The Titcomb Basin Loop is a 44-mile route through the Wind River Range in Wyoming. Highlights of this trip include the namesake Titcomb Basin with an off-trail opportunity to dive deeper into the backcountry.

Day 1 (Elkhart Park – Pole Creek Trailhead to Titcomb Lakes)
Day 2 (Titcomb Lakes to Trapper Lake)
Day 3 (Trapper Lake to Elkhart Park – Pine Creek Trailhead)

Titcomb Basin Loop At-a-Glance

Region: Mountain West (Bridger Wilderness, Bridger-Teton National Forest)
Distance: 44 miles (3-5 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult
—Exposure at high elevations (sun, thunderstorms)
—Sections of loose talus and Class II scrambling (Knapsack Col only)
—Off-trail navigation (Knapsack Col only)

Logistical Difficulty: Easy
—Permits are free and self-issued at the trailhead
—Loop route (no shuttle required)
—Camping is undesignated
—Water is plentiful

Season: Summer, Early Fall

Elevation (average): ~10,500
Total Elevation Gain: 7,411 feet

Hiking Titcomb Basin Loop

Titcomb Basin is a bucket-list backpacking destination in Wyoming’s Wind River Range. The area can be quite popular (by Wyoming standards), but the broader Bridger Wilderness provides ample opportunity for solitude. It’s easy to think of the loop as having three distinct sections: The first section introduces you to the Wind River’s granite monoliths en route to Titcomb Basin; the second section follows the Continental Divide northbound, carrying you deeper into the high country; and the third section is the home stretch, leading you through thick forests before returning you to your car.

I completed this route in three days over Labor Day weekend in 2022. Most hikers I encountered were in the first 14 miles of the trail before reaching Titcomb Basin.

Pole Creek Trail introduces you to the Wind River Range by leading you through dense forests and several meadows before spitting you out at Photographers Point. This section of trail gives you time to warm up your legs and make pack adjustments as needed. (Conversely, if you start the loop in a clockwise direction, you’ll begin with a 1,700-foot descent to Pine Creek … not fun.) From here, you’ll remain above 10,000 feet elevation, weaving around many large and small lakes. Both Seneca Lake (mile 9) and Island Lake (mile 12) are excellent camping options before reaching Titcomb Basin at mile 14.

The basin comprises a series of Titcomb lakes that are surrounded by towering 13,000-foot granite peaks: Henderson Peak to the west, Jackson, Fremont, Sacagawea, and Mount Helen to the east. Most hikers and backpackers will travel in and out the basin via the southern drainage (toward Island Lake). Having read trip reports that mentioned the Knapsack Col alternative (exiting the basin to the north), I knew I needed to give it a try! This is an off-trail route that is both challenging and rewarding for experienced hikers. I recommend researching current trail conditions (closer to your departure date) and assessing your physical capabilities. Route finding, rock scrambling, scree climbing: If this does not appeal to you, return to Island Lake, and continue north on the Highline / Continental Divide Trail.

Approach Knapsack Col by following the Titcomb Basin Trail north until it ends. From here, follow the creek and begin a boulder scramble. The creek is coming from a small lake at 11,700 feet. Continue west up a small saddle before gaining sight of Knapsack Col (identifiable by the snowfield at its base). Approach the col by angling up and across the scree slope. The snowfield I encountered in early September was easy to avoid by following the slope up and to the right. This 1.5-mile section through the upper basin was the highlight of the trip for me.

The remainder of the route, as they say, is all downhill. Follow the faint user trail down to Peak Lake where you regain the maintained trail system. Climb up and over Shannon Pass before reconnecting with the Highline / Continental Divide Tail. This section of the route (along the CDT) is very exposed. The trail grade is not challenging; however, I completed this during the middle of Day 2 and it was very hot. A hat, sun hoody, and sunscreen would be very helpful. Thankfully, water is abundant. 

At Summit Lake, you will leave the CDT to complete the loop along Summit Lake and Long Lake Trails. Along the way, there are many lakes to camp at. After logging 18.6 miles on Day 2, I set up camp at Trapper Lake. There is a sandy beach along the north side of the lake that was unfortunately occupied by other campers when I arrived. I found a more secluded campsite along the western shore and spent the evening rehydrating myself and my dog with plenty of electrolytes.

Wildfire smoke had blown in on my final day as I left Trapper Lake. I began the steep descent (2,300 feet) to Pine Creek, where I refilled water, before a final climb (1,800 feet) back to my car.

How to Get to Titcomb Basin Loop

Closest Major City: Pinedale, Wyoming

Elkhart Park – Pole Creek Trailhead is the most direct route to reach Titcomb Basin. The Elkhart Park recreation area is a 15-mile drive from Pinedale (25-30 minutes). Pick up any last-minute snacks you need at Obo’s Market and Deli before you head up the mountain. There is a large parking area at the trailhead with vaulted toilets but no fresh drinking water. Trails End Campground has 8 sites and operates on a first-come, first-serve basis ($12/night).

When to Hike the Titcomb Basin Loop

Midsummer to early fall is the best time to hike in the Winds. The route travels between 9,000 to 12,000 feet elevation and annual snowfall is an important consideration when timing your hike. Snow may linger at high elevations late into the summer. Labor Day was an ideal time. I encountered no snow on the trail (avoiding the small snowfield on Knapsack Col), negligible bugs, and several late wildflowers.

Even in summer months, make sure you prepare for mountain weather as rain and thunderstorms can develop quickly, and overnight temperatures may drop significantly.

Titcomb Basin Loop Terrain

Much of the route is well marked, graded, and easy to follow. You will encounter some rocky sections, and should expect several long, sustained climbs. The most challenging section of this hike is the off-trail route over Knapsack Col. I recommend tackling this section early in the morning while your legs are fresh and the sun is still low in the sky.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Leave No Trace

Permits: None! Titcomb Basin and the surrounding area are part of the Bridger-Teton National Forest (Bridger Wilderness). Permits are only required for organized groups. Check the US Forest Service website for additional details.

Camping: Bridger Wilderness regulations (and Leave No Trace principles) specify that campsites must be at least 200 feet away from a lakeshore or trail, and 100 feet away from a stream, creek, or spring. It is always best to look for existing-use sites. Mind these regulations if you plan to set up camp at Titcomb Basin; these sites can be difficult to find. Many spots that appear to be existing camp sites around Titcomb Lakes are illegal (given the 200-foot rule). It’s also worth checking above Titcomb Lakes at Mistake Lake, where a few additional sites exist.

Food Storage: Black bears and grizzly bears are present in the Bridger Wilderness and proper food storage is required. Since many areas of the route (including Titcomb Basin) are above treeline, a hard-sided bear canister is recommended. I use the BearVault BV500, which is large enough to carry a few days’ of food, plus toiletries, dog food, and trash at night.

Campfires: Campfires are permitted only below timberline. Cutting or removing standing wood is not allowed. Use established fire rings, pans, or mound fires where fires are permitted.

Know Before You Go

Weather: Weather conditions and temperatures can change rapidly in the Winds. Check forecasts leading up to your trip, but also prepare for wet, windy, or generally colder-than-expected weather. Mountain-forecast.com is a great resource to get localized weather forecasts for the Wind River Range, which allows you to search weather by mountain peak (e.g., Fremont Peak, which towers over Titcomb Basin).

Bears: There is a possibility of encountering black and grizzly bears in the Winds. Carry bear spray and know how to use it. I also like to carry a bear bell. I can’t guarantee the effectiveness, but they are cheap, lightweight, and easier to use than trying to talk to yourself to make noise.

Water: Water is plentiful along the Titcomb Basin Loop. Treat all water with portable water filters, chemical methods, or by boiling. I prefer the Katadyn BeFree Water Filtration System that doubles as a water reservoir.

Off-Trail Navigation: The route described should only be attempted by experienced hikers. That said, Knapsack Col is manageable as a beginner / intermediate off-trail route. The climb is steep, and you will be carrying your backpacking gear, so expect a slower pace. You should be comfortable reading the terrain and have access to both paper maps and electronic navigation systems.

Hiking Titcomb Basin with a Dog: Dogs are allowed in the Bridger Wilderness but should be under control at all times and kept away from other people and wildlife. I have a reactive dog and found the majority of pet owners were allowing their dogs to hike off-leash. This made me very nervous for the safety of my dog, for the safety of their dogs, and for the safety of wildlife in general.

My dog is an experienced backpacker. She was able to navigate the Class II scramble approach to Knapsack Col quite effectively but struggled on the loose talus toward the top of the climb. We encountered another backpacker with a dog (wearing boots) coming up the col from the west side. This route is attainable but challenging for both two- and four-legged friends.

Resources

Bridger Wilderness Regulations (website)

Local weather for Fremont Peak (website)

Inger Appanaitis lives in Northern Colorado and recreates throughout the Mountain West. Her home base includes Rocky Mountain National Park and the Indian Peaks Wilderness. She enjoys thinking about, planning, and executing long days on the trail. Follow along for dogs, training, and the outdoors @ingerfied

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The 55-mile Teton Loop is an alternative to the popular Teton Crest Trail, with fewer logistical hurdles, and an opportunity to experience the full diversity of Grand Teton National Park.

Region: Mountain West (Grand Teton National Park)
Distance: 55 miles (2-5 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Steep terrain, including two 3,000-foot climbs
• Climbing and descending at high elevations
• Exposure, sun, and thunderstorms at high elevations

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

Season: Summer, early fall

Total Elevation Gain: 9,643 feet

Hiking the Teton Loop

This 55-mile loop allows hikers to experience the Tetons from almost every angle in the park, including low alpine forests, steep granite canyons, and high alpine ridges. Attempting the route in two days is challenging yet rewarding. You could turn this route into a longer endeavor but this requires additional work navigating the park’s competitive backcountry permit system.

My strategy in attempting this loop was to keep things simple. I was willing and capable to hike long days with a light pack. I had initially tried and failed to secure an advance reservation permit in January when they are first released. Without this advance permit, however, I had the flexibility to wait and monitor current weather and wildfire conditions until I was ready to begin my hike.

The park allocates two-thirds of backcountry camping for first come, first served permits. To secure one of these permits, I arrived at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station at sunrise the day before my desired start date. While I was not the first visitor in line at 5 a.m., many of the people ahead of me were requesting climbing permits. Whether trying to secure an advance reservation or a first come, first served permit, be prepared with several alternative itineraries. The stars aligned and I was granted my first choice start date and camping zone. 

The Grand Teton National Park website warns hikers to expect travel of no more than 2 miles per hour, with an additional hour for every 1,000 feet of elevation gain. My plan was to start at the Jenny Lake Trailhead and camp at the Death Canyon Shelf camping zone, splitting the loop into two even-mileage days (final mileage being 28.6 and 26.7 miles). My pace was brisk but comfortable and I enjoyed longer breaks at water sources when needed. 

How to get to Teton Loop

Closest Major City: Jackson, Wyoming

This route can be accessed from several trailheads along Teton Park Road with overnight parking permitted at the following trailheads: String Lake, Jenny Lake, and Lupine Meadows.

Parking at these trailheads overnight is only allowed with a backcountry permit (more on permits below). Car make, model, and license plate information are recorded on your backcountry permit (no physical parking permit is issued). One advantage of starting and ending at Jenny Lake is the Jenny Lake Store. If you are exiting the park headed north, this is one of the few food options as you head up Highway 191 toward Yellowstone National Park.

When to Hike the Teton Loop

Midsummer to early fall is the best time to hike the Teton Loop (I highly recommend aiming for wildflower season!). Other conditions you may consider when planning for this trip:

Snow Level: Snow may linger at higher elevations.

Wildfires: Breathing conditions, let alone views, can be severely impacted by heavy wildfire smoke later in the summer. It depends on the year, but keep tabs on air quality and wildfire locations.

Bugs: I did not encounter any bugs but I would recommend carrying bug spray as insurance.

Weather: Daytime and overnight temperatures can fluctuate dramatically from the valley floor to the Teton Crest.

Afternoon Thunderstorms: I experienced light rain and some thunder all three days I was in the park. Bring a rain jacket!

It is also important to remember that Grand Teton National Park is home to many large mammals. During certain times of the year these animals are more or less active. For example, the peak of the Rocky Mountain elk breeding season runs from mid-September through mid-October. I carried a bear bell (and bear spray) to alert larger animals of my approach. Bear canisters are required for food storage in the backcountry. Canisters may be checked out for free when you pick up your permit. 

Teton Loop Terrain

The Teton Loop has varied terrain but nothing too challenging. Starting at Jenny Lake, the route leads you through a large meadow before entering the alpine forest along the Valley Trail. This section of trail is spotted with numerous lakes and creeks and water is ample. As you begin climbing up to the crest, you will encounter rockier terrain; however, trails are well maintained along the remainder of the crest.

Teton Loop Logistics: Permits, Camping, Leave No Trace

Permits: A backcountry permit is required for all overnight stays in Grand Teton National Park. Camping is only permitted in designated camping zones. Regardless of the processes outlined below, make sure you have several alternative itineraries on hand when securing your permit.

The advance reservation system is highly competitive! One-third of permits are reserved for each camping zone. Reservations for the summer season are accepted January through May (check the park website to find out what day and time they are released for the current season). Reservations are accepted on recreation.gov and require a $45 nonrefundable processing fee. 

The remaining two-thirds of permits are saved for first come, first served. These permits are available at the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center, Colter Bay Visitor Center, and the Jenny Lake Ranger Station. Permits are available the day of your start day or one day in advance. There is a $35 fee for each walk-in backcountry permit.

Camping: Some of the backcountry camping zones of Grand Teton National Park, such as Marion Lake, have “improved” sites with designated tent sites and bear boxes. Other camping zones lack these amenities and backpackers should use existing bare ground sites to minimize impact. You must always camp at least 200 feet from water and the trail, so that you are out of sight and sound of others. 

Leave No Trace: Campsite “improvements,” such as constructing benches and digging trenches, are prohibited. Fires are also prohibited in the backcountry. Visitors are required to carry out all food scraps and trash (including toilet paper and used tampons or sanitary pads). These items can be disposed of at the Jenny Lake Trailhead when you complete the loop. Additionally, bury all human waste 6-8 inches deep in soil that is at least 200 feet from lakes, streams, and wetlands.

Know Before You Go

Weather: Weather conditions and temperatures can change quickly in the Teton Range. Check forecasts and be prepared for cold temperatures, especially at higher elevations. Weather forecasts for Jackson, Wyoming, or Moose, Wyoming, (the closest towns) may not reflect conditions at higher elevations. Check with a park ranger when you pick up your permit for more accurate information.

Bears: Black and grizzly bears live in Grand Teton National Park. Carry bear spray and know how to use it. Backcountry campers are required to use an Interagency Grizzly Bear Committee approved canister for storing food, toiletries, and garbage. (Bonus: They also protect against rodents!) 

Water: Water is available from the many lakes and mountain streams. Treat all water with portable water filters, chemical methods, or by boiling. Assume all untreated water contains harmful organisms.

Difficulty: The route described should only be attempted by experienced hikers. Steep climbs and changes in altitude could negatively impact hiking endurance and overall physical health. Prepare yourself with good physical conditioning and basic first aid staples such as ibuprofen, blister care, and electrolytes.

Shorter Options: Listen to your body and take one of the cutoffs described above if needed.

Additional Teton Loop Resources

Backcountry Camping – Grand Teton National Park (website)

Backcountry Camping – Grand Teton National Park (pdf)

Backcountry Permits –Recreation.gov (website)

Inger Appanaitis is a modern-day Viking leading solo expeditions through the Pacific and Mountain West regions. Despite growing up on the Southern Oregon Coast, she thrives in the alpine! Some of her favorite areas to explore are the Eastern Sierra, San Juan Mountains, and the Northern Rockies (Beartooths, Sawtooths, Tetons, and Winds…oh my!). Follow along for dogs, training, and trails @ingerfied

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Granite Peak is a stunning mountain nestled in the Beartooth Mountains of South Central Montana. The peak is the highest point in the state at 12,799 feet. The standard approach is accessed via an out-and-back route starting at the popular West Rosebud Trailhead to Mystic Lake.

Region: Mountain West (Custer Gallatin National Forest, Montana)
Distance: 25 miles (round trip)
Season: Summer
Total elevation gain: 6,300 feet

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Steep hiking and scrambling at high elevation
• Class 4 climbing, with possible class 5 moves
• Relentless loose talus/rock fields

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate 

• No permit needed
• Water on route 
• Navigation skills necessary

Hiking the West Rosebud/Phantom Creek Trail to Granite Peak

The West Rosebud Trail is a highly approachable 3-mile section of this hike, on one of the most popular trails in Montana. The West Rosebud Trail begins at the power plant, then ascends through the forest to a rocky overlook before descending to Mystic Lake. Once at the lake, continue for another ½ mile before turning left onto the Phantom Creek Trail, marked with a wooden sign. 

If you read any other information for this trail, this is where you will start to encounter mentions of the “Switchbacks from Hell.” When first reading that name, I was prepared for a heinous sloped scree field. It turns out this is not the case at all,  and if I named this section, I would have called it “Just a Lot of Switchbacks, but it’s Actually Quite Pleasant.”

You will gain nearly 3,000 feet in around two miles, but you will do so on a level and well-maintained trail while bearing witness to a gorgeous, postcard-worthy scene as you rise above the lake, and eventually above treeline. (Pro tip: If you get bored, start counting the switchbacks with fun names, as I did. I counted 28 and named each one. E.g., 10 is Bien, 17: Yas Kween, 24: Just a few more!) 

Once you pass the switchbacks, you can gain the Froze to Death (FTD) plateau. There are multiple ways to do this, but there is a worn path marking a popular exit from the Phantom Creek Trail just past the switchbacks. This path will end shortly, and no dedicated trail exists from this point onward. Here is a good place to start using your navigation tools. I recommend using a GPX track on a mapping platform (I use Gaia, but OnX is another good option) to guide your path.

While the plateau has some visual landmarks and cairns, it can be easy to get turned around. Be sure to stay right of the gravelly peaks, including Froze to Death Peak, while you traverse the plateau. You will find water from snowmelt along the plateau as you continue on toward the Tempest/Granite area. The FTD plateau will not be the relief you are seeking from the switchbacks, as you continue to gain significant elevation as you inch closer to Granite. Parties that choose to do Granite in three or more days will camp along this first section of the plateau. Look for built windbreaks in a semi-protected natural dip in the plateau.

As you approach the Tempest mountain area, you will see a crest with a large cairn. The descent after this crest is the beginning of the Granite climbing approach. There are no comfortable camping locations past this point unless you want to snuggle with loose rock on a steep slope. Instead, there will be a large rock wind shelter area near the crest. This is your best location for camping the night before the summit as it provides the best launching point for the traverse to the Tempest/Granite saddle and to Granite Peak.

Note: If you or anyone in your party is not prepared to climb Granite, Tempest Mountain is highly attainable and walkable from this location. This non-technical peak is just 400 feet lower than Granite and will offer incredible views of the peak and surrounding wilderness. Some folks will camp lower than the crest; if you do, be sure to mark your location so you can easily find it again after your summit, and skip spending 1.5 hours wandering the homogeneous surface of the plateau looking for your gear (no, not speaking from experience, why would you ask?).

On your summit day, you will top the crest, and descend/traverse toward the saddle between Tempest and Granite. There is a faint trail marked by cairns through 3rd and 4th class terrain. At the saddle, you will cross the saddle ridge and continue to follow a faint climber’s trail toward the summit. Depending on conditions and snow, you can also forgo the trail to scramble the saddle ridge here—continuous 4th-class scrambling on blocky granite. The climber’s trail below the ridge and climbers left is much faster if open.

Continue on this trail until you can see the snow bridge, a narrow area before several 4th-class chimneys. Late season, this will be a loose, gravelly saddle. Take a minute here to plan your route across the snow bridge and through the chimney systems. You will pass the first rappel anchors as you navigate the chimneys toward a notch, staying left of the rock with an “X” feature, clearly visible before crossing the snow bridge. Once past the notch, you will downclimb a bit and be able to view the final summit face.

Start your final ascent near a large boulder with a horizontal crack scrambling up 4th class between two chimney features. You will see rappel stations on these pitches as well. Continue left along an exposed bouldery ledge and continue to a conspicuous keyhole feature near the top of the face. Climb LEFT of the keyhole to avoid 5th class moves, and scramble the last few blocky moves to the summit. Sign the register and lie on the summit block like the little sun lizard that you are (or cloud lizard, or snow lizard, or sleet lizard, depending on conditions). 

Descent: Put that thing down, flip it, and reverse it! Be sure to pay close attention (and look behind you) to notable features as you climb up to help speed up your descent. There are cairns marking several “paths,” and it’s easy to take a different way down. I would recommend a 60- or 70-meter rope to avoid multiple rappels on the face section. Be sure to inspect each anchor and either avoid it or add additional slings/rap rings if it looks unsafe/chewed up. If you are comfortable downclimbing these sections, this will be much faster than rappels. 

EDITORS NOTE: We mention it several times in this article, but it bears repeating here as well—this is a highly technical route that requires, at minimum, advanced scrambling skills, and is probably best suited to hikers with climbing, mountaineering, and off-trail navigational skills. You’ve been warned.

Permits: No permit needed.

Getting to Granite Peak via West Rosebud Trailhead

Nearest City: Red Lodge, Montana (43 miles)

The West Rosebud Trailhead is accessible by car, and you are able to park overnight or for several nights at the designated parking lot. Note as of 9/18/2022: Due to flooding in the area, the original trailhead access is closed until bridges can be restored. Parking is 0.65 miles before the trailhead, and access by foot is permitted.

When to hike Granite Peak via West Rosebud Trailhead

Mid to late summer is the best time to attempt this peak. While attempts have been made year-round, please consider your abilities as a mountaineer or alpinist if attempting to bag this peak in any other season. There is a small snow bridge that usually remains in until the end of the summer, so check current conditions to determine what gear you may need. Weather is always a factor on the exposed plateau and peak, so be prepared with sufficient rain gear and warm/dry layers. A wind layer is also recommended.

Granite Peak via West Rosebud Trailhead Terrain 

West Rosebud Trail: Maintained and well-marked trail starting at the power plant. Dirt and rocky trail through forest along the creek. 

Phantom Creek: Well-traveled trail, mostly level with dirt and gravel. 

Froze to Death Plateau: Mixed rock and vegetated tundra. Uneven, with no clear trail. 

Climber’s Trail to Summit: Relentless talus, some loose granite scrambling, and class 4 (possibly low 5th class) granite face to the summit. 

Logistics for Granite Peak via West Rosebud Trailhead

Resupply: No resupply is possible on this route. Only self-supported travel in this zone unless you’re friends with a helicopter pilot.

Camping and Permits: No permits are necessary. There are official campsites at Mystic Lake, then dispersed camping on the plateau, including built-up windbreaks. It is highly recommended to camp at the windbreaks right before cresting to the saddle of Tempest Peak and Granite Peak. This will give you a great launching point for your summit bid.

What Type of Land: Land acknowledgement: These recreation trails are on native Apsáalooke (Crow) lands. 

Custer Gallatin National Forest: West Rosebud Trail to Mystic Lake

Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness: Phantom Creek Trail, Froze to Death Plateau, and Granite Summit

Curious about the difference between wilderness area and national forest designations? Check out this article from Nature. 

Water: No water from the 4th switchback on Phantom Creek Trail to the FTD plateau.

Water from snowmelt consistently on FTD plateau, but always check local information if going late season.

Special Gear: The technicality of climbing Granite Peak depends on the conditions and the amount of experience as a hiker or mountaineer. In the early seasons, be sure to bring crampons and an ice axe, as the snow bridge will likely still be in. Snow travel skills are necessary. 

For all seasons, bring rain gear, layers, a helmet, and shoes with high-friction rubber (approach shoes recommended).

Consider bringing a rope, harness, lockers, belay device, prusik, extra webbing, and even a few pieces of protection. If you are an avid climber and mountaineer and are comfortable pulling (and downclimbing) lower 5th-class moves in highly exposed terrain, this gear may not be necessary. Consider the skills and comfort level of your whole crew before ditching extra gear.

Know Before You Go

• This route, while highly attainable, should not be underestimated. The approach is gnarly. The plateau is exposed, and afternoon storms are frequent.
•  Granite summit bids are the reason for multiple search and rescue calls each summer. Don’t be caught unprepared—this is not a walk-up. Be prepared to navigate on the plateau in any conditions. Bring a SPOT or InReach as an emergency backup. 
• There are cairns everywhere on the plateau and summit trails. DO NOT rely solely on cairns to navigate, as there are multiple trails. Be thoughtful in considering your route.
• This is grizzly bear and mountain goat country. Bring bear spray and supplies to hang a bear bag if camping low. Beware of mountain goats while camping on the plateau, as they like to lick the salt from urine. Make sure to urinate a safe distance from your campsite as they will be sure to pay you(r pee) a visit. 

Resources

• Granite Peak Summit Post page  for detailed climbing ascent beta and photos
• Beartooth Publishing: Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness Map
• Roscoe’s Grizzly Bar for a post-summit burger

Dawn Brintnall is a retired old sea captain, outdoor enthusiast, and writer living in Red Lodge, Montana. Her favorite activities include battling ye olde salty sea, climbing, and mountain biking. Usually, you can find her tutoring disadvantaged dolphins or walking around muttering about “gold in them hills.” 

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The Bear River Range Traverse is a challenging point-to-point backpacking route in Northern Utah that crosses the heart of the Mount Naomi Wilderness. It stitches together multiple on-trail and off-trail segments in the Cache National Forest and can be hiked in 2-4 days.

Region: Mountain West (Cache National Forest, Utah)
Length: 44 miles (2-4 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• This trail features significant elevation gain and loss, including scrambling to peaks near 10,000 feet
• Occasional sections are off-trail or feature faint trails
• Lack of water is a concern in the Bear River Range, requiring attention to the distance between sources

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Route options exist in the area, but exploring the Bear River Range as a multi-day adventure generally requires a car shuttle between trailheads
• Planning is required around water sources, especially on the southern section of the route

Season: Summer and fall
Average Elevation: ~8,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 16,500 feet

Hiking the Bear River Range Traverse

The Bear River Range Traverse is a 44-mile backpacking trail roughly following the crest of the Bear River Range through the Mount Naomi Wilderness. The Bear River Range is a subrange of the Wasatch in Northern Utah and Southern Idaho and features steep limestone peaks, mountain lakes, and sweeping drainages filled with pine and aspen forests. Much of the trail is above treeline and several major summits in the range are directly along the route, with others nearby as scrambly side trips. The range is home to several endemic species and Great Basin ecological diversity. This route will appeal to backpackers looking for a long weekend trip with big views and a sense of solitude along many of its segments, especially during late season. 

This route starts at the Spring Hollow Campground off Highway 89 in Logan Canyon. The route overlaps with the popular Crimson Trail, which highlights the canyon’s limestone walls. After several miles, the route descends and crosses the highway before it climbs to the main ridge and wilderness boundary. From there, hikers follow the steep ridgetop trail and summit Beirdneau Peak, entering the heart of the Mount Naomi Wilderness. Roughly following the ridge, scrambly side trails lead to Mounts Jardine and Elmer, less than 2 trail miles apart. The first reliable water isn’t until Tony Grove Lake, where a campground and trailhead access the wilderness area. From Tony Grove, it’s less than three miles to Naomi Peak, the range’s highest point at 9,979 feet. The most technical side trip on the route is to Mount Magog, a quick Class 3 summit prior to Naomi Peak (you can also just stay on the trail to Naomi). A large sinkhole sits on the ridge between the two peaks, one of numerous sinkholes and caves in the porous limestone of the Bear River Range. 

From Naomi Peak, the trail switches back down the west face of the range into High Creek Canyon, where a reliable stream flows down the drainage from picturesque High Creek Lake. Descending High Creek Canyon leads to another trailhead, and possible exit point via a car shuttle. This route climbs back up to the ridge via the North Fork of High Creek and crosses the Idaho border briefly at the top of the climb. The next section follows an undulating ridge and requires off-trail travel to the remote and seldom-visited Doubletop Mountain. The trail’s final descent rolls down Steam Mill drainage, where reliable water is found most of the year. The route ends at the Franklin Basin Trailhead, just down Logan Canyon from Beaver Mountain Ski Resort.

Getting to the Bear River Range Traverse

Nearest City: Logan, Utah (7 miles from Spring Hollow Campground, 28 miles from Franklin Basin Road)

Southern Terminus: Spring Hollow Campground

Northern Terminus: Franklin Basin Road

Logan sits 80 miles north of Salt Lake City, Utah, at the base of the Bear River Range. It’s 1 hour and 15 minutes from Salt Lake International Airport to Logan via I-15 North and Highway 89/91. Follow Highway 89 into Logan Canyon to access the trailhead termini described above. Numerous other entry and exit points to the area sit conveniently on or near Highway 89 or Highway 91 toward the Idaho border.

Shuttle: The simplest way to hike the Bear River Range Traverse is using a car shuttle between the trailheads. Reaching out to the local outdoor community in Logan is a good option if you don’t have two vehicles (also see: https://hitchwiki.org/en/Utah).

When to Hike the Bear River Range Traverse

This route is best hiked from June to October. Snow in the Mount Naomi Wilderness usually melts out by June and doesn’t return with consistency until November or December (October storms are fairly common, but are generally stand-alone events). July-September can see temperatures near 100 degrees and exposed climbs and ridge walks can bring heat-related challenges. June brings mosquitoes, but the aridity of the range keeps the numbers below considerable levels. Expect cold nights if attempting the route late in the season. 

Bear River Range Traverse Terrain

Much of the Bear River Range Traverse is above treeline and exposed to the Utah sun. The route is generally well-defined. Sections like Beirdneau Ridge, the scramble to Mount Magog, and the Doubletop Ridge feature off or faint trail travel or Class 3 scrambling. Side trips to summit Mount Jardine or Mount Elmer also require scrambling. This route stitches together a number of trails in the Mount Naomi Wilderness; maps or GPS are recommended to ensure correct trails are taken at junctions. Much of the existing signage in the area is aging.

Logistics: Land Designation, Water, Special Gear

Land Designation: The Bear River Range Traverse travels through the Cache National Forest and the Mount Naomi Wilderness. These areas are managed out of the Logan Ranger District, whose offices are at the mouth of Logan Canyon and where hikers can find more information about current conditions. Designated wilderness management emphasizes providing outstanding opportunities for solitude or a primitive and unconfined type of recreation. These qualities abound along this route. Hikers should be respectful of one another and of the sensitive natural resources in the range. Following Leave No Trace practices in campsite selection, wildlife encounters (the range is home to black bear, moose, marmots, pika, deer, elk, and rattlesnakes) and human waste disposal (catholes at least 6 inches deep, pack out toilet paper) is essential. Proper food storage and caution should be exercised. Pit toilets are available at Tony Grove Campground, High Creek Trailhead, and Franklin Basin Trailhead. No permits are required to hike in the Bear Rivers. Tony Grove Campground is a fee area, though the route described above merely passes through it.

Water: Water is not plentiful in the Bear River Range, but can be reliably found at Tony Grove Lake, High Creek Lake, flowing in High Creek Canyon, and along the Steam Mill drainage. The Logan River flows near the beginning of the route if you need to top off before hitting the trail. Treating water in the area is essential. Tony Grove Lake sits 22 miles into the route described here. Water may be found at Cottonwood Spring (17 miles into the route), but relying on this source without consulting the U.S. Forest Service is not recommended. The author of this guide has spent countless hours on desert trails in the Southwest, including the arid Southern California section of the Pacific Crest Trail. The southern section of this route is the only place the author has ever experienced dehydration while temperatures were in the high 90s. Following that experience, the author recommends 6 liters of water to reach Tony Grove Lake from the route start depending on itinerary and prior hydration (more water is recommended if dry camping on this section).

Special Gear: Sunscreen, UPF clothing, and electrolytes are highly recommended. Snow gear, such as an ice axe, may be required in early season travel. Consult the U.S. Forest Service Logan Ranger District for current conditions. 

Know Before You Go

Keep an eye on information from the U.S. Forest Service regarding closures and water availability. Fires are rare in the Bear River Range, but not unheard of. As with any alpine travel, consideration of snow levels and conditions are essential. The Bear River Range is not well-traveled in many areas, so make sure your plans are well-communicated with someone on the outside.

There is cell coverage on the summits overlooking Cache Valley (the author uses Verizon, but this is universal due to the size of the greater Logan population center). These locations include Naomi Peak, Doubletop Mountain, Mount Magog, and Beirdneau Peak.

Be prepared for faint trail navigation and off-trail travel in addition to Class 3 scrambling to reach locations like Mount Jardine, Mount Elmer, and Mount Magog. Be aware of wildlife while hiking as the Bear River Range Traverse travels through bear, moose, and rattlesnake habitat.

Due to remote sections, off-trail travel, a large water carry, and large amounts of elevation gain and loss, this route is not recommended for beginner backpackers.

Resources

Learn about wilderness designation

Regional bus travel (including Logan City and Salt Lake International Airport)

Logan Ranger District

Cache Trails Alliance

Caleb Meyer (he/him) is a hiker and conservation social science researcher based in Utah. In addition to countless hikes, backpacking trips and other generous times in the outdoors, Caleb hiked the Pacific Crest Trail in 2019 and the Colorado Trail in 2021. Outside of long-distance hiking, Caleb spends his time running, skiing, and working in public land management. Follow along on Instagram: @topohikes

The post Bear River Range Traverse appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

The Great Divide Trail is a 1,123km (697-mile) Canadian continuation of the Continental Divide Trail. It starts at the U.S.-Canada border at Waterton Lakes National Park and traverses the Canadian Rockies before ending at Kakwa Provincial Park, and typically takes around 50 days. 

Region: Mountain West, International (Canadian Rockies)
Distance: 697 miles (42-60 days)

Season: Summer 
Total Elevation Gain: ~138,000 feet

Hiking the Great Divide Trail

The Great Divide Trail packs in some of the most prestigious, remote, and beautiful hikes in Canada into one package. The Great Divide Trail Association calls it the “wildest thru-hike,” and it’s not far off. The trail is broken up into seven sections, described below.

Section A: Waterton Monument to Coleman, Alberta

There is little warm-up on this trail. Right from day one there are substantial climbs up to alpine ridges and descents to crystal-blue lakes. The difficulty is increased as a massive portion of Waterton Lakes National Park was burned in a fire during the summer of 2017. Hiking through the burn can ramp up the temperature. On around day three or four, one of the hardest climbs of the entire trail begins as you ascend La Coulette Ridge, an off-trail climb up several peaks. The combination of over 5,000 feet of gain and off-trail scree travel means most people will only go 10-15 miles this day. After the ridge you will stay at much lower elevations for the rest of the section and most of the notable climbs will be out of the way. 

I recommend taking a zero in Coleman. Blairmore is a short way down the highway but doesn’t attract nearly the same amount of hikers. Check out Safe Haven BnB and the Paddock Inn; both are aware of GDT hikers and will usually have a special deal. If you need to shop, you will need to head to Blairmore, but it is a quick hitch or inexpensive cab

Top Alternate Pick: Barnaby Ridge is a continuation of La Coulette Ridge that continues traversing at ridge crest for several more miles. There is no water unless you drop down to Grizzly Lake so plan accordingly. This alternate will normally add a full day, is exceptionally difficult, and does require some scrambling.

Section B: Coleman, Alberta, to Boulton Creek, Alberta

This section has recently undergone a massive trail building campaign and has been rerouted to avoid a substantial road walk down a logging road. Starting out the section is a short walk down a dirt road before peeling off onto the High Rock Trail, which will be officially open for the summer of 2022. From here you climb up to the beautiful Window Mountain Lake and then along huge a rock wall for several miles. There are no camping reservations needed for Section B, which makes it very easy to plan. There is a lot of hiking in meadows and the flowers can be exceptional at the beginning of July. Section B also features Tornado Pass, one of the more precarious climbs with the final ascent around 30% grade up scree. Section B ends in around 20 miles of road walking, but it’s a dirt road that doesn’t see a ton of traffic. You can usually get a few bars of service here. 

The only option for a zero is at the Boulton Creek car campground. Choosing a powered site is key, otherwise you will spend your entire zero charging all your devices while sitting outside the camp store. There is no internet or phone service at the campground.

Section C: Boulton Creek, Alberta, to Field, British Columbia

This section is essentially most of Canada’s world-renowned trails packed into one section. The Rockwall Trail, Mount Assiniboine, Healy/Ball Pass, Egypt Lake … all of these trails are bucket-list hikes, which means reservations are extremely hard to get for certain campsites, and all sites through here need to be booked ahead. This is the busiest section of the entire trail, but most hikers are unaware of the Great Divide Trail. Some people break up this section by taking a zero in Banff, which adds a bit of distance, so plan accordingly. This section has some of the most spectacular, sweeping alpine views and the trail is in great condition. It feels easier than others due to the exceptional trail condition, particularly in contrast to some of the later sections with river crossings and bushwhacking. 

Many people will choose to zero in the town of Lake Louise, a short hitch from the town of Field where Section D starts. There is a great hostel in Lake Louise, and they have the cheapest food and beer in town. 

Top Alternate Pick: Northover Ridge. From the outset of the section you will head up Northover Ridge, which is the true Continental Divide. This typically adds a full day but has some of the best views on the entire trail.

Section D: Field, British Columbia, to Saskatchewan Crossing, Alberta

Starting off Section D you have a choice between taking the original trail and the Kiwetinok Alternate. The original trail is around 20 miles of overgrown roads, and I’ve heard it can be very mentally challenging and a slow go. The Kiwetinok Alternate starts on the Iceline Trail. I took this because I knew how beautiful the Iceline Trail is, but this also involves booking a hard-to-get site at Little Yoho. Some people will hike all the way over the Kiwetinok Pass, but this is an exceptionally long day with over 6,000 feet of gain. After the Kiwetinok Alternate rejoins the official trail, it almost exclusively follows the valley and river floodplain. After fording the Saskatchewan River more times than you can count, you will be near the end of the section. Large portions of this section are on the floodplain so expect wet feet and be careful with the crossings as the water is cold and certain areas are deep. Big miles are easy on this section, and there isn’t a lot of elevation gain with exception of the Kiwetinok Alternate. 

Saskatchewan Crossing Resort is the only option for accommodation and resupply at the end of this section. The resort does not have cell service and the internet sometimes works, but only to check email. The resort will hold a resupply box for a fee, but will waive it if you stay the night. It is expensive but most hikers will zero here and play endless Ping-Pong in the game room. The resort store has a decent selection of food, but it is insanely expensive; a fuel can costs nearly $20. 

Top Alternate Pick: Kiwetinok. If you want to see glaciers, this is the trail for you. From here you will ascend over a pass and descend through a large boulder field. There is a very steep climb and then another bushwhacking descent. The alternate is relatively new, but the trail is being broken in and it is very well flagged.

Additionally, I recommend the Collie Creek alternate. It shaves off a handful of logging road miles but does involve a river crossing. The blueberries can be great on this alternate.

Section E: Saskatchewan Crossing, Alberta, to Jasper, Alberta

This is another great section for anyone looking for a shorter hike and who doesn’t want to deal with campsite reservations. The hike heads steeply up the Owen Creek drainage and then leaves you with long alpine travel and sporadic trail.

These are some of the biggest views on the biggest terrain of the trail. The route-finding is easy and can be good practice if you are new to off-trail hiking. You will hit the official high point at mile 2,725 on the ironically named Unnamed Pass. You can continue on this section without reservations (but with an Alberta Public Lands Camping Pass) all the way Cataract Pass. After descending Cataract Pass you will be on the Brazeau Loop, a popular multiday hike.

The trail is in great shape and the campsites are nice, but you will need to make reservations. From here you will travel through the Maligne Valley and toward the aquamarine Maligne Lake. Only one party is allowed to travel through the valley per day due to the caribou habitat. Link up with other hikers on the Facebook page ahead of time to coordinate the permit. Arriving at Maligne Lake means there is only about 30 miles left before entering the wonderful town of Jasper, Alberta.

This is on the Skyline Trail, the most popular multiday trail in the park. Again, reservations come at a premium, but some people will hike the entire Skyline Trail in a day. It is long but isn’t exceptionally difficult, as the trail is probably the most manicured section of the entire Great Divide Trail. Afterward there is a bit of a walk through the town trails before arriving in town. Alternatively, you can cab into town but you will be missing some very beautiful lakes and great swimming spots. 

Jasper is the biggest town of the entire trail and has several gear stores, restaurants, and bars. There are two hostels in town, and they will both hold resupply boxes. You can easily resupply from one of the three grocery stores here if you don’t want to mail a box. 

Top Alternate Pick: From the Unnamed Pass and high point, head up the east ridge a few hundred feet for one of the best views you will probably ever see.

Six Passes Alternate: Although closed for 2022, this alternate will hopefully reopen in the future. Rather than descending through the Maligne Valley the trail goes up and over six remote passes, and is entirely off-trail with route finding. It is very difficult and requires good navigation and route-finding skills, as well as confidence in traveling without cairns or flagging. Only one party has been allowed to pass through per day, so the impact has been minimal through this area.

Sections F & G: Jasper, Alberta, to Kakwa Lake, British Columbia

The northernmost sections of the Great Divide Trail combine everything you have already experienced but now it’s more remote and more difficult. On my 2021 hike we only saw two other parties over the course of 11 days.

Until at least 2025, Section F and Section G will need to be linked together. The Berg Lake Trail is a very popular weekend trip and is the delimiter between the two sections. This trail provided access to the highway but was damaged due to extreme flooding. These two sections are typically done in 10-14 days. Leaving Jasper, many people will hitch or cab to avoid a 20-mile road walk. From here you will start heading toward the North Boundary Trail. Section F is relatively flat compared to other sections but can be slow due to mud and deadfall. This is also the first time you will have sizable river crossings that go over the knees and can be quite swift. 

Transitioning into Section G means more river crossings, and even more remote terrain. There will be long meadow walks with sporadic blazes, meaning a lot of it will be choose your own adventure. There are some notable climbs toward the end of the section, until you eventually reach the Jackpine Valley. Until 2021 the Jackpine Valley was one of the most infamous and slowest parts of the trail, with a long bushwhack typically lasting over a day. Thankfully the GDTA has done substantial trail building here and hikers will maintain their sanity. Eventually, you will end at a beautiful backcountry hut at Kakwa Lake. From here it is about 18 miles to the trailhead. From the trailhead it is several hours via logging road to the highway, you will need high-clearance 4×4 to get here. If you need a ride, you can pre-arrange a pickup with Robson Valley Adventures. 

Great Divide Trail Permits

Permits are one of the most challenging aspects of planning a GDT hike. There is no thru-hiker permit; you must book every site like a normal weekend hiker. The trail passes through Banff, Kootenay, Yoho, Jasper, and Waterton national parks; Peter Lougheed, Mount Assiniboine and Mount Robson provincial parks; and some public lands. All of these parks require permits and they are all booked separately on different days.

Each year the reservation days change. In 2022 the national parks reservations were between January 28 and February 2. Peter Lougheed releases permits 90 days in advance, Mount Assiniboine releases permits 60 days in advance, and Mount Robson is closed until 2025. However, you can still hike the Great Divide Trail without camping within Mount Robson Provincial Park.

Booking these permits is the same process for everyone wanting a backcountry reservation, so they are in extremely high demand. Most sites will be booked for the entire summer by midday of the reservation day. If you want to hike the GDT it is essential to be available these days, and ideally plan your entire day around these reservations. 

The Parks Canada reservations are made online, but they can also be made over the phone. On reservation day calling will typically go to voicemail, but they will call you back in the order they receive the messages. Always leave a phone message; it can be drastically faster than using the online portal.

Plan out a flexible itinerary if you can’t get your first choice of campsite. Section C of the trail is the most competitive so many people will start here and plan the rest of the hike around these reservations. Another high-profile section is the northern part of Section E on the Brazeau Loop and the Skyline Trail in Jasper National Park. 

The highest profile site is Floe Lake in Kootenay National Park, which is part of the Rockwall Trail. Another option is staying at Wolverine Pass, which is just outside the park boundary, so it doesn’t require a reservation. There are no facilities, however, and it does include another 2,500 feet of gain.

As mentioned previously, the Skyline Trail is very competitive. Curator campground seems to be the busiest, but choosing Watchtower campground is a good alternative and is only slightly off trail. Lastly, only one party per day is allowed to go through the Maligne Valley, just south of the Skyline Trail. These permits should be made over the phone with the Jasper Backcountry Office at 1-877-737-3783.

Online, Parks Canada requires a reservation Access Point, which is basically a trailhead, but it can get confusing on a thru-hike. This is where planning is necessary. When creating your itinerary, you will need to reference the Parks Canada reservation page ahead of time to see the associated trailheads for each campsite. As you will be traversing multiple parks, several of these sections will need to be booked as independent trips.

Another speed bump is dealing with the dreaded daylight hours error that the online reservation system will trigger. Essentially, the Parks Canada system doesn’t believe you can start at your chosen Access Point and make it to the campground you are trying to reserve. Any distances beyond 19 miles (~30km) will typically trigger this. There are two ways to avoid this: the best option is to chat with someone on the phone by calling the park directly. Otherwise, choose a different Access Point that is closer to the campsite you are trying to book; the Access Point doesn’t really need to be the trailhead you are actually starting from.

If you have multiple days of the daylight hours error, you will need to book each night as a standalone reservation. In other words, choose your Access Point and one campsite, then add to cart. Then for your next night choose another Access Point and then the next campsite. You will incur a reservation fee for each of these even though you are trying to link together a trip. In the past, Parks Canada has refunded these fees if you can show you are on one sequential trip. 

Reservations for the provincial parks are much more straightforward as you will typically only be within the park for a night or two, but they can be just as competitive. Additionally, if you choose to take a zero day at the end of Section B, you will be within Peter Lougheed Provincial Park and will need to book a car camping site. 

If you aren’t hiking the full trail and don’t want to battle for reservations, there are still plenty of sections to hike. Section A only requires a few reservations, and they are easy to come by. Section B doesn’t require any reservations at all. Section D can be done without reservations but having one of the first night will make it easier on the Kiwetinok Alternate. The first half of Section E can be done without any reservations. Section F and Section G also require very few reservations and are easy to reserve. 

With the exception of the Alberta Public Lands Camping Pass and a Parks Canada Discovery Pass, access is free along the entire trail and you only need to pay for campsite reservations.

A Parks Canada Discovery Pass is required for access to national parks, and while most people won’t necessarily have the pass with them it’s a good idea to have a picture of it on your phone. They can be purchased here.

Remote parts of Sections B, E and G will require an Alberta Public Lands Camping Pass. These are $30 and can be booked here.

How to get to the Great Divide Trail 

Nearest City: Calgary, Alberta (169 miles)
Trailhead / Terminus 1: Waterton Lakes National Park. Map it here
Trailhead / Terminus 2: Kakwa Lake Provincial Park. Map it here

The Southern Terminus of the Great Divide Trail is relatively easy to access. It’s in the town of Waterton and accessible by any vehicle. From the Calgary Airport it takes about three hours, but note that you can’t leave a vehicle in Waterton unless you are doing a short section and returning in a few days. 

There are a few options of getting to Waterton for hikers flying in from Calgary. First, is the Airport Shuttle Express, which goes from the airport directly to Waterton National Park. Secondly, is Mountain Man Mikes, a local shuttle that can take you from Calgary to Pincher Creek, Alberta. From Pincher Creek you can take a cab to Waterton National Park for around $100. 

The Northern Terminus of the Great Divide Trail is extremely remote, which means some hikers end their hike in Jasper, Alberta, rather than the terminus in Kakwa Provincial Park. From Jasper you can find multiple shuttles to Edmonton or Calgary, where you can access international airports.

The actual terminus trailhead in Kakwa Provincial Park is 46 miles down a very rough logging road. High clearance and 4×4 are required. Additionally, the trail is very overgrown. You will scratch your vehicle multiple times if attempting to drive to the trailhead. It is also a very slow drive; in 2021 it took a lifted pickup over three hours to access the trailhead. The turn off the highway is on a very remote section of Highway 16, near the town of McBride. From there, the closest city is Prince George, British Columbia, about two hours away. 

Robson Valley Adventures is a local hunting outfitter in the area and has picked up hikers in the past. They do charge a few hundred dollars and availability is limited. They can be reached via Facebook here. They can also drive you to Prince George, British Columbia, or Jasper, Alberta.

When to Hike the Great Divide Trail

The hiking season on the Great Divide Trail is very short. Most people start at the end of June or beginning of July and are off trail by mid-September. The average start date is July 1, and with a 50-day itinerary most people finish in mid-August. Starting in early June means substantial snowpack through avalanche terrain. Starting in late July means you might be hiking into late September, increasing the likelihood of sustained snowfall and bitter temperatures. 

At all times on the Great Divide Trail, hikers should be prepared for snowfall, and as the summer winds down the likelihood of snowfall drastically increases. It is not uncommon for several snowfalls to occur throughout the summer, all with measurable amounts. Additionally, it’s common for temperatures to go below 20F in mid-to-late August. 

Great Divide Trail Navigation

The go-to navigation on the Great Divide Trail is the FarOut (previously Guthook) app. All of the alternates are up to date and it works along the entire trail. However, receiving updates and comments can be hard to come by given that there are only a handful of spots along the entire trail with service. This is a great reason to bring a satellite messenger like a Garmin InReach.

As with all tech, it’s important to have some kind of backup and know how to use it. The Great Divide Trail Association has free topo maps of the entire trail. Just make sure you know how to use a map and compass before heading out, and print the maps with a laser printer so they don’t bleed if they get wet/rained on. We mailed each section’s maps in our resupply boxes.

Great Divide Trail Terrain 

With around 138,000 feet of elevation change, the Great Divide Trail terrain is constantly changing. Hikers will travel through alpine meadows, scree fields, and valley trail networks. A substantial amount of the trail is at or above treeline, with sweeping alpine views. Only about 100 hikers attempt the full trail each year, leaving some sections very remote and quite rugged. The remoteness also means trail maintenance can be very sporadic. Part of this means there are several areas with long stretches of deadfall. There are sections with route-finding and off-trail travel but most of these sections will be on alternates. If you follow the official route you can expect less than 5% of the trail to be true route-finding.

Great Divide Trail Resupply Strategy 

A resupply strategy is necessary on the Great Divide Trail. Throughout the trail there are five true resupply points, with a few other options if necessary. These resupply points will range from towns such as Jasper, Alberta, to car campgrounds with a small camp store. The shortest section is around 60 miles, while the last section is 173 miles. Mail drops are the best option. While it’s possible to resupply directly from all of these places, it’s extremely expensive and very limited. For example, at Saskatchewan Crossing (at the end of Section D), a pack of Pop-Tarts is $12. 

Currently all resupply points (except Boulton Creek at the end of Section B) accept resupply boxes. This can either be at the post office as general delivery or by arranging it with your accommodation. Access to these resupply points is relatively easy, and any road walking will be under three hours. Most people will hitch as some spots are on a busy highways with little to no shoulder. 

One thing to note is the snail pace of Canada Post to some of these resupply locations. A few locations are very remote and may only receive their mail once a week; if you miss the cutoff day this could potentially be a two-week delay. In general, try to have your resupply boxes arrive a month early. Also, I highly suggest mailing them from within Canada to avoid any problems with the border. Canada Post is exceptionally slow compared to the United States Postal Service so plan accordingly.

Great Divide Trail Logistics: Zero Days, Water, Bear Safety

Zero Days: Zero-day accommodation is part of the other preparation that must be done for the Great Divide Trail. With a very short hiking season and limited places to stay, accommodation for a zero-day can be very competitive. As soon as you have your itinerary penciled in, make your bookings for zero-day accommodation. Just make sure you can change it if your finalized campsite reservations alter your plan. The busiest spots will be Boulton Creek, Lake Louise, and Jasper. Finding a place to stay in Coleman can be easier but take note of when the Sinister 7 ultramarathon is taking place as the entire town will be booked up. 

Boulton Creek books up fast, so try to book your campsite the day it opens up. Reserving a powered site is worth it. Also check the map of the campground as some sites are a 10–15-minute walk to showers and the camp store.

If you are staying at the HI-hostel in Lake Louise and in Jasper, consider getting a Hostelling International membership. You will end up saving money if you stay two nights at each of the locations. Both of these hostels will fill up and last-minute bookings can be impossible in places like Jasper, so book these early. 

Lastly, Saskatchewan Crossing Resort will likely be your most expensive accommodation, but can be a great place to hang out with other hikers as it’s the only option other than stealth camping outside the park boundary.

Water: One of the best parts of hiking the Great Divide Trail is the abundant, wonderful quality of water all along the trail. It is very rare to go 10 miles without access to flowing water, and many sources are glacier fed. Most hikers will carry 2L or less and only a few campsites along the entire trail are dry.

Bear Safety: The entire Great Divide Trail travels through grizzly and black bear territory. Bear-proof food storage is necessary, whether you use a bear can or an Ursack. Several campgrounds will have bear lockers in Section C, but outside of this section they are very limited. The PCT method won’t cut it as you will sometimes be above treeline or there won’t be adequate trees for a proper food hang. 

Note: Permits and resupply are the other major logistical issues on this trail, which we covered above.

Know Before You Go

Camping Reservations: We cannot stress enough the monumental task of camping reservations, so have this all lined up before they go live. This means you can’t really adjust your itinerary once it’s booked, so be honest with yourself about your comfort of hiking in snow if you are heading out early. 

Bugs: The bugs can be life-altering. Most hikers will bring a bug head net to keep some sanity. Bug spray can have up to 30% DEET in Canada; if you want anything stronger make sure to purchase it ahead.

Weather: Lastly, prepare for weather. Sustained rain and/or snowfall is almost certainly going to happen. Decent rain gear and strategies for handling moisture and cold weather will pay their dividends.  

To recap, the Great Divide Trail doesn’t have the same kind of feel compared to the Triple Crown trails and only has around 100 thru-hike attempts per year. You will see some other thru-hikers if you start on the popular days like July 1, but once you are mid-hike, most people around you won’t even know about this trail.  

With long sections and heavy food carries, it is far from the easiest trail out there, and without any phone service and limited spots to bail it can be intimidating for new hikers. That being said, if you are looking for long stretches of uninterrupted raw wilderness and countless astounding views this is the trail for you.

Additional Great Divide Trail Resources

The Great Divide Trail Association has sample itineraries and resources for planning a trip. They also run the Great Divide Trail Hikers Facebook page, which has updates on closures, trail status, weather, and other information you might want to know before and during a hike. It’s also a great place to meet up with other hikers. 

Great Divide Trail Association

Great Divide Trail Hikers Facebook

Permits and Reservations

Parks Canada Reservations

BC Parks Reservations

Alberta Parks Reservations

Parks Canada Discovery Pass

Alberta Public Lands Camping Pass

Accommodations

Safe Haven B&B

Paddock Inn

Lake Louise HI Hostel

Saskatchewan Crossing Resort

Jasper Town Hostel

Jasper HI Hostel

Shuttles

Mountain Man Mikes

Robson Valley Adventures

Calgary Airport Shuttle

Austin is a hiker, snowboarder, and student living in Nelson, British Columbia. He is a weekend hiker turned thru-hiker after his 2021 NOBO GDT hike and is happy to call the West Kootenay Mountains his home.

The post Great Divide Trail appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

Region: Mountain West (Colorado)

Distance: ~28-40 miles, depending on peaks (2-4 days) 

Physical Difficulty: Moderate  

• Well-maintained trail
• Moderate climbing into the basin
• High elevation

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

• No permits required
• Out-and-back with easy parking
• Plentiful water

Season: Summer
Elevation (average): ~9,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: ~9,500 feet round-trip (not including 14ers)

Recommended gear for a high-elevation trip

Hiking Purgatory Creek to Chicago Basin

This is a popular trail for people looking to bag the three 14,000-foot peaks in Chicago Basin and to experience some of the most aesthetically pleasing routes in the San Juans. Many hikers I chatted with had plans to base camp in the basin and hike the three peaks over the course of several days.

Another option to access Chicago Basin is via the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, which brings the approach down to six miles. The train was not running in the summer of 2020 when I hiked this trail, so I began the approach from Purgatory Flats Trailhead (link below).

The hike starts out wooded during the ~4.5 miles down to the Animas River, switchbacking on stock-grade trail. I picked up the Animas River Trail at the river, then hiked around five miles of mostly flat terrain until connecting with the Needle Creek Trail.

This section climbed steadily through a canyon with several creek crossings and bursts of wildflowers. It took me about 2.5 hours to break out into Chicago Basin, where I found plenty of other hikers and plentiful dispersed camping.

I continued another half-mile up to 11,000 feet, setting up camp inside the signed camping boundary. Hiking from the trailhead to base camp took me seven hours. Overall the trail is relatively mellow and very easy to follow, though the climb up to Chicago Basin felt challenging due to the elevation.

I was hiking by 6:30 to bag Windom, and made it to the summit by 8:45. I was back at camp at 10:30 a.m. to pack up, and at the bottom of the canyon around 1 p.m. I made it to the junction of Purgatory Creek Trail by 3 p.m, and in another two hours I was back at the truck. I didn’t track specific mileages, but I was hiking around 2.5 miles per hour on average, and heading down was certainly easier than coming up to the Basin, minus the final climb back to the Purgatory Creek Trailhead.

How to Get to Purgatory Creek Trail

Nearest Town: Durango, Colorado (35 minutes, map it here)
Purgatory Flats Trailhead Map

This trail profile references the full hike (without the train ride), which means starting at Purgatory Flats Trailhead across from Purgatory Resort. This is a quick 30-minute drive from Durango heading north on Highway 550.

The trailhead is tucked off the road near a fishing pond across from the resort off 550. It’s easy to find and there is plenty of parking.

When to Hike Purgatory Creek to Chicago Basin

Hiking any of the Colorado 14ers, or even to the base camp between 10,500 and 11,000 feet is best done in mid-to-late summer. I hiked through here in mid-August and the weather was perfect. I didn’t deal with any snow on Windom, and water was plentiful.

As with any of these high-elevation routes, hiking earlier or later in the summer means clinging snow or early-season snow. With the right equipment this is fine, but be prepared for any and all inclement weather.

The weather was in the mid-70s and sunny during the day and dropped to the low 30s overnight. I wore my shorts, base layer, and light rain jacket to climb Windom in the morning.

Bagging the Needles 14ers

Many hikers access Chicago Basin to bag to the three 14ers visible from camp. These peaks—Sunlight Peak (14,059 feet), Mt. Eolus (14,083 feet), and Windom Peak (14,082 feet)—are accessible from a base camp at Chicago Basin. You can either track it with a GPS app, or follow the unofficial trails to the peaks. I had limited time, so I base camped the first night and hiked Windom in the morning, then hiked all the way out after collecting my gear. There was a connector trail between Sunlight and Windom that I did not take due to time constraints.

Hiker trails and cairns are visible, though sometimes faint and the path can be tricky to follow. These are not the easiest 14ers, though they are some of the most epic. Expect lots of scrambling and rock hopping for the final 1,000 feet of vertical gain, and use appropriate caution and route-finding.

As usual in Colorado’s high country, be on the lookout for afternoon thunderstorms and aim to be off the peaks if you see something rolling in.

Purgatory Creek to Chicago Basin Terrain

The trail is pretty standard for Colorado. It switchbacks down to the Animas River through a primarily wooded trail. The trail is easy to follow and graded for stock, so it’s steady but never feels too steep. The trail is wide and flat along the river before climbing up to Chicago Basin, all on wide dirt trails and well-graded switchbacks.

Once you climb higher in Chicago Basin toward the peaks, the trail naturally becomes more faint and challenging to follow, though there are plenty of hiker paths to follow. Once you’re in the rock field, follow the path of least resistance to bag the peaks, and be ready for rock-hopping and scrambling at the top. These peaks are not the easiest of the Colorado 14ers, and will require some scrambling, route-finding, and boulder-hopping at the top.

Logistics: Camping, Water, Gear

Camping: Dispersed, permit-free camping can be found along the majority of the route. There are campsites in the woods before you begin climbing to the basin, along the Animas River, and all throughout the basin itself. Keep tabs on the posted camping boundaries (I camped right inside the boundary around 11,000 feet) and respect your neighbors.

Water: Water is plentiful along the entire route once you drop down to the Animas River, but do not collect water from here. Wait for creek crossings, and collect from Needle Creek once you get closer to Chicago Basin.

Gear: I packed my usual gear for a three-season, high-elevation overnight. This included a freestanding tent, 20-degree sleeping bag, rain jacket, down coat, and base layers. I hiked in shorts and a T-shirt, then climbing Windom in my base layer shirt and rain jacket for extra layering.

I also threw my running pack into my backpack and used it in the morning to climb the peak. This is my usual strategy for base-camp peakbagging excursions, as I don’t like carrying an empty, floppy 40L pack up the peak.

Know Before You Go

Terrain Change: Like I mentioned, bagging the 14ers is a different ballgame than the approach hike. If you plan to hike the 14ers in this basin, be prepared with the right gear, route-finding, and timing.

Dispersed Camping LNT: As always, follow all LNT principles at these dispersed sites. There are no reservations or permits, so it’s up to you to camp in spots that don’t disturb the area, stay within the posted camping boundary in Chicago Basin, and pack everything out.

Summer Storms: Monsoon season can be wicked and dangerous at high elevations on exposed terrain. Keep an eye to the sky as you ascend the peaks, and know that even the most innocuous gathering clouds on the horizon could mean an incoming lightning storm.

Contaminated Water: While health officials say it’s safe to drink water from the Animas River (which was contaminated after a mine breach in 2015), we’re all about the “better safe than sorry” and advise against it. There’s plenty of other water to collect.

Additional Resources

National Forest Purgatory Flats Trailhead

Animas River Drinking Water

Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad

Chicago Basin 14ers

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The Teton Crest Trail is a permitted 40+ mile point-to-point route through and around Grand Teton National Park. It parallels the namesake peak with epic views and frequent water, and can be completed in 2-4 days.

Region: Mountain West (Grand Teton National Park / surrounding national forests, Wyoming)
Distance: 35-45 miles

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Often above treeline
• Rocky and muddy trail
• Easy but frequent stream crossings

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Competitive permit process
• Point-to-point trail (shuttle service or hitchhike required)
• Well-signed trail

Season: Summer, Early Fall

Elevation (average): ~8,500 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 9,000 feet

Hiking the Teton Crest Trail

The Teton Crest Trail is an iconic, high-altitude route that travels through the heart of the Tetons. The views on the route are incredible and you’re likely to see a wide range of wildlife. The trail crosses high plateaus, open expanses, ridges, and skirts the edges of glaciers and glacial lakes. There are different variations that give it a final mileage between 35-45 miles.

The Teton Crest Trail has some challenges. Fast-changing weather, heavy (and long!) bug season, difficult permit process, and lately, lots of smoke.

Many campsites on the Teton Crest Trail offer magnificent views and it is rare to find a spot that doesn’t live up to expectations. The trail traverses Jedediah Wilderness Area, Bridger Teton National Forest, Caribou-Targhee National Forest, and Grand Teton National Park, which means permitting and planning are important.

The main portion of the trail is well-signed and easy to follow, but depending how far you extend the route, some lesser-maintained trails on the west side require specific attention at intersections.

As with many point-to-point trips, a shuttle is necessary. This adds some complications to the hike, since parking can be difficult with the increasing popularity of the TCT.

How to Get to the Teton Crest Trail

Southern Terminus: Phillips Bench Trailhead
Closest City: Jackson, Wyoming (11 miles)

Northern Terminus: Leigh Lake Trailhead
Closest City: Jackson, Wyoming (25 miles)

Driving and Shuttle: We shuttled one of our cars to the northern end so we’d have a vehicle when we finished, allowing us to drive back to the Phillips Bench Trailhead. Prior to the hike, we camped at dispersed camping near the Phillips Bench Trailhead.

When to Hike the Teton Crest Trail

Hike the trail in summer or early fall. The trail can hold snow late into the season, and micro-spikes and an ice ax may be required through June or early July. Also, the bug season can be long and brutal. The bears are most active in early and late season, and we suggest carrying bear spray.

Teton Crest Trail Terrain

After the initial few miles as you slowly climb up to the alpine zone, the trees are largely absent, and you’re surrounded by sweeping views of massive rock faces, alpine lakes, and huge valleys carved by glaciers. The trail can be rocky at times with sporadic deadfalls from winter storms, but it is quite easy to follow and especially well-signed in the Grand Teton National Park section.

Logistics: Permits, Land Designation and Camping, and Open Fires

Permits: Permits are required for all trips through Grand Teton National Park. Permits can be obtained through Recreation.gov and are often booked out months in advance. Walk-up permits are still possible and a viable option, but we recommend having a few different contingency itineraries if you are going with the walk-up option.

Permit Dates

Land Designation and Camping: The trail travels through wilderness areas, national forest, and Grand Teton National Park. The permitting is most strict in the national park for campsites, but there are 11 different sites capable of housing multiple parties.

Open Fires Prohibited: No open fires are allowed

Know Before You Go

Bugs: The Tetons have a notoriously bad bug season. The stories of thick clouds of mosquitoes are present on every message board. Traveling in July means bringing plenty of bug spray and maybe mosquito netting.

Bears: The Tetons are home to a large number of grizzlies and black bears. When camping below 10,000 feet a bear can must be used to store food. It is also highly recommended to carry bear spray and know how to use it.

Changing Weather: The weather can change quickly and unexpectedly in the Tetons, and we recommend being prepared for everything from early-season snow to high exposure and heat. The water accessibility is fairly reliable.

Teton Crest Trail Resources

Backpacking in Grand Teton National Park

Booking Campsites (Recreation.gov)

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The Collegiate Peaks Loop is a breathtaking 160-mile loop trail that circles the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness in central Colorado. The route traverses challenging terrain at high elevations and can be completed in as few as 9 days or up to three weeks, with many opportunities for side hikes and gorgeous views. 

Region: Mountain West (San Isabel, Pike, Gunnison National Forests, Central Colorado)
Distance: 161 miles (plus optional miles on side trails)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Cumulative elevation gain of ~39,000 feet 
• High average elevation, with altitudes ranging between 8,000 and 12,600 feet 
• Steep ascents and descents 

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Loop trail with several resupply opportunities
• Both the Continental Divide Trail and Colorado Trail are well-marked and easy to follow 
• Long sections of trail above treeline in Collegiate West
• Narrow weather window

Season: Summer

Elevation (average): ~11,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: ~39,000 feet

Hiking the Collegiate Peaks Loop

Permits: There is a free trailhead permit when you enter the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness. 

The Collegiate Peaks Loop (CPL) is a challenging, beautiful route, divided into the Collegiate East and West sections. Historically, Collegiate East has been part of the Colorado Trail (CT), and Collegiate West part of the Continental Divide Trail (CDT), with the two connecting at Twin Lakes Reservoir in the north and Monarch Crest in the south. Ambitious, fit, altitude-acclimated hikers on a time crunch can attempt the trail in as little as 8-10 days by walking an average of 18 miles a day. In order to make the most of the many side trails and vistas, more relaxed travelers should plan on taking 2-3 weeks. 

I recommend tackling Collegiate East first, especially if you haven’t spent time at altitude. This section is mostly below treeline, ranges between 8,000 and 11,500 feet, and has slightly less elevation gain than the western half. Collegiate West is almost entirely above 10,000 feet and has expansive above-treeline sections, making for greater risk of afternoon thunderstorms but rewarding vistas. Those with more time and ambition can explore numerous side hikes along the way, including several popular mountains above 14,000 feet (14ers). 

Most people coming from Denver will start and end at Twin Lakes Reservoir. Hikers walk on the shared CDT and CT on the edge of the reservoir and soon reach the intersection where the two trails diverge. Continuing to the left and south on Collegiate East, hikers encounter aspen forests, streams, Clear Creek Reservoir, Harvard Lakes, and the trailheads for Mounts Harvard, Yale, Princeton, Antero, Shavano, and Tabeguache. There is one moderately unpleasant road walk starting at CT mile 226.6 and lasting about 6 miles, but the jaunt does take you past a potential resupply spot of Princeton Hot Springs Resort (and you can stop and enjoy the hot springs or a meal). 

Collegiate East and West meet on Monarch Ridge, which will be the first above-treeline section for hikers who started in the East. From now on, travelers will head west and north on the CDT. Monarch Crest General Store is another potential resupply spot and has an excellent ice cream selection. From here, hikers climb to the top of Monarch Ski Resort, descend to Boss Lake, and cross several passes above 12,000 feet, including Hancock Pass, Lake Ann Pass, and Hope Pass. Side trails on Collegiate West lead to Huron Peak and La Plata, both 14ers. Another flat section around Twin Lakes leads back to the intersection with the CT and then the trailhead.

How to Get to the Collegiate Peaks Loop

Hikers can start anywhere the trail crosses the road, the most popular choices being the Twin Lakes Reservoir on the northern edge of the loop and Monarch Crest at the southern. Twin Lakes is the closer option for those coming from Denver, but starting at Monarch Crest gives more time to acclimate to the altitude. A car can be left at either trailhead, and loop hikers will return to their car once finished. Currently, there is no access to these two trailheads via public transportation.

Nearest Cities to Twin Lakes: 
Denver International Airport (143 miles/ 2.5 hours)
Leadville, Colorado (16.6 miles/ 21 minutes)
Buena Vista, Colorado (20.8 miles/ 24 minutes)
Northern entry point on Route 25 at Twin Lakes Reservoir (Google Maps pin)

When to Hike the Collegiate Peaks Loop

This trail has a short weather window—consider it a summer trail with the possibility to finish up in very early fall. You’ll need to hike it after the snow melts in late June or early July, and finish before snow returns in October. August is a safe bet. I recommend checking local trail reports to make sure the 12,000 foot passes are snow-free. We encountered one frosty morning in early September, but were able to get by with summer sleeping bags (20-30 degrees). For anyone hiking after mid-September, warmer sleeping bags might be in order. If you’re using a water filter, you may want to sleep with it at night to keep it from freezing.

Collegiate Peaks Loop Terrain

Collegiate East is mostly below treeline on well-marked trails and a few Forest Service roads, with one 6-mile road walk. Collegiate West features long stretches of trail above treeline, making for great views but more risk during summer thunderstorm season. There are some rocky stretches on this section but nothing too difficult. Both East and West are well-blazed and require no route-finding, but we pulled out our maps at some intersections to check we were following the correct trail.

Collegiate Peaks Loop Trail Resupply Strategy 

The trail crosses the road and passes potential resupply stops at several locations. Our group was lucky, especially in the time of Covid-19, to have two friends in the area who brought us resupplies at predetermined spots. Depending on the length of your hike and how much you’re comfortable carrying, there are a few different options for Collegiate West. The most convenient resupply option for Collegiate West is a 30-minute hitch to Buena Vista via Cottonwood Pass. 

Mount Princeton Hot Springs: Hikers will pass by this resort on the one road walk at mile 114.6 on the CT. It has some snacks for purchase, will accept mail drops, and allows access to their hot springs for a fee. This is a good option for a first resupply on the Collegiate East side. 

Monarch Spur RV Park: The RV park accepts resupply boxes and is about one mile off the trail at CT mile 91.7, on the eastern side. There is a campsite here.  

Monarch Crest General Store: Also right on trail, the General Store is about halfway through the loop at the southern end. There are snacks to purchase (great ice cream!) and the store will accept mail drops. 

Cottonwood Pass West/ CPL Mile 35.7: County Road 306 / Cottonwood Pass is a frequently traveled road. The trail crosses this road twice, once each on Collegiate East and Collegiate West, and could provide a hitch to Buena Vista. This will be the most convenient place to resupply on all of Collegiate West. Hikers just starting out on Collegiate East may wish to resupply at Mount Princeton Hot Springs via a mail drop, right on the trail a bit farther down. The drive to Buena Vista from the western crossing is about 30 minutes / 18 miles.

Corruption Backcountry Outpost: Not currently open as of June 2021, but will be a potential resupply spot and hostel. 

Logistics: Camping, Navigation, Water

Navigation: Both halves of the trail are well-blazed with CT and/or CDT trail markers, but there were a few intersections where we pulled out maps to double-check the way. FarOut’s CT guide includes both Collegiate East and West, and there’s also a separate Collegiate Peaks Loop guide.

Water: Crowd-sourced comments left us with no worries about finding the next campsite or water source; both are abundant enough even later in the season that you can happen upon them easily.

Camping: The Collegiate Peaks Loop is mostly on National Forest land, so dispersed camping in well-used sites is the way to go. We looked ahead to about where we wanted to be at the end of each day and planned out a few campsite options based on FarOut.

Special Gear: Sun protection is vital. All members of our group were equipped with long-sleeved sun shirts, hats, sunglasses, and sunscreen. Light rain layers will be useful during brief, frequent afternoon thunderstorms. Temperatures drop at night, so be prepared with a down jacket, hat, gloves, fleece-lined pants, and a warm sleeping bag (20-degree is a safe bet), even during the height of the summer.

As for food storage, there are black bears to worry about, in addition to rodents like marmots, pika, and mice. Two members of our party hung their food each night but it was often a hassle to find the correct tree configuration to do so. I used an Ursack and had no issues, but have heard reports of bears chewing up the bag. The safest and easiest option is to use a bear canister. 

Know Before You Go

Think carefully about your fitness level, experience at altitude, and desire to hike side trails when planning out food and resupplies. This is already a challenging trail, and altitude makes everything harder. Err on the side of planning to hike more, shorter days so you can acclimate or explore a 14er or two. 

There are plenty of shorter options to explore this area. You can leave a car at both Twin Lakes and Monarch Crest and hike only Collegiate West, or set up a base camp on Collegiate East to hike nearby 14ers. 

Fires are usually banned all summer due to danger of wildfire, so plan on bringing a stove or cold soaking your meals. In the same vein, watch out for Forest Service alerts about closures due to fire or heavy smoke.

Make sure to bring a trowel to bury your poop 6-8 inches in the ground, at least 200 feet from the trail, water, or your camp. Plan to pack out all your toilet paper instead of burying it due to the dryness of the soil (it won’t decompose quickly). Pack out all other trash, too!

Collegiate Peaks Loop Additional Resources

The Colorado Trail Foundation’s guide 

FarOut Continental Divide Trail app

FarOut Colorado Trail app

CDT map set (free digital download)

Dru Falco (she/her) is an avid hiker, ultrarunner, and sunshine enthusiast. She caught the backpacking bug while in college in New Hampshire and has hiked 38% of all trail miles in the White Mountains. Dru drove out to Colorado from the East Coast in August 2020 planning to stay for a couple of months and hasn’t left. Currently, she’s working in outdoor education, section hiking the Colorado Trail, and running up as many mountains as possible. She posts a lot on Instagram @drus_iller. 

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The Uinta Highline Trail is a 104-mile high-elevation route with a high degree of physical difficulty but moderately easy logistics. It’s best hiked in the late summer/early fall, and can be accomplished in 5-10 days.

Region: Mountain West (Uinta Range, Utah) 
Distance: 104 miles (5-10 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Much of the trail is above 11,000 feet, with several passes over 12,000 feet 
• Weather in the Uinta is frequently stormy during the summer hiking window
• Some sections require attention to route finding

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Both termini, as well as those of alternates, are easily accessible though a shuttle is required for this point-to-point trail (3.5 hours, one-way)
• No permits are required for hiking in the Ashley or Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forests through the Uinta, though parking at the Highline Trailhead (western terminus) requires a self-serve parking permit ($12/7 days) or an America the Beautiful Federal Lands Pass must be displayed
• Hikers must be conscious of changing weather and high alpine conditions

Season: Summer, early Fall 
Average Elevation: 10,700 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 19,800 feet

Hiking the Uinta Highline Trail

The Uinta Highline is a 104-mile backpacking trail following the crest of the Uinta Range in Northeastern Utah from McKee Draw, off Highway 191 below Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area, west to the Mirror Lakes Highway. It takes you through Utah’s most scenic mountain terrain and highest peaks. Most of the trail is above treeline, which provides sweeping views and a consistent sense of awe as hikers travel over rocky passes, descend into lush basins, and glide by crystal blue alpine lakes. It will appeal to backpackers not looking for a serious time commitment, but still seeking solitude, big views, and rugged adventure, much of it off the beaten path. 

Starting from the eastern terminus at McKee Draw off Highway 191, hikers will experience anticipation for the vistas to come as much of the first 25 miles is densely forested and the trail is faint in some areas, criss-crossed with cattle tracks. Though generally well marked with cairns and occasional signage, hikers should pay close attention to navigation throughout this trail. The Uinta Highline becomes much more defined and easy to follow as it moves westbound. After 25 miles, hikers reach the Leidy Peak Trailhead and the beginning of the High Uinta (Alternate #1 would start hikers here for an ~80 mile trip, though with a longer shuttle). 

From there, the character of the trail changes from forest to high alpine. Massive peaks and ridges surround hikers as they move over eight passes over 11,000 feet that separate vast meadows, basins, and valleys carved by retreating glaciers. At mile 38, hikers reach Chepeta Dam Trailhead, which hikers could consider as Alternate #2. This alternate would leave a ~66-mile trip through the majority of the truly stunning terrain for hikers on a time crunch. From the trail’s high point at Anderson Pass (12,700 feet), it’s a quick 0.7-mile detour to King’s Peak, Utah’s highest point at 13,528 feet (Class 3 scramble).   

No permits are required for hiking the Uinta Highline Trail. To park at the western terminus at the Highline Trailhead, a self-serve parking permit is required ($12/7 days) or vehicles must display a valid America the Beautiful Federal Lands Pass. 

How to Get to the Uinta Highline Trail

Nearest City: Salt Lake City, Utah (78 miles from western terminus, 215 miles from eastern terminus). Closest towns to the termini are Vernal (eastern) and Kamas (western).

Western Terminus: Highline Trailhead near Hayden Pass
Eastern Terminus: McKee Draw

From Salt Lake City, it’s 215 driving miles to the eastern terminus of the Uinta Highline at McKee Draw, off Highway 191 between Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area and Vernal, Utah, and 78 miles to the western terminus at the Highline Trailhead along Mirror Lakes Highway. The shuttle between the trailheads is 3.5 hours each way. 

Shuttle: The simplest way to hike the Uinta Highline is to park a vehicle on either end and add half a day onto your itinerary for the shuttle. For locals in the Mountain West, this may involve bribing Salt Lake City friends with gas money and pizza. For those traveling to hike the Uinta Highline, there are shuttle services on the internet that can assist for a fee. The most reputable of these is Mountain Trails Transport (https://mountaintrailstransport.com/). 

Flying: Flying is an option into both Salt Lake City International Airport and Vernal Regional Airport (more expensive). A Greyhound bus travels daily between Salt Lake City and Denver, stopping in Vernal once per day, which may ease planning. From Vernal, hikers without ground transportation would need to hitchhike north on Highway 191 to McKee Draw (technically illegal in Utah, though straightforward in these areas). Hitchhiking to and from the western trailhead is even more straightforward and only requires catching a ride for the 29 miles between Kamas and the terminus. Kamas is connected by (free) bus to Park City and from there to Salt Lake City. 

When to Hike the Uinta Highline Trail

In an average snow year, the Uinta Highline is best hiked from mid-July to mid-September. Prior to mid-July, additional precautions may be necessary to account for lingering snowpack. After mid-September, winter could arrive any moment in the High Uinta. These dates are a good rule of thumb, but different years bring different snowpacks and hikers more comfortable with an ice axe may prefer hitting the trail sooner. July hikes will likely bring lingering snow, mosquito pressure, muddy trails, and daily thunderstorms. August hikes will lessen snow and mosquito pressure, but the storms remain. September brings far fewer thunderstorms, no bugs, but early season snow is always possible. Of additional note to out-of-season traversing plans, the Mirror Lakes Highway (western terminus) is closed from November to May each year. 

Uinta Highline Trail Terrain

Much of the Uinta Highline is above treeline and over 11,000 feet. Traveling westbound, the first 25 miles are mostly forested and dotted with meadows that are heavily grazed by cattle. The trail after passing Leidy Peak changes to high alpine. It travels over passes, crossing wide basins, valleys, and meadows between high points. Lower basins, like the one below Dead Horse Pass, are forested, whereas higher elevation basins, like Painter Basin, largely remain above treeline. The trail east of Leidy Peak is much fainter and requires attention to navigation while crossing heavily grazed meadows. Some of the passes are rocky, but the western three-quarters of the trail are mostly well-defined singletrack.

Logistics: Land Designation, Water, Special Gear, Permits

Land Designation: The Uinta Highline travels through the Ashley and Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forests with the western part of the trail contained within the High Uintas Wilderness. The U.S. Forest Service manages land under the Multiple Use mandate that allows activities like grazing and timber harvesting simultaneously with recreation. These activities are most pronounced on the Uinta Highline as it travels through the Ashley National Forest. After crossing into the High Uintas Wilderness, sheep grazing remains and it is a near certainty that hikers will encounter flocks of sheep. Designated wilderness is managed for a primitive and unconfined type of recreation and emphasizes solitude, which abounds on the UHT. Hikers should be respectful of one another and of the sensitive high-alpine terrain and follow Leave No Trace practice in activities such as campsite selection (camping only in already established campsites), human waste disposal (catholes at least 6 inches deep, pack out toilet paper, and consider portable waste containment bags though they are not a requirement), and respect for wildlife (the Uinta Range is black bear and moose territory and caution should be exercised in travel and food storage). Campfires are also prohibited in much of the alpine terrain of the UHT. If you plan on having fires, ensure you’re in a non-restricted area. A full list of wilderness regulations regarding fires, bear safety, group size, and other concerns can be found here.

Water: Water is plentiful over much of the trail as it passes by numerous lakes and creeks. However, do not expect water east of Leidy Peak, especially later in the season (first 25 miles, traveling westbound). West of Leidy Peak, it’s no concern. With the exception of the high passes, the UHT is heavily grazed by cattle and sheep so all water should be appropriately treated. 

Special Gear: Reliable rain gear is essential on the UHT as it receives daily thunderstorms over much of the summer hiking season. Early season hikers should consider gear such as microspikes and an ice axe, but unless it’s a particularly heavy snow year, these items shouldn’t be necessary after mid-July. If you’re on the fence about bringing this gear, focus your snow-level inquiry on the north side of Dead Horse Pass (a call to the Heber-Kamas Ranger District at 435-783-4338 should sort this out). Hikers should prepare for variable weather and temperature as well as have a firm knowledge of the route, and carry backup forms of navigation. Sun protection is essential on the UHT given its high average elevation. With a valid Utah fishing license, hikers may also want to consider bringing a fishing pole as the High Uinta has notoriously good fishing. 

Permits: No permits are required for hiking the Uinta Highline Trail. To park at the western terminus at the Highline Trailhead, a self-serve parking permit is required ($12/7 days) or vehicles must display a valid America the Beautiful Federal Lands Pass.

Know Before You Go

Keep an eye on the U.S. Forest Service announcements about wildfires in the area. Parts of the UHT were closed in late-August and September 2020 due to the active fire season. As with any high alpine travel, consideration of snow level and condition and abnormal weather patterns is essential. Ensure you’re geared up for snow and thunderstorms at any time of year and have well-communicated travel plans as cell service is nonexistent on the UHT (though there is Verizon signal on the summit of King’s Peak). Also be prepared for faint trail navigation, especially in the eastern section of the trail as it crosses meadows and open areas. Be aware of wildlife while hiking and camping as the Uinta Highline travels through black bear and moose territory. 

Resources

Information on Mirror Lakes Highway Recreation Passes

Shuttle service

On hitchhiking in Utah

Learn about wilderness designation

Information on bus travel:

https://www.parkcity.org/departments/transit-bus/routes-schedules

https://www.rideuta.com/Rider-Tools/Schedules-and-Maps/902-PC-SLC-Connect

https://www.greyhound.com/en-us/bus-from-salt-lake-city-to-vernal

Caleb Meyer (he/him) is a hiker and conservation social science researcher based in Northern Utah. In addition to countless hikes, backpacking trips, and other generous times in the outdoors, Caleb hiked the Pacific Crest Trail in 2019. In “the real world,” Caleb is a graduate researcher in the Institute of Outdoor Recreation and Tourism at Utah State University studying backcountry recreation, and works with the U.S. Forest Service on research related to National Scenic Trails. Prior to these roles, he worked in such places as Grand Teton National Park, Bears Ears National Monument, and Death Valley National Park. To follow adventures in backpacking and research, follow Caleb on Instagram: @topohikes. For research-specific questions, email at [email protected].

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The Four Pass Loop is a difficult, 28-mile loop trail located in the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness area in Central Colorado. The trail traverses four mountain passes over 12,000 feet and can be hiked in 3-5 days.

Region: Mountain West (Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness, Central Colorado) 
Distance: 28 miles (3-4 days) 

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• 7,752 feet of cumulative elevation gain 
• Several sections of 1,000+ feet of elevation gain / mile
• Much of the hike is above treeline, leading to greater exposure
• High average elevation

Logistical Difficulty: Difficult

• High elevation, narrow weather window
• Must plan to be over mountain passes by early afternoon to avoid thunderstorms
• The Forest Service began requiring permits for backcountry camping on Feb. 15, 2023.
• Accessing trailheads requires advance reservations for shuttle or parking or, alternatively, a 4WD vehicle

Season: Summer, Early Fall

Elevation (Average): ~11,000 feet
Starting Elevation: 9,580 feet
Max Elevation: 12,500 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 7,752 feet

Hiking the Four Pass Loop

This hike is basically nonstop views with a healthy amount of physical challenge. If you’re the type of backpacker who likes to be rewarded for your climbs with epic 360 mountain vistas, this is definitely the trip for you. 

You can camp at some of the most beautiful backcountry sites I’ve ever seen. Catching both sunset and sunrise at Snowmass Lake is the kind of thing bucket lists are made of—not to mention falling asleep to the sound of King Falls’ rushing water in Fravert Basin. 

That being said, these beautiful backcountry places aren’t reached without some backcountry effort. The climbs, especially up Trail Rider Pass (going clockwise), are enough to make your legs shake at sea level; add 12,000 feet of elevation into the equation and even fairly fit people will feel it’s a challenge. If you’re coming from sea level, a few days of acclimatization will make your trip much more enjoyable.

Most say it’s easier to do this loop clockwise, and that’s what I did. The trail itself is straightforward and well-marked so as long as you can follow a map, navigation shouldn’t be a challenge.

For backpackers who don’t mind needing a bit of logistical foresight—carrying a bear can or intense climbs—Four Pass Loop is a true treat with some of the best backcountry Colorado has to offer.  

How to get to the Four Pass Loop

Nearest City: Aspen, Colorado (10.8 miles) or Crested Butte, Colorado (14 miles) 
Maroon Lake Trailhead (when starting from Aspen)
West Maroon Trailhead (when starting from Crested Butte) 

While Four Pass Loop is obviously a loop and you will start and end at the same place, there are two trailheads to choose from and each presents its own logistical challenges. Pick your poison.

The more popular option, and the one I found easiest, is entering from Maroon Lake Trailhead, located about 10 miles outside of Aspen, Colorado. Due to the popularity of the trailhead (you’ve probably seen the lake on a few Colorado postcards), reservations are required to reach it whether you are driving yourself or taking a shuttle. Reservations and a lot of detailed information can be found at the Aspen Chamber website here. 

There are three options to consider when entering from Maroon Lake Trailhead:

1) Reserve a $10 round-trip shuttle in advance from Aspen Highlands Ski Area to the trailhead. The shuttle leaves every 15 minutes from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.. If you’re late it will leave without you and they will not let you on the next one. So be on time, or better yet, be early. I was able to get reservations about two weeks in advance for Fourth of July weekend, but they definitely fill up so it benefits you to plan ahead. You can park your car in the garage at Aspen Highlands, but it is $30 and can fill up (note: the garage says $30 maximum, and when I parked there that is all I was charged for 3 days; however, this could vary). Another option is to park at Ruby Park in downtown Aspen and take the free RFTA shuttle to Aspen Highlands (where you will catch the shuttle).

2) Have an awesome friend drop you off at the trailhead between 6 a.m. and 8 a.m. (the road is closed to private vehicles outside this window), and make sure you still get a $10 one-way ticket for the shuttle back to Aspen Highlands (and presumably if you don’t live there, a way to get back home after).

3) Reserve a $10/vehicle 2-night overnight parking permit that is good from 6 a.m. on your start date to 6 p.m. two days later (for 60 hours total). This allows you to park at the trailhead; however, you must arrive before 8 a.m. or after 5 p.m. because the road is closed to private vehicles during the day. 

Phew, I told you this trail had logistical challenges. If dealing with shuttles and parking reservations isn’t your bag and you have a high clearance, preferably 4WD vehicle, you can begin the trail from West Maroon Trailhead on the Crested Butte side. You’ll follow Gothic Road (CO 317) out of Crested Butte for 13 miles. It’s a dirt road and should be passable in most vehicles until you reach Gothic (about 7.9 miles in). After that, you will likely need a high clearance/4WD vehicle. Once you get to the trailhead, it’s about 3.1 miles of hiking to the junction where you will meet up with the Four Pass Loop (which you can take in either direction). 

When to Hike the Four Pass Loop

The best season to hike Four Pass Loop is summer, but you can successfully hike the trail in early fall with good weather. Because it is a high-altitude hike, it is covered in snow well into June and it’s very possible to encounter snow in July depending on the snowpack from the previous winter. For the best wild flowers, aim for August. If you can get good weather in early fall during the changing of the aspen leaves, it’s beautiful.

This hike is moderately trafficked, so hiking during the week will mean fewer crowds.

Another important factor to consider is thunderstorms. It is very common to encounter hail and lightning above treeline during the summer in the early afternoon–my personal rule for safety is to be back below treeline before noon (although it can storm earlier). Keeping an eye on the weather may also help you decide which direction to take the loop. Because the trail does not go back below treeline between West Maroon and Frigid Air Pass, you may want to knock out those two passes first if the weather looks nice, or last if not. My first day on the loop had a clear forecast so even though we started around 10 a.m., we decided to go for the first two passes that afternoon. Here’s my itinerary to show what a trip could look like (It’s important to note that I hiked the Four Pass Loop before overnight backcountry permits were required.):

Day 1: West Maroon Pass (12,490 feet) + Frigid Air Pass (12,405 feet)
I hiked about 14 miles from West Maroon Trailhead to our first campsite. 

Day 2: Trail Rider Pass (12,415 feet)
I hiked about 8 miles from camp over Trail Rider Pass, the steepest ascent of the trip. I highly recommend taking a short day and camping at Snowmass Lake.

Day 3: Buckskin Pass (12,462 feet)
On the final day I started early, made it up and over the pass before afternoon rain, and made it back to the trailhead with plenty of time to catch a shuttle back to the car.

Four Pass Loop Terrain

Four Pass Loop is a well-maintained, easy to follow trail. It’s mostly dirt with some rocky sections. It can become looser and rockier toward the top of the passes, but there is no route-finding involved (as long as the trail isn’t covered in snow). 

There are several stream crossings throughout the loop, so you should check with the Forest Service to see what the current trail conditions are like before you go. While I definitely got wet, the stream crossings were very moderate in July 2020 (a dry year for Colorado). 

During my trip, I did run into a couple of sections with dense avalanche debris. This can happen early in the season after an avalanche-prone winter—so just be ready to go a little slower and get creative navigating around trees. 

Four Pass Loop Logistics 

Camping and Permits: Four Pass Loop is located in the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness within White River National Forest. Starting Feb. 15, 2023, all overnight visitors must obtain a permit in advance. Permits and camping information can be obtained here. 

Water: There are ample water sources throughout the hike (several of which you will have to cross). The earlier in the season you go, the more water you will see due to snowmelt. The climbs are fairly exposed, so be sure to carry enough water to last you the climb.

Special Gear: Bear canisters or any IGBC approved bear-resistant container are required to hike Four Pass Loop. You will be ticketed and asked to leave if you don’t have one and in my experience I did encounter several rangers on the hike. 

In the early season or after a high snow year, it may help to have microspikes for snow patches on the high mountain passes.

Know Before You Go

The most important things to remember before hiking Four Pass Loop are checking what kind of snow levels you are dealing with and having your trailhead logistics sorted. Getting shuttles and parking requires some advanced planning.

Also, don’t forget to bring a bear can—a fed bear is a dead bear. The Forest Service also iterates it’s very important to have a plan for your human waste (aka your poop). They highly recommend considering WAG bags. WAG stands for Waste Alleviation and Gelling. A WAG bag is a disposable, sealable bag with some odor-destroying chemicals plus a chemical that turns your waste into a stable gel. All of which is to say, it’s better than pooping into a Ziploc bag. If you don’t use a WAG bag, please be sure to bury it 6 to 8 inches deep at least 200 feet from water, camp, and trails. 

Resources

Booking Shuttle or Parking Reservations

Getting a Permit and Camping Information

Camping Map

Overview from the Forest Service

IBGC-Approved Bear Canisters

How to Use a WAG Bag

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