The 55-mile Teton Loop is an alternative to the popular Teton Crest Trail, with fewer logistical hurdles, and an opportunity to experience the full diversity of Grand Teton National Park.

Region: Mountain West (Grand Teton National Park)
Distance: 55 miles (2-5 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Steep terrain, including two 3,000-foot climbs
• Climbing and descending at high elevations
• Exposure, sun, and thunderstorms at high elevations

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

Season: Summer, early fall

Total Elevation Gain: 9,643 feet

Hiking the Teton Loop

This 55-mile loop allows hikers to experience the Tetons from almost every angle in the park, including low alpine forests, steep granite canyons, and high alpine ridges. Attempting the route in two days is challenging yet rewarding. You could turn this route into a longer endeavor but this requires additional work navigating the park’s competitive backcountry permit system.

My strategy in attempting this loop was to keep things simple. I was willing and capable to hike long days with a light pack. I had initially tried and failed to secure an advance reservation permit in January when they are first released. Without this advance permit, however, I had the flexibility to wait and monitor current weather and wildfire conditions until I was ready to begin my hike.

The park allocates two-thirds of backcountry camping for first come, first served permits. To secure one of these permits, I arrived at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station at sunrise the day before my desired start date. While I was not the first visitor in line at 5 a.m., many of the people ahead of me were requesting climbing permits. Whether trying to secure an advance reservation or a first come, first served permit, be prepared with several alternative itineraries. The stars aligned and I was granted my first choice start date and camping zone. 

The Grand Teton National Park website warns hikers to expect travel of no more than 2 miles per hour, with an additional hour for every 1,000 feet of elevation gain. My plan was to start at the Jenny Lake Trailhead and camp at the Death Canyon Shelf camping zone, splitting the loop into two even-mileage days (final mileage being 28.6 and 26.7 miles). My pace was brisk but comfortable and I enjoyed longer breaks at water sources when needed. 

How to get to Teton Loop

Closest Major City: Jackson, Wyoming

This route can be accessed from several trailheads along Teton Park Road with overnight parking permitted at the following trailheads: String Lake, Jenny Lake, and Lupine Meadows.

Parking at these trailheads overnight is only allowed with a backcountry permit (more on permits below). Car make, model, and license plate information are recorded on your backcountry permit (no physical parking permit is issued). One advantage of starting and ending at Jenny Lake is the Jenny Lake Store. If you are exiting the park headed north, this is one of the few food options as you head up Highway 191 toward Yellowstone National Park.

When to Hike the Teton Loop

Midsummer to early fall is the best time to hike the Teton Loop (I highly recommend aiming for wildflower season!). Other conditions you may consider when planning for this trip:

Snow Level: Snow may linger at higher elevations.

Wildfires: Breathing conditions, let alone views, can be severely impacted by heavy wildfire smoke later in the summer. It depends on the year, but keep tabs on air quality and wildfire locations.

Bugs: I did not encounter any bugs but I would recommend carrying bug spray as insurance.

Weather: Daytime and overnight temperatures can fluctuate dramatically from the valley floor to the Teton Crest.

Afternoon Thunderstorms: I experienced light rain and some thunder all three days I was in the park. Bring a rain jacket!

It is also important to remember that Grand Teton National Park is home to many large mammals. During certain times of the year these animals are more or less active. For example, the peak of the Rocky Mountain elk breeding season runs from mid-September through mid-October. I carried a bear bell (and bear spray) to alert larger animals of my approach. Bear canisters are required for food storage in the backcountry. Canisters may be checked out for free when you pick up your permit. 

Teton Loop Terrain

The Teton Loop has varied terrain but nothing too challenging. Starting at Jenny Lake, the route leads you through a large meadow before entering the alpine forest along the Valley Trail. This section of trail is spotted with numerous lakes and creeks and water is ample. As you begin climbing up to the crest, you will encounter rockier terrain; however, trails are well maintained along the remainder of the crest.

Teton Loop Logistics: Permits, Camping, Leave No Trace

Permits: A backcountry permit is required for all overnight stays in Grand Teton National Park. Camping is only permitted in designated camping zones. Regardless of the processes outlined below, make sure you have several alternative itineraries on hand when securing your permit.

The advance reservation system is highly competitive! One-third of permits are reserved for each camping zone. Reservations for the summer season are accepted January through May (check the park website to find out what day and time they are released for the current season). Reservations are accepted on recreation.gov and require a $45 nonrefundable processing fee. 

The remaining two-thirds of permits are saved for first come, first served. These permits are available at the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center, Colter Bay Visitor Center, and the Jenny Lake Ranger Station. Permits are available the day of your start day or one day in advance. There is a $35 fee for each walk-in backcountry permit.

Camping: Some of the backcountry camping zones of Grand Teton National Park, such as Marion Lake, have “improved” sites with designated tent sites and bear boxes. Other camping zones lack these amenities and backpackers should use existing bare ground sites to minimize impact. You must always camp at least 200 feet from water and the trail, so that you are out of sight and sound of others. 

Leave No Trace: Campsite “improvements,” such as constructing benches and digging trenches, are prohibited. Fires are also prohibited in the backcountry. Visitors are required to carry out all food scraps and trash (including toilet paper and used tampons or sanitary pads). These items can be disposed of at the Jenny Lake Trailhead when you complete the loop. Additionally, bury all human waste 6-8 inches deep in soil that is at least 200 feet from lakes, streams, and wetlands.

Know Before You Go

Weather: Weather conditions and temperatures can change quickly in the Teton Range. Check forecasts and be prepared for cold temperatures, especially at higher elevations. Weather forecasts for Jackson, Wyoming, or Moose, Wyoming, (the closest towns) may not reflect conditions at higher elevations. Check with a park ranger when you pick up your permit for more accurate information.

Bears: Black and grizzly bears live in Grand Teton National Park. Carry bear spray and know how to use it. Backcountry campers are required to use an Interagency Grizzly Bear Committee approved canister for storing food, toiletries, and garbage. (Bonus: They also protect against rodents!) 

Water: Water is available from the many lakes and mountain streams. Treat all water with portable water filters, chemical methods, or by boiling. Assume all untreated water contains harmful organisms.

Difficulty: The route described should only be attempted by experienced hikers. Steep climbs and changes in altitude could negatively impact hiking endurance and overall physical health. Prepare yourself with good physical conditioning and basic first aid staples such as ibuprofen, blister care, and electrolytes.

Shorter Options: Listen to your body and take one of the cutoffs described above if needed.

Additional Teton Loop Resources

Backcountry Camping – Grand Teton National Park (website)

Backcountry Camping – Grand Teton National Park (pdf)

Backcountry Permits –Recreation.gov (website)

Inger Appanaitis is a modern-day Viking leading solo expeditions through the Pacific and Mountain West regions. Despite growing up on the Southern Oregon Coast, she thrives in the alpine! Some of her favorite areas to explore are the Eastern Sierra, San Juan Mountains, and the Northern Rockies (Beartooths, Sawtooths, Tetons, and Winds…oh my!). Follow along for dogs, training, and trails @ingerfied

The post Teton Loop appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

Popular as a cycling route but also prime for backpacking, the Maah Daah Hey Trail is a 144-mile point-to-point route across the badlands and prairies of western North Dakota. It passes through Theodore Roosevelt National Park and features stark landscapes, abundant wildlife, and unique geological formations. 

Region: Plains Midwest (North Dakota)

Length: 144 miles (10-14 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• Summer and winter conditions tend to be extreme, best to hike in the shoulder seasons.  
• The trail is moderately graded with a moderate amount of climbing.
• Lots of wind and sun exposure with little shelter or shade.

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Water is scarce, water boxes can be used to cache ahead of time if desired.
• Both termini are remote though a shuttle service is available.
• Trail is well marked and maintained.
• Permit not required.

Season: Late spring, early or late summer, fall

Elevation: 1,978 – 2,940 feet
Total Elevation Change: (South to North) +16,149 feet, -16,710 feet

Hiking the Maah Daah Hey Trail

The Maah Daah Hey Trail winds through western North Dakota, connecting the north and south units of Theodore Roosevelt National Park. Well known in the mountain biking community as one of the nation’s premiere stretches of single track, it is still relatively unknown in the backpacking world. For those willing to travel to this remote location, manage potentially long water carries, and brave an often unforgiving landscape, this trail has a lot to offer for backpackers as well as those traveling by bike or horseback. 

The Maah Daah Hey Trail offers hikers a unique opportunity to travel through remote landscapes in nearly complete solitude while remaining on a well-maintained and well-marked trail. Rustic campgrounds are located roughly every 20 miles along the trail and have both potable water and latrines. The town of Medora is located one-third of the way along the trail and can serve as a resupply point. It also provides opportunities for food and recreation before or after your hike. 

Hikable in 10 to 14 days, the Maah Daah Hey Trail makes a good intermediate hike. Because of the scarce water, the amount of exposure, and the potentially extreme temperatures, I would not recommend this trail to beginners. For those with some experience, it is not particularly strenuous or demanding. 

How to get to the Maah Daah Hey Trail 

Nearest City: Dickinson, North Dakota (40 minutes)

Dickinson has the nearest airport and is a 40-minute drive from the closest town of Medora, around two hours from either terminus. Bismarck, ND, has a slightly larger airport and is an additional 1.5 hours away. 

Both termini, CCC Campground in the north and Burning Coal Vein campground in the south, are easily accessible on mostly paved roads. Other campgrounds and trailheads along the Maah Daah Hey are more difficult to reach. 

There is a shuttle service offered by Dakota Cyclery in Medora. As the name suggests, they primarily cater to mountain bikers but they are happy to accommodate hikers as well. Cost for a one-way shuttle from Medora (for up to four people) people is $250. Vehicles can be left at the shop. 

Keep in mind that if you plan on using the designated water boxes to cache water for yourself, caching will take between a half and a full day. 

When to Hike the Maah Daah Hey Trail

The wells at the campgrounds are turned on each year in May. It is not recommended that you hike when the wells are not in service, as they are the only reliable sources of water on trail. If you are hiking before Memorial Day, it would be a good idea to call ahead and make sure the water is on before you go. The best time to hike this trail is within relatively narrow windows in late spring or early fall. Winters are prohibitively harsh and the town of Medora mostly shuts down in the off-season. Summers get surprisingly hot in the Badlands: it is not uncommon for temperatures to reach 100 degrees Fahrenheit. 

If you choose to hike in the spring, be aware that when it rains the bentonite clay in the Badlands becomes a real mess. Things tend to dry out quickly and it is recommended that you refrain from tearing up the trail by waiting until things dry if it becomes too muddy. Ticks are often abundant in the spring but the species in the area do not carry Lyme disease. 

The Maah Daah Hey Trail Terrain 

Most hikers will average between 1,500 and 2,500 feet of elevation gain per day on this trail. There are some steep and extended climbs but the trail was built with bikes and horses in mind so it tends to be nicely graded. While often dry and dusty, the clay that makes up the Badland formations becomes sticky, slippery, and difficult to traverse when it does rain.

Maah Daah Hey Trail Logistics: Permits, Camping, Resupply and Water

Permits: A permit is not required to hike this trail and camping permits are only required within the Theodore Roosevelt National Park boundary. I did not camp within the park, but make sure you call ahead if you plan on setting up camp within national park boundaries.

Camping: Many people will choose to camp at the primitive campgrounds along the trail, as they are the only reliable sources of water beyond what you cache yourself. They are reasonably priced at $10 per night and are equipped with a hand pump for water and a pit toilet. For those who prefer dispersed camping, there are plenty of opportunities in the national grassland. Make sure to pay close attention to your map, however, as the trail does pass through private and state land where camping is prohibited. 

Resupply: Medora is located one-third of the way along the trail. It is about 1.5 miles into town along a paved bike path. Resupply options are fairly limited but there is a small general store and a few restaurants. Hours can be limited so you may want to call ahead. If you are utilizing the shuttle service, you also have the option to leave a box in your vehicle or at Dakota Cyclery. Again, just make sure they will be open when you plan to pick it up.  

Water: Procuring water is the most challenging aspect of the Maah Daah Hey Trail and requires that you have a plan before starting. If you are confident hiking 20 miles or more between water sources, the trail can be done with only a single water cache. The cache is easily accessible and on the way to the southern terminus, so there is really no reason not to utilize it.

If that distance is outside your comfort zone, you will need to cache more water ahead of time. There are designated water boxes provided for this purpose along the way. Make sure to label your water with your name and the latest possible date you would plan to use it. “Expired” water can sometimes be found in the cache boxes and is free for the taking, however, you should not rely on it. Some of the water boxes are very remote and seldom used. 

Waterbox Locations (Mile markers run south to north)

Besides the water caches, hand pumps at the campgrounds are the only other reliable source of drinking water. The water from the pump is technically potable but tends to be very cloudy. If you are picky about such things you might consider filtering it. There are a few stream and river crossings but they are all drainages that come from the Badlands, and we don’t recommend drinking from them even after filtering. They apparently have high mineral/metal content and tend to clog filters with sediment. They also aren’t conveniently located so I didn’t bother. I did filter out of a few cattle tanks near the north end of the trail, but they are inconsistent.  

Know Before You Go

Plentiful wildlife: Bison, wild horses (in TRNP), pronghorn, mule deer, prairie dogs, prairie rattlesnakes, and bull snakes can all be found along this trail. You will also encounter plenty of cattle grazing on the national grassland and private property. Be aware of your surroundings and give the wildlife plenty of space (especially the bison and rattlesnakes).  

Have a plan for drinking water! It is hard to overstate the importance of this as it is the most challenging aspect of the trail. If you plan on hiking before Memorial Day, call ahead and make sure the water pumps have been turned on. 

Check the water levels before attempting to cross the Little Missouri River: The trail crosses the Little Missouri twice (Sully Creek and Elkhorn). The water levels are typically fine for crossing but it can be impassable in the spring or after heavy rains. Check USGS or download RiverApp and search for “Little Missouri River (ND).  

Resources 

Dakota Cyclery – Shuttle Service

Guide Book

Trail Maps

The Maah Daah Hey Trail Association 

bikepacking.com 

The post The Maah Daah Hey Trail  appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

The Mid-State Trail is a 331-mile, orange-blazed footpath traversing some of Pennsylvania’s wildest landscapes from the Maryland border to the New York border. It can be hiked in 3-4 weeks and is part of the Great Eastern Trail, an alternative to the Appalachian Trail.

Region: Mid-Atlantic (Pennsylvania)
Distance: 331 miles
Season: Four-season with proper gear and skills. Spring, summer, and fall recommended.
Total Elevation Gain: 52,803 feet

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• Gravel forest roads, bike paths, long flat stretches
• Boulder fields and rocky trail, steep ascents and descents
• Thick brush and tall grass with footpath nonexistent or obscured

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• The MST passes through multiple well-spaced towns (little hitching required)
• FarOut app for navigation through poorly maintained sections
• Camping is illegal on Pennsylvania state game lands, making some sections tough logistically and financially
• Northern and southern termini are country roads with no place to leave a car

Season: Fall, spring, summer. Winter with proper gear and skills.

Hiking the Mid-State Trail

The Mid-State Trail is a lightly traveled footpath bisecting Pennsylvania south to north and is often touted as one of the state’s best-kept secrets. It traverses four geographically distinct regions and yields new and interesting terrain as hikers cross into each one. Many thru-hikers are able to complete the trail in 3-4 weeks, making it a good hike for extended time off. It is part of the longer Great Eastern Trail, an alternative to the Appalachian Trail. 

The Mid-State Trail is not for those searching for a social experience or frequent jaw-dropping views. Hikers looking to complete this trail should bring a buddy or enjoy solitude. While the trail is often close to civilization, towns are highly rural, giving the trail a remote feel that the Appalachian Trail lacks farther east. 

The Mid-State Trail alternates moderate walking on forest roads with tougher hiking on steep inclines and declines and sharp, rocky ridgelines. The many small points of interest on this trail—historical remnants, quiet and scenic state parks, and ecologically unique areas—keep hikers’ interest along the Mid-State Trail. 

Getting to the Mid-State Trail

Southern Terminus

Nearest City: Cumberland, Maryland. ~17 miles from the trail 

Getting to the Southern Terminus: 

The southern terminus is at the Pennsylvania/Maryland border at the intersection of Black Valley Road and Gap Road. The nearest parking is a half mile up the road at Solid Wood Floors and Moulding (814-458-2032), which allows hikers to park across the street. 

A Greyhound bus also runs to Cumberland. From here, a taxi to Flintstone, Maryland, and a 2-mile road walk or hitch could take hikers to the border to start the hike. 

My dad was kind enough to drop my hiking partner and me at the border on Gap Road. This is the simplest option, but people sometimes offer shuttles on the Mid-State Trail Facebook group, and finding a suitable ride here is not out of the question. 

Getting to the Northern Terminus

Nearest City: Corning, New York, ~16 miles from the trail

The northern terminus is at the intersection of Heffner Hollow Road and State Line Road on the Pennsylvania/New York border. There is no parking here. 

There is no public transport to the terminus, so finding a shuttle or getting a ride will be the best option. The Crystal Hills Trail continues north from the border with orange blazes. 

When to Hike the Mid-State Trail

The Mid-State Trail can potentially be hiked in all four seasons. Spring brings clouds of mosquitoes and overgrown trail, but water will be plentiful. Fall and later summer will have less of all of these, but will have sweltering temperatures and high humidity. Pennsylvania winters are typically milder than those in the taller mountains of the Southeast and New England; however, microspikes, snowshoes, gaiters, and winter backpacking experience will all be necessary to hike this trail in the colder months. Frequent, bright orange blazes make the footpath easy to find in the snow. 

Mid-State Trail Terrain

The Mid-State Trail varies between highly mountainous and rocky terrain with steep ascents and descents to road walks along country lanes and isolated forest roads. Some small sections in the Everett region lack a footpath entirely and will have hikers wading through tall brush, though they are mostly well-blazed and not difficult to follow. 

Logistics on the Mid-State Trail

Resupply: While the towns along the Mid-State Trail are mostly small (population > 3,000), Dollar General and similar stores are not difficult to find. If you have a special diet or want more variety, most towns also have post offices that will hold packages for hikers. 

Many resupply points along the MST do not require hitchhiking, with the exception of some larger towns, such as State College and Lock Haven. 

Everett: NOBO Mile 35.4

The trail runs through the town of Everett, which has a Foodliner (full grocery store) and a Sheetz convenience store, as well as a laundromat, pharmacy, and several restaurants. The lean-to in Tenley Park is the last legal camping northbound for 50 miles. 

Post office info: 

814-652-2525

Monday to Friday, 8:30 a.m. to 4:45 p.m.; Saturday, 9 a.m. to 11:30 a.m.; Sunday, closed

Williamsburg: NOBO Mile 80.2

The trail runs through Williamsburg, which has a Dollar General, lodging (highly recommend the Blue Lantern B&B – 814-937-1825), a laundromat, and a pizza restaurant. 

Post office info:

814-832-3214

Monday to Friday, 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.; Saturday, 8:30 a.m. to noon; Sunday, closed

State College: NOBO Mile 115

Getting to State College is more logistically challenging than most towns along the MST, but the town will have the most amenities, including many options for restaurants, lodging, and resupply. From the Hubler Gap vista, take the Musser Gap Trail to the Musser Gap parking lot, and then the Musser Gap Greenway to the bus stop at The Yards at Old State (apartment complex), about a 3-mile walk. The CATA bus runs Monday to Saturday and the fare as of 2022 is $2.20. https://catabus.com/ for most up-to-date fares and routes. Uber and Lyft should also be abundant in the area. 

Post office info: 

814-238-2435

Monday to Friday, 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Saturday, 8 a.m. to noon; Sunday, closed

Lock Haven: NOBO Mile 207.9

Hitchhiking or walking west from Route 150 will take you to Lock Haven, which boasts more amenities than neighboring McElhattan or Woolrich, both of which are much closer to the trail. Like State College, Lock Haven is a college town with lodging, restaurants, a town-wide bus service, laundry, and a full grocery. 

Post office info

570-748-8055 

Monday to Friday, 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m. to noon; Sunday, closed

Camping: The Mid-State Trail traverses many different types of public lands. On state forest lands, impact sites are spaced approximately every 10 miles, and many are marked on the FarOut app. About 70 miles of trail in the southern half traverses state game lands, where it is illegal to camp, and off-trail lodging arrangements must be made. Some options to work around this include: 

Tenley Park Shelter: NOBO Mile 35.4

Hikers may stay for free at this three-sided lean-to in Tenley Park on the edge of the town of Everett. Call the Everett Borough at 814-652-9202 to get permission to camp. 

Loysburg Campground: NOBO Mile 50.9

0.2 miles off-trail to an RV campground with a fee of $20 per night. Bathroom amenities and water access are reported to be sporadic. 

Our Place Guesthouse in Martinsburg: NOBO Mile 64.1

Call 814-505-9006 to reserve a room. Pickup point is the state game lands parking lot next to Route 164, 0.6 miles south of the highway crossing. 

Williamsburg: NOBO Mile 80

Dollar General and post office for resupply, Blue Lantern B&B for lodging. Beginning of the Lower Rail Trail section of the MST, which has three-sided lean-tos and water en route. 

Water: While the Mid-State Trail often traverses ridgetops, it dips into plenty of stream valleys, towns, and state parks, and passes by frequent springs. The State College region is the only exception. It traverses the Tussey ridge, where water can be scarce in any season, and a long water carry or a climb down off the ridgetop may be necessary to access water. 

Special Gear: While it may be tempting to hike in shorts in the heat of spring and summer, long pants tucked into long socks come highly recommended–preferably treated with Permethrin. Many sections of the MST are grown in with brush (some of it prickly) and the trail hosts scores of ticks. A sturdy pair of tweezers is also recommended to remove any ticks. 

Know Before You Go

• There is no camping on state game lands. Hikers should plan around this and note that certain sections of trail on private land may be closed during the hunting season. Check the Mid-State Trail Association’s website, Facebook group, or MST’s guide in the FarOut app for the most updated information.
• Ticks abound on the MST. Brightly colored socks and/or gaiters may help you find the dark-colored bloodsuckers crawling before they bite. Permethrin, long pants, and long sleeves are recommended.
• Supply chain issues are preventing the MSTA from printing the latest maps; the FarOut app is the most current option as of this writing. The trail has also undergone several reroutes in the past year, which the MSTA keeps updated in the app.
• Bicycles are not allowed on most parts of MST, except where the route is shared with multi-use paths, such as the Lower Rail Trail.
• The Mid-State Trail was built by a Penn State professor who valued the metric system over the imperial system. All trail signs and measurements on official MST maps are in kilometers and meters.

The post Mid-State Trail appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

The Ozark Highlands Trail is a 254-mile point-to-point backpacking route in Arkansas. It is a blazed trail through the northern part of the state with multiple stream crossings. A full thru-hike is considered to be 165 miles, with 254 miles being the full proposed (and possible) route.

Region: Middle South (Arkansas)
Length: 165 – 254 miles (10-18 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• Creek and river crossings ebb and flow with the weather
• The trail is moderately graded
• The climbs and descents are short

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• No permits needed
• Both termini are hard to access
• Resupplies can be tough

Season: Fall, Winter, Spring

Hiking the Ozark Highlands Trail

The Ozark Highlands Trail is a route through northern Arkansas that follows the spine of the Ozark Mountains from east to west.

The trail is white-blazed along most of its route and is fairly straightforward to follow. There is also a FarOut guide. Compared with the Ouachita Trail, there are not as many signs or markers, but for the first chunk, every mile is signed.

The trees are deciduous with small groups of pine and the weather is temperate and mild. On my thru-hike I saw deer, elk, and porcupine. Locals also spoke of small black bears in the Ozarks. It is a peaceful environment that is far removed from any towns. This also makes the resupply strategy more difficult than comparable trails.

One big factor on the Ozark Highlands Trail is the water. There are numerous crossings every day, an abundance of waterfalls, and little need to have more than a 2-liter capacity. I thru-hiked this trail in February, which is one of the wetter times of the year, but water seems to flow year-round based on many of the online comments and water sources on maps.

The Ozark Highlands Trail is not finished, and there are two distinct sections with the opportunity to connect them as I did. The first 165 miles to the Buffalo River at Woolum are largely considered an entire thru-hike, but there is a decent section for 40 more miles to Dillards Ferry at Highway 14 that I was able to easily complete. From there, it was a 20-mile slog of bushwhacking, looking for a trail, and following gravel roads to get to the Sylamore section of the trail. The east end of the trail was beautiful and my 254-mile route ended at Matney Knob Trailhead.

How to Get to the Ozark Highlands Trail

Western Terminus: Fort Smith State Park, Arkansas
Closest City: Fort Smith (1 hour)

Eastern Terminus: Matney Knob Trailhead, Arkansas, or Woolum Campground, Arkansas
Closest City: Mountain Home, Arkansas (20 minutes)

I hiked this trail eastbound and was able to get a ride to the trailhead from a friend, but there is a very active Facebook group and numerous resources for getting to the trail on the Ozark Highlands Trail Association website.

Ozark Highlands Trail Western Terminus

From Fort Smith, Arkansas, it’s a 40-minute drive to Lake Fort Smith State Park

Ozark Highlands Trail Eastern Terminus

The trail ends abruptly at either Woolum or Matney Knob Trailhead (depending on where you conclude your thru-hike). Mountain Home is the largest city of any kind, but transportation can be tricky. I was able to hitch across the state to Fayetteville but there are also some bus options and the opportunity to rent a car to get to a major city. I found hitching to be fairly simple in Arkansas.

When to Hike the Ozark Highlands Trail / Which Direction

The Ozark Highlands Trail fits snuggly into the shoulder seasons when the weather is tamer in Arkansas and without the sticky heat and humidity that the region experiences during the summer. A generally equal split hike the trail in the early spring and the fall, with the season lasting a few months twice a year.

The trail can be hiked year-round, but a number of factors ranging from bugs to floods to cold weather make the February to April and October to November timeframes the most popular. In late February it snowed on me and the rivers were swollen after a rainstorm. The weather can be inclement, and despite the lack of true elevation the terrain can be rugged.

Most thru-hikers start at Lake Fort Smith State Park and travel eastbound because it is fairly easy to get a ride to and makes the logistics work a little better. The two possible termini on the east side are both remote and difficult.

Ozark Highlands Trail Terrain

The Ozark Highlands Trail is very much under the canopy of deciduous trees, but there are a number of views as the oscillating elevation brings you up and down numerous mountains. The trail is rocky with mud, waterfalls, and numerous stream crossings. Compared with the drier Ouachita Trail to the south, the Ozark Highlands Trail has a lot more dependable water.

Ozark Highlands Trail Resupply

Resupply can be complicated on the OHT. There are no major towns nearby, and the roads cutting through the mountains are lightly traveled. But with a couple of longer carries the trail can be thru-hiked without going hungry.

Resupply 1, Ozone, Arkansas
Mile 68

A tiny Burger Barn that accepts thru-hiker packages is only 2 miles off the trail. The other option at this crossing of Highway 21 is Clarksville. If you can manage the long carry from here to Woolum, the simplest way to thru-hike the Ozark Highlands Trail is to only resupply at this location.

Resupply 2, Highway 65
Mile 205

If you are hiking the full (proposed) length of the trail, Highway 65 is well-traveled and can provide access to a Dollar General in St. Joe. It is a fairly easy hitch and is the only real relevant resupply option for the second half of the lesser-traveled section of the trail.

Logistics: Camping and Water

Camping: Camping is dispersed and plentiful on the OHT. There are a number of flat spots, and FarOut has a number of waypoints marked as potential spots to set up a tent.

Water: There is so much water on the Ozark Highlands Trail that flooding can be an issue. Especially in the Hurricane Creek section, the water crossings can swell substantially when it rains. Keep an eye on the weather and the current levels of the rivers and creeks.

Ozark Highlands Trail: Know Before You Go

Weather: Shoulder season hiking comes with variable weather. I experienced rain, snow, and sunshine in late February. The weather was in the 70s one day and dipped below 20 the next. Packing the gear to weather any potential conditions is highly recommended.

Ozark Highlands Trail Resources

Ozark Highlands Trail Association

Ozark Highlands Trail Guide – Book

Ozark Highland Trail Facebook

The post Ozark Highlands Trail appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

The Snowbank Lake Trail is a 24-mile loop in northern Minnesota. The trail is mostly within the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. It features beaver dam crossings, stunning views of Snowbank Lake, and the potential for additional miles.

Region: Great Lakes / Midwest (Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, Minnesota)
Distance: 24 miles (2-3 days)

Physical Difficulty: Easy

• Rocky and rooty terrain
• Beaver dam crossings
• A few steep but short climbs and descents

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Most of the route is unmarked
• Permit required
• Remote trailhead with possible shuttle options

Season: Late Spring, Late Summer, Early Fall
Total Elevation Gain: 2,000 feet

Hiking the Snowbank Lake Trail

The Snowbank Lake Trail in Minnesota is a great option for intermediate backpackers. The footpath circles Snowbank Lake and passes smaller lakes and ponds. Five miles in the south are shared with the Kekekabic Trail.

After completing the Superior Hiking Trail in sections, I was ready for more of a challenge. In September 2020, my friend and I backpacked this loop to celebrate her birthday. We didn’t find a guidebook and weren’t sure what we were getting into. 

We hoped for solitude and we were not disappointed. While we heard occasional boat traffic, we passed only one or two other parties on foot each day. We had scenic campsites to ourselves and awoke to the eerie calls of loons each morning.

We followed the trail clockwise, starting with rocky terrain that humbled us. Recent rain made for slippery footing and each of us found ourselves on the ground at one point. As we continued, the trail rewarded us with panoramic views of Snowbank Lake and surrounding areas.

We definitely had to pay attention. Most of the trail was not marked and the footpath completely disappeared at times due to overgrowth. Cairns and cut logs were welcome sights confirming the correct path. There were also many beaver dam crossings (one almost claimed a shoe).

The southwestern part of the trail was less rocky but had a few fallen trees to navigate. The final miles along the Kekekabic Trail were well-maintained and mostly flat. For additional miles, there are loops to the west as well as a short loop in the south.

Resupply is not an option, as this trail is remote and only accessible by boat or foot. This is a shorter route, so resupply shouldn’t be needed.

Getting to the Snowbank Lake Trail

Nearest City: Ely, Minnesota (21 miles)
Trailhead: Kekekabic Trail West

The Snowbank Lake Trail is a loop. For a clockwise trip, head north from the trailhead. For a counterclockwise trip, head south across the road to begin on the Kekekabic Trail.

The Snowbank Lake / Kekekabic West trailhead (Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness entry point 74) is about 21 miles east of Ely, Minnesota, on US Forest Service roads. You can park overnight at the trailhead and some outfitters in Ely may provide shuttles for a fee.

The nearest airports are Duluth and Minneapolis. Ely is about 115 miles north of Duluth and 250 miles north of Minneapolis. Car rentals are available at both airports; shuttle service between Duluth and Ely may also be an option from local outfitters.

Lodging and camping are available near Ely and Duluth. We drove from Minneapolis the day before our entry date and camped at Bear Head Lake State Park (17 miles west of Ely).

When to Hike the Snowbank Lake Trail

Late spring (May-June) and late summer into early fall (August through September) are the best times to hike this trail.

Spring hikers can expect mud, wet conditions, and some snow well into May. Depending on the year, thaw / refreeze cycles may cause difficult travel on gravel roads.

The trail can be hiked in early summer but mosquitoes may take the joy out of it. Ticks are usually the worst in May and June but may be found anytime the temperatures are above freezing.

Depending on the year, trips in late summer and early fall could be impacted by wildfires.

We began our hike in mid-September 2020. Daytime temperatures reached the mid-50s Fahrenheit and some overnight temperatures dipped just above freezing. Fall colors were starting and bugs were not an issue.

It may be possible to hike later than September, but check the forecast and plan accordingly. Depending on the year, early October may see measurable snow and lakes could already be freezing.

Backpacking this route in winter is not advised due to deep snow and extreme temperatures. Some Forest Service roads and trailheads are not accessible in winter.

Snowbank Lake Trail Terrain 

The northern part of the trail is rocky and where you will encounter more strenuous climbs. The southern section is more forgiving and meanders through forested terrain. The trail crosses wetlands and over multiple beaver dams. There may be occasional fallen trees to navigate.

Snowbank Lake Trail Permits 

Permits are required to enter the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW). 

Overnight trips beginning May 1 to September 30 require quota permits. Quota permits have a fee and are sold first-come, first-served. They go on sale the third Wednesday of January each year.

Before reserving a quota permit, you’ll need a recreation.gov account and know where you will pick up your permit. Here is a list of permit issue stations. I recommend a station in Ely, but be sure to confirm hours as some may be closed on weekends.

To reserve a quote permit, go to the BWCAW webpage and click the “Explore available permits” button in the “Available Permits” section. 

Choose “Overnight Hike” in the filter dropdown, and the date you plan to start.

Scroll to the “Kekekabic Trail (west) /Snowbank (OH)” item. Choose your start date in the grid, click the “Book Now” button, and complete your reservation.

Overnight trips in the off-season (October 1 to April 30) require a free, self-issued permit. Complete the form at the trailhead kiosk, leave a copy in the dropbox, and carry the other copy with you.

Snowbank Lake Trail Logistics: Camping, Land Management, Navigation

Camping: Campsites are first-come, first-served and do not need to be shared with other parties. If a site is already occupied, backpackers may be willing to share. To minimize impact, a maximum of nine people can stay at campsites in the BWCAW. Campsite spurs are sometimes marked with a cairn and/or a wooden marker. When looking at maps of the Snowbank Lake loop, please note that some campsites may only be accessible by water. Follow LNT principles by trying to stay in established campsites, but if needed, dispersed / stealth camping is allowed for hikers (see page 7).

Land Management: Most of this trail passes through a wilderness area on US Forest Service land. There are no amenities at the trailhead. The trail is only accessible by foot or boat and chainsaws are not allowed in the BWCAW, so fallen trees may not be immediately removed after a storm. A short section in the south along the Kekekabic Trail passes through private property. Be sure to stay on trail through this section. 

Route Finding: I recommend a GPS track or map and compass. Except for the shared portion with the Kekekabic Trail, the footpath is not marked, can disappear due to overgrowth, and crosses multiple beaver dams. Be aware that the trail intersects with portages (which may or may not show up on certain maps) as well as other loops to the east and in the south.

Adding Miles: There are connecting loops for additional mileage options. Loops to the east navigate around Disappointment Lake or continue up Disappointment Mountain. There is also a short loop to Becoosin and Benezie Lakes near where the Snowbank Lake Trail meets the Kekekabic in the southeast.

Special Gear

I recommend a bug net, treated clothing, or other repellent. Ticks and an obnoxious number of mosquitos will be present, especially in late spring and early summer.

In recent summers, the Superior National Forest has issued orders requiring bear-proof containers. These orders are posted to their website and Facebook page when they’re required, so keep tabs before you head out.

Know Before You Go

Though it isn’t the most physically challenging route, I don’t necessarily recommended this route for beginners. The trail is mostly unmarked and disappears at times. There may be fallen trees to navigate if there have been recent storms.

Since permits are required for trips from May 1 to September 30, it also requires advance planning, though you don’t need to reserve campsites.

If hiking in the shoulder seasons, be sure to check the forecast; snow may be present well into May and lakes may start freezing over as early as October.

Bear-proof containers may be required if there has been increased black bear activity. Check the Superior National Forest website and Facebook page for updates.

Snowbank Lake Trail Resources

Snowbank Lake Trail Permits at recreation.gov

Friends of the Boundary Waters

Outfitters  

Superior National Forest

Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness

Snowbank Lake Trail and Backcountry Sites

Maps

Fisher map F-31

McKenzie map 9

Andrea Breitung lives in St. Paul, Minnesota, and is an avid year-round hiker, biker, and camper (yes, even in winter). She started backpacking in 2019 and more recently began dabbling in bikepacking. When she’s not outside, she’s reading, snuggling her dogs, and consuming unhealthy amounts of chocolate.

The post Snowbank Lake Trail appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

The Bear River Range Traverse is a challenging point-to-point backpacking route in Northern Utah that crosses the heart of the Mount Naomi Wilderness. It stitches together multiple on-trail and off-trail segments in the Cache National Forest and can be hiked in 2-4 days.

Region: Mountain West (Cache National Forest, Utah)
Length: 44 miles (2-4 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• This trail features significant elevation gain and loss, including scrambling to peaks near 10,000 feet
• Occasional sections are off-trail or feature faint trails
• Lack of water is a concern in the Bear River Range, requiring attention to the distance between sources

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Route options exist in the area, but exploring the Bear River Range as a multi-day adventure generally requires a car shuttle between trailheads
• Planning is required around water sources, especially on the southern section of the route

Season: Summer and fall
Average Elevation: ~8,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 16,500 feet

Hiking the Bear River Range Traverse

The Bear River Range Traverse is a 44-mile backpacking trail roughly following the crest of the Bear River Range through the Mount Naomi Wilderness. The Bear River Range is a subrange of the Wasatch in Northern Utah and Southern Idaho and features steep limestone peaks, mountain lakes, and sweeping drainages filled with pine and aspen forests. Much of the trail is above treeline and several major summits in the range are directly along the route, with others nearby as scrambly side trips. The range is home to several endemic species and Great Basin ecological diversity. This route will appeal to backpackers looking for a long weekend trip with big views and a sense of solitude along many of its segments, especially during late season. 

This route starts at the Spring Hollow Campground off Highway 89 in Logan Canyon. The route overlaps with the popular Crimson Trail, which highlights the canyon’s limestone walls. After several miles, the route descends and crosses the highway before it climbs to the main ridge and wilderness boundary. From there, hikers follow the steep ridgetop trail and summit Beirdneau Peak, entering the heart of the Mount Naomi Wilderness. Roughly following the ridge, scrambly side trails lead to Mounts Jardine and Elmer, less than 2 trail miles apart. The first reliable water isn’t until Tony Grove Lake, where a campground and trailhead access the wilderness area. From Tony Grove, it’s less than three miles to Naomi Peak, the range’s highest point at 9,979 feet. The most technical side trip on the route is to Mount Magog, a quick Class 3 summit prior to Naomi Peak (you can also just stay on the trail to Naomi). A large sinkhole sits on the ridge between the two peaks, one of numerous sinkholes and caves in the porous limestone of the Bear River Range. 

From Naomi Peak, the trail switches back down the west face of the range into High Creek Canyon, where a reliable stream flows down the drainage from picturesque High Creek Lake. Descending High Creek Canyon leads to another trailhead, and possible exit point via a car shuttle. This route climbs back up to the ridge via the North Fork of High Creek and crosses the Idaho border briefly at the top of the climb. The next section follows an undulating ridge and requires off-trail travel to the remote and seldom-visited Doubletop Mountain. The trail’s final descent rolls down Steam Mill drainage, where reliable water is found most of the year. The route ends at the Franklin Basin Trailhead, just down Logan Canyon from Beaver Mountain Ski Resort.

Getting to the Bear River Range Traverse

Nearest City: Logan, Utah (7 miles from Spring Hollow Campground, 28 miles from Franklin Basin Road)

Southern Terminus: Spring Hollow Campground

Northern Terminus: Franklin Basin Road

Logan sits 80 miles north of Salt Lake City, Utah, at the base of the Bear River Range. It’s 1 hour and 15 minutes from Salt Lake International Airport to Logan via I-15 North and Highway 89/91. Follow Highway 89 into Logan Canyon to access the trailhead termini described above. Numerous other entry and exit points to the area sit conveniently on or near Highway 89 or Highway 91 toward the Idaho border.

Shuttle: The simplest way to hike the Bear River Range Traverse is using a car shuttle between the trailheads. Reaching out to the local outdoor community in Logan is a good option if you don’t have two vehicles (also see: https://hitchwiki.org/en/Utah).

When to Hike the Bear River Range Traverse

This route is best hiked from June to October. Snow in the Mount Naomi Wilderness usually melts out by June and doesn’t return with consistency until November or December (October storms are fairly common, but are generally stand-alone events). July-September can see temperatures near 100 degrees and exposed climbs and ridge walks can bring heat-related challenges. June brings mosquitoes, but the aridity of the range keeps the numbers below considerable levels. Expect cold nights if attempting the route late in the season. 

Bear River Range Traverse Terrain

Much of the Bear River Range Traverse is above treeline and exposed to the Utah sun. The route is generally well-defined. Sections like Beirdneau Ridge, the scramble to Mount Magog, and the Doubletop Ridge feature off or faint trail travel or Class 3 scrambling. Side trips to summit Mount Jardine or Mount Elmer also require scrambling. This route stitches together a number of trails in the Mount Naomi Wilderness; maps or GPS are recommended to ensure correct trails are taken at junctions. Much of the existing signage in the area is aging.

Logistics: Land Designation, Water, Special Gear

Land Designation: The Bear River Range Traverse travels through the Cache National Forest and the Mount Naomi Wilderness. These areas are managed out of the Logan Ranger District, whose offices are at the mouth of Logan Canyon and where hikers can find more information about current conditions. Designated wilderness management emphasizes providing outstanding opportunities for solitude or a primitive and unconfined type of recreation. These qualities abound along this route. Hikers should be respectful of one another and of the sensitive natural resources in the range. Following Leave No Trace practices in campsite selection, wildlife encounters (the range is home to black bear, moose, marmots, pika, deer, elk, and rattlesnakes) and human waste disposal (catholes at least 6 inches deep, pack out toilet paper) is essential. Proper food storage and caution should be exercised. Pit toilets are available at Tony Grove Campground, High Creek Trailhead, and Franklin Basin Trailhead. No permits are required to hike in the Bear Rivers. Tony Grove Campground is a fee area, though the route described above merely passes through it.

Water: Water is not plentiful in the Bear River Range, but can be reliably found at Tony Grove Lake, High Creek Lake, flowing in High Creek Canyon, and along the Steam Mill drainage. The Logan River flows near the beginning of the route if you need to top off before hitting the trail. Treating water in the area is essential. Tony Grove Lake sits 22 miles into the route described here. Water may be found at Cottonwood Spring (17 miles into the route), but relying on this source without consulting the U.S. Forest Service is not recommended. The author of this guide has spent countless hours on desert trails in the Southwest, including the arid Southern California section of the Pacific Crest Trail. The southern section of this route is the only place the author has ever experienced dehydration while temperatures were in the high 90s. Following that experience, the author recommends 6 liters of water to reach Tony Grove Lake from the route start depending on itinerary and prior hydration (more water is recommended if dry camping on this section).

Special Gear: Sunscreen, UPF clothing, and electrolytes are highly recommended. Snow gear, such as an ice axe, may be required in early season travel. Consult the U.S. Forest Service Logan Ranger District for current conditions. 

Know Before You Go

Keep an eye on information from the U.S. Forest Service regarding closures and water availability. Fires are rare in the Bear River Range, but not unheard of. As with any alpine travel, consideration of snow levels and conditions are essential. The Bear River Range is not well-traveled in many areas, so make sure your plans are well-communicated with someone on the outside.

There is cell coverage on the summits overlooking Cache Valley (the author uses Verizon, but this is universal due to the size of the greater Logan population center). These locations include Naomi Peak, Doubletop Mountain, Mount Magog, and Beirdneau Peak.

Be prepared for faint trail navigation and off-trail travel in addition to Class 3 scrambling to reach locations like Mount Jardine, Mount Elmer, and Mount Magog. Be aware of wildlife while hiking as the Bear River Range Traverse travels through bear, moose, and rattlesnake habitat.

Due to remote sections, off-trail travel, a large water carry, and large amounts of elevation gain and loss, this route is not recommended for beginner backpackers.

Resources

Learn about wilderness designation

Regional bus travel (including Logan City and Salt Lake International Airport)

Logan Ranger District

Cache Trails Alliance

Caleb Meyer (he/him) is a hiker and conservation social science researcher based in Utah. In addition to countless hikes, backpacking trips and other generous times in the outdoors, Caleb hiked the Pacific Crest Trail in 2019 and the Colorado Trail in 2021. Outside of long-distance hiking, Caleb spends his time running, skiing, and working in public land management. Follow along on Instagram: @topohikes

The post Bear River Range Traverse appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

Region: Southwest (Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Utah)

Distance: 11-45 miles (route depending)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• The trail is undefined and often involves walking through water and over deep sand.
• This route involves careful attention to weather to avoid flash flood danger.
• Like many canyon ecosystems, Coyote Gulch requires attention to navigation to avoid accidentally venturing into side canyons.

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Coyote Gulch access lies down Hole-in-the-Rock Road, which is washboarded with possible washouts.
• Permits are required for Coyote Gulch in addition to several canyon-specific regulations. Though permits are currently free and either self-filled-out at the trailheads or picked up at the Escalante Interagency Visitor Center, keep an eye on the latest regulations involving trips in Coyote Gulch. 
• Some route variations require a shuttle between trailheads.
• You have numerous choices on how to approach Coyote Gulch.

Season: Spring / Fall

Elevation Gain: 1,000-2,000 feet

Max Elevation: 4,100 feet

Hiking Coyote Gulch

Coyote Gulch is a tributary canyon of the Escalante River in South-Central Utah running for slightly over 20 miles from the top (near Dry Fork) to the bottom where it meets the Canyon of the Escalante River. Several access points provide a choose-your-own-adventure experience depending on the mileage and challenge you’re looking for. The routes through Coyote Gulch described below travel through some of the finest canyon country ecosystems in Southern Utah, lush with vegetation and wildlife, natural bridges and arches, waterfalls, and cultural sites. These areas necessitate respect in traveling through commensurate with the awe Coyote Gulch views elicit given the fragile resources present.

This guide describes multiple routes to explore Coyote Gulch. Trailheads can be used to access Coyote Gulch as an out-and-back hike or using a shuttle. The longest possible variation would be doing an out-and-back hike from the Dry Fork Trailhead, which would total over 45-miles. The shortest way to access all the most notable features of the canyon is the technical Crack-in-the-Wall to Sneak Route Loop. Trailhead access points and route options are discussed below but Coyote Gulch’s access points and the larger area provide myriad opportunities to find the route that fits what you’re looking for. This guide is not exhaustive on the possible ways to link these access points. Desire to suffer, water levels, or possession of a packraft are all factors that might determine your trip in Coyote Gulch. The author has personally hiked the Crack-in-the-Wall to Sneak Route Loop (both directions, multiple times), the Dry Fork to Crack-in-the-Wall route, the Red Well to Crack-in-the-Wall route, and Hurricane Wash (on its own, out-and-back).

Main Canyon

The lower canyon, beginning near the confluence of Coyote Gulch and Hurricane Wash, involves mixed hiking through sand and the almost constantly flowing main branch of Coyote Gulch, which carved this oasis 900 feet into the sandstone layers above on its course toward the Escalante River. This mixed hiking descends farther into the canyon as the soaring heights of the walls above grow until you reach Jacob Hamblin Arch. The arch is massive and forms a large amphitheater on a bend in the canyon with several large campsites nearby. From there, you can scramble up the loose talus slopes underneath the arch or follow flowing water around the bend to continue down-canyon. The next feature you come across is Coyote Natural Bridge, which forms a massive doorway in the sandstone. Descending farther leads you through more sand, water, and jungles of tamarisk, Gambel’s oak, cottonwoods, willows, horsetail, and other riparian vegetation. 

As you near the Escalante River, Coyote Gulch snakes through large canyon-bottom boulder fields as the waterway cascades toward its terminus. Picturesque waterfalls and sweeping walls above beckon hikers to take their time through this section. This section is where it’s most visible that Coyote Gulch is a dynamic system. Shifting boulders may necessitate Class 3 scrambling to navigate around features. 

Near the bottom of Coyote Gulch, the waterway deepens, and reaching the river beyond requires the most permanent scramble of the primary canyon after the canyon-right turnoff to climb out via Crack-in-the-Wall (described below). The final scramble to the river is fairly obvious and traverses the rock face on canyon-right heading down-canyon. Reaching the river provides the reward of entering the larger Canyon of the Escalante and gazing up at Stevens Arch, one of the largest natural arches in the world. 

Dry Fork

At ~25-miles, Dry Fork to Crack-in-the-Wall is the longest route (not involving an out-and-back) to explore Coyote Gulch and starts at the Dry Fork Trailhead (the BLM recently installed an Upper Dry Fork Trailhead too, complete with a parking area and pit toilets; either can access Coyote Gulch). These trailheads lie approximately 25 miles down Hole-in-the-Rock Road. If you have additional time, the Dry Fork area is popular due to its access to several short slot canyons, including Peekaboo, Spooky, and Brimstone Canyons. Depending on how you access Coyote Gulch from the trailhead(s), you pass directly by the entrances to these side destinations. More information about the slot canyons can be found on the Bureau of Land Management’s website for the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. 

Beyond the slot canyon access, the Dry Fork trail continues into Coyote Gulch. It is aptly named as this part of the route is exposed hiking through deep sand. There is no water in the Dry Fork of Coyote Gulch (reliable water only becomes available after the confluence with Hurricane Wash) and this route is recommended if the goal is only to increase the mileage of your overall trip. Given its relative lack of scenery and length (compared to other routes described), the Dry Fork route remains an unpopular way to access Coyote Gulch. 

Red Well

The Red Well Trailhead sits approximately 30 miles down Hole-in-the-Rock Road in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument and provides access to Coyote Gulch after crossing the boundary into the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area (more information about land designations can be found below). Red Well is a much quicker way to access the main canyon than the previous route and is similar to Hurricane Wash in terrain and mileage. Reliable water becomes more available after the confluence with Hurricane Wash. The Red Well route is roughly 17 miles if exiting at Crack-in-the-Wall.

Hurricane Wash

Hurricane Wash is accessed from a large parking area directly on Hole-in-the-Rock Road in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument 3 miles beyond the turnoff to Red Well. This route is roughly 16 miles if exiting at Crack-in-the-Wall. Reliable water is not available until you enter the main canyon of Coyote Gulch ~5.5 miles from the trailhead. 

Crack-in-the-Wall to Sneak Route Loop

This ~10.5-mile loop from the Crack-in-the-Wall Trailhead along the 40-Mile Ridge spur road is increasing in popularity, though it requires technical consideration for navigating out of the canyon. This route begins at the trailhead and travels across the plateau above Coyote Gulch to Crack-in-the-Wall, a feature above the canyon near where it meets the Escalante River. The route to the canyon edge is well-defined and travels through deep sand. After reaching the Crack-in-the-Wall, scramble down the feature (a narrow fissure in the rock face) to the top of a large sand dune above the canyon. Navigating this feature may necessitate using a rope to lower packs as it is quite narrow and requires Class 3 scrambling. Beyond Crack-in-the-Wall, descend the 700-foot sand dune to Coyote Gulch. 

You enter the canyon near where it meets the Escalante River. From here, tag the river (requires more scrambling, described above) or continue up-canyon toward Jacob Hamblin Arch. Just before reaching the arch (canyon left, traveling up-canyon), you’ll be walking on a bench above the water and the Sneak Route will present itself. The Sneak Route involves a 45-degree friction climb out of the canyon, which may necessitate placing gear (most commonly a rope to act as a handline) as a fall on this Class 4 terrain could lead to a tumble down the sandstone grade back toward the canyon. Those unfamiliar with sandstone friction climbing might prefer to do this route in reverse to make placing a rope more straightforward and descending the Sneak Route rather than ascending it. For those comfortable with this kind of terrain and not placing a rope, it is much easier to climb up the Sneak Route than down. The National Park Service emphasizes that it does not maintain a rope on the Sneak Route and periodically removes them if left by Coyote Gulch hikers. After coming out of Coyote Gulch, you can navigate across the well-cairned plateau to the Water Tank Trailhead (and walk the road back to the Crack-in-the-Wall Trailhead) or cut across directly to the latter via a less-defined cut-off trail.

Getting to Coyote Gulch

Nearest City: Salt Lake City, Utah (359 miles from the Crack-in-the-Wall Trailhead via I-15).

Nearest Town: Escalante, Utah (~40 miles from the Crack-in-the-Wall Trailhead). 

From Salt Lake City, it’s 359 miles to the Crack-in-the-Wall Trailhead via I-15 (7-8 hour drive). This route takes you directly past Bryce Canyon National Park and travels through the town of Escalante. Hole-in-the-Rock Road provides all-access to Coyote Gulch and begins 6 miles east of Escalante along Highway 12. Take note of Escalante Outfitters (https://www.escalanteoutfitters.com) while you pass through town as they make arguably the best pizza in Utah and is a worthy stop after any trip down Hole-in-the-Rock Road. 

Google Maps Link for Coyote Gulch: https://goo.gl/maps/Q5Y2wdmvScsVmhtUA

Trailhead and notable location coordinates (note some trailheads have multiple names on various internet resources and are compiled here):

Upper Dry Fork Trailhead: 37.47902, -111.24152

Red Well Trailhead: 37.42873, -111.14847

Hurricane Wash Trailhead: 37.38254, -111.13310

Water Tank/Jacob Hamblin Arch/Sneak Route Trailhead: 37.39341, -111.04663

Crack-in-the-Wall/40-Mile Ridge Trailhead: 37.40456, -111.00580

Crack-in-the-Wall: 37.41920, -110.98513

Sneak Route: 37.42004, -111.04170

When to Hike Coyote Gulch

Coyote Gulch is best hiked in spring (March-May) and fall (September-November). These seasons allow for mild temperatures (highs often in the 70s-80s) with cool evenings typical of the Colorado Plateau. Hiking in summer requires dealing with extreme heat and winter brings the possibility of snow and subfreezing temperatures. Mosquitos may be present in riparian areas of the Colorado Plateau as late as May.

Coyote Gulch Terrain

Coyote Gulch is a riparian ecosystem full of wildlife (from deer to frogs) and vegetation and contains waterfalls and natural arches and bridges. It is a deep, wide canyon in most places but narrows at some points (into an amphitheater near Jacob Hamblin Arch and a boulder field near the Escalante River). Accessing Coyote Gulch from Dry Fork, Red Well, or Hurricane Wash necessitates navigating more exposed dry canyons to access the more lush lower canyon. Expect constant sand and wet feet in many places. Exiting (or entering) the canyon via Crack-in-the-Wall requires navigating a tight, scrambly feature and a 700-foot sandy incline, and exiting (or entering) via the Sneak Route requires a 45-degree friction climb and may necessitate placing a rope for those unfamiliar with the terrain. 

Logistics: Direction, Land Management, Water

Permits: Backpacking in Coyote Gulch currently requires a self-serve permit filled out at the trailhead(s) or picked up at the Escalante Interagency Visitor Center, which aids the National Park Service in managing recreation in the area. Make sure you check the National Park Service website for the latest information regarding Coyote Gulch regulations.

Land Designations: Coyote Gulch mostly lies within the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area and is managed by the National Park Service. Trailheads including Dry Fork, Red Well, Hurricane Wash, and Water Tank technically lie in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, which is managed by the Bureau of Land Management, but the National Park Service sets the regulations for hiking in Coyote Gulch. It is managed as wilderness (https://wilderness.net/learn-about-wilderness/default.php). There are currently no restrictions on campsite selection beyond camping away from water. Considering how human noise travels in the canyons is good practice in site selection. Large, defined campsites are frequent and camping in these well-used areas mitigates further resource impacts from creating new sites.

Water: Water is plentiful in lower Coyote Canyon which follows flowing water to the Escalante River. Reliable water can be found most anywhere down-canyon of the confluence with Hurricane Wash. Do not expect water in other parts of possible routes, though it may be found after rain in perennial streams (like Hurricane Wash) or in potholes and tenajas. All water must be treated given the popularity of the area for recreation and cattle-grazing. 

Human Waste: the National Park Service requires all human waste and toilet paper to be packed out of Coyote Gulch using a portable waste containment bag (or Wag Bag). These are widely available at most outfitters in Utah, including in the town of Escalante. This regulation exists because of concerns over human waste proliferation and water quality in Coyote Gulch. A pit toilet exists in Coyote Gulch (on canyon-left, down-canyon from Cliff Arch) for recreational use. A second pit toilet is present on many maps and internet sources near Jacob Hamblin Arch, but this toilet is no longer present. Pit toilets are present at the Dry Fork Trailheads and beyond the turn to 40-Mile Ridge Road at Dance Hall Rock. No pit toilets are present at the Water Tank, Crack-in-the-Wall, Red Well, or Hurricane Wash Trailheads.

Campfires: Campfires are not allowed in Coyote Gulch given the lack of available firewood.

Dogs: Dogs are not allowed in Coyote Gulch.

Cultural Sites: Coyote Gulch used to be inhabited by the Ancestral Puebloans and contains remnants of that habitation, including dwellings and rock art. These are nonrenewable resources and need to be treated with the utmost respect and reverence. 

Special Gear: Waste containment bags are essential if traveling overnight in order to pack out human waste. A rope may be desired to aid in navigating the Sneak Route or to lower packs at Crack-in-the-Wall. Breathable shoes (like trail running shoes) are likely the best bet for Coyote Gulch as much of the route travels through water and deep sand (a great combo). If temperatures are high during your trip, parts of the route (like Dry Fork or the plateau sections between the edge of the canyon and the Water Tank or Crack-in-the-Wall trailheads) might warrant a sun umbrella and attention to electrolytes, especially if you are traveling from a non-desert climate. 

Other Considerations: Coyote Gulch is seeing increasing popularity and attention by the internet, outdoor recreation community, and for management by the National Park Service. This necessitates cooperation, especially in areas like the Sneak Route and Crack-in-the-Wall, where multiple parties may be taking their time to carefully navigate features; or around Jacob Hamblin Arch, where camping is most popular and where noise travels very easily. Coyote Gulch is a serene place and is managed for qualities like solitude by the National Park Service. We need to work together to be considerate of one another while recreating in this place which, along with all U.S. public land, is owned collectively by all Americans and deeply meaningful to many.

Know Before You Go

Coyote Gulch has specific regulations regarding permits, human waste, campfires, and dogs. Make sure you are in the know on the latest regulations from the National Park Service before beginning your trip. Be aware of the technical aspects involved in some route options (especially the Sneak Route to Jacob Hamblin Arch) and take the appropriate precautions. 

As with any hike in canyon country, keep the weather in mind as flash floods are frequent in these ecosystems during rain events. The weather may also prevent access to Coyote Gulch as Hole-in-the-Rock Road is challenging even in dry conditions from frequent washboarding and washouts. Sedans can access some locations on Hole-in-the-Rock Road (Dry Fork and Hurricane Wash are usually good bets) but other locations like the Red Well, Water Tank, and Crack-in-the-Wall Trailheads require navigating things like washed-out cattle guards, washed out sections of road, and deep sand. A high-clearance all-wheel-drive vehicle is highly recommended for traveling to these locations. 

Hole-in-the-Rock Road is an ordeal to travel down and takes time. Do further research on the area. The vast Escalante District of the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area and the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument contain lifetimes of outdoor opportunity. A trip down the road to backpack Coyote Gulch can easily be combined with some car camping and a sense of adventure to visit destinations like Reflection Canyon or the road’s namesake, Hole-in-the-Rock.

Additional Resources

National Park Service Website: https://www.nps.gov/glca/planyourvisit/coyote-gulch.htm

Caleb Meyer (he/him) is a hiker and conservation social science researcher based in Utah. In addition to countless hikes, backpacking trips, and other generous times in the outdoors, Caleb hiked the Pacific Crest Trail in 2019 and the Colorado Trail in 2021. Outside of long-distance hiking, Caleb spends his time running, skiing, and working in public land management. Follow along on Instagram: @topohikes.

The post Coyote Gulch appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

Region: Deep South

Distance: 30 miles (2-4 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• 7,000 feet of total elevation gain SOBO; 8,200 feet NOBO
• Rocky and rooty terrain
• Steep sections and seasonal water sources

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate 

• Route is poorly marked in Shining Rock Wilderness
• Infrequent water sources, depending on the season
• Easily accessible trailheads

Season: Spring/Summer/Fall/Winter

Elevation Gain: 7,000 feet SOBO / 8,200 feet NOBO

Hiking the Art Loeb Trail

The Art Loeb Trail is a difficult point-to-point route in the Pisgah National Forest that takes hikers through a variety of terrain across the Blue Ridge Mountains. As is typical with hiking the Southern Appalachians, there are steep ascents and descents, offering spectacular views at the top but tough on the knees going down. We chose to hike this trail north-to-south as it was both logistically and physically easier than the alternative. 

The northernmost quarter of the trail, heading south, is a steady climb up toward Cold Mountain through the heavily wooded forest of the Shining Rock Wilderness. A spur trail can take you to the top of Cold Mountain if you wish to further explore the namesake of the popular book and movie. Continuing on the ALT, you will pass through The Narrows, a single-track, rhododendron-lined section of ridge walking that offers gorgeous overlooks. Exiting The Narrows, the trail widens and you enter Shining Rock Ledge, an area scattered with quartzite ranging from pebble-sized rocks underfoot to small boulders resting among the trees. At mile 6.8 is Shining Rock Gap and a junction with Old Butt Knob Trail, which you can take to see the actual Shining Rock itself. Near the end of this section, you’ll pass two water sources near each other, which are the last opportunity to get water if you plan on camping before Black Balsam. 

Continuing on, you’ll reach Flower Gap in less than half a mile, the first spot of near-continuous views for several miles. There are some campsites in this area that looked great but were all taken by the time we got there. We continued toward Ivestor Gap, an open, grassy gap with views on each side, where we set up camp for the night. Both the sunrise and sunset were absolutely incredible from this location. I highly recommend camping here. If you do want to keep moving down the trail, there are some sporadic campsites between here and Black Balsam that also offer stellar views.

After packing up the next morning at Ivestor Gap, we continued south along the ridge and summited Tennent Mountain, which has jaw-dropping 360-degree views of many well-known mountaintops in the region, including Clingmans Dome far off in the distance. The hike from Tennent Mountain to Black Balsam Knob is definitely one of my all-time favorite hiking experiences! I cannot stress this enough. An abundance of blueberry and blackberry bushes line the trail, offering a good opportunity for a morning snack, and the continuous views impress for miles. The berry bushes do entice bears to the area and there was evidence of their presence, though no bears were spotted during our hike. You will pass a water source in this area–the last one until Deep Gap Shelter about six miles ahead.

Ascending Black Balsam Knob we inadvertently took the Black Balsam Trail instead of the ALT, but after talking to a few people I learned that this is a common mistake that actually provides a better viewing experience than following the Art Loeb Trail to the top. We hung around Black Balsam for a bit and took in the scenery while trying to identify the mountains we spotted in the distance. If you reach Black Balsam after 8 in the morning on a weekend, expect it to be somewhat crowded. As you descend Black Balsam, after you descend the wooden stairs, veer right at the Mountains-to-Sea Trail junction to cross USFS 816 to stay on the Art Loeb Trail. A steep descent to the Blue Ridge Parkway provides some additional views and a chance to escape the crowds.

The southern half of the trail has a very different vibe than the sections before Black Balsam. The trail is rocky and rooty and the ascents and descents are steep, but peaks such as the one on Pilot Mountain offer magnificent views of the Blue Ridge Mountains at the top. In early September, we only came across three water sources between the spring past Tennent Mountain and the southern terminus at the Davidson River. The first of the two sources you’ll come across if doing a SOBO hike is just south of Deep Gap Shelter, along an old logging road. The second source is next to Butter Gap Shelter and the third is about a mile down the trail from there. After Butter Gap, there are many small climbs mixed with some smooth ridge running and old logging roads before reaching the final descent toward the southern terminus, where you’ll find a river to dip in to celebrate your completed thru-hike if the season’s right!

How to Get to the Art Loeb Trail

Nearest City: Brevard, North Carolina (42 miles from Camp Daniel Boone/northern terminus; 5 miles from Davidson River Campground/southern terminus)

Camp Daniel Boone / northern terminus (Google Map)

Davidson River Campground / southern terminus (Google Map)

No parking is allowed at the northern terminus at Camp Daniel Boone. We left our car at the southern terminus and had a friend drive us to the northern trailhead.

There are shuttles in the area that are a good option if you only have one car or are flying to the area and need a ride. If driving and you only have one car, depending on the direction you’re hiking, the shuttle could drive you to Camp Daniel Boone to begin a SOBO hike or pick you up there at the end if you’re hiking NOBO.

If you’re flying to North Carolina, your best bet is probably to fly into the Asheville airport (AVL) and take a shuttle to and from the trail. This airport is 22 minutes from the Davidson River Campground and 52 minutes from Camp Daniel Boone.

When to Hike the Art Loeb Trail

The ideal seasons for hiking the Art Loeb Trail are late spring, summer, and early fall. However, this hike could be easily managed in any season, including winter, with a reasonable amount of preparedness.

We hiked the trail over Labor Day weekend; the temperature was in the 70s during the day but varied a bit depending on the elevation. We camped at 5,700 feet elevation the first night and the low temperature was in the 30s, but conditions were warmer–50 degrees–the second night when we dropped to 3,200 feet. Mosquitoes weren’t as much of an issue as expected, but the water was scarce. Any season outside of the summer months would likely offer more abundant water sources.

Fall is a gorgeous time of year in North Carolina as the trees are changing colors, making October a perfect time to hike this trail. Keep in mind that temperatures may have already dropped below freezing at higher elevations by this point in the year.

If you are considering a winter hike of the Art Loeb Trail, be aware that it is not uncommon for the Blue Ridge Parkway to be closed during winter months when there are ice storms or periods of freezing weather.

2 night/3 day SOBO itinerary
Day 1: Camp Daniel Boone to Ivestor Gap (9 miles)
Day 2: Ivestor Gap to Butter Gap Shelter (13 miles)
Day 3: Butter Gap Shelter to Davidson River Campground (8 miles)

3 night/4 day NOBO itinerary
Day 1: Davidson River Campground to Butter Gap Shelter (8.5 miles)
Day 2: Butter Gap Shelter to Deep Gap Shelter (6 miles)
Day 3: Deep Gap Shelter to Flower Gap (8 miles)
Day 4: Flower Gap to Camp Daniel Boone (7 miles)

Art Loeb Trail Terrain

The Art Loeb Trail takes hikers over peaks and ridges, through forests and across balds as they cross some of the best-known mountains in North Carolina. The section from Flower Gap to Black Balsam Knob is exposed to the elements, so keep an eye on the weather forecast. Much of the southern half of the trail is heavy with rocks and roots, making the steep descents challenging and somewhat dangerous. Other sections are relatively smooth underfoot.

In September 2021, we had to traverse a landslide in the Shining Rock Wilderness, one of the most challenging obstacles we encountered on the trail.

Logistics: Direction, Land Management, Water

Art Loeb Trail Resupply Strategy  

Since this trail is only 30 miles and can be hiked in 2-4 days, it’s possible to complete the hike without needing a resupply. If a resupply is required, you would need a hitch or shuttle into Brevard, which could be up to an hour away or as close as 15 minutes, depending on your point along the trail.

Logistics 

Camping: Camping is free and first-come, first-served on the ALT. Many campsites lie along the trail, providing plenty of options for setting up camp. However, the lack of water sources limits your options if you wish to camp near water.

Permits: No permits are needed to hike or camp along this trail 

*Water: Water sources are plentiful between Camp Daniel Boone and Flower Gap. From SOBO mile 10 (just past Tennent Mountain) to the southern terminus at Davidson River Campground, water sources are sparse. In early September, there were only three water sources on the southern half of the trail (SOBO): one at Deep Gap Shelter (mile 15), one at Butter Gap Shelter (mile 21), and the third about one mile south of Butter Gap (mile 22).

Route Finding: A GPS map or map and compass are recommended. The trail is not marked in the Shining Rock Wilderness on the northern end of the trail or through Black Balsam. The trail runs along the ridge in these areas, so if you’re ever unsure stay along the ridgeline.

Special Gear: Bear canister required if camping in Shining Rock Wilderness.

Know Before You Go

This is a challenging trail with many steep ascents and rocky terrain. I would not recommend it for beginners.

• In the Shining Rock Wilderness, bear canisters are required and fires are not permitted.
• Water can be difficult to come by, especially along the southern half of the trail.
• The trail is not marked in the Shining Rock Wilderness on the northern end of the trail; a GPS map or map and compass are recommended.
• This trail is popular with day-hikers, especially on weekends.

Who was Art Loeb?: Yale grad, conservationist, avid hiker, Art Loeb and a hiking partner began piecing together trail sections between Davidson River Campground and Camp Daniel Boone. He died in 1968 at age 54, and the next year the trail was completed and named after him.

Additional Resources

USFS Trailhead Link and Info

National forests in North Carolina – Shining Rock Wilderness (usda.gov)
Shuttles

https://pvadventures.com/art-loeb-trail-shuttle/ https://wnctrailshuttle.com/art-loeb-trail/

https://mountainhighshuttles.com/

Laura Russell lives in Atlanta and enjoys going on outdoor adventures with her dog, Mallie, around the Southeast and beyond. She loves taking long road trips and has driven over 25,000 miles through 36 states, incorporating hiking into all of her travels. She started backpacking in 2020 and has many trails on the horizon. You can follow her adventures on Instagram @laura.russell_ 

The post Art Loeb Trail appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

Region: New England (White Mountain National Forest, New Hampshire)
Distance: 23 Miles, 2 days

Physical Difficulty: (Moderate)

• ~3,800 feet elevation gain 
• Unmarked herd path to summit of Owl’s Head
• Up to 15 stream and river crossings 

Logistical Difficulty: (Moderate) 

• No cell phone service
• Plentiful water sources (filtering recommended)
• Only one designated tent site (fee Memorial Day to Columbus/Indigenous Peoples’ Day)
• Fee to park at trailhead

Season: Fall, Summer
Elevation (average): 2,000-3,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: ~3,800 feet 

How to get to the Inner-Pemi Loop Trailhead

Nearest City: Lincoln, New Hampshire  (5 miles)

Parking is one of the benefits of the loop. The parking lot at Lincoln Woods Trailhead is five miles from Lincoln, directly off Interstate 93. There is a fee per night to park at the trailhead through a self-serve box at the trailhead. Although the parking lot is large, it can fill up quickly on weekends during peak season. There are bathroom facilities and the Lincoln Woods Visitor Center at the trailhead where you can buy last-minute supplies.

If you fly into Manchester or Boston, there are shuttle services offered through Concord Coach Lines to Lincoln.

Ali’s Rides (603) 348-3914 and Priority Transportation (603) 631-6242 are particularly reliable.

Hiking the Inner-Pemi Loop 

This loop is one of my favorite hikes in the White Mountains. I like it so much I did the loop two times in one summer and both times it was the perfect length and difficulty. The Inner-Pemi Loop has up to 15 water crossings and should not be attempted in high-water years or in late spring when snowmelt could make for treacherous conditions. The majority of this hike is located within the Pemigewasset Wilderness and additional regulations should be followed for camping in a wilderness location. There is a caretaker fee to camp at Thirteen Falls Tentsite during peak season (Memorial Day to Columbus/Indigenous Peoples’ Day) and camping is first come, first serve for parties under six people. Additional information can be found here.

The Inner-Pemi Loop starts and finishes on a heavily trafficked trail known as the Lincoln Woods Trail outside Lincoln, on the Kancamagus Highway. The majority of this loop is located on old railroad beds from the logging operations that took place in the Pemigewasset Wilderness in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The trails pass by the sites of five old logging camps and artifacts from the old logging operations can also be found along the trail. Please do not remove any artifacts from the sites. 

The first 3 miles of trail are heavily trafficked, wide, and flat. Upon crossing the second bridge, the trails are still easy to follow, but less maintained. Don’t be surprised if the trails are muddy and wet, even during fall. Shortly after the second bridge crossing bear left onto the Franconia Brook Trail, and about 1.7 miles later take another left onto the Lincoln Brook Trail. This is where the water crossings begin. There will be several crossings that will require either rock hopping, getting your feet wet, or both. 

As you near the herd path to Owl’s Head, the trail will be unavoidably wet. Prior to the herd path, there is one flat spot where people set up camp. There are also several spots near the trail at the junction with the Owl’s Head herd path where people camp. Make sure to follow wilderness camping regulations if you choose to camp along this stretch of trail.

The junction where the Owl’s Head herd path starts is marked by two cairns, one on the left and one on the right side of the trail. Owl’s Head, once a seldom-visited mountain, has become just as popular as many of the other peaks on the New Hampshire 4,000-footer list. Although the trail is unmaintained and considered a path, it is pretty easy to follow. The trail leads through the woods and then pops out onto a slide, which is where the majority of the elevation gain (1,450 feet in one mile) is achieved. After re-entering the trees, the trail continues at a steep pitch and using tree branches to pull yourself up is required in some spots. Eventually the trail levels out at the top of the ridge that leads to the summit of Owl’s Head. Bear left and follow the path for an additional quarter mile along the ridge, climbing over and going around several blowdowns, until you reach a small cairn marking the wooded summit. Although the summit is wooded, there are a few spots along the herd path where you can see up toward Franconia Ridge. 

Upon completing the climb to and from Owl’s Head, the remainder of this loop is less traveled and less maintained. Passing the cairns marking the herd path, you will begin the 3.5-mile trek deep into the Pemigewasset Wilderness. The trail becomes muddy with some mild climbs as you pass along the side of Owl’s Head and the banks of Lincoln Brook. There are a few spots where views of the Franconia Ridge can be seen through the trees. 

Eventually the trail descends toward Thirteen Falls Tentsite. There is a stream crossing as you reach the final stretch of the Lincoln Brook Trail that requires getting your feet wet as you cross Franconia Brook and rejoin the Franconia Brook Trail. Be aware that this crossing may be impassable during high water. Upon crossing Franconia Brook, bear left toward Thirteen Falls Tentsite. Bearing right, there are several beautiful waterfalls along the first stretch of the Franconia Brook Trail, heading back toward the Lincoln Woods Trail. The trail continues a gradual descent and eventually levels out, following old railroad beds where the railroad ties are still visible at times. The final section of the Franconia Brook Trail, prior to the junction with the Lincoln Brook Trail, flanks wetland that may spill over into the trail, making keeping your feet dry impossible. Once past this wetland the trail continues on a straight and level path until it meets back up with the Lincoln Woods Trail and thus the loop is complete.   

When to Hike the Inner-Pemi Loop

The Inner-Pemi Loop is best hiked after Memorial Day weekend through early-to-mid October. The best time is August to September to avoid the buggy season while still having longer days and warmer nights. I wouldn’t recommend hiking this loop in winter unless you are prepared with winter gear and prepared to break trail for several miles. Additionally, hiking this loop in early spring would mean contending with rotting monorails and higher water, along with damage to the trails by having to navigate around seasonal wet stretches and mud. 

Inner-Pemi Loop Terrain 

The majority of this loop is within a wilderness boundary and is heavily forested. There are several areas where the trails are muddy due to beaver dams or simply because of the overabundance of water in and around the trail corridor. The herd path to the summit of Owl’s Head is an unmaintained trail and has no trail markers. There is a section of this path on a slide, meaning that the trail is covered in scree and loose rock and is at a pitch that may require scrambling rather than hiking. The majority of this loop has minimal changes in elevation, with the majority concentrated in a few steep climbs. There are at least 15 water crossings ranging in difficulty from minimal (rock hoppable) to requiring fording (knee-high water on a 5’5” hiker). 

Logistics: Camping, Permits, Land Management

Camping and Permits: Camping at Thirteen Falls Tentsite requires a caretaker fee from Memorial Day to Columbus/Indigenous Peoples’ Day weekend. There are plenty of spots along the loop for stealth camping as long as you follow regulations for camping in a wilderness corridor. Camping at Thirteen Falls is on a first come, first serve basis for parties under six. 

Land Management: Almost the entirety of this loop is situated in a wilderness boundary and wilderness camping rules apply. 

Water: Water is plentiful along the entirety of the loop, but it should be filtered.  

Know Before You Go

This is a loop that shouldn’t be attempted by hikers who are not experienced in navigating in wilderness boundaries where there are fewer trail markers and the trails are less groomed. The herd path leading to the summit of Owl’s Head shouldn’t be attempted by those who are not able to navigate on unmarked herd paths. Additionally, this trail may be more difficult to navigate in wetter conditions, and the river crossings may be difficult during high water. 

Resources

White Mountain Guidebook & Maps
Wilderness Regulations 
4,000-Footers List
Mountain Forecast
Hike Safe Card 
New England Trail Conditions

The post Inner-Pemi Loop Trail appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

The Big SEKI Loop is a 155-mile loop in the High Sierra in California that can be modified in multiple ways. The route was created originally as an alternative to the John Muir Trail and can be hiked in 7-17 days.

Region: Pacific West (Sequoia-Kings Canyon National Park, California)

Distance: ~155 miles with options to modify (7-17 days) 

Physical Difficulty: Difficult 

• Steep climbs 
• Rugged, less maintained trail 
• Potential extreme weather

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Permits required; availability varies based on starting location 
• Loop trail with option to modify mileage
• Potential long food carries, with ability to resupply 

Season: Summer
Elevation (average): ~8,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: ~36,000 feet

Hiking the Big SEKI Loop 

The Big SEKI Loop was designed as an alternative to the popular John Muir Trail. Created by Amy and James of Doing Miles, using 58 miles of the JMT, a portion of the High Sierra Trail, and other less-known trails in Sequoia-Kings Canyon National Park, it covers some of the most spectacular views, and difficult climbs the park has to offer. When hiking the more popular established trails, signage, trail maintenance/markers, and water supply are rarely a concern. The less-traveled sections are full of bushwhacking while walking in ankle-deep water. Cairn finding is common heading up non-JMT passes, as are days without seeing other people. Regardless of what part of the trail, the climbs are often steep. Afternoon thunderstorms can be a fact of life. Snow and ice are possible in the earlier or later parts of the season, considering the trail reaches 13,100 feet elevation at Forester Pass. 

The loop can be started from inside the national park at Roads End, or from Onion Valley via Kearsarge Pass (adding 14 miles round trip), and can be traveled in either direction. Starting location/direction will influence permit logistics and resupply needs. I chose to start from Roads End, heading clockwise. This allowed me an easier-to-obtain permit and more options for modification if I needed to cut my hike short, and I was able to go with the flow of the majority of traffic on the JMT. Besides my extra miles to resupply I never had to leave the backcountry. 

The hike can be modified into a figure-8, or a northern and southern loop section, both loops being 80-90 miles. You can also choose your adventure regarding which pass to connect the loop. If you want to cut the loop in half, you can utilize the Bubbs Creek Trail, which runs almost directly across the center of the loop. This allows for flexibility in resupply options if you’d like to do shorter food carries/shorter mileage days/take on the adventure in sections. You can use Colby Pass for a shorter loop (~130 miles) or Elizabeth Pass (~155 miles) for the longer loop, both connecting back through Avalanche Pass and to Roads End. 

For logistical purposes, I’ll refer to things in the way I encountered them. Going clockwise, from Roads End, taking Elizabeth Pass, and back to Roads End.

The climb out of Roads End with a week’s worth of food was brutal, starting just as an afternoon storm rolled in.  Then the trail disappears … both off the map and in front of you. After Granite Pass, the only people I saw were NPS employees doing backcountry work. They asked if I was hiking the Big SEKI Loop or the Sierra High Route, as those are typically the only hikers they encountered. They also warned of an upcoming dry section. From here, the trail was short on switchbacks, and I was unable to gain much purchase. Water was also inaccessible until reaching the creek in Simpson Meadow.

It begins to flatten out in Simpson Meadow before reaching a junction, then quickly becomes overgrown on its way to join the JMT.  Water was flowing down the trail—the section I was warned “the trail is a creek.”

Once you connect with the JMT, the trail is more maintained and more traveled as it begins to climb the Golden Staircase heading for Mather Pass. This is followed by Pinchot, Glen, and Forester passes before leaving the JMT where it meets the High Sierra Trail (HST) at Wallace Creek. Sharing the trail with the HST, you descend into Junction Meadow, which is where you can shorten your trip by taking Colby Pass, or you can continue down the valley, following the river until Kern Hot Spring—a nice camping or lunch spot. You’ll find a cement tub—big enough for two if you’re friendly—with hot water piped in next to the raging Kern River. Note that this location burned in 2020 during the Rattlesnake fire. The privy, food storage lockers, and tub all survived thanks to the firefighters.

From Kern Hot Spring the trail quickly gains elevation toward Moraine Lake, or Upper Funston Meadow. If I was ready to camp, Moraine Lake would be my choice. Either direction, you end up back on the HST heading for Big Arroyo. The climb from Big Arroyo is slow and steady up toward Kaweah Gap, and Precipice Lake, made famous by Ansel Adams. The colors of this lake are incredible, and it offers a few rocky camping locations for those who need it.

For a less technical set-up, continue toward Hamilton Lakes. A popular backcountry destination, Hamilton Lakes has incredible scenery but limits the stay to one night. There is a privy located here, and be sure to tuck away trekking poles, sweaty clothing, and gear the deer may chew on.

Shortly after descending from Hamilton Lakes, the trail turns to leave the HST and follows the trail toward Elizabeth Pass. There is not much in the way of camp spots until you reach the turnoff for Tamarack Lake about 3.5 miles before Elizabeth Pass. Here is another area that sees much less trail work. It is often overgrown, and marked solely by cairns getting closer to the pass. Once over the pass, follow granite switchbacks into Deadman’s Canyon. This was possibly one of my favorite parts on the trail, and I shared it with no one.

Once out of the glaciated canyon, you arrive at the backcountry Roaring River Ranger Station. This is where the Colby Pass variation reconnects. From here the signage is pretty clear directing you to Avalanche Pass, another pass mostly marked by rock cairns. When descending, keep an eye out for some of the more impressive trail work I’ve ever seen in the Sierra.

Utilizing the Bubbs Creek Trail, the descent comes quickly until you are just miles from Roads End.

*At the time of this writing in fall 2021 there are wildfires in the park, adjacent to portions of the trail the loop utilizes. Further burn scars may overlap this loop as a result. 

Big SEKI Loop Permits

Permits are required for backcountry travel within Sequoia/Kings Canyon. The starting location impacts who issues your permit. They are $5 per person, and usually have a recreation/reservation fee of around $10. 

The reservations for permits open on a six-month rolling window. (Permits for July 25 open January 25). Whether you need one from the national park or the US Forest Service, both can be found on Recreation.gov. Permits from the national park side can be reserved six months to one week before the start of your hike. The permit will need to be picked up in person by the leader or designated alternate listed on the reservation, from the ranger station before the start of your hike.

You’ll be asked for an itinerary, though the park does not hold you to it, and you are allowed to modify when obtaining your permit. The website may require you to list the first night of camping to book your reservation. A limited number of walk-up permits may be issued to hikers without reservations on a first-come, first-served basis. 

From mid-May to late September, trailhead entries are quota-based. During non-quota season, permits are still obtained similarly, just without limits on the number of people starting on any given day. 

If you start from Roads End, going clockwise you would need a permit starting from Copper Creek. There is often availability for walk-ups. This trailhead is mostly used for people hiking this loop, or for hikers to access the Sierra High Route. 

If you want to go counterclockwise, you need a Bubbs Creek permit. This is much more coveted as it is a starting location for the Rae Lakes Loop, a popular backpacking loop in Kings Canyon. 

If you want to start from Onion Valley, you need a permit for Kearsarge Pass from the US Forest Service. 

How to Get to the Big SEKI Loop 

Nearest City to Western Trailhead: Fresno, California (90 miles) 

Nearest City to Eastern Trailhead: Independence, California (14 miles)

Trailhead / Roads End ($35 entry fee per car; entrance pass)

Trailhead / Onion Valley 

Since the loop can be accessed from either side of the Sierra Nevada, there are technically two trailheads. Onion Valley is a short drive off US Highway 395, while Roads End is a long and winding road that takes you deep into the park until you dead-end at the ranger station. You are allowed to park long-term at both locations without a fee. This makes it easy to park your car and simply hike back to it. If you prefer to not leave a car, public transportation can get you into Independence, and a hitch or shuttle can take you up to the campground at Onion Valley.

If heading for Roads End, follow State Route180 until it dead-ends at the ranger station. After picking up your permit, the trail begins just behind the ranger station, climbing upward toward Copper Creek. You have to reach Tent Meadow before you are allowed to set up camp, about 5 miles into the hike. The climb from Roads End feels practically straight up, from 5,000 feet to 11,000 feet over 11 miles. 

When to Hike the Big SEKI Loop 

Summer is the best time to hike the Big SEKI Loop. With passes often at or above 11,000 feet, snow and icy conditions are likely during shoulder season attempts. Late or early- season snowfall is possible. June may have lingering snow, July is the peak for wildflowers (and mosquitoes), and in August both flowers and bugs are declining. Fall foliage is possible to spot in September. It’s important to note the park has had fire closures and restrictions starting in mid to late summer for the past several years.

Summer in the Sierra Nevada generally means midday thunderstorms, so setting yourself up to be over passes early in your day will be the safest bet. Crowding can be a consideration on parts that the trail that share the hiker superhighway of the JMT/PCT, and there are often areas that restrict camping for the sake of restoration. It’s not a concern on less-traveled sections of this trail.

Big SEKI Loop Trail Terrain 

The sections of trail on the JMT are well-maintained, from aspen forests to granite staircases snaking through mountain passes. The burn scar in the Kern Valley is short but harsh. The climb from Copper Creek is steep and strenuous. Some of the passes are marked almost entirely by rock cairns, or the trail has been completely overgrown. Where it isn’t overgrown, it is likely washed out. Repairs for blowouts or downed bridges potentially take all hiking season or longer. Some water crossings have built-in structures to cross, others do not or they have been washed out. These crossings can be dangerous during high snow years or any time the water current is strong. The last few miles to a pass may be lacking water sources late in the season or in dry years. 

Big SEKI Loop Resupply Strategy 

It’s possible to do the trail in a single food carry depending on how fast you hike, and how much food you need to bring. One big caveat: it all needs to fit in a park-approved bear canister. If you want to resupply for your hike you have a few options. The two trailhead options lie roughly halfway through the loop, making it an obvious resupply. If you have a very kind friend, they might be willing to hike in to deliver your food. 

Mule-packing companies can bring a resupply to you on the trail, and there are businesses in Independence that will accept your mail drop. These companies sometimes offer rides to and from the trailhead. It is an additional 14 miles round trip from the trail to Onion Valley trailhead. It’s possible to send something general delivery mail to Independence, get a hitch into town, and back to the trailhead, and I was offered a ride into town quickly.

I would recommend sending a mail drop, as the town is small and doesn’t offer much in the way of grocery stores. Local options include a food mart and gas stations that carry typical hiker food as well as fuel. The closest town to get a full-sized chain grocery store resupply in would be Bishop, 40 miles away. 

If you start in Onion Valley, you could bribe someone to bring you a resupply at Roads End but logistically it might be easier to just double back using Bubbs Creek to create a figure 8, back to Onion Valley (and your car if you left it there) to resupply yourself. 

I resupplied with Mt. Williamson Motel, sending my bucket ahead. They have the option of staying overnight at the motel, or they can pick you up from the trailhead, drive you to the town where your mail is waiting, and drop you back off at Onion Valley later that evening. 

Logistics: Camping, Permits, Land Management, Water, Gear

Camping and Permits: You need a backcountry permit—issued from the Forest Service or the national park depending on point of entry—for the entirety of the trail. Your reservation is not the permit. The permit will be issued by the rangers the day before or the day of your hike. The cost is $5 per person, and often a recreation/reservation fee of $6-$10. 

You also need a free California CampFire permit if you plan to use your stove or have any open flame on the trail. These can be obtained online after watching a short video and taking a quiz. 

Camping along trails is permitted at established campsites 200 feet from the water. If they are established sites within 25-100 feet of water, Sequoia-Kings Canyon allows you to camp there. There are certain lakes or areas that have either night limit restrictions or restrict camping entirely for restoration. These are marked by signs on the trail and in those locations. It’s unlikely you’ll find an enjoyable campsite the last mile before a pass. 

What Type of Land: All of the Big SEKI Loop is national park land, with the exception being if you enter or resupply through Kearsarge Pass to Onion Valley.

Water: Water is plentiful on the sections of the JMT/PCT, and most of the HST. There are a few longer carries that the park service warned me about. It can be dry coming over Granite Basin after leaving Copper Creek. After leaving Dougherty Creek, it’s very dry until Simpson Meadow. You then follow a water source to the JMT. Once you leave the HST for either Elizabeth Pass or Colby Pass, it would be best to fill up. The water sources are often dry the last 3 miles to the pass and are sometimes dry for a while on the other side. I took Elizabeth Pass, and there was a 4-mile carry in July when I hiked. 

Special Gear: A bear canister is required. All of your food and scented items must fit inside. I utilized a sun umbrella and found it helpful on the exposed climbs. It also came in handy during the daily thunderstorms that occurred. Bring some form of rain gear, just in case. I enjoyed having water shoes for when the trail turned into a creek, or when having to cross one of the many river inlets. 

Know Before You Go

Wildlife: Bears are present on the trail, so adequate park-approved storage containers are a must. 

Weather: Be prepared for all weather conditions, and assume thunder and lightning storms will occur during summer afternoons.

Water Crossings: Always take the time to find appropriate crossings across creeks and rivers if there isn’t a secured bridge. 

Fire Season: Be aware of fire or smoke conditions for later summer hikes. 

Not for the Faint of Heart: This is not a trail I’d recommend for beginners or people uncomfortable with some wayfinding. It isn’t an easy stroll, and the trail when well maintained is steep, rugged, and difficult hiking. The less-maintained trail is steep, rugged, overgrown, eroded, or not well-marked. The parts that share popular trails are well-trafficked, creating a safety net. However, the lesser-known parts of the park you get to explore, I often saw no one, or sometimes more trail crew workers than fellow backpackers. This is probably good since in places the trail is very overgrown. I don’t want to sound discouraging for anyone who wishes to attempt the loop—it’s been one of my favorite backpacking trips to date. I just want to be transparent on what to anticipate. 

Plan to Pick Up Your Permit in Person: Your online reservation is not your permit; an official permit will be issued at the time of pickup. The afternoon before, or on the start date. Most offices close by 3 p.m. If you plan to pick up from Roads End the day before your hike, account for a lot of drive time.  Information regarding pickup procedures was sent to me a week or so before my start date.

Fees: Entry into national parks is $35 per car, in addition to your backcountry permit fee. Or free with an America the Beautiful Pass. Backcountry permit fees are paid at the time of reservation.

Big SEKI Loop Resources

National Park Service SEKI

Permits from NPS 

Permits from USFS (Onion Valley)

Mt Williamson Motel and Basecamp  

Eastern Sierra Transit for public transportation on the eastern side 

Molly Boyer (She/They) lives and recreates most often in California. She enjoys solo backpacking, as well as showing people the joy of backpacking for the first time. When not hiking they can likely be found swimming in a mountain lake, doing aerial arts, or just cuddling with their dogs. You can follow along for future outdoor adventures and some blasts from the past on Instagram @MountainsWithMolly 

The post Big SEKI (Sequoia/Kings Canyon) Loop appeared first on Backpacking Routes.