Region: Mid-Atlantic (Adirondack Park, New York)

Length: 30 miles (2 to 3 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• The elevation gain is 3,418 feet over ~30 miles. The trail loops around the Seward Mountains, ascending and descending low ridges. There are no significant climbs.
• Mostly soft dirt trails, with several sections along old logging roads.
• The trail is wet and muddy, with wet crossings of a meadow that can flood during high water, Calkins Brook, and the Cold River if the river is low enough.

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

• Loop trail done in 2-3 days so resupply not needed.
• Plentiful water.
• Shelters well spaced.

Season: Spring, summer, fall.

Net Elevation Gain: 3,418 feet

How to Get to the Cold River Loop

The trail starts at the Seward Trailhead. The closest towns are Saranac Lake and Tupper Lake. Coreys Road leads from Route 3 (between the two towns) to Ampersand Road and the Seward Trailhead.

Coreys is a small settlement of year-round and seasonal houses with no stores or gas stations.

About the Cold River Loop

The Cold River Loop combines the Calkins Brook Truck Trail, the Northville-Placid Trail, and the Ward Brook Truck Trail for a ~30-mile loop around the Seward Mountains.

The trail is not well-maintained, and blowdowns block the trail throughout the loop. Some sections are heavily overgrown, especially the short, unnamed trail between the Calkins Brook trail and Cold River shelters 3 and 4 on the NPT.

This is also a very wet hike, so water shoes are a good idea.

When to Hike the Cold River Loop

Spring: Snow can linger, bugs can be bothersome, and spring rains can make a wet trail even wetter.

Summer: Buggy, wet, and sometimes uncomfortably hot and humid. But the sweet spot of summer hiking is swimming in the Cold River.

Fall: Leaves begin to change color, the bugs are mostly gone, and the temperature can be cool and comfortable.

Hiking the Cold River Loop

The centerpiece of the Cold River Loop is the Cold River, with four shelters that provide stunning views of the river and nights falling asleep to the music of the rushing water.

The loop follows the Northville-Placid Trail (NPT) for roughly 10 miles, about half of those along the river, through what is considered the most remote section of the 136-mile NPT.

Trail access is from the Seward Trailhead, a few dirt road miles from the small settlement of Coreys, NY. Trailhead parking can be at a premium on weekends and holidays as it is a popular launching spot for 46ers climbing the 4,000-plus-foot peaks of the Seward Mountains.

I hiked the loop counterclockwise, taking the Calkins Brook Truck Trail (10.6 miles) to the NPT at Shattuck Clearing, the NPT (10.4 miles) to the Ward Brook Truck Trail, and the Ward Brook Truck Trail (8.7 miles) to my car. I stayed at Cold River shelter No. 3 overlooking the river; Cold River shelter No. 4, a short walk downriver, also has a superb view of the river.

The hike from the parking lot follows an unnamed trail for 1.2 miles to the Calkins Brook and Ward Brook truck trails. I turned right at the trail junction onto the Calkins Brook trail and the going was easy along an old logging road for 6.5 miles to the Calkins Brook shelter.

Shortly after the shelter the trail crosses Calkins Brook, a dry crossing in low water and a wet one in high water. This was my first wet shoes water crossing. The trail becomes overgrown after this, almost disappearing in sections. Shortly before reaching the Cold River a marked side trail leads to Latham Pond, with a view of the Sewards.

The Calkins Brook trail ends at the Cold River, with two options for reaching Cold River shelters 3 and 4. If you take a left at the river, you’ll follow a trail that disappears among thick overgrowth and a beaver pond, eventually emerging from the overgrowth behind Cold River shelter 4. I could clearly see the trail from both ends, but lost it in the middle.

To the right is an easy path to the horse trail crossing at Shattuck Clearing, where there is a marked tent site. I found a shallow crossing downriver (my second wet shoes crossing of the day), and reconnected with the horse trail for a short uphill walk to the NPT. It’s important to note that crossing the Cold River is possible only during low water.

The NPT winds through the woods for about a mile, crossing two suspension bridges before reaching Cold River shelters 3 and 4. Both shelters have fire pits, a privy, and adjacent tent sites.

The next day I continued on the NPT, following the trail uphill from the shelters and along the river.

Once again the trail followed an old logging road, and the hiking along the river was easy to Seward and Ouluska shelters. The Seward shelter is a popular spot for swimming at Millers Falls, but the day I stopped was cold and threatening rain so I did not swim.

After the Ouluska shelter the trail heads uphill away from the river, leaving behind the flat, easy walking, and soon reaches a spot where Noah John Rondeau, the Hermit of Cold River, lived from roughly 1929 to 1950. The sign marking the location of his long-gone hermitage is a must-have picture for loop and NPT hikers.

The trail continues over ridges, climbing and descending before reaching the Ward Brook trail, which bears left at the junction. The NPT continues to Lake Placid, passing Cold River shelters 1 and 2 (.4 miles) and Duck Hole shelters 1 and 2 (1.5 miles).

Soon after the junction the trail crosses a meadow that can be dry, flooded, or something in between. It was flooded when I hiked through, and because my shoes were wet from rain that had been steadily falling for several hours, I waded through the nearly foot-deep water rather than testing the floating saplings intended as a bridge.

After 2.6 miles, steady rain, and many blowdowns, I reached the two Number 4 horse trail shelters , which were empty and in very good shape (dry inside, no roof leaks). A stream flows right behind the shelters, with easy access for filtering water. Shelter from the storm never looked so good.

The trail from the horse shelters to the trailhead (6.1 miles) continues on a flat grade, passing the Ward Brook and Blueberry shelters. Both shelters are popular launching spots for peakbagging the Sewards and because they often fill up are not good destinations for loop hikers.

After the Blueberry shelter the trail is very wet, and large blowdowns block the trail. At this point my shoes were so wet it seemed futile to try to avoid the mud and water.

But the hike went quickly, and I happily changed into clean clothes and dry shoes back at my car.

Suggested Itineraries

Two Days: Counterclockwise on the Calkins Brook Truck Trail to Seward shelter, Seward shelter to the trailhead. Or clockwise on Ward Brook Truck Trail to Ouluska shelter, Ouluska shelter to the trailhead.

Three Days: Ward Brook Truck Trail to Duck Hole, Duck Hole to Cold River shelters 3 and 4, Calkins Brook Truck Trail to the trailhead. Or the reverse: Calkins Brook to shelters 3 and 4, shelters 3 and 4 to Duck Hole, Duck Hole to the trailhead. Duck Hole is not technically on the loop, but it’s a nice side trip to a beautiful location.

The Cold River Loop Terrain

The Calkins Brook and Ward Brook truck trails mostly follow old logging roads, with slight elevation gain and loss. The Northville-Placid Trail is mostly flat from the Cold River shelters to Ouluska shelter, then climbs and descends ridges away from the river.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water

Permits: No permits are needed.

Shelters: Plenty of shelters with tent sites, picnic tables, and privies nicely spaced along the loop: Calkins Brook (2 shelters), Cold River shelters 3 and 4, the Seward and Ouluska shelters, Cold River shelters 1 and 2, the two Number 4 horse trail shelters, and the Ward Brook and Blueberry shelters. I do not recommend staying at the Ward Brook and Blueberry shelters because they get heavy use by 46ers.

Water: Water is plentiful. I carried a liter and filled up at the abundant water sources along the loop.

Route-finding: The three trails that make up the loop are easy to follow, although some sections are very overgrown. The Calkins Brook and Ward Brook trails are sparsely blazed with blue trail markers. The Northville-Placid Trail section has a confusing mix of NPT and two kinds of blue trail markers, also spaced far apart. But trail junctions are clearly marked with signs indicating distances to shelters and connecting trails.

Water Crossings: The Calkins Brook bridge just north of the shelter washed out years ago, and lumber to rebuild it has sat in the woods for years. I waded across the brook when I hiked because the water was too high for dry rock hopping. A meadow on the Ward Brook trail near the junction with the NPT can be dry, covered with water, or something in between. It was filled with water about a foot deep when I hiked, and I waded through it. The trail connecting the Calkins Brook trail to Cold River shelters 3 and 4 is extremely overgrown, and I lost the trail in the area of a beaver marsh. I backtracked and waded across the Cold River at a shallow spot downriver from the Shattuck Clearing horse trail ford, and hiked the horse trail a short distance to the NPT.

Know Before You Go

Solitude: In early September I saw one NPT thru-hiker and two loop hikers, and I was the only hiker at the two shelters I stayed in. About a dozen 46ers signed the trail logbook between the time I began hiking and my return.

Clockwise or Counterclockwise?: I hiked counterclockwise, mainly because I wanted to spend my first night on the river at Cold River shelters 3 and 4. The two loop hikers I met were going clockwise on the Ward Brook trail because they wanted to spend the first night at the Duck Hole shelters. So hiking direction comes down to personal preference.

The Horse Trails: Several horse trails cross and run alongside the loop trails, but they are rarely used and overgrown. Hiking on them is not recommended.

Parking: The Seward Trailhead is the only parking area for the loop, and Google Maps has directions. The trailhead is heavily used by 46ers hiking the Seward Mountain peaks, and often fills up.

Transportation: Driving your own vehicle is the only practical way to get to the trail.

Cell Reception: Random. At various times a text or phone call came through on my cell phone, but there is no consistent cell reception.

Trail Guides: I used the National Geographic Adirondack Parks Lake Placid / High Peaks map because it has the best trail markings, shelter names and locations, and mileages. The Adirondack Mountain Club High Peaks map has smaller print, making it hard to read, and does not name the shelters. The Northville-Lake Placid Chapter of the ADK has a trail book, but I didn’t consult it because only about 10 miles of the loop are on the NPT.

Bear Canisters: The New York Department of Environmental Conservation recommends using bear canisters, but does not require them in the Outer Zone of the High Peaks Wilderness where the Cold River Loop is located.

Peakbagging: Two herd paths marked by cairns leave the Ward Brook trail near the Ward Brook and Blueberry shelters, one climbing a herd path to the peaks of Seward, Donaldson, and Emmons, and another climbing Seymour, all 4,000-footers. A herd path off the Calkins Brook trail is marked by a cairn and old pot, also leading to Seward, Donaldson, and Emmons.

Cold River Loop Resources

Adirondack Mountain Club

Camping regulations: New York Department of Environmental Conservation

Northville-Placid Trail guidebook

Read our account of hiking the Northville-Placid Trail here

Adirondack Park (Lake Placid / High Peaks) map

Adirondack Mountain Club High Peaks map

Weather

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Region: Northeast (Pachaug State Forest, Connecticut)

Length: ~31 miles (3 days)

Physical Difficulty: Easy

• The elevation gain is 2,848 feet, and two sections account for the bulk of the elevation gain: Mount Misery (441 feet) and about 2 miles of steep up and down scrambling through rocky ravines north of Beach Pond.
• Mostly soft dirt trails and forest roads. Some short, paved road walks.
• Water crossings can be tricky after heavy rain, but bridges, some in poor condition, span the deepest crossings. I had to take off my shoes and pants to wade across one deep crossing, but I suspect the deep water was because of torrential rains in the days before my hike.

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

• Loop trail done in three days, so resupply not needed. Only two sites where camping is allowed: Dawley Pond and Dry Reservoir shelters. Permits are required.
• Plentiful water. Late-winter rainstorms before my hike left trails covered in water.
• Some forest roads leading to trailheads are closed for the winter so it’s a good idea to call Pachaug State Forest headquarters to find where you can park in the off-season.

Season: Year-round

Net Elevation Gain: 2,848 feet

Hiking the Pachaug State Forest Loop

The ~31-mile loop that I hiked combined parts of the Pachaug and Nehantic Trails in Pachaug State Forest, Connecticut’s largest state forest at 26,477 acres.

Horses are permitted on sections of the trail, and I saw two men riding horses and a fair amount of horse poop on trails. The trails also cross sanctioned dirt bike tracks.

Trailhead parking (shown on this interactive trails map) is scattered throughout the forest, but if you’re planning the off-season loop that I did I recommend parking on Fish Road, which has year-round access. The hike from Fish Road to the Dawley Pond Lean-to is ~14 miles, ~11 miles to Dry Reservoir Lean-to, and ~6 miles to Fish Road.

I parked at Fish Road and hiked south for 2 miles on the Nehantic Trail through mountain laurel stands before reaching Green Fall Pond. Water covered low-lying trail sections, a harbinger of wet trails to come for the rest of the hike.

I stopped for lunch at Green Fall Pond, a seasonal recreation area with swimming, picnic tables, outhouses, grills, and camping. This is the southern terminus for the Nehantic and Pachaug Trails.

Heading north from Green Fall Pond on the Pachaug Trail the route follows a low and mostly dry ridge for 4 miles to Route 165, crossing Route 138 along the way. The trail turns right onto Route 165, a state highway with narrow shoulders and fast-moving vehicles, for a short hike skirting the southern end of Beach Pond. The road walk enters Rhode Island at the bridge over the pond outlet, then crosses the road and heads back into the woods as the trail winds north along the pond’s eastern shore. The trail hugs the shore through the Arcadia Management Area in Rhode Island before veering away from Beach Pond and back into Connecticut and Pachaug State Forest. This is a nice stretch of the hike that offers waterfront access for hikers, unlike across the pond where the Connecticut shore is crowded with mega houses.

After leaving Beach Pond the trail begins a roughly 2-mile stretch through rocky ridges and ravines that were filled with water after late-winter rains. The trail becomes a scramble up and down the low but steep ridges, and is the most difficult section of the loop.

After the ridges the trail flattens out, and the hike to the Dawley Pond Lean-to is fast and easy. Although it’s called the Dawley Pond Lean-to, the three-sided structure is north of Dawley Pond, on Great Meadow Brook Pond.

The map here correctly shows the shelter’s location on Great Meadow Brook Pond. The Connecticut Walk Book, a comprehensive guide to Connecticut’s blue-blazed trails, mistakenly shows the shelter on Wickaboxet Marsh.

The shelter was clean when I arrived, but because it is so close to a road the shelter apparently can be a trashy party spot.

I filled up with water at the Great Meadow Brook Pond outlet just before reaching the clearly marked shelter side trail, and recommend filling up at one of the streams north of the pond if you’re coming from that direction. The pond shore is weedy and shallow at the shelter, making it difficult to get water.

The trail heading north from the shelter to Cedar Swamp Road passes stone walls and cellar holes, remnants of long-ago farms. An apparent gravesite for a 3-year-old girl who died in 1891, with fresh remembrances left at the site, sits along the trail through this section.

Emerging from the woods onto Cedar Swamp Road, the trail heads west for a short road walk. The road climbs easily to a wide-open hilltop farm—at 600-plus feet the highest point on the trail—where the wind blew fiercely from the northwest during my hike, pushing against me as I pushed back.

The trail crosses Route 49 to Hell Hollow Road, and the road walk isn’t well-blazed. But a sign does indicate the trail’s return to the woods, which loops north off Hell Hollow Road before heading south and crossing the road again.

The trail stays in the woods for several miles, crossing and following forest roads. The trail passes the Lowden Brook Cascades, and several deep pools in the brook below the falls look like promising cooling-off spots on a hot summer hike.

The walking continues to be easy to the Pachaug Trail junction with the Nehantic Trail. At this point the Pachaug and Nehantic Trails merge and head west through a recreation area popular for exercise walking. The trail soon veers left into the woods and begins ascending Mount Misery, supposedly named by European settlers for the area’s miserable farming soil. The hike to the 441-foot summit is easy and fast, and the main view is to the east and the forests I passed through on the first day of my hike.

The trail descending Mount Misery is blue-blazed but it’s easy to mistakenly follow—as I did—a herd path rather than the marked trail. At the base of the mountain the trail again follows a forest road before re-entering the woods.

A short distance later the Pachaug Trail heads south while the Nehantic Trail continues west to the Dry Reservoir Lean-to. The trail crosses a stream just before the shelter, and this is the water source for the shelter.

The Dry Reservoir Lean-to is clean, but small. I couldn’t stand up without bumping my head.

Although there’s no outstanding view at the shelter, I did see a stunning sunset and sunrise through the bare trees.

The final leg of the hike is ~6 miles, backtracking over Mount Misery and then south on the Nehantic Trail from the junction where the Pachaug Trail splits off to head north. The hike from that point back to Fish Road is flat and easy, with a short road walk on Route 49. Although blazes are few on the state highway the turnoff into the woods is clearly marked.

How to Get to Pachaug State Forest

Norwich and New London are the closest cities in Connecticut, each about a 30-minute drive to Pachaug State Forest. TF Green International Airport in Warwick, Rhode Island, is about an hour drive away.

Trailheads: Fish Road, Green Fall Pond Road, Shetucket Turnpike, Brown Road, Hell Hollow Road, Fire Tower Road, and Headquarters Road.

About the Pachaug-Nehantic Loop

The trails are mostly flat, with easy vehicle access to trailheads. Because camping is allowed only at shelters, the loop I hiked requires at least 14 miles to a shelter the first day, and about 11 miles to a shelter the second day.

But there are opportunities for shorter loops using the many interconnecting trails in the state forest. And two shelters on the Narragansett Trail make a point-to-point hike possible on that trail, or possibly putting together a different loop hike.

Here’s the route I followed on my hike:

Day 1: Park in the parking area for about 6 cars on Fish Road in Voluntown, CT, at the Nehantic Trail trailhead. Hike ~2 miles south on the Nehantic to its southern terminus at Green Fall Pond, and at the pond take the Pachaug Trail north to Dawley Pond Lean-to. Total mileage, ~14 miles.

Day 2: Continue north on the Pachaug Trail to Hell Hollow Road, then veer south and after several miles connect with the Nehantic Trail at the recreation area. Hike west on the Nehantic-Pachaug Trails over Mount Misery, then head north on the Nehantic Trail when the Pachaug splits off to head south. The Dry Reservoir Lean-to is a short distance north on the Nehantic Trail. Total mileage, ~11 miles.

Day 3: Backtrack on the Nehantic Trail and Nehantic-Pachaug Trails to the junction where the Nehantic heads south and the Pachaug goes north. Follow the Nehantic Trail south to Fish Road. Total mileage, ~6 miles.

When to Hike the Pachaug-Nehantic Loop

Spring: April can be a good month for hiking as trees begin budding and wildflowers bloom; May is warm and still mostly bug-free. March is iffy. During my hike in early March streams were swollen—one required knee-deep wading—and trails were filled with water in low spots after a week of heavy rain. Temperatures for my hike were 29 to 45, but a few days later they reached the upper 60s.

Summer: Buggy, humid, and hot.

Fall: My favorite time for backpacking. The days begin cooling off in September, and October brings peak New England foliage. November can continue to have good weather good for hiking, but hunting season begins in the state forest.

Winter: Snow is rare, and when it falls usually melts within days, making the Pachaug a good winter hike if you have cabin fever.

The Pachaug-Nehantic Loop Terrain

The trail is mainly flat as it meanders through pine and hardwood forests. The Pachaug Trail follows low ridges north of Green Fall Pond and then rocky, steep ridges north of Beach Pond.

Mount Misery is the only significant climb on the Pachaug-Nehantic loop.

Ponds, marshes, and streams are plentiful, some next to the trail, others visible in the distance through the trees.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water

Permits: Permits are required to stay at the four shelters in Pachaug State Forest. Dispersed camping is not allowed. Information on obtaining permits from the Connecticut Department of Energy & Environmental Protection can be found here.

Shelters: Dawley Pond and Dry Reservoir shelters are on the loop I hiked; Peg Mill and Legend Wood shelters are on the Narragansett Trail, which connects with the Nehantic and Pachaug Trails at Green Fall Pond. The shelters do not have bear boxes or privies.

Water: Streams and ponds are close enough along the trail that I didn’t worry about running short of water. I carried a liter and never ran dry.

Route-finding: The Pachaug and Nehantic Trails are marked with solid blue blazes; side trails use different-colored blazes and most are marked with signs. Blazes are sparse on road walks but signs mark trail turnoffs into the woods.

Know Before You Go

Clockwise or Counterclockwise?: It’s personal preference. I hiked the Pachaug-Nehantic Loop counterclockwise to get the longer-mile days out of the way on the first two days, with an easy hike to my car on day three.

Private Land: Parts of the loop pass through private land, making it important to follow the camping guidelines to preserve trail access.

Parking: The Connecticut Forest & Park Association, which maintains the 825-plus miles of blue-blazed hiking trails in Connecticut, has an interactive map on its website showing trails, shelters, and trailhead parking, with directions to the trailheads.

Transportation: Driving your own vehicle is the only practical way to get to the trail.

Cell Reception: Good throughout the forest.

Trail Guide: The Connecticut Walk Book is the ultimate guide to Connecticut’s blue-blazed trails. The book is compiled by the Connecticut Forest & Park Association, which maintains the trails, and can be purchased from the CFPA or through Amazon.

Trail Updates: Trail information such as reroutes and damaged bridges can be found here. But the information does not appear to be updated online to indicate whether problems have been resolved.

Ticks: Lyme disease was first identified in Connecticut, and the ticks carrying the disease can be active year-round. I spray my clothes with permethrin and do careful tick checks of my body after every hike in the woods.

About the Forest: At 26,477 acres in six towns, Pachaug is the largest state forest in Connecticut. The word Pachaug derives from the American Indian term meaning bend or turn in the river, referring to the 9-mile Pachaug River. The forest was inhabited by Narragansett, Pequot, Wampanoag, Nipmuck, Pocumtuck, and Mohegan peoples, most of whom were driven from their lands by European settlers.

Tree Damage: Gypsy moths heavily damaged oak and maple trees in the 2010s, evidenced by swaths of clear-cut forests and the number of dead trees on the ground in the Pachaug State Forest.

State Campgrounds in the Forest: The Green Fall Campground and Mount Misery Campground in the forest are car-camping sites that offer base camps for hiking.

Pachaug State Forest Resources

Pachaug State Forest

Interactive Map of Trails, Trailhead Parking, and Shelters

Backpack Camping in Connecticut

Weather

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Region: Mid-Atlantic (Adirondack Park, New York)

Length: 50 miles (3 to 4 days)

Physical Difficulty: Easy

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

Season: Spring, summer, fall

Net Elevation Gain: 4,094 feet

Hiking the Cranberry Lake 50

The Cranberry Lake 50 is in the northern reaches of Adirondack Park, but doesn’t have the soaring mountains of the park’s High Peaks. What it does have is a gently rolling up and down trail with campsites spread out on Cranberry Lake and the many ponds surrounding it.

I met six people while hiking, so this doesn’t have the crowds of the High Peaks. One hiker said this is what drew him to the route.

Trailhead access is from Wanakena and Cranberry Lake, small villages with friendly people and seasonal homes lining the northern shore of the lake. The roadwalk through Wanakena is along quiet roads, and people in homes and passing cars waved to me, asked me if I was “hiking the 50,” and offered water. Most of the walk through Cranberry Lake is on Route 3, a busy two-lane highway with wide bike lanes for walking so there’s less interaction with people in the village.

I parked at the Gilbert Tract trailhead on Route 3 east of Cranberry Lake. My car was the only one in the lot on Wednesday morning; four other cars were parked there when I returned the following Saturday.

The trail from the Gilbert Tract trailhead meanders through hardwood forests and bogs, with plank bridges providing dry passage through the bogs. The first Cranberry Lake campsites are about four miles in on Brandy Brook Flow. A few miles later a side trail leads one mile to East Inlet and more campsites on the lake.

The trail heads away from the lake and begins crossing ridges, passing Curtis and Dog ponds, both with small campsites. I stayed my first night at Dog Pond with two other hikers, stretching out on shoreline rock ledges while resting after a roughly 12-mile day. The next campsite was about 6.5 miles away at Chair Rock Flow on Cranberry Lake, and I didn’t have it in me to continue. So I ate supper by the pond and watched the sunset.

The second day I headed out early with no specific destination. Lean-tos at Olmstead and Cowhorn ponds, campsites at Cat Mountain and Glasby ponds, and lean-tos and campsites at High Falls were all possibilities. This section of the trail has the most elevation gain of the hike, but it wasn’t anything that beat me up.

The trail passed through wilderness forests, at times on what appeared to be old logging roads. Shortly after passing Cat Mountain Pond I had a decision to make: hike the 1.4-mile round-trip spur trail up Cat Mountain (2,257 feet) or continue on to camp at High Falls. I chose the mountain, and the trail was moderately steep with a short rock scramble near the top. The view from the rock ledges on the mountaintop took in the Five Ponds Wilderness to the south, an area I’ve often thought about visiting. And if I had set aside more than four days for this trip, that would have been a possibility.

Once down from the mountain I decided that hiking on to High Falls was out and I headed for Glasby Pond, less than a mile away. The campsite at Glasby Pond is small, but has a short path to the pond, where I filtered water, ate supper, and chatted with another hiker spending the night. In the morning I had breakfast by the pond and watched the sunrise. Total miles for the day (including Cat Mountain) was about 16.

Day 3 was an easy hike to High Falls, about .4 of a mile off the CL50, and the trip was well worth it to see the falls on the Oswegatchie River. This is a popular overnight site, with lean-tos and several campsites.

Back on the 50 the trail follows a mostly straight, flat line about nine miles to Wanakena. Along the way the trail crosses several beaver dams, with the water flowing over the dams ranging from ankle deep to higher, depending on the amount of recent rain. The worst crossing was ankle deep when I went through.

The hike to Wanakena was easy, but I found the flat trail and scenery monotonous. Plus I was pushing myself to to rack up miles to have an easy last day back to my car. Passing through Wanakena cheered me up as I found the people ready with a wave or hello. I regret not stopping for a drink and snack at Otto’s Abode.

My day ended at the tent site near loop 1 on the Peavine Swamp Trail, a nice spot but the only campsite I saw on the 50 that was not on the water. While falling asleep I heard barred owls screeching on one side of the campsite and traffic on nearby Route 3 on the other side. Total miles for the day was about 17.

The fourth day was an easy six-ish miles through woods and on roads back to my car east of Cranberry Lake. I made sure to stop for a snack and drink at the Lakeside General Store, right on the trail on Route 3. It’s a popular stop for CL50 hikers in summer, but hiker visitors had dropped off by the time I stopped by.

How to Get to the Cranberry Lake 50

Find it: Wanakena and Cranberry Lake

Closest city: 2.5 hours north of Syracuse, New York.

You can also start from Albany (3.25 hours) or Plattsburg (2 hours). All three cities have airports, but you’ll be driving from there to Wanakena and Cranberry Lake.

Parking: There are several spots for parking in Wanakena and Cranberry Lake. I parked at the Gilbert Tract trailhead.

• Recreation area on South Shore Road in Wanakena
• Peavine Swamp trailhead on Route 3 west of Cranberry Lake
• Department of Environmental Conservation boat launch on Columbian Road in Cranberry Lake
• Gilbert Tract trailhead on Route 3 a short walk east of Cranberry Lake
• Burntbridge Pond/Brandy Brook trailhead, on Route 3 about 2 miles east of Cranberry Lake. This involves a short hike to the 50.

About the Cranberry Lake 50

The Cranberry Lake 50 is a collection of existing trails in the Five Ponds Wilderness and Cranberry Lake Wild Forest within Adirondack Park. The 50 is clearly marked with bold blue trail markers stamped with the number 50 and it’s hard—but not impossible—to miss a turn and go the wrong way at a trail junction. (Yes, I did miss a turn but corrected it.) Clearly marked side trails lead even deeper into the wilderness and campsites on ponds.

The trail is well-maintained, with only a few blowdowns blocking the trail. All were easy to walk over or around.

Cranberry Lake was created in the late 1800s when the Oswegatchie River was dammed, and got its name from the cranberry bogs around the river. The dam now provides hydroelectric power.

When to Hike the Cranberry Lake 50

Spring: May can be a good month for hiking, between the likely last snowfall and before the onset of bugs. March and April can be cold with snow a strong possibility, and the bugs begin swarming in June.

Summer: Buggy, wet, and warm. Some people prefer the summer when they can swim in the ponds.

Fall: My favorite time for hiking. The temperature was in the mid 60s during the day and low 40s at night when I hiked the third week of September. The maple trees around the lakes were ablaze with red and the sky was brilliantly blue for four days. I can’t remember when the last time was I had a string of days like that.

Winter: Hiking the 50 in the winter is possible, but the snow will be deep and the temperatures low. Snowmobiles use some of the trails that make up the 50 so it’s important to watch out for them.

The Cranberry Lake 50 Terrain

The trail from Wanakena to High Falls is on an old logging railroad, and can be tedious in its unrelenting flatness. Several beaver dam crossings can be overflowing with deep water in spring and high-rain summers. Although some hikers avoid going counterclockwise from Wanakena to avoid the certainty of wet shoes early in the hike while crossing the beaver dams, the flat trail is an easy first-day hike. And your shoes are going to get wet eventually along the trail.

The trail from Route 3 in Cranberry Lake also starts with little elevation change along planks through several deep-water bogs. Only after reaching Cranberry Lake in several miles does the trail begin rolling up and down along ridges, and continues that way to Glasby Pond a few miles east of High Falls.

The 50 follows roads in Cranberry Lake and Wanakena, and an easy trail links the two villages.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water

Permits: No permits are needed to hike the Cranberry Lake 50.

Camping: Lean-tos at High Falls, Cowhorn Pond, and Olmstead Pond, and primitive campsites at other ponds and Cranberry Lake; most have an open privy, and a few have picnic tables. Campsites are marked on the Cranberry Lake 50 map.

Water: Streams and ponds are spread out along the trail so you don’t have to worry about running short of water. There are several beaver ponds on the trail between High Falls and Wanakena, but I don’t recommend getting water from them. I filtered water drawn from streams running into ponds or away from ponds to avoid beaver activity in the ponds.

Route-finding: Blue discs with 50 inscribed on them are nailed to trees along the trail. The markers are easy to see and it’s rare to hike far without seeing one.

Water Crossings: Bridges span most wide streams. But the beaver dam crossings on the trail between High Falls and Wanakena are covered with water, ranging from ankle deep when I hiked in late September to much deeper in spring and a heavy-rain summer.

Know Before You Go

Clockwise or Counterclockwise?: There’s no right answer. Some people hike clockwise to leave the beaver dam crossings and guaranteed wet feet to the end of the trail. Others go counterclockwise because the trail from Wanakena to High Falls is the flattest section. When I hiked I met three people hiking clockwise (four including me) and three counterclockwise, so it’s really personal preference.

Transportation: Driving your own vehicle is the only practical way to get to the trail.

Cell Reception: Surprisingly good in the village of Cranberry Lake, but I couldn’t get reception anywhere else, including in Wanakena.

Trail Guides: The Cranberry Lake 50 Pocket Guide, by Jamie Savage & Spencer Morrissey, Wildcliff Press, was updated in spring 2023 and sold out almost immediately. Other sources for information are the Western Trails guidebook and the National Geographic Adirondack Park (Old Forge/Oswegatchie) map. I used the National Geographic map for trail mileage and the Cranberry Lake 50 organization trail map available here for campsites and shelters along the trail.

Trail Stops: Otto’s Abode in Wanakena and the Lakeside General Store in Cranberry Lake are right on the trail and are must stops for a cold drink and snacks. Both are near trailhead parking.

Lodging: Packbasket Adventures, 12 South Shore Road Extension, Wanakena. Overnight stays, breakfast, packed lunches. Shuttle to Cranberry Lake 50 trailheads. (315) 848-3488

Wildlife: Moose and bears are in the woods, but they’re seldom seen. Red squirrels are seen much more frequently, especially at campsites where they’re trying to raid food stashes. I carry a bear can and had no problems. A fellow hiker at one campsite had a difficult time finding a suitable spot to hang his food bag. Loons live on the lakes, and their haunting calls fill the forest. And of course beavers are active along the trail.

Trails in the 50: The Cranberry Lake 50 combines existing trails to create a loop around Cranberry Lake. Details on those trails can be found on the CL50 website under trail descriptions.

Regulations: State land hiking and camping regulations for the CL50

The 50 Patch: Register your hike and donate a minimum of $5 to get a patch for completing the Cranberry Lake 50.

Behind the 50: The Cranberry Lake 50 is a project of Five Ponds Partners, created to draw people to northwestern Adirondack Park.

State Campground: The New York State-run Cranberry Lake Campground is off Route 3 in Cranberry Lake.

Don’t Rush: The Cranberry Lake 50 can be hiked in three days and two nights. I did it in 3.5. But there are so many side trails leading to ponds deeper into the wilderness that I could easily see spending a week hiking pond to pond. And if you like to fish that’s even more incentive to stay longer.

Cranberry Lake 50 Resources

The Cranberry Lake 50

Cranberry Lake 50 Facebook group

The Cranberry Lake 50 Pocket Guide by James Savage, a professor at the Ranger School in Wanakena.

Western Trails guidebook

Adirondack Park (Old Forge/Oswegatchie) map

Local weather

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The Titcomb Basin Loop is a 44-mile route through the Wind River Range in Wyoming. Highlights of this trip include the namesake Titcomb Basin with an off-trail opportunity to dive deeper into the backcountry.

Day 1 (Elkhart Park – Pole Creek Trailhead to Titcomb Lakes)
Day 2 (Titcomb Lakes to Trapper Lake)
Day 3 (Trapper Lake to Elkhart Park – Pine Creek Trailhead)

Titcomb Basin Loop At-a-Glance

Region: Mountain West (Bridger Wilderness, Bridger-Teton National Forest)
Distance: 44 miles (3-5 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult
—Exposure at high elevations (sun, thunderstorms)
—Sections of loose talus and Class II scrambling (Knapsack Col only)
—Off-trail navigation (Knapsack Col only)

Logistical Difficulty: Easy
—Permits are free and self-issued at the trailhead
—Loop route (no shuttle required)
—Camping is undesignated
—Water is plentiful

Season: Summer, Early Fall

Elevation (average): ~10,500
Total Elevation Gain: 7,411 feet

Hiking Titcomb Basin Loop

Titcomb Basin is a bucket-list backpacking destination in Wyoming’s Wind River Range. The area can be quite popular (by Wyoming standards), but the broader Bridger Wilderness provides ample opportunity for solitude. It’s easy to think of the loop as having three distinct sections: The first section introduces you to the Wind River’s granite monoliths en route to Titcomb Basin; the second section follows the Continental Divide northbound, carrying you deeper into the high country; and the third section is the home stretch, leading you through thick forests before returning you to your car.

I completed this route in three days over Labor Day weekend in 2022. Most hikers I encountered were in the first 14 miles of the trail before reaching Titcomb Basin.

Pole Creek Trail introduces you to the Wind River Range by leading you through dense forests and several meadows before spitting you out at Photographers Point. This section of trail gives you time to warm up your legs and make pack adjustments as needed. (Conversely, if you start the loop in a clockwise direction, you’ll begin with a 1,700-foot descent to Pine Creek … not fun.) From here, you’ll remain above 10,000 feet elevation, weaving around many large and small lakes. Both Seneca Lake (mile 9) and Island Lake (mile 12) are excellent camping options before reaching Titcomb Basin at mile 14.

The basin comprises a series of Titcomb lakes that are surrounded by towering 13,000-foot granite peaks: Henderson Peak to the west, Jackson, Fremont, Sacagawea, and Mount Helen to the east. Most hikers and backpackers will travel in and out the basin via the southern drainage (toward Island Lake). Having read trip reports that mentioned the Knapsack Col alternative (exiting the basin to the north), I knew I needed to give it a try! This is an off-trail route that is both challenging and rewarding for experienced hikers. I recommend researching current trail conditions (closer to your departure date) and assessing your physical capabilities. Route finding, rock scrambling, scree climbing: If this does not appeal to you, return to Island Lake, and continue north on the Highline / Continental Divide Trail.

Approach Knapsack Col by following the Titcomb Basin Trail north until it ends. From here, follow the creek and begin a boulder scramble. The creek is coming from a small lake at 11,700 feet. Continue west up a small saddle before gaining sight of Knapsack Col (identifiable by the snowfield at its base). Approach the col by angling up and across the scree slope. The snowfield I encountered in early September was easy to avoid by following the slope up and to the right. This 1.5-mile section through the upper basin was the highlight of the trip for me.

The remainder of the route, as they say, is all downhill. Follow the faint user trail down to Peak Lake where you regain the maintained trail system. Climb up and over Shannon Pass before reconnecting with the Highline / Continental Divide Tail. This section of the route (along the CDT) is very exposed. The trail grade is not challenging; however, I completed this during the middle of Day 2 and it was very hot. A hat, sun hoody, and sunscreen would be very helpful. Thankfully, water is abundant. 

At Summit Lake, you will leave the CDT to complete the loop along Summit Lake and Long Lake Trails. Along the way, there are many lakes to camp at. After logging 18.6 miles on Day 2, I set up camp at Trapper Lake. There is a sandy beach along the north side of the lake that was unfortunately occupied by other campers when I arrived. I found a more secluded campsite along the western shore and spent the evening rehydrating myself and my dog with plenty of electrolytes.

Wildfire smoke had blown in on my final day as I left Trapper Lake. I began the steep descent (2,300 feet) to Pine Creek, where I refilled water, before a final climb (1,800 feet) back to my car.

How to Get to Titcomb Basin Loop

Closest Major City: Pinedale, Wyoming

Elkhart Park – Pole Creek Trailhead is the most direct route to reach Titcomb Basin. The Elkhart Park recreation area is a 15-mile drive from Pinedale (25-30 minutes). Pick up any last-minute snacks you need at Obo’s Market and Deli before you head up the mountain. There is a large parking area at the trailhead with vaulted toilets but no fresh drinking water. Trails End Campground has 8 sites and operates on a first-come, first-serve basis ($12/night).

When to Hike the Titcomb Basin Loop

Midsummer to early fall is the best time to hike in the Winds. The route travels between 9,000 to 12,000 feet elevation and annual snowfall is an important consideration when timing your hike. Snow may linger at high elevations late into the summer. Labor Day was an ideal time. I encountered no snow on the trail (avoiding the small snowfield on Knapsack Col), negligible bugs, and several late wildflowers.

Even in summer months, make sure you prepare for mountain weather as rain and thunderstorms can develop quickly, and overnight temperatures may drop significantly.

Titcomb Basin Loop Terrain

Much of the route is well marked, graded, and easy to follow. You will encounter some rocky sections, and should expect several long, sustained climbs. The most challenging section of this hike is the off-trail route over Knapsack Col. I recommend tackling this section early in the morning while your legs are fresh and the sun is still low in the sky.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Leave No Trace

Permits: None! Titcomb Basin and the surrounding area are part of the Bridger-Teton National Forest (Bridger Wilderness). Permits are only required for organized groups. Check the US Forest Service website for additional details.

Camping: Bridger Wilderness regulations (and Leave No Trace principles) specify that campsites must be at least 200 feet away from a lakeshore or trail, and 100 feet away from a stream, creek, or spring. It is always best to look for existing-use sites. Mind these regulations if you plan to set up camp at Titcomb Basin; these sites can be difficult to find. Many spots that appear to be existing camp sites around Titcomb Lakes are illegal (given the 200-foot rule). It’s also worth checking above Titcomb Lakes at Mistake Lake, where a few additional sites exist.

Food Storage: Black bears and grizzly bears are present in the Bridger Wilderness and proper food storage is required. Since many areas of the route (including Titcomb Basin) are above treeline, a hard-sided bear canister is recommended. I use the BearVault BV500, which is large enough to carry a few days’ of food, plus toiletries, dog food, and trash at night.

Campfires: Campfires are permitted only below timberline. Cutting or removing standing wood is not allowed. Use established fire rings, pans, or mound fires where fires are permitted.

Know Before You Go

Weather: Weather conditions and temperatures can change rapidly in the Winds. Check forecasts leading up to your trip, but also prepare for wet, windy, or generally colder-than-expected weather. Mountain-forecast.com is a great resource to get localized weather forecasts for the Wind River Range, which allows you to search weather by mountain peak (e.g., Fremont Peak, which towers over Titcomb Basin).

Bears: There is a possibility of encountering black and grizzly bears in the Winds. Carry bear spray and know how to use it. I also like to carry a bear bell. I can’t guarantee the effectiveness, but they are cheap, lightweight, and easier to use than trying to talk to yourself to make noise.

Water: Water is plentiful along the Titcomb Basin Loop. Treat all water with portable water filters, chemical methods, or by boiling. I prefer the Katadyn BeFree Water Filtration System that doubles as a water reservoir.

Off-Trail Navigation: The route described should only be attempted by experienced hikers. That said, Knapsack Col is manageable as a beginner / intermediate off-trail route. The climb is steep, and you will be carrying your backpacking gear, so expect a slower pace. You should be comfortable reading the terrain and have access to both paper maps and electronic navigation systems.

Hiking Titcomb Basin with a Dog: Dogs are allowed in the Bridger Wilderness but should be under control at all times and kept away from other people and wildlife. I have a reactive dog and found the majority of pet owners were allowing their dogs to hike off-leash. This made me very nervous for the safety of my dog, for the safety of their dogs, and for the safety of wildlife in general.

My dog is an experienced backpacker. She was able to navigate the Class II scramble approach to Knapsack Col quite effectively but struggled on the loose talus toward the top of the climb. We encountered another backpacker with a dog (wearing boots) coming up the col from the west side. This route is attainable but challenging for both two- and four-legged friends.

Resources

Bridger Wilderness Regulations (website)

Local weather for Fremont Peak (website)

Inger Appanaitis lives in Northern Colorado and recreates throughout the Mountain West. Her home base includes Rocky Mountain National Park and the Indian Peaks Wilderness. She enjoys thinking about, planning, and executing long days on the trail. Follow along for dogs, training, and the outdoors @ingerfied

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Region: New England (Maine)

Length: 99.4 miles (5 – 10 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

Season: Spring, summer, fall
Total Elevation Gain: ~15,000 feet
Maximum Elevation: 3,654 feet

Hiking the 100-Mile Wilderness

BPR editor Hugh Owen was 22 when he hiked the Appalachian Trail through the 100-Mile Wilderness in 1975 on his first long-distance backpacking trip, carrying close to 50 pounds on his back and barely enough food. He wore cotton clothes and was woefully short of warm layers.

He picked up a trail partner on his second day, and met maybe six other hikers in the Wilderness. It’s a trip that started his love for backpacking.

Hugh relied on youthful hubris during his hike, but the Wilderness is not to be taken lightly. It’s rugged in sections, and isolated. A food resupply is recommended for anyone taking more than 5 days to hike.

But the rewards are immense for those who prepare physically and mentally.

The northern section is filled with remote lakes. Farther south the trail crosses several peaks with stunning views of the lake-studded land below.

And at night the sky is ablaze with stars in an area designated as an International Dark Sky Park.

Starting at Abol Bridge and heading south the AT is relatively easy as it skirts the lakes. The three main climbs in the early section are over Rainbow Ledges and Nesuntabant and Little Boardman mountains.

The AT briefly follows the same path as the Great Circle Trail near Nahmakanta Lake.

The terrain becomes more challenging as it enters the White Cap Range, climbing steeply to White Cap Mountain (3,654 feet).

The view from White Cap takes in the lakes to the north, and for hikers coming from the south, their first view of Katahdin in the distance. The trail continues over Hay, West Peak, and Gulf Hagas mountains before descending to the West Branch of the Pleasant River.

The trail begins climbing again to cross the Barren-Chairback Range and its five peaks: Chairback, Columbus, Third, Fourth, and Barren. The views through the range are some of the best in the Wilderness.

The trail also passes East Chairback, West Chairback, and Cloud ponds, geographically known as tairns, bodies of water created by the scouring of glaciers.

The trail drops after Barren Mountain and continues on a mostly flat path to Monson. Water crossings can be difficult at Long Pond and Big and Little Wilson Streams. Near the Little Wilson Stream crossing the trail passes Little Wilson Falls, the highest waterfall on the AT in Maine.

The Wilderness ends at Maine Route 15, 3.5 miles north of Monson.

How to Get to the 100-Mile Wilderness

Access to the Wilderness is from Abol Bridge in Millinocket, Maine, in the north and from Maine Route 15 in Monson in the south. The Appalachian Trail Hostel & Outfitters in Millinocket and Shaw’s Hiker Hostel in Monson provide lodging and long-distance shuttles.

The nearest airport is Bangor International, about 72 miles from Millinocket and 56 miles from Monson.

Cyr Bus Line stops in Medway, about 11 miles from Millinocket, on its daily run between the Concord Coach Lines station at 1039 Union St. in Bangor and Caribou, Maine. The bus leaves from the station across the street from the airport at 5:30 p.m. daily, and arrives in Medway at 6:40 p.m. An Appalachian Trail Hostel shuttle can pick you up in Medway.

The hostel has a daily 9 a.m. shuttle to the Medway Cyr bus stop, where you can catch the 9:30 a.m. bus to Bangor.

The shuttles are primarily for overnight guests, but non-guests can make arrangements for one.

Concord Coach Lines travels to Bangor from Boston, Massachusetts; New York City; and multiple cities and towns in Maine and New Hampshire.

Greyhound also has a bus that runs to 360 Odlin Road in Bangor from Boston and New York City. The station is about 3 miles from the airport.

Cars can be parked long-term at Abol Bridge while hiking the Wilderness, and can be parked at Shaw’s for $1 a day.

When to Hike the 100-Mile Wilderness

Mid June to early July is a good weather window for early-season hiking, though bugs can be bothersome. Summer is hot, humid, and buggy, and best avoided. September after Labor Day and early October are mostly cool, and the foliage begins turning in late September. Youth groups often overwhelm campsites in the summer. Southbound Appalachian Trail hikers typically begin their trip from Katahdin through the Wilderness in June, and northbound thru-hikers begin trickling through in July. September brings a crush of northbound thru-hikers.

100-Mile Wilderness Terrain

The trail crosses streams that need to be forded, and some of the crossings can be difficult. Some hikers carry water shoes for water crossings; others wade through with shoes on and empty out the water on the opposite shoe.

The terrain varies from soft duff to rocks that can be slippery when wet.

White Cap Mountain is the highest peak at 3,654 feet.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water

Permits: No permits needed for the Wilderness, but one may be needed to hike Katahdin north of the Wilderness.

This is from the Baxter State Park website:

“All backpackers who enter or exit the Park via the A.T. need a permit. In order to stay at the Birches Long Distance Hiker Campsite, hikers should have completed at least 100 miles of the A.T. contiguous to the Park immediately prior to entering the Park. In other words, they should have hiked continuously northward—without leaving the A.T.—from Monson or a point farther south.”

Camping: Shelters and hardened tentsites are abundant along the Appalachian Trail, but be wary of shelter mice that are adept at getting into food. Campfires in the Wilderness are allowed only at shelters and designated campsites. Campsites and lean-tos designated on the Maine Appalachian Trail Club maps have privies, but no bear boxes. Dispersed camping is allowed on the trail except near Nahmakanta Lake.

Water: The trail passes many streams and ponds, and it’s a good idea to filter or purify water. Most shelters and campsites have reliable water sources.

Resupply, Shuttles, and Lodging

Shaw’s Hiker Hostel, Monson: Hearty breakfast, rooms, food drops, shuttles, hiker-friendly gear and food store

The Lakeshore House, Monson: Lodging, restaurant,

100 Mile Wilderness Adventures and Outfitters, Monson: Lodging, shuttle

Appalachian Trail Hostel & Outfitters, Millinocket: Rooms, shuttles, food drops, hiker friendly gear and food store

Whitehouse Landing Camps: Not a resupply stop, but a chance to sleep in a dry bed, wash clothes, and eat a home-cooked meal. Sound the horn once at a dock and the owner will cross Pemadumcook Lake in a boat when he has time.

Know Before You Go

The 100-Mile Wilderness is as wild as it gets in New England, but it’s not totally cut off from civilization. Logging roads pass through the forest, and hunting and fishing camps dot the many lakes.

The logging roads provide access to the Wilderness so it’s possible to resupply during a thru-hike or do a section hike. As logging has declined in the Wilderness conservation groups and the state of Maine have purchased land, and 330,000 acres of the Wilderness are now conserved forests.

Cell phone coverage is spotty, with the best coverage on peaks, so it’s a good idea to carry a satellite communicator.

Should you hike north or south? Hiking north gets the hardest section out of the way first; hiking south lets you ease into the trail and save the peaks for the end. Another possibility is to section hike using a shuttle.

100-Mile Wilderness Resources

Maine Appalachian Trail Club: The Appalachian Trail Guide for Maine can be purchased online at the MATC website. Maps 1-3 cover the 100-Mile Wilderness.

Appalachian Mountain Club: The club’s Moose Point Cabin, Gorman Chairback Lodge and Cabins, Little Lyford Lodge and Cabins, and Medishwa Lodge and Cabins are near or within the Wilderness, and provide good opportunities for day hiking.

Appalachian Trail Visitor Center, Monson

FarOut: The app has a guide for the Appalachian Trail in Maine.

Shaw’s Hiker Hostel

Appalachian Trail Hostel & Outfitters

Baxter State Park

atweather.org

BPR editor Hugh Owen hiked the 100-Mile Wilderness southbound in September 1975 as part of an Appalachian Trail hike through New England. BPR co-founder Maggie Slepian passed through the Wilderness at the end of her northbound AT thru-hike much later.

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Region: New England (Nahmakanta Public Lands, Maine)
Length: ~30 miles (2-4 days)

Physical Difficulty: Easy

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

Season: Spring, summer, fall

Total Elevation Gain: ~3,000 feet

Hiking The Great Circle Trail

The Great Circle Trail links 14 miles of new trails with existing trails in Maine’s Nahmakanta Public Lands, 43,000 acres of state-owned wilderness within the vast 100-Mile Wilderness. The trail connects seven pond-side campsites with options for exploring side trails that lead to other ponds deep in the wilderness.

The route was conceived in 2005 and finished in fall 2021, linking the Turtle Ridge Loop Trail, the Debsconeag Backcountry Trail, and two sections of the Appalachian Trail with newly carved-out sections. Seven primitive campsites are on ponds along the trail, making this an easy loop hike taking 2 to 4 days. The highest mountain on the loop is tree-covered Wadleigh Mountain at 1,866 feet.

The new trail sections are clearly marked as the Great Circle Trail, but the established sections carry their original names, making it difficult to know that you’re on the right path. Trail creator Jay Hall, whom I met during my hike, says GCT signs with mileage will be put on the older, established trails.

I used the Nahmakanta Public Lands map to follow the route, but still missed a trail turnoff at one junction. The new and established sections of the Great Circle Trail are marked with blue blazes, but so are other trails throughout the area. And the AT is white-blazed, with no indication that the GCT follows it.

I hiked the loop going counterclockwise in four days, taking my time to explore side trails to ponds, Tumbledown Dick Falls, and viewpoints, and climbing the rocky ledges of Turtle Ridge for a view of Sing Sing Pond below. The trail could be hiked in as few as two days, but what’s the rush?

Day 1: Park at the Turtle Ridge Loop Trailhead on Jo-Mary Road, and turn left (north) out of the parking lot onto the road. The Great Circle Trail-Tumbledown Section enters the woods on the right after about 100 feet and is marked with a sign. After about half a mile you’ll pass Leavitt Pond and a small campsite. Shortly afterward is the Tumbledown Dick Pond campsite, and a short distance later is Tumbledown Dick Falls. I recommend hiking a steep ~400 feet down a side trail to a pool at the base of the falls, especially on a hot day when you could take a cool dip.

The Tumbledown Section soon ends at the AT. Turn left (north) onto the AT and follow the white blazes to a dirt road on the south shore of Nahmakanta Lake. The AT continues straight, but GCT hikers turn right on the road, following a sign that points to the Debsconeag Backcountry. There are no blazes on the road. After about a mile reach a parking area on the left, where a sign points to the blue-blazed trail through the Debsconeag Backcountry. Follow the trail past Fifth Debsconeag Pond, over a small ridge, and drop down to Sixth Debsconeag Pond and a campsite on its shores.

Day 2: Continue following the Debsconeag Backcountry Trail, eventually turning away from Sixth Debsconeag Pond and crossing a low ridge to 1,100-acre Nahmakanta Lake. Follow the trail past the north shore of the lake and bear left at a sign for the West Trailhead. Shortly after crossing a log bridge the trail splits, and both trails have blue blazes. Bear left to stay on the GCT; the trail to the right continues to Eighth Debsconeag Pond.

Ford Rainbow Stream a short distance later, and then turn right on a dirt road. Reach the white-blazed AT after about half a mile and turn left on the AT. Right on the AT heads north to Katahdin.

The AT runs alongside Pollywog Gorge, and soon after the gorge you’ll turn right at a GCT-Pollywog Section sign. Once again you’ll be following the blue blazes of the GCT. The trail passes Pollywog Pond and eventually reaches the Pollywog Pond South Campsite.

Not long after Pollywog Pond the trail comes out to a dirt road on the north end of Wadleigh Pond. Turn right here and cross the pond outlet bridge. Left after the bridge leads to the group campsite and tent platform on the pond and right continues on the trail. There are two shelters and an old stone fireplace and chimney at the group campsite in a meadow, and a tent platform in the woods. Wood steps lead down to the pond and a great view.

Day 3: A woods road behind the shelters leads back to the trail, where you’ll bear left. After a short distance bear left again, following GCT signs. At another woods road bear left, and then make a quick right. The climb to tree-lined Wadleigh Mountain is moderate, and a side trail below the summit leads to a view of Katahdin.

The descent from the summit is briefly steep, then levels out through wet areas near Third Musquatch Pond. A short trail at the pond’s southern end leads to the Third Musquatch Pond campsite.

Continue on the GCT to the Katahdin View parking area, bear left onto the road and then right into the woods. Follow the GCT to the junction with the Turtle Ridge Loop Trail, where you’ll bear right. Shortly afterward cross the Sing Sing Pond outlet and bear left to the campsite. It’s about 3 miles from the campsite to the car, easily done in 90 minutes. I chose to camp at the pond and climb the Turtle Ridge Trail to Turtle Ridge and a great view of the pond.

Day 4: It’s ~3 smooth miles to your car on Jo-Mary Road. Continue alongside the pond and turn left at the sign for Rabbit Pond, then right at a second sign for Rabbit Pond. At this second junction I went left on day 3 to climb Turtle Ridge. The GCT crosses steppingstones at the Rabbit Pond outlet and climbs gradually along ledges, where you’ll have to keep an eye out for the East Trailhead sign on the left. (This where I missed the sign and continued straight by mistake.) After this junction it’s a quick walk to the road, where you’ll turn left to reach the parking lot a short distance away.

How to Get to the Great Circle Trail

Easiest Access: Turtle Ridge Loop Trailhead on Jo-Mary Road in the Nahmakanta Public Lands. I plugged Turtle Ridge Loop Trailhead into Google Maps and followed the directions from my home in Connecticut to the trailhead.

Katahdin View Trailhead: Located here on Google Maps.

From Greenville: This state brochure has complicated directions from Greenville.

Closest Towns: Millinocket, Greenville, Brownville

When to Hike the Great Circle Trail

The trail can be hiked June through October, though September and early October are probably the best months. June can be brutally buggy, and July and August can be uncomfortably hot and humid. The weather cools and the bugs mostly disappear in September and October. Light snow is possible in late September and early October, and heavier snow is always a chance in late October.

Great Circle Trail Terrain

The tread is mostly soft pine duff, with some rooty and rocky sections. There’s very little elevation gain, making this a great trail for a relaxing hike.

Logistics: Camping, Fees, Water

Camping: Seven pond-side campsites are spaced less than ~8 miles apart; Wadleigh Pond with its two shelters and wide open pond access is the jewel of the sites. Camping is free at all sites, and all have fire rings, pit toilets, and water access; some have picnic tables.

Hiking counterclockwise from the Turtle Ridge Loop Trail parking area the campsites are at Leavitt Pond, Tumbledown Dick Pond, Sixth Debsconeag Pond, Pollywog Pond, Wadleigh Pond (referred to as group site on signs), Third Musquatch Pond, and Sing Sing Pond.

Fees: Jo-Mary Road is a private road maintained for commercial logging, and recreational users pay a fee. Find information about the road here. There’s a checkpoint registration and pay station just north of the Jo-Mary Road junction with Route 11, and from there it’s a slow 16 miles to the Turtle Ridge Loop Trailhead parking. Logging trucks travel fast on the dirt road so it’s best to keep to the right and be alert.

Water: Every campsite is on a pond, which makes gathering water for meals easy, and there are frequent stream crossings. I carried a liter of water, filling up as needed when I passed a pond or stream.

Great Circle Trail Know Before You Go

Fishing: Because the ponds are close together it’s possible to arrive at camp early and spend time fishing. Information about Maine fishing licenses is here.

Maps: The GCT is marked on a map of the Nahmakanta Public Lands found here.

Trail History: Work on the GCT started in 2005 under the guidance of Jay Hall, Maine Parks and Lands’ Nahmakanta Unit forester, with help from the Maine Conservation Corps, the Maine Appalachian Trail Club, Caribou Parks & Recreation Department, and Unity College. Several years ago professional trail contractors were brought in. The trail opened in September 2021.

Jay says his trail planning, construction and maintenance experience in California, Oregon, Colorado, New Hampshire and Maine allowed him to pioneer trail routes efficiently, saving time that he needed for his timber management obligations in Nahmakanta. His youngest son helped finish some key projects, such as packing in and installing 120 trail signs and building the stone staircase at Wadleigh outlet.

Now retired, he plans to volunteer a few days each year to complete some items left from the final “punch list” of trail work.

Some of that work involves putting up GCT trail signs on old trails, and moving the trail off Fourth Debsconeag Lake Road from Nahmakanta Stream Bridge to the southeast Debsconeag trailhead. Because the bridge is in the AT corridor, relocating the trail will require coordination with MATC and National Park Service staff.

About the Nahmakanta Public Lands: The state-owned land encompasses 43,000 acres of forests and low mountains, streams and brooks coursing down steep slopes and running through narrow gorges, 24 ponds covering 10 or more acres, and more than 50 miles of undeveloped shoreline. Within the Nahmakanta Public Lands is Maine’s largest ecological reserve, 11,802 acres that include much of the 9,200-acre roadless area known as the Debsconeag Backcountry. Read the state’s brochure about the land here. Note that the map with this brochure does not show the new sections of the GCT

About the 100-Mile Wilderness: Since the Appalachian Mountain Club began its Maine Woods Initiative in 2003, the organization has acquired and permanently protected more than 100,000 acres of forest and fish habitat in Maine’s 100-Mile Wilderness. The Wilderness stretches from Monson, Maine, to Baxter State Park, and surrounds the GCT. The AT is the most popular trail for hiking through the Wilderness.

Resources

North Maine Woods

Download a map of the trail here

Check the weather forecast here.

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The Waterville Valley Skyline Loop is a challenging New Hampshire hike, covering 15 trails and nine peaks. The entire loop is roughly 34 miles long and has about 10,150 feet of elevation gain. This is not for the faint of heart, but the rewards are worth the effort.

Region: New England (White Mountain National Forest, New Hampshire)
Distance: 34 miles, 2-4 days

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Weather changes in the White Mountains must be monitored
• Rocky climbs for the ascents of Mt. Tecumseh, Mt. Osceola, East Osceola and North Tripyramid.  
• The slides on North and South Tripyramid should be navigated with care only in dry conditions.
• Cumulative elevation makes for near continuous climbing

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

• Livermore Trailhead provides a perfect spot for either a one-day trip or multi-day trip. Using a car as a midpoint allows hikers to carry less gear if they desire.
• No resupply options – pack what you need in your car.
• No permit required; however, parking must be paid for at Livermore Trailhead if you do not have a White Mountain National Forest parking permit ($5/day at the iron ranger).

Season: Summer, early fall

Elevation (average): ~2,500 feet
Total Elevation Gain: ~10,150 feet

Hiking the Waterville Valley Skyline Loop

The Waterville Valley Skyline Loop is not comprised of new trails; in fact many of them can be found in the Appalachian Mountain Club White Mountain Guide.  The Loop strings together trails from the AMC guide, Waterville Valley cross-country ski routes, and Tripoli Road.  The intention of the established loop is to bring hikers to the Waterville Valley area, a less popular area than Franconia Ridge or the Pemigewasset Wilderness. This area also doesn’t get as much attention from hikers as the Presidentials to the northeast.  While this is a quiet, desirable feature of these trails and mountains, the community is eager to share it with others.

I have hiked the Skyline Loop in a variety of ways. I did this intentionally so I could experience it from both the overnight hiker and day hiker perspective. This loop is traditionally hiked clockwise starting with Mt. Tecumseh. I never hike without checking the mountain weather forecast from a variety of sources, including the National Weather Service Recreational Report for higher summits. Since these peaks are in the 4,000-foot ballpark, this forecasting is reliable. That said, prepare for all weather conditions in the Whites regardless of season. My kit includes rain layers, warm layers, hat, and gloves … even in the summer. 

Overnight Trip on the Waterville Valley Skyline Loop

I gathered a few friends for a 20-mile backpacking trip of the west loop. The weather forecast was for the 60s during the day and high 40s at night.  We started at the Livermore Trailhead and headed to Mt. Tecumseh by taking the Pipeline Trail to the Waterville Valley Resort and the location of the Mt. Tecumseh Trailhead.  This mountain is frequently hiked.  The trailhead has received a lot of work over the years, which includes the installation of the longest set of stairs I have ever seen.  We summited, had a snack and headed down toward Tripoli Road.  We were banking on refilling our water at the brook near the Tecumseh Trailhead at Tripoli Road and were rewarded with a flowing stream, despite dry conditions.  We loaded up knowing water would be scarce until the Greeley Ponds area.

We headed east on Tripoli Road for just over a one-mile dirt road walk.  I was surprised to pass open campsites along the road on this busy Saturday in August.  These are first-come, first-serve spots that would make a great camping option for this area if you don’t want to deal with White Mountain National Forest Backcountry Camping Rules. If you plan on staying on Tripoli Road, make sure you check in with the caretaker and pay the fee. This area can be challenging to tent camp due to the terrain. Hammock campers will have an easier time setting up and following the strict rules. Other camping options include Osceola Vista Campground on Tripoli Road. This campground has a combination of reservable and first-come, first-serve sites. The same goes for Waterville Campground, a short drive from this area.

Our hike up Mt. Osceola was gradual and comfortable with an overnight pack. The open summit is 2.9 miles from the trailhead and easily one of the best vistas on this hike. We took some time for a snack before heading over to East Osceola.  You will descend the famous chimney between the peaks.  On this day, we chose the bypass because we had overnight packs.  We made short work of this section and summited East Osceola quickly.  This treed-in summit has a cairn to signify the top.

The descent down the Mt. Osceola trail to the Greeley Ponds Trail is steep and unrelenting for just over a mile—in some spots the grade is over 25%. The trail eases up substantially as you come into the Greeley Ponds Scenic Area.  We hooked a right onto the Greeley Ponds Trail looking for flowing water. We passed by the Greeley Ponds, considering filtering from here but decided to take our chances on hitting flowing water at Mad River. We were thrilled to see the water was flowing nicely a few tenths of a mile south of Lower Greeley Pond. We stocked up for the night and set to work locating our camping location for the night.  We set up off the Greeley Ponds Trail, in keeping with backcountry camping principles, a few miles from the Livermore Trailhead, making for an easy walk out in the morning and a total of 20 miles for the west side of the Skyline Loop.

Tripyramids

There is such versatility with this loop. Livermore Trailhead makes a perfect spot for resupply if you plan on doing this in two-plus days. You can also hike part of the loop from this lot. The Tripyramids are a staple for any Northeast hiker checking off their 48 4,000-footers. The Skyline Loop recommends use of the Scaur Trail, giving hikers a gentle ascent to access North Tripyramid.  If you are feeling adventurous, take the detour and do the North Slide.  Be prepared for hand-over-hand climbing and tricky rock wall navigation.  You will be rewarding with breathtaking views and a badge of honor.  DO NOT attempt North Slide if it’s raining or the slabs have a chance of being wet.  Also, do not go down North Slide.  To follow the loop on the map, go up Scaur Ridge Trail to North Tripyramid, travel across the relatively tame and treed ridge walk and down the South Slide.  South Slide has a fair amount of scree, but it is manageable and short.

Kettle’s Path, Irene’s Path, Old Skidder Trail and Snows Mountain

I had not seen this section of the trail before preparing to write this article, and I will certainly go back. I parked at Livermore Trailhead on a beautiful Saturday, and I was surprised to not be sharing these sections of trail with another soul. I took all side trail options, which gave me a breathtaking view of Waterville Valley from the Scaur. I also visited the Flume Spur off the intersection of Irene’s Path and Old Skidder Trail. The water must rage here in spring and the rock chimney is worth checking out. Old Skidder Trail is not used much, so just a faint footpath remains. This entire area is connected by a system of “roads.” Essentially these are carriage roads used for mountain biking and cross-country skiing.  After exploring these sections, I filtered water from Slide Brook and took the carriage road over to get on the Snows Mountain Trail, then hiked toward Snows Mountain clockwise. My ascent was nearly 1,000 feet, and the summit has an overgrown outlook, but if you continue clockwise on your descent, you will come to a second outlook over Waterville Valley.  Heading down this way was much tamer.

How to get to the Waterville Valley Skyline Loop

Nearest Town: Waterville Valley

Located off Tripoli Road, Livermore Trailhead is prime for accessing this area.  Waterville Valley is a quaint town, with coffee shops and a country club.  The mountains and skiing are a major draw in this area.  Note: Tripoli Road is closed in the winter, so Livermore Trailhead may be accessed through the village of Waterville Valley.

When to Hike the Waterville Valley Skyline Loop

Fair weather hikers will want to stick to the warmer months of late May through early October.  Year-round hikers, with proper gear, including snowshoes and microspikes, will be able to enjoy some of these trails.  Enjoyment in the winter is limited by your interest in properly breaking trail in snowshoes, and experience is necessary. Please do not walk down the middle of the groomed cross-country trails in the winter!  

In clear weather, hikers will be rewarded with amazing views of the Whites.  As always, check the weather forecast (see below) and turn around if conditions deteriorate beyond your ability to stay safe. 

Waterville Valley Skyline Loop Terrain 

The bulk of this loop is classic White Mountain National Forest terrain.  Rocks, roots, and slabs dot most of the trails. The cross-country trails are a nice break on the legs. I always say the Whites are not for the faint of heart, so be prepared to work for all of your elevation gain, especially with a heavy pack.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water and Gear

Permits:  The Waterville Valley Skyline Loop is located in the White Mountain National Forest.  A permit for parking can be obtained ahead of time.  Otherwise, pay the $5 at the Livermore Trailhead parking lot.  The same goes for other lots located on this loop and managed by the WMNF.

Camping: While camping is permitted, you must follow White Mountain National Forest Backcountry Camping Rules. The terrain here is brutal for tent camping. Rocks and roots making finding a flat spot nearly impossible. Experienced backpackers may find a place to camp around 2,500 feet in some places.  Hammock campers will do best on this loop.  Established camping areas in close proximity include:

Tripoli Road Camping Area. Fee required and may be sold out early in the day in the summer.

Osceola Vista Campground

Waterville Campground

Water: Water is plentiful despite the moderate drought in this area in 2022.  While it looks clean and is flowing, filter or treat it! I carried 1.5 liters most of the time, filling up with extra at Mad River for the overnight.  You will not find water up high (over 2,000 feet in most places), so grab water when you can. 

Special Gear: 

• Poles are invaluable in this terrain
• Paper map and Gaia GPS with downloaded maps.
• Ten Essentials for Hiking

Know Before You Go

Waterville Valley Recreation Department did a great job stringing together existing trails to create an adventure for day hikers and backpackers alike. I was impressed with how quiet the eastern side of the trail was (with the exception of the Tripyramids). I love the versatility of the trail system in that it provides day and overnight options if you plan well.  

Resources

Waterville Valley Skyline Loop: Information and map 

White Mountain National Forest Camping 

National Weather Service Recreational Report: For the White Mountains

Hiker friendly campgrounds:

Osceola Vista Campground 

Waterville Campground

Tripoli Road Camping Area

Appalachian Mountain Club White Mountain Guide and maps

Gaia GPS

The post Waterville Valley Skyline Loop appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

The Old Loggers Path is a moderate 27-mile loop hike in northern Pennsylvania. The loop traverses a primarily wooded area, passing waterfalls and vistas along rolling hills, and can be hiked in 2-3 days. 

Region: Mid-Atlantic (Loyalsock State Forest, Pennsylvania)
Length: 27 Miles (2-3 Days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• Some moderate inclines and declines
• Pleasant Stream might pose a challenge to cross depending on recent rainfall and weather
• Plenty of reliable water sources (some seasonal streams may not be available year-round)

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

• Loop hike with parking at trailhead
• Well-maintained trail with orange blazes
• Dispersed camping allowed throughout with two lean-tos available on a first-come, first-served basis
• Spotty cell phone reception (including from the forest entry to the trailhead parking)
• No permits required

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Total Elevation Gain: 3,727 feet

Hiking the Old Loggers Path

Permits: Not required 

The Old Loggers Path is a lovely 27-mile loop hike that can be completed in either a clockwise or counterclockwise direction over 2-3 days. Our group of 5 hikers (a mix of beginner and moderate skill levels) enjoyed the wooded path, beautiful vistas, creek crossings, and inclines and descents along the way. The trail is very well-maintained and blazed in orange with signage at key intervals, especially when crossing logging roads. 

Our first day took us about 10 miles from the trailhead at Masten Road and Pleasant Stream Road to the creek crossing at Pleasant Stream. There were two notable climbs to Sprout Point Vista (just off trail) and Sharp Top Vista. There is a lean-to near Sprout Point Vista, available on a first-come basis for camping, but no convenient water source. Sharp Top Vista offers impressive views and an excellent opportunity for a snack break. The trail continues downhill from Sharp Top to Pleasant Stream. There are established sites with spots for several tents available on both sides of Pleasant Stream. Depending on the amount of recent rain the stream crossing should be fairly easily, with crossing options both up and down stream. During our crossing, the water was about knee-deep in some spots (for this 5-foot, 4-inch hiker), but not very rapid. Farther up and down stream there were additional crossing options.  

Day two took our group another 10ish miles from Pleasant Stream, up a climb to Sullivan Mountain, then back down (steep at times) to follow Rock Run Stream. The Sullivan Mountain lookout offered another stunning view of the valley, although be sure to follow the trail closely back into the woods as the turn off the road can be easily overlooked. There are many dispersed sites along the trail as you follow Rock Run, in addition to the first-come, first-served Doe Run Shelter (about mile 17). Our group chose a site with waterfall views where Hawk Run meets Rock Run. This site was a bit of a squeeze for three tents, but doable.

Day three was the final seven miles back to the trailhead. The majority of the day was uphill until the final two-mile descent back to the parking lot. Neither of these were especially steep.

Overall, the Old Loggers Path is an excellent loop hike with moderate terrain and convenient logistics that make for a wonderful (long) weekend trip. Be sure to sign the logbooks along the way to help track trail utilization. 

Getting to the Old Loggers Path

Nearest City: Williamsport, Pennsylvania (34 miles south of the trailhead)

Trailhead: Near the Masten Camping Area at the intersection of Masten Road and Pleasant Stream Road. The trailhead is well-marked and there is ample parking space. Masten Camping Area provides some picnic tables and fireplace. Map it here.

When to Hike the Old Loggers Path

Old Loggers Path is best hiked from spring to fall, but can be hiked in winter too. As long as the state forest roads are passable, the trail is accessible. Our group hiked it April 30 to May 2, 2021, and experienced a range of temperatures (sleeting/hail and 30 degrees at night, to sunny and 60 during the day). Bugs will be bothersome in the spring, especially after rainfall, and in the summer be especially aware of rattlesnakes. 

One-Day Itinerary: With an early start and a light pack, this loop can be completed in one day. At least one trail runner passed us doing just this. 

Two-Day Itinerary: Start in either direction and camp at a dry site at Sullivan Mountain (13-14 miles per day).

Three-Day Itinerary: Start clockwise from trailhead at Masten Campground to Pleasant Stream (10 miles). Pleasant Stream to Rock Run Stream (10-11 miles). Rock Run Stream to Masten Campground trailhead (6-7 miles). 

Old Loggers Path Terrain

Old Loggers Path traverses the Loyalsock State Forest and is mostly wooded. There are several vistas overlooking the surrounding rolling hills and valleys in addition to beautiful streams and waterfalls. The trail is very well-maintained with orange blazes. 

Old Loggers Path Logistics: Resupply, Water, Land Management

Logistics are fairly straightforward for this trip. You will need a car to get to the trailhead, but will return to it at the trailhead upon completion of the loop. Expect minimal cell phone coverage once you enter the state forest. 

Resupply Strategy: None needed. There are no convenient access points into any town, nor are they necessary due to the mileage and loop nature of the trail. Plan to carry what you will need for your entire journey. 

Land Type: The Old Loggers Path is entirely contained in the Loyalsock State Forest. There are no fees associated to access the land or trailhead, and camping is readily available. It is on the native land of the Susquehannock people. 

Water Sources: There is year-round reliable water at Pleasant Stream (mile 0, trailhead), Pleasant Stream (mile 10), all along Rock Run (~20) and numerous seasonal streams throughout the trail. Water is typically plentiful with no long carries. 

Know Before You Go

Note that fires are prohibited (with a “soft ban”) in Pennsylvania state forests from March 1 to May 25 due to fire danger. You may receive verbal permission to have a fire during this time frame if weather conditions permit by calling the state forest office at 570-946-4049 prior to your trip. 

Resources: 

• Loyalsock State Forest
• State Forest Hiking Trails
• Old Loggers Path Guide and Map – PAHikes

Rachel began as a weekend warrior backpacker and has since evolved into a 2020 PCT NOGOer and a successful 2021 Colorado Trail thru-hiker. Currently she works full time in Corporate America, eagerly awaiting her next outdoor adventure.

The post Old Loggers Path appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

Region: Mountain West (Colorado)

Distance: ~28-40 miles, depending on peaks (2-4 days) 

Physical Difficulty: Moderate  

• Well-maintained trail
• Moderate climbing into the basin
• High elevation

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

• No permits required
• Out-and-back with easy parking
• Plentiful water

Season: Summer
Elevation (average): ~9,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: ~9,500 feet round-trip (not including 14ers)

Recommended gear for a high-elevation trip

Hiking Purgatory Creek to Chicago Basin

This is a popular trail for people looking to bag the three 14,000-foot peaks in Chicago Basin and to experience some of the most aesthetically pleasing routes in the San Juans. Many hikers I chatted with had plans to base camp in the basin and hike the three peaks over the course of several days.

Another option to access Chicago Basin is via the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, which brings the approach down to six miles. The train was not running in the summer of 2020 when I hiked this trail, so I began the approach from Purgatory Flats Trailhead (link below).

The hike starts out wooded during the ~4.5 miles down to the Animas River, switchbacking on stock-grade trail. I picked up the Animas River Trail at the river, then hiked around five miles of mostly flat terrain until connecting with the Needle Creek Trail.

This section climbed steadily through a canyon with several creek crossings and bursts of wildflowers. It took me about 2.5 hours to break out into Chicago Basin, where I found plenty of other hikers and plentiful dispersed camping.

I continued another half-mile up to 11,000 feet, setting up camp inside the signed camping boundary. Hiking from the trailhead to base camp took me seven hours. Overall the trail is relatively mellow and very easy to follow, though the climb up to Chicago Basin felt challenging due to the elevation.

I was hiking by 6:30 to bag Windom, and made it to the summit by 8:45. I was back at camp at 10:30 a.m. to pack up, and at the bottom of the canyon around 1 p.m. I made it to the junction of Purgatory Creek Trail by 3 p.m, and in another two hours I was back at the truck. I didn’t track specific mileages, but I was hiking around 2.5 miles per hour on average, and heading down was certainly easier than coming up to the Basin, minus the final climb back to the Purgatory Creek Trailhead.

How to Get to Purgatory Creek Trail

Nearest Town: Durango, Colorado (35 minutes, map it here)
Purgatory Flats Trailhead Map

This trail profile references the full hike (without the train ride), which means starting at Purgatory Flats Trailhead across from Purgatory Resort. This is a quick 30-minute drive from Durango heading north on Highway 550.

The trailhead is tucked off the road near a fishing pond across from the resort off 550. It’s easy to find and there is plenty of parking.

When to Hike Purgatory Creek to Chicago Basin

Hiking any of the Colorado 14ers, or even to the base camp between 10,500 and 11,000 feet is best done in mid-to-late summer. I hiked through here in mid-August and the weather was perfect. I didn’t deal with any snow on Windom, and water was plentiful.

As with any of these high-elevation routes, hiking earlier or later in the summer means clinging snow or early-season snow. With the right equipment this is fine, but be prepared for any and all inclement weather.

The weather was in the mid-70s and sunny during the day and dropped to the low 30s overnight. I wore my shorts, base layer, and light rain jacket to climb Windom in the morning.

Bagging the Needles 14ers

Many hikers access Chicago Basin to bag to the three 14ers visible from camp. These peaks—Sunlight Peak (14,059 feet), Mt. Eolus (14,083 feet), and Windom Peak (14,082 feet)—are accessible from a base camp at Chicago Basin. You can either track it with a GPS app, or follow the unofficial trails to the peaks. I had limited time, so I base camped the first night and hiked Windom in the morning, then hiked all the way out after collecting my gear. There was a connector trail between Sunlight and Windom that I did not take due to time constraints.

Hiker trails and cairns are visible, though sometimes faint and the path can be tricky to follow. These are not the easiest 14ers, though they are some of the most epic. Expect lots of scrambling and rock hopping for the final 1,000 feet of vertical gain, and use appropriate caution and route-finding.

As usual in Colorado’s high country, be on the lookout for afternoon thunderstorms and aim to be off the peaks if you see something rolling in.

Purgatory Creek to Chicago Basin Terrain

The trail is pretty standard for Colorado. It switchbacks down to the Animas River through a primarily wooded trail. The trail is easy to follow and graded for stock, so it’s steady but never feels too steep. The trail is wide and flat along the river before climbing up to Chicago Basin, all on wide dirt trails and well-graded switchbacks.

Once you climb higher in Chicago Basin toward the peaks, the trail naturally becomes more faint and challenging to follow, though there are plenty of hiker paths to follow. Once you’re in the rock field, follow the path of least resistance to bag the peaks, and be ready for rock-hopping and scrambling at the top. These peaks are not the easiest of the Colorado 14ers, and will require some scrambling, route-finding, and boulder-hopping at the top.

Logistics: Camping, Water, Gear

Camping: Dispersed, permit-free camping can be found along the majority of the route. There are campsites in the woods before you begin climbing to the basin, along the Animas River, and all throughout the basin itself. Keep tabs on the posted camping boundaries (I camped right inside the boundary around 11,000 feet) and respect your neighbors.

Water: Water is plentiful along the entire route once you drop down to the Animas River, but do not collect water from here. Wait for creek crossings, and collect from Needle Creek once you get closer to Chicago Basin.

Gear: I packed my usual gear for a three-season, high-elevation overnight. This included a freestanding tent, 20-degree sleeping bag, rain jacket, down coat, and base layers. I hiked in shorts and a T-shirt, then climbing Windom in my base layer shirt and rain jacket for extra layering.

I also threw my running pack into my backpack and used it in the morning to climb the peak. This is my usual strategy for base-camp peakbagging excursions, as I don’t like carrying an empty, floppy 40L pack up the peak.

Know Before You Go

Terrain Change: Like I mentioned, bagging the 14ers is a different ballgame than the approach hike. If you plan to hike the 14ers in this basin, be prepared with the right gear, route-finding, and timing.

Dispersed Camping LNT: As always, follow all LNT principles at these dispersed sites. There are no reservations or permits, so it’s up to you to camp in spots that don’t disturb the area, stay within the posted camping boundary in Chicago Basin, and pack everything out.

Summer Storms: Monsoon season can be wicked and dangerous at high elevations on exposed terrain. Keep an eye to the sky as you ascend the peaks, and know that even the most innocuous gathering clouds on the horizon could mean an incoming lightning storm.

Contaminated Water: While health officials say it’s safe to drink water from the Animas River (which was contaminated after a mine breach in 2015), we’re all about the “better safe than sorry” and advise against it. There’s plenty of other water to collect.

Additional Resources

National Forest Purgatory Flats Trailhead

Animas River Drinking Water

Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad

Chicago Basin 14ers

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The Gila River Loop (Middle Fork-West Fork) is a 45-mile loop through the Gila Wilderness of New Mexico that can be hiked in 3-5 days. It features frequent river crossings, soaring canyon views, and the potential for additional miles or side trips. 

Region: Southwest (Gila Wilderness, New Mexico)

Distance: 44.5 miles (3-5 days)

Physical Difficulty: Easy

• Frequent river crossings
• One major climb and descent, otherwise mostly flat terrain
• Exposed conditions; canyons can get hot during the day and cold at night

Logistical Difficulty: Easy 

• No permits required
• Loop trail 
• Abundant water near the Middle and West Forks 

Season: Late Spring, Early Fall

Elevation (Average): 5,600 to 7,400 feet 

Total Elevation Gain: 3,500 feet 

Hiking the Gila River Middle Fork-West Fork Loop 

The Gila River Loop (Middle Fork-West Fork) is a perfect early- or late-season route for anyone looking for a hike full of beauty and low in difficulty. Minus one big climb and descent, the route is mostly flat. However, innumerable water crossings, poison ivy, possible very hot and very cool weather, and varied, beautiful terrain remove the possibility for boredom. 

I was looking for the perfect trip to bring my new-to-backpacking cousin something with low levels of suffering and high rewards. Besides both nights being pretty cold in mid-May, this route fit the bill. We were initially planning three nights out, but despite my inordinate caution around poison ivy, the evident burning and rash on my calves sped us up so that I could get to a shower and out in just two nights. 

The Middle Fork of the Gila River is an extremely popular alternate with Continental Divide Trail thru-hikers (who can be encountered in the wild if you’re lucky). This northern part of the loop passes a small hot spring early on and Jordan Hot Springs 7 miles in, while the southern part passes Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument at the West Fork Trailhead—all worthy side trips. Since the national monument has limited hours, it’s worth planning your trip or loop direction around a visit (we arrived right after closing and were super bummed). 

Overall, this is the perfect trip to bring a newbie backpacker willing to get their feet wet or a pleasant easing in or out of the hiking season. Views abound, water crossings add a fun challenge, and the beauty of the wild Gila will have you planning your next trip back before you’re even done. 

How to Get to the Gila River Middle Fork-West Fork Loop

Nearest Cities: 

Gila Hot Springs, New Mexico (4 miles)
Silver City, New Mexico (44 miles, 1.5 hours)
Deming, New Mexico (95 miles, 2 hours) 

Middle Fork Trailhead 

West Fork Trailhead 

To make this route a loop, there is an easy 2-mile road walk between the Middle Fork and West Fork trailheads. You can begin at either Middle Fork or West Fork Trailhead, and head your preferred direction, starting with trail or road. Shuttles with Gila Backcountry Services are also available if you fly into Grant County Airport 12 miles outside Silver City or need a ride from Silver City. 

Coming from any direction, Silver City is your last chance for real groceries before the hike. Immediately prior to entering the wilderness, you will pass through the small town of Gila Hot Springs, where the only real amenity is Doc Campbell’s Post, a popular stop for CDT hikers to load up on homemade ice cream. The store does have some light resupply options, but hours are limited. To start at the West Fork Trailhead, continue past Doc Campbell’s and turn left at the continuation of state Highway 15, following signs for Gila Cliff Dwelling National Monument. To start at the Middle Fork Trailhead, continue straight past the Gila Cliff Dwellings turn and the Gila Forest Service Visitor Center. The trailhead will be on your left. 

When to Hike the Gila River Middle Fork-West Fork Loop

This route is best hiked in late spring, early summer, or early fall

Although this hike generally falls into the spring/fall category for backpacking, it is at a higher elevation than most low desert hikes and can therefore be a bit colder in spring. This especially applies to the portion of the loop where you switchback up the canyon to high desert ponderosa pines where temperatures drop considerably. 

May/June and September/mid-October are ideal for warm daytime temps, cool nighttime lows, and avoiding summer crowding. This hike could be pushed further into the summer if you are prepared for daytime highs in the 90s. However, flooding is common in the Gila, so avoid late summer rains (July/August) when river crossings become dangerous and trails frequently wash out. Check here for the most recent trail conditions. 

Gila River Loop Middle Fork-West Fork Terrain 

While hiking along the Middle and West Forks of the Gila, the trail winds back and forth across the river, making for very frequent water crossings. Of the two forks, the Middle Fork contains the most water crossings, while the West Fork Trail is more direct and spends more time in the forest. In between getting your feet wet, the trail leads you through sand, brush, forest stands, rocky river beds, and lush vegetation (almost always including poison ivy). 

Logistics: Direction, Land Management, Water

Loop Direction:

Counterclockwise: Head this direction to arrive at the hot springs on your first day, get the majority of the river crossings out of the way when your feet are fresh, and have a more cruisy hike out
Clockwise: This is the direction to go for fewer early-hike river crossings, and to soak your feet in hot springs near the end of your trip

Land Management: The majority of the loop is in Gila Wilderness, part of Gila National Forest, where camping is free and open. Be sure to follow LNT principles and use already established sites. The first few miles of the West Fork Trail heading north from the trailhead are in Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument. Camping isn’t permitted in the national monument, so be sure to give yourself enough time to get beyond the boundary, or you can choose to stay at either Upper or Lower Scorpion Campgrounds near the West Fork Trailhead. 

Water: While walking along the Middle and West Forks, you will be crossing your water source every few minutes. When crossing from fork to fork, however, expect completely dry conditions and load up on water before you start the climb. 

Prior Spring on top of the plateau between the forks is an unreliable water source and was dry for us. Check here for updates, especially if you are extending your trip to a different area in the wilderness. 

Special Gear

Long Pants: I didn’t heed this warning and was punished for it. Even though I can ID poison ivy and did my best to avoid it, it still got on my legs. Trust me, it is everywhere. Wearing shorts isn’t worth the possibility of ruining your trip. 

Neoprene Socks (optional): I didn’t feel a need for these, but if you are prone to very cold feet or don’t like being wet, they could be valuable for water crossings.

Know Before You Go

Side Trips:

Hot Springs: Half a mile in from the Middle Fork Trailhead is the small Lightfeather Hot Springs. If starting early in the day, it might be too early to stop, and isn’t quite as established of a soaking area. Jordan Hot Springs 7 miles in is a popular day hike destination and much more worthy of a soak. Look out for an easy to miss side trail to the north that takes you up a hill to the secluded hot spring. Expect crowds, especially if traveling on a weekend or holiday. Nearby campsites are limited. FYI: public nudity is not permited in the national forest. Also beware of the brain-eating amoeba Naegleria Fowleri present in these hot springs and do not submerge your head underwater.  

Gila Cliff Dwellings: Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument is a worthwhile side trip at the beginning or end of your loop. You will pass by the small museum at the trailhead and a 1-mile loop trail guiding you through ancient cliff dwellings. They are open every day from 9:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. 

Doc Campbell’s Post: If you are able to stop by here during their limited business hours, the homemade ice cream is the perfect way to cool off after your trip. 

Add or Remove Miles: If you have the time or desire to extend your trip in the Gila, there are a multitude of other trail offshoots or loop extensions. Shorter loops are possible as well. For more trip ideas, I found this book to be helpful. Just be sure to check here for updated trail conditions and water information if adding miles. 

Carry Water When You’re Crossing Between Forks: There is no reliable water on the plateau between forks, so load up before the climb!

Signage isn’t Always Clear or Existent: Pay attention to your maps when you know you’re nearing a trail crossing. 

Make Sure Trails are Passable Floods and fires frequently damage the trail. Find updated conditions. 

Flora and Fauna: We encountered one rattlesnake in the middle of the trail that we had to give a wide berth. Less harmless wildlife included thousands of tadpoles ranging from minuscule to enormous. In May, wildflowers and poison ivy were abundant. Know how to properly identify poison ivy. 

Additional Resources

Triple Crown Hostel: Hiker hostel in Silver City, New Mexico. Great place to stay before or after your hike.

Gila Backcountry Services: Shuttles 

Backpacking in the Gila Wilderness: US Forest Service 

Gila Trails Info: Gila Trail resources 

Tess Mullaney is an Arizona native with roots in the high-desert mountains. She enjoys writing about nature and experiencing the life-changing effects that the outdoors can provide. Besides hiking, she is often gardening, reading, or spoiling her black fluffy cat Ezra. You can find her Instagram here, or read more on her blog. 

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