Region: Pacific West (Death Valley National Park, California)

Distance: 30 miles (2-3 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Dry and exposed terrain
• Difficult to navigate through the terrain and across numerous game trails
• Water is very sparse and difficult to find; little info on current water conditions

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate 

• No resupplies to worry about
• Defined water stops
• Few alternates to make wrong turns within the canyons

Season: Winter

Elevation Gain: 7,200 feet

Max Elevation: 3,691 feet

This is the rough route for the loop, but with the difficulty, we want to encourage you to further plan and note where each water source is, the logistics of reaching it, and become familiar with the turns and nuances of the terrain that can all be seen on a topographic map.

Other important GPS points:

Hiking the Death Valley Four Springs Loop

The Death Valley Four Springs Loop is one of the most difficult routes on our website. Don’t be fooled by the shorter distance and the wide-open terrain. There is no defined trail, and only a series of large canyons to hike through connecting four springs in the foothills of Death Valley. This route is in the southern and more rugged section of the national park, where it is rare to see even another car on the road.

The water on the route is the most tedious, difficult, and unknown aspect. The springs are often little more than seeps and trampled through by the wildlife. During my time in Death Valley, I saw wild horses, jackrabbits, burros (donkeys), and goats. On this route, I saw 20 wild burros.

As the name would suggest, the Four Springs Loop links four springs. While knowing their reliability completely depends on the conditions, I was able to scoop water out of each of them in February. In the clockwise direction, the springs are in the following order: Lost Spring, Squaw Spring, Willow Spring, and Mesquite Spring. These springs are the backbone of the route. Squaw Spring proved to only be a muddy pit, but the other three had enough water to easily scoop out with a bottle.

The route starts off on Warm Springs Canyon Road at a small, rugged intersection with ample room to park (location here). It initially follows an old road and drops down into the start of Lost Spring Canyon. There is a junction where two canyons split and this is where the loop completes itself. So the choice is either to hike clockwise or counterclockwise. Since I traveled the loop clockwise, that is the direction this will follow. The canyon on the left is Lost Spring Canyon and it is fairly simple to navigate through the soft dirt. The footing isn’t great and there are a couple of places where the walls narrow, but as long as you stay within the canyon, it should lead up to Lost Spring.

Beyond Lost Spring the canyon narrows further and becomes more difficult to climb through with a backpack. But there are plenty of burro trails to follow to avoid the thick brush. As the route continues to climb, it becomes exceedingly easy to take a wrong turn, especially as you approach the pass. Over the pass, the route drops into Anvil Spring Canyon and follows it all the way up to Squaw Spring. The spring is on the side of a large hill with lots of vegetation, but I did not find the spring to be flowing very well.

From Squaw Spring there are defined burro trails that lead north and slowly swing more to the west. There are signs of use as the route nears Willow Spring. A spur off Warm Springs Canyon Road leads to Willow Spring and a firepit can be found at the spot. At this point in the route, the trip can be extended further west to Anvil Spring, and even up to Striped Butte. But if this is as far as you are hiking, head back through Anvil Spring Canyon toward Squaw Spring, but instead of heading south to the spring, veer north into another larger and flatter wash.

The wash will slowly grow more narrow until the walls are quite steep. Shortly after you will reach Mesquite Spring. Steep canyon walls continue all the way through until it opens back up again at the junction that previously took you farther south at the beginning of the route. Retrace the steps through the wide canyon and back to the old road and to your parked car.

How to Get to the Death Valley Four Springs Loop

Nearest City: Las Vegas, Nevada (131 miles)

The trail begins off Warm Springs Canyon Road in Death Valley National Park. This is where I parked my car to do the loop (link here). It is a long drive from any established cities or even gas stations, so be prepared to be remote. But, while you are in the remote corner of the park, it is worth checking out Warm Springs Camp.

Instead of driving up and through Death Valley Junction and the more developed portions of the park, it is much faster to drive into the park through Shoshone and into the southeast corner of the national park. At Ashford, Junction follows Warm Springs Road leading off to your left and then to the GPS coordinate. There is little to no cell service in the area, so bear in mind that all directions should be downloaded before entering Death Valley National Park.

When to Hike the Death Valley Four Springs Loop

Water is the main constraint in Death Valley. It is one of the driest places and the water that is in the desert is often saline and undrinkable. The little amount of water combined with the heat makes this a perfect winter backpacking trip. The temperatures remain cooler and the chances of still-flowing springs are much higher.

Death Valley National Park Four Springs Loop Terrain

The terrain is very dry and rugged. The washes are uneven, loose, soft, and taxing to navigate through. The miles in Death Valley National Park are much more difficult than trail miles simply because of the continual attention required and the taxing terrain.

Logistics: Direction, Land Management, Water

Loop Direction: I traveled this loop in a clockwise direction and it seemed to work well with the reliability of the springs and camping. It did take a scoop in order to use Squaw Spring, but in a clockwise direction, the first half of the trail is more difficult than the second half. But the route can be done successfully in either direction.

Land Management: Death Valley National Park manages the entire area. To backpack, users should issue themselves a free voluntary permit either online or at one of the two ranger stations.

Know Before You Go

Water Capacity: One of the biggest causes for concern on this loop is water, water capacity, and successfully treating the water that is out there. With water so sparse in most of Death Valley, the water sources are very busy with wildlife and often are not clean. This route is designed to link a series of water sources throughout the canyons in the foothills of the national park, and many burros were standing right in the middle of the sources as I came upon them. I carried three liters for doing the loop as an overnight, but if you are planning to be out there longer, I would recommend carrying more capacity.

Remoteness: The route is far from any major visitors centers and has no cell service. It is important to be prepared and consider taking a personal locator, GPS unit, or some type of messenger with the challenges that this route presents.

Additional Resources

Death Valley National Park Website

Death Valley National Park Maps

The post Death Valley Four Springs Loop appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

The Big SEKI Loop is a 155-mile loop in the High Sierra in California that can be modified in multiple ways. The route was created originally as an alternative to the John Muir Trail and can be hiked in 7-17 days.

Region: Pacific West (Sequoia-Kings Canyon National Park, California)

Distance: ~155 miles with options to modify (7-17 days) 

Physical Difficulty: Difficult 

• Steep climbs 
• Rugged, less maintained trail 
• Potential extreme weather

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Permits required; availability varies based on starting location 
• Loop trail with option to modify mileage
• Potential long food carries, with ability to resupply 

Season: Summer
Elevation (average): ~8,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: ~36,000 feet

Hiking the Big SEKI Loop 

The Big SEKI Loop was designed as an alternative to the popular John Muir Trail. Created by Amy and James of Doing Miles, using 58 miles of the JMT, a portion of the High Sierra Trail, and other less-known trails in Sequoia-Kings Canyon National Park, it covers some of the most spectacular views, and difficult climbs the park has to offer. When hiking the more popular established trails, signage, trail maintenance/markers, and water supply are rarely a concern. The less-traveled sections are full of bushwhacking while walking in ankle-deep water. Cairn finding is common heading up non-JMT passes, as are days without seeing other people. Regardless of what part of the trail, the climbs are often steep. Afternoon thunderstorms can be a fact of life. Snow and ice are possible in the earlier or later parts of the season, considering the trail reaches 13,100 feet elevation at Forester Pass. 

The loop can be started from inside the national park at Roads End, or from Onion Valley via Kearsarge Pass (adding 14 miles round trip), and can be traveled in either direction. Starting location/direction will influence permit logistics and resupply needs. I chose to start from Roads End, heading clockwise. This allowed me an easier-to-obtain permit and more options for modification if I needed to cut my hike short, and I was able to go with the flow of the majority of traffic on the JMT. Besides my extra miles to resupply I never had to leave the backcountry. 

The hike can be modified into a figure-8, or a northern and southern loop section, both loops being 80-90 miles. You can also choose your adventure regarding which pass to connect the loop. If you want to cut the loop in half, you can utilize the Bubbs Creek Trail, which runs almost directly across the center of the loop. This allows for flexibility in resupply options if you’d like to do shorter food carries/shorter mileage days/take on the adventure in sections. You can use Colby Pass for a shorter loop (~130 miles) or Elizabeth Pass (~155 miles) for the longer loop, both connecting back through Avalanche Pass and to Roads End. 

For logistical purposes, I’ll refer to things in the way I encountered them. Going clockwise, from Roads End, taking Elizabeth Pass, and back to Roads End.

The climb out of Roads End with a week’s worth of food was brutal, starting just as an afternoon storm rolled in.  Then the trail disappears … both off the map and in front of you. After Granite Pass, the only people I saw were NPS employees doing backcountry work. They asked if I was hiking the Big SEKI Loop or the Sierra High Route, as those are typically the only hikers they encountered. They also warned of an upcoming dry section. From here, the trail was short on switchbacks, and I was unable to gain much purchase. Water was also inaccessible until reaching the creek in Simpson Meadow.

It begins to flatten out in Simpson Meadow before reaching a junction, then quickly becomes overgrown on its way to join the JMT.  Water was flowing down the trail—the section I was warned “the trail is a creek.”

Once you connect with the JMT, the trail is more maintained and more traveled as it begins to climb the Golden Staircase heading for Mather Pass. This is followed by Pinchot, Glen, and Forester passes before leaving the JMT where it meets the High Sierra Trail (HST) at Wallace Creek. Sharing the trail with the HST, you descend into Junction Meadow, which is where you can shorten your trip by taking Colby Pass, or you can continue down the valley, following the river until Kern Hot Spring—a nice camping or lunch spot. You’ll find a cement tub—big enough for two if you’re friendly—with hot water piped in next to the raging Kern River. Note that this location burned in 2020 during the Rattlesnake fire. The privy, food storage lockers, and tub all survived thanks to the firefighters.

From Kern Hot Spring the trail quickly gains elevation toward Moraine Lake, or Upper Funston Meadow. If I was ready to camp, Moraine Lake would be my choice. Either direction, you end up back on the HST heading for Big Arroyo. The climb from Big Arroyo is slow and steady up toward Kaweah Gap, and Precipice Lake, made famous by Ansel Adams. The colors of this lake are incredible, and it offers a few rocky camping locations for those who need it.

For a less technical set-up, continue toward Hamilton Lakes. A popular backcountry destination, Hamilton Lakes has incredible scenery but limits the stay to one night. There is a privy located here, and be sure to tuck away trekking poles, sweaty clothing, and gear the deer may chew on.

Shortly after descending from Hamilton Lakes, the trail turns to leave the HST and follows the trail toward Elizabeth Pass. There is not much in the way of camp spots until you reach the turnoff for Tamarack Lake about 3.5 miles before Elizabeth Pass. Here is another area that sees much less trail work. It is often overgrown, and marked solely by cairns getting closer to the pass. Once over the pass, follow granite switchbacks into Deadman’s Canyon. This was possibly one of my favorite parts on the trail, and I shared it with no one.

Once out of the glaciated canyon, you arrive at the backcountry Roaring River Ranger Station. This is where the Colby Pass variation reconnects. From here the signage is pretty clear directing you to Avalanche Pass, another pass mostly marked by rock cairns. When descending, keep an eye out for some of the more impressive trail work I’ve ever seen in the Sierra.

Utilizing the Bubbs Creek Trail, the descent comes quickly until you are just miles from Roads End.

*At the time of this writing in fall 2021 there are wildfires in the park, adjacent to portions of the trail the loop utilizes. Further burn scars may overlap this loop as a result. 

Big SEKI Loop Permits

Permits are required for backcountry travel within Sequoia/Kings Canyon. The starting location impacts who issues your permit. They are $5 per person, and usually have a recreation/reservation fee of around $10. 

The reservations for permits open on a six-month rolling window. (Permits for July 25 open January 25). Whether you need one from the national park or the US Forest Service, both can be found on Recreation.gov. Permits from the national park side can be reserved six months to one week before the start of your hike. The permit will need to be picked up in person by the leader or designated alternate listed on the reservation, from the ranger station before the start of your hike.

You’ll be asked for an itinerary, though the park does not hold you to it, and you are allowed to modify when obtaining your permit. The website may require you to list the first night of camping to book your reservation. A limited number of walk-up permits may be issued to hikers without reservations on a first-come, first-served basis. 

From mid-May to late September, trailhead entries are quota-based. During non-quota season, permits are still obtained similarly, just without limits on the number of people starting on any given day. 

If you start from Roads End, going clockwise you would need a permit starting from Copper Creek. There is often availability for walk-ups. This trailhead is mostly used for people hiking this loop, or for hikers to access the Sierra High Route. 

If you want to go counterclockwise, you need a Bubbs Creek permit. This is much more coveted as it is a starting location for the Rae Lakes Loop, a popular backpacking loop in Kings Canyon. 

If you want to start from Onion Valley, you need a permit for Kearsarge Pass from the US Forest Service. 

How to Get to the Big SEKI Loop 

Nearest City to Western Trailhead: Fresno, California (90 miles) 

Nearest City to Eastern Trailhead: Independence, California (14 miles)

Trailhead / Roads End ($35 entry fee per car; entrance pass)

Trailhead / Onion Valley 

Since the loop can be accessed from either side of the Sierra Nevada, there are technically two trailheads. Onion Valley is a short drive off US Highway 395, while Roads End is a long and winding road that takes you deep into the park until you dead-end at the ranger station. You are allowed to park long-term at both locations without a fee. This makes it easy to park your car and simply hike back to it. If you prefer to not leave a car, public transportation can get you into Independence, and a hitch or shuttle can take you up to the campground at Onion Valley.

If heading for Roads End, follow State Route180 until it dead-ends at the ranger station. After picking up your permit, the trail begins just behind the ranger station, climbing upward toward Copper Creek. You have to reach Tent Meadow before you are allowed to set up camp, about 5 miles into the hike. The climb from Roads End feels practically straight up, from 5,000 feet to 11,000 feet over 11 miles. 

When to Hike the Big SEKI Loop 

Summer is the best time to hike the Big SEKI Loop. With passes often at or above 11,000 feet, snow and icy conditions are likely during shoulder season attempts. Late or early- season snowfall is possible. June may have lingering snow, July is the peak for wildflowers (and mosquitoes), and in August both flowers and bugs are declining. Fall foliage is possible to spot in September. It’s important to note the park has had fire closures and restrictions starting in mid to late summer for the past several years.

Summer in the Sierra Nevada generally means midday thunderstorms, so setting yourself up to be over passes early in your day will be the safest bet. Crowding can be a consideration on parts that the trail that share the hiker superhighway of the JMT/PCT, and there are often areas that restrict camping for the sake of restoration. It’s not a concern on less-traveled sections of this trail.

Big SEKI Loop Trail Terrain 

The sections of trail on the JMT are well-maintained, from aspen forests to granite staircases snaking through mountain passes. The burn scar in the Kern Valley is short but harsh. The climb from Copper Creek is steep and strenuous. Some of the passes are marked almost entirely by rock cairns, or the trail has been completely overgrown. Where it isn’t overgrown, it is likely washed out. Repairs for blowouts or downed bridges potentially take all hiking season or longer. Some water crossings have built-in structures to cross, others do not or they have been washed out. These crossings can be dangerous during high snow years or any time the water current is strong. The last few miles to a pass may be lacking water sources late in the season or in dry years. 

Big SEKI Loop Resupply Strategy 

It’s possible to do the trail in a single food carry depending on how fast you hike, and how much food you need to bring. One big caveat: it all needs to fit in a park-approved bear canister. If you want to resupply for your hike you have a few options. The two trailhead options lie roughly halfway through the loop, making it an obvious resupply. If you have a very kind friend, they might be willing to hike in to deliver your food. 

Mule-packing companies can bring a resupply to you on the trail, and there are businesses in Independence that will accept your mail drop. These companies sometimes offer rides to and from the trailhead. It is an additional 14 miles round trip from the trail to Onion Valley trailhead. It’s possible to send something general delivery mail to Independence, get a hitch into town, and back to the trailhead, and I was offered a ride into town quickly.

I would recommend sending a mail drop, as the town is small and doesn’t offer much in the way of grocery stores. Local options include a food mart and gas stations that carry typical hiker food as well as fuel. The closest town to get a full-sized chain grocery store resupply in would be Bishop, 40 miles away. 

If you start in Onion Valley, you could bribe someone to bring you a resupply at Roads End but logistically it might be easier to just double back using Bubbs Creek to create a figure 8, back to Onion Valley (and your car if you left it there) to resupply yourself. 

I resupplied with Mt. Williamson Motel, sending my bucket ahead. They have the option of staying overnight at the motel, or they can pick you up from the trailhead, drive you to the town where your mail is waiting, and drop you back off at Onion Valley later that evening. 

Logistics: Camping, Permits, Land Management, Water, Gear

Camping and Permits: You need a backcountry permit—issued from the Forest Service or the national park depending on point of entry—for the entirety of the trail. Your reservation is not the permit. The permit will be issued by the rangers the day before or the day of your hike. The cost is $5 per person, and often a recreation/reservation fee of $6-$10. 

You also need a free California CampFire permit if you plan to use your stove or have any open flame on the trail. These can be obtained online after watching a short video and taking a quiz. 

Camping along trails is permitted at established campsites 200 feet from the water. If they are established sites within 25-100 feet of water, Sequoia-Kings Canyon allows you to camp there. There are certain lakes or areas that have either night limit restrictions or restrict camping entirely for restoration. These are marked by signs on the trail and in those locations. It’s unlikely you’ll find an enjoyable campsite the last mile before a pass. 

What Type of Land: All of the Big SEKI Loop is national park land, with the exception being if you enter or resupply through Kearsarge Pass to Onion Valley.

Water: Water is plentiful on the sections of the JMT/PCT, and most of the HST. There are a few longer carries that the park service warned me about. It can be dry coming over Granite Basin after leaving Copper Creek. After leaving Dougherty Creek, it’s very dry until Simpson Meadow. You then follow a water source to the JMT. Once you leave the HST for either Elizabeth Pass or Colby Pass, it would be best to fill up. The water sources are often dry the last 3 miles to the pass and are sometimes dry for a while on the other side. I took Elizabeth Pass, and there was a 4-mile carry in July when I hiked. 

Special Gear: A bear canister is required. All of your food and scented items must fit inside. I utilized a sun umbrella and found it helpful on the exposed climbs. It also came in handy during the daily thunderstorms that occurred. Bring some form of rain gear, just in case. I enjoyed having water shoes for when the trail turned into a creek, or when having to cross one of the many river inlets. 

Know Before You Go

Wildlife: Bears are present on the trail, so adequate park-approved storage containers are a must. 

Weather: Be prepared for all weather conditions, and assume thunder and lightning storms will occur during summer afternoons.

Water Crossings: Always take the time to find appropriate crossings across creeks and rivers if there isn’t a secured bridge. 

Fire Season: Be aware of fire or smoke conditions for later summer hikes. 

Not for the Faint of Heart: This is not a trail I’d recommend for beginners or people uncomfortable with some wayfinding. It isn’t an easy stroll, and the trail when well maintained is steep, rugged, and difficult hiking. The less-maintained trail is steep, rugged, overgrown, eroded, or not well-marked. The parts that share popular trails are well-trafficked, creating a safety net. However, the lesser-known parts of the park you get to explore, I often saw no one, or sometimes more trail crew workers than fellow backpackers. This is probably good since in places the trail is very overgrown. I don’t want to sound discouraging for anyone who wishes to attempt the loop—it’s been one of my favorite backpacking trips to date. I just want to be transparent on what to anticipate. 

Plan to Pick Up Your Permit in Person: Your online reservation is not your permit; an official permit will be issued at the time of pickup. The afternoon before, or on the start date. Most offices close by 3 p.m. If you plan to pick up from Roads End the day before your hike, account for a lot of drive time.  Information regarding pickup procedures was sent to me a week or so before my start date.

Fees: Entry into national parks is $35 per car, in addition to your backcountry permit fee. Or free with an America the Beautiful Pass. Backcountry permit fees are paid at the time of reservation.

Big SEKI Loop Resources

National Park Service SEKI

Permits from NPS 

Permits from USFS (Onion Valley)

Mt Williamson Motel and Basecamp  

Eastern Sierra Transit for public transportation on the eastern side 

Molly Boyer (She/They) lives and recreates most often in California. She enjoys solo backpacking, as well as showing people the joy of backpacking for the first time. When not hiking they can likely be found swimming in a mountain lake, doing aerial arts, or just cuddling with their dogs. You can follow along for future outdoor adventures and some blasts from the past on Instagram @MountainsWithMolly 

The post Big SEKI (Sequoia/Kings Canyon) Loop appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

The Lost Coast Trail is a 26.4-mile point-to-point backpacking route along California’s North Coast. It is a rugged trail that traverses sandy beaches, boulder fields, and coastal bluffs, and it can be hiked in 2-3 days

Region: Pacific West (King Range National Conservation Area, California)
Distance: 26.4 miles (2-3 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate 

Logistical Difficulty: Difficult 

Season: Year-round
Elevation (average): Sea level
Total Elevation Gain: 1,000 feet

Hiking the Lost Coast Trail

The Lost Coast Trail covers 25 miles of undeveloped coastal wilderness, only 5 hours north of the San Francisco Bay Area. This hike is moderately strenuous and is perfect for the hiker who loves a logistical challenge. Starting at Mattole Beach and ending at Black Sands Beach, you will experience breathtaking views of the coast, including the Punta Gorda lighthouse (decommissioned in 1951), bountiful tide pools, and a lively colony of elephant seals. 

Based on the strong wind coming from the north, it is usually recommended that hikers follow the trail from north to south. However, if you are looking for a quieter wilderness experience, hiking from south to north may offer you the opportunity to hike and camp away from other groups and is a totally viable option. Each creek offers drastically different camping experiences, from the sunrises and sunsets to the wildlife that frequent that specific stretch of coastline. Wildlife that are often encountered along the trail include sea birds, sea lions, elephant seals, harbor seals, river otters, black bears, blacktail deer, and the occasional Roosevelt elk.

During the summer of 2021, I spent collectively over a month on the Lost Coast Trail as a volunteer. I have hiked a variety of routes utilizing many different trailheads, in various weather conditions, with drastically different itineraries. My most enjoyable jaunt on the LCT, however, was hiking from Mattole to Black Sands with my brother in just a day and a half. 

Lost Coast Trail Permits

Wilderness permits are required for any overnight stay in the King Range Wilderness and can be obtained through Recreation.gov. Permits for the entire year (October to October) are released on October 1 at 7am PST, and the summer season is typically booked within a few hours. One person can reserve up to 5 permits for their group. When reserving a permit online, you will need to know which trailheads you plan to enter and exit at and a nightly itinerary for where you plan to camp. While this information is required for the online process, your selections are only used for safety purposes, in case of missing persons reports, or accidents, and will not be enforced by BLM rangers. Once you enter the wilderness area, you have “hiker’s discretion,” meaning that you can choose to hike as far as you want or camp wherever you choose (as long as it is 10 feet above the high tide line). Additionally, this means that you can stay in the King Range Wilderness area for up to 14 days after your permit start date. If you love it out there, extend your trip and explore one of the many inland routes!

Because permits sell out quickly, many attempt to start their hike a few days before or after their permit start date, assuming that they can do so legally. However, the permit system used by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) in this region allows for 60 people to enter per day during peak season (May 15 to September 15) and 30 people to enter per day during non-peak season (September 16 to May 14). This means that if you attempt to start your hike on any day other than your permit start date, your permit is invalid and you may be ticketed by a BLM ranger stationed at either trailhead. The Lost Coast is on an extremely narrow sliver of coastline, therefore the impact that over-recreation has on the landscape can be extreme. If too many people attempt to start on a specific date, they will most likely get stuck at the same camping areas by the tides, resulting in overcrowding and damage to the resource area. 

The biggest piece of advice that I can offer regarding permits is to check the predicted tides for your preferred dates! Many people don’t know that tide predictions are extremely accurate (even a year or more in advance) and can allow you to mitigate unfavorable tidal conditions by choosing days with low tides under 3 feet and slow tidal swings. Here’s the Lost Coast Trail permit page.

How to get to the Lost Coast Trail

Nearest City: Eureka, California (50 miles)

Mattole Beach Trailhead

Black Sands Beach Trailhead

The most popular option to navigate this point-to-point route is hiring a shuttle service. These services are privately operated and are not affiliated with the BLM. It is recommended that you book your shuttle far in advance in order to guarantee a spot. Typically, prices are about $100 per person. (Expensive, yes, but definitely worth it to most folks.) Usually, hikers will meet their shuttle drivers early in the morning at Black Sands Beach day use parking lot, where they will leave their car, and be driven along unmaintained, windy dirt roads for two hours to start at Mattole Trailhead.

There are three services that are legally insured to shuttle hikers between trailheads along the Lost Coast:

• Lost Coast Adventure Tours
• Mendo Insider Tours
• Bill’s Lost Coast Shuttle Service: 707-442-1983

If you’re a fan of long car rides, have an extra day to station your cars before you start your hike, and would prefer to save your money, you may also consider the method of leaving a car at each trailhead. The biggest thing to consider in this option is your vehicle’s ability to drive on windy, unpaved mountain roads for hours. 

1. If you have a high-clearance vehicle (4WD/AWD recommended, necessary in the winter), you may choose to take this route between trailheads. (About 2 hours). This is also the route that the shuttle drivers will take. *Note: I have never driven my personal vehicle on Ettersburg Road or Wilder Ridge Road, and I would recommend that people from out of the area choose the second option that follows the 101. MAP IT HERE

2. If your vehicle does not have high clearance, you will need to take this route between trailheads. (About 2 hours, 40 minutes). This is my preferred route and the route I suggest to all visitors from out of town. There will still be some unpaved sections along Mattole Road, but nothing unmanageable. MAP IT HERE

Accessing the coast from any other inland trailhead requires high-clearance AWD vehicles to navigate the unmaintained and unpaved roads within the King Range. It is also worth noting that cell phone service is usually unavailable and that AAA will not be able to reach your vehicle in case of an emergency. 

Another option is organizing up a key-swap with hikers who are hiking the opposite direction as you. I have no personal experience with this, but it seems to be a fairly popular option for some trusting individuals. If this is something you would consider, you may have luck finding a buddy in the Facebook group Lost Coast Trail CA.

Lastly, you may very well choose to hike out-and-back. More power to you!

When to Hike the Lost Coast Trail

While this hike is accessible year round, I would suggest reserving a permit for the spring season to enjoy the blue skies, wildflowers, and baby elephant seals. The most popular time to hike the Lost Coast Trail is during the summer, resulting in more human interaction. There are never crowds along the LCT, but you are likely to run into larger groups of people when you arrive at your camping area for the night. Additionally, the King Range usually goes into its first level of fire restrictions in July, but as early as June. In 2021, campfires were allowed on the LCT until mid-July, and all open flames and camp stoves were banned on August 11. The fall season (through November) may also be impacted by the summer’s burn ban. In the winter, storms offshore cause hazardous ocean conditions that increase risks associated with hiking along the coast. It is also worth noting that this area of Humboldt County typically receives 50-70 inches of rainfall annually, most of which comes down in the late fall-early spring. 

Your itinerary will be mostly dependent on your ability to hike through each impassable zone during a low-tide window. The following itinerary is a common way to break up the hike, but every single person’s hike is different based on the conditions. Impassable zones and tides will be discussed in detail in the section “Trail Terrain.” Additionally, this hike can certainly be completed in a single day if the tidal conditions are in your favor and you can get through both impassable zones at a low tide. Many people travel slowly along the LCT in order to enjoy the coastal scenery, taking as long as a week to complete their hike. 

Day 1: Mattole Beach Trailhead to Cooskie Creek (6.8 miles)

• This section of the trail is entirely along sandy beach or slippery boulders, so anticipate a slower pace. (1.5 mph)
• You will pass the impassable point at Punta Gorda and hike halfway through the northern impassable zone. Fear not, Cooskie Creek offers a safe creek valley for camping where you will be safe from the tide. 
• You can also hike up Cooskie Creek to find hidden campsites and a small swimming hole early in the summer season. 
• River otter activity here is common and you may see them hunting and swimming in the creek in the early morning. 

Day 2: Cooskie Creek to Miller Flat/Big Flat (9.8 miles)

• For the first 2 miles, you will be finishing the northern impassable zone and hiking in sand. Be sure to start your hike when the tide is receding. There is a “pinch point” at Randall Creek that may require you to run around a rocky outcropping to avoid being hit by a wave. Be sure that when you reach Randall Creek the tide is under 3 feet, or you will not make it past the pinch point. 
• The remaining 7.8 miles are on a bluff above the beach. Here, you will not need to worry about the tides, because you are at least 20 feet above sea level. Bonus: You will be able to pick up your pace along the compacted, flat trail. 
• When you reach Big Flat Creek, you will have many camping options. The north side of the creek is considered Big Flat, and the south side is considered Miller Flat. 
• By camping here, you will be setting yourself up well to hike through the southern impassable zone the following morning during low tide. 
• Note: There is a private residence at Big Flat, and they often host yoga retreats. If camping alongside a group of yogis isn’t your desired wilderness experience, camp on the south side of the creek at Miller Flat. 

Day 3: Miller Flat to Black Sands Beach Trailhead (8.5 miles)

• Your first mile will continue along the bluff before dropping you back onto the beach just north of Shipman Creek. This is the beginning of the southern impassable zone, and it continues south on to Gitchell Creek.
• For this section, be sure to hike during a receding tide and reach Gitchell Creek while the tide is below 3 feet. 
• Once you’ve reached Gitchell, you can slowly meander and enjoy the remainder of your hike to Black Sands, due to the wide stretch of beach in the southern section. 
• Keep an eye out for bear tracks along the beach if you’re traveling in the early morning!

Lost Coast Trail Terrain 

The terrain of the LCT is the most precarious and challenging aspect of this route. The northern and southern sections follow the coastline, while the middle section (Randall Creek to Miller Flat) follows a bluff trail above sea level. Along the coastal sections, you will spend most of your time hiking through sand or jumping through boulder fields. In the middle bluff section, you will walk through overgrown lupine and poison oak before it opens up to a flat, grassy prairie. There are shallow creek crossings every mile or so, but you will probably be able to stay dry by rock hopping. Due to the sandy and rocky terrain, it is recommended that hikers plan for a slower pace of 1.5 mph.

When traveling along the beach, one needs to plan to pass through the 3 impassable zones at specific times in order to mitigate the danger of rising tides trapping you along the cliffside. 

1. The northernmost “impassable point” is located 2.4 miles south of the Mattole trailhead. If the tide is higher than 5.5 feet, the rocks along Punta Gorda will all be underwater, making that spot impassable. A tide lower than 5.5 feet will allow you to safely hike past this point. 
2. The northern “impassable zone” is located between Sea Lion Gulch and Randall Creek. Start hiking this section on a receding tide, and be sure to reach Randall Creek while the tide is lower than 3 feet. If the tide is higher than 3 feet, you will not be able to hike around the rocky outcropping located at Randall Creek. 
3. The southern “impassable zone” is located between Big Flat and Gitchell Creek. This section should also be hiked on a receding tide. Most of this section is a fairly narrow strip of beach, so aim to hike this entire section while the tide is below 3 feet. 

Lost Coast Trail Resupply Strategy 

The LCT is short enough to not require a resupply strategy. Be sure to carry a hard-sided bear canister large enough to fit all food, trash, and scented items! 

Logistics: Land Management, Water, Special Gear

What type of land: The entirety of the Lost Coast Trail is located within the King Range Wilderness, meaning that you are held to all wilderness rules and regulations. This area is managed by the Bureau of Land Management. Dogs are allowed to use this trail, but must remain leashed near the Punta Gorda lighthouse when passing the elephant seal colony. 

Water: One of the most convenient aspects of the LCT is the availability of water year round. Hikers will encounter a running creek about every mile or two along the coast, minimizing the need to carry an excess of water. As temperatures rise and flows decrease, some of the creeks may grow algae in the shallow parts closest to the ocean. If this is the case, simply hike up the creek a bit to reach fresh, flowing water. All water along the Lost Coast must be filtered before consumption. 

Special Gear: The one piece of gear that has saved me on the LCT a countless amount of times is a good pair of trekking poles. Whether you’re pulling yourself through the sand or balancing yourself while hopping between boulders, a pair of poles is essential. Many hikers also choose to wear gaiters for the sand, creek crossings, ticks, and poison oak. 

Know Before You Go

Due to the intense planning process, this trail is best suited for experienced backpackers who are very comfortable with organizing logistics and researching.

You need to pass through the impassable zones at receding tides lower than 3 feet. If you are having a difficult time understanding the tide charts for your dates, you should call the BLM King Range Project Office to have a ranger answer your questions at 707-986-5400. This is not something you should just “wing”; understanding the coastline and tides is necessary in order to safely navigate this route. 

Ticks, poison oak, and rattlesnakes are three of the most common concerns among LCT hikers. If you are sleeping without a closed tent, consider treating your gear with permethrin to ward off the ticks. Rattlesnakes can be found as close as a few feet away from the ocean and will be lethargic in the early mornings, so they may not rattle. Keep your eyes open, and always kick pieces of driftwood before taking a seat. 

While you may see a number of large driftwood structures along the beach, please help maintain the wilderness and do not build any. People tend to hide their trash inside them, which attracts rodents and rattlesnakes.

Fire restrictions are usually put into place in midsummer. If you are hiking between July-November, be prepared to eat meals without the use of a camping stove. 

The black bear population in the King Range is very healthy, which is why you are required to carry a hard-sided bear canister on all overnight trips in the wilderness area. Bear canisters can be rented for $5 from the BLM King Range Project Office in Whitethorn, from your shuttle driver, or from the Petrolia Store. 

While dogs are allowed on the trail, they often struggle with the terrain. If you are planning on bringing your pup, you should also bring them a pair of booties for the hot sand. 

Because the LCT is on such a narrow strip of land, you are supposed to dig your catholes in the intertidal zone, not up the creek valleys. This offers some of the most beautiful cathole views imaginable! 

Lost Coast Trail Resources

Shuttles:

• Lost Coast Adventure Tours
• Mendo Insider Tours
• Bill’s Lost Coast Shuttle Service: 707-442-1983

The App Avenza has downloadable maps of the Lost Coast Trail, which is the exact same version distributed by the BLM. This allows you to see yourself in real time on the map and easily navigate along the outlined impassable zones. 

Official Lost Coast Trail map

Most reliable website for checking the tides

The Lost Coast Trail CA Facebook group is a good resource for those with questions from other hikers. Group members often coordinate permit cancellations with each other to allow others to claim them promptly. 

Kacie Hallahan lives and recreates behind the Redwood Curtain of Northern California. She worked as a BLM wilderness ranger on the Lost Coast, hiking the entirety of the trail every week for 10 weeks. Follow her on Instagram for more of her adventures @idkacie.

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The Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness Loop is a 56-mile trail in southeast Washington best hiked over 4-5 days. It features wildflowers, forested canyons, ridge walks, and solitude—a nice change of scenery from the rock and ice of the Cascades. This loop is hikeable earlier in the season than much of Washington’s high country.

Region: Pacific West (Umatilla National Forest, Southeast Washington)
Distance: 56 miles (4-5 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult 

• Cumulative total climbing in certain areas can be punishing if done in a day
• Sections of trail through burned areas
• Infrequently maintained sections of trail that can be overgrown and/or faint and hard to follow

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Limited water on ridge sections
• Unsigned junctions and faint sections of trail
• No permits required for hiking this trail

Season: Summer, Fall

Elevation (average): ~4,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 9,550 feet

Permits: Other than a Northwest Forest Pass for parking at the trailhead, there are no permits required for this hike. That said, always practice Leave No Trace and do your part to preserve the wilderness experience for other users.

Hiking the Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness Loop

If you’re looking for an excellent long-weekend adventure in Washington at its peak when much of the Cascadian high country is still melting out, then look no further. A bit of the trail even dips into Oregon, so you can revel in the accomplishment of having hiked in two states on a single trip. The Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness is about as uncrowded as it gets for outdoor recreation in the Evergreen State, so be ready for solitude and to follow indistinct trails to unsigned junctions at times. There are few sections of this trail where you can really zone out and go on autopilot, but you’ll be rewarded with lovely wildflowers, forested canyons, and great views.

This trail isn’t for everyone. If you’re only into “epic” mountains, prefer well-maintained trails, and are looking for the same outdoorsy Instagram shots that everyone else is posting, then you might want to skip this one. But if you want solitude, beautiful-yet-subtle scenery, and the chance to explore a unique landscape, you’re in the right place.

Starting from the Panjab Trailhead, you follow the Panjab Trail uphill for 5.5 miles and steadily gain 2,500 feet of elevation. Some sections of this trail can get muddy and as you near the top you’ll need to stay diligent to not get sidetracked by trails leading to outfitter camps (this area is popular with elk hunters in fall). This trail emerges into the forest in a large and beautiful meadow, but there are little navigational clues to direct you. By hiking through the meadow in a southeasterly direction, you will eventually cross another trail and stumble upon the junction with the trail to Dunlap Spring in the Indian Corral area. These landmarks should help you gain your bearings and, until hiking up to Smooth Ridge from Fairview Bar (not that type of bar), most of the navigation should be pretty straightforward.

Continuing east on a well-defined trail, you pass several springs to keep your water reserves full. Clover Spring is especially scenic, as are others later in the loop, as it has been routed to flow into a hewn-out log. Most of the springs are easy to find and are either trailside or have obvious side trails. Options for camping along this section are relatively plentiful and the views are expansive on a clear day.

After Sheepshead Spring, make a sharp turn to the south at an easy-to-miss-junction toward Crooked Creek. Although signed, the sign is small and so weathered that it blends into the tree. Descend this trail for several miles (it is steep and offers little shade, so it is probably best to go down rather than up). When you’re almost to the bottom, a small arch off to the side offers a geological point of interest.

Crooked Creek provides good fishing for native redband rainbow trout, so if you brought along a rod you might consider camping here to maximize your time. Otherwise, the trail continues downstream to the Wenaha River (the ford of Crooked Creek can be challenging early in the year, but a bridge is planned to be installed soon). The next few miles of trail are still recovering from the 2015 fire and aren’t very scenic. The burnt terrain and scorched trees waiting to fall also make this an undesirable location to camp, so planning to camp before or after this section is best. The trail climbs up from the river to Smooth Ridge and then makes its way back toward the Panjab Trail passing numerous springs, meadows, and a side trip to Oregon Butte Lookout.

How to get to the Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness Loop

Nearest City: Pomeroy, Washington (32 miles)
Trailhead here

The Panjab Trailhead is easy to find and is accessible earlier in the hiking season than alternative trailheads for this loop. The road leading to the trailhead is a good gravel road and any passenger car can drive it with no concern. Since this is a loop, you’ll end up back at your car, so there are no shuttles or road walks to contend with.

This trailhead is far away from any population centers, but wherever you’re coming from you’ll need to be on Hwy. 12 to access one of the roads leading to the trailhead. The most straightforward way (and quickest, if you’re coming from the west) is to take Hwy. 12 to the junction with the Tucannon River Road. This is roughly 23 miles west of Pomeroy. Once you turn onto Tucannon River Road from Hwy. 12, follow it for 32 miles and take a right at a fork onto Forest Road 4713. This road leads to the trailhead after another three miles.

When to Hike the Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness Loop

Mid-to-late June is an ideal time to hike the Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness Loop. This is when I hiked it, and it was ideal. Wildflowers are blooming, temperatures are relatively mild, and few other people are out enjoying the wilderness trails (the area is popular with elk hunters in fall, but otherwise sees little recreational use). The only downside is that since you’re hiking early in the season, you’ll likely be hiking before trail crews have been able to do much work so be prepared for some downfall in places (especially recently burned sections).

Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness Loop Trail Terrain 

From muddy uphill climbs to lovely strolls through wildflower-packed meadows, and pleasant forest walks to dusty and sunbaked descents, this trail has a mix of everything. Although several spots leave much to be desired in the trail conditions category, the sections that aren’t ideal are usually over before they become too annoying. The most frustrating sections are those through recently burned areas (faint / indiscernible trail, downfall, etc.), but the Umatilla National Forest and the Washington Trails Association have been working to restore these trails so hopefully conditions will improve as time goes on.

Logistics: Land Management, Water, Gear

What Type of Land: The trail is within the Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness and is managed by the Umatilla National Forest. Junctions are often unsigned and trail maintenance often leaves a bit to be desired. 

Water: Crooked Creek, Melton Creek, and the Wenaha River are reliable water sources. Along the ridgetop sections, there are several springs that allow you to keep water carries to a minimum. Most of these are marked on maps, sometimes signed, and generally easy to spot, but you will want to make sure you don’t inadvertently pass them by if you’re running low on water as it can often be several miles between them.   

Special Gear: Gaiters are useful on this trail in the overgrown and burned sections. Otherwise, no special gear is required—although you might consider packing some extra patience in case you lose the trail and have to retrace your steps! 

Know Before You Go

Navigation: Aside from having general backpacking skills, you’ll likely want to have intermediate navigational skills for the Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness Loop. A paper map is sufficient, but a GPS might save you some frustration in areas where the trail grows faint or disappears altogether in a burned section.

Additional Resources

The Washington Trails Association’s online hiking guide: Perhaps the best place to look for information on recent trail conditions. They also organization trail work in this area to help improve the conditions–and after hiking this trail, I’m guessing you’ll agree that most sections need some improvements!

Pomeroy Ranger District of the Umatilla National Forest: A good resource for checking on trail conditions, road conditions, and closures.

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The High Sierra Trail is a 72-mile point-to-point backpacking route that traverses the Sierra Nevada west to east. The trail crosses the Great Western Divide over Kaweah Gap and culminates at Trail Crest Junction with the option to summit Mt. Whitney, the tallest point in the contiguous United States. There is over 15,000 feet of elevation gain and it can be hiked in 5-9 days.  

Region: Pacific West (Sequoia National Park, California)
Length: 72 miles* (5-9 days)

*Does not include the 3.8 miles round trip from Trail Crest Junction to Mt. Whitney summit (~900 feet of gain)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Cumulative elevation gain for 15,000+ feet 
• Average elevation is high. There is sun exposure and it can be very hot 
• Terrain can be rocky and uneven

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Permit required 
• Point-to-point trail: transportation to/from trailheads can be difficult to arrange
• No options for food resupply 

Season: Summer, Fall

Elevation (average): ~ 9,500 feet
Total Elevation Gain: ~ 15,000 feet

Want this map for offline use? Get a discount on Gaia Premium here 

Hiking the High Sierra Trail

After I hiked the John Muir Trail, I never thought another route could rival its beauty. 

I was wrong. 

The High Sierra Trail is filled with sweeping views, striking alpine lakes, and beautiful valleys. I was astonished by how much the landscape changed in just 72 miles. 

The traditional route is west to east, although you could reverse that direction for a different experience. I am partial to starting in Crescent Meadow and exiting at Whitney Portal because it gives you the opportunity to summit Mt. Whitney for an epic end to the trail. 

Mt. Whitney is not technically a part of the High Sierra Trail, but I implore you to add it to your itinerary. At 14,505 feet Mt. Whitney is the highest point in the 48 contiguous United States. The summit is monumental and offers expansive views over rocky ridges as far as the eye can see. It’s well worth the 3.8-mile round trip detour from Trail Crest Junction. If you want the best experience, I urge you to get up there for sunrise. I promise you, it will be a memory that will last you a lifetime. 

I wouldn’t recommend the High Sierra Trail for beginner backpackers. The amount of elevation gain and loss is physically demanding, and the added weight of a bear canister and long food carry can make your pack bulky and heavy. In addition, some of the route can be technical (river crossings, Class 1 scrambling in sections), which adds difficulty. If you have some backpacking experience and are looking to possibly do the John Muir Trail or Pacific Crest Trail in the future, this hike is perfect. 

There are many alpine lakes on this trail, and I took advantage of EVERY swimming opportunity I could! Hamilton Lake was my favorite: I spent the entire day floating on my sleeping pad, swimming, reading, and eating snacks. I also thoroughly enjoyed taking a dip in the frigid waters at Guitar Lake (11,400 feet) after a long climb up in the hot sun. 

This was my first time going solo and it was a really great trail to test it out on. It was popular enough where I camped near other parties some nights, but I also had a 24-hour stretch when I didn’t see another person. There were times when I was on the side of the trail during a long uphill, drenched in sweat, flies hanging around my ears, and chugging the last of my water … swearing at the universe and myself for choosing to do the trail solo. Then there were quiet moments: long stretches like the path along the Kern River where all I heard for hours was the sound of crashing water. I was the only camper at Moraine Lake and got to hear the birds, crickets, and other noises from the woods come alive as the sun set. As I climbed above Guitar Lake in the ascent to Mt. Whitney under the night sky, all I could hear was my heavy breathing and footsteps—feeling proud that I completed the High Sierra Trail on my own. 

How to Get to the High Sierra Trail

Western Terminus: Crescent Meadow/High Sierra Trailhead
Closest City: Visalia, California (54) or Three Rivers, California (25)

Eastern Terminus: Whitney Portal
Closest City: Lone Pine, California (11)

The logistics of getting to and from the trailheads was by far the most challenging part of planning this hike, especially as a solo hiker. 

The two trailheads are ~280 miles or 5.5 hours apart, so unless you have a VERY good friend who is willing to drop you off and/or pick you up, you will need to plan transportation in advance.

The easiest (and most expensive) option is to drive one car to the Crescent Meadow High Sierra Trailhead, hike west to east, and then book the East Side Sierra Shuttle to take you back from Whitney Portal to Crescent Meadow ($800 for up to 5 persons).

The nearest towns to the High Sierra Trailhead (western terminus) are Visalia (54 miles) and Three Rivers (25 miles). I mention both because even though Three Rivers is closer, it has less-affordable lodging options before you begin your hike. I stayed in Visalia for about half the price of what I could find in Three Rivers. There is not an Uber or Lyft presence in these towns (about 2 drivers in the whole town). I had to wait 30 minutes for a ride from the bus stop to my Airbnb in Visalia, and the next morning I walked the 1.8 miles back to take the bus from Visalia to Three Rivers.

Here are some options to get from Visalia to the High Sierra Trailhead: 

• Take the Sequoia Shuttle (it was not operating when I visited but will resume operation in summer 2021)
  • Once you’re in Sequoia National Park, you can use this link for planning how to get around the park 
• Local drivers/companies in Visalia and Three Rivers (book these in advance!)
  • Three Rivers Transportation
  • Nightbird Visalia Taxi
• Join the High Sierra Trail Facebook group and see if you can carpool or hitch a ride. I was able to find someone who lived in Three Rivers and worked in Sequoia National Park to give me a ride to the trailhead. This group is also a great resource for anything else you need to plan for the trail! 

The nearest town to the Whitney Portal exit is Lone Pine (11 miles). There is no public transportation option to get from the trailhead exit to the town, so you have two options:

1. Book the East Side Sierra Shuttle from Whitney Portal to Lone Pine
   ($80 first passenger, $25 each additional passenger)
2. Hitch a ride into town. Whitney Portal is a very popular trailhead and the parking lot is always FULL of day hikers, backpackers, and campers. Hitchhiking from this trailhead is very common and is considered safe. As a female solo hiker, I felt completely safe getting my first hitch ever! 

I’ve been to Lone Pine at least 8 times at this point and it is by far one of my favorite small towns in the US. I highly recommend adding an extra day to your itinerary to explore the town. My favorite spots are the Alabama Hills Cafe, The Grill, and the Western Film History Museum. 

To get out of Lone Pine, you will need to take the Eastern Sierra Transit (goes to Reno and Lancaster).

With ALL transportation options, make sure to call and book far in advance. This High Sierra Trail is popular and there are few options for getting to/from trailheads.

When to Hike the High Sierra Trail

The Sierra can stay snowy all year long, so it’s important to be aware of snowpack when planning your trip. 

May/June: Early season can bring dangerous river crossings from peak snowmelt. Pay attention to Kern River and Kaweah River reports during this time. You can call the ranger station about a week before your departure at (559) 565-3341 to get more information on water levels.

July/August: Lower water levels, most snow should be gone. Expect high temps (80-90 F) and lots of mosquitoes. 

September: Fewer bugs/lower temps. Weather can be variable and drop to below 20 F at night. 

When hiking through high elevation terrain, you always need to be aware of afternoon thunderstorms. Check the Mountain Forecast in the days leading up to your trip. Try to tackle higher elevations/passes earlier in the day to avoid being in exposed terrain. Thunderstorms and lightning can happen quickly and unexpectedly. 

High Sierra Trail Terrain 

The High Sierra Trail was created in the 1920s to help park officials travel west to east. The trail is well-established and easy to follow, although I still recommend having both a paper map as well as downloaded GPX or Topo maps on your phone.

The trail is at high elevation most of the time (~9,500 feet), so expect rocky terrain. It crosses over the Great Western Divide at Kaweah Gap (10,869 feet) and Trail Crest Junction (13,600 feet).

There are some river crossings and lots of alpine lakes. I recommend bringing camp/water shoes and taking advantage of EVERY swimming opportunity. There’s nothing like taking a dip in the Sierra!

Logistics: Camping, Permits, and Water

Camping and Permits: A wilderness quota is in effect and a permit is required to hike the High Sierra Trail May 28 – September 18. Off-season permits are still required, but they are self-issued. 

Sequoia & Kings Canyon has an online reservation system through Recreation.gov.

You can reserve up to six months in advance. Wilderness permits cost $15 each trip plus $5 per person within the quota season.  You can read more information on the process here.

Water: Water is plentiful on this trail and you shouldn’t have any issues or long water carries. I recommend bringing two types of filtration since this trail is so popular and water can be contaminated. I used the Sawyer Squeeze and carried iodine tablets as a backup, although I didn’t use them.

Food: There is no resupply for the High Sierra Trail, so you will need to carry all your food from start to finish.

High Sierra Route Special Gear

Bear Canister: Although a bear canister is not technically required to do the High Sierra Trail, I HIGHLY recommend bringing one. If you plan to only camp at locations with food-storage boxes, then you can complete the trail without one. Use this link to see the full list of locations. However, you can’t really count on food-storage boxes being available or usable (could be broken or removed without a report). I also enjoyed being able to have flexibility in choosing my camping spots because I had a bear canister. 

Bear Spray: Bear spray is NOT ALLOWED in Sequoia National Park and is illegal to possess. This land is home to hundreds of black bears, but no grizzly bears. Do not bring bear spray or other firearms/weapons. 

Trekking Poles: I used to hate trekking poles until I started hiking in the Sierra. With lots of elevation gain and loss, trekking poles can be very helpful. 

Sun Protection: The trail is very exposed and you will need protection. Strong SPF sunscreen. I also recommend a UPF long-sleeve shirt with a hood like this, as well as a hat or hiking umbrella. 

Wag Bag: From Crabtree Meadow -> Whitney Portal, a wag bag (or other human waste carry-out method) is required. Yes, that’s right. You need to poop into a bag and carry it with you until you exit the trail at Whitney Portal. The ecosystem is extremely fragile in that area and human waste/other trash is very detrimental. 

Know Before You Go

Drastic changes in weather can occur on the High Sierra Trail. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in summer months and you do not want to be at high elevation or exposed terrain when one hits. 

Once you descend from Moraine Lake until you get to Junction Meadow, be very aware of rattlesnakes along the Kern River. Right before I reached the Kern River and passed the “RattleSnake Canyon” sign I heard a LOUD rattle and jumped back to see a fully grown rattlesnake coiled up, ready to strike right off trail. 

Black bears and mountain lions/cougars are common. Bear spray is illegal to use. Be aware of your surroundings. 

The trail is at high elevation. If you’re coming from sea level (or even from a location at higher elevation) you may experience altitude sickness. Consider bringing altitude sickness medication like Diamox or anti-inflammatory drugs like Aleve/ibuprofen to alleviate symptoms.

There is no cell service on the trail. Lots of hikers carry a Garmin InReach or Spot device. 

High Sierra Route Additional Resources

High Sierra Trail Facebook Group 

Alex is a photographer and filmmaker based out of Salt Lake City, Utah. She loves all type 2 fun, breaking a sweat, and getting dirty doing it! She always has a camera in hand and enjoys capturing that feeling of accomplishment and relief after reaching a summit after a long day of climbing. To see more, follow her on Instagram.

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The Sierra High Route is a 195-mile route through the Sierra Nevada mountain range, known for challenging off-trail travel, sweeping granite peaks, and stunning alpine lakes. It can be hiked in 14-21 days.

Region: Pacific West (Sierra Nevada, California)
Distance: 195 miles (14-21 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Travels above 9,000 feet for the majority of the route
• Many Class 3 off-trail passes (~30 passes along route)
• Over 40,000 feet of cumulative elevation gain

Logistical Difficulty: Difficult

• Resupply options are minimal and can be far from the route
• Tricky off-trail navigation / travel in some sections
• Route termini are remote, on opposite sides of the Sierra Nevada

Season: Summer

Elevation (Average): ~10,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: ~ 44,000 feet

Hiking the Sierra High Route

The Sierra High Route, also known as Roper’s Route, is a worthy and challenging endeavor in the Sierra. The route was designed and put together by Steve Roper, a famous climber and historian in the area. He wrote a book, The Sierra High Route: Traversing Timberline Country, that guides the hiker through the landscape while providing information and history along the way. The book is written as if the hiker is walking northbound, so that may be the easiest direction of travel, though you can walk the route in either direction. 

The Sierra High Route traverses beautiful and remote terrain, passing stunning alpine lakes (with ample swimming opportunities) along the way. During the 195 miles, this route takes the hiker over approximately 30 mountain passes. Due to it being lesser known and more physically and logistically demanding, the route sees less traffic than the well-known John Muir Trail (JMT) or Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) in the same region.

The terrain along the Sierra High Route offers variety. Occasionally you will walk on the well-maintained John Muir Trail, but at other times you will spend hours scrambling on third-class talus fields. Much of the second- to third-class terrain requires focus, balance, and trust in your skills and judgment. The remoteness of the route poses high risk if you or someone in your party gets injured. For safety, hikers attempting this route should be competent in navigation and route-finding, and able to appropriately assess their level of fitness when planning their trip. 

The route starts out heading north in Kings Canyon National Park and eventually turns east, dropping into the JMT/PCT corridor. After a few miles it leaves lower elevations to stay high near the Palisades range. After dropping back down to the JMT/PCT to go over Muir Pass, it leaves this corridor again just before the big drop into Evolution Valley. Here it stays high along the crest, and then takes you below Mt. Humphreys and Bear Creek Spire, passing stunning alpine lakes along the way. The route continues along the crest and eventually drops into Reds Meadow, the only resupply spot en route. Past Reds Meadow it travels below the jagged Minarets and Mt. Ritter, into Yosemite National Park, through Tuolumne Meadows and past Mt. Conness down into Twin Lakes Village, just outside of Bridgeport, California.

How to Get to the Sierra High Route

Nearest Major Cities

West Side of Sierra: Fresno, California (~175 miles to southern terminus)
East Side of Sierra: Reno, Nevada (~115 miles to northern terminus), Bridgeport, California (~15 miles to northern terminus)

Trailhead / Southern Terminus: Copper Creek Trailhead, Road’s End
Trailhead / Northern Terminus: Horse Creek Falls Trailhead, Twin Lakes

Getting to and from the termini of the route can be difficult. When I hiked the route I preferred to forgo a personal vehicle and stick with public transit, shuttles, and hitchhiking. These logistics are particularly hard because the route ends on opposite sides of the Sierra Nevada. Theoretically, a hiker could park one vehicle at each end, but this would involve an approximately five-hour car shuttle on either side of the trip. The best option for getting to either terminus would be to fly into the large(ish) nearby airports, either Fresno (southern terminus) or Reno (northern terminus). 

To get to the southern terminus (public transit can take you most of the way), you can take Big Trees Transit from the Fresno Yosemite International Airport to Grant Grove Village in Kings Canyon National Park. From there, you may be able to hitch a ride to Road’s End. Reverse this in order to travel from Road’s End to Fresno.

To get to and from the northern terminus, you can easily hitch or hire a ride to or from Bridgeport (only about 15 miles from the northern terminus), and then take Eastern Sierra Transit. Eastern Sierra Transit runs along most of the eastern side of the Sierra, including all the way to the Reno-Tahoe International Airport. If you plan on flying in or out of Reno, this is a great option. Another useful public transportation service in the area is the Yosemite Area Rapid Transit System. If you are able to find a way up into Tuolumne Meadows or into Yosemite Valley, they may be helpful in getting back onto the west side of the range if you left a vehicle there. But this involves more logistics than seems necessary. As always, you can schedule a shuttle service or hitchhike at either end.

When to Hike the Sierra High Route

The best time to hike the Sierra High Route is late July to mid-September. I hiked it in late August. During August the weather and temperatures were very stable. By this time the snowpack from the past winter has most likely melted completely, making movement in the mountains a little bit more consistent and less treacherous. It is possible to hike into September, but you may encounter cold temperatures and possible early-season snowstorms. The best hiking window will be early August to early September.

Sierra High Route Terrain 

The terrain on the Sierra High Route is purely mountainous. Most of the route is off trail, and most of the trail sections are on lesser-traveled trails. Some of the trails may be well-maintained while others may be hard to follow. The route entails many class 2 and class 3 scrambles to go up and over multiple high passes. Some of the route takes you on granite slabs and some of it goes through high alpine meadows. Because the route is so high in elevation and the tree cover is minimal, finding shelter and protection from the elements can be a challenge.

Sierra High Route Resupply

Resupply can be tricky on the Sierra High Route. There is only one option for a resupply that is directly en route: Red’s Meadow Resort. There are a few other options, but all require leaving the established route. When I hiked the Sierra High Route I opted to only send a box to Red’s Meadow and to stop by the Tuolumne Meadows General Store to buy a few snacks before the end. This made for a long food carry and a somewhat heavy pack for the first half of the trip.

When planning your Sierra High Route resupply, it may be helpful to consider if you want to have external support or not. You could have someone hike to meet you with supplies, or you could hire an outfitter to hike or horsepack in a resupply for you. If you decide to resupply independently, there are some options along the route, as well as a few trailheads where you could leave the route and return.

Here is a breakdown of resupply options along the Sierra High Route, listed in NOBO order:

Mile 32 | Bishop Pass Trailhead via Bishop Pass: You can leave the route in Dusy Basin and hike up and over Bishop Pass. This will take you down to the Bishop Pass Trailhead. Here you can hitch/hire/find a ride into Bishop, California, a town with all the necessary services. This will add about 7 miles (14 miles round trip) to your hike, not to mention that you will have to drop 2,000 feet just to gain it back again. 

Mile 95 | Red’s Meadow Resort: This is the only en-route option for resupply. They accept hiker packages for a $40 charge. Also, they offer showers, a payphone, restaurant, and accommodations. 

Mile 95 | Mammoth Lakes, California, via bus from Red’s Meadow:  You are able to catch the bus from Red’s Meadow down into Mammoth Lakes via Eastern Sierra Transit. Mammoth Lakes has ample options for all hiker resupply needs. 

Mile 130 | Tuolumne Meadows General Store: The Tuolumne Meadows General Store is only a few miles off the Sierra High Route. You could plan on an (expensive) resupply there or you could send a mail drop to the post office as your final resupply option. I stopped by this store because I was running low on food and needed a place to buy a few extra snacks. Also, a breakfast sandwich from the grill as a pick-me-up was definitely a plus.

Sierra High Route Logistics: Permits, Camping, Special Gear

Permits: You will need a permit to hike the Sierra High Route since it travels across Sequoia-Kings Canyon and Yosemite National Parks, as well as the John Muir and Ansel Adams wilderness areas. Luckily, the Sierra High Route permits are not as hard to obtain as other more popular trails in the area, such as the Rae Lakes Loop or the John Muir Trail. 

I recommend reserving a permit once you have a basic itinerary mapped out. I reserved a permit in advance and it gave me peace of mind during logistics and travel to get to the southern terminus.

If you are walking northbound, you can pick up your permit at the Road’s End Ranger Station right next to Copper Creek Trailhead. Picking up a permit here will get you all the way through to the end at Twin Lakes. Walk-up permits are also available there if you would like to take your chances. If you are walking southbound you can pick up your walk-up or reserved permit at the Bridgeport Ranger Station, for entry at Horse Creek Falls Trailhead. Then you will need to pick up another permit at Tuolumne Meadows Ranger Station for the rest of the route. Weirdly, the permit for the Toiyabe National Forest (entering at Horse Creek Falls) is not valid for Yosemite and beyond, requiring two separate permits to hike the Sierra High Route southbound. 

Camping: Camping is plentiful along the Sierra High Route. In general, the Sierra offer many options for camping each day. You can camp along a river, at an alpine lake, or on flat granite slabs. At some point along the way you will encounter more established campsites and in other sections it will be up to you to find camping. Remember to follow LNT principles wherever you stay. 

Special Gear: A bear canister will be necessary on the Sierra High Route to stay within regulations. These can be tricky to pack into your backpack and everyone has their preferred method. The real trick is: can you fit all of your food? Take some time to experiment with what you think works best for you to make for more comfortable pack fitting.

Know Before You Go

Previous Experience: The Sierra High Route is best suited for folks with previous backpacking experience. If you aren’t sure how to use a map and compass, lack the required fitness, or are new to first aid in the mountains, this may not be the trip for you (yet). If you use a GPS to navigate, always make sure you have another option since batteries can run out and electronics can sometimes fail. Just a reminder to know your own limits. Luckily, there are many options for bailing if you find yourself in a tough spot. 

Environmental: High alpine environments can be harsh. On the SHR you will be above treeline and on exposed terrain most of the time. Pay special attention to weather patterns and how intense the sun can be. Drink water, put on sunscreen, and take care of yourself. Preventing problems is usually easier than fixing them.

Section Hiking Options: In his book, Steve Roper outlines ways that a hiker could travel each section of the SHR individually. Like any trail or route, you don’t have to hike it all in at once. There is so much to see in the expanse of the Sierra. Doing multiple trips may help you continue exploring more parts of this beautiful landscape.

Sierra High Route Resources

The Sierra High Route: Traversing Timberline Country by Steve Roper

Sequoia-Kings Canyon Permit Reservations

Bear Canister Regulations

Jeff Podmayer (he/him) grew up in the Pacific Northwest and is always looking for ways to spend time outside. He enjoys walking, talking, drinking hot cocoa, and eating pizza. Sometimes all at once. He has some hiking experience, but mostly enjoys the feeling of breaking a sweat. 

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The Old Mt. Baldy to Three T’s Loop is a challenging 22-mile trail in Southern California that can be hiked in 2-3 days. The route offers expansive views and multiple peaks, but carrying enough water is a limiting factor.

Region: Pacific West (Angeles National Forest / Cucamonga Wilderness, Southern California)
Length: 22 miles (2-3 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult 

• Route begins with 6,000 feet of elevation gain in 6 miles
• One place to refill water, prepare for a heavy pack
• Fairly exposed trail, subject to very hot or cold temperatures

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

• Walk-up, self-serve permit, though you need to plan camping in advance
• Well-trafficked trail with plenty of people and cell service in some spots
• Maps for hikers to take at the trailhead

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Elevation (Average): ~6,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 8,000 feet

Hiking the Mt. Baldy Loop Trail

Moving like molasses under a 40-pound pack, Nate muttered that next year he would “not be doing something like this for his birthday.” Once we stopped for a snack and water his spirits improved, but mine tanked. This is a HARD backpacking trip. Depending on when you go, there may be only one spot to refill water, hence the 40-pound pack. Despite its physical difficulty, I would absolutely go through this again. Camping on top of a 10,000 foot peak with LA county twinkling below and the stars twinkling above is something I will never forget, and turned out to be one of Nate’s favorite birthday memories. 

Mt. Baldy and its surrounding wilderness is part of the Angeles National Forest in Southern California’s high desert. Wrightwood, a popular PCT trail town, is just on the other side of the mountain and a few thru-hikers summit Baldy as a half-day detour from the PCT. The trails are well-paved and easy to follow, but steep. The Old Mt. Baldy trail is the most taxing route to the top, with nearly 6,000 feet of gain over 6 miles. Despite its difficulty, this route is fantastic for its views. Once you climb above 8,000 feet, you’re walking on a ridgeline with mountain layers to the west, east, and north, with LA county behind you. Plus, this grueling death march to the top made for an extra-sweet summit sunset. 

The following day, we had a light itinerary with plenty of breaks. Early in the morning you reach the one place to refill water, so we stopped for quite some time. Along the route you hit three small peaks, Thunder, Telegraph, and Timber Mountain (the Three T’s). Here, you enter the Cucamonga Wilderness. These three peaks have very nice views, and we enjoyed stopping at every one. We camped just to the side of Thunder Mountain in a private, forested clearing. 

On the last morning we got up before sunrise to quickly hike the last 4 miles out. We descended the Icehouse Canyon trail, which is extremely popular and compared to the “405 at rush hour” (SoCal humor). This descent is fairly comfortable and gradual, and even though Nate was exceptionally anxious to get to the trailhead pit toilet, we stopped to soak our feet in the Icehouse Canyon stream. 

The logistical planning for this trip was extremely easy. Walk-up permits are self-serve and available at the Icehouse Canyon trailhead. It’s not difficult to camp away from water, because there is none. I recommend spending at least one of the nights on top of Mt. Baldy, but otherwise just follow standard LNT guidelines when selecting a site.

How to Get to the Mt. Baldy Loop

Icehouse Canyon Parking here.

From San Diego, you’ll follow I-15 all the way to I-10 in LA County. From there, you follow the exit for Mt. Baldy and head up Mt. Baldy Road. There are a few trailhead options, so be sure to watch for signs for Icehouse Canyon parking. From Los Angeles, you’ll follow I-10 East to the 210 and take the same exit marked for Mt. Baldy.

When to Hike the Mt. Baldy Loop

Though it can be hiked year-round, without a true winter gear system, this route is best hiked from late spring (April) to late fall (November), depending on the snowpack. We went smack dab in the middle of August, and we had HOT days and very comfortable nights. The water advantage you gain from going in the early season is the potential to be able to melt snow. Otherwise, the only stream that flows is year-round, and will either be at the very beginning or very end of your trip.

Hiking Direction / Sample Itinerary

We hiked the loop clockwise, and would highly recommend following this path as well. This got the massive climb out of the way in one long push, and the rest of the trip was short ups and downs, with one long gradual climb out. There is one 2-mile road walk from the Icehouse Canyon parking area to the Old Mt. Baldy trailhead, which we also wanted to get done first. Walking 2 miles up the road did not seem like a fun way to end our trip. Here’s how our two-night trip of this route looked: 

Day One: 

• Arrived at Icehouse Canyon Parking Lot ~ 2 p.m.
• Two-mile road walk down to Old Mt. Baldy trailhead 
• Climb from 4,000 feet elevation to 10,000 feet (top of Mt. Baldy) in 6 miles, via the Old Mt. Baldy Trail
• Camp on top of Mt. Baldy 
• Total: 8.5 miles / 5,800 ft gain 

Day Two: 

• Descend from Mt. Baldy to the Baldy Notch Restaurant, via Devil’s Backbone 
• Stop at the Notch, refill water, option to buy snacks / drinks
• Follow trail to Thunder Mountain (8,573 feet), Telegraph Peak (8,901 feet), and camp at Timber Mountain (8,271 feet)
• Total: 10 miles / ~2,000 feet of gain 

Day Three: 

• Hike out from Timber Mountain to Icehouse Canyon park lot 
• *Crucial* stop at Icehouse Creek to soak feet 
• Total: 4 miles / no gain

Mt. Baldy Loop Terrain

The Angeles National Forest is a year-round destination for Southern California residents hoping to trade crowded beaches for pine trees, Douglas firs, and layers of mountains. From 4,000 to ~7,000 feet, much of the trail is chaparral and very exposed. Once you reach roughly 7,000 feet, you enter nicely forested and shaded trails until you climb above the treeline toward the very top of the mountain. The trails are well-paved and marked, with no scrambling required. However, all of the routes to the top of Mt. Baldy are incredibly steep, with 1,000 feet+ of gain miles. On a clear day, you can see all the way to the Sierra from Baldy.

Mt. Baldy Loop Logistics: Water, Camping, and Land Management 

Water: As it has been noted, water is the biggest logistical hurdle for this trip. We started off with 8 liters each, and were running on empty by the time we got down to the Baldy Notch Restaurant for a refill. But also, we started climbing 6,000 feet in 8 miles at 2 p.m. in the middle of August after a night of tequila drinking (it was his birthday, OK). We could have mitigated some of these dehydrating factors. 

Camping: You’ll need to plan your campsites before filling out a walk-up permit. Bear vaults are not required, but there are plenty of critters (and larger animals) roaming the area. On the top of Mt. Baldy you’re not likely to encounter anything larger than a squirrel, but in the forested areas like Timber Mountain, I recommend bringing a bear bag to hang. 

Angeles National Forest / Cucamonga Wilderness: You don’t need a permit for day hiking in Angeles National Forest, but once the jurisdiction switches to the Cucamonga Wilderness, all hikers must have a permit. This happens just past the Baldy Notch Restaurant before the Three T’s Trail, so be prepared. Read here for more info, but the permits are walk-up, so it’s easy.

Know Before You Go 

Pack Out Your Trash: I probably don’t have to remind BPR readers, but these wilderness areas have been loved to death. If you’re feeling exceptionally altruistic, bring a big bag to pick up extra trash along the way. I promise you’ll find plenty. 

A National Forest Adventure Pass Required: You can either buy a $5 one-time Forest Adventure Pass, or a $30 annual one. Both of these are available at local REIs, Big 5, or national forest permit stations. 

Be Aware of Wildlife: There are frequent mountain lion and bighorn sheep sightings in the Cucamonga Wilderness. Brush up on how to handle these encounters. 

Get There Early, or Go on a Weekday. On the weekends, the Icehouse Canyon parking lot is full by 8 a.m. Avoid circling the parking lot (and loitering near hikers taking their shoes off) by getting there early.

Resources

Angeles National Forest Info: Permits and potential fire closure

National Forest Adventure Pass

Wilderness Permit (free)

Katie is a freelance writer based in Salt Lake City, Utah. When she’s not guzzling instant coffee in the backcountry, you can find her down the ski slopes or using inappropriate language around children at the climbing gym. For ramblings, rants, and the occasional dose of inspirational musing follow her on Instagram or her blog Small Towns to Summits. Maybe someday soon she’ll start posting there again; you’ll just have to follow to find out.

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The John Muir Trail is a permit-required 211-mile trail through California’s Sierra Nevada mountains. Most of the trail follows the Pacific Crest Trail, and can be done safely between June and September. 

Region: Pacific West (Sierra Nevada, California)
Length: 211 miles (12-25 days)  

Physical Difficulty: Difficult  

• High elevations, consistent camping above 10,000 feet
• Variable weather conditions, dangerous stream crossings early season, and snowstorms late season 
• Lots of elevation gain and loss, six mountain passes over 11,000 feet 

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Competitive permit system 
• Resupplies needed but resupply system is well-established
• Transportation needed between two trailheads (Yosemite National Park and Mount Whitney Portal) 

Season: Summer (July – September).
Average Elevation: ~8,500 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 46,000 feet

Hiking the John Muir Trail 

Every time I hear a story detailing Pacific Crest Trail hikers struggling on the John Muir Trail portion, I feel extremely validated. The JMT was my second backpacking trip longer than one night. With minimal research and planning, we scraped together a 17-day trek the week before, relying on the walk-up permit process, and driving our resupplies to their locations. Do I recommend doing it this way? No. Does it puff my ego to know that this is the section where PCT thru-hikers break down and face their limits? Yes. 

Personal anecdotes aside, I do not recommend this trail for beginners. The Sierra Nevada mountain range features extremely difficult terrain and varied weather conditions. Each day we hiked 15 to 20 miles, climbing anywhere from 2,500 to 4,500 feet of elevation. The solitude in stunning, jaw-dropping wilderness is magical, yet isolating. Even though I had my best friend and trail brother with me, I had a couple of weepy, existential nights in my sleeping bag. 

If you’re looking to dip your toe into long-distance backpacking, I recommend sectioning the JMT or picking a shorter High Sierra trip. The John Muir Trail is perfect for extremely experienced backpackers, or individuals contemplating a longer thru-hike. Even though there’s more than one video of me crying on this trail, it gave me a taste of the hiker trash lifestyle that I’m not prepared to give up anytime soon. 

How to Get to the John Muir Trail 

Transportation is a bit of a doozy for the JMT, given its remote location. Many hikers drop a car at each terminus, or arrange a ride from a friend. There are public transportation options available. 

Northern Terminus: Happy Isles Trailhead
Closest Cities: Merced, California (~80 miles) or Modesto, California (~114 miles) 
Closest Major City: Oakland, California (~150 miles)

Southern Terminus: Mount Whitney Portal
Closest Cities: Bakersfield, California (~150 miles) or Bishop, California (~60 miles)
Closest Major City: Los Angeles, California (~210 miles) 

John Muir Trail Southern Terminus

Cars are allowed to drive and park in Yosemite Valley. You’ll need to make sure you’re at the right parking lot for Happy Isles Trailhead, and that overnight parking is allowed. We wrote a note with our itinerary and placed it on the dashboard to ensure our car wasn’t marked as abandoned. Also, you will need to remove absolutely all scented items from your car before hitting the trail, due to high bear activity in the valley. 

Amtrak, Greyhound, and YARTS all work in conjunction to provide public transportation from the California Bay Area into Yosemite. From Oakland or San Francisco, hikers can chose Amtrak or Greyhound to take them into Merced, where YARTS (Yosemite’s transit system), shuttles into the valley. More information here. 

Whether you are starting at Tuolumne Meadows or Happy Isles, you will need a national parks pass to enter the park. 

The Yosemite Valley hikers bus travels from the valley to Tuolumne Meadows during peak season. You will need to purchase a ticket; check here for more information. 

John Muir Trail Northern Terminus

Getting from Whitney Portal back to Yosemite Valley is a bit of a drag. I recommend staying at least one night in Lone Pine after your trek, to soak in your experience at the Whitney Portal Hostel. Also, The Grill serves enormous, delicious portions of post-hike heavenly food. 

Between Whitney Portal (the trailhead) and Lone Pine is a 10-mile mountain road. There are independent shuttle services available (like this one), but this is also a very easy hitch. Though the hiker smell is rank by this point, day-hikers may be eager to give some JMTers a ride into town. 

There is no direct route from Lone Pine to Yosemite Valley via public transportation. However, the Eastern Sierra Transit goes from Lone Pine to Mammoth Lakes, where you can transfer to YARTS into the valley or Tuolumne Meadows. 

When to Hike the John Muir Trail 

Throughout all the summer months the JMT features extraordinary wildflowers, plentiful water, and snowcapped peaks. The month you choose will dictate which difficulties you face, whether it be weather, bugs, or river crossings. On low snow years June is possible, if you’re prepared to cross rivers and hike with microspikes and an ice axe. September is ideal (no bugs), though toward the end of the month winter storms may arrive.

June: Though you won’t yet be assaulted by mosquitoes, I would only plan for a June thru-hike if you have experience hiking through snow. Or, on a low snow year, consider a walk-up permit. The summer crowds won’t be out in full force yet. 

July: The weather is best in July, though at lower elevations the mosquitoes will be out in full force. Creek crossings will also be less of an issue by July. 

August: The weather will still be warmer, but bugs may be less of an issue. August and July both will bring more crowds to the trail. 

September: The weather will be on the chillier side, but still manageable with the right gear. Bugs will only be an issue at the lowest elevations, and the crowds will thin out. In 2019, the first snowstorm hit the region on September 29, our exit day. We had to wait an extra day in Lone Pine to be able to drive back into Yosemite National Park. Consider the possibility of winter storms coming very early. 

John Muir Trail Terrain 

The JMT is established and relatively easy to follow. Even on the highest mountain passes, there is a blazed trail to the top and no scrambling is required. Though the passes are challenging and steep, there are switchbacks the entire way up. 

The trail itself is a mix of dirt and granite, with a few rockier sections. I opted to wear trail runners and appreciated the agility, though the shoes were completely busted by the end due to the varied terrain. Depending on when you go, there are a number of river crossings. If you opt to bring camp shoes, make sure they’re waterproof. 

John Muir Trail Resupply Strategies 

There are a handful of spots along the JMT to either mail or stash a resupply. I recommend selecting at least two locations to resupply. Bear in mind that ~7 days of food will fit in a large (BV500) bear canister. Here are the different options for resupply, and how to get your food there. The JMT FarOut app will help you dial in exactly how close you are getting to your resupply point.  

Tuolumne Meadows: Mile 23.9. Some people send a resupply here in order to start off with 1-2 days worth of food. Very smart. There is also a restaurant and small convenience store here. Here is information on how to send a package there. 

Red’s Meadow Pack Station and Resort: Mile 57.3. This is a popular resupply, and also an opportunity to hitch into the town of Mammoth Lakes. There is a restaurant, a small convenience store, showers, and laundry available here. Read here for information on how to ship a resupply to Red’s Meadow. They do charge a holding fee upon arrival, and the shipping charge is already steep. We drove our resupply here a week before our hike, and only paid the holding fee. 

Vermillion Valley Resort: Mile 86.5. VVR is a ferry ride away from the JMT, but rumor is you get a free beer upon arrival. There is a restaurant and small store available, as well as lodging and camping. Read their website for information on how to ship to VVR. 

Muir Trail Ranch: Mile 106.4. MTR is just a short detour from the JMT, but offers considerably fewer resources than VVR. Though their hiker boxes are legendary, there is no restaurant, showers, laundry, or grocery shopping available to hikers. We were able to drive our resupply to a station across the lake from MTR and pay $30 for transportation, as opposed to an $85 shipping fee. Information on how to get your food to MTR is available here. 

Onion Valley Campsite: Mile 177.9. This is an unpopular resupply point, but in my opinion it’s under-utilized. Though Onion Valley is a 15-mile round-trip detour from the JMT, stashing your resupply here is free. The campsite has large bear vaults to hold hikers’ food; just label it with your name and arrival date. If you don’t have the ability to drive out there, you can also ship a general delivery box to the nearby town of Independence and hitch a ride there. 

Logistics: Permits, Bear Cans, Camping, Water

Permits: Permits are absolutely 100% required on the John Muir Trail, and are dutifully monitored. There are a few ways to go about getting a permit, despite the competitive system. If you have a wide range of dates available ~6 months out, follow this link to apply for a three-week rolling permit. This is only for SOBO hikers (Yosemite to Whitney) and has a few different starting trailhead options. Getting a permit to hike NOBO is much less competitive. This website lays out that process.

Another way to get a permit, if you’re a spontaneous son-of-a-gun, is the walk-up process. Both Yosemite Valley and Tuolumne Meadows have a specific number of permits allocated for walk-ups, so you just have to get in line first. Your desired starting trailhead may not be available, but chances are something will be. My hiking partner and I got our permits in Yosemite Valley the day before we started our thru-hike. We were able to do the entire JMT (Happy Isles to Mount Whitney), including a summit up Half Dome on day one. I am a walk-up process believer. This page has some information on the walk-up process.

Bear Cans: Hard-sided bear cans are required within Yosemite National Park and the Yosemite Wilderness. You cannot use bear bags or a different food-storage method. Though the other wilderness areas don’t require hard-sided canisters (bear bags are OK), the Pacific Crest Trail Association and the JMT Conservancy both implore hikers to keep their canisters the entire way. 

Camping: Campsites are plentiful and absolutely stunning along the entire trail. There are a handful of no camping zones along certain protected lakes, but for the most part, you just need to be mindful of the basic LNT principles. 

Water: The water is plentiful and delicious in the Sierra Nevada. The longest stretch without water is five miles, and oftent the trail follows creeks. A single water filtration method is plenty.  

Half Dome Detour: We hit the jackpot with our walk-up permits, and were also able to snag two Half Dome tickets, so we tacked that onto our day one itinerary. However, when applying for a permit in advance, you do have the option to add on a Half Dome permit if you wish. It’s a 4-mile round trip detour from the JMT, and well worth it in my opinion. We were able to stash our packs at the junction where the JMT splits from the Half Dome Trail. The hike from this point on is very challenging, and I recommend leaving the heavy packs behind, and just taking food, water, layers, and gloves for the cables. Also note that Half Dome is more than just a steep hike: the cables section is incredibly steep and exposed, and if you hit the cables during the busiest time of day, it might be a long time waiting in line behind people on the route. It’s an amazing experience, but do your research before committing.

Know Before You Go 

Cell Reception: There is none. I’ll admit it, the 7-day stretch without a single bar of service affected me more than I care to admit. Mentally prepare yourself to feel utterly disconnected from the world for as long as the trail takes you. 

Extra Gear Needed: Bear cans are necessary, and there are some long food carries. Because of this, your pack may not be as light as you would like. Plan accordingly, and make sure you are adequately prepared for temperatures well below freezing. In September, we had some ~20 degree nights and I was NOT happy on my Therm-a-Rest Z-lite.  

It’s Hard. Like Really, Really Hard. Train adequately. We saw a lot of people leave the trail because it was way harder than they expected. We credit ourselves with finishing (despite our lack of preparation) because we took it one day at a time, and didn’t have any expectations tied to the trail. The more you train, the more you will be able to enjoy your time. 

Plan Your Resupply Strategy: If you are mailing boxes, you’ll want to have the details nailed down about one month in advance. The locations are extremely remote, and shipping takes quite a while. 

John Muir Trail Resources 

PCTA – John Muir Trail Resource Library

JMT Wilderness Conservancy – Hiker Resources

John Muir Trail Map on the FarOut app 

Northbound Permit Process

Southbound Permit Info

Walk-up Permit Info

Katie is a freelance writer based in Salt Lake City, Utah. When she’s not guzzling instant coffee in the backcountry, you can find her down the ski slopes or using inappropriate language around children at the climbing gym. For ramblings, rants, and the occasional dose of inspirational musing follow her on Instagram or her blog Small Towns to Summits. Maybe someday soon she’ll start posting there again, you’ll just have to follow to find out.

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Region: Pacific West (Death Valley National Park, California)
Length: 16-20 miles (2 days)

Physical Difficulty: Easy

• Route gains ~250 feet per mile heading into the canyon
• Tread isn’t marked trail, but footing isn’t hard
• Short hike; water carries aren’t excessive even if spring is dry

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Walk-up permit easily available for overnight camping
• Parking on the side of the road is simple
• Route-finding needed, no trail across wash into canyon

Season: Winter
Elevation (Average): ~1,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: ~2,900 feet

Hiking Death Valley Indian Pass Canyon

This is the second route from our recent trip to Death Valley. The Cottonwood-Marble Canyon Loop can be found here.

The Death Valley Indian Pass Canyon hike is, for the most part, a mellow backpacking overnight. Most people will be fine leaving later in the morning and having plenty of time at camp, then enjoying just a few hours on the way out the next morning. The biggest thing with this route is figuring out where to go. The foothills of the Funeral Mountains all look very similar, and it’s easy to wind up between two massive volcanic ash features and get funneled into the wrong canyon. Stay on top of the GPS track, and you should be fine.

Keep in mind that the GPS track doesn’t have to be followed to the most minute degree: use your eyes and your brain to navigate the best direct path, but use the track as a guideline for getting to the right canyon.

The hike begins by leaving your car by the side of the road and walking out into the desert wash. It feels like the start of a post-apocalyptic movie, but you’ll be fine. There is no trail, so we just veered in the direction of the canyon entrance, picking our way over rocks and walking through the smoothest sections of the wash. Four miles later, we were at the foothills of the Funeral Mountains, and Jeff used the GPS track to guide us around the last corner and into the canyon. There are a few spots where you’ll have to circle around a dry waterfall, but overall, it’s a very straightforward hike from here on out.

About 3.5 miles later we reached a massive cairn, and from here, it was less than a mile to the spring. The section through the canyon is lovely. Some parts seem more like a trail, but mostly this is desert walking: choose the path of least resistance. Once we reached the spring we filled up on water, then set up camp on a nice ledge a bit farther on. You can continue past this point and gain more elevation toward the pass, but the out-and-back to the spring is a wonderful winter trip.

Getting to Death Valley Indian Pass Canyon

Closest Major City: Las Vegas, Nevada (151 miles)

This “trailhead” is super easy to access: you’ll just park your car on the side of US 190 at mile marker 104, a few miles from Furnace Creek Ranch. Be sure to grab an overnight permit from the Furnace Creek Visitor Center and leave it on your dashboard.

Note that our GPX track might put your vehicle parking space at the wrong mile marker up the road, so just make sure you park at Mile 104 and aim towards the GPX track and mouth of the canyon from there.

You can get to Death Valley in just two hours from Las Vegas by heading south to Pahrump, Nevada. I recommend grabbing food and gas in Pahrump, then driving 190 into the park via Death Valley Junction.

When to Hike Death Valley Indian Pass Canyon

This is a perfect winter overnight, and can also be hiked in early spring and later fall, if you don’t mind hotter temperatures. We hiked this route in the middle of February, and it was glorious. Temperatures were in the mid 60s during the day, and mid-30s overnight, at around 2,000 feet of elevation. Weather is cooler in the canyon once the sun drops out of sight, so be prepared with a warmer sleeping bag than you think you might need, and a few extra layers.

Logistics: Permits / Camping, Navigation, Water

Much like our other Death Valley route, the face-value logistics are simple: it’s an out-and-back; you literally park your car on the side of the road and walk away from it. But desert hiking takes extra planning and navigation, so come prepared.

Permits / Camping: Permits are free and available as walk-ups at the Furnace Creek Visitor Center. If you have a National Parks Annual Pass that will take care of the park fee. If not, you’ll need to pay the $30. Death Valley is odd because you don’t pay an entrance fee at the park, since US 190 is a route through this region, but for usage like this, you’ll need to pay. You don’t need to reserve anything for overnights in advance, and camping is allowed anywhere along the route, just be sure to follow all LNT guidelines.

Navigation: If anything will mess you up on this route, it’s finding the right canyon entrance. Once you start across the wash, aim yourself at the mouth of the canyon on your map or GPS tracker, and just stay vigilant. Once you enter the canyon it’s easy, but before then, the wash can be more confusing than you think. Luckily, if you get confused, you can just turn around and see your car and orient yourself from there. Getting out is easy—you’ll be able to see the salt flat from 5 miles back, and the road appears in eyesight faster than you think it will.

Water: The spring at the back of the canyon should be reliable, but as always, plan like it won’t be. With the navigational uncertainty of the route, you don’t want to run out of water if you end up hiking longer than you anticipate. We had cooler weather and carried 3 liters each, preparing to not have any at the back of the canyon.

Know Before You Go

Cell Service: There is barely any. Jeff had better luck with Verizon than I did with ATT, and there’s no wireless unless you’re staying at one of the locations. Download the GPX file before you enter the park, and make sure it’s available offline. I also recommend taking a screenshot of the hike description, and planning whatever you need in advance.

Food and Gas: You can get food and gas in the park, but it’s expensive and options are limited. Pahrump and Beatty both have food and fuel. Coming from Vegas means you hit Pahrump right in the middle of the drive. The town has an Albertsons and Walmart.

Temperature Fluctuations: While it might be 60 degrees or warmer when you start, desert nights are cold, and desert nights in the canyon are colder. Bring warmer camp clothes and a sleeping bag than you think you might need. Sun protection in the form of sunscreen, a hat, or a sun shirt is recommended for crossing the wash. I carried a 20-degree sleeping bag and a puffy and my feet got pretty cold at night.

Pack It Out: Just going to remind you all to pack out your poop.

Campfires: Fires were not permitted in the backcountry during our trip. This was noted at the visitors center and the ranger station.

Flash Floods: Flash floods can happen at any time of year, but visitors and hikers in fall and spring should use extra caution and keep tabs on the weather, especially in the canyons.

Resources

Death Valley backcountry permit

Death Valley weather

The post Death Valley Indian Pass Canyon appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

Region: Pacific West (Death Valley National Park, California)
Length: 31 miles (2-3 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate 

• Route gains nearly 7,000 feet, either gradually (clockwise) or more steeply (counterclockwise)
• Miles of moderate trail interspersed with unmaintained sections
• High sun exposure and tricky footing through some sections

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Loop hike with easily accessible parking lot
• Camping allowed anywhere along route
• Middle of route not clearly marked, easy to miss turns
• Water is likely available, but check flow and plan for long carries

Season: Winter
Elevation (Average): ~2,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: ~6,900 feet

Hiking the Death Valley Cottonwood-Marble Canyon Loop

Death Valley is an incredible winter backpacking destination, but you won’t find well-marked backpacking trails or handy maps at the trailheads. Most of Death Valley’s well-known, established trails are day hikes located near Furnace Creek and Stovepipe Wells. These are worth hiking, but you’ll search a little more and work a little harder for the backpacking loops. The Cottonwood-Marble Canyon Loop is a beautiful 31-mile loop that takes you through multiple canyons, across rocky, sandy washes, and onto a ridgeline for views of the valley below. Much of the route is very gradual, with a few steeper sections.

We started hiking at the 2WD parking area, about 15 minutes down a dirt (sand) road from Stovepipe Wells. This will take you two miles along a more rugged section of road until you reach another parking area for 4WD vehicles. Most higher clearance cars and trucks will be fine driving the last two miles to the 4WD parking area, but we didn’t want to risk it. From here, we continued straight into Cottonwood Canyon and began a long section, hiking what seemed to be a very rugged, likely impassable 4WD road up the wash between canyon walls. This isn’t a buff trail—expect rough gravel, rocks, and lots of sharp things.

Once you reach the wilderness designation sign, the route turns into more of a trail, alternating between easy desert hiking and overgrown thorns, fallen trees, and loose side hill. Like much desert hiking, this is a choose-your-own adventure route. Our GPX track will keep you going in the right direction, but picking your way around some parts will be up to you.

After the first seasonal spring around 12 miles, there were several tough miles through dense, thorny undergrowth alternating with traversing the loose sides of the canyon. We filled up on water at the 15-mile Cottonwood Canyon Spring, but there was much better camping 1/4 mile farther where the views opened up. This is also where we ran into a family of wild horses!

From this choked-up section (and our campsite) was miles of open wash, picking your way around shrubs and terrain changes through the wash. The route turns into one of the similar-looking canyons, where it narrows until you bank a hard right to gain the ridgeline and drop into Deadhorse Canyon. This was the most challenging section to navigate, and I recommend staying on top of your GPS / map / whatever navigation you use.

Once you climb the short, steep ridge to the high point, you’ll descend steeply down… another choose your own adventure. The footing is loose and you’ll be picking your way around desert vegetation and boulders. The narrows section is the best part of the route, and well worth the effort to get here. From the narrows, the route opens back up to the wash, past the second parking area, and finishes with the two-mile lollipop segment back to the car.

How to Get to the Death Valley Cottonwood-Marble Canyon Loop

Closest Major City: Las Vegas (151 miles)

Stovepipe Wells / Cottonwood Canyon Road
Cottonwood Canyon Road Trailhead

The main road through Death Valley is US 190, accessed by US-95 from Vegas. You can take this all the way to Beatty, Nevada, to get to Stovepipe Wells faster, but I recommend heading south to Pahrump, grabbing food and snacks, then driving 190 into the park and checking out the sites around the Furnace Creek area.

This route takes off from a large parking area about 8 miles down a dirt / sand road from the Stovepipe Wells location in Death Valley. We’ve linked it above, but just start driving down the road past the Stovepipe Wells Campground (same side of the road as the gas station) and you won’t be able to miss the 2WD parking area on your right.

Death Valley Cottonwood-Marble Canyon Loop Season / Direction

Season: This route was perfect in the winter. We did it in early February, and temperatures were in the high 60s to mid 70s during the day, dropping to the high 20s at night. We camped above 4,000 feet, which meant the evening and morning was much colder than it would have been at the floor of the valley. This route is also doable in early spring or late fall—you get a little more leeway with the famous Death Valley heat since you wind up a few thousand feet above sea level.

Direction: You can hike this route clockwise or counterclockwise. We stayed straight and headed into Cottonwood Canyon (clockwise) after the second parking area, but you can veer right toward Deadhorse Canyon. We saw a few groups of hikers do both.

Hiking this route clockwise is a much milder gain to the high point, though you’ll be gradually climbing for longer. Our direction gained about 200 feet per mile for 17 miles, then had the short, steep climb to the ridge. We had a very steep descent toward Deadhorse Canyon. This also meant we finished with the best section on the second day. Going the opposite direction means 12 miles of climbing instead of 17, but also involves an extended, steep ascent to the high point, followed by an entire day (or more) of mellow descent.

Our two-day clockwise itinerary had us starting from the trailhead (2WD parking area) around 9 a.m., then hiking gradually uphill until we reached the spring near mile 15 around 3 p.m. We continued on to some better camping options another 1/4-ish mile up the trail. We started hiking the next morning around 7 a.m., continuing up the wash, over the ridge, then down into the canyon to finish up around 2 p.m.

Logistics: Permits / Camping, Navigation, Water

Permits / Camping: Permits are free and available as walk-ups, but obtaining one helps track your location if something should go wrong, and is always recommended. Stop at Stovepipe Wells or Furnace Creek Ranch Visitor Center and just tell them what your plan is. We have a National Parks Annual Pass (fancy!), but if you don’t have one, you’ll need to pay the vehicle fee. Unlike other national parks, you don’t need to reserve anything in advance. Camping is allowed anywhere along the route, just be sure to follow all LNT guidelines.

Navigation: Make sure your phone or GPS unit has fully charged batteries and backup. This isn’t an insanely challenging route, but it’s easy to miss turns, gain the ridge in the wrong spot, or get turned around in the open part of the middle section.

Water: There was a seasonal spring at mile 12 of our clockwise loop, then a more reliable spring (Cottonwood Canyon Spring) at mile 15. We just filled up once at Cottonwood Canyon Spring, and had three liters of capacity each. If you decide to camp at the better sites past Cottonwood Canyon Spring, fill up at the spring before you move on. You can still access the water farther up the trail, but it’s more challenging. If your weather forecast is warmer, you’ll want more water capacity.

Know Before You Go

Desert Hiking: Since so much of this route (and desert hiking in general) requires attention to navigation, choosing the best route around obstacles, and cross-country travel, we recommend this route only be hiked by experienced backpackers, desert travelers, or with someone who has navigational experience. We made one extended error when we didn’t veer out of the wide wash into our canyon. It all looks the same, and it’s easy to miss your turn. We ran into another duo of hikers who had made several wrong turns, resulting in four miles of extra hiking. When you’re rationing water, that’s a lot of extra miles.

Temperature Fluctuations: The desert is a place of extremes. It might be 80 degrees on the valley floor when you begin your hike, but drop into the 30s overnight. Prepare accordingly, and bring warmer camp clothes and a sleeping bag than you think you might need. Sun protection in the form of sunscreen, a hat, or a sun shirt is recommended for the daytime, but don’t leave the puffy at home… you’ll want it in the early mornings and evenings at higher elevations.

Pack It Out: This is the desert. Pack out your poop.

Water Planning: There were several springs flowing when we hiked in February, but water availability should never be relied upon for desert hiking. It’s better to carry too much rather than too little. We camped near a spring at mile 16, and had seen one other seasonal water source before that. We carried three liters each, which was enough in the milder winter temperatures.

General Preparation: Death Valley is remote, rugged, and has little to no cell service. Map your route(s) beforehand, and take advantage of stocking up on gas, food, and supplies in Pahrump. There is an Albertsons and a WalMart right on the way. Gas in Death Valley was nearly $5 per gallon, so it’s worth fueling up outside of the park.

Campfires: Fires were not permitted in the backcountry during our trip. This was noted at the visitors center and the ranger station.

Flash Floods: Flash floods can happen at any time of year, but visitors and hikers in fall and spring should use extra caution and keep tabs on the weather, especially in the canyons.

Resources

Death Valley backcountry permit

Death Valley weather

The post Death Valley Cottonwood-Marble Canyon Loop appeared first on Backpacking Routes.