Region: Southwest (Zion National Park, Utah)
Distance: 35 miles (optional side trails for 5.4 additional miles) 

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• Two-mile section of trail is through sand
• Minimum distance hiked one day is ~12 miles 
• Several long water carries

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Permits are necessary
• Point-to-point, must shuttle or hitchhike
• Clearly marked trails

Season: Spring, Fall
Elevation (average): 6,500 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 4,885 feet (-6,670 feet)

Hiking the Zion Traverse Trail

This route crosses Zion National Park from the northwest to the southeast and showcases an amazing sampling of the park while avoiding the infamous national park crowds until the last three miles. The route is usually traveled from north to south and passes by Angels Landing near the end of the trail (hence the crowds). We started at Lee Pass Trailhead in the northwest corner of the park. This trailhead is not used as much as those along the scenic highway, and you will see very few people in this area of the park. 

The trail starts with a long descent through a wooded area and has some incredible overlooks of the mountains and Kolob Canyons. Next, you come to the river and follow it through the canyon until reaching your campsite for the evening. There is an optional side hike to Kolob Arch, which I recommend. This is a beautiful area where you are surrounded by the colorful red rock Zion is known for.

 The second day, you will continue through the canyon with some minor climbs and will end up in a cattle pasture on private land (they have an agreement with the national park). This sounds boring, but the views from this section were some of my favorites—lots of beautiful red mountains in every direction with happy cows grazing nearby! After this, you reach the section of trail through sand (great for working on those calf muscles). Here you get overlooks of rock-climbing areas. This section is very exposed and there is little shade. The trail continues into the center of the park where the landscape becomes more sparse. The second evening we camped alongside a canyon.

On day three, you pass through a dense forest, which was the only section of the trail I didn’t think had jaw-dropping beauty. However, the views of the afternoon made up for it as we reached the West Rim Trail and the 360-degree views of the heart of Zion. There are some great campsites here with amazing overlooks. 

On day four, we continued along the West Rim Trail with some ups and downs carved out from the rock on the mountain. This brings you to Angels Landing and MANY tourists, which can be a shock after seeing almost no one. After your optional detour to Angels Landing (permits required), continue down a paved trail of switchbacks to reach the shuttle on the scenic highway. This trail is a wonderful showcase of the beauty and diversity within Zion. 

Note: The Zion Traverse used to continue to East Zion, but a rockfall on the Weeping Rock Trail in August 2019 has made it impossible to continue the hike past the scenic drive. We asked some locals about when this trail could be reopened and the answers ranged from 10 to 40 years. Prior to the rockslide the trail was very unstable and getting approval to make a new trail in a national park is a very complicated process. I wouldn’t plan on being able to do the full Zion Traverse including East Zion for many more years.

Zion Traverse Permits

Zion National Park permits are found here.

We started looking at backcountry / camping permits in mid-September for any weekend in October (about 4-6 weeks out). There was only one weekend that still had available campsites. Camping in Zion is all reservation based, but there is some walk-in availability and some locations where you can choose your site when you arrive, though you still need to reserve in advance.

There are three main camping areas: Kolob Canyons, Wildcat Canyon, and West Rim. For Kolob Canyons, the ideal sites are 7, 8, 9, and 10 because staying here cuts down your mileage for the second day and allows you to take the short side trip to Kolob Arch. 

Wildcat Canyon is an at-large camping area, so you do not need to book a specific site. We found it a little challenging to find a good campsite in this area, so be sure to ask the rangers for advice. 

The West Rim campsites I would recommend are 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5. Campsites 1 and 2 are near a seasonal water source, we stayed at 2 and had an incredible view of the canyon.

For the Kolob Canyons and West Rim campsites, only half are available online, the other half are walk-ins. We booked sites online and “upgraded” to some walk-in sites when we picked up our permit. Personally, we were unwilling to risk not securing a permit. 

Be prepared for permit pickup to take 30-60 minutes. The backcountry office issues many different permits that must be picked up in person, so this was a much longer line than I have seen in other national parks. 

*Adding Angels Landing requires an additional permit which is fairly competitive. There are rangers stationed at the beginning of this hike checking permits at all times. You can learn more about the options for securing this permit here.

How to Get to the Zion Traverse

Closest Major City: Las Vegas, Nevada (150 miles)
Trailhead 1– Lee Pass Trailhead 
Trailhead 2– The Grotto (you cannot drive here, must take the free shuttle from the main visitor center)

If you do not live within driving distance, I recommend flying into Las Vegas and renting a car. Zion is about three hours from the airport and this gives you the chance to add side trips to Valley of Fire State Park, Bryce Canyon National Park, or explore other areas of Zion. You can take a shuttle from Las Vegas to Zion, but it can take seven hours and involves a layover in St. George. We landed in Las Vegas at 10 p.m. and stayed at a dispersed camping site about halfway and finished the drive in the morning. 

Because this hike is point-to-point, you must car shuttle, hire an outfitter, or hitchhike. We only had one rental car, so we hired an outfitter to shuttle us between the two trailheads. There were two options that we could find last fall, but now I see many other options. We used Red Rock Shuttle for a ride from Springdale to Lee Pass Trailhead departing at 9 a.m. The cost was $55 per person with a four-person minimum (including other parties) or they cancel. This is the lowest price I have seen.

We did meet two guys at Lee Pass Trailhead who hitchhiked. They said they got a ride to La Verkin, and then were able to pay someone about $40 to get a ride to the Lee Pass Trailhead. If you are flexible on time, this could be an acceptable option but it isn’t very reliable considering how out of the way the starting trailhead is from a town or another point of interest.

We parked our car at the main Zion National Park visitor center and walked about a mile to the outfitter to get on the shuttle. The parking at the outfitter was $20/day, but the Zion Visitor Center has free overnight parking for those with backcountry permits. It can be hard to get a parking spot at the visitor center during the busy season, so make sure to get there early.

Because this is a national park, there is an entrance fee. You can either buy a seven-day pass to Zion, use the America The Beautiful Pass, or buy an annual pass to Zion. Whatever option you choose, you must bring the pass with you on the shuttle. When you take the shuttle to Lee Pass Trailhead you are leaving the park and re-entering. We got a firm scolding for leaving our pass in our car. 

At the end of our hike, we took the free park shuttle from the Grotto Trailhead back to the visitor center and retrieved our car. We stayed one more night at the main park campground and split a group campsite with other backpackers we met on the trail. I would recommend spending some time driving the highway through East Zion after your hike; there are lots of pretty places to park and explore the washes. 

When to Hike the Zion Traverse Trail

The best time of year to hike this route is spring and fall. Winter can be too cold with the possibility of snow and guarantee of below-freezing temperatures at night. On the opposite side, summer is too warm for such an exposed trail with limited/seasonal water sources.

In my opinion, the best times would be April, May, September, or October. We hiked this trail the last weekend of October and experienced highs in the 50s-60s and overnight lows in the 20s. Crowding is not a big issue as this hike is permitted and there are many people who choose to just do a single night in the backcountry and hike out-and-back. There were only two other people doing the full route when we were. 

Zion Traverse Sample Itinerary

Day 1: 6.5 mi. Lee Pass Trailhead to Kolab Canyons site 10 

Day 2: 12.6 mi. Kolab Canyons site 10 to Wildcat Canyon

Day 3: 13 mi. Wildcat Canyon to West Rim site 2

Day 4: 4.4 mi. West Rim site 2 to The Grotto

For a sample two-day itinerary, you would only camp at Wildcat Canyon.

Zion Traverse Terrain

The trail goes back and forth between forested areas and exposed desert areas, with the primary terrain being exposed desert. The trail is very well-maintained and well-marked. The only difficulty in losing the trail would be after a snowfall. Sections of the West Rim Trail can be very muddy depending on the time of year. The entirety of the trail is well-developed and all intersections are well marked. With the GPX downloaded and this map you are more than prepared.

Zion Traverse Logistics

WAG Bag Requirement: You are required to use a WAG Bag within national park boundaries. However, this can be avoided pretty easily. There are pit toilets at the Hop Valley Trailhead and at the base of Angels Landing. Also, after passing through Wildcat Canyon there is a section of trail where you leave national park boundaries, meaning you can dig a cathole here. You should carry a WAG Bag just in case regardless.

Zion Traverse Water: There are three reliable spring water sources available that are evenly spaced out. Some of the other springs are seasonal. When picking up your permit from the backcountry office they will have detailed information about the springs. In addition, many of the shuttle companies will drop off a water cache at Hop Valley Trailhead for an additional fee or you can cache water yourself before starting. It is important to get updated information on the cyanotoxin that has been found in many creeks throughout Zion; at the time of this writing all creek and river water has been deemed unfilterable in Zion and you should avoid submerging your head in it. 

Know Before You Go

I would recommend securing permits before counting on doing this trail, unless you have the time and flexibility to go to the backcountry office with several different start dates. Also, because of the exposure on this trail, weather plays a factor. Completing this trail in the depth of summer heat or winter snow would not be recommended. The Zion NP area can see extremes in both directions. It’s important to realize that extreme and unpredicted weather can emerge in this topography: hail and thunderstorms, unexpected snow, and extreme heat and cold.

Resources

Permits 
National Park Service 
Map 

Abby Fincel resides in Missouri and is always trying to maximize her PTO to get in one more trip out West. She’s infamous to her coworkers for working a full day, flying out after work, and hitting the trail the next morning. She fell fully in love with backpacking after hiking the JMT in 2021 and spends many of her days working as a dentist daydreaming about her next outdoor adventure. When not hiking, she can be found training for marathons. She just completed her 10th marathon, in addition to running the Boston Marathon. Running and backpacking both satisfy her outdoor itch and endorphin addiction. 

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Region: New England (Connecticut, Massachusetts)

Length: 215 miles (14 to 20 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

Logistical Difficulty: Difficult

Season: Year-round
Highest Elevation: 1,617 feet
Lowest Elevation: 0 feet
Net Elevation Gain: 30,000 feet

Hiking the New England Trail

The New England Trail threads its way through heavily populated private land and preciously preserved public land from Long Island Sound in Connecticut north to Royalston Falls in Massachusetts and the terminus at the New Hampshire border. Most of the trail follows the rocky Metacomet Ridge, with expansive views of farmland and encroaching suburban housing developments below, and at times the trail skirts the edges of residential yards and follows paved roads. Despite that closeness to suburbia, there’s solitude in the woods, especially in winter, when I hiked most of the trail.

The woods tell the story of early New England: stone walls built by farmers, a graveyard for smallpox victims, and stone caves where men fighting with post-Revolutionary War insurrectionist Daniel Shays reportedly camped.

The 21^st century tells a different story: encroaching suburban neighborhoods and battles to secure the trail’s path where it passes through private land.

And that’s what makes thru-hiking the NET a challenge. The on-trail campsites are on public land or private land with landowners’ permission, and hikers are advised to leave the trail for overnight accommodations if not staying at a designated campsite.

The southern and northern trail sections have the most sites, with only three overnight sites in the wide gap in between. Observing the guidelines against stealth camping means paying attention to when you need to get off trail to sleep. Although the trail frequently crosses roads, many of them pass through suburban neighborhoods that don’t offer opportunities for resupply and lodging.

And be aware that if you choose to stealth camp, you may be pitching your tent in someone’s backyard.

Roadwalks are the bane of thru-hikers, and the NET has plenty of them. The Western Massachusetts Chapter of the Appalachian Mountain Club and the Connecticut Forest & Park Association, which together maintain the trail, are working to move those roadwalks into the woods and establish more campsites.

Lyme disease was first identified in Lyme, Connecticut, a town near the trail, and it’s now present in ticks all along the trail. It’s a good idea to check daily for ticks—even in winter—and treat your clothes with Permethrin to repel them.

Copperheads and timber rattlesnakes live along the trail in Connecticut and southern Massachusetts, although it’s rare to see one. They are considered endangered in both states.

How to Get to the New England Trail

The southern terminus on Long Island Sound in Guilford, Connecticut, is an easy reach using public transportation. The northern terminus in Royalston Falls has no public transportation and cell coverage is spotty. The New England Scenic Trail Hikers Facebook page has information on people willing to shuttle hikers in Connecticut and Massachusetts.

Northern Terminus

The trailhead parking in Royalston Falls is .7 miles from the northern terminus at the New Hampshire border. The TTOR Lean-to is near the terminus, so it’s possible for northbound thru-hikers to stay there after reaching the terminus or stay at the shelter to begin a southbound hike.

Although Uber and Lyft say they have drivers who go to the northern terminus, actually getting someone to drive you may be a different story.

Public transportation to the northern terminus is possible, but involves planning and several steps. Greyhound and Amtrak both stop at the John W. Olver Transit Center in Greenfield, Massachusetts, and from there a Franklin Regional Transit Authority bus goes to Orange, Massachusetts. An Uber or Lyft could be possible from Orange to the terminus at Royalston Falls, about a 16-mile ride.

Another possibility is taking the MBTA Commuter Rail from Boston to Fitchburg, Massachusetts, and setting up an Uber or Lyft to the northern terminus. It’s about 34 miles from Fitchburg to Royalston Falls.

Because of spotty cell reception at the northern terminus arranging an Uber or Lyft from there is dicey. If you’re heading north the Mt. Grace peak is a good spot to arrange a pickup at the northern terminus.

Southern Terminus

Getting to the southern terminus at Chittenden Park on Long Island Sound in Guilford is much easier.

Nearby New Haven, Connecticut, is a major rail and bus hub, and from New Haven the Shoreline East train runs to Guilford, where the NET passes through the station. Hikers taking the train to Guilford walk a short distance to the southern terminus, turn around, and begin their northbound hike, passing back through the train station.

The following public transportation options provide access to the southern terminus:

Amtrak Hartford Line: Commuter service from Springfield, Massachusetts, to New Haven. Amtrak trains from Burlington, Vermont, and Montreal, Canada, also stop along this line.

Amtrak: Nationwide rail service that has a stop in New Haven.

Metro-North: Rail service from Grand Central Terminal in New York City to New Haven.

Shoreline East: Train from New Haven to Old Saybrook, Connecticut, with a stop in Guilford.

Peter Pan: Bus service to New Haven from cities in Connecticut and Massachusetts.

Greyhound: Bus service to New Haven from cities across the country.

When to Hike the New England Trail

Spring: Late March through mid-May are good times for starting at Long Island Sound. The snow should be gone by then, although late March and April snowstorms are always possible in northern sections. Late May into June can be irritatingly buggy.

Summer: Hot, humid, and still buggy. A dry summer can make water supplies low and the hike difficult.

Fall: Cooler temperatures, no bugs, and the leaves are starting to change color by late September. September rains can replenish water supplies.

Winter: Snow is rare near the coast, more likely from northern Connecticut to the Massachusetts-New Hampshire border. Still, in southern Massachusetts and all of Connecticut it’s rare lately that snow on the ground lasts more than a week after a winter storm.

The New England Trail Terrain

The trail starts at sea level on Long Island Sound in Guilford, and follows roads north through Guilford for about 3 miles before climbing atop the Metacomet Ridge, whose craggy, reddish cliffs are made up of traprock, a volcanic basalt rock. Hikers climb up and down the mostly dry ridge, high above suburban housing developments and nearby cities, as it winds through Connecticut and southern Massachusetts.

Those ridgetop climbs and sweeping views from open cliffs are repeated along the trail through Connecticut: Trimountain; Beseck Mountain, where the trail passes close to the steep ridge cliff; Mount Higby, with views south to Long Island Sound and north to Mount Tom in southern Massachusetts; Chauncey Peak, which drops steeply to Crescent Lake on one side and a working quarry on the other; Lamentation Mountain; the Hanging Hills; and Ragged Mountain, popular with rock climbers.

Along the way Castle Craig in the Hanging Hills and Heublein Tower farther north provide good views of the surrounding land in Connecticut, and can be packed with day trippers.

Soon after entering Massachusetts hikers encounter the Westfield River, which can be crossed if the water is low. If the water is high a shuttle is the best way to cross the river. Go to the New England Scenic Trail Hikers Facebook page and search for “Westfield River shuttle” to find people who drive hikers across the river.

The trail then passes the Harold Akey Tentsite, the last established tentsite until the Erving State Forest shelter some 50 miles north. A short distance north the trail climbs East Mountain on switchbacks and continues along the mountain’s ridge before descending to state Route 202.

The next major climb is Mount Tom, 1,202 feet high. The trail continues through the Mount Tom Range, passing over Whiting Peak, Goat Peak, and Mount Nonotuck, before descending to Route 5 on the west side of the Connecticut River.

The river is too deep and wide to cross, and a roadwalk to cross the nearest bridge is about 10 miles. The trail starts well away from the river on the east side and getting to it from the river requires bushwhacking through private land, so finding a boat ride across the river might not be the best idea.

Many thru-hikers shuttle to Northampton, Massachusetts, or Hadley, Massachusetts, to rest and clean up at a hotel, and resupply for the rest of the hike.

The trail east of the river starts in Skinner State Park on Mountain Road in Hadley, and climbs to the Summit House, with restrooms and water, on Mount Holyoke. From there the trail passes over Mount Holyoke, Mount Hitchcock, Bare Mountain, Mount Norwottuck, and Long Mountain through the Mount Holyoke Range. The trail through the range is packed with panoramic views and up and down rock scrambling, with a steep drop and climb between Bare and Norwottuck mountains. The Notch Visitor Center between the two peaks has flush toilets and water. Norwottuck, at 1,106 feet, is the highest peak in the range.

After coming down from the Holyoke Range, the trail meanders gradually up and down before reaching the moderately flat Quabbin Reservoir watershed, the most isolated section of the trail. Four towns were abandoned to fill the reservoir that supplies water for Greater Boston, and the lands around Quabbin are empty and protected.

Farther north the trail climbs Stratton Mountain and Mount Grace, at 1,617 feet the highest peak on the trail, before ending at Royalston Falls and the New Hampshire border.

It’s possible to do 15- to 20-mile days on the trail, making a thru-hike in 14 to 20 days within reach. Because the trail crosses so many roads multi-day hikes with stops at overnight campsites can be combined with daylong section hikes.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water

Permits: No permits are needed to hike the New England Trail.

Camping: Some of the designated camping sites, such as the Richardson-Zlogar Cabin in Massachusetts, require reservations. Fires are not allowed at campsites in Connecticut, and stealth camping along the trail is discouraged. Trail maintainers are working to add more overnight sites.

The sites from south to north are: Godman Group Campsite, Cattails Shelter, Lamentation Mountain Primitive Tentsite, Windsor Locks Scouts Primitive Tentsite, Harold Akey Tentsite, Mt. Holyoke Outing Club Cabin, Wendell State Forest Lean-to, Richardson-Zlogar Cabin, Mt. Grace Lean-to, and TTOR Lean-to at Royalston Falls. Campsite details can be found here.

Campsites are nicely spaced between the southern terminus and Lamentation Mountain Primitive Tentsite and between the Wendell State Forest Lean-to and the TTOR Lean-to at Royalston Falls near the northern terminus. But the long gap between Lamentation Mountain and the Windsor Locks Tentsite may require getting off trail for the night. The same goes for the gap between the Connecticut River and the Wendell State Forest Lean-to.

The Richardson-Zlogar Cabin, with its wide open vista east to Mount Grace and Mount Monadnock, and a beautiful sunrise view, is the gem of the trail’s shelters. The cabin is locked and needs to be reserved online to get the lock code. It’s also possible, but not necessary, to reserve the tentsites as they rarely fill up.

Although the NET website lists the Mt. Holyoke Outing Club Cabin as an overnight site, the guidelines on picking up and returning a key make the cabin an impractical option.

The Windsor Locks tentsite is near Bradley International Airport, and planes taking off frequently passed noisily overhead while I camped there; the lights from one plane lit up my tent.

Water: Few of the campsites have natural water sources, and water can be scarce along the trail from Long Island Sound to the northern end of the Holyoke Range. Some overnight sites have water caches, but it’s best not to rely on them. Water is easier to find north of the Holyoke Range.

Route-finding: The trail is marked with blue blazes in Connecticut, white blazes through Massachusetts. M&M signs (Metacomet and Monadnock, the trail name in Massachusetts before it became the New England National Scenic Trail) are nailed to trees alongside white blazes in northern Massachusetts. Numerous side paths cross the NET, so paying attention to blazes is important. If your mind wanders in thought on trail like my does it’s easy to miss a turn blaze and head down a side path instead of staying on the NET. And keep in mind that sometimes at trail junctions the most heavily used path that lies ahead might not be the NET.

Rivers: The Westfield River in Massachusetts can be waded if the water is low. The roadwalk around the river crossing is 3.7 miles on busy roads, so it’s best to arrange a ride if the river is high. The Connecticut River in Massachusetts can be crossed by roadwalking 10.2 miles along high-speed, high-traffic roads. Some hikers arrange a ride to lodging in Northampton or Hadley after the trail reaches the western bank of the Connecticut, resupply, and resume walking the trail the next day on the eastern bank.

Parking: The NET website has an interactive map that shows parking areas along the trail, describes how many cars each spot fits, whether they’re lots or road shoulders, and provides directions to them.

Trail Angels: Some people along the trail help with rides, lodging, and water caches, but there isn’t a well-established system of hostels and shuttle drivers. Search the New England Scenic Trail Facebook page for people willing to shuttle hikers or post on the page that you’re looking for a ride.

Know Before You Go

On to Canada: It is possible to hike from Long Island Sound in Connecticut to Canada following the NET; the New Hampshire Metacomet & Monadnock Trail and the Monadnock-Sunapee Greenway in Southern New Hampshire; and the Cohos Trail in northern New Hampshire. Several options link the Greenway to the Cohos Trail, with information about them on the NET to Cohos Trail Facebook page.

North or South?: Which direction to hike can depend on the season or how you’re getting to and from the termini. If you’re starting in late winter or early spring setting off at Long Island Sound makes it less likely to encounter snow in the north. Starting in the north during the fall means hiking with the foliage as it changes color north to south.

Arranging transportation to the northern terminus is complicated, while southern terminus transportation is easy because the trail passes through a train station a short walk from the terminus. So hiking south means getting the complicated trip planning out of the way and scoring an easy ride at the end of your hike.

Spur Trail: A ~28-mile NET spur trail runs from near Broomstick Ledges in Guilford to the Connecticut River in Middletown, Connecticut. Once at the river, it’s necessary to backtrack to the main NET. The spur is considered part of the New England Trail, but is it part of a thru-hike? Many thru-hikers walk past the spur trail. The NET website, however, says hikers have to walk every mile of the trail to get an NET finisher patch.

Resupply: Meriden, Connecticut, and Hadley are good jumping-off points for lodging and resupply. Small restaurants and stores on or near the trail also provide food options, but north of Hadley lodging and food stores are far from the trail. The trail passes through the parking lot of Guida’s Restaurant on Route 66 between Beseck and Higby mountains in Connecticut, making it a favorite thru-hiker stop. The trail also passes through the small village of Tariffville, Connecticut, which has some restaurants.

Cell Reception: Cell phone reception is good from Long Island Sound through the northern end of the Holyoke Range. After that it’s good on peaks, but not reliable down low.

Trail Guides: Paper maps of the New England Trail—one for Connecticut, one for Massachusetts—are available here. The maps show trail section mileage but not elevation. The NET online interactive map gives information on camping, directions to trail parking, and section mileage. FarOut has an NET app.

Gun Ranges: Multiple gun ranges and an archery range are near or right next to the trail in Connecticut and Massachusetts.

One of 11: The New England Trail is one of 11 National Scenic Trails. The others are the Appalachian Trail, Arizona Trail, Continental Divide Trail, Florida Trail, Ice Age Trail, Natchez Trace, North Country Trail, Pacific Crest Trail, Pacific Northwest Trail, and Potomac Heritage Trail.

National Park Status: The New England Trail was granted national park status by the U.S. National Park Service in late 2023.

NET’s Origins: The New England Trail was designated a National Scenic Trail in 2009, and is comprised primarily of the historic Mattabesett, Menunkatuk, Metacomet, and Monadnock trails in Connecticut and Massachusetts. Those trail names are still used along sections of the NET.

New England Trail Resources

The New England Trail: Trail website with an interactive map showing campsites and parking. Maps of the trail through Connecticut and Massachusetts are also available.

FarOut: Mobile app of the NET available.

Amtrak

Shoreline East

Metro-North

Peter Pan bus

Greyhound bus

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Popular as a cycling route but also prime for backpacking, the Maah Daah Hey Trail is a 144-mile point-to-point route across the badlands and prairies of western North Dakota. It passes through Theodore Roosevelt National Park and features stark landscapes, abundant wildlife, and unique geological formations. 

Region: Plains Midwest (North Dakota)

Length: 144 miles (10-14 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• Summer and winter conditions tend to be extreme, best to hike in the shoulder seasons.  
• The trail is moderately graded with a moderate amount of climbing.
• Lots of wind and sun exposure with little shelter or shade.

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Water is scarce, water boxes can be used to cache ahead of time if desired.
• Both termini are remote though a shuttle service is available.
• Trail is well marked and maintained.
• Permit not required.

Season: Late spring, early or late summer, fall

Elevation: 1,978 – 2,940 feet
Total Elevation Change: (South to North) +16,149 feet, -16,710 feet

Hiking the Maah Daah Hey Trail

The Maah Daah Hey Trail winds through western North Dakota, connecting the north and south units of Theodore Roosevelt National Park. Well known in the mountain biking community as one of the nation’s premiere stretches of single track, it is still relatively unknown in the backpacking world. For those willing to travel to this remote location, manage potentially long water carries, and brave an often unforgiving landscape, this trail has a lot to offer for backpackers as well as those traveling by bike or horseback. 

The Maah Daah Hey Trail offers hikers a unique opportunity to travel through remote landscapes in nearly complete solitude while remaining on a well-maintained and well-marked trail. Rustic campgrounds are located roughly every 20 miles along the trail and have both potable water and latrines. The town of Medora is located one-third of the way along the trail and can serve as a resupply point. It also provides opportunities for food and recreation before or after your hike. 

Hikable in 10 to 14 days, the Maah Daah Hey Trail makes a good intermediate hike. Because of the scarce water, the amount of exposure, and the potentially extreme temperatures, I would not recommend this trail to beginners. For those with some experience, it is not particularly strenuous or demanding. 

How to get to the Maah Daah Hey Trail 

Nearest City: Dickinson, North Dakota (40 minutes)

Dickinson has the nearest airport and is a 40-minute drive from the closest town of Medora, around two hours from either terminus. Bismarck, ND, has a slightly larger airport and is an additional 1.5 hours away. 

Both termini, CCC Campground in the north and Burning Coal Vein campground in the south, are easily accessible on mostly paved roads. Other campgrounds and trailheads along the Maah Daah Hey are more difficult to reach. 

There is a shuttle service offered by Dakota Cyclery in Medora. As the name suggests, they primarily cater to mountain bikers but they are happy to accommodate hikers as well. Cost for a one-way shuttle from Medora (for up to four people) people is $250. Vehicles can be left at the shop. 

Keep in mind that if you plan on using the designated water boxes to cache water for yourself, caching will take between a half and a full day. 

When to Hike the Maah Daah Hey Trail

The wells at the campgrounds are turned on each year in May. It is not recommended that you hike when the wells are not in service, as they are the only reliable sources of water on trail. If you are hiking before Memorial Day, it would be a good idea to call ahead and make sure the water is on before you go. The best time to hike this trail is within relatively narrow windows in late spring or early fall. Winters are prohibitively harsh and the town of Medora mostly shuts down in the off-season. Summers get surprisingly hot in the Badlands: it is not uncommon for temperatures to reach 100 degrees Fahrenheit. 

If you choose to hike in the spring, be aware that when it rains the bentonite clay in the Badlands becomes a real mess. Things tend to dry out quickly and it is recommended that you refrain from tearing up the trail by waiting until things dry if it becomes too muddy. Ticks are often abundant in the spring but the species in the area do not carry Lyme disease. 

The Maah Daah Hey Trail Terrain 

Most hikers will average between 1,500 and 2,500 feet of elevation gain per day on this trail. There are some steep and extended climbs but the trail was built with bikes and horses in mind so it tends to be nicely graded. While often dry and dusty, the clay that makes up the Badland formations becomes sticky, slippery, and difficult to traverse when it does rain.

Maah Daah Hey Trail Logistics: Permits, Camping, Resupply and Water

Permits: A permit is not required to hike this trail and camping permits are only required within the Theodore Roosevelt National Park boundary. I did not camp within the park, but make sure you call ahead if you plan on setting up camp within national park boundaries.

Camping: Many people will choose to camp at the primitive campgrounds along the trail, as they are the only reliable sources of water beyond what you cache yourself. They are reasonably priced at $10 per night and are equipped with a hand pump for water and a pit toilet. For those who prefer dispersed camping, there are plenty of opportunities in the national grassland. Make sure to pay close attention to your map, however, as the trail does pass through private and state land where camping is prohibited. 

Resupply: Medora is located one-third of the way along the trail. It is about 1.5 miles into town along a paved bike path. Resupply options are fairly limited but there is a small general store and a few restaurants. Hours can be limited so you may want to call ahead. If you are utilizing the shuttle service, you also have the option to leave a box in your vehicle or at Dakota Cyclery. Again, just make sure they will be open when you plan to pick it up.  

Water: Procuring water is the most challenging aspect of the Maah Daah Hey Trail and requires that you have a plan before starting. If you are confident hiking 20 miles or more between water sources, the trail can be done with only a single water cache. The cache is easily accessible and on the way to the southern terminus, so there is really no reason not to utilize it.

If that distance is outside your comfort zone, you will need to cache more water ahead of time. There are designated water boxes provided for this purpose along the way. Make sure to label your water with your name and the latest possible date you would plan to use it. “Expired” water can sometimes be found in the cache boxes and is free for the taking, however, you should not rely on it. Some of the water boxes are very remote and seldom used. 

Waterbox Locations (Mile markers run south to north)

Besides the water caches, hand pumps at the campgrounds are the only other reliable source of drinking water. The water from the pump is technically potable but tends to be very cloudy. If you are picky about such things you might consider filtering it. There are a few stream and river crossings but they are all drainages that come from the Badlands, and we don’t recommend drinking from them even after filtering. They apparently have high mineral/metal content and tend to clog filters with sediment. They also aren’t conveniently located so I didn’t bother. I did filter out of a few cattle tanks near the north end of the trail, but they are inconsistent.  

Know Before You Go

Plentiful wildlife: Bison, wild horses (in TRNP), pronghorn, mule deer, prairie dogs, prairie rattlesnakes, and bull snakes can all be found along this trail. You will also encounter plenty of cattle grazing on the national grassland and private property. Be aware of your surroundings and give the wildlife plenty of space (especially the bison and rattlesnakes).  

Have a plan for drinking water! It is hard to overstate the importance of this as it is the most challenging aspect of the trail. If you plan on hiking before Memorial Day, call ahead and make sure the water pumps have been turned on. 

Check the water levels before attempting to cross the Little Missouri River: The trail crosses the Little Missouri twice (Sully Creek and Elkhorn). The water levels are typically fine for crossing but it can be impassable in the spring or after heavy rains. Check USGS or download RiverApp and search for “Little Missouri River (ND).  

Resources 

Dakota Cyclery – Shuttle Service

Guide Book

Trail Maps

The Maah Daah Hey Trail Association 

bikepacking.com 

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Region: New England (Maine)

Length: 99.4 miles (5 – 10 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

Season: Spring, summer, fall
Total Elevation Gain: ~15,000 feet
Maximum Elevation: 3,654 feet

Hiking the 100-Mile Wilderness

BPR editor Hugh Owen was 22 when he hiked the Appalachian Trail through the 100-Mile Wilderness in 1975 on his first long-distance backpacking trip, carrying close to 50 pounds on his back and barely enough food. He wore cotton clothes and was woefully short of warm layers.

He picked up a trail partner on his second day, and met maybe six other hikers in the Wilderness. It’s a trip that started his love for backpacking.

Hugh relied on youthful hubris during his hike, but the Wilderness is not to be taken lightly. It’s rugged in sections, and isolated. A food resupply is recommended for anyone taking more than 5 days to hike.

But the rewards are immense for those who prepare physically and mentally.

The northern section is filled with remote lakes. Farther south the trail crosses several peaks with stunning views of the lake-studded land below.

And at night the sky is ablaze with stars in an area designated as an International Dark Sky Park.

Starting at Abol Bridge and heading south the AT is relatively easy as it skirts the lakes. The three main climbs in the early section are over Rainbow Ledges and Nesuntabant and Little Boardman mountains.

The AT briefly follows the same path as the Great Circle Trail near Nahmakanta Lake.

The terrain becomes more challenging as it enters the White Cap Range, climbing steeply to White Cap Mountain (3,654 feet).

The view from White Cap takes in the lakes to the north, and for hikers coming from the south, their first view of Katahdin in the distance. The trail continues over Hay, West Peak, and Gulf Hagas mountains before descending to the West Branch of the Pleasant River.

The trail begins climbing again to cross the Barren-Chairback Range and its five peaks: Chairback, Columbus, Third, Fourth, and Barren. The views through the range are some of the best in the Wilderness.

The trail also passes East Chairback, West Chairback, and Cloud ponds, geographically known as tairns, bodies of water created by the scouring of glaciers.

The trail drops after Barren Mountain and continues on a mostly flat path to Monson. Water crossings can be difficult at Long Pond and Big and Little Wilson Streams. Near the Little Wilson Stream crossing the trail passes Little Wilson Falls, the highest waterfall on the AT in Maine.

The Wilderness ends at Maine Route 15, 3.5 miles north of Monson.

How to Get to the 100-Mile Wilderness

Access to the Wilderness is from Abol Bridge in Millinocket, Maine, in the north and from Maine Route 15 in Monson in the south. The Appalachian Trail Hostel & Outfitters in Millinocket and Shaw’s Hiker Hostel in Monson provide lodging and long-distance shuttles.

The nearest airport is Bangor International, about 72 miles from Millinocket and 56 miles from Monson.

Cyr Bus Line stops in Medway, about 11 miles from Millinocket, on its daily run between the Concord Coach Lines station at 1039 Union St. in Bangor and Caribou, Maine. The bus leaves from the station across the street from the airport at 5:30 p.m. daily, and arrives in Medway at 6:40 p.m. An Appalachian Trail Hostel shuttle can pick you up in Medway.

The hostel has a daily 9 a.m. shuttle to the Medway Cyr bus stop, where you can catch the 9:30 a.m. bus to Bangor.

The shuttles are primarily for overnight guests, but non-guests can make arrangements for one.

Concord Coach Lines travels to Bangor from Boston, Massachusetts; New York City; and multiple cities and towns in Maine and New Hampshire.

Greyhound also has a bus that runs to 360 Odlin Road in Bangor from Boston and New York City. The station is about 3 miles from the airport.

Cars can be parked long-term at Abol Bridge while hiking the Wilderness, and can be parked at Shaw’s for $1 a day.

When to Hike the 100-Mile Wilderness

Mid June to early July is a good weather window for early-season hiking, though bugs can be bothersome. Summer is hot, humid, and buggy, and best avoided. September after Labor Day and early October are mostly cool, and the foliage begins turning in late September. Youth groups often overwhelm campsites in the summer. Southbound Appalachian Trail hikers typically begin their trip from Katahdin through the Wilderness in June, and northbound thru-hikers begin trickling through in July. September brings a crush of northbound thru-hikers.

100-Mile Wilderness Terrain

The trail crosses streams that need to be forded, and some of the crossings can be difficult. Some hikers carry water shoes for water crossings; others wade through with shoes on and empty out the water on the opposite shoe.

The terrain varies from soft duff to rocks that can be slippery when wet.

White Cap Mountain is the highest peak at 3,654 feet.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water

Permits: No permits needed for the Wilderness, but one may be needed to hike Katahdin north of the Wilderness.

This is from the Baxter State Park website:

“All backpackers who enter or exit the Park via the A.T. need a permit. In order to stay at the Birches Long Distance Hiker Campsite, hikers should have completed at least 100 miles of the A.T. contiguous to the Park immediately prior to entering the Park. In other words, they should have hiked continuously northward—without leaving the A.T.—from Monson or a point farther south.”

Camping: Shelters and hardened tentsites are abundant along the Appalachian Trail, but be wary of shelter mice that are adept at getting into food. Campfires in the Wilderness are allowed only at shelters and designated campsites. Campsites and lean-tos designated on the Maine Appalachian Trail Club maps have privies, but no bear boxes. Dispersed camping is allowed on the trail except near Nahmakanta Lake.

Water: The trail passes many streams and ponds, and it’s a good idea to filter or purify water. Most shelters and campsites have reliable water sources.

Resupply, Shuttles, and Lodging

Shaw’s Hiker Hostel, Monson: Hearty breakfast, rooms, food drops, shuttles, hiker-friendly gear and food store

The Lakeshore House, Monson: Lodging, restaurant,

100 Mile Wilderness Adventures and Outfitters, Monson: Lodging, shuttle

Appalachian Trail Hostel & Outfitters, Millinocket: Rooms, shuttles, food drops, hiker friendly gear and food store

Whitehouse Landing Camps: Not a resupply stop, but a chance to sleep in a dry bed, wash clothes, and eat a home-cooked meal. Sound the horn once at a dock and the owner will cross Pemadumcook Lake in a boat when he has time.

Know Before You Go

The 100-Mile Wilderness is as wild as it gets in New England, but it’s not totally cut off from civilization. Logging roads pass through the forest, and hunting and fishing camps dot the many lakes.

The logging roads provide access to the Wilderness so it’s possible to resupply during a thru-hike or do a section hike. As logging has declined in the Wilderness conservation groups and the state of Maine have purchased land, and 330,000 acres of the Wilderness are now conserved forests.

Cell phone coverage is spotty, with the best coverage on peaks, so it’s a good idea to carry a satellite communicator.

Should you hike north or south? Hiking north gets the hardest section out of the way first; hiking south lets you ease into the trail and save the peaks for the end. Another possibility is to section hike using a shuttle.

100-Mile Wilderness Resources

Maine Appalachian Trail Club: The Appalachian Trail Guide for Maine can be purchased online at the MATC website. Maps 1-3 cover the 100-Mile Wilderness.

Appalachian Mountain Club: The club’s Moose Point Cabin, Gorman Chairback Lodge and Cabins, Little Lyford Lodge and Cabins, and Medishwa Lodge and Cabins are near or within the Wilderness, and provide good opportunities for day hiking.

Appalachian Trail Visitor Center, Monson

FarOut: The app has a guide for the Appalachian Trail in Maine.

Shaw’s Hiker Hostel

Appalachian Trail Hostel & Outfitters

Baxter State Park

atweather.org

BPR editor Hugh Owen hiked the 100-Mile Wilderness southbound in September 1975 as part of an Appalachian Trail hike through New England. BPR co-founder Maggie Slepian passed through the Wilderness at the end of her northbound AT thru-hike much later.

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The Ozark Highlands Trail is a 254-mile point-to-point backpacking route in Arkansas. It is a blazed trail through the northern part of the state with multiple stream crossings. A full thru-hike is considered to be 165 miles, with 254 miles being the full proposed (and possible) route.

Region: Middle South (Arkansas)
Length: 165 – 254 miles (10-18 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• Creek and river crossings ebb and flow with the weather
• The trail is moderately graded
• The climbs and descents are short

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• No permits needed
• Both termini are hard to access
• Resupplies can be tough

Season: Fall, Winter, Spring

Hiking the Ozark Highlands Trail

The Ozark Highlands Trail is a route through northern Arkansas that follows the spine of the Ozark Mountains from east to west.

The trail is white-blazed along most of its route and is fairly straightforward to follow. There is also a FarOut guide. Compared with the Ouachita Trail, there are not as many signs or markers, but for the first chunk, every mile is signed.

The trees are deciduous with small groups of pine and the weather is temperate and mild. On my thru-hike I saw deer, elk, and porcupine. Locals also spoke of small black bears in the Ozarks. It is a peaceful environment that is far removed from any towns. This also makes the resupply strategy more difficult than comparable trails.

One big factor on the Ozark Highlands Trail is the water. There are numerous crossings every day, an abundance of waterfalls, and little need to have more than a 2-liter capacity. I thru-hiked this trail in February, which is one of the wetter times of the year, but water seems to flow year-round based on many of the online comments and water sources on maps.

The Ozark Highlands Trail is not finished, and there are two distinct sections with the opportunity to connect them as I did. The first 165 miles to the Buffalo River at Woolum are largely considered an entire thru-hike, but there is a decent section for 40 more miles to Dillards Ferry at Highway 14 that I was able to easily complete. From there, it was a 20-mile slog of bushwhacking, looking for a trail, and following gravel roads to get to the Sylamore section of the trail. The east end of the trail was beautiful and my 254-mile route ended at Matney Knob Trailhead.

How to Get to the Ozark Highlands Trail

Western Terminus: Fort Smith State Park, Arkansas
Closest City: Fort Smith (1 hour)

Eastern Terminus: Matney Knob Trailhead, Arkansas, or Woolum Campground, Arkansas
Closest City: Mountain Home, Arkansas (20 minutes)

I hiked this trail eastbound and was able to get a ride to the trailhead from a friend, but there is a very active Facebook group and numerous resources for getting to the trail on the Ozark Highlands Trail Association website.

Ozark Highlands Trail Western Terminus

From Fort Smith, Arkansas, it’s a 40-minute drive to Lake Fort Smith State Park

Ozark Highlands Trail Eastern Terminus

The trail ends abruptly at either Woolum or Matney Knob Trailhead (depending on where you conclude your thru-hike). Mountain Home is the largest city of any kind, but transportation can be tricky. I was able to hitch across the state to Fayetteville but there are also some bus options and the opportunity to rent a car to get to a major city. I found hitching to be fairly simple in Arkansas.

When to Hike the Ozark Highlands Trail / Which Direction

The Ozark Highlands Trail fits snuggly into the shoulder seasons when the weather is tamer in Arkansas and without the sticky heat and humidity that the region experiences during the summer. A generally equal split hike the trail in the early spring and the fall, with the season lasting a few months twice a year.

The trail can be hiked year-round, but a number of factors ranging from bugs to floods to cold weather make the February to April and October to November timeframes the most popular. In late February it snowed on me and the rivers were swollen after a rainstorm. The weather can be inclement, and despite the lack of true elevation the terrain can be rugged.

Most thru-hikers start at Lake Fort Smith State Park and travel eastbound because it is fairly easy to get a ride to and makes the logistics work a little better. The two possible termini on the east side are both remote and difficult.

Ozark Highlands Trail Terrain

The Ozark Highlands Trail is very much under the canopy of deciduous trees, but there are a number of views as the oscillating elevation brings you up and down numerous mountains. The trail is rocky with mud, waterfalls, and numerous stream crossings. Compared with the drier Ouachita Trail to the south, the Ozark Highlands Trail has a lot more dependable water.

Ozark Highlands Trail Resupply

Resupply can be complicated on the OHT. There are no major towns nearby, and the roads cutting through the mountains are lightly traveled. But with a couple of longer carries the trail can be thru-hiked without going hungry.

Resupply 1, Ozone, Arkansas
Mile 68

A tiny Burger Barn that accepts thru-hiker packages is only 2 miles off the trail. The other option at this crossing of Highway 21 is Clarksville. If you can manage the long carry from here to Woolum, the simplest way to thru-hike the Ozark Highlands Trail is to only resupply at this location.

Resupply 2, Highway 65
Mile 205

If you are hiking the full (proposed) length of the trail, Highway 65 is well-traveled and can provide access to a Dollar General in St. Joe. It is a fairly easy hitch and is the only real relevant resupply option for the second half of the lesser-traveled section of the trail.

Logistics: Camping and Water

Camping: Camping is dispersed and plentiful on the OHT. There are a number of flat spots, and FarOut has a number of waypoints marked as potential spots to set up a tent.

Water: There is so much water on the Ozark Highlands Trail that flooding can be an issue. Especially in the Hurricane Creek section, the water crossings can swell substantially when it rains. Keep an eye on the weather and the current levels of the rivers and creeks.

Ozark Highlands Trail: Know Before You Go

Weather: Shoulder season hiking comes with variable weather. I experienced rain, snow, and sunshine in late February. The weather was in the 70s one day and dipped below 20 the next. Packing the gear to weather any potential conditions is highly recommended.

Ozark Highlands Trail Resources

Ozark Highlands Trail Association

Ozark Highlands Trail Guide – Book

Ozark Highland Trail Facebook

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The Old Loggers Path is a moderate 27-mile loop hike in northern Pennsylvania. The loop traverses a primarily wooded area, passing waterfalls and vistas along rolling hills, and can be hiked in 2-3 days. 

Region: Mid-Atlantic (Loyalsock State Forest, Pennsylvania)
Length: 27 Miles (2-3 Days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• Some moderate inclines and declines
• Pleasant Stream might pose a challenge to cross depending on recent rainfall and weather
• Plenty of reliable water sources (some seasonal streams may not be available year-round)

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

• Loop hike with parking at trailhead
• Well-maintained trail with orange blazes
• Dispersed camping allowed throughout with two lean-tos available on a first-come, first-served basis
• Spotty cell phone reception (including from the forest entry to the trailhead parking)
• No permits required

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Total Elevation Gain: 3,727 feet

Hiking the Old Loggers Path

Permits: Not required 

The Old Loggers Path is a lovely 27-mile loop hike that can be completed in either a clockwise or counterclockwise direction over 2-3 days. Our group of 5 hikers (a mix of beginner and moderate skill levels) enjoyed the wooded path, beautiful vistas, creek crossings, and inclines and descents along the way. The trail is very well-maintained and blazed in orange with signage at key intervals, especially when crossing logging roads. 

Our first day took us about 10 miles from the trailhead at Masten Road and Pleasant Stream Road to the creek crossing at Pleasant Stream. There were two notable climbs to Sprout Point Vista (just off trail) and Sharp Top Vista. There is a lean-to near Sprout Point Vista, available on a first-come basis for camping, but no convenient water source. Sharp Top Vista offers impressive views and an excellent opportunity for a snack break. The trail continues downhill from Sharp Top to Pleasant Stream. There are established sites with spots for several tents available on both sides of Pleasant Stream. Depending on the amount of recent rain the stream crossing should be fairly easily, with crossing options both up and down stream. During our crossing, the water was about knee-deep in some spots (for this 5-foot, 4-inch hiker), but not very rapid. Farther up and down stream there were additional crossing options.  

Day two took our group another 10ish miles from Pleasant Stream, up a climb to Sullivan Mountain, then back down (steep at times) to follow Rock Run Stream. The Sullivan Mountain lookout offered another stunning view of the valley, although be sure to follow the trail closely back into the woods as the turn off the road can be easily overlooked. There are many dispersed sites along the trail as you follow Rock Run, in addition to the first-come, first-served Doe Run Shelter (about mile 17). Our group chose a site with waterfall views where Hawk Run meets Rock Run. This site was a bit of a squeeze for three tents, but doable.

Day three was the final seven miles back to the trailhead. The majority of the day was uphill until the final two-mile descent back to the parking lot. Neither of these were especially steep.

Overall, the Old Loggers Path is an excellent loop hike with moderate terrain and convenient logistics that make for a wonderful (long) weekend trip. Be sure to sign the logbooks along the way to help track trail utilization. 

Getting to the Old Loggers Path

Nearest City: Williamsport, Pennsylvania (34 miles south of the trailhead)

Trailhead: Near the Masten Camping Area at the intersection of Masten Road and Pleasant Stream Road. The trailhead is well-marked and there is ample parking space. Masten Camping Area provides some picnic tables and fireplace. Map it here.

When to Hike the Old Loggers Path

Old Loggers Path is best hiked from spring to fall, but can be hiked in winter too. As long as the state forest roads are passable, the trail is accessible. Our group hiked it April 30 to May 2, 2021, and experienced a range of temperatures (sleeting/hail and 30 degrees at night, to sunny and 60 during the day). Bugs will be bothersome in the spring, especially after rainfall, and in the summer be especially aware of rattlesnakes. 

One-Day Itinerary: With an early start and a light pack, this loop can be completed in one day. At least one trail runner passed us doing just this. 

Two-Day Itinerary: Start in either direction and camp at a dry site at Sullivan Mountain (13-14 miles per day).

Three-Day Itinerary: Start clockwise from trailhead at Masten Campground to Pleasant Stream (10 miles). Pleasant Stream to Rock Run Stream (10-11 miles). Rock Run Stream to Masten Campground trailhead (6-7 miles). 

Old Loggers Path Terrain

Old Loggers Path traverses the Loyalsock State Forest and is mostly wooded. There are several vistas overlooking the surrounding rolling hills and valleys in addition to beautiful streams and waterfalls. The trail is very well-maintained with orange blazes. 

Old Loggers Path Logistics: Resupply, Water, Land Management

Logistics are fairly straightforward for this trip. You will need a car to get to the trailhead, but will return to it at the trailhead upon completion of the loop. Expect minimal cell phone coverage once you enter the state forest. 

Resupply Strategy: None needed. There are no convenient access points into any town, nor are they necessary due to the mileage and loop nature of the trail. Plan to carry what you will need for your entire journey. 

Land Type: The Old Loggers Path is entirely contained in the Loyalsock State Forest. There are no fees associated to access the land or trailhead, and camping is readily available. It is on the native land of the Susquehannock people. 

Water Sources: There is year-round reliable water at Pleasant Stream (mile 0, trailhead), Pleasant Stream (mile 10), all along Rock Run (~20) and numerous seasonal streams throughout the trail. Water is typically plentiful with no long carries. 

Know Before You Go

Note that fires are prohibited (with a “soft ban”) in Pennsylvania state forests from March 1 to May 25 due to fire danger. You may receive verbal permission to have a fire during this time frame if weather conditions permit by calling the state forest office at 570-946-4049 prior to your trip. 

Resources: 

• Loyalsock State Forest
• State Forest Hiking Trails
• Old Loggers Path Guide and Map – PAHikes

Rachel began as a weekend warrior backpacker and has since evolved into a 2020 PCT NOGOer and a successful 2021 Colorado Trail thru-hiker. Currently she works full time in Corporate America, eagerly awaiting her next outdoor adventure.

The post Old Loggers Path appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

Region: Mountain West (Colorado)

Distance: ~28-40 miles, depending on peaks (2-4 days) 

Physical Difficulty: Moderate  

• Well-maintained trail
• Moderate climbing into the basin
• High elevation

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

• No permits required
• Out-and-back with easy parking
• Plentiful water

Season: Summer
Elevation (average): ~9,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: ~9,500 feet round-trip (not including 14ers)

Recommended gear for a high-elevation trip

Hiking Purgatory Creek to Chicago Basin

This is a popular trail for people looking to bag the three 14,000-foot peaks in Chicago Basin and to experience some of the most aesthetically pleasing routes in the San Juans. Many hikers I chatted with had plans to base camp in the basin and hike the three peaks over the course of several days.

Another option to access Chicago Basin is via the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, which brings the approach down to six miles. The train was not running in the summer of 2020 when I hiked this trail, so I began the approach from Purgatory Flats Trailhead (link below).

The hike starts out wooded during the ~4.5 miles down to the Animas River, switchbacking on stock-grade trail. I picked up the Animas River Trail at the river, then hiked around five miles of mostly flat terrain until connecting with the Needle Creek Trail.

This section climbed steadily through a canyon with several creek crossings and bursts of wildflowers. It took me about 2.5 hours to break out into Chicago Basin, where I found plenty of other hikers and plentiful dispersed camping.

I continued another half-mile up to 11,000 feet, setting up camp inside the signed camping boundary. Hiking from the trailhead to base camp took me seven hours. Overall the trail is relatively mellow and very easy to follow, though the climb up to Chicago Basin felt challenging due to the elevation.

I was hiking by 6:30 to bag Windom, and made it to the summit by 8:45. I was back at camp at 10:30 a.m. to pack up, and at the bottom of the canyon around 1 p.m. I made it to the junction of Purgatory Creek Trail by 3 p.m, and in another two hours I was back at the truck. I didn’t track specific mileages, but I was hiking around 2.5 miles per hour on average, and heading down was certainly easier than coming up to the Basin, minus the final climb back to the Purgatory Creek Trailhead.

How to Get to Purgatory Creek Trail

Nearest Town: Durango, Colorado (35 minutes, map it here)
Purgatory Flats Trailhead Map

This trail profile references the full hike (without the train ride), which means starting at Purgatory Flats Trailhead across from Purgatory Resort. This is a quick 30-minute drive from Durango heading north on Highway 550.

The trailhead is tucked off the road near a fishing pond across from the resort off 550. It’s easy to find and there is plenty of parking.

When to Hike Purgatory Creek to Chicago Basin

Hiking any of the Colorado 14ers, or even to the base camp between 10,500 and 11,000 feet is best done in mid-to-late summer. I hiked through here in mid-August and the weather was perfect. I didn’t deal with any snow on Windom, and water was plentiful.

As with any of these high-elevation routes, hiking earlier or later in the summer means clinging snow or early-season snow. With the right equipment this is fine, but be prepared for any and all inclement weather.

The weather was in the mid-70s and sunny during the day and dropped to the low 30s overnight. I wore my shorts, base layer, and light rain jacket to climb Windom in the morning.

Bagging the Needles 14ers

Many hikers access Chicago Basin to bag to the three 14ers visible from camp. These peaks—Sunlight Peak (14,059 feet), Mt. Eolus (14,083 feet), and Windom Peak (14,082 feet)—are accessible from a base camp at Chicago Basin. You can either track it with a GPS app, or follow the unofficial trails to the peaks. I had limited time, so I base camped the first night and hiked Windom in the morning, then hiked all the way out after collecting my gear. There was a connector trail between Sunlight and Windom that I did not take due to time constraints.

Hiker trails and cairns are visible, though sometimes faint and the path can be tricky to follow. These are not the easiest 14ers, though they are some of the most epic. Expect lots of scrambling and rock hopping for the final 1,000 feet of vertical gain, and use appropriate caution and route-finding.

As usual in Colorado’s high country, be on the lookout for afternoon thunderstorms and aim to be off the peaks if you see something rolling in.

Purgatory Creek to Chicago Basin Terrain

The trail is pretty standard for Colorado. It switchbacks down to the Animas River through a primarily wooded trail. The trail is easy to follow and graded for stock, so it’s steady but never feels too steep. The trail is wide and flat along the river before climbing up to Chicago Basin, all on wide dirt trails and well-graded switchbacks.

Once you climb higher in Chicago Basin toward the peaks, the trail naturally becomes more faint and challenging to follow, though there are plenty of hiker paths to follow. Once you’re in the rock field, follow the path of least resistance to bag the peaks, and be ready for rock-hopping and scrambling at the top. These peaks are not the easiest of the Colorado 14ers, and will require some scrambling, route-finding, and boulder-hopping at the top.

Logistics: Camping, Water, Gear

Camping: Dispersed, permit-free camping can be found along the majority of the route. There are campsites in the woods before you begin climbing to the basin, along the Animas River, and all throughout the basin itself. Keep tabs on the posted camping boundaries (I camped right inside the boundary around 11,000 feet) and respect your neighbors.

Water: Water is plentiful along the entire route once you drop down to the Animas River, but do not collect water from here. Wait for creek crossings, and collect from Needle Creek once you get closer to Chicago Basin.

Gear: I packed my usual gear for a three-season, high-elevation overnight. This included a freestanding tent, 20-degree sleeping bag, rain jacket, down coat, and base layers. I hiked in shorts and a T-shirt, then climbing Windom in my base layer shirt and rain jacket for extra layering.

I also threw my running pack into my backpack and used it in the morning to climb the peak. This is my usual strategy for base-camp peakbagging excursions, as I don’t like carrying an empty, floppy 40L pack up the peak.

Know Before You Go

Terrain Change: Like I mentioned, bagging the 14ers is a different ballgame than the approach hike. If you plan to hike the 14ers in this basin, be prepared with the right gear, route-finding, and timing.

Dispersed Camping LNT: As always, follow all LNT principles at these dispersed sites. There are no reservations or permits, so it’s up to you to camp in spots that don’t disturb the area, stay within the posted camping boundary in Chicago Basin, and pack everything out.

Summer Storms: Monsoon season can be wicked and dangerous at high elevations on exposed terrain. Keep an eye to the sky as you ascend the peaks, and know that even the most innocuous gathering clouds on the horizon could mean an incoming lightning storm.

Contaminated Water: While health officials say it’s safe to drink water from the Animas River (which was contaminated after a mine breach in 2015), we’re all about the “better safe than sorry” and advise against it. There’s plenty of other water to collect.

Additional Resources

National Forest Purgatory Flats Trailhead

Animas River Drinking Water

Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad

Chicago Basin 14ers

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Region: New England (White Mountain National Forest, New Hampshire)
Distance: 23 Miles, 2 days

Physical Difficulty: (Moderate)

• ~3,800 feet elevation gain 
• Unmarked herd path to summit of Owl’s Head
• Up to 15 stream and river crossings 

Logistical Difficulty: (Moderate) 

• No cell phone service
• Plentiful water sources (filtering recommended)
• Only one designated tent site (fee Memorial Day to Columbus/Indigenous Peoples’ Day)
• Fee to park at trailhead

Season: Fall, Summer
Elevation (average): 2,000-3,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: ~3,800 feet 

How to get to the Inner-Pemi Loop Trailhead

Nearest City: Lincoln, New Hampshire  (5 miles)

Parking is one of the benefits of the loop. The parking lot at Lincoln Woods Trailhead is five miles from Lincoln, directly off Interstate 93. There is a fee per night to park at the trailhead through a self-serve box at the trailhead. Although the parking lot is large, it can fill up quickly on weekends during peak season. There are bathroom facilities and the Lincoln Woods Visitor Center at the trailhead where you can buy last-minute supplies.

If you fly into Manchester or Boston, there are shuttle services offered through Concord Coach Lines to Lincoln.

Ali’s Rides (603) 348-3914 and Priority Transportation (603) 631-6242 are particularly reliable.

Hiking the Inner-Pemi Loop 

This loop is one of my favorite hikes in the White Mountains. I like it so much I did the loop two times in one summer and both times it was the perfect length and difficulty. The Inner-Pemi Loop has up to 15 water crossings and should not be attempted in high-water years or in late spring when snowmelt could make for treacherous conditions. The majority of this hike is located within the Pemigewasset Wilderness and additional regulations should be followed for camping in a wilderness location. There is a caretaker fee to camp at Thirteen Falls Tentsite during peak season (Memorial Day to Columbus/Indigenous Peoples’ Day) and camping is first come, first serve for parties under six people. Additional information can be found here.

The Inner-Pemi Loop starts and finishes on a heavily trafficked trail known as the Lincoln Woods Trail outside Lincoln, on the Kancamagus Highway. The majority of this loop is located on old railroad beds from the logging operations that took place in the Pemigewasset Wilderness in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The trails pass by the sites of five old logging camps and artifacts from the old logging operations can also be found along the trail. Please do not remove any artifacts from the sites. 

The first 3 miles of trail are heavily trafficked, wide, and flat. Upon crossing the second bridge, the trails are still easy to follow, but less maintained. Don’t be surprised if the trails are muddy and wet, even during fall. Shortly after the second bridge crossing bear left onto the Franconia Brook Trail, and about 1.7 miles later take another left onto the Lincoln Brook Trail. This is where the water crossings begin. There will be several crossings that will require either rock hopping, getting your feet wet, or both. 

As you near the herd path to Owl’s Head, the trail will be unavoidably wet. Prior to the herd path, there is one flat spot where people set up camp. There are also several spots near the trail at the junction with the Owl’s Head herd path where people camp. Make sure to follow wilderness camping regulations if you choose to camp along this stretch of trail.

The junction where the Owl’s Head herd path starts is marked by two cairns, one on the left and one on the right side of the trail. Owl’s Head, once a seldom-visited mountain, has become just as popular as many of the other peaks on the New Hampshire 4,000-footer list. Although the trail is unmaintained and considered a path, it is pretty easy to follow. The trail leads through the woods and then pops out onto a slide, which is where the majority of the elevation gain (1,450 feet in one mile) is achieved. After re-entering the trees, the trail continues at a steep pitch and using tree branches to pull yourself up is required in some spots. Eventually the trail levels out at the top of the ridge that leads to the summit of Owl’s Head. Bear left and follow the path for an additional quarter mile along the ridge, climbing over and going around several blowdowns, until you reach a small cairn marking the wooded summit. Although the summit is wooded, there are a few spots along the herd path where you can see up toward Franconia Ridge. 

Upon completing the climb to and from Owl’s Head, the remainder of this loop is less traveled and less maintained. Passing the cairns marking the herd path, you will begin the 3.5-mile trek deep into the Pemigewasset Wilderness. The trail becomes muddy with some mild climbs as you pass along the side of Owl’s Head and the banks of Lincoln Brook. There are a few spots where views of the Franconia Ridge can be seen through the trees. 

Eventually the trail descends toward Thirteen Falls Tentsite. There is a stream crossing as you reach the final stretch of the Lincoln Brook Trail that requires getting your feet wet as you cross Franconia Brook and rejoin the Franconia Brook Trail. Be aware that this crossing may be impassable during high water. Upon crossing Franconia Brook, bear left toward Thirteen Falls Tentsite. Bearing right, there are several beautiful waterfalls along the first stretch of the Franconia Brook Trail, heading back toward the Lincoln Woods Trail. The trail continues a gradual descent and eventually levels out, following old railroad beds where the railroad ties are still visible at times. The final section of the Franconia Brook Trail, prior to the junction with the Lincoln Brook Trail, flanks wetland that may spill over into the trail, making keeping your feet dry impossible. Once past this wetland the trail continues on a straight and level path until it meets back up with the Lincoln Woods Trail and thus the loop is complete.   

When to Hike the Inner-Pemi Loop

The Inner-Pemi Loop is best hiked after Memorial Day weekend through early-to-mid October. The best time is August to September to avoid the buggy season while still having longer days and warmer nights. I wouldn’t recommend hiking this loop in winter unless you are prepared with winter gear and prepared to break trail for several miles. Additionally, hiking this loop in early spring would mean contending with rotting monorails and higher water, along with damage to the trails by having to navigate around seasonal wet stretches and mud. 

Inner-Pemi Loop Terrain 

The majority of this loop is within a wilderness boundary and is heavily forested. There are several areas where the trails are muddy due to beaver dams or simply because of the overabundance of water in and around the trail corridor. The herd path to the summit of Owl’s Head is an unmaintained trail and has no trail markers. There is a section of this path on a slide, meaning that the trail is covered in scree and loose rock and is at a pitch that may require scrambling rather than hiking. The majority of this loop has minimal changes in elevation, with the majority concentrated in a few steep climbs. There are at least 15 water crossings ranging in difficulty from minimal (rock hoppable) to requiring fording (knee-high water on a 5’5” hiker). 

Logistics: Camping, Permits, Land Management

Camping and Permits: Camping at Thirteen Falls Tentsite requires a caretaker fee from Memorial Day to Columbus/Indigenous Peoples’ Day weekend. There are plenty of spots along the loop for stealth camping as long as you follow regulations for camping in a wilderness corridor. Camping at Thirteen Falls is on a first come, first serve basis for parties under six. 

Land Management: Almost the entirety of this loop is situated in a wilderness boundary and wilderness camping rules apply. 

Water: Water is plentiful along the entirety of the loop, but it should be filtered.  

Know Before You Go

This is a loop that shouldn’t be attempted by hikers who are not experienced in navigating in wilderness boundaries where there are fewer trail markers and the trails are less groomed. The herd path leading to the summit of Owl’s Head shouldn’t be attempted by those who are not able to navigate on unmarked herd paths. Additionally, this trail may be more difficult to navigate in wetter conditions, and the river crossings may be difficult during high water. 

Resources

White Mountain Guidebook & Maps
Wilderness Regulations 
4,000-Footers List
Mountain Forecast
Hike Safe Card 
New England Trail Conditions

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The Lost Coast Trail is a 26.4-mile point-to-point backpacking route along California’s North Coast. It is a rugged trail that traverses sandy beaches, boulder fields, and coastal bluffs, and it can be hiked in 2-3 days

Region: Pacific West (King Range National Conservation Area, California)
Distance: 26.4 miles (2-3 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate 

Logistical Difficulty: Difficult 

Season: Year-round
Elevation (average): Sea level
Total Elevation Gain: 1,000 feet

Hiking the Lost Coast Trail

The Lost Coast Trail covers 25 miles of undeveloped coastal wilderness, only 5 hours north of the San Francisco Bay Area. This hike is moderately strenuous and is perfect for the hiker who loves a logistical challenge. Starting at Mattole Beach and ending at Black Sands Beach, you will experience breathtaking views of the coast, including the Punta Gorda lighthouse (decommissioned in 1951), bountiful tide pools, and a lively colony of elephant seals. 

Based on the strong wind coming from the north, it is usually recommended that hikers follow the trail from north to south. However, if you are looking for a quieter wilderness experience, hiking from south to north may offer you the opportunity to hike and camp away from other groups and is a totally viable option. Each creek offers drastically different camping experiences, from the sunrises and sunsets to the wildlife that frequent that specific stretch of coastline. Wildlife that are often encountered along the trail include sea birds, sea lions, elephant seals, harbor seals, river otters, black bears, blacktail deer, and the occasional Roosevelt elk.

During the summer of 2021, I spent collectively over a month on the Lost Coast Trail as a volunteer. I have hiked a variety of routes utilizing many different trailheads, in various weather conditions, with drastically different itineraries. My most enjoyable jaunt on the LCT, however, was hiking from Mattole to Black Sands with my brother in just a day and a half. 

Lost Coast Trail Permits

Wilderness permits are required for any overnight stay in the King Range Wilderness and can be obtained through Recreation.gov. Permits for the entire year (October to October) are released on October 1 at 7am PST, and the summer season is typically booked within a few hours. One person can reserve up to 5 permits for their group. When reserving a permit online, you will need to know which trailheads you plan to enter and exit at and a nightly itinerary for where you plan to camp. While this information is required for the online process, your selections are only used for safety purposes, in case of missing persons reports, or accidents, and will not be enforced by BLM rangers. Once you enter the wilderness area, you have “hiker’s discretion,” meaning that you can choose to hike as far as you want or camp wherever you choose (as long as it is 10 feet above the high tide line). Additionally, this means that you can stay in the King Range Wilderness area for up to 14 days after your permit start date. If you love it out there, extend your trip and explore one of the many inland routes!

Because permits sell out quickly, many attempt to start their hike a few days before or after their permit start date, assuming that they can do so legally. However, the permit system used by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) in this region allows for 60 people to enter per day during peak season (May 15 to September 15) and 30 people to enter per day during non-peak season (September 16 to May 14). This means that if you attempt to start your hike on any day other than your permit start date, your permit is invalid and you may be ticketed by a BLM ranger stationed at either trailhead. The Lost Coast is on an extremely narrow sliver of coastline, therefore the impact that over-recreation has on the landscape can be extreme. If too many people attempt to start on a specific date, they will most likely get stuck at the same camping areas by the tides, resulting in overcrowding and damage to the resource area. 

The biggest piece of advice that I can offer regarding permits is to check the predicted tides for your preferred dates! Many people don’t know that tide predictions are extremely accurate (even a year or more in advance) and can allow you to mitigate unfavorable tidal conditions by choosing days with low tides under 3 feet and slow tidal swings. Here’s the Lost Coast Trail permit page.

How to get to the Lost Coast Trail

Nearest City: Eureka, California (50 miles)

Mattole Beach Trailhead

Black Sands Beach Trailhead

The most popular option to navigate this point-to-point route is hiring a shuttle service. These services are privately operated and are not affiliated with the BLM. It is recommended that you book your shuttle far in advance in order to guarantee a spot. Typically, prices are about $100 per person. (Expensive, yes, but definitely worth it to most folks.) Usually, hikers will meet their shuttle drivers early in the morning at Black Sands Beach day use parking lot, where they will leave their car, and be driven along unmaintained, windy dirt roads for two hours to start at Mattole Trailhead.

There are three services that are legally insured to shuttle hikers between trailheads along the Lost Coast:

• Lost Coast Adventure Tours
• Mendo Insider Tours
• Bill’s Lost Coast Shuttle Service: 707-442-1983

If you’re a fan of long car rides, have an extra day to station your cars before you start your hike, and would prefer to save your money, you may also consider the method of leaving a car at each trailhead. The biggest thing to consider in this option is your vehicle’s ability to drive on windy, unpaved mountain roads for hours. 

1. If you have a high-clearance vehicle (4WD/AWD recommended, necessary in the winter), you may choose to take this route between trailheads. (About 2 hours). This is also the route that the shuttle drivers will take. *Note: I have never driven my personal vehicle on Ettersburg Road or Wilder Ridge Road, and I would recommend that people from out of the area choose the second option that follows the 101. MAP IT HERE

2. If your vehicle does not have high clearance, you will need to take this route between trailheads. (About 2 hours, 40 minutes). This is my preferred route and the route I suggest to all visitors from out of town. There will still be some unpaved sections along Mattole Road, but nothing unmanageable. MAP IT HERE

Accessing the coast from any other inland trailhead requires high-clearance AWD vehicles to navigate the unmaintained and unpaved roads within the King Range. It is also worth noting that cell phone service is usually unavailable and that AAA will not be able to reach your vehicle in case of an emergency. 

Another option is organizing up a key-swap with hikers who are hiking the opposite direction as you. I have no personal experience with this, but it seems to be a fairly popular option for some trusting individuals. If this is something you would consider, you may have luck finding a buddy in the Facebook group Lost Coast Trail CA.

Lastly, you may very well choose to hike out-and-back. More power to you!

When to Hike the Lost Coast Trail

While this hike is accessible year round, I would suggest reserving a permit for the spring season to enjoy the blue skies, wildflowers, and baby elephant seals. The most popular time to hike the Lost Coast Trail is during the summer, resulting in more human interaction. There are never crowds along the LCT, but you are likely to run into larger groups of people when you arrive at your camping area for the night. Additionally, the King Range usually goes into its first level of fire restrictions in July, but as early as June. In 2021, campfires were allowed on the LCT until mid-July, and all open flames and camp stoves were banned on August 11. The fall season (through November) may also be impacted by the summer’s burn ban. In the winter, storms offshore cause hazardous ocean conditions that increase risks associated with hiking along the coast. It is also worth noting that this area of Humboldt County typically receives 50-70 inches of rainfall annually, most of which comes down in the late fall-early spring. 

Your itinerary will be mostly dependent on your ability to hike through each impassable zone during a low-tide window. The following itinerary is a common way to break up the hike, but every single person’s hike is different based on the conditions. Impassable zones and tides will be discussed in detail in the section “Trail Terrain.” Additionally, this hike can certainly be completed in a single day if the tidal conditions are in your favor and you can get through both impassable zones at a low tide. Many people travel slowly along the LCT in order to enjoy the coastal scenery, taking as long as a week to complete their hike. 

Day 1: Mattole Beach Trailhead to Cooskie Creek (6.8 miles)

• This section of the trail is entirely along sandy beach or slippery boulders, so anticipate a slower pace. (1.5 mph)
• You will pass the impassable point at Punta Gorda and hike halfway through the northern impassable zone. Fear not, Cooskie Creek offers a safe creek valley for camping where you will be safe from the tide. 
• You can also hike up Cooskie Creek to find hidden campsites and a small swimming hole early in the summer season. 
• River otter activity here is common and you may see them hunting and swimming in the creek in the early morning. 

Day 2: Cooskie Creek to Miller Flat/Big Flat (9.8 miles)

• For the first 2 miles, you will be finishing the northern impassable zone and hiking in sand. Be sure to start your hike when the tide is receding. There is a “pinch point” at Randall Creek that may require you to run around a rocky outcropping to avoid being hit by a wave. Be sure that when you reach Randall Creek the tide is under 3 feet, or you will not make it past the pinch point. 
• The remaining 7.8 miles are on a bluff above the beach. Here, you will not need to worry about the tides, because you are at least 20 feet above sea level. Bonus: You will be able to pick up your pace along the compacted, flat trail. 
• When you reach Big Flat Creek, you will have many camping options. The north side of the creek is considered Big Flat, and the south side is considered Miller Flat. 
• By camping here, you will be setting yourself up well to hike through the southern impassable zone the following morning during low tide. 
• Note: There is a private residence at Big Flat, and they often host yoga retreats. If camping alongside a group of yogis isn’t your desired wilderness experience, camp on the south side of the creek at Miller Flat. 

Day 3: Miller Flat to Black Sands Beach Trailhead (8.5 miles)

• Your first mile will continue along the bluff before dropping you back onto the beach just north of Shipman Creek. This is the beginning of the southern impassable zone, and it continues south on to Gitchell Creek.
• For this section, be sure to hike during a receding tide and reach Gitchell Creek while the tide is below 3 feet. 
• Once you’ve reached Gitchell, you can slowly meander and enjoy the remainder of your hike to Black Sands, due to the wide stretch of beach in the southern section. 
• Keep an eye out for bear tracks along the beach if you’re traveling in the early morning!

Lost Coast Trail Terrain 

The terrain of the LCT is the most precarious and challenging aspect of this route. The northern and southern sections follow the coastline, while the middle section (Randall Creek to Miller Flat) follows a bluff trail above sea level. Along the coastal sections, you will spend most of your time hiking through sand or jumping through boulder fields. In the middle bluff section, you will walk through overgrown lupine and poison oak before it opens up to a flat, grassy prairie. There are shallow creek crossings every mile or so, but you will probably be able to stay dry by rock hopping. Due to the sandy and rocky terrain, it is recommended that hikers plan for a slower pace of 1.5 mph.

When traveling along the beach, one needs to plan to pass through the 3 impassable zones at specific times in order to mitigate the danger of rising tides trapping you along the cliffside. 

1. The northernmost “impassable point” is located 2.4 miles south of the Mattole trailhead. If the tide is higher than 5.5 feet, the rocks along Punta Gorda will all be underwater, making that spot impassable. A tide lower than 5.5 feet will allow you to safely hike past this point. 
2. The northern “impassable zone” is located between Sea Lion Gulch and Randall Creek. Start hiking this section on a receding tide, and be sure to reach Randall Creek while the tide is lower than 3 feet. If the tide is higher than 3 feet, you will not be able to hike around the rocky outcropping located at Randall Creek. 
3. The southern “impassable zone” is located between Big Flat and Gitchell Creek. This section should also be hiked on a receding tide. Most of this section is a fairly narrow strip of beach, so aim to hike this entire section while the tide is below 3 feet. 

Lost Coast Trail Resupply Strategy 

The LCT is short enough to not require a resupply strategy. Be sure to carry a hard-sided bear canister large enough to fit all food, trash, and scented items! 

Logistics: Land Management, Water, Special Gear

What type of land: The entirety of the Lost Coast Trail is located within the King Range Wilderness, meaning that you are held to all wilderness rules and regulations. This area is managed by the Bureau of Land Management. Dogs are allowed to use this trail, but must remain leashed near the Punta Gorda lighthouse when passing the elephant seal colony. 

Water: One of the most convenient aspects of the LCT is the availability of water year round. Hikers will encounter a running creek about every mile or two along the coast, minimizing the need to carry an excess of water. As temperatures rise and flows decrease, some of the creeks may grow algae in the shallow parts closest to the ocean. If this is the case, simply hike up the creek a bit to reach fresh, flowing water. All water along the Lost Coast must be filtered before consumption. 

Special Gear: The one piece of gear that has saved me on the LCT a countless amount of times is a good pair of trekking poles. Whether you’re pulling yourself through the sand or balancing yourself while hopping between boulders, a pair of poles is essential. Many hikers also choose to wear gaiters for the sand, creek crossings, ticks, and poison oak. 

Know Before You Go

Due to the intense planning process, this trail is best suited for experienced backpackers who are very comfortable with organizing logistics and researching.

You need to pass through the impassable zones at receding tides lower than 3 feet. If you are having a difficult time understanding the tide charts for your dates, you should call the BLM King Range Project Office to have a ranger answer your questions at 707-986-5400. This is not something you should just “wing”; understanding the coastline and tides is necessary in order to safely navigate this route. 

Ticks, poison oak, and rattlesnakes are three of the most common concerns among LCT hikers. If you are sleeping without a closed tent, consider treating your gear with permethrin to ward off the ticks. Rattlesnakes can be found as close as a few feet away from the ocean and will be lethargic in the early mornings, so they may not rattle. Keep your eyes open, and always kick pieces of driftwood before taking a seat. 

While you may see a number of large driftwood structures along the beach, please help maintain the wilderness and do not build any. People tend to hide their trash inside them, which attracts rodents and rattlesnakes.

Fire restrictions are usually put into place in midsummer. If you are hiking between July-November, be prepared to eat meals without the use of a camping stove. 

The black bear population in the King Range is very healthy, which is why you are required to carry a hard-sided bear canister on all overnight trips in the wilderness area. Bear canisters can be rented for $5 from the BLM King Range Project Office in Whitethorn, from your shuttle driver, or from the Petrolia Store. 

While dogs are allowed on the trail, they often struggle with the terrain. If you are planning on bringing your pup, you should also bring them a pair of booties for the hot sand. 

Because the LCT is on such a narrow strip of land, you are supposed to dig your catholes in the intertidal zone, not up the creek valleys. This offers some of the most beautiful cathole views imaginable! 

Lost Coast Trail Resources

Shuttles:

• Lost Coast Adventure Tours
• Mendo Insider Tours
• Bill’s Lost Coast Shuttle Service: 707-442-1983

The App Avenza has downloadable maps of the Lost Coast Trail, which is the exact same version distributed by the BLM. This allows you to see yourself in real time on the map and easily navigate along the outlined impassable zones. 

Official Lost Coast Trail map

Most reliable website for checking the tides

The Lost Coast Trail CA Facebook group is a good resource for those with questions from other hikers. Group members often coordinate permit cancellations with each other to allow others to claim them promptly. 

Kacie Hallahan lives and recreates behind the Redwood Curtain of Northern California. She worked as a BLM wilderness ranger on the Lost Coast, hiking the entirety of the trail every week for 10 weeks. Follow her on Instagram for more of her adventures @idkacie.

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The Loyalsock Trail is a 59.2-mile point-to-point hike in north-central Pennsylvania that spans forested ridges, scenic streams, and historic logging roads. The trail features over a dozen waterfalls and can be hiked in 4-6 days.

Region: Mid-Atlantic (Loyalsock State Forest, Pennsylvania)
Distance: 59.2 miles, 4-6 days

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• Steep, sudden ascents
• Rocky and muddy trail
• Easy but frequent stream crossings

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

• No permit required
• Point-to-point trail (shuttle service available)
• Plentiful water sources

Season: Spring, Summer, Early Fall

Elevation (average): ~1,500 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 12,000 feet

Hiking the Loyalsock Trail

The Loyalsock Trail highlights the best of Pennsylvania hiking: vistas, waterfalls, streams, and regional history. The trail immediately starts off with a bang, gaining 1,200 feet in elevation from the western terminus to about mile 2.5. The ascent is a taste of what’s to come on this challenging but rewarding hike, which is well-blazed with yellow disks and mile markers.

The toughest climbs are clustered in the western half, and the trail grows easier and more beautiful as you head northeast. We hiked at the end of June and found the initial 12-15 miles to be quite overgrown with grass, ferns, stinging nettle, and rhododendron. Smith Knob gives you the first panoramic view of the Loyalsock Valley shortly after mile 6, a welcome break following another brief but heel-busting climb. From there you descend into a flat rhododendron tunnel and softer sections of pine and stream before a roadwalk skirting private land.

From mile 22 on, keep your eyes open for blue-blazed side trails so you don’t miss the waterfall views, and get ready to cross more streams as well. The largest water crossing is Kettle Creek, which was tame in early summer but potentially trickier in rainy spring months. Another crossing at Ketchum Run leads you to more waterfalls accessible by ladder or bypass trail. Rode Falls is maybe the best of the trip, with a swimmable basin at the bottom.

A couple of impressive vistas come after mile 35: Alpine View follows a rare switchback climb, and Loyalsock Canyon Vista is the first reward within Worlds End State Park. The state park section takes you down a rocky canyon, eventually passing a visitors center (there’s a snack shop nearby) and ending with a steep scramble up to High Rock Vista. Once back on state forest land after mile 47, the miles pass more quickly on old railroad grades and flat, muddy trail through the woods.

The trail saves the best for the end, winding along Loyalsock Creek. Don’t miss the chance to climb across and swim in The Haystacks around mile 57! These huge sandstone formations in the creek form pools where you can cool off. Before you ascend to the parking lot, there’s a waterfall finale at Dutchman Falls from one last blue-blazed detour.

How to Get to the Loyalsock Trail

Western Terminus: Loyalsock Trailhead off PA Route 87
Closest City: Williamsport, Pennsylvania (15 miles)

Eastern Terminus: Loyalsock Trailhead Dutchman Falls
Closest Cities: Williamsport, Pennsylvania (42 miles) or Wilkes-Barre, Pennsylvania (49 miles)

Driving and Shuttle: We drove two cars from Philadelphia (just under 3 hours travel) and parked one at the Dutchman Falls lot, where there are plenty of spaces—no overnight permit required. Then it was about a 40-minute drive to the western terminus, which is a smaller gravel pull-off that still provides space for multiple cars to park. If you prefer to drive one car, The Alpine Club of Williamsport lists a shuttle service on their website and also recommends connecting with local trail angels through the LT Public Facebook Group. 

When to Hike the Loyalsock Trail

Hike the trail in spring, summer, or early fall. Keep in mind that there are many stream crossings, which could be more difficult after snow melt or during rainy months. Avoid hiking during bear and deer hunting seasons from around Thanksgiving through most of December; you can find seasonal dates listed on the Pennsylvania Game Commission website.

Sample Itinerary: This is how we did it, purposely leaving just a few miles for the last day’s drive home. The western miles are more challenging, though, so you might consider allocating more miles on later days if hiking northeast.

Day 1: Western trailhead to Snake Run (10.5 miles)

Day 2: Snake Run to Dry Run (17.9 miles)

Day 3: Dry Run to Double Run after Worlds End Road crossing (11.2 miles)

Day 4: Double Run to Sones Pond (13.4 miles)

Day 5: Sones Pond to trailhead at Dutchman Falls (6.2 miles)

Loyalsock Trail Terrain

You’re in Pennsylvania, so expect lots of forest and rocky terrain. On old railroad grade sections, watch for large roots on trail. The hike is constantly climbing steeply and then descending into valleys just as quickly, so do not expect winding switchbacks like you’d find out West. Many of the flat sections are either muddy or overgrown with vegetation, but that will largely be determined by the time of year you go.

Logistics: Permits, Land Designation and Camping, and Open Fires

Permits: No permit is necessary to hike the Loyalsock Trail, but it is recommended that you provide emergency information and dates on trail to Loyalsock State Forest if you’re hiking for multiple days.

Land Designation and Camping: This trail is mostly on state forest land where primitive camping is permitted; however, there are a couple brief stretches that cross private land where camping is not allowed. Also, if you would like to camp within Worlds End State Park (mile 42.77 until just after mile 47), you must reserve a designated site in advance. There are no shelters on trail but established primitive campsites are frequent and well-outlined in a detailed guidebook published annually by The Alpine Club of Williamsport (highly recommend getting one!).

Open Fires: No open fires are allowed on Loyalsock Trail between March 1 and May 25, Oct. 1 and Dec. 1, or any time fire danger is posted as high. Open fires are never permitted on private land or at any point from mile 55.33 through the parking lot at the eastern trailhead.

Know Before You Go

Overgrowth: In less-traveled western parts of the trail you should expect dense rhododendron, overgrown grass, and other vegetation. Definitely use some form of bug protection and check regularly for ticks!

Bears: Loyalsock State Forest is black bear territory, so follow regular precautions and you’ll have no problems. Be sure to properly hang or store your food overnight.

Loyalsock Trail Resources

Alpine Club of Williamsport

Pennsylvania DCNR – Loyalsock State Forest

Worlds End State Park

Loyalsock Trail Facebook Group

BIO

Leah Wynalek is a writer, hiker, and runner from Philadelphia. She loves the green tunnel of Pennsylvania trails and will never stop being enchanted by the lush ferns. Find her on Instagram for cats and outdoor adventures. 

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