Region: Southwest (Zion National Park, Utah)
Distance: 35 miles (optional side trails for 5.4 additional miles) 

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• Two-mile section of trail is through sand
• Minimum distance hiked one day is ~12 miles 
• Several long water carries

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Permits are necessary
• Point-to-point, must shuttle or hitchhike
• Clearly marked trails

Season: Spring, Fall
Elevation (average): 6,500 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 4,885 feet (-6,670 feet)

Hiking the Zion Traverse Trail

This route crosses Zion National Park from the northwest to the southeast and showcases an amazing sampling of the park while avoiding the infamous national park crowds until the last three miles. The route is usually traveled from north to south and passes by Angels Landing near the end of the trail (hence the crowds). We started at Lee Pass Trailhead in the northwest corner of the park. This trailhead is not used as much as those along the scenic highway, and you will see very few people in this area of the park. 

The trail starts with a long descent through a wooded area and has some incredible overlooks of the mountains and Kolob Canyons. Next, you come to the river and follow it through the canyon until reaching your campsite for the evening. There is an optional side hike to Kolob Arch, which I recommend. This is a beautiful area where you are surrounded by the colorful red rock Zion is known for.

 The second day, you will continue through the canyon with some minor climbs and will end up in a cattle pasture on private land (they have an agreement with the national park). This sounds boring, but the views from this section were some of my favorites—lots of beautiful red mountains in every direction with happy cows grazing nearby! After this, you reach the section of trail through sand (great for working on those calf muscles). Here you get overlooks of rock-climbing areas. This section is very exposed and there is little shade. The trail continues into the center of the park where the landscape becomes more sparse. The second evening we camped alongside a canyon.

On day three, you pass through a dense forest, which was the only section of the trail I didn’t think had jaw-dropping beauty. However, the views of the afternoon made up for it as we reached the West Rim Trail and the 360-degree views of the heart of Zion. There are some great campsites here with amazing overlooks. 

On day four, we continued along the West Rim Trail with some ups and downs carved out from the rock on the mountain. This brings you to Angels Landing and MANY tourists, which can be a shock after seeing almost no one. After your optional detour to Angels Landing (permits required), continue down a paved trail of switchbacks to reach the shuttle on the scenic highway. This trail is a wonderful showcase of the beauty and diversity within Zion. 

Note: The Zion Traverse used to continue to East Zion, but a rockfall on the Weeping Rock Trail in August 2019 has made it impossible to continue the hike past the scenic drive. We asked some locals about when this trail could be reopened and the answers ranged from 10 to 40 years. Prior to the rockslide the trail was very unstable and getting approval to make a new trail in a national park is a very complicated process. I wouldn’t plan on being able to do the full Zion Traverse including East Zion for many more years.

Zion Traverse Permits

Zion National Park permits are found here.

We started looking at backcountry / camping permits in mid-September for any weekend in October (about 4-6 weeks out). There was only one weekend that still had available campsites. Camping in Zion is all reservation based, but there is some walk-in availability and some locations where you can choose your site when you arrive, though you still need to reserve in advance.

There are three main camping areas: Kolob Canyons, Wildcat Canyon, and West Rim. For Kolob Canyons, the ideal sites are 7, 8, 9, and 10 because staying here cuts down your mileage for the second day and allows you to take the short side trip to Kolob Arch. 

Wildcat Canyon is an at-large camping area, so you do not need to book a specific site. We found it a little challenging to find a good campsite in this area, so be sure to ask the rangers for advice. 

The West Rim campsites I would recommend are 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5. Campsites 1 and 2 are near a seasonal water source, we stayed at 2 and had an incredible view of the canyon.

For the Kolob Canyons and West Rim campsites, only half are available online, the other half are walk-ins. We booked sites online and “upgraded” to some walk-in sites when we picked up our permit. Personally, we were unwilling to risk not securing a permit. 

Be prepared for permit pickup to take 30-60 minutes. The backcountry office issues many different permits that must be picked up in person, so this was a much longer line than I have seen in other national parks. 

*Adding Angels Landing requires an additional permit which is fairly competitive. There are rangers stationed at the beginning of this hike checking permits at all times. You can learn more about the options for securing this permit here.

How to Get to the Zion Traverse

Closest Major City: Las Vegas, Nevada (150 miles)
Trailhead 1– Lee Pass Trailhead 
Trailhead 2– The Grotto (you cannot drive here, must take the free shuttle from the main visitor center)

If you do not live within driving distance, I recommend flying into Las Vegas and renting a car. Zion is about three hours from the airport and this gives you the chance to add side trips to Valley of Fire State Park, Bryce Canyon National Park, or explore other areas of Zion. You can take a shuttle from Las Vegas to Zion, but it can take seven hours and involves a layover in St. George. We landed in Las Vegas at 10 p.m. and stayed at a dispersed camping site about halfway and finished the drive in the morning. 

Because this hike is point-to-point, you must car shuttle, hire an outfitter, or hitchhike. We only had one rental car, so we hired an outfitter to shuttle us between the two trailheads. There were two options that we could find last fall, but now I see many other options. We used Red Rock Shuttle for a ride from Springdale to Lee Pass Trailhead departing at 9 a.m. The cost was $55 per person with a four-person minimum (including other parties) or they cancel. This is the lowest price I have seen.

We did meet two guys at Lee Pass Trailhead who hitchhiked. They said they got a ride to La Verkin, and then were able to pay someone about $40 to get a ride to the Lee Pass Trailhead. If you are flexible on time, this could be an acceptable option but it isn’t very reliable considering how out of the way the starting trailhead is from a town or another point of interest.

We parked our car at the main Zion National Park visitor center and walked about a mile to the outfitter to get on the shuttle. The parking at the outfitter was $20/day, but the Zion Visitor Center has free overnight parking for those with backcountry permits. It can be hard to get a parking spot at the visitor center during the busy season, so make sure to get there early.

Because this is a national park, there is an entrance fee. You can either buy a seven-day pass to Zion, use the America The Beautiful Pass, or buy an annual pass to Zion. Whatever option you choose, you must bring the pass with you on the shuttle. When you take the shuttle to Lee Pass Trailhead you are leaving the park and re-entering. We got a firm scolding for leaving our pass in our car. 

At the end of our hike, we took the free park shuttle from the Grotto Trailhead back to the visitor center and retrieved our car. We stayed one more night at the main park campground and split a group campsite with other backpackers we met on the trail. I would recommend spending some time driving the highway through East Zion after your hike; there are lots of pretty places to park and explore the washes. 

When to Hike the Zion Traverse Trail

The best time of year to hike this route is spring and fall. Winter can be too cold with the possibility of snow and guarantee of below-freezing temperatures at night. On the opposite side, summer is too warm for such an exposed trail with limited/seasonal water sources.

In my opinion, the best times would be April, May, September, or October. We hiked this trail the last weekend of October and experienced highs in the 50s-60s and overnight lows in the 20s. Crowding is not a big issue as this hike is permitted and there are many people who choose to just do a single night in the backcountry and hike out-and-back. There were only two other people doing the full route when we were. 

Zion Traverse Sample Itinerary

Day 1: 6.5 mi. Lee Pass Trailhead to Kolab Canyons site 10 

Day 2: 12.6 mi. Kolab Canyons site 10 to Wildcat Canyon

Day 3: 13 mi. Wildcat Canyon to West Rim site 2

Day 4: 4.4 mi. West Rim site 2 to The Grotto

For a sample two-day itinerary, you would only camp at Wildcat Canyon.

Zion Traverse Terrain

The trail goes back and forth between forested areas and exposed desert areas, with the primary terrain being exposed desert. The trail is very well-maintained and well-marked. The only difficulty in losing the trail would be after a snowfall. Sections of the West Rim Trail can be very muddy depending on the time of year. The entirety of the trail is well-developed and all intersections are well marked. With the GPX downloaded and this map you are more than prepared.

Zion Traverse Logistics

WAG Bag Requirement: You are required to use a WAG Bag within national park boundaries. However, this can be avoided pretty easily. There are pit toilets at the Hop Valley Trailhead and at the base of Angels Landing. Also, after passing through Wildcat Canyon there is a section of trail where you leave national park boundaries, meaning you can dig a cathole here. You should carry a WAG Bag just in case regardless.

Zion Traverse Water: There are three reliable spring water sources available that are evenly spaced out. Some of the other springs are seasonal. When picking up your permit from the backcountry office they will have detailed information about the springs. In addition, many of the shuttle companies will drop off a water cache at Hop Valley Trailhead for an additional fee or you can cache water yourself before starting. It is important to get updated information on the cyanotoxin that has been found in many creeks throughout Zion; at the time of this writing all creek and river water has been deemed unfilterable in Zion and you should avoid submerging your head in it. 

Know Before You Go

I would recommend securing permits before counting on doing this trail, unless you have the time and flexibility to go to the backcountry office with several different start dates. Also, because of the exposure on this trail, weather plays a factor. Completing this trail in the depth of summer heat or winter snow would not be recommended. The Zion NP area can see extremes in both directions. It’s important to realize that extreme and unpredicted weather can emerge in this topography: hail and thunderstorms, unexpected snow, and extreme heat and cold.

Resources

Permits 
National Park Service 
Map 

Abby Fincel resides in Missouri and is always trying to maximize her PTO to get in one more trip out West. She’s infamous to her coworkers for working a full day, flying out after work, and hitting the trail the next morning. She fell fully in love with backpacking after hiking the JMT in 2021 and spends many of her days working as a dentist daydreaming about her next outdoor adventure. When not hiking, she can be found training for marathons. She just completed her 10th marathon, in addition to running the Boston Marathon. Running and backpacking both satisfy her outdoor itch and endorphin addiction. 

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Region: Southwest (Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Utah)

Distance: 11-45 miles (route depending)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• The trail is undefined and often involves walking through water and over deep sand.
• This route involves careful attention to weather to avoid flash flood danger.
• Like many canyon ecosystems, Coyote Gulch requires attention to navigation to avoid accidentally venturing into side canyons.

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Coyote Gulch access lies down Hole-in-the-Rock Road, which is washboarded with possible washouts.
• Permits are required for Coyote Gulch in addition to several canyon-specific regulations. Though permits are currently free and either self-filled-out at the trailheads or picked up at the Escalante Interagency Visitor Center, keep an eye on the latest regulations involving trips in Coyote Gulch. 
• Some route variations require a shuttle between trailheads.
• You have numerous choices on how to approach Coyote Gulch.

Season: Spring / Fall

Elevation Gain: 1,000-2,000 feet

Max Elevation: 4,100 feet

Hiking Coyote Gulch

Coyote Gulch is a tributary canyon of the Escalante River in South-Central Utah running for slightly over 20 miles from the top (near Dry Fork) to the bottom where it meets the Canyon of the Escalante River. Several access points provide a choose-your-own-adventure experience depending on the mileage and challenge you’re looking for. The routes through Coyote Gulch described below travel through some of the finest canyon country ecosystems in Southern Utah, lush with vegetation and wildlife, natural bridges and arches, waterfalls, and cultural sites. These areas necessitate respect in traveling through commensurate with the awe Coyote Gulch views elicit given the fragile resources present.

This guide describes multiple routes to explore Coyote Gulch. Trailheads can be used to access Coyote Gulch as an out-and-back hike or using a shuttle. The longest possible variation would be doing an out-and-back hike from the Dry Fork Trailhead, which would total over 45-miles. The shortest way to access all the most notable features of the canyon is the technical Crack-in-the-Wall to Sneak Route Loop. Trailhead access points and route options are discussed below but Coyote Gulch’s access points and the larger area provide myriad opportunities to find the route that fits what you’re looking for. This guide is not exhaustive on the possible ways to link these access points. Desire to suffer, water levels, or possession of a packraft are all factors that might determine your trip in Coyote Gulch. The author has personally hiked the Crack-in-the-Wall to Sneak Route Loop (both directions, multiple times), the Dry Fork to Crack-in-the-Wall route, the Red Well to Crack-in-the-Wall route, and Hurricane Wash (on its own, out-and-back).

Main Canyon

The lower canyon, beginning near the confluence of Coyote Gulch and Hurricane Wash, involves mixed hiking through sand and the almost constantly flowing main branch of Coyote Gulch, which carved this oasis 900 feet into the sandstone layers above on its course toward the Escalante River. This mixed hiking descends farther into the canyon as the soaring heights of the walls above grow until you reach Jacob Hamblin Arch. The arch is massive and forms a large amphitheater on a bend in the canyon with several large campsites nearby. From there, you can scramble up the loose talus slopes underneath the arch or follow flowing water around the bend to continue down-canyon. The next feature you come across is Coyote Natural Bridge, which forms a massive doorway in the sandstone. Descending farther leads you through more sand, water, and jungles of tamarisk, Gambel’s oak, cottonwoods, willows, horsetail, and other riparian vegetation. 

As you near the Escalante River, Coyote Gulch snakes through large canyon-bottom boulder fields as the waterway cascades toward its terminus. Picturesque waterfalls and sweeping walls above beckon hikers to take their time through this section. This section is where it’s most visible that Coyote Gulch is a dynamic system. Shifting boulders may necessitate Class 3 scrambling to navigate around features. 

Near the bottom of Coyote Gulch, the waterway deepens, and reaching the river beyond requires the most permanent scramble of the primary canyon after the canyon-right turnoff to climb out via Crack-in-the-Wall (described below). The final scramble to the river is fairly obvious and traverses the rock face on canyon-right heading down-canyon. Reaching the river provides the reward of entering the larger Canyon of the Escalante and gazing up at Stevens Arch, one of the largest natural arches in the world. 

Dry Fork

At ~25-miles, Dry Fork to Crack-in-the-Wall is the longest route (not involving an out-and-back) to explore Coyote Gulch and starts at the Dry Fork Trailhead (the BLM recently installed an Upper Dry Fork Trailhead too, complete with a parking area and pit toilets; either can access Coyote Gulch). These trailheads lie approximately 25 miles down Hole-in-the-Rock Road. If you have additional time, the Dry Fork area is popular due to its access to several short slot canyons, including Peekaboo, Spooky, and Brimstone Canyons. Depending on how you access Coyote Gulch from the trailhead(s), you pass directly by the entrances to these side destinations. More information about the slot canyons can be found on the Bureau of Land Management’s website for the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. 

Beyond the slot canyon access, the Dry Fork trail continues into Coyote Gulch. It is aptly named as this part of the route is exposed hiking through deep sand. There is no water in the Dry Fork of Coyote Gulch (reliable water only becomes available after the confluence with Hurricane Wash) and this route is recommended if the goal is only to increase the mileage of your overall trip. Given its relative lack of scenery and length (compared to other routes described), the Dry Fork route remains an unpopular way to access Coyote Gulch. 

Red Well

The Red Well Trailhead sits approximately 30 miles down Hole-in-the-Rock Road in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument and provides access to Coyote Gulch after crossing the boundary into the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area (more information about land designations can be found below). Red Well is a much quicker way to access the main canyon than the previous route and is similar to Hurricane Wash in terrain and mileage. Reliable water becomes more available after the confluence with Hurricane Wash. The Red Well route is roughly 17 miles if exiting at Crack-in-the-Wall.

Hurricane Wash

Hurricane Wash is accessed from a large parking area directly on Hole-in-the-Rock Road in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument 3 miles beyond the turnoff to Red Well. This route is roughly 16 miles if exiting at Crack-in-the-Wall. Reliable water is not available until you enter the main canyon of Coyote Gulch ~5.5 miles from the trailhead. 

Crack-in-the-Wall to Sneak Route Loop

This ~10.5-mile loop from the Crack-in-the-Wall Trailhead along the 40-Mile Ridge spur road is increasing in popularity, though it requires technical consideration for navigating out of the canyon. This route begins at the trailhead and travels across the plateau above Coyote Gulch to Crack-in-the-Wall, a feature above the canyon near where it meets the Escalante River. The route to the canyon edge is well-defined and travels through deep sand. After reaching the Crack-in-the-Wall, scramble down the feature (a narrow fissure in the rock face) to the top of a large sand dune above the canyon. Navigating this feature may necessitate using a rope to lower packs as it is quite narrow and requires Class 3 scrambling. Beyond Crack-in-the-Wall, descend the 700-foot sand dune to Coyote Gulch. 

You enter the canyon near where it meets the Escalante River. From here, tag the river (requires more scrambling, described above) or continue up-canyon toward Jacob Hamblin Arch. Just before reaching the arch (canyon left, traveling up-canyon), you’ll be walking on a bench above the water and the Sneak Route will present itself. The Sneak Route involves a 45-degree friction climb out of the canyon, which may necessitate placing gear (most commonly a rope to act as a handline) as a fall on this Class 4 terrain could lead to a tumble down the sandstone grade back toward the canyon. Those unfamiliar with sandstone friction climbing might prefer to do this route in reverse to make placing a rope more straightforward and descending the Sneak Route rather than ascending it. For those comfortable with this kind of terrain and not placing a rope, it is much easier to climb up the Sneak Route than down. The National Park Service emphasizes that it does not maintain a rope on the Sneak Route and periodically removes them if left by Coyote Gulch hikers. After coming out of Coyote Gulch, you can navigate across the well-cairned plateau to the Water Tank Trailhead (and walk the road back to the Crack-in-the-Wall Trailhead) or cut across directly to the latter via a less-defined cut-off trail.

Getting to Coyote Gulch

Nearest City: Salt Lake City, Utah (359 miles from the Crack-in-the-Wall Trailhead via I-15).

Nearest Town: Escalante, Utah (~40 miles from the Crack-in-the-Wall Trailhead). 

From Salt Lake City, it’s 359 miles to the Crack-in-the-Wall Trailhead via I-15 (7-8 hour drive). This route takes you directly past Bryce Canyon National Park and travels through the town of Escalante. Hole-in-the-Rock Road provides all-access to Coyote Gulch and begins 6 miles east of Escalante along Highway 12. Take note of Escalante Outfitters (https://www.escalanteoutfitters.com) while you pass through town as they make arguably the best pizza in Utah and is a worthy stop after any trip down Hole-in-the-Rock Road. 

Google Maps Link for Coyote Gulch: https://goo.gl/maps/Q5Y2wdmvScsVmhtUA

Trailhead and notable location coordinates (note some trailheads have multiple names on various internet resources and are compiled here):

Upper Dry Fork Trailhead: 37.47902, -111.24152

Red Well Trailhead: 37.42873, -111.14847

Hurricane Wash Trailhead: 37.38254, -111.13310

Water Tank/Jacob Hamblin Arch/Sneak Route Trailhead: 37.39341, -111.04663

Crack-in-the-Wall/40-Mile Ridge Trailhead: 37.40456, -111.00580

Crack-in-the-Wall: 37.41920, -110.98513

Sneak Route: 37.42004, -111.04170

When to Hike Coyote Gulch

Coyote Gulch is best hiked in spring (March-May) and fall (September-November). These seasons allow for mild temperatures (highs often in the 70s-80s) with cool evenings typical of the Colorado Plateau. Hiking in summer requires dealing with extreme heat and winter brings the possibility of snow and subfreezing temperatures. Mosquitos may be present in riparian areas of the Colorado Plateau as late as May.

Coyote Gulch Terrain

Coyote Gulch is a riparian ecosystem full of wildlife (from deer to frogs) and vegetation and contains waterfalls and natural arches and bridges. It is a deep, wide canyon in most places but narrows at some points (into an amphitheater near Jacob Hamblin Arch and a boulder field near the Escalante River). Accessing Coyote Gulch from Dry Fork, Red Well, or Hurricane Wash necessitates navigating more exposed dry canyons to access the more lush lower canyon. Expect constant sand and wet feet in many places. Exiting (or entering) the canyon via Crack-in-the-Wall requires navigating a tight, scrambly feature and a 700-foot sandy incline, and exiting (or entering) via the Sneak Route requires a 45-degree friction climb and may necessitate placing a rope for those unfamiliar with the terrain. 

Logistics: Direction, Land Management, Water

Permits: Backpacking in Coyote Gulch currently requires a self-serve permit filled out at the trailhead(s) or picked up at the Escalante Interagency Visitor Center, which aids the National Park Service in managing recreation in the area. Make sure you check the National Park Service website for the latest information regarding Coyote Gulch regulations.

Land Designations: Coyote Gulch mostly lies within the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area and is managed by the National Park Service. Trailheads including Dry Fork, Red Well, Hurricane Wash, and Water Tank technically lie in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, which is managed by the Bureau of Land Management, but the National Park Service sets the regulations for hiking in Coyote Gulch. It is managed as wilderness (https://wilderness.net/learn-about-wilderness/default.php). There are currently no restrictions on campsite selection beyond camping away from water. Considering how human noise travels in the canyons is good practice in site selection. Large, defined campsites are frequent and camping in these well-used areas mitigates further resource impacts from creating new sites.

Water: Water is plentiful in lower Coyote Canyon which follows flowing water to the Escalante River. Reliable water can be found most anywhere down-canyon of the confluence with Hurricane Wash. Do not expect water in other parts of possible routes, though it may be found after rain in perennial streams (like Hurricane Wash) or in potholes and tenajas. All water must be treated given the popularity of the area for recreation and cattle-grazing. 

Human Waste: the National Park Service requires all human waste and toilet paper to be packed out of Coyote Gulch using a portable waste containment bag (or Wag Bag). These are widely available at most outfitters in Utah, including in the town of Escalante. This regulation exists because of concerns over human waste proliferation and water quality in Coyote Gulch. A pit toilet exists in Coyote Gulch (on canyon-left, down-canyon from Cliff Arch) for recreational use. A second pit toilet is present on many maps and internet sources near Jacob Hamblin Arch, but this toilet is no longer present. Pit toilets are present at the Dry Fork Trailheads and beyond the turn to 40-Mile Ridge Road at Dance Hall Rock. No pit toilets are present at the Water Tank, Crack-in-the-Wall, Red Well, or Hurricane Wash Trailheads.

Campfires: Campfires are not allowed in Coyote Gulch given the lack of available firewood.

Dogs: Dogs are not allowed in Coyote Gulch.

Cultural Sites: Coyote Gulch used to be inhabited by the Ancestral Puebloans and contains remnants of that habitation, including dwellings and rock art. These are nonrenewable resources and need to be treated with the utmost respect and reverence. 

Special Gear: Waste containment bags are essential if traveling overnight in order to pack out human waste. A rope may be desired to aid in navigating the Sneak Route or to lower packs at Crack-in-the-Wall. Breathable shoes (like trail running shoes) are likely the best bet for Coyote Gulch as much of the route travels through water and deep sand (a great combo). If temperatures are high during your trip, parts of the route (like Dry Fork or the plateau sections between the edge of the canyon and the Water Tank or Crack-in-the-Wall trailheads) might warrant a sun umbrella and attention to electrolytes, especially if you are traveling from a non-desert climate. 

Other Considerations: Coyote Gulch is seeing increasing popularity and attention by the internet, outdoor recreation community, and for management by the National Park Service. This necessitates cooperation, especially in areas like the Sneak Route and Crack-in-the-Wall, where multiple parties may be taking their time to carefully navigate features; or around Jacob Hamblin Arch, where camping is most popular and where noise travels very easily. Coyote Gulch is a serene place and is managed for qualities like solitude by the National Park Service. We need to work together to be considerate of one another while recreating in this place which, along with all U.S. public land, is owned collectively by all Americans and deeply meaningful to many.

Know Before You Go

Coyote Gulch has specific regulations regarding permits, human waste, campfires, and dogs. Make sure you are in the know on the latest regulations from the National Park Service before beginning your trip. Be aware of the technical aspects involved in some route options (especially the Sneak Route to Jacob Hamblin Arch) and take the appropriate precautions. 

As with any hike in canyon country, keep the weather in mind as flash floods are frequent in these ecosystems during rain events. The weather may also prevent access to Coyote Gulch as Hole-in-the-Rock Road is challenging even in dry conditions from frequent washboarding and washouts. Sedans can access some locations on Hole-in-the-Rock Road (Dry Fork and Hurricane Wash are usually good bets) but other locations like the Red Well, Water Tank, and Crack-in-the-Wall Trailheads require navigating things like washed-out cattle guards, washed out sections of road, and deep sand. A high-clearance all-wheel-drive vehicle is highly recommended for traveling to these locations. 

Hole-in-the-Rock Road is an ordeal to travel down and takes time. Do further research on the area. The vast Escalante District of the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area and the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument contain lifetimes of outdoor opportunity. A trip down the road to backpack Coyote Gulch can easily be combined with some car camping and a sense of adventure to visit destinations like Reflection Canyon or the road’s namesake, Hole-in-the-Rock.

Additional Resources

National Park Service Website: https://www.nps.gov/glca/planyourvisit/coyote-gulch.htm

Caleb Meyer (he/him) is a hiker and conservation social science researcher based in Utah. In addition to countless hikes, backpacking trips, and other generous times in the outdoors, Caleb hiked the Pacific Crest Trail in 2019 and the Colorado Trail in 2021. Outside of long-distance hiking, Caleb spends his time running, skiing, and working in public land management. Follow along on Instagram: @topohikes.

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Region: Southwest (Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Utah)

Distance: 15 miles (2 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Lightly defined trail can be hard to follow
• Difficult descent to Escalante River
• Slickrock can be tough to navigate

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Water roughly halfway
• Point-to-point route
• Great camping options

Season: Spring / Fall

Elevation Gain: 3,000 feet

Max Elevation: 6,805 feet

Hiking The Boulder Mail Trail

The Boulder Mail Trail is a historic route rooted in delivering the mail across the unforgiving terrain of southern Utah. An old telegraph line still runs most of the way from Boulder to Escalante and the Boulder Mail Trail parallels its path. The point-to-point hike is one of the most diverse in the area, while also being extremely accessible. The slickrock, striking canyons, and high plateaus that make up Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument are all present on this 15-mile route.

This backpacking route is comprised of three different segments. The northeast third of the trail is on a high plateau and undulating terrain that is smooth but can get muddy after snow or rain. It is a slow descent from 6,800 feet to the edge of Death Hollow Canyon and the start of the second segment. This first third has the smoothest, most well-defined, and easiest miles of the route. It is a warmup for a tough descent into one of the most unique canyons I have ever hiked through.

The second segment of the Boulder Mail Trail is the canyon. This is the highlight of the trip but also the most difficult. The route down is precarious and steep. Cairns mark the route, but it is still difficult to wind down the slickrock and to the creek below. It is a slow drop to the bottom and accentuated by a refreshing crossing of the cold, deep creek. This is the best camping and water for the route, so I recommend filling up in Death Hollow Creek and even camping there. The route follows the creek for a few miles and joins a part of the Death Hollow Loop when it finally climbs out of the deep canyon. This turn can be hard to find, so be cognizant and I recommend having a GPS track to ensure you climb out at the right spot. The climb out of the canyon is very similar to the drop into it. The slickrock has no trail and the elevation gain can be punishing. Follow the cairns.

Segment three begins with a long climb out of the canyon and crosses the signature expansive terrain of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. The route can be hard to follow at times, marked only by small cairns, and the surface ranges from soft sand to hard rock. But it is beautiful. The escape into nature is obvious and this lesser-traveled route offers ample spots to dry camp or simply take in the surrounding views in this third segment.

The 15-mile route ends with a climb over one last ridgeline and a drop to the outskirts of Escalante, Utah. The southwest corner is also the only place that backpackers should expect any cell service, and even here I found it faint. This route is about getting into the heart of Grand Staircase-Escalante; you can show everyone on social media later!

When to Hike The Boulder Mail Trail

The Boulder Mail Trail is best hiked in the spring and the fall, although I was able to travel the entire route in February. There was snow in February and the creek was especially cold, but there was a special kind of beauty with the surrounding mountains cloaked in white. Summer can be very hot on the exposed rock sections, but it is also doable with the right water capacity, knowledge, and preparation. I recommend hiking it in the shoulder seasons.

It is a point-to-point trail, so sorting out the logistics on how to get back to the car at one end is something to consider. Luckily the road from one trailhead to the other is straightforward and most cars will be traveling all the way through if hitching is a consideration. Also, I have done this trail as an out and back for 30 miles of enjoyment and also ended up back at my vehicle.

Boulder Mail Trail Terrain

The terrain is classic high desert. There are open, exposed bedrock (slickrock) sections, small shrubs, plants with stickers, and sand. It is a classic Utah route and has all the characteristics of many of the similar routes in the dry, arid state. I consumed more water than I expected and it is likely due to the subtle accumulation of elevation and the lack of moisture in the air.

Your feet will get wet. There really is no way to avoid having to wade through the deep, soft, flowing waters of Death Hollow Creek. It is not a scary crossing, but a mid-thigh saunter through the water. If backpacking, this is the perfect opportunity to bring camp shoes or Crocs and save your shoes and socks from getting soaked through.

Logistics: Direction, Land Management, Water

Land Management: This trail is in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, which means the regulations are much more lax than a national park. There is a ranger station in Escalante, Utah, where a free permit can be obtained. If the ranger station is closed, each trailhead has a register to simply mark when you start and when you will be finished.

Water: The only water on the Boulder Mail Trail is Death Hollow Creek. You cannot miss it as you will have to wade through the water, but I would recommend camping here and also topping off your water before the long climb out of the canyon.

Remoteness: There is very little connectivity on the Boulder Mail Trail. The only semblance of cell service that I had was the last couple of miles when I was exiting on the Escalante side. Be prepared to be fully contained and self-sufficient on your hike.

Permits: There are walk-up permits at the Escalante ranger station.

Poison Ivy: The route is known to have some poison ivy on the Death Hollow Creek portion. I have not had an issue with it, but former hiking partners have.

Additional Resources

Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument

NPS Escalante Website

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The Gila River Loop (Middle Fork-West Fork) is a 45-mile loop through the Gila Wilderness of New Mexico that can be hiked in 3-5 days. It features frequent river crossings, soaring canyon views, and the potential for additional miles or side trips. 

Region: Southwest (Gila Wilderness, New Mexico)

Distance: 44.5 miles (3-5 days)

Physical Difficulty: Easy

• Frequent river crossings
• One major climb and descent, otherwise mostly flat terrain
• Exposed conditions; canyons can get hot during the day and cold at night

Logistical Difficulty: Easy 

• No permits required
• Loop trail 
• Abundant water near the Middle and West Forks 

Season: Late Spring, Early Fall

Elevation (Average): 5,600 to 7,400 feet 

Total Elevation Gain: 3,500 feet 

Hiking the Gila River Middle Fork-West Fork Loop 

The Gila River Loop (Middle Fork-West Fork) is a perfect early- or late-season route for anyone looking for a hike full of beauty and low in difficulty. Minus one big climb and descent, the route is mostly flat. However, innumerable water crossings, poison ivy, possible very hot and very cool weather, and varied, beautiful terrain remove the possibility for boredom. 

I was looking for the perfect trip to bring my new-to-backpacking cousin something with low levels of suffering and high rewards. Besides both nights being pretty cold in mid-May, this route fit the bill. We were initially planning three nights out, but despite my inordinate caution around poison ivy, the evident burning and rash on my calves sped us up so that I could get to a shower and out in just two nights. 

The Middle Fork of the Gila River is an extremely popular alternate with Continental Divide Trail thru-hikers (who can be encountered in the wild if you’re lucky). This northern part of the loop passes a small hot spring early on and Jordan Hot Springs 7 miles in, while the southern part passes Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument at the West Fork Trailhead—all worthy side trips. Since the national monument has limited hours, it’s worth planning your trip or loop direction around a visit (we arrived right after closing and were super bummed). 

Overall, this is the perfect trip to bring a newbie backpacker willing to get their feet wet or a pleasant easing in or out of the hiking season. Views abound, water crossings add a fun challenge, and the beauty of the wild Gila will have you planning your next trip back before you’re even done. 

How to Get to the Gila River Middle Fork-West Fork Loop

Nearest Cities: 

Gila Hot Springs, New Mexico (4 miles)
Silver City, New Mexico (44 miles, 1.5 hours)
Deming, New Mexico (95 miles, 2 hours) 

Middle Fork Trailhead 

West Fork Trailhead 

To make this route a loop, there is an easy 2-mile road walk between the Middle Fork and West Fork trailheads. You can begin at either Middle Fork or West Fork Trailhead, and head your preferred direction, starting with trail or road. Shuttles with Gila Backcountry Services are also available if you fly into Grant County Airport 12 miles outside Silver City or need a ride from Silver City. 

Coming from any direction, Silver City is your last chance for real groceries before the hike. Immediately prior to entering the wilderness, you will pass through the small town of Gila Hot Springs, where the only real amenity is Doc Campbell’s Post, a popular stop for CDT hikers to load up on homemade ice cream. The store does have some light resupply options, but hours are limited. To start at the West Fork Trailhead, continue past Doc Campbell’s and turn left at the continuation of state Highway 15, following signs for Gila Cliff Dwelling National Monument. To start at the Middle Fork Trailhead, continue straight past the Gila Cliff Dwellings turn and the Gila Forest Service Visitor Center. The trailhead will be on your left. 

When to Hike the Gila River Middle Fork-West Fork Loop

This route is best hiked in late spring, early summer, or early fall

Although this hike generally falls into the spring/fall category for backpacking, it is at a higher elevation than most low desert hikes and can therefore be a bit colder in spring. This especially applies to the portion of the loop where you switchback up the canyon to high desert ponderosa pines where temperatures drop considerably. 

May/June and September/mid-October are ideal for warm daytime temps, cool nighttime lows, and avoiding summer crowding. This hike could be pushed further into the summer if you are prepared for daytime highs in the 90s. However, flooding is common in the Gila, so avoid late summer rains (July/August) when river crossings become dangerous and trails frequently wash out. Check here for the most recent trail conditions. 

Gila River Loop Middle Fork-West Fork Terrain 

While hiking along the Middle and West Forks of the Gila, the trail winds back and forth across the river, making for very frequent water crossings. Of the two forks, the Middle Fork contains the most water crossings, while the West Fork Trail is more direct and spends more time in the forest. In between getting your feet wet, the trail leads you through sand, brush, forest stands, rocky river beds, and lush vegetation (almost always including poison ivy). 

Logistics: Direction, Land Management, Water

Loop Direction:

Counterclockwise: Head this direction to arrive at the hot springs on your first day, get the majority of the river crossings out of the way when your feet are fresh, and have a more cruisy hike out
Clockwise: This is the direction to go for fewer early-hike river crossings, and to soak your feet in hot springs near the end of your trip

Land Management: The majority of the loop is in Gila Wilderness, part of Gila National Forest, where camping is free and open. Be sure to follow LNT principles and use already established sites. The first few miles of the West Fork Trail heading north from the trailhead are in Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument. Camping isn’t permitted in the national monument, so be sure to give yourself enough time to get beyond the boundary, or you can choose to stay at either Upper or Lower Scorpion Campgrounds near the West Fork Trailhead. 

Water: While walking along the Middle and West Forks, you will be crossing your water source every few minutes. When crossing from fork to fork, however, expect completely dry conditions and load up on water before you start the climb. 

Prior Spring on top of the plateau between the forks is an unreliable water source and was dry for us. Check here for updates, especially if you are extending your trip to a different area in the wilderness. 

Special Gear

Long Pants: I didn’t heed this warning and was punished for it. Even though I can ID poison ivy and did my best to avoid it, it still got on my legs. Trust me, it is everywhere. Wearing shorts isn’t worth the possibility of ruining your trip. 

Neoprene Socks (optional): I didn’t feel a need for these, but if you are prone to very cold feet or don’t like being wet, they could be valuable for water crossings.

Know Before You Go

Side Trips:

Hot Springs: Half a mile in from the Middle Fork Trailhead is the small Lightfeather Hot Springs. If starting early in the day, it might be too early to stop, and isn’t quite as established of a soaking area. Jordan Hot Springs 7 miles in is a popular day hike destination and much more worthy of a soak. Look out for an easy to miss side trail to the north that takes you up a hill to the secluded hot spring. Expect crowds, especially if traveling on a weekend or holiday. Nearby campsites are limited. FYI: public nudity is not permited in the national forest. Also beware of the brain-eating amoeba Naegleria Fowleri present in these hot springs and do not submerge your head underwater.  

Gila Cliff Dwellings: Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument is a worthwhile side trip at the beginning or end of your loop. You will pass by the small museum at the trailhead and a 1-mile loop trail guiding you through ancient cliff dwellings. They are open every day from 9:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. 

Doc Campbell’s Post: If you are able to stop by here during their limited business hours, the homemade ice cream is the perfect way to cool off after your trip. 

Add or Remove Miles: If you have the time or desire to extend your trip in the Gila, there are a multitude of other trail offshoots or loop extensions. Shorter loops are possible as well. For more trip ideas, I found this book to be helpful. Just be sure to check here for updated trail conditions and water information if adding miles. 

Carry Water When You’re Crossing Between Forks: There is no reliable water on the plateau between forks, so load up before the climb!

Signage isn’t Always Clear or Existent: Pay attention to your maps when you know you’re nearing a trail crossing. 

Make Sure Trails are Passable Floods and fires frequently damage the trail. Find updated conditions. 

Flora and Fauna: We encountered one rattlesnake in the middle of the trail that we had to give a wide berth. Less harmless wildlife included thousands of tadpoles ranging from minuscule to enormous. In May, wildflowers and poison ivy were abundant. Know how to properly identify poison ivy. 

Additional Resources

Triple Crown Hostel: Hiker hostel in Silver City, New Mexico. Great place to stay before or after your hike.

Gila Backcountry Services: Shuttles 

Backpacking in the Gila Wilderness: US Forest Service 

Gila Trails Info: Gila Trail resources 

Tess Mullaney is an Arizona native with roots in the high-desert mountains. She enjoys writing about nature and experiencing the life-changing effects that the outdoors can provide. Besides hiking, she is often gardening, reading, or spoiling her black fluffy cat Ezra. You can find her Instagram here, or read more on her blog. 

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Region: Southwest (Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona)
Distance: 44-47 miles (1-4 days) 

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Long climbs and descents
• Extended waterless stretches
• Extreme exposure on climbs 

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Permit required to camp in Grand Canyon National Park
• Drastically changing temperatures and need for strategic water planning
• Straightforward navigation and well-signed intersections

Season: Spring, Fall 
Elevation (Average): ~5,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 11,000 feet

Hiking the Grand Canyon Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim

Hiking Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim is a bucket list item for many backpackers. The effort requires training, endurance, and a series of logistics to pull off a successful out-and-back crossing. With this being in a national park, there are a number of things that can be used to backpackers’ advantages. The trail passes twice by Phantom Ranch, where a few resupply options can be bought as well as postcards to mail from the bottom of the Grand Canyon (packed out by mule).

The trail begins at either the South Kaibab Trail or the Bright Angel Trail. From either location on the South Rim, it is a long drop to the canyon floor. If you opt for the Bright Angel Trail there is usually water turned on at Indian Gardens (check before you go). The trail drops nearly a vertical mile down to the Colorado River. After crossing the river on bridges, the trails converge and pass by Bright Angel Campground and Phantom Ranch. Check the hours, but this small store sells coffee and snacks, while also offering lodging if you reserve it in advance.

After Bright Angel Campground and Phantom Ranch, the next spot to camp is Cottonwood Campground 7.6 miles later. The stretch has access to Bright Angel Creek but is dry otherwise. If the creek is used as a water source then the water will need to be treated. There is one water source 5 miles from the top of the North Rim just after Manzanita Creek Footbridge. There is a faucet that is often turned on next to the pump house.

From the pump house it is a 10-mile (5 miles to the rim and 5 miles down) out-and-back that can be dry depending on if the water is turned on at the North Rim. There is a campground at the North Rim but it is often closed for the season during the peak times for Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim crossings. The North Rim is also notoriously colder than the South Rim, so descending back into the canyon may be the best bet.

The route back across the canyon is same as the initial crossing with the exception of every hill being inverse. The camp locations and water sources will be the same, and Phantom Ranch will once again be a good spot to grab a snack or take a break. After Bright Angel Campground the long climb up to the South Rim begins. It is the last climb of the route and if the South Kaibab Trail is taken then it will be dry for the vertical mile to the top.

How to get to the Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim Hike

The best way to get to the Grand Canyon is to drive from Flagstaff. Whether this means flying into Flagstaff and renting a car or flying into the large airport in Phoenix and driving from there, the Grand Canyon is best reached by car. There are a number of shuttle services from Flagstaff to the canyon if that works better. The hike is started on the South Rim by nearly every hiker. This is because the vast majority of amenities in Grand Canyon National Park are located at the South Rim.

There are two options for starting points: South Kaibab Trail or Bright Angel Trail. There is parking at the Bright Angel Trailhead but there is none at the South Kaibab Trail. If you are taking the South Kaibab Trail it is best to park at the visitors center and take a shuttle right to the trailhead. This is also the best way to get back to Grand Canyon Village after the hike.

Nearest City: Flagstaff, Arizona (80 miles) 

When to Hike the Grand Canyon

The best time to hike the Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim in the Grand Canyon is in the fall or the spring. If there is a pocket of good weather in the winter, the trail can also be done then, but the North Rim is known to accumulate snow and ice and hold onto it until the spring. Temperatures in the Grand Canyon can climb to triple digits and make it a very hot endeavor in the summer, so we don’t recommend that. The waterless stretches can last quite a way, and if you go too early in the year the water faucet may not be turned on at the North Rim.

Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim Terrain 

The terrain in the Grand Canyon varies wildly and is unforgiving. The South Kaibab Trail is dry from the trailhead on the south rim all the way to the Colorado River. This can make it a very hot climb and is where the majority of rescues happen in the national park. The wind is often present and the sun beats down directly overhead. This climb is the crux of the entire route, and is the final climb of the trek.

Other than the South Kaibab climb, the route oscillates in small gains and losses through box canyons on the North side of Phantom Ranch before beginning to truly gain elevation near Ribbon Falls. The short side trail is worth the view of the beautiful waterfall. After the natural feature, the trail climbs sharply all the way up to the North Rim. A little over 5 miles from the rim is a reliable pump house water source just after the Manzanita Creek Footbridge. If the water is off on the North Rim, then this is the only source for the 10-mile out-and-back to the rim.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water

Camping and Permits: Backcountry permits are required for each night you camp within the Grand Canyon National Park boundaries. Outside of holiday weekends and with some flexibility, permits can be obtained without too much hassle.

Water: Water is one of the most difficult things to manage on the Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim. The weather at the bottom of the Grand Canyon is usually 20 degrees warmer than the rim, so planning water capacity for the hotter portion of the hike is essential. Depending on the season, different water sources are turned on, so it is best to consult NPS information at the time of your hike.

Know Before You Go

Weather: The 20-degree difference between the bottom of the canyon and the top of the canyon can come as a shock. Sometimes there is snow on the rim and threats of dehydration at the bottom. The canyon can also be very windy, so carrying a windbreaker will make the crossing more comfortable.

Bright Angel Vs. Kaibab: There are two options for getting down to the river and connecting to the North Kaibab Trail. The South Kaibab Trail is shorter but also steeper with more elevation change, while the Bright Angel Trail is a little longer, more gradual, and has less elevation gain. Many people take one trail down and a different one up to see something new.

Shuttle: Grand Canyon National Park offers a shuttle service to and from the trailheads on the rim. It starts early in the morning, so this is a good way to get your hike started. There is no parking at the South Kaibab Trail, so those hikers must park at the visitor center and take the shuttle to the trailhead.

Mules: Grand Canyon National Park has mules that take supplies and mail up and down from Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the canyon. If you are approached by a mule train, step off the trail and let them pass.

Additional Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim Resources

Grand Canyon Shuttle Schedule

Grand Canyon Backcountry Permits

Phantom Ranch

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The Black Canyon Trail is a 76-mile National Recreation Trail located between Phoenix and Flagstaff, Arizona. The trail is popular with mountain bikers and there are plans to extend the trail even farther. It is a great trail to hike in the shoulder seasons.  

Region: Southwest (Prescott National Forest, Arizona)
Length: 76 Miles* (4-6 days)
*Opportunity to extend trail a bit north and south. They are working to extend the trail.

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• Long distances between water sources 
• Very exposed with little shade
• Rocky trail

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

• No permit required 
• Point-to-point trail
• Possible to resupply midway 

Season: Late Fall, Winter, Early Spring

Elevation (Average): ~ 3,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: ~ 5,500 feet

Hiking the Black Canyon Trail

The Black Canyon Trail is most well known as a mountain biking trail, but the route is perfect for hiking as well. It is almost perfectly constructed for an off-season point-to-point backpacking trip. There are just enough water sources along the way to never have to stretch the limits of a hiker’s carrying capacity, and there is the opportunity to resupply almost exactly halfway through the trail. As if meant to be, the town of Black Canyon City is located midway and provides easy access to a grocery store, Family Dollar, restaurant, and cafe.

The beauty of the Black Canyon Trail is the stark transition in the landscape as elevation is lost. Starting near the high point the trail is anything but all downhill. But with the general trend being down, the terrain changes from windswept desert to saguaro cacti-filled hills. It is a rocky and dusty trail, but nothing more than anything else comparable in the desert.

From the beginning to the end the trail parallels Interstate 17 but offers quite a different view than a simple drive from Flagstaff to Phoenix. Rattlesnakes, scorpions, tarantulas, deer, and a number of other desert creatures live in the hills of the Black Canyon Trail and easily prove that the dry desert is anything but barren. Rabbits dart in and out of cacti and cholla periodically jump up and stick in shoes and legs.

The Black Canyon Trail was originally designed for mountain bikers, and with their sport well represented, it remains a popular single track bike-packing route. But the same things that make it appealing to bikes also appear to backpackers. As with any multi-use trail, be sure to pay attention and share the trail with others. There are a number of 4×4 roads that intersect the route and these places are well used by ATVs and dirt bikes. While these represent only a small portion of the trail, it is worth noting before setting up camp at a busy intersection.

In April I set out a small water cache in one of the more dry sections of the trail to make sure that I would not be without water. It turns out there was still a small puddle in a nearby section of the Agua Fria River, but if you are hiking the trail early in the fall or late in the spring, a water cache may be beneficial. The other note is that on top of Table Mesa there are always a number of people shooting. This is a popular spot for target shooting, so don’t be shocked when it feels as though you are entering a war zone.

How to Get to the Black Canyon Trail

Northern Terminus: Near Orme Road
Closest City: Phoenix (86 miles)

Southern Terminus: Carefree Highway (Highway 74)
Closest City:  Phoenix (35 miles)

When to Hike the Black Canyon Trail

The Black Canyon Trail is best hiked in the late fall, winter, or early spring. The BCT is on the edge of the Sonoran Desert and water is scarce. Hiking it in the winter ensures that the temperatures are more manageable and the water sources are more likely to be flowing. In mid-April, we found puddles as water sources, but much later in the year and these puddles would have been dried up.

Black Canyon Trail Terrain 

The Black Canyon Trail is dry and on the edge of the Sonoran Desert. There are a number of desert wildlife including tarantulas, scorpions, rattlesnakes, and rabbits. While sometimes thought of as scary, all these animals have a fear of humans and are unlikely to be aggressive. Give them their space and carry on. On the trail note the changing cacti, from prickly pear to saguaro; as the elevation decreases on the trail the entire landscape experiences subtle changes. Around the banks of the often dry Agua Fria ample brush and vegetation can be seen. The desert landscape is entirely dependent on its surroundings, water, and elevation. It is a fragile landscape. Choose to camp carefully and allow the precious vegetation to continue to thrive.

Logistics: Camping and Permits, Water

Camping and Permits: There are no permits required for the Black Canyon Trail and dispersed camping is legal within the national forest. Be sure to follow Leave No Trace principles.

Water: Water is one of the most difficult things to plan on this trail. In the general hiking season for this trail (late Fall to early Spring) the Agua Fria River is likely to have pools. Also, about midway is Black Canyon City, where a resupply and a refill on water can be found. Plan water carefully, and it may be best to put out a couple of water caches.

Food: A resupply can be done in Black Canyon City to break up the trail. There is a restaurant, a gas station, Family Dollar, and a small market.

Know Before You Go

Resupply: The resupply location of Black Canyon City is right next to the route. In fact, the trail passes through city limits. Simply by walking a few blocks you can easily resupply, refill bottles, and eat at Beni’s Pizza. At under 80 miles the route can easily be done with a resupply, but the opportunity does exist.

Transportation: The route is a point-to-point hike, which means transportation can be tricky. The current northern terminus is a little hard to get to, especially with a hitch, so it may be worthwhile to find an easier access road starting from Highway 169.

Water Capacity: I carried a 3.5-liter capacity when I hiked the trail in mid-April, but depending on your comfort, hydration needs, and whether you are dry camping, the capacity to carry water should be carefully considered.

Sun Protection: There is very little shade on the majority of the trail, so wearing full sleeves and a sun hat is our recommendation. Sunscreen is also a necessity with the direct exposure under the desert sun.

Black Canyon Trail Additional Resources

Black Canyon Trail Coalition

Black Canyon City

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The Lone Star Hiking Trail is a 96-mile point-to-point hiking trail located in East Texas just north of Houston. It is marked with white blazes and can be hiked in 4-10 days.

Region: Southwest (Sam Houston National Forest, Texas)
Distance: 96.4 miles, 4-10 days

Physical Difficulty: Easy 

• Flat and well-maintained the vast majority of the trail 
• Some muddy sections but limited overall
• Some scrambled-up V-shaped dips across dry streambeds along the trail

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Camping in designated campsites only during hunting season
• Water is scarce and low-quality in times of drought
• Proper preparation means relatively easy resupply / access to water caches at easily accessible trailheads

Season: Late Fall, Winter, Early Spring

Average Elevation: ~250 feet
Total Elevation Gain: ~1,000 feet

Hiking the Lone Star Hiking Trail

Hiking has always been a meditative experience for me, and I knew the routine of figuring out water for the day, what snacks I wanted to eat, setting up camp, rinsing and repeating would help me process events I had recently gone through. I drove 4.5 hours from my home in Austin, Texas, to Sam Houston National Forest, passing through the cities of Katy and Houston along the way (ironic because my name is Katie Houston). 

This really is the perfect thru-hike for beginners, people who know they like hiking but don’t know if they love long-distance hiking, someone preparing for a longer thru-hike, doing a gear shakedown, or just looking to have a fun week on trail and crush some miles in the process. I was able to giggle as I passed the sign announcing the “LSHT High Point” of just over 400 feet. Though there were a few times I had to scramble down and back up V-shaped ditches carved by streams, the trail was technically the easiest hiking I’ve ever done.

I’ll cover the logistics later, but there is definitely a special place in my heart for a trail of this length because I felt accomplished at the end but also carried all my food for the trip and didn’t have to manage any complex hitches or resupplies. I also wasn’t in a town every day, didn’t have any excessively long road walks, and felt remote enough to get the mental benefits of being alone in nature.

You can hike the trail east or westbound, it doesn’t make much of a difference either way. I chose eastbound because it was easier for me to drop off my car at the eastern terminus than the western … and that’s about it! I met a couple of thru-hikers along the way; about half were hiking westbound and half were headed east. The first few segments I hiked had recently been through a prescribed burn and the feeling of hiking through a smoke-filled (yet safe) forest was incredible. From there, the terrain jumped from swampy, jungle-like forests to sparse, tall pine trees reaching toward the sky and creating a dense canopy that left me protected from the sun. There were large lakes, meandering streams I followed for miles, and dense vegetation that was well-maintained away from the trail but allowed for about 1,000 spiders to have a rude awakening when I bumbled my way through their intricate webs strewn across the path.

How to Get to the Lone Star Hiking Trail

Nearest City: Conroe, Texas (Approximately 20 miles, centrally located)
Western Terminus: LSHT Trailhead 1
Eastern Terminus: LSHT Trailhead 15 

Conveniently for hikers, the trailheads for the LSHT are named just that: Lone Star Hiking Trail – Trailhead #(1-15). Wouldn’t it be nice if all trail logistics were this simple? They all technically have specific names, but Google Maps recognizes them as LSHT Trailheads.

I dropped off my car at the eastern terminus and took a 40-minute shuttle to the western one. There are plenty of shuttles and local cab companies to choose from, and this is a pretty painless part of the journey.  All of the thru-hikers who I encountered took a similar approach to mine: car at one end, shuttle to begin. Traveling eastbound or westbound doesn’t really make much of a difference. If you do choose to leave your car, pack yourself a grab bag of all your favorite energy drinks, a liter or two of fresh water, and a change of clothes (including comfy shoes!). The next people you interact with and your future self will thank you!

If you do fly in, there are limited options. A one-way car rental will probably be your best bet or the Greyhound bus service runs from Houston to Conroe and you could get a shuttle from Conroe to either terminus of the trail if you wanted to.

When to Hike The Lone Star Hiking Trail

The most months to hike the Lone Star Hiking Trail are January through April. The late spring/summer months in Texas can be brutal, with temperatures routinely reaching over 90 degrees. Biting bugs can also make for an uncomfortable trip this time of year. The only reason I don’t recommend October-December is because deer-hunting spans the entirety of these months and that presents challenges I will discuss later on. This trail isn’t very popular as a thru-hike, so I wouldn’t worry about a bubble of hikers to compete with for good campsites on this trail. I hiked the weekend of spring break and only spent one night camping with another person and saw maybe three or four other thru-hikers along my journey.

The Lone Star Hiking Trail Terrain 

As a born and raised East-Coaster, I had some stereotypes in my head about what kind of hiking trails I would encounter in Texas. In my head, I was surrounded by tall, wispy grasses, flat and never-ending plains filled with herds of cows, and a distinct lack of forest and tall trees. I could not have been more wrong. The trail was flat, yes, but offers a look at some incredibly diverse forests in just under 100 miles. From skinny, tall pine trees that reach toward the sky to swampy, jungle-like heat traps, every segment was like entering a completely new ecosystem with its own distinct foliage. It was almost jarring at times. But it kept my head on a swivel to appreciate the beauty of the trail. All in all, this trail is flat, there is plenty of tree cover for shade, and the insects were are unmanageably bad. 

The Lone Star Hiking Trail Resupply Strategy 

As mentioned, there are 15 trailheads along the LSHT. A few hikers I met had organized with shuttle drivers or partners to resupply them at one of these easily accessible stops. Others just cached water with their name on it in the bushes at a few choice trailheads before they set off, just to ensure it wouldn’t be a concern no matter the conditions. 

There are 2 seasonal camp stores that are located walking distance from (but not directly on) the trail. The first is Huntsville State Park, located 1 mile from eastbound mile-marker 35.6. The second is Double Lake Recreation Area, located at eastbound mile-marker 75. There is also a large gas station/convenience store at eastbound mile-marker 90.9 located 1 mile south of LSHT Trailhead #14 parking lot.

Hikers can mail themselves a resupply package to be picked up at the Huntsville post office, but that includes either coordinating a shuttle, trekking an extra 6 miles north of LSHT Trailhead #7 parking lot (eastbound mile-marker 35), or hitching a ride. 

Otherwise, your easiest option (and what I chose to do for my thru-hike) would be to carry everything with you from the beginning. I was planning on hiking the trail in four or five days so I packed five days just to be safe. Carrying the extra weight was worth the easier logistics and I’d choose this method again in a heartbeat. 

Logistics: Hunting, Camping, Water, and Special Gear 

Hunting and Camping: Though no special permits are needed to hike the Lone Star Hiking Trail, if you hit the trail during deer-hunting season, be prepared to camp only in designated hunting campsites and nowhere else. Generally, the deer-hunting season begins in late September and runs through early January. Hikers should wear brightly colored clothes (fluorescent orange preferred), keep dogs under control and leashed, and camp in the sites designated by USFS during deer season. There’s no shortage of designated sites along the trail and they are all clearly marked in the online and paper guides mentioned in the reference section below. There is also one 2-mile section of trail that passes through the Big Creek Scenic Area (eastbound mile-marker 78.6 – 80.6), where camping is not allowed.

Water: Water scarcity and quality can definitely be an issue on this trail. Thankfully I happened to head out immediately after a long rainstorm hung out over the region, so I didn’t have much issue finding frequent sources. What I did have a problem with was my own comfortability with these sources. While I saw other hikers gently pushing away yellow-films of pollen to collect brown, stagnant pond water, I just couldn’t bring myself to do it and held out for once-a-day fill-ups at flowing sources. Sometimes those still didn’t smell great or were definitely not clear, but no bugs flying around the surface and a flowing source was about as good as it got on this trail. I consumed about 3 liters per day between cooking and drinking and never ran out between sources. The most I carried at one time was 4 liters but I was just starting out and feeling nervous about the conditions on trail.

Both the print guide and online PDF guide (links in reference section) that I used on trail assessed sources based on a D.R.O.P.S. system from 1-5 and included notes about whether it was a seasonal source, if you shouldn’t drink from it because of unseen agricultural runoff, or any other concerns. I found these evaluations to be pretty accurate and though water in general is a concern on this trail, while I was on the thru-hike I never actually had any of those fears manifest in any way for me.

Special Gear: There are definitely biting bugs in Texas no matter the time of year. I didn’t encounter many in March, but that’s likely because I used permethrin on every piece of clothing I took with me and on my tent. I definitely recommend using bug spray and bringing sunscreen for road walks that have lots of exposure to the big ol’ Texas sun. 

Know Before You Go

Hunting Season: Deer hunting season runs from late September to early January, but that doesn’t mean it’s the only time of year Texans head out into the woods to hunt. Squirrel hunting is in March, turkey hunting is typically in April, and hog hunting is year-round during daylight hours. Check Texas Parks and Wildlife for specific dates on hunting season and make sure if you’re embarking on your journey during one of those months to wear fluorescent orange, keep dogs close and under control with a leash.

Falling Tree Branches: Large branches that are trapped in the canopy present a clear and present danger to campers on the Lone Star Hiking Trail. Be sure to always check your surroundings before pitching your tent for the night and do so with the expectation that a strong wind storm will blow through (because in the Texas backcountry, it just might). 

Controlled Burns: As I mentioned, I got lucky with my planning and didn’t get stopped in my tracks to wait for a prescribed burn to take place before I could pass through, but I got pretty darn close. I loved the eerie feeling of trekking through forests that had been burned just a day before I was there, but it might not be for everybody. The smoke was dense in some sections (never more than a mile or two at a time) and thankfully I had my N-95 mask to put on. But if hiking in smoke isn’t your thing or you have a preexisting condition that would make a thru-hike that much harder for you, I’d give the forest a little while to cool off (literally). You can check the schedule of prescribed burns by contacting Sam Houston National Forest. 

Road Walks: If you’ve been bit by the thru-hiking bug, it’s inevitable that you’ve done your fair share of road walks and the Lone Start Hiking Trail is no exception. There are a couple of sections of road walks ranging from 0.3 miles to just over 5 miles at a time, but total mileage on the road doesn’t account for more than 15 miles total at most (including gravel forest road sections). 

Unleashed Dogs: My biggest fear on trail was related to my online guide that included the blurb WATCH FOR DOGS in bold red letters next to one or two of the road walks. I had three instances on the Lone Star Hiking Trail when unleashed dogs would see me walking on the road past their house, fly through their open gate barking hysterically, and then remain close to me barking until I made it farther down the road. (They never hurt me but they certainly weren’t happy to see me and definitely terrified me and other hikers I talked to.) I don’t have a great answer on how to deal with this except that I carried a sound grenade and pepper spray as a last resort. I also got some big sticks to carry when I was warned about dogs so I could at least keep them at a distance. After my hike, I went on the LSHT Facebook Group, and dogs scaring hikers was an unfortunately common theme.

Lone Star Hiking Trail Resources

• The Lone Star Hiking Trail Facebook Group is a great place to get answers to questions you may still have about your trip and up-to-date information about conditions on trail (and you may find a trail angel or two poking around as well). 
• Charlotte Tomkavitz lives a 30-minute drive to any trailhead on the LSHT and offers shuttles to hikers. I used her services for the bridge reroute (discussed below) and to shuttle me from the eastern terminus where I left my car to the western terminus.
• Texas native and experienced long-distance hiker Karen Borski’s The Lone Star Hiking Trail: The Official Guide to the Longest Wilderness Footpath in Texas 2nd edition is a printed guidebook with everything you need to know about logistics, mileage charts, section maps, designated campsites, and more. However, it does not include the bridge reroute discussed below. Otherwise, this is a wonderful resource that I used to prepare for my trip before I set off.
• Presented by Don Brewington and The Lone Star Hiking Club, The Thru-Hiker’s Guide is what I used as a resource while I was actively hiking the trail. I took screenshots of the free guide online and made sure I had enough battery to refer to it when I needed to. That way, I didn’t have to worry about service or the weight of a book on my back.
• There is currently a bridge over the East Fork of the San Jacinto River that is out. There is a reroute and all information is available here through The Lone Star Hiking Trail Club.
• Want to get to know the trail before you embark on your thru-hike? The Lone Star Hiking Trail Club invites you to join them on their group or trail-maintenance hikes on the 2nd and 4th Saturday of every month. 
  

Katie “Oats” Houston (she/her) got bit by the thru-hiking bug in 2019 when she completed a thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail. But the trail gave her more than just 2,200 miles under her boots… it also gave her a family. She rescued her husky (appropriately named Thru) on trail in Virginia and met her partner two-thirds of the way through their journeys. They upgraded from tent to camper to school bus and now finally have settled on a ranch outside Austin, Texas. She has since hiked the Colorado Trail (2020) and Lone Star Hiking Trail (2021) and has a goal of hitting 10,000 miles by the time she turns 25.

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Region: Southwest (Zion National Park)
Length: 14 miles (2 days)

Physical Difficulty:  Moderate 

• Route gains roughly 2,500 feet over 14 miles (round trip)
• Many signed campsites near Kolob Arch
• Trail quickly gets muddy in inclement weather

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

• Out-and-back hike
• Access to reliable water
• Very well-marked trail

Season: Fall, Spring
Elevation (Average): 5,500 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 2,506 feet (round trip)

Hiking to Kolob Arch in Zion National Park

Kolob Arch is located in the Kolob Canyons section of Zion National Park. Being a more difficult location to reach than the narrows or Angels Landing, Kolob Arch is the perfect spot for an overnight backpacking trip in the third-most visited national park.

Kolob Arch is the second-longest arch in the world, only trailing after Landscape Arch in Arches National Park. But this Zion arch takes a little more effort to visit. There are technically two ways to reach the arch (one from either side) but this write-up begins at Lee Pass, off Kolob Canyons Road.

The trail is nestled between the towering peaks and smaller buttes, causing it to hold mud and puddles for a long time. The trail leaves the trailhead parking lot and immediately swings around Gregory Butte and follows the La Verkin Creek drainage. Posts with numbered campsites begin appearing after only a few miles.

There are 13 different campsites scattered along the creek. Being a national park, a backcountry reservation is required to stay at each spot. The sign marking the turn toward Kolob Arch is just over 6 miles from Lee Pass. From the sign it is a mile back to the view of the arch towering above. The trail to Kolob Arch is much rougher than the route through the drainage. Downed trees, rock hopping across small creeks, and small overgrown sections can be expected.

At the end of the mile-long hike up the canyon, look up to the left and witness the second-longest arch in the world! This route can be extended far beyond 14 miles by simply reserving a campsite farther back. The larger-numbered campsites are farther from Lee Pass.

The Virgin River and tributaries often have blooms of toxic cyanobacteria. When I hiked this route the ranger warned me to only collect water from natural springs and not La Verkin Creek. It is best to research the current conditions and status of the water in Zion National Park, as with any desert backpacking trip.

How to Get to Kolob Arch

Closest Major City: Las Vegas, Nevada (155 miles)
Closest Town: Escalante, Utah (55 miles)
Lee Pass

Getting to the Lee Pass Trailhead is simple. A signed exit off Interstate 15 will travel past a small visitors center with a park entrance checkpoint. From the Kolob Canyons Visitor Center it is a 4-mile drive up Kolob Canyons Road to a signed trailhead parking area.

Kolob Arch Season / Direction

Season: In good weather, the route is perfect from the late fall to the early spring. But bad weather can easily saturate the route, and in a cold snap, snow can stick around at elevation. Occasionally, Kolob Canyons Road is closed because of snow and ice too. It is possible to hike in the summer although it could get quite hot.

Direction: This is a simple out-and-back hike with well-signed campsites, turns, and forks.

Logistics: Permits / Camping, Navigation, Water

Permits / Camping: Permits are needed for backcountry camping in Zion National Park. They can be obtained online or in-person the day before starting your hike. You will need to camp at your reserved campsite.

Navigation: Navigation and finding your assigned campsite are simple due to the ample signage in the national park.

Water: Check the current conditions and water quality associated with cyanobacteria.

Know Before You Go

Water: Although Zion National Park has a number of streams that flow through it, the park is in the desert and water quantity and quality fluctuate greatly.

Pack It Out: Pack everything out, including human waste.

Camping: Camping is permitted only at the campsite that matches the backcountry reservation made through the park service.

Resources

Zion National Park Backcountry Permits

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Region: Southwest (Glen Canyon National Recreation Area)
Length: 20 miles (2 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate 

• Route gains roughly 1,250 feet over 10 miles
• Expansive view of the miles ahead
• Hard to find, remote campsites

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Out-and-back hike
• No access to reliable water
• Faint trail marked with occasional cairns

Season: Fall, Spring
Elevation (Average): 5,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 1,250 feet

Hiking to Reflection Canyon

Reflection Canyon is a lesser-known location within Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. It is less visited and rarely mentioned simply because of the long drive to get to the trailhead. The canyon is a picturesque swirl resembling the shape of Horseshoe Bend but with a more striking and closer view of the Colorado River winding into Lake Powell.

Southern Utah is a perfect area for shoulder-season hiking. Snow periodically covers the high country, with mild weather at the lower elevations. It is the high desert, so inclement weather is a possibility, but other than a stiff breeze, it’s often perfect hiking weather.

The hike begins on the side of Hole-In-The-Rock Road, but only after a 50-mile drive down rugged dirt and gravel. From the small parking area, a faint trail winds through the landscape, passing under massive cliffs and walls. The dirt soon disappears and is replaced by sporadic cairns as the route transitions to rock.

After the initial 5 miles of faint trail beneath the towering rock features, it becomes a choose-your-own-path hike. Balanced rocks, small shelves, and little ravines cover the area leading up to the Colorado River running through the canyon.

There is no reliable water on the Reflection Canyon hike, though in mid-February I saw some small holes holding clear water after a recent rain. The expectation should be that this hike does not have a water source.

The nearer you get to the canyon, the more difficult it is to follow the slickrock. Giant holes with sand and shrubbery are randomly scattered throughout the final mile. On the often windy nights, these tiny valleys provide a good reprieve and a place to camp. At the edge of Reflection Canyon the rock drops off sharply, falling hundreds of feet to the water. The exposure and immediate drop-off can be staggering, but as long as you’re careful you can find many different viewpoints and overlooks.

How to Get to Reflection Canyon

Closest Major City: Salt Lake City, Utah (300 miles)
Closest Town: Escalante, Utah (55 miles)
Hole-In-The-Rock Road
Reflection Canyon Trailhead

Getting to the Reflection Canyon trailhead means driving 50 miles down a rugged dirt and gravel road outside Escalante. 4WD is not necessary in good weather, but even a little rain can make the road impassable. The best way to find the location is to drive to Escalante and then drive 5 miles southeast on Highway 12 to Hole-In-The-Rock Road. From here, it is a 50-mile scenic drive to the trailhead, which is unmarked and has simply enough space to park on either side of the road.

Reflection Canyon Season / Direction

Season: In good weather, the route is perfect from the late fall to the early spring. But bad weather can easily leave hikers trapped at their cars with no way to get back to Highway 12. Because of hot summers and the likelihood of no water, the hike is best done in the cooler shoulder season.

Direction: This is a simple out-and-back hike with a few different braided trails and variations. The faintness of the trail, with half on slickrock, offers hikers the ability to explore all aspects of the canyon with some light scrambling en route to the canyon.

Logistics: Permits / Camping, Navigation, Water

Permits / Camping: Permits are free but required and available at the Escalante Interagency Visitor Center for both Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument and Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. Camping is allowed anywhere along the route, just be sure to follow all LNT guidelines.

Navigation: Make sure your phone or GPS unit has the route loaded or you are familiar with the paper maps that you are taking. The first 5 miles are pretty easy, but after transitioning to slickrock, Reflection Canyon can be a bit difficult to find.

Water: There is no reliable water on the route. There is an unreliable spring a couple of miles from the trailhead and the possibility of potholes holding rainwater, but these sources should not be relied upon.

Know Before You Go

Temperature: The difference between the daytime highs and the overnight lows can be staggering. The route is exposed and in the sun for its entirety, making dehydration possible during the day and hypothermia possible at night. The location and trailhead are remote, so having enough food and water to cover not only the hike but also the drive is important.

Pack It Out: Pack everything out, including human waste

Water Planning: With no reliable water, hikers should carry enough for their entire hike.

Camping: Camping is permitted anywhere in the area, although we found the nights especially windy. Camping farther back from the canyon provides more secluded spots.

Cell Service: There was a bit of cell service (Verizon) sporadically throughout the route.

Flash Floods: Flooding, road washouts, and impassable conditions are likely within this entire area. Check the weather before venturing down the remote road.

Resources

Escalante Interagency Visitor Center

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The Death Hollow Loop is a 23-mile route in Southern Utah through canyons and on slickrock that can be completed in two days.

Region: Southwest (Escalante National Monument, Utah)
Length: 23 miles (2-3 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult 

• Steep slickrock climbs in first section
• Challenging tread through water and sand 
• Tricky narrows section in the canyon

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate 

• Loop trail, no advance permit required
• No water for first half
• Some route finding necessary

Season: Spring / Fall
Elevation (Average): ~6,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 2,787 feet

Hiking the Death Hollow Loop

This loop hike combines three different trails: the Boulder Mail Trail, the Death Hollow Trail, and the Escalante River Trail. It took me completely by surprise. I was looking for a loop hike we could knock out in two days, and these three trails connected in a solid 23 miles with the promise of some incredible desert and canyon scenery. What I got was so much more—miles of slickrock followed by nine miles through an incredible canyon, towering sandstone walls, and walking through water. This is a tough hike thanks to the exposure, hiking through water and sand, plus a tricky narrows section to navigate, but certainly worth the effort. This should go without saying, but there is no resupply necessary.

Death Hollow is the highlight of this hike, and the Narrows are particularly spectacular. Just when you’re really tired of trudging through sand and on exposed expanses of white rock, the canyon walls loom ahead and you’ll drop 1,000 feet into the cool canyon to hike in and out of water for the next nine miles. Look for the trail jumping in and out of the water, or stay hiking in the water for as long as you like to avoid the poison ivy.

About halfway through the Escalante River section, look for a large natural amphitheater on the right with ancient petroglyphs.

Getting to the Death Hollow Loop

Closest Major City: Salt Lake City, Utah (300 miles)

This is a loop trail from the Escalante Town Trailhead (Boulder Mail Trail), a popular trailhead right outside the tiny town of Escalante, Utah. There are actually two trailheads known by similar names—don’t make the mistake of driving 10 miles out of town to the Escalante River Trailhead. The one you want is right outside town. Drive up past the graveyard on the east side of Escalante, turn north at the cemetery. Stay right on the road instead of turning into the cemetery. Take the first left in (about .4 miles) and follow the gravel road .6 miles to the trailhead. There is a register at the trailhead and you’ll hike down the road to start.

When to Hike the Death Hollow Loop

Spring and fall. In earlier spring you’ll want to watch out for higher water in the canyon, but April / May and October would be perfect. We actually hiked this during an unseasonably cool few days in early July, but it was still in the upper 80s on the slickrock section.

Death Hollow Loop Terrain

The terrain on the Death Hollow Loop is a blend of high desert, slickrock, ankle-deep sand, and shallow water through the canyon. It truly is a taste of everything Southern Utah has to offer. The steepest and most sustained climbing take place on the slickrock in the beginning, after which the trail levels out through the canyon, with only a few shorter climbs to the end. Be aware of heat, and the fact that until you’re literally hiking through water, there isn’t any water on the trail.

Logistics: Camping, Permits, Water

Camping: Free and not regulated, just remember to follow all LNT principles to ensure it stays this way. We camped at a truly incredible sandy overlook in the canyon, about 13 miles into the hike.

Permits and Land Management: This trail hits Escalante National Monument as well as the Glen Canyon Wilderness. Both of these land management types have fewer regulations than national parks. You don’t need to apply for a backcountry permit ahead of time, and you can camp anywhere. If the Escalante Interagency Visitor Center is open, you’ll need to stop in and get a free walk-up permit. Their offices were closed when we were there, so we grabbed a permit from the box at the trailhead and filled it out, then marked when we returned.

Water: This trail is a weird one. You’re in as dry an environment as possible for the first eight miles, then once you drop into the canyon, you’re literally walking through water. Bring three liters for the first eight miles, then just treat water as you go in the canyon. Since we did this trail in the summer, the Escalante River section was pretty dry. Make sure to fill up once you reach the junction of Death Hollow and the Escalante River Trail.

Know Before You Go

Carry. Enough. Water. There is no water for the first third of the trail, and a hell of a lot of exposure on the long sections of slickrock.

Water Hiking: You’re going to be walking through miles of water in the canyon. If you wear Chacos or something similar, make sure your feet are ready for it—Chaco blisters are no fun. We kept our trail runners on and it was much easier.

POISON IVY! Much of the Death Hollow section is overgrown, and much of the overgrowth is poison ivy. You can’t avoid it, but know what it looks like and consider pants for this section. I was Boil Girl for the next ten days after hiking it.

Route Finding: Keep an eye out for cairns on the slickrock section. You’ll be doing some route finding, but there’s always a cairn in sight as long as you pay attention.

Heat: The first section can be exposed and hot. I would recommend adding an electrolyte tab to your water bottle for at least the first section.

Resources

Box-Death Hollow Wilderness

Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument

NPS Escalante Website

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