunities to find the route that fits what you’re looking for. This guide is not exhaustive on the possible ways to link these access points. Desire to suffer, water levels, or possession of a packraft are all factors that might determine your trip in Coyote Gulch. The author has personally hiked the Crack-in-the-Wall to Sneak Route Loop (both directions, multiple times), the Dry Fork to Crack-in-the-Wall route, the Red Well to Crack-in-the-Wall route, and Hurricane Wash (on its own, out-and-back).

Main Canyon

The lower canyon, beginning near the confluence of Coyote Gulch and Hurricane Wash, involves mixed hiking through sand and the almost constantly flowing main branch of Coyote Gulch, which carved this oasis 900 feet into the sandstone layers above on its course toward the Escalante River. This mixed hiking descends farther into the canyon as the soaring heights of the walls above grow until you reach Jacob Hamblin Arch. The arch is massive and forms a large amphitheater on a bend in the canyon with several large campsites nearby. From there, you can scramble up the loose talus slopes underneath the arch or follow flowing water around the bend to continue down-canyon. The next feature you come across is Coyote Natural Bridge, which forms a massive doorway in the sandstone. Descending farther leads you through more sand, water, and jungles of tamarisk, Gambel’s oak, cottonwoods, willows, horsetail, and other riparian vegetation. 

As you near the Escalante River, Coyote Gulch snakes through large canyon-bottom boulder fields as the waterway cascades toward its terminus. Picturesque waterfalls and sweeping walls above beckon hikers to take their time through this section. This section is where it’s most visible that Coyote Gulch is a dynamic system. Shifting boulders may necessitate Class 3 scrambling to navigate around features. 

Near the bottom of Coyote Gulch, the waterway deepens, and reaching the river beyond requires the most permanent scramble of the primary canyon after the canyon-right turnoff to climb out via Crack-in-the-Wall (described below). The final scramble to the river is fairly obvious and traverses the rock face on canyon-right heading down-canyon. Reaching the river provides the reward of entering the larger Canyon of the Escalante and gazing up at Stevens Arch, one of the largest natural arches in the world. 

Dry Fork

At ~25-miles, Dry Fork to Crack-in-the-Wall is the longest route (not involving an out-and-back) to explore Coyote Gulch and starts at the Dry Fork Trailhead (the BLM recently installed an Upper Dry Fork Trailhead too, complete with a parking area and pit toilets; either can access Coyote Gulch). These trailheads lie approximately 25 miles down Hole-in-the-Rock Road. If you have additional time, the Dry Fork area is popular due to its access to several short slot canyons, including Peekaboo, Spooky, and Brimstone Canyons. Depending on how you access Coyote Gulch from the trailhead(s), you pass directly by the entrances to these side destinations. More information about the slot canyons can be found on the Bureau of Land Management’s website for the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. 

Beyond the slot canyon access, the Dry Fork trail continues into Coyote Gulch. It is aptly named as this part of the route is exposed hiking through deep sand. There is no water in the Dry Fork of Coyote Gulch (reliable water only becomes available after the confluence with Hurricane Wash) and this route is recommended if the goal is only to increase the mileage of your overall trip. Given its relative lack of scenery and length (compared to other routes described), the Dry Fork route remains an unpopular way to access Coyote Gulch. 

Red Well

The Red Well Trailhead sits approximately 30 miles down Hole-in-the-Rock Road in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument and provides access to Coyote Gulch after crossing the boundary into the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area (more information about land designations can be found below). Red Well is a much quicker way to access the main canyon than the previous route and is similar to Hurricane Wash in terrain and mileage. Reliable water becomes more available after the confluence with Hurricane Wash. The Red Well route is roughly 17 miles if exiting at Crack-in-the-Wall.

Hurricane Wash

Hurricane Wash is accessed from a large parking area directly on Hole-in-the-Rock Road in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument 3 miles beyond the turnoff to Red Well. This route is roughly 16 miles if exiting at Crack-in-the-Wall. Reliable water is not available until you enter the main canyon of Coyote Gulch ~5.5 miles from the trailhead. 

Crack-in-the-Wall to Sneak Route Loop

This ~10.5-mile loop from the Crack-in-the-Wall Trailhead along the 40-Mile Ridge spur road is increasing in popularity, though it requires technical consideration for navigating out of the canyon. This route begins at the trailhead and travels across the plateau above Coyote Gulch to Crack-in-the-Wall, a feature above the canyon near where it meets the Escalante River. The route to the canyon edge is well-defined and travels through deep sand. After reaching the Crack-in-the-Wall, scramble down the feature (a narrow fissure in the rock face) to the top of a large sand dune above the canyon. Navigating this feature may necessitate using a rope to lower packs as it is quite narrow and requires Class 3 scrambling. Beyond Crack-in-the-Wall, descend the 700-foot sand dune to Coyote Gulch. 

You enter the canyon near where it meets the Escalante River. From here, tag the river (requires more scrambling, described above) or continue up-canyon toward Jacob Hamblin Arch. Just before reaching the arch (canyon left, traveling up-canyon), you’ll be walking on a bench above the water and the Sneak Route will present itself. The Sneak Route involves a 45-degree friction climb out of the canyon, which may necessitate placing gear (most commonly a rope to act as a handline) as a fall on this Class 4 terrain could lead to a tumble down the sandstone grade back toward the canyon. Those unfamiliar with sandstone friction climbing might prefer to do this route in reverse to make placing a rope more straightforward and descending the Sneak Route rather than ascending it. For those comfortable with this kind of terrain and not placing a rope, it is much easier to climb up the Sneak Route than down. The National Park Service emphasizes that it does not maintain a rope on the Sneak Route and periodically removes them if left by Coyote Gulch hikers. After coming out of Coyote Gulch, you can navigate across the well-cairned plateau to the Water Tank Trailhead (and walk the road back to the Crack-in-the-Wall Trailhead) or cut across directly to the latter via a less-defined cut-off trail.

Getting to Coyote Gulch

Nearest City: Salt Lake City, Utah (359 miles from the Crack-in-the-Wall Trailhead via I-15).

Nearest Town: Escalante, Utah (~40 miles from the Crack-in-the-Wall Trailhead). 

From Salt Lake City, it’s 359 miles to the Crack-in-the-Wall Trailhead via I-15 (7-8 hour drive). This route takes you directly past Bryce Canyon National Park and travels through the town of Escalante. Hole-in-the-Rock Road provides all-access to Coyote Gulch and begins 6 miles east of Escalante along Highway 12. Take note of Escalante Outfitters (https://www.escalanteoutfitters.com) while you pass through town as they make arguably the best pizza in Utah and is a worthy stop after any trip down Hole-in-the-Rock Road. 

Google Maps Link for Coyote Gulch: https://goo.gl/maps/Q5Y2wdmvScsVmhtUA

Trailhead and notable location coordinates (note some trailheads have multiple names on various internet resources and are compiled here):

Upper Dry Fork Trailhead: 37.47902, -111.24152

Red Well Trailhead: 37.42873, -111.14847

Hurricane Wash Trailhead: 37.38254, -111.13310

Water Tank/Jacob Hamblin Arch/Sneak Route Trailhead: 37.39341, -111.04663

Crack-in-the-Wall/40-Mile Ridge Trailhead: 37.40456, -111.00580

Crack-in-the-Wall: 37.41920, -110.98513

Sneak Route: 37.42004, -111.04170

When to Hike Coyote Gulch

Coyote Gulch is best hiked in spring (March-May) and fall (September-November). These seasons allow for mild temperatures (highs often in the 70s-80s) with cool evenings typical of the Colorado Plateau. Hiking in summer requires dealing with extreme heat and winter brings the possibility of snow and subfreezing temperatures. Mosquitos may be present in riparian areas of the Colorado Plateau as late as May.

Coyote Gulch Terrain

Coyote Gulch is a riparian ecosystem full of wildlife (from deer to frogs) and vegetation and contains waterfalls and natural arches and bridges. It is a deep, wide canyon in most places but narrows at some points (into an amphitheater near Jacob Hamblin Arch and a boulder field near the Escalante River). Accessing Coyote Gulch from Dry Fork, Red Well, or Hurricane Wash necessitates navigating more exposed dry canyons to access the more lush lower canyon. Expect constant sand and wet feet in many places. Exiting (or entering) the canyon via Crack-in-the-Wall requires navigating a tight, scrambly feature and a 700-foot sandy incline, and exiting (or entering) via the Sneak Route requires a 45-degree friction climb and may necessitate placing a rope for those unfamiliar with the terrain. 

Logistics: Direction, Land Management, Water

Permits: Backpacking in Coyote Gulch currently requires a self-serve permit filled out at the trailhead(s) or picked up at the Escalante Interagency Visitor Center, which aids the National Park Service in managing recreation in the area. Make sure you check the National Park Service website for the latest information regarding Coyote Gulch regulations.

Land Designations: Coyote Gulch mostly lies within the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area and is managed by the National Park Service. Trailheads including Dry Fork, Red Well, Hurricane Wash, and Water Tank technically lie in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, which is managed by the Bureau of Land Management, but the National Park Service sets the regulations for hiking in Coyote Gulch. It is managed as wilderness (https://wilderness.net/learn-about-wilderness/default.php). There are currently no restrictions on campsite selection beyond camping away from water. Considering how human noise travels in the canyons is good practice in site selection. Large, defined campsites are frequent and camping in these well-used areas mitigates further resource impacts from creating new sites.

Water: Water is plentiful in lower Coyote Canyon which follows flowing water to the Escalante River. Reliable water can be found most anywhere down-canyon of the confluence with Hurricane Wash. Do not expect water in other parts of possible routes, though it may be found after rain in perennial streams (like Hurricane Wash) or in potholes and tenajas. All water must be treated given the popularity of the area for recreation and cattle-grazing. 

Human Waste: the National Park Service requires all human waste and toilet paper to be packed out of Coyote Gulch using a portable waste containment bag (or Wag Bag). These are widely available at most outfitters in Utah, including in the town of Escalante. This regulation exists because of concerns over human waste proliferation and water quality in Coyote Gulch. A pit toilet exists in Coyote Gulch (on canyon-left, down-canyon from Cliff Arch) for recreational use. A second pit toilet is present on many maps and internet sources near Jacob Hamblin Arch, but this toilet is no longer present. Pit toilets are present at the Dry Fork Trailheads and beyond the turn to 40-Mile Ridge Road at Dance Hall Rock. No pit toilets are present at the Water Tank, Crack-in-the-Wall, Red Well, or Hurricane Wash Trailheads.

Campfires: Campfires are not allowed in Coyote Gulch given the lack of available firewood.

Dogs: Dogs are not allowed in Coyote Gulch.

Cultural Sites: Coyote Gulch used to be inhabited by the Ancestral Puebloans and contains remnants of that habitation, including dwellings and rock art. These are nonrenewable resources and need to be treated with the utmost respect and reverence. 

Special Gear: Waste containment bags are essential if traveling overnight in order to pack out human waste. A rope may be desired to aid in navigating the Sneak Route or to lower packs at Crack-in-the-Wall. Breathable shoes (like trail running shoes) are likely the best bet for Coyote Gulch as much of the route travels through water and deep sand (a great combo). If temperatures are high during your trip, parts of the route (like Dry Fork or the plateau sections between the edge of the canyon and the Water Tank or Crack-in-the-Wall trailheads) might warrant a sun umbrella and attention to electrolytes, especially if you are traveling from a non-desert climate. 

Other Considerations: Coyote Gulch is seeing increasing popularity and attention by the internet, outdoor recreation community, and for management by the National Park Service. This necessitates cooperation, especially in areas like the Sneak Route and Crack-in-the-Wall, where multiple parties may be taking their time to carefully navigate features; or around Jacob Hamblin Arch, where camping is most popular and where noise travels very easily. Coyote Gulch is a serene place and is managed for qualities like solitude by the National Park Service. We need to work together to be considerate of one another while recreating in this place which, along with all U.S. public land, is owned collectively by all Americans and deeply meaningful to many.

Know Before You Go

Coyote Gulch has specific regulations regarding permits, human waste, campfires, and dogs. Make sure you are in the know on the latest regulations from the National Park Service before beginning your trip. Be aware of the technical aspects involved in some route options (especially the Sneak Route to Jacob Hamblin Arch) and take the appropriate precautions. 

As with any hike in canyon country, keep the weather in mind as flash floods are frequent in these ecosystems during rain events. The weather may also prevent access to Coyote Gulch as Hole-in-the-Rock Road is challenging even in dry conditions from frequent washboarding and washouts. Sedans can access some locations on Hole-in-the-Rock Road (Dry Fork and Hurricane Wash are usually good bets) but other locations like the Red Well, Water Tank, and Crack-in-the-Wall Trailheads require navigating things like washed-out cattle guards, washed out sections of road, and deep sand. A high-clearance all-wheel-drive vehicle is highly recommended for traveling to these locations. 

Hole-in-the-Rock Road is an ordeal to travel down and takes time. Do further research on the area. The vast Escalante District of the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area and the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument contain lifetimes of outdoor opportunity. A trip down the road to backpack Coyote Gulch can easily be combined with some car camping and a sense of adventure to visit destinations like Reflection Canyon or the road’s namesake, Hole-in-the-Rock.

Additional Resources

National Park Service Website: https://www.nps.gov/glca/planyourvisit/coyote-gulch.htm

Caleb Meyer (he/him) is a hiker and conservation social science researcher based in Utah. In addition to countless hikes, backpacking trips, and other generous times in the outdoors, Caleb hiked the Pacific Crest Trail in 2019 and the Colorado Trail in 2021. Outside of long-distance hiking, Caleb spends his time running, skiing, and working in public land management. Follow along on Instagram: @topohikes.

The post Coyote Gulch appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

Region: Southwest (Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Utah)

Distance: 15 miles (2 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Lightly defined trail can be hard to follow
• Difficult descent to Escalante River
• Slickrock can be tough to navigate

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Water roughly halfway
• Point-to-point route
• Great camping options

Season: Spring / Fall

Elevation Gain: 3,000 feet

Max Elevation: 6,805 feet

Hiking The Boulder Mail Trail

The Boulder Mail Trail is a historic route rooted in delivering the mail across the unforgiving terrain of southern Utah. An old telegraph line still runs most of the way from Boulder to Escalante and the Boulder Mail Trail parallels its path. The point-to-point hike is one of the most diverse in the area, while also being extremely accessible. The slickrock, striking canyons, and high plateaus that make up Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument are all present on this 15-mile route.

This backpacking route is comprised of three different segments. The northeast third of the trail is on a high plateau and undulating terrain that is smooth but can get muddy after snow or rain. It is a slow descent from 6,800 feet to the edge of Death Hollow Canyon and the start of the second segment. This first third has the smoothest, most well-defined, and easiest miles of the route. It is a warmup for a tough descent into one of the most unique canyons I have ever hiked through.

The second segment of the Boulder Mail Trail is the canyon. This is the highlight of the trip but also the most difficult. The route down is precarious and steep. Cairns mark the route, but it is still difficult to wind down the slickrock and to the creek below. It is a slow drop to the bottom and accentuated by a refreshing crossing of the cold, deep creek. This is the best camping and water for the route, so I recommend filling up in Death Hollow Creek and even camping there. The route follows the creek for a few miles and joins a part of the Death Hollow Loop when it finally climbs out of the deep canyon. This turn can be hard to find, so be cognizant and I recommend having a GPS track to ensure you climb out at the right spot. The climb out of the canyon is very similar to the drop into it. The slickrock has no trail and the elevation gain can be punishing. Follow the cairns.

Segment three begins with a long climb out of the canyon and crosses the signature expansive terrain of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. The route can be hard to follow at times, marked only by small cairns, and the surface ranges from soft sand to hard rock. But it is beautiful. The escape into nature is obvious and this lesser-traveled route offers ample spots to dry camp or simply take in the surrounding views in this third segment.

The 15-mile route ends with a climb over one last ridgeline and a drop to the outskirts of Escalante, Utah. The southwest corner is also the only place that backpackers should expect any cell service, and even here I found it faint. This route is about getting into the heart of Grand Staircase-Escalante; you can show everyone on social media later!

When to Hike The Boulder Mail Trail

The Boulder Mail Trail is best hiked in the spring and the fall, although I was able to travel the entire route in February. There was snow in February and the creek was especially cold, but there was a special kind of beauty with the surrounding mountains cloaked in white. Summer can be very hot on the exposed rock sections, but it is also doable with the right water capacity, knowledge, and preparation. I recommend hiking it in the shoulder seasons.

It is a point-to-point trail, so sorting out the logistics on how to get back to the car at one end is something to consider. Luckily the road from one trailhead to the other is straightforward and most cars will be traveling all the way through if hitching is a consideration. Also, I have done this trail as an out and back for 30 miles of enjoyment and also ended up back at my vehicle.

Boulder Mail Trail Terrain

The terrain is classic high desert. There are open, exposed bedrock (slickrock) sections, small shrubs, plants with stickers, and sand. It is a classic Utah route and has all the characteristics of many of the similar routes in the dry, arid state. I consumed more water than I expected and it is likely due to the subtle accumulation of elevation and the lack of moisture in the air.

Your feet will get wet. There really is no way to avoid having to wade through the deep, soft, flowing waters of Death Hollow Creek. It is not a scary crossing, but a mid-thigh saunter through the water. If backpacking, this is the perfect opportunity to bring camp shoes or Crocs and save your shoes and socks from getting soaked through.

Logistics: Direction, Land Management, Water

Land Management: This trail is in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, which means the regulations are much more lax than a national park. There is a ranger station in Escalante, Utah, where a free permit can be obtained. If the ranger station is closed, each trailhead has a register to simply mark when you start and when you will be finished.

Water: The only water on the Boulder Mail Trail is Death Hollow Creek. You cannot miss it as you will have to wade through the water, but I would recommend camping here and also topping off your water before the long climb out of the canyon.

Remoteness: There is very little connectivity on the Boulder Mail Trail. The only semblance of cell service that I had was the last couple of miles when I was exiting on the Escalante side. Be prepared to be fully contained and self-sufficient on your hike.

Permits: There are walk-up permits at the Escalante ranger station.

Poison Ivy: The route is known to have some poison ivy on the Death Hollow Creek portion. I have not had an issue with it, but former hiking partners have.

Additional Resources

Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument

NPS Escalante Website

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Region: Deep South

Distance: 30 miles (2-4 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• 7,000 feet of total elevation gain SOBO; 8,200 feet NOBO
• Rocky and rooty terrain
• Steep sections and seasonal water sources

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate 

• Route is poorly marked in Shining Rock Wilderness
• Infrequent water sources, depending on the season
• Easily accessible trailheads

Season: Spring/Summer/Fall/Winter

Elevation Gain: 7,000 feet SOBO / 8,200 feet NOBO

Hiking the Art Loeb Trail

The Art Loeb Trail is a difficult point-to-point route in the Pisgah National Forest that takes hikers through a variety of terrain across the Blue Ridge Mountains. As is typical with hiking the Southern Appalachians, there are steep ascents and descents, offering spectacular views at the top but tough on the knees going down. We chose to hike this trail north-to-south as it was both logistically and physically easier than the alternative. 

The northernmost quarter of the trail, heading south, is a steady climb up toward Cold Mountain through the heavily wooded forest of the Shining Rock Wilderness. A spur trail can take you to the top of Cold Mountain if you wish to further explore the namesake of the popular book and movie. Continuing on the ALT, you will pass through The Narrows, a single-track, rhododendron-lined section of ridge walking that offers gorgeous overlooks. Exiting The Narrows, the trail widens and you enter Shining Rock Ledge, an area scattered with quartzite ranging from pebble-sized rocks underfoot to small boulders resting among the trees. At mile 6.8 is Shining Rock Gap and a junction with Old Butt Knob Trail, which you can take to see the actual Shining Rock itself. Near the end of this section, you’ll pass two water sources near each other, which are the last opportunity to get water if you plan on camping before Black Balsam. 

Continuing on, you’ll reach Flower Gap in less than half a mile, the first spot of near-continuous views for several miles. There are some campsites in this area that looked great but were all taken by the time we got there. We continued toward Ivestor Gap, an open, grassy gap with views on each side, where we set up camp for the night. Both the sunrise and sunset were absolutely incredible from this location. I highly recommend camping here. If you do want to keep moving down the trail, there are some sporadic campsites between here and Black Balsam that also offer stellar views.

After packing up the next morning at Ivestor Gap, we continued south along the ridge and summited Tennent Mountain, which has jaw-dropping 360-degree views of many well-known mountaintops in the region, including Clingmans Dome far off in the distance. The hike from Tennent Mountain to Black Balsam Knob is definitely one of my all-time favorite hiking experiences! I cannot stress this enough. An abundance of blueberry and blackberry bushes line the trail, offering a good opportunity for a morning snack, and the continuous views impress for miles. The berry bushes do entice bears to the area and there was evidence of their presence, though no bears were spotted during our hike. You will pass a water source in this area–the last one until Deep Gap Shelter about six miles ahead.

Ascending Black Balsam Knob we inadvertently took the Black Balsam Trail instead of the ALT, but after talking to a few people I learned that this is a common mistake that actually provides a better viewing experience than following the Art Loeb Trail to the top. We hung around Black Balsam for a bit and took in the scenery while trying to identify the mountains we spotted in the distance. If you reach Black Balsam after 8 in the morning on a weekend, expect it to be somewhat crowded. As you descend Black Balsam, after you descend the wooden stairs, veer right at the Mountains-to-Sea Trail junction to cross USFS 816 to stay on the Art Loeb Trail. A steep descent to the Blue Ridge Parkway provides some additional views and a chance to escape the crowds.

The southern half of the trail has a very different vibe than the sections before Black Balsam. The trail is rocky and rooty and the ascents and descents are steep, but peaks such as the one on Pilot Mountain offer magnificent views of the Blue Ridge Mountains at the top. In early September, we only came across three water sources between the spring past Tennent Mountain and the southern terminus at the Davidson River. The first of the two sources you’ll come across if doing a SOBO hike is just south of Deep Gap Shelter, along an old logging road. The second source is next to Butter Gap Shelter and the third is about a mile down the trail from there. After Butter Gap, there are many small climbs mixed with some smooth ridge running and old logging roads before reaching the final descent toward the southern terminus, where you’ll find a river to dip in to celebrate your completed thru-hike if the season’s right!

How to Get to the Art Loeb Trail

Nearest City: Brevard, North Carolina (42 miles from Camp Daniel Boone/northern terminus; 5 miles from Davidson River Campground/southern terminus)

Camp Daniel Boone / northern terminus (Google Map)

Davidson River Campground / southern terminus (Google Map)

No parking is allowed at the northern terminus at Camp Daniel Boone. We left our car at the southern terminus and had a friend drive us to the northern trailhead.

There are shuttles in the area that are a good option if you only have one car or are flying to the area and need a ride. If driving and you only have one car, depending on the direction you’re hiking, the shuttle could drive you to Camp Daniel Boone to begin a SOBO hike or pick you up there at the end if you’re hiking NOBO.

If you’re flying to North Carolina, your best bet is probably to fly into the Asheville airport (AVL) and take a shuttle to and from the trail. This airport is 22 minutes from the Davidson River Campground and 52 minutes from Camp Daniel Boone.

When to Hike the Art Loeb Trail

The ideal seasons for hiking the Art Loeb Trail are late spring, summer, and early fall. However, this hike could be easily managed in any season, including winter, with a reasonable amount of preparedness.

We hiked the trail over Labor Day weekend; the temperature was in the 70s during the day but varied a bit depending on the elevation. We camped at 5,700 feet elevation the first night and the low temperature was in the 30s, but conditions were warmer–50 degrees–the second night when we dropped to 3,200 feet. Mosquitoes weren’t as much of an issue as expected, but the water was scarce. Any season outside of the summer months would likely offer more abundant water sources.

Fall is a gorgeous time of year in North Carolina as the trees are changing colors, making October a perfect time to hike this trail. Keep in mind that temperatures may have already dropped below freezing at higher elevations by this point in the year.

If you are considering a winter hike of the Art Loeb Trail, be aware that it is not uncommon for the Blue Ridge Parkway to be closed during winter months when there are ice storms or periods of freezing weather.

2 night/3 day SOBO itinerary
Day 1: Camp Daniel Boone to Ivestor Gap (9 miles)
Day 2: Ivestor Gap to Butter Gap Shelter (13 miles)
Day 3: Butter Gap Shelter to Davidson River Campground (8 miles)

3 night/4 day NOBO itinerary
Day 1: Davidson River Campground to Butter Gap Shelter (8.5 miles)
Day 2: Butter Gap Shelter to Deep Gap Shelter (6 miles)
Day 3: Deep Gap Shelter to Flower Gap (8 miles)
Day 4: Flower Gap to Camp Daniel Boone (7 miles)

Art Loeb Trail Terrain

The Art Loeb Trail takes hikers over peaks and ridges, through forests and across balds as they cross some of the best-known mountains in North Carolina. The section from Flower Gap to Black Balsam Knob is exposed to the elements, so keep an eye on the weather forecast. Much of the southern half of the trail is heavy with rocks and roots, making the steep descents challenging and somewhat dangerous. Other sections are relatively smooth underfoot.

In September 2021, we had to traverse a landslide in the Shining Rock Wilderness, one of the most challenging obstacles we encountered on the trail.

Logistics: Direction, Land Management, Water

Art Loeb Trail Resupply Strategy  

Since this trail is only 30 miles and can be hiked in 2-4 days, it’s possible to complete the hike without needing a resupply. If a resupply is required, you would need a hitch or shuttle into Brevard, which could be up to an hour away or as close as 15 minutes, depending on your point along the trail.

Logistics 

Camping: Camping is free and first-come, first-served on the ALT. Many campsites lie along the trail, providing plenty of options for setting up camp. However, the lack of water sources limits your options if you wish to camp near water.

Permits: No permits are needed to hike or camp along this trail 

*Water: Water sources are plentiful between Camp Daniel Boone and Flower Gap. From SOBO mile 10 (just past Tennent Mountain) to the southern terminus at Davidson River Campground, water sources are sparse. In early September, there were only three water sources on the southern half of the trail (SOBO): one at Deep Gap Shelter (mile 15), one at Butter Gap Shelter (mile 21), and the third about one mile south of Butter Gap (mile 22).

Route Finding: A GPS map or map and compass are recommended. The trail is not marked in the Shining Rock Wilderness on the northern end of the trail or through Black Balsam. The trail runs along the ridge in these areas, so if you’re ever unsure stay along the ridgeline.

Special Gear: Bear canister required if camping in Shining Rock Wilderness.

Know Before You Go

This is a challenging trail with many steep ascents and rocky terrain. I would not recommend it for beginners.

• In the Shining Rock Wilderness, bear canisters are required and fires are not permitted.
• Water can be difficult to come by, especially along the southern half of the trail.
• The trail is not marked in the Shining Rock Wilderness on the northern end of the trail; a GPS map or map and compass are recommended.
• This trail is popular with day-hikers, especially on weekends.

Who was Art Loeb?: Yale grad, conservationist, avid hiker, Art Loeb and a hiking partner began piecing together trail sections between Davidson River Campground and Camp Daniel Boone. He died in 1968 at age 54, and the next year the trail was completed and named after him.

Additional Resources

USFS Trailhead Link and Info

National forests in North Carolina – Shining Rock Wilderness (usda.gov)
Shuttles

https://pvadventures.com/art-loeb-trail-shuttle/ https://wnctrailshuttle.com/art-loeb-trail/

https://mountainhighshuttles.com/

Laura Russell lives in Atlanta and enjoys going on outdoor adventures with her dog, Mallie, around the Southeast and beyond. She loves taking long road trips and has driven over 25,000 miles through 36 states, incorporating hiking into all of her travels. She started backpacking in 2020 and has many trails on the horizon. You can follow her adventures on Instagram @laura.russell_ 

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Region: Pacific West (Death Valley National Park, California)

Distance: 30 miles (2-3 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Dry and exposed terrain
• Difficult to navigate through the terrain and across numerous game trails
• Water is very sparse and difficult to find; little info on current water conditions

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate 

• No resupplies to worry about
• Defined water stops
• Few alternates to make wrong turns within the canyons

Season: Winter

Elevation Gain: 7,200 feet

Max Elevation: 3,691 feet

This is the rough route for the loop, but with the difficulty, we want to encourage you to further plan and note where each water source is, the logistics of reaching it, and become familiar with the turns and nuances of the terrain that can all be seen on a topographic map.

Other important GPS points:

Hiking the Death Valley Four Springs Loop

The Death Valley Four Springs Loop is one of the most difficult routes on our website. Don’t be fooled by the shorter distance and the wide-open terrain. There is no defined trail, and only a series of large canyons to hike through connecting four springs in the foothills of Death Valley. This route is in the southern and more rugged section of the national park, where it is rare to see even another car on the road.

The water on the route is the most tedious, difficult, and unknown aspect. The springs are often little more than seeps and trampled through by the wildlife. During my time in Death Valley, I saw wild horses, jackrabbits, burros (donkeys), and goats. On this route, I saw 20 wild burros.

As the name would suggest, the Four Springs Loop links four springs. While knowing their reliability completely depends on the conditions, I was able to scoop water out of each of them in February. In the clockwise direction, the springs are in the following order: Lost Spring, Squaw Spring, Willow Spring, and Mesquite Spring. These springs are the backbone of the route. Squaw Spring proved to only be a muddy pit, but the other three had enough water to easily scoop out with a bottle.

The route starts off on Warm Springs Canyon Road at a small, rugged intersection with ample room to park (location here). It initially follows an old road and drops down into the start of Lost Spring Canyon. There is a junction where two canyons split and this is where the loop completes itself. So the choice is either to hike clockwise or counterclockwise. Since I traveled the loop clockwise, that is the direction this will follow. The canyon on the left is Lost Spring Canyon and it is fairly simple to navigate through the soft dirt. The footing isn’t great and there are a couple of places where the walls narrow, but as long as you stay within the canyon, it should lead up to Lost Spring.

Beyond Lost Spring the canyon narrows further and becomes more difficult to climb through with a backpack. But there are plenty of burro trails to follow to avoid the thick brush. As the route continues to climb, it becomes exceedingly easy to take a wrong turn, especially as you approach the pass. Over the pass, the route drops into Anvil Spring Canyon and follows it all the way up to Squaw Spring. The spring is on the side of a large hill with lots of vegetation, but I did not find the spring to be flowing very well.

From Squaw Spring there are defined burro trails that lead north and slowly swing more to the west. There are signs of use as the route nears Willow Spring. A spur off Warm Springs Canyon Road leads to Willow Spring and a firepit can be found at the spot. At this point in the route, the trip can be extended further west to Anvil Spring, and even up to Striped Butte. But if this is as far as you are hiking, head back through Anvil Spring Canyon toward Squaw Spring, but instead of heading south to the spring, veer north into another larger and flatter wash.

The wash will slowly grow more narrow until the walls are quite steep. Shortly after you will reach Mesquite Spring. Steep canyon walls continue all the way through until it opens back up again at the junction that previously took you farther south at the beginning of the route. Retrace the steps through the wide canyon and back to the old road and to your parked car.

How to Get to the Death Valley Four Springs Loop

Nearest City: Las Vegas, Nevada (131 miles)

The trail begins off Warm Springs Canyon Road in Death Valley National Park. This is where I parked my car to do the loop (link here). It is a long drive from any established cities or even gas stations, so be prepared to be remote. But, while you are in the remote corner of the park, it is worth checking out Warm Springs Camp.

Instead of driving up and through Death Valley Junction and the more developed portions of the park, it is much faster to drive into the park through Shoshone and into the southeast corner of the national park. At Ashford, Junction follows Warm Springs Road leading off to your left and then to the GPS coordinate. There is little to no cell service in the area, so bear in mind that all directions should be downloaded before entering Death Valley National Park.

When to Hike the Death Valley Four Springs Loop

Water is the main constraint in Death Valley. It is one of the driest places and the water that is in the desert is often saline and undrinkable. The little amount of water combined with the heat makes this a perfect winter backpacking trip. The temperatures remain cooler and the chances of still-flowing springs are much higher.

Death Valley National Park Four Springs Loop Terrain

The terrain is very dry and rugged. The washes are uneven, loose, soft, and taxing to navigate through. The miles in Death Valley National Park are much more difficult than trail miles simply because of the continual attention required and the taxing terrain.

Logistics: Direction, Land Management, Water

Loop Direction: I traveled this loop in a clockwise direction and it seemed to work well with the reliability of the springs and camping. It did take a scoop in order to use Squaw Spring, but in a clockwise direction, the first half of the trail is more difficult than the second half. But the route can be done successfully in either direction.

Land Management: Death Valley National Park manages the entire area. To backpack, users should issue themselves a free voluntary permit either online or at one of the two ranger stations.

Know Before You Go

Water Capacity: One of the biggest causes for concern on this loop is water, water capacity, and successfully treating the water that is out there. With water so sparse in most of Death Valley, the water sources are very busy with wildlife and often are not clean. This route is designed to link a series of water sources throughout the canyons in the foothills of the national park, and many burros were standing right in the middle of the sources as I came upon them. I carried three liters for doing the loop as an overnight, but if you are planning to be out there longer, I would recommend carrying more capacity.

Remoteness: The route is far from any major visitors centers and has no cell service. It is important to be prepared and consider taking a personal locator, GPS unit, or some type of messenger with the challenges that this route presents.

Additional Resources

Death Valley National Park Website

Death Valley National Park Maps

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