Region: Northeast (Pachaug State Forest, Connecticut)

Length: ~31 miles (3 days)

Physical Difficulty: Easy

• The elevation gain is 2,848 feet, and two sections account for the bulk of the elevation gain: Mount Misery (441 feet) and about 2 miles of steep up and down scrambling through rocky ravines north of Beach Pond.
• Mostly soft dirt trails and forest roads. Some short, paved road walks.
• Water crossings can be tricky after heavy rain, but bridges, some in poor condition, span the deepest crossings. I had to take off my shoes and pants to wade across one deep crossing, but I suspect the deep water was because of torrential rains in the days before my hike.

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

• Loop trail done in three days, so resupply not needed. Only two sites where camping is allowed: Dawley Pond and Dry Reservoir shelters. Permits are required.
• Plentiful water. Late-winter rainstorms before my hike left trails covered in water.
• Some forest roads leading to trailheads are closed for the winter so it’s a good idea to call Pachaug State Forest headquarters to find where you can park in the off-season.

Season: Year-round

Net Elevation Gain: 2,848 feet

Note: We are having difficulties uploading a GPX file to the website, and will update the trip report when we are able to import the GPX.

Hiking the Pachaug State Forest Loop

The ~31-mile loop that I hiked combined parts of the Pachaug and Nehantic Trails in Pachaug State Forest, Connecticut’s largest state forest at 26,477 acres.

Horses are permitted on sections of the trail, and I saw two men riding horses and a fair amount of horse poop on trails. The trails also cross sanctioned dirt bike tracks.

Trailhead parking (shown on this interactive trails map) is scattered throughout the forest, but if you’re planning the off-season loop that I did I recommend parking on Fish Road, which has year-round access. The hike from Fish Road to the Dawley Pond Lean-to is ~14 miles, ~11 miles to Dry Reservoir Lean-to, and ~6 miles to Fish Road.

I parked at Fish Road and hiked south for 2 miles on the Nehantic Trail through mountain laurel stands before reaching Green Fall Pond. Water covered low-lying trail sections, a harbinger of wet trails to come for the rest of the hike.

I stopped for lunch at Green Fall Pond, a seasonal recreation area with swimming, picnic tables, outhouses, grills, and camping. This is the southern terminus for the Nehantic and Pachaug Trails.

Heading north from Green Fall Pond on the Pachaug Trail the route follows a low and mostly dry ridge for 4 miles to Route 165, crossing Route 138 along the way. The trail turns right onto Route 165, a state highway with narrow shoulders and fast-moving vehicles, for a short hike skirting the southern end of Beach Pond. The road walk enters Rhode Island at the bridge over the pond outlet, then crosses the road and heads back into the woods as the trail winds north along the pond’s eastern shore. The trail hugs the shore through the Arcadia Management Area in Rhode Island before veering away from Beach Pond and back into Connecticut and Pachaug State Forest. This is a nice stretch of the hike that offers waterfront access for hikers, unlike across the pond where the Connecticut shore is crowded with mega houses.

After leaving Beach Pond the trail begins a roughly 2-mile stretch through rocky ridges and ravines that were filled with water after late-winter rains. The trail becomes a scramble up and down the low but steep ridges, and is the most difficult section of the loop.

After the ridges the trail flattens out, and the hike to the Dawley Pond Lean-to is fast and easy. Although it’s called the Dawley Pond Lean-to, the three-sided structure is north of Dawley Pond, on Great Meadow Brook Pond.

The map here correctly shows the shelter’s location on Great Meadow Brook Pond. The Connecticut Walk Book, a comprehensive guide to Connecticut’s blue-blazed trails, mistakenly shows the shelter on Wickaboxet Marsh.

The shelter was clean when I arrived, but because it is so close to a road the shelter apparently can be a trashy party spot.

I filled up with water at the Great Meadow Brook Pond outlet just before reaching the clearly marked shelter side trail, and recommend filling up at one of the streams north of the pond if you’re coming from that direction. The pond shore is weedy and shallow at the shelter, making it difficult to get water.

The trail heading north from the shelter to Cedar Swamp Road passes stone walls and cellar holes, remnants of long-ago farms. An apparent gravesite for a 3-year-old girl who died in 1891, with fresh remembrances left at the site, sits along the trail through this section.

Emerging from the woods onto Cedar Swamp Road, the trail heads west for a short road walk. The road climbs easily to a wide-open hilltop farm—at 600-plus feet the highest point on the trail—where the wind blew fiercely from the northwest during my hike, pushing against me as I pushed back.

The trail crosses Route 49 to Hell Hollow Road, and the road walk isn’t well-blazed. But a sign does indicate the trail’s return to the woods, which loops north off Hell Hollow Road before heading south and crossing the road again.

The trail stays in the woods for several miles, crossing and following forest roads. The trail passes the Lowden Brook Cascades, and several deep pools in the brook below the falls look like promising cooling-off spots on a hot summer hike.

The walking continues to be easy to the Pachaug Trail junction with the Nehantic Trail. At this point the Pachaug and Nehantic Trails merge and head west through a recreation area popular for exercise walking. The trail soon veers left into the woods and begins ascending Mount Misery, supposedly named by European settlers for the area’s miserable farming soil. The hike to the 441-foot summit is easy and fast, and the main view is to the east and the forests I passed through on the first day of my hike.

The trail descending Mount Misery is blue-blazed but it’s easy to mistakenly follow—as I did—a herd path rather than the marked trail. At the base of the mountain the trail again follows a forest road before re-entering the woods.

A short distance later the Pachaug Trail heads south while the Nehantic Trail continues west to the Dry Reservoir Lean-to. The trail crosses a stream just before the shelter, and this is the water source for the shelter.

The Dry Reservoir Lean-to is clean, but small. I couldn’t stand up without bumping my head.

Although there’s no outstanding view at the shelter, I did see a stunning sunset and sunrise through the bare trees.

The final leg of the hike is ~6 miles, backtracking over Mount Misery and then south on the Nehantic Trail from the junction where the Pachaug Trail splits off to head north. The hike from that point back to Fish Road is flat and easy, with a short road walk on Route 49. Although blazes are few on the state highway the turnoff into the woods is clearly marked.

How to Get to Pachaug State Forest

Norwich and New London are the closest cities in Connecticut, each about a 30-minute drive to Pachaug State Forest. TF Green International Airport in Warwick, Rhode Island, is about an hour drive away.

Trailheads: Fish Road, Green Fall Pond Road, Shetucket Turnpike, Brown Road, Hell Hollow Road, Fire Tower Road, and Headquarters Road.

About the Pachaug-Nehantic Loop

The trails are mostly flat, with easy vehicle access to trailheads. Because camping is allowed only at shelters, the loop I hiked requires at least 14 miles to a shelter the first day, and about 11 miles to a shelter the second day.

But there are opportunities for shorter loops using the many interconnecting trails in the state forest. And two shelters on the Narragansett Trail make a point-to-point hike possible on that trail, or possibly putting together a different loop hike.

Here’s the route I followed on my hike:

Day 1: Park in the parking area for about 6 cars on Fish Road in Voluntown, CT, at the Nehantic Trail trailhead. Hike ~2 miles south on the Nehantic to its southern terminus at Green Fall Pond, and at the pond take the Pachaug Trail north to Dawley Pond Lean-to. Total mileage, ~14 miles.

Day 2: Continue north on the Pachaug Trail to Hell Hollow Road, then veer south and after several miles connect with the Nehantic Trail at the recreation area. Hike west on the Nehantic-Pachaug Trails over Mount Misery, then head north on the Nehantic Trail when the Pachaug splits off to head south. The Dry Reservoir Lean-to is a short distance north on the Nehantic Trail. Total mileage, ~11 miles.

Day 3: Backtrack on the Nehantic Trail and Nehantic-Pachaug Trails to the junction where the Nehantic heads south and the Pachaug goes north. Follow the Nehantic Trail south to Fish Road. Total mileage, ~6 miles.

When to Hike the Pachaug-Nehantic Loop

Spring: April can be a good month for hiking as trees begin budding and wildflowers bloom; May is warm and still mostly bug-free. March is iffy. During my hike in early March streams were swollen—one required knee-deep wading—and trails were filled with water in low spots after a week of heavy rain. Temperatures for my hike were 29 to 45, but a few days later they reached the upper 60s.

Summer: Buggy, humid, and hot.

Fall: My favorite time for backpacking. The days begin cooling off in September, and October brings peak New England foliage. November can continue to have good weather good for hiking, but hunting season begins in the state forest.

Winter: Snow is rare, and when it falls usually melts within days, making the Pachaug a good winter hike if you have cabin fever.

The Pachaug-Nehantic Loop Terrain

The trail is mainly flat as it meanders through pine and hardwood forests. The Pachaug Trail follows low ridges north of Green Fall Pond and then rocky, steep ridges north of Beach Pond.

Mount Misery is the only significant climb on the Pachaug-Nehantic loop.

Ponds, marshes, and streams are plentiful, some next to the trail, others visible in the distance through the trees.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water

Permits: Permits are required to stay at the four shelters in Pachaug State Forest. Dispersed camping is not allowed. Information on obtaining permits from the Connecticut Department of Energy & Environmental Protection can be found here.

Shelters: Dawley Pond and Dry Reservoir shelters are on the loop I hiked; Peg Mill and Legend Wood shelters are on the Narragansett Trail, which connects with the Nehantic and Pachaug Trails at Green Fall Pond. The shelters do not have bear boxes or privies.

Water: Streams and ponds are close enough along the trail that I didn’t worry about running short of water. I carried a liter and never ran dry.

Route-finding: The Pachaug and Nehantic Trails are marked with solid blue blazes; side trails use different-colored blazes and most are marked with signs. Blazes are sparse on road walks but signs mark trail turnoffs into the woods.

Know Before You Go

Clockwise or Counterclockwise?: It’s personal preference. I hiked the Pachaug-Nehantic Loop counterclockwise to get the longer-mile days out of the way on the first two days, with an easy hike to my car on day three.

Private Land: Parts of the loop pass through private land, making it important to follow the camping guidelines to preserve trail access.

Parking: The Connecticut Forest & Park Association, which maintains the 825-plus miles of blue-blazed hiking trails in Connecticut, has an interactive map on its website showing trails, shelters, and trailhead parking, with directions to the trailheads.

Transportation: Driving your own vehicle is the only practical way to get to the trail.

Cell Reception: Good throughout the forest.

Trail Guide: The Connecticut Walk Book is the ultimate guide to Connecticut’s blue-blazed trails. The book is compiled by the Connecticut Forest & Park Association, which maintains the trails, and can be purchased from the CFPA or through Amazon.

Trail Updates: Trail information such as reroutes and damaged bridges can be found here. But the information does not appear to be updated online to indicate whether problems have been resolved.

Ticks: Lyme disease was first identified in Connecticut, and the ticks carrying the disease can be active year-round. I spray my clothes with permethrin and do careful tick checks of my body after every hike in the woods.

About the Forest: At 26,477 acres in six towns, Pachaug is the largest state forest in Connecticut. The word Pachaug derives from the American Indian term meaning bend or turn in the river, referring to the 9-mile Pachaug River. The forest was inhabited by Narragansett, Pequot, Wampanoag, Nipmuck, Pocumtuck, and Mohegan peoples, most of whom were driven from their lands by European settlers.

Tree Damage: Gypsy moths heavily damaged oak and maple trees in the 2010s, evidenced by swaths of clear-cut forests and the number of dead trees on the ground in the Pachaug State Forest.

State Campgrounds in the Forest: The Green Fall Campground and Mount Misery Campground in the forest are car-camping sites that offer base camps for hiking.

Pachaug State Forest Resources

Pachaug State Forest

Interactive Map of Trails, Trailhead Parking, and Shelters

Backpack Camping in Connecticut

Weather

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Region: Mid-Atlantic (Adirondack Park, New York)

Length: 50 miles (3 to 4 days)

Physical Difficulty: Easy

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

Season: Spring, summer, fall

Net Elevation Gain: 4,094 feet

Hiking the Cranberry Lake 50

The Cranberry Lake 50 is in the northern reaches of Adirondack Park, but doesn’t have the soaring mountains of the park’s High Peaks. What it does have is a gently rolling up and down trail with campsites spread out on Cranberry Lake and the many ponds surrounding it.

I met six people while hiking, so this doesn’t have the crowds of the High Peaks. One hiker said this is what drew him to the route.

Trailhead access is from Wanakena and Cranberry Lake, small villages with friendly people and seasonal homes lining the northern shore of the lake. The roadwalk through Wanakena is along quiet roads, and people in homes and passing cars waved to me, asked me if I was “hiking the 50,” and offered water. Most of the walk through Cranberry Lake is on Route 3, a busy two-lane highway with wide bike lanes for walking so there’s less interaction with people in the village.

I parked at the Gilbert Tract trailhead on Route 3 east of Cranberry Lake. My car was the only one in the lot on Wednesday morning; four other cars were parked there when I returned the following Saturday.

The trail from the Gilbert Tract trailhead meanders through hardwood forests and bogs, with plank bridges providing dry passage through the bogs. The first Cranberry Lake campsites are about four miles in on Brandy Brook Flow. A few miles later a side trail leads one mile to East Inlet and more campsites on the lake.

The trail heads away from the lake and begins crossing ridges, passing Curtis and Dog ponds, both with small campsites. I stayed my first night at Dog Pond with two other hikers on flat shoreline rock ledges while resting after a roughly 12-mile day. The next campsite was about 6.5 miles away at Chair Rock Flow on Cranberry Lake, and I didn’t have it in me to continue. So I ate supper by the pond and watched the sunset.

The second day I headed out early with no specific destination. Lean-tos at Olmstead and Cowhorn ponds, campsites at Cat Mountain and Glasby ponds, and lean-tos and campsites at High Falls were all possibilities. This section of the trail has the most elevation gain of the hike, but it wasn’t anything that beat me up.

The trail passed through wilderness forests, at times on what appeared to be old logging roads. Shortly after passing Cat Mountain Pond I had a decision to make: hike the 1.4-mile round-trip spur trail up Cat Mountain (2,257 feet) or continue on to camp at High Falls. I chose the mountain, and the trail was moderately steep with a short rock scramble near the top. The view from the rock ledges on the mountaintop took in the Five Ponds Wilderness to the south, an area I’ve often thought about visiting. And if I had set aside more than four days for this trip, that would have been a possibility.

Once down from the mountain I decided that hiking on to High Falls was out and I headed for Glasby Pond, less than a mile away. The campsite at Glasby Pond is small, but has a short path to the pond, where I filtered water, ate supper, and chatted with another hiker spending the night. In the morning I had breakfast by the pond and watched the sunrise. Total miles for the day (including Cat Mountain) was about 16.

Day 3 was an easy hike to High Falls, about .4 of a mile off the CL50, and the trip was well worth it to see the falls on the Oswegatchie River. This is a popular overnight site, with lean-tos and several campsites.

Back on the 50 the trail follows a mostly straight, flat line about nine miles to Wanakena. Along the way the trail crosses several beaver dams, with the water flowing over the dams ranging from ankle deep to higher, depending on the amount of recent rain. The worst crossing was ankle deep when I went through.

The hike to Wanakena was easy, but I found the flat trail and scenery monotonous. Plus I was pushing myself to to rack up miles to have an easy last day back to my car. Passing through Wanakena cheered me up as I found the people ready with a wave or hello. I regret not stopping for a drink and snack at Otto’s Abode.

My day ended at the tent site near loop 1 on the Peavine Swamp Trail, a nice spot but the only campsite I saw on the 50 that was not on the water. While falling asleep I heard barred owls screeching on one side of the campsite and traffic on nearby Route 3 on the other side. Total miles for the day was about 17.

The fourth day was an easy six-ish miles through woods and on roads back to my car east of Cranberry Lake. I made sure to stop for a snack and drink at the Lakeside General Store, right on the trail on Route 3. It’s a popular stop for CL50 hikers in summer, but hiker visitors had dropped off by the time I stopped by.

How to Get to the Cranberry Lake 50

Find it: Wanakena and Cranberry Lake

Closest city: 2.5 hours north of Syracuse, New York.

You can also start from Albany (3.25 hours) or Plattsburg (2 hours). All three cities have airports, but you’ll be driving from there to Wanakena and Cranberry Lake.

Parking: There are several spots for parking in Wanakena and Cranberry Lake. I parked at the Gilbert Tract trailhead.

• Recreation area on South Shore Road in Wanakena
• Peavine Swamp trailhead on Route 3 west of Cranberry Lake
• Department of Environmental Conservation boat launch on Columbian Road in Cranberry Lake
• Gilbert Tract trailhead on Route 3 a short walk east of Cranberry Lake
• Burntbridge Pond/Brandy Brook trailhead, on Route 3 about 2 miles east of Cranberry Lake. This involves a short hike to the 50.

About the Cranberry Lake 50

The Cranberry Lake 50 is a collection of existing trails in the Five Ponds Wilderness and Cranberry Lake Wild Forest within Adirondack Park. The 50 is clearly marked with bold blue trail markers stamped with the number 50 and it’s hard—but not impossible—to miss a turn and go the wrong way at a trail junction. (Yes, I did miss a turn but corrected it.) Clearly marked side trails lead even deeper into the wilderness and campsites on ponds.

The trail is well-maintained, with only a few blowdowns blocking the trail. All were easy to walk over or around.

Cranberry Lake was created in the late 1800s when the Oswegatchie River was dammed, and got its name from the cranberry bogs around the river. The dam now provides hydroelectric power.

When to Hike the Cranberry Lake 50

Spring: May can be a good month for hiking, between the likely last snowfall and before the onset of bugs. March and April can be cold with snow a strong possibility, and the bugs begin swarming in June.

Summer: Buggy, wet, and warm. Some people prefer the summer when they can swim in the ponds.

Fall: My favorite time for hiking. The temperature was in the mid 60s during the day and low 40s at night when I hiked the third week of September. The maple trees around the lakes were ablaze with red and the sky was brilliantly blue for four days. I can’t remember when the last time was I had a string of days like that.

Winter: Hiking the 50 in the winter is possible, but the snow will be deep and the temperatures low. Snowmobiles use some of the trails that make up the 50 so it’s important to watch out for them.

The Cranberry Lake 50 Terrain

The trail from Wanakena to High Falls is on an old logging railroad, and can be tedious in its unrelenting flatness. Several beaver dam crossings can be overflowing with deep water in spring and high-rain summers. Although some hikers avoid going counterclockwise from Wanakena to avoid the certainty of wet shoes early in the hike while crossing the beaver dams, the flat trail is an easy first-day hike. And your shoes are going to get wet eventually along the trail.

The trail from Route 3 in Cranberry Lake also starts with little elevation change along planks through several deep-water bogs. Only after reaching Cranberry Lake in several miles does the trail begin rolling up and down along ridges, and continues that way to Glasby Pond a few miles east of High Falls.

The 50 follows roads in Cranberry Lake and Wanakena, and an easy trail links the two villages.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water

Permits: No permits are needed to hike the Cranberry Lake 50.

Camping: Lean-tos at High Falls, Cowhorn Pond, and Olmstead Pond, and primitive campsites at other ponds and Cranberry Lake; most have an open privy, and a few have picnic tables. Campsites are marked on the Cranberry Lake 50 map.

Water: Streams and ponds are spread out along the trail so you don’t have to worry about running short of water. There are several beaver ponds on the trail between High Falls and Wanakena, but I don’t recommend getting water from them. I filtered water drawn from streams running into ponds or away from ponds to avoid beaver activity in the ponds.

Route-finding: Blue discs with 50 inscribed on them are nailed to trees along the trail. The markers are easy to see and it’s rare to hike far without seeing one.

Water Crossings: Bridges span most wide streams. But the beaver dam crossings on the trail between High Falls and Wanakena are covered with water, ranging from ankle deep when I hiked in late September to much deeper in spring and a heavy-rain summer.

Know Before You Go

Clockwise or Counterclockwise?: There’s no right answer. Some people hike clockwise to leave the beaver dam crossings and guaranteed wet feet to the end of the trail. Others go counterclockwise because the trail from Wanakena to High Falls is the flattest section. When I hiked I met three people hiking clockwise (four including me) and three counterclockwise, so it’s really personal preference.

Transportation: Driving your own vehicle is the only practical way to get to the trail.

Cell Reception: Surprisingly good in the village of Cranberry Lake, but I couldn’t get reception anywhere else, including in Wanakena.

Trail Guides: The Cranberry Lake 50 Pocket Guide, by Jamie Savage & Spencer Morrissey, Wildcliff Press, was updated in spring 2023 and sold out almost immediately. Other sources for information are the Western Trails guidebook and the National Geographic Adirondack Park (Old Forge/Oswegatchie) map. I used the National Geographic map for trail mileage and the Cranberry Lake 50 organization trail map available here for campsites and shelters along the trail.

Trail Stops: Otto’s Abode in Wanakena and the Lakeside General Store in Cranberry Lake are right on the trail and are must stops for a cold drink and snacks. Both are near trailhead parking.

Lodging: Packbasket Adventures, 12 South Shore Road Extension, Wanakena. Overnight stays, breakfast, packed lunches. Shuttle to Cranberry Lake 50 trailheads. (315) 848-3488

Wildlife: Moose and bears are in the woods, but they’re seldom seen. Red squirrels are seen much more frequently, especially at campsites where they’re trying to raid food stashes. I carry a bear can and had no problems. A fellow hiker at one campsite had a difficult time finding a suitable spot to hang his food bag. Loons live on the lakes, and their haunting calls fill the forest. And of course beavers are active along the trail.

Trails in the 50: The Cranberry Lake 50 combines existing trails to create a loop around Cranberry Lake. Details on those trails can be found on the CL50 website under trail descriptions.

Regulations: State land hiking and camping regulations for the CL50

The 50 Patch: Register your hike and donate a minimum of $5 to get a patch for completing the Cranberry Lake 50.

Behind the 50: The Cranberry Lake 50 is a project of Five Ponds Partners, created to draw people to northwestern Adirondack Park.

State Campground: The New York State-run Cranberry Lake Campground is off Route 3 in Cranberry Lake.

Don’t Rush: The Cranberry Lake 50 can be hiked in three days and two nights. I did it in 3.5. But there are so many side trails leading to ponds deeper into the wilderness that I could easily see spending a week hiking pond to pond. And if you like to fish that’s even more incentive to stay longer.

Cranberry Lake 50 Resources

The Cranberry Lake 50

Cranberry Lake 50 Facebook group

The Cranberry Lake 50 Pocket Guide by James Savage, a professor at the Ranger School in Wanakena.

Western Trails guidebook

Adirondack Park (Old Forge/Oswegatchie) map

Local weather

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The Titcomb Basin Loop is a 44-mile route through the Wind River Range in Wyoming. Highlights of this trip include the namesake Titcomb Basin with an off-trail opportunity to dive deeper into the backcountry.

Day 1 (Elkhart Park – Pole Creek Trailhead to Titcomb Lakes)
Day 2 (Titcomb Lakes to Trapper Lake)
Day 3 (Trapper Lake to Elkhart Park – Pine Creek Trailhead)

Titcomb Basin Loop At-a-Glance

Region: Mountain West (Bridger Wilderness, Bridger-Teton National Forest)
Distance: 44 miles (3-5 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult
—Exposure at high elevations (sun, thunderstorms)
—Sections of loose talus and Class II scrambling (Knapsack Col only)
—Off-trail navigation (Knapsack Col only)

Logistical Difficulty: Easy
—Permits are free and self-issued at the trailhead
—Loop route (no shuttle required)
—Camping is undesignated
—Water is plentiful

Season: Summer, Early Fall

Elevation (average): ~10,500
Total Elevation Gain: 7,411 feet

Hiking Titcomb Basin Loop

Titcomb Basin is a bucket-list backpacking destination in Wyoming’s Wind River Range. The area can be quite popular (by Wyoming standards), but the broader Bridger Wilderness provides ample opportunity for solitude. It’s easy to think of the loop as having three distinct sections: The first section introduces you to the Wind River’s granite monoliths en route to Titcomb Basin; the second section follows the Continental Divide northbound, carrying you deeper into the high country; and the third section is the home stretch, leading you through thick forests before returning you to your car.

I completed this route in three days over Labor Day weekend in 2022. Most hikers I encountered were in the first 14 miles of the trail before reaching Titcomb Basin.

Pole Creek Trail introduces you to the Wind River Range by leading you through dense forests and several meadows before spitting you out at Photographers Point. This section of trail gives you time to warm up your legs and make pack adjustments as needed. (Conversely, if you start the loop in a clockwise direction, you’ll begin with a 1,700-foot descent to Pine Creek … not fun.) From here, you’ll remain above 10,000 feet elevation, weaving around many large and small lakes. Both Seneca Lake (mile 9) and Island Lake (mile 12) are excellent camping options before reaching Titcomb Basin at mile 14.

The basin comprises a series of Titcomb lakes that are surrounded by towering 13,000-foot granite peaks: Henderson Peak to the west, Jackson, Fremont, Sacagawea, and Mount Helen to the east. Most hikers and backpackers will travel in and out the basin via the southern drainage (toward Island Lake). Having read trip reports that mentioned the Knapsack Col alternative (exiting the basin to the north), I knew I needed to give it a try! This is an off-trail route that is both challenging and rewarding for experienced hikers. I recommend researching current trail conditions (closer to your departure date) and assessing your physical capabilities. Route finding, rock scrambling, scree climbing: If this does not appeal to you, return to Island Lake, and continue north on the Highline / Continental Divide Trail.

Approach Knapsack Col by following the Titcomb Basin Trail north until it ends. From here, follow the creek and begin a boulder scramble. The creek is coming from a small lake at 11,700 feet. Continue west up a small saddle before gaining sight of Knapsack Col (identifiable by the snowfield at its base). Approach the col by angling up and across the scree slope. The snowfield I encountered in early September was easy to avoid by following the slope up and to the right. This 1.5-mile section through the upper basin was the highlight of the trip for me.

The remainder of the route, as they say, is all downhill. Follow the faint user trail down to Peak Lake where you regain the maintained trail system. Climb up and over Shannon Pass before reconnecting with the Highline / Continental Divide Tail. This section of the route (along the CDT) is very exposed. The trail grade is not challenging; however, I completed this during the middle of Day 2 and it was very hot. A hat, sun hoody, and sunscreen would be very helpful. Thankfully, water is abundant. 

At Summit Lake, you will leave the CDT to complete the loop along Summit Lake and Long Lake Trails. Along the way, there are many lakes to camp at. After logging 18.6 miles on Day 2, I set up camp at Trapper Lake. There is a sandy beach along the north side of the lake that was unfortunately occupied by other campers when I arrived. I found a more secluded campsite along the western shore and spent the evening rehydrating myself and my dog with plenty of electrolytes.

Wildfire smoke had blown in on my final day as I left Trapper Lake. I began the steep descent (2,300 feet) to Pine Creek, where I refilled water, before a final climb (1,800 feet) back to my car.

How to Get to Titcomb Basin Loop

Closest Major City: Pinedale, Wyoming

Elkhart Park – Pole Creek Trailhead is the most direct route to reach Titcomb Basin. The Elkhart Park recreation area is a 15-mile drive from Pinedale (25-30 minutes). Pick up any last-minute snacks you need at Obo’s Market and Deli before you head up the mountain. There is a large parking area at the trailhead with vaulted toilets but no fresh drinking water. Trails End Campground has 8 sites and operates on a first-come, first-serve basis ($12/night).

When to Hike the Titcomb Basin Loop

Midsummer to early fall is the best time to hike in the Winds. The route travels between 9,000 to 12,000 feet elevation and annual snowfall is an important consideration when timing your hike. Snow may linger at high elevations late into the summer. Labor Day was an ideal time. I encountered no snow on the trail (avoiding the small snowfield on Knapsack Col), negligible bugs, and several late wildflowers.

Even in summer months, make sure you prepare for mountain weather as rain and thunderstorms can develop quickly, and overnight temperatures may drop significantly.

Titcomb Basin Loop Terrain

Much of the route is well marked, graded, and easy to follow. You will encounter some rocky sections, and should expect several long, sustained climbs. The most challenging section of this hike is the off-trail route over Knapsack Col. I recommend tackling this section early in the morning while your legs are fresh and the sun is still low in the sky.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Leave No Trace

Permits: None! Titcomb Basin and the surrounding area are part of the Bridger-Teton National Forest (Bridger Wilderness). Permits are only required for organized groups. Check the US Forest Service website for additional details.

Camping: Bridger Wilderness regulations (and Leave No Trace principles) specify that campsites must be at least 200 feet away from a lakeshore or trail, and 100 feet away from a stream, creek, or spring. It is always best to look for existing-use sites. Mind these regulations if you plan to set up camp at Titcomb Basin; these sites can be difficult to find. Many spots that appear to be existing camp sites around Titcomb Lakes are illegal (given the 200-foot rule). It’s also worth checking above Titcomb Lakes at Mistake Lake, where a few additional sites exist.

Food Storage: Black bears and grizzly bears are present in the Bridger Wilderness and proper food storage is required. Since many areas of the route (including Titcomb Basin) are above treeline, a hard-sided bear canister is recommended. I use the BearVault BV500, which is large enough to carry a few days’ of food, plus toiletries, dog food, and trash at night.

Campfires: Campfires are permitted only below timberline. Cutting or removing standing wood is not allowed. Use established fire rings, pans, or mound fires where fires are permitted.

Know Before You Go

Weather: Weather conditions and temperatures can change rapidly in the Winds. Check forecasts leading up to your trip, but also prepare for wet, windy, or generally colder-than-expected weather. Mountain-forecast.com is a great resource to get localized weather forecasts for the Wind River Range, which allows you to search weather by mountain peak (e.g., Fremont Peak, which towers over Titcomb Basin).

Bears: There is a possibility of encountering black and grizzly bears in the Winds. Carry bear spray and know how to use it. I also like to carry a bear bell. I can’t guarantee the effectiveness, but they are cheap, lightweight, and easier to use than trying to talk to yourself to make noise.

Water: Water is plentiful along the Titcomb Basin Loop. Treat all water with portable water filters, chemical methods, or by boiling. I prefer the Katadyn BeFree Water Filtration System that doubles as a water reservoir.

Off-Trail Navigation: The route described should only be attempted by experienced hikers. That said, Knapsack Col is manageable as a beginner / intermediate off-trail route. The climb is steep, and you will be carrying your backpacking gear, so expect a slower pace. You should be comfortable reading the terrain and have access to both paper maps and electronic navigation systems.

Hiking Titcomb Basin with a Dog: Dogs are allowed in the Bridger Wilderness but should be under control at all times and kept away from other people and wildlife. I have a reactive dog and found the majority of pet owners were allowing their dogs to hike off-leash. This made me very nervous for the safety of my dog, for the safety of their dogs, and for the safety of wildlife in general.

My dog is an experienced backpacker. She was able to navigate the Class II scramble approach to Knapsack Col quite effectively but struggled on the loose talus toward the top of the climb. We encountered another backpacker with a dog (wearing boots) coming up the col from the west side. This route is attainable but challenging for both two- and four-legged friends.

Resources

Bridger Wilderness Regulations (website)

Local weather for Fremont Peak (website)

Inger Appanaitis lives in Northern Colorado and recreates throughout the Mountain West. Her home base includes Rocky Mountain National Park and the Indian Peaks Wilderness. She enjoys thinking about, planning, and executing long days on the trail. Follow along for dogs, training, and the outdoors @ingerfied

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Region: New England (Connecticut, Massachusetts)

Length: 215 miles (14 to 20 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

Logistical Difficulty: Difficult

Season: Year-round
Highest Elevation: 1,617 feet
Lowest Elevation: 0 feet
Net Elevation Gain: 30,000 feet

Hiking the New England Trail

The New England Trail threads its way through heavily populated private land and preciously preserved public land from Long Island Sound in Connecticut north to Royalston Falls in Massachusetts and the terminus at the New Hampshire border. Most of the trail follows the rocky Metacomet Ridge, with expansive views of farmland and encroaching suburban housing developments below, and at times the trail skirts the edges of residential yards and follows paved roads. Despite that closeness to suburbia, there’s solitude in the woods, especially in winter, when I hiked most of the trail.

The woods tell the story of early New England: stone walls built by farmers, a graveyard for smallpox victims, and stone caves where men fighting with post-Revolutionary War insurrectionist Daniel Shays reportedly camped.

The 21^st century tells a different story: encroaching suburban neighborhoods and battles to secure the trail’s path where it passes through private land.

And that’s what makes thru-hiking the NET a challenge. The on-trail campsites are on public land or private land with landowners’ permission, and hikers are advised to leave the trail for overnight accommodations if not staying at a designated campsite.

The southern and northern trail sections have the most sites, with only three overnight sites in the wide gap in between. Observing the guidelines against stealth camping means paying attention to when you need to get off trail to sleep. Although the trail frequently crosses roads, many of them pass through suburban neighborhoods that don’t offer opportunities for resupply and lodging.

And be aware that if you choose to stealth camp, you may be pitching your tent in someone’s backyard.

Roadwalks are the bane of thru-hikers, and the NET has plenty of them. The Western Massachusetts Chapter of the Appalachian Mountain Club and the Connecticut Forest & Park Association, which together maintain the trail, are working to move those roadwalks into the woods and establish more campsites.

Lyme disease was first identified in Lyme, Connecticut, a town near the trail, and it’s now present in ticks all along the trail. It’s a good idea to check daily for ticks—even in winter—and treat your clothes with Permethrin to repel them.

Copperheads and timber rattlesnakes live along the trail in Connecticut and southern Massachusetts, although it’s rare to see one. They are considered endangered in both states.

How to Get to the New England Trail

The southern terminus on Long Island Sound in Guilford, Connecticut, is an easy reach using public transportation. The northern terminus in Royalston Falls has no public transportation and cell coverage is spotty. The New England Scenic Trail Hikers Facebook page has information on people willing to shuttle hikers in Connecticut and Massachusetts.

Northern Terminus

The trailhead parking in Royalston Falls is .7 miles from the northern terminus at the New Hampshire border. The TTOR Lean-to is near the terminus, so it’s possible for northbound thru-hikers to stay there after reaching the terminus or stay at the shelter to begin a southbound hike.

Although Uber and Lyft say they have drivers who go to the northern terminus, actually getting someone to drive you may be a different story.

Public transportation to the northern terminus is possible, but involves planning and several steps. Greyhound and Amtrak both stop at the John W. Olver Transit Center in Greenfield, Massachusetts, and from there a Franklin Regional Transit Authority bus goes to Orange, Massachusetts. An Uber or Lyft could be possible from Orange to the terminus at Royalston Falls, about a 16-mile ride.

Another possibility is taking the MBTA Commuter Rail from Boston to Fitchburg, Massachusetts, and setting up an Uber or Lyft to the northern terminus. It’s about 34 miles from Fitchburg to Royalston Falls.

Because of spotty cell reception at the northern terminus arranging an Uber or Lyft from there is dicey. If you’re heading north the Mt. Grace peak is a good spot to arrange a pickup at the northern terminus.

Southern Terminus

Getting to the southern terminus at Chittenden Park on Long Island Sound in Guilford is much easier.

Nearby New Haven, Connecticut, is a major rail and bus hub, and from New Haven the Shoreline East train runs to Guilford, where the NET passes through the station. Hikers taking the train to Guilford walk a short distance to the southern terminus, turn around, and begin their northbound hike, passing back through the train station.

The following public transportation options provide access to the southern terminus:

Amtrak Hartford Line: Commuter service from Springfield, Massachusetts, to New Haven. Amtrak trains from Burlington, Vermont, and Montreal, Canada, also stop along this line.

Amtrak: Nationwide rail service that has a stop in New Haven.

Metro-North: Rail service from Grand Central Terminal in New York City to New Haven.

Shoreline East: Train from New Haven to Old Saybrook, Connecticut, with a stop in Guilford.

Peter Pan: Bus service to New Haven from cities in Connecticut and Massachusetts.

Greyhound: Bus service to New Haven from cities across the country.

When to Hike the New England Trail

Spring: Late March through mid-May are good times for starting at Long Island Sound. The snow should be gone by then, although late March and April snowstorms are always possible in northern sections. Late May into June can be irritatingly buggy.

Summer: Hot, humid, and still buggy. A dry summer can make water supplies low and the hike difficult.

Fall: Cooler temperatures, no bugs, and the leaves are starting to change color by late September. September rains can replenish water supplies.

Winter: Snow is rare near the coast, more likely from northern Connecticut to the Massachusetts-New Hampshire border. Still, in southern Massachusetts and all of Connecticut it’s rare lately that snow on the ground lasts more than a week after a winter storm.

The New England Trail Terrain

The trail starts at sea level on Long Island Sound in Guilford, and follows roads north through Guilford for about 3 miles before climbing atop the Metacomet Ridge, whose craggy, reddish cliffs are made up of traprock, a volcanic basalt rock. Hikers climb up and down the mostly dry ridge, high above suburban housing developments and nearby cities, as it winds through Connecticut and southern Massachusetts.

Those ridgetop climbs and sweeping views from open cliffs are repeated along the trail through Connecticut: Trimountain; Beseck Mountain, where the trail passes close to the steep ridge cliff; Mount Higby, with views south to Long Island Sound and north to Mount Tom in southern Massachusetts; Chauncey Peak, which drops steeply to Crescent Lake on one side and a working quarry on the other; Lamentation Mountain; the Hanging Hills; and Ragged Mountain, popular with rock climbers.

Along the way Castle Craig in the Hanging Hills and Heublein Tower farther north provide good views of the surrounding land in Connecticut, and can be packed with day trippers.

Soon after entering Massachusetts hikers encounter the Westfield River, which can be crossed if the water is low. If the water is high a shuttle is the best way to cross the river. Go to the New England Scenic Trail Hikers Facebook page and search for “Westfield River shuttle” to find people who drive hikers across the river.

The trail then passes the Harold Akey Tentsite, the last established tentsite until the Erving State Forest shelter some 50 miles north. A short distance north the trail climbs East Mountain on switchbacks and continues along the mountain’s ridge before descending to state Route 202.

The next major climb is Mount Tom, 1,202 feet high. The trail continues through the Mount Tom Range, passing over Whiting Peak, Goat Peak, and Mount Nonotuck, before descending to Route 5 on the west side of the Connecticut River.

The river is too deep and wide to cross, and a roadwalk to cross the nearest bridge is about 10 miles. The trail starts well away from the river on the east side and getting to it from the river requires bushwhacking through private land, so finding a boat ride across the river might not be the best idea.

Many thru-hikers shuttle to Northampton, Massachusetts, or Hadley, Massachusetts, to rest and clean up at a hotel, and resupply for the rest of the hike.

The trail east of the river starts in Skinner State Park on Mountain Road in Hadley, and climbs to the Summit House, with restrooms and water, on Mount Holyoke. From there the trail passes over Mount Holyoke, Mount Hitchcock, Bare Mountain, Mount Norwottuck, and Long Mountain through the Mount Holyoke Range. The trail through the range is packed with panoramic views and up and down rock scrambling, with a steep drop and climb between Bare and Norwottuck mountains. The Notch Visitor Center between the two peaks has flush toilets and water. Norwottuck, at 1,106 feet, is the highest peak in the range.

After coming down from the Holyoke Range, the trail meanders gradually up and down before reaching the moderately flat Quabbin Reservoir watershed, the most isolated section of the trail. Four towns were abandoned to fill the reservoir that supplies water for Greater Boston, and the lands around Quabbin are empty and protected.

Farther north the trail climbs Stratton Mountain and Mount Grace, at 1,617 feet the highest peak on the trail, before ending at Royalston Falls and the New Hampshire border.

It’s possible to do 15- to 20-mile days on the trail, making a thru-hike in 14 to 20 days within reach. Because the trail crosses so many roads multi-day hikes with stops at overnight campsites can be combined with daylong section hikes.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water

Permits: No permits are needed to hike the New England Trail.

Camping: Some of the designated camping sites, such as the Richardson-Zlogar Cabin in Massachusetts, require reservations. Fires are not allowed at campsites in Connecticut, and stealth camping along the trail is discouraged. Trail maintainers are working to add more overnight sites.

The sites from south to north are: Godman Group Campsite, Cattails Shelter, Lamentation Mountain Primitive Tentsite, Windsor Locks Scouts Primitive Tentsite, Harold Akey Tentsite, Mt. Holyoke Outing Club Cabin, Wendell State Forest Lean-to, Richardson-Zlogar Cabin, Mt. Grace Lean-to, and TTOR Lean-to at Royalston Falls. Campsite details can be found here.

Campsites are nicely spaced between the southern terminus and Lamentation Mountain Primitive Tentsite and between the Wendell State Forest Lean-to and the TTOR Lean-to at Royalston Falls near the northern terminus. But the long gap between Lamentation Mountain and the Windsor Locks Tentsite may require getting off trail for the night. The same goes for the gap between the Connecticut River and the Wendell State Forest Lean-to.

The Richardson-Zlogar Cabin, with its wide open vista east to Mount Grace and Mount Monadnock, and a beautiful sunrise view, is the gem of the trail’s shelters. The cabin is locked and needs to be reserved online to get the lock code. It’s also possible, but not necessary, to reserve the tentsites as they rarely fill up.

Although the NET website lists the Mt. Holyoke Outing Club Cabin as an overnight site, the guidelines on picking up and returning a key make the cabin an impractical option.

The Windsor Locks tentsite is near Bradley International Airport, and planes taking off frequently passed noisily overhead while I camped there; the lights from one plane lit up my tent.

Water: Few of the campsites have natural water sources, and water can be scarce along the trail from Long Island Sound to the northern end of the Holyoke Range. Some overnight sites have water caches, but it’s best not to rely on them. Water is easier to find north of the Holyoke Range.

Route-finding: The trail is marked with blue blazes in Connecticut, white blazes through Massachusetts. M&M signs (Metacomet and Monadnock, the trail name in Massachusetts before it became the New England National Scenic Trail) are nailed to trees alongside white blazes in northern Massachusetts. Numerous side paths cross the NET, so paying attention to blazes is important. If your mind wanders in thought on trail like my does it’s easy to miss a turn blaze and head down a side path instead of staying on the NET. And keep in mind that sometimes at trail junctions the most heavily used path that lies ahead might not be the NET.

Rivers: The Westfield River in Massachusetts can be waded if the water is low. The roadwalk around the river crossing is 3.7 miles on busy roads, so it’s best to arrange a ride if the river is high. The Connecticut River in Massachusetts can be crossed by roadwalking 10.2 miles along high-speed, high-traffic roads. Some hikers arrange a ride to lodging in Northampton or Hadley after the trail reaches the western bank of the Connecticut, resupply, and resume walking the trail the next day on the eastern bank.

Parking: The NET website has an interactive map that shows parking areas along the trail, describes how many cars each spot fits, whether they’re lots or road shoulders, and provides directions to them.

Trail Angels: Some people along the trail help with rides, lodging, and water caches, but there isn’t a well-established system of hostels and shuttle drivers. Search the New England Scenic Trail Facebook page for people willing to shuttle hikers or post on the page that you’re looking for a ride.

Know Before You Go

On to Canada: It is possible to hike from Long Island Sound in Connecticut to Canada following the NET; the New Hampshire Metacomet & Monadnock Trail and the Monadnock-Sunapee Greenway in Southern New Hampshire; and the Cohos Trail in northern New Hampshire. Several options link the Greenway to the Cohos Trail, with information about them on the NET to Cohos Trail Facebook page.

North or South?: Which direction to hike can depend on the season or how you’re getting to and from the termini. If you’re starting in late winter or early spring setting off at Long Island Sound makes it less likely to encounter snow in the north. Starting in the north during the fall means hiking with the foliage as it changes color north to south.

Arranging transportation to the northern terminus is complicated, while southern terminus transportation is easy because the trail passes through a train station a short walk from the terminus. So hiking south means getting the complicated trip planning out of the way and scoring an easy ride at the end of your hike.

Spur Trail: A ~28-mile NET spur trail runs from near Broomstick Ledges in Guilford to the Connecticut River in Middletown, Connecticut. Once at the river, it’s necessary to backtrack to the main NET. The spur is considered part of the New England Trail, but is it part of a thru-hike? Many thru-hikers walk past the spur trail. The NET website, however, says hikers have to walk every mile of the trail to get an NET finisher patch.

Resupply: Meriden, Connecticut, and Hadley are good jumping-off points for lodging and resupply. Small restaurants and stores on or near the trail also provide food options, but north of Hadley lodging and food stores are far from the trail. The trail passes through the parking lot of Guida’s Restaurant on Route 66 between Beseck and Higby mountains in Connecticut, making it a favorite thru-hiker stop. The trail also passes through the small village of Tariffville, Connecticut, which has some restaurants.

Cell Reception: Cell phone reception is good from Long Island Sound through the northern end of the Holyoke Range. After that it’s good on peaks, but not reliable down low.

Trail Guides: Paper maps of the New England Trail—one for Connecticut, one for Massachusetts—are available here. The maps show trail section mileage but not elevation. The NET online interactive map gives information on camping, directions to trail parking, and section mileage. FarOut has an NET app.

Gun Ranges: Multiple gun ranges and an archery range are near or right next to the trail in Connecticut and Massachusetts.

One of 11: The New England Trail is one of 11 National Scenic Trails. The others are the Appalachian Trail, Arizona Trail, Continental Divide Trail, Florida Trail, Ice Age Trail, Natchez Trace, North Country Trail, Pacific Crest Trail, Pacific Northwest Trail, and Potomac Heritage Trail.

National Park Status: The New England Trail was granted national park status by the U.S. National Park Service in late 2023.

NET’s Origins: The New England Trail was designated a National Scenic Trail in 2009, and is comprised primarily of the historic Mattabesett, Menunkatuk, Metacomet, and Monadnock trails in Connecticut and Massachusetts. Those trail names are still used along sections of the NET.

New England Trail Resources

The New England Trail: Trail website with an interactive map showing campsites and parking. Maps of the trail through Connecticut and Massachusetts are also available.

FarOut: Mobile app of the NET available.

Amtrak

Shoreline East

Metro-North

Peter Pan bus

Greyhound bus

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The 55-mile Teton Loop is an alternative to the popular Teton Crest Trail, with fewer logistical hurdles, and an opportunity to experience the full diversity of Grand Teton National Park.

Region: Mountain West (Grand Teton National Park)
Distance: 55 miles (2-5 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Steep terrain, including two 3,000-foot climbs
• Climbing and descending at high elevations
• Exposure, sun, and thunderstorms at high elevations

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

Season: Summer, early fall

Total Elevation Gain: 9,643 feet

Hiking the Teton Loop

This 55-mile loop allows hikers to experience the Tetons from almost every angle in the park, including low alpine forests, steep granite canyons, and high alpine ridges. Attempting the route in two days is challenging yet rewarding. You could turn this route into a longer endeavor but this requires additional work navigating the park’s competitive backcountry permit system.

My strategy in attempting this loop was to keep things simple. I was willing and capable to hike long days with a light pack. I had initially tried and failed to secure an advance reservation permit in January when they are first released. Without this advance permit, however, I had the flexibility to wait and monitor current weather and wildfire conditions until I was ready to begin my hike.

The park allocates two-thirds of backcountry camping for first come, first served permits. To secure one of these permits, I arrived at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station at sunrise the day before my desired start date. While I was not the first visitor in line at 5 a.m., many of the people ahead of me were requesting climbing permits. Whether trying to secure an advance reservation or a first come, first served permit, be prepared with several alternative itineraries. The stars aligned and I was granted my first choice start date and camping zone. 

The Grand Teton National Park website warns hikers to expect travel of no more than 2 miles per hour, with an additional hour for every 1,000 feet of elevation gain. My plan was to start at the Jenny Lake Trailhead and camp at the Death Canyon Shelf camping zone, splitting the loop into two even-mileage days (final mileage being 28.6 and 26.7 miles). My pace was brisk but comfortable and I enjoyed longer breaks at water sources when needed. 

How to get to Teton Loop

Closest Major City: Jackson, Wyoming

This route can be accessed from several trailheads along Teton Park Road with overnight parking permitted at the following trailheads: String Lake, Jenny Lake, and Lupine Meadows.

Parking at these trailheads overnight is only allowed with a backcountry permit (more on permits below). Car make, model, and license plate information are recorded on your backcountry permit (no physical parking permit is issued). One advantage of starting and ending at Jenny Lake is the Jenny Lake Store. If you are exiting the park headed north, this is one of the few food options as you head up Highway 191 toward Yellowstone National Park.

When to Hike the Teton Loop

Midsummer to early fall is the best time to hike the Teton Loop (I highly recommend aiming for wildflower season!). Other conditions you may consider when planning for this trip:

Snow Level: Snow may linger at higher elevations.

Wildfires: Breathing conditions, let alone views, can be severely impacted by heavy wildfire smoke later in the summer. It depends on the year, but keep tabs on air quality and wildfire locations.

Bugs: I did not encounter any bugs but I would recommend carrying bug spray as insurance.

Weather: Daytime and overnight temperatures can fluctuate dramatically from the valley floor to the Teton Crest.

Afternoon Thunderstorms: I experienced light rain and some thunder all three days I was in the park. Bring a rain jacket!

It is also important to remember that Grand Teton National Park is home to many large mammals. During certain times of the year these animals are more or less active. For example, the peak of the Rocky Mountain elk breeding season runs from mid-September through mid-October. I carried a bear bell (and bear spray) to alert larger animals of my approach. Bear canisters are required for food storage in the backcountry. Canisters may be checked out for free when you pick up your permit. 

Teton Loop Terrain

The Teton Loop has varied terrain but nothing too challenging. Starting at Jenny Lake, the route leads you through a large meadow before entering the alpine forest along the Valley Trail. This section of trail is spotted with numerous lakes and creeks and water is ample. As you begin climbing up to the crest, you will encounter rockier terrain; however, trails are well maintained along the remainder of the crest.

Teton Loop Logistics: Permits, Camping, Leave No Trace

Permits: A backcountry permit is required for all overnight stays in Grand Teton National Park. Camping is only permitted in designated camping zones. Regardless of the processes outlined below, make sure you have several alternative itineraries on hand when securing your permit.

The advance reservation system is highly competitive! One-third of permits are reserved for each camping zone. Reservations for the summer season are accepted January through May (check the park website to find out what day and time they are released for the current season). Reservations are accepted on recreation.gov and require a $45 nonrefundable processing fee. 

The remaining two-thirds of permits are saved for first come, first served. These permits are available at the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center, Colter Bay Visitor Center, and the Jenny Lake Ranger Station. Permits are available the day of your start day or one day in advance. There is a $35 fee for each walk-in backcountry permit.

Camping: Some of the backcountry camping zones of Grand Teton National Park, such as Marion Lake, have “improved” sites with designated tent sites and bear boxes. Other camping zones lack these amenities and backpackers should use existing bare ground sites to minimize impact. You must always camp at least 200 feet from water and the trail, so that you are out of sight and sound of others. 

Leave No Trace: Campsite “improvements,” such as constructing benches and digging trenches, are prohibited. Fires are also prohibited in the backcountry. Visitors are required to carry out all food scraps and trash (including toilet paper and used tampons or sanitary pads). These items can be disposed of at the Jenny Lake Trailhead when you complete the loop. Additionally, bury all human waste 6-8 inches deep in soil that is at least 200 feet from lakes, streams, and wetlands.

Know Before You Go

Weather: Weather conditions and temperatures can change quickly in the Teton Range. Check forecasts and be prepared for cold temperatures, especially at higher elevations. Weather forecasts for Jackson, Wyoming, or Moose, Wyoming, (the closest towns) may not reflect conditions at higher elevations. Check with a park ranger when you pick up your permit for more accurate information.

Bears: Black and grizzly bears live in Grand Teton National Park. Carry bear spray and know how to use it. Backcountry campers are required to use an Interagency Grizzly Bear Committee approved canister for storing food, toiletries, and garbage. (Bonus: They also protect against rodents!) 

Water: Water is available from the many lakes and mountain streams. Treat all water with portable water filters, chemical methods, or by boiling. Assume all untreated water contains harmful organisms.

Difficulty: The route described should only be attempted by experienced hikers. Steep climbs and changes in altitude could negatively impact hiking endurance and overall physical health. Prepare yourself with good physical conditioning and basic first aid staples such as ibuprofen, blister care, and electrolytes.

Shorter Options: Listen to your body and take one of the cutoffs described above if needed.

Additional Teton Loop Resources

Backcountry Camping – Grand Teton National Park (website)

Backcountry Camping – Grand Teton National Park (pdf)

Backcountry Permits –Recreation.gov (website)

Inger Appanaitis is a modern-day Viking leading solo expeditions through the Pacific and Mountain West regions. Despite growing up on the Southern Oregon Coast, she thrives in the alpine! Some of her favorite areas to explore are the Eastern Sierra, San Juan Mountains, and the Northern Rockies (Beartooths, Sawtooths, Tetons, and Winds…oh my!). Follow along for dogs, training, and trails @ingerfied

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Popular as a cycling route but also prime for backpacking, the Maah Daah Hey Trail is a 144-mile point-to-point route across the badlands and prairies of western North Dakota. It passes through Theodore Roosevelt National Park and features stark landscapes, abundant wildlife, and unique geological formations. 

Region: Plains Midwest (North Dakota)

Length: 144 miles (10-14 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• Summer and winter conditions tend to be extreme, best to hike in the shoulder seasons.  
• The trail is moderately graded with a moderate amount of climbing.
• Lots of wind and sun exposure with little shelter or shade.

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Water is scarce, water boxes can be used to cache ahead of time if desired.
• Both termini are remote though a shuttle service is available.
• Trail is well marked and maintained.
• Permit not required.

Season: Late spring, early or late summer, fall

Elevation: 1,978 – 2,940 feet
Total Elevation Change: (South to North) +16,149 feet, -16,710 feet

Hiking the Maah Daah Hey Trail

The Maah Daah Hey Trail winds through western North Dakota, connecting the north and south units of Theodore Roosevelt National Park. Well known in the mountain biking community as one of the nation’s premiere stretches of single track, it is still relatively unknown in the backpacking world. For those willing to travel to this remote location, manage potentially long water carries, and brave an often unforgiving landscape, this trail has a lot to offer for backpackers as well as those traveling by bike or horseback. 

The Maah Daah Hey Trail offers hikers a unique opportunity to travel through remote landscapes in nearly complete solitude while remaining on a well-maintained and well-marked trail. Rustic campgrounds are located roughly every 20 miles along the trail and have both potable water and latrines. The town of Medora is located one-third of the way along the trail and can serve as a resupply point. It also provides opportunities for food and recreation before or after your hike. 

Hikable in 10 to 14 days, the Maah Daah Hey Trail makes a good intermediate hike. Because of the scarce water, the amount of exposure, and the potentially extreme temperatures, I would not recommend this trail to beginners. For those with some experience, it is not particularly strenuous or demanding. 

How to get to the Maah Daah Hey Trail 

Nearest City: Dickinson, North Dakota (40 minutes)

Dickinson has the nearest airport and is a 40-minute drive from the closest town of Medora, around two hours from either terminus. Bismarck, ND, has a slightly larger airport and is an additional 1.5 hours away. 

Both termini, CCC Campground in the north and Burning Coal Vein campground in the south, are easily accessible on mostly paved roads. Other campgrounds and trailheads along the Maah Daah Hey are more difficult to reach. 

There is a shuttle service offered by Dakota Cyclery in Medora. As the name suggests, they primarily cater to mountain bikers but they are happy to accommodate hikers as well. Cost for a one-way shuttle from Medora (for up to four people) people is $250. Vehicles can be left at the shop. 

Keep in mind that if you plan on using the designated water boxes to cache water for yourself, caching will take between a half and a full day. 

When to Hike the Maah Daah Hey Trail

The wells at the campgrounds are turned on each year in May. It is not recommended that you hike when the wells are not in service, as they are the only reliable sources of water on trail. If you are hiking before Memorial Day, it would be a good idea to call ahead and make sure the water is on before you go. The best time to hike this trail is within relatively narrow windows in late spring or early fall. Winters are prohibitively harsh and the town of Medora mostly shuts down in the off-season. Summers get surprisingly hot in the Badlands: it is not uncommon for temperatures to reach 100 degrees Fahrenheit. 

If you choose to hike in the spring, be aware that when it rains the bentonite clay in the Badlands becomes a real mess. Things tend to dry out quickly and it is recommended that you refrain from tearing up the trail by waiting until things dry if it becomes too muddy. Ticks are often abundant in the spring but the species in the area do not carry Lyme disease. 

The Maah Daah Hey Trail Terrain 

Most hikers will average between 1,500 and 2,500 feet of elevation gain per day on this trail. There are some steep and extended climbs but the trail was built with bikes and horses in mind so it tends to be nicely graded. While often dry and dusty, the clay that makes up the Badland formations becomes sticky, slippery, and difficult to traverse when it does rain.

Maah Daah Hey Trail Logistics: Permits, Camping, Resupply and Water

Permits: A permit is not required to hike this trail and camping permits are only required within the Theodore Roosevelt National Park boundary. I did not camp within the park, but make sure you call ahead if you plan on setting up camp within national park boundaries.

Camping: Many people will choose to camp at the primitive campgrounds along the trail, as they are the only reliable sources of water beyond what you cache yourself. They are reasonably priced at $10 per night and are equipped with a hand pump for water and a pit toilet. For those who prefer dispersed camping, there are plenty of opportunities in the national grassland. Make sure to pay close attention to your map, however, as the trail does pass through private and state land where camping is prohibited. 

Resupply: Medora is located one-third of the way along the trail. It is about 1.5 miles into town along a paved bike path. Resupply options are fairly limited but there is a small general store and a few restaurants. Hours can be limited so you may want to call ahead. If you are utilizing the shuttle service, you also have the option to leave a box in your vehicle or at Dakota Cyclery. Again, just make sure they will be open when you plan to pick it up.  

Water: Procuring water is the most challenging aspect of the Maah Daah Hey Trail and requires that you have a plan before starting. If you are confident hiking 20 miles or more between water sources, the trail can be done with only a single water cache. The cache is easily accessible and on the way to the southern terminus, so there is really no reason not to utilize it.

If that distance is outside your comfort zone, you will need to cache more water ahead of time. There are designated water boxes provided for this purpose along the way. Make sure to label your water with your name and the latest possible date you would plan to use it. “Expired” water can sometimes be found in the cache boxes and is free for the taking, however, you should not rely on it. Some of the water boxes are very remote and seldom used. 

Waterbox Locations (Mile markers run south to north)

Besides the water caches, hand pumps at the campgrounds are the only other reliable source of drinking water. The water from the pump is technically potable but tends to be very cloudy. If you are picky about such things you might consider filtering it. There are a few stream and river crossings but they are all drainages that come from the Badlands, and we don’t recommend drinking from them even after filtering. They apparently have high mineral/metal content and tend to clog filters with sediment. They also aren’t conveniently located so I didn’t bother. I did filter out of a few cattle tanks near the north end of the trail, but they are inconsistent.  

Know Before You Go

Plentiful wildlife: Bison, wild horses (in TRNP), pronghorn, mule deer, prairie dogs, prairie rattlesnakes, and bull snakes can all be found along this trail. You will also encounter plenty of cattle grazing on the national grassland and private property. Be aware of your surroundings and give the wildlife plenty of space (especially the bison and rattlesnakes).  

Have a plan for drinking water! It is hard to overstate the importance of this as it is the most challenging aspect of the trail. If you plan on hiking before Memorial Day, call ahead and make sure the water pumps have been turned on. 

Check the water levels before attempting to cross the Little Missouri River: The trail crosses the Little Missouri twice (Sully Creek and Elkhorn). The water levels are typically fine for crossing but it can be impassable in the spring or after heavy rains. Check USGS or download RiverApp and search for “Little Missouri River (ND).  

Resources 

Dakota Cyclery – Shuttle Service

Guide Book

Trail Maps

The Maah Daah Hey Trail Association 

bikepacking.com 

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Granite Peak is a stunning mountain nestled in the Beartooth Mountains of South Central Montana. The peak is the highest point in the state at 12,799 feet. The standard approach is accessed via an out-and-back route starting at the popular West Rosebud Trailhead to Mystic Lake.

Region: Mountain West (Custer Gallatin National Forest, Montana)
Distance: 25 miles (round trip)
Season: Summer
Total elevation gain: 6,300 feet

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Steep hiking and scrambling at high elevation
• Class 4 climbing, with possible class 5 moves
• Relentless loose talus/rock fields

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate 

• No permit needed
• Water on route 
• Navigation skills necessary

Hiking the West Rosebud/Phantom Creek Trail to Granite Peak

The West Rosebud Trail is a highly approachable 3-mile section of this hike, on one of the most popular trails in Montana. The West Rosebud Trail begins at the power plant, then ascends through the forest to a rocky overlook before descending to Mystic Lake. Once at the lake, continue for another ½ mile before turning left onto the Phantom Creek Trail, marked with a wooden sign. 

If you read any other information for this trail, this is where you will start to encounter mentions of the “Switchbacks from Hell.” When first reading that name, I was prepared for a heinous sloped scree field. It turns out this is not the case at all,  and if I named this section, I would have called it “Just a Lot of Switchbacks, but it’s Actually Quite Pleasant.”

You will gain nearly 3,000 feet in around two miles, but you will do so on a level and well-maintained trail while bearing witness to a gorgeous, postcard-worthy scene as you rise above the lake, and eventually above treeline. (Pro tip: If you get bored, start counting the switchbacks with fun names, as I did. I counted 28 and named each one. E.g., 10 is Bien, 17: Yas Kween, 24: Just a few more!) 

Once you pass the switchbacks, you can gain the Froze to Death (FTD) plateau. There are multiple ways to do this, but there is a worn path marking a popular exit from the Phantom Creek Trail just past the switchbacks. This path will end shortly, and no dedicated trail exists from this point onward. Here is a good place to start using your navigation tools. I recommend using a GPX track on a mapping platform (I use Gaia, but OnX is another good option) to guide your path.

While the plateau has some visual landmarks and cairns, it can be easy to get turned around. Be sure to stay right of the gravelly peaks, including Froze to Death Peak, while you traverse the plateau. You will find water from snowmelt along the plateau as you continue on toward the Tempest/Granite area. The FTD plateau will not be the relief you are seeking from the switchbacks, as you continue to gain significant elevation as you inch closer to Granite. Parties that choose to do Granite in three or more days will camp along this first section of the plateau. Look for built windbreaks in a semi-protected natural dip in the plateau.

As you approach the Tempest mountain area, you will see a crest with a large cairn. The descent after this crest is the beginning of the Granite climbing approach. There are no comfortable camping locations past this point unless you want to snuggle with loose rock on a steep slope. Instead, there will be a large rock wind shelter area near the crest. This is your best location for camping the night before the summit as it provides the best launching point for the traverse to the Tempest/Granite saddle and to Granite Peak.

Note: If you or anyone in your party is not prepared to climb Granite, Tempest Mountain is highly attainable and walkable from this location. This non-technical peak is just 400 feet lower than Granite and will offer incredible views of the peak and surrounding wilderness. Some folks will camp lower than the crest; if you do, be sure to mark your location so you can easily find it again after your summit, and skip spending 1.5 hours wandering the homogeneous surface of the plateau looking for your gear (no, not speaking from experience, why would you ask?).

On your summit day, you will top the crest, and descend/traverse toward the saddle between Tempest and Granite. There is a faint trail marked by cairns through 3rd and 4th class terrain. At the saddle, you will cross the saddle ridge and continue to follow a faint climber’s trail toward the summit. Depending on conditions and snow, you can also forgo the trail to scramble the saddle ridge here—continuous 4th-class scrambling on blocky granite. The climber’s trail below the ridge and climbers left is much faster if open.

Continue on this trail until you can see the snow bridge, a narrow area before several 4th-class chimneys. Late season, this will be a loose, gravelly saddle. Take a minute here to plan your route across the snow bridge and through the chimney systems. You will pass the first rappel anchors as you navigate the chimneys toward a notch, staying left of the rock with an “X” feature, clearly visible before crossing the snow bridge. Once past the notch, you will downclimb a bit and be able to view the final summit face.

Start your final ascent near a large boulder with a horizontal crack scrambling up 4th class between two chimney features. You will see rappel stations on these pitches as well. Continue left along an exposed bouldery ledge and continue to a conspicuous keyhole feature near the top of the face. Climb LEFT of the keyhole to avoid 5th class moves, and scramble the last few blocky moves to the summit. Sign the register and lie on the summit block like the little sun lizard that you are (or cloud lizard, or snow lizard, or sleet lizard, depending on conditions). 

Descent: Put that thing down, flip it, and reverse it! Be sure to pay close attention (and look behind you) to notable features as you climb up to help speed up your descent. There are cairns marking several “paths,” and it’s easy to take a different way down. I would recommend a 60- or 70-meter rope to avoid multiple rappels on the face section. Be sure to inspect each anchor and either avoid it or add additional slings/rap rings if it looks unsafe/chewed up. If you are comfortable downclimbing these sections, this will be much faster than rappels. 

EDITORS NOTE: We mention it several times in this article, but it bears repeating here as well—this is a highly technical route that requires, at minimum, advanced scrambling skills, and is probably best suited to hikers with climbing, mountaineering, and off-trail navigational skills. You’ve been warned.

Permits: No permit needed.

Getting to Granite Peak via West Rosebud Trailhead

Nearest City: Red Lodge, Montana (43 miles)

The West Rosebud Trailhead is accessible by car, and you are able to park overnight or for several nights at the designated parking lot. Note as of 9/18/2022: Due to flooding in the area, the original trailhead access is closed until bridges can be restored. Parking is 0.65 miles before the trailhead, and access by foot is permitted.

When to hike Granite Peak via West Rosebud Trailhead

Mid to late summer is the best time to attempt this peak. While attempts have been made year-round, please consider your abilities as a mountaineer or alpinist if attempting to bag this peak in any other season. There is a small snow bridge that usually remains in until the end of the summer, so check current conditions to determine what gear you may need. Weather is always a factor on the exposed plateau and peak, so be prepared with sufficient rain gear and warm/dry layers. A wind layer is also recommended.

Granite Peak via West Rosebud Trailhead Terrain 

West Rosebud Trail: Maintained and well-marked trail starting at the power plant. Dirt and rocky trail through forest along the creek. 

Phantom Creek: Well-traveled trail, mostly level with dirt and gravel. 

Froze to Death Plateau: Mixed rock and vegetated tundra. Uneven, with no clear trail. 

Climber’s Trail to Summit: Relentless talus, some loose granite scrambling, and class 4 (possibly low 5th class) granite face to the summit. 

Logistics for Granite Peak via West Rosebud Trailhead

Resupply: No resupply is possible on this route. Only self-supported travel in this zone unless you’re friends with a helicopter pilot.

Camping and Permits: No permits are necessary. There are official campsites at Mystic Lake, then dispersed camping on the plateau, including built-up windbreaks. It is highly recommended to camp at the windbreaks right before cresting to the saddle of Tempest Peak and Granite Peak. This will give you a great launching point for your summit bid.

What Type of Land: Land acknowledgement: These recreation trails are on native Apsáalooke (Crow) lands. 

Custer Gallatin National Forest: West Rosebud Trail to Mystic Lake

Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness: Phantom Creek Trail, Froze to Death Plateau, and Granite Summit

Curious about the difference between wilderness area and national forest designations? Check out this article from Nature. 

Water: No water from the 4th switchback on Phantom Creek Trail to the FTD plateau.

Water from snowmelt consistently on FTD plateau, but always check local information if going late season.

Special Gear: The technicality of climbing Granite Peak depends on the conditions and the amount of experience as a hiker or mountaineer. In the early seasons, be sure to bring crampons and an ice axe, as the snow bridge will likely still be in. Snow travel skills are necessary. 

For all seasons, bring rain gear, layers, a helmet, and shoes with high-friction rubber (approach shoes recommended).

Consider bringing a rope, harness, lockers, belay device, prusik, extra webbing, and even a few pieces of protection. If you are an avid climber and mountaineer and are comfortable pulling (and downclimbing) lower 5th-class moves in highly exposed terrain, this gear may not be necessary. Consider the skills and comfort level of your whole crew before ditching extra gear.

Know Before You Go

• This route, while highly attainable, should not be underestimated. The approach is gnarly. The plateau is exposed, and afternoon storms are frequent.
•  Granite summit bids are the reason for multiple search and rescue calls each summer. Don’t be caught unprepared—this is not a walk-up. Be prepared to navigate on the plateau in any conditions. Bring a SPOT or InReach as an emergency backup. 
• There are cairns everywhere on the plateau and summit trails. DO NOT rely solely on cairns to navigate, as there are multiple trails. Be thoughtful in considering your route.
• This is grizzly bear and mountain goat country. Bring bear spray and supplies to hang a bear bag if camping low. Beware of mountain goats while camping on the plateau, as they like to lick the salt from urine. Make sure to urinate a safe distance from your campsite as they will be sure to pay you(r pee) a visit. 

Resources

• Granite Peak Summit Post page  for detailed climbing ascent beta and photos
• Beartooth Publishing: Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness Map
• Roscoe’s Grizzly Bar for a post-summit burger

Dawn Brintnall is a retired old sea captain, outdoor enthusiast, and writer living in Red Lodge, Montana. Her favorite activities include battling ye olde salty sea, climbing, and mountain biking. Usually, you can find her tutoring disadvantaged dolphins or walking around muttering about “gold in them hills.” 

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The Mid-State Trail is a 331-mile, orange-blazed footpath traversing some of Pennsylvania’s wildest landscapes from the Maryland border to the New York border. It can be hiked in 3-4 weeks and is part of the Great Eastern Trail, an alternative to the Appalachian Trail.

Region: Mid-Atlantic (Pennsylvania)
Distance: 331 miles
Season: Four-season with proper gear and skills. Spring, summer, and fall recommended.
Total Elevation Gain: 52,803 feet

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• Gravel forest roads, bike paths, long flat stretches
• Boulder fields and rocky trail, steep ascents and descents
• Thick brush and tall grass with footpath nonexistent or obscured

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• The MST passes through multiple well-spaced towns (little hitching required)
• FarOut app for navigation through poorly maintained sections
• Camping is illegal on Pennsylvania state game lands, making some sections tough logistically and financially
• Northern and southern termini are country roads with no place to leave a car

Season: Fall, spring, summer. Winter with proper gear and skills.

Hiking the Mid-State Trail

The Mid-State Trail is a lightly traveled footpath bisecting Pennsylvania south to north and is often touted as one of the state’s best-kept secrets. It traverses four geographically distinct regions and yields new and interesting terrain as hikers cross into each one. Many thru-hikers are able to complete the trail in 3-4 weeks, making it a good hike for extended time off. It is part of the longer Great Eastern Trail, an alternative to the Appalachian Trail. 

The Mid-State Trail is not for those searching for a social experience or frequent jaw-dropping views. Hikers looking to complete this trail should bring a buddy or enjoy solitude. While the trail is often close to civilization, towns are highly rural, giving the trail a remote feel that the Appalachian Trail lacks farther east. 

The Mid-State Trail alternates moderate walking on forest roads with tougher hiking on steep inclines and declines and sharp, rocky ridgelines. The many small points of interest on this trail—historical remnants, quiet and scenic state parks, and ecologically unique areas—keep hikers’ interest along the Mid-State Trail. 

Getting to the Mid-State Trail

Southern Terminus

Nearest City: Cumberland, Maryland. ~17 miles from the trail 

Getting to the Southern Terminus: 

The southern terminus is at the Pennsylvania/Maryland border at the intersection of Black Valley Road and Gap Road. The nearest parking is a half mile up the road at Solid Wood Floors and Moulding (814-458-2032), which allows hikers to park across the street. 

A Greyhound bus also runs to Cumberland. From here, a taxi to Flintstone, Maryland, and a 2-mile road walk or hitch could take hikers to the border to start the hike. 

My dad was kind enough to drop my hiking partner and me at the border on Gap Road. This is the simplest option, but people sometimes offer shuttles on the Mid-State Trail Facebook group, and finding a suitable ride here is not out of the question. 

Getting to the Northern Terminus

Nearest City: Corning, New York, ~16 miles from the trail

The northern terminus is at the intersection of Heffner Hollow Road and State Line Road on the Pennsylvania/New York border. There is no parking here. 

There is no public transport to the terminus, so finding a shuttle or getting a ride will be the best option. The Crystal Hills Trail continues north from the border with orange blazes. 

When to Hike the Mid-State Trail

The Mid-State Trail can potentially be hiked in all four seasons. Spring brings clouds of mosquitoes and overgrown trail, but water will be plentiful. Fall and later summer will have less of all of these, but will have sweltering temperatures and high humidity. Pennsylvania winters are typically milder than those in the taller mountains of the Southeast and New England; however, microspikes, snowshoes, gaiters, and winter backpacking experience will all be necessary to hike this trail in the colder months. Frequent, bright orange blazes make the footpath easy to find in the snow. 

Mid-State Trail Terrain

The Mid-State Trail varies between highly mountainous and rocky terrain with steep ascents and descents to road walks along country lanes and isolated forest roads. Some small sections in the Everett region lack a footpath entirely and will have hikers wading through tall brush, though they are mostly well-blazed and not difficult to follow. 

Logistics on the Mid-State Trail

Resupply: While the towns along the Mid-State Trail are mostly small (population > 3,000), Dollar General and similar stores are not difficult to find. If you have a special diet or want more variety, most towns also have post offices that will hold packages for hikers. 

Many resupply points along the MST do not require hitchhiking, with the exception of some larger towns, such as State College and Lock Haven. 

Everett: NOBO Mile 35.4

The trail runs through the town of Everett, which has a Foodliner (full grocery store) and a Sheetz convenience store, as well as a laundromat, pharmacy, and several restaurants. The lean-to in Tenley Park is the last legal camping northbound for 50 miles. 

Post office info: 

814-652-2525

Monday to Friday, 8:30 a.m. to 4:45 p.m.; Saturday, 9 a.m. to 11:30 a.m.; Sunday, closed

Williamsburg: NOBO Mile 80.2

The trail runs through Williamsburg, which has a Dollar General, lodging (highly recommend the Blue Lantern B&B – 814-937-1825), a laundromat, and a pizza restaurant. 

Post office info:

814-832-3214

Monday to Friday, 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.; Saturday, 8:30 a.m. to noon; Sunday, closed

State College: NOBO Mile 115

Getting to State College is more logistically challenging than most towns along the MST, but the town will have the most amenities, including many options for restaurants, lodging, and resupply. From the Hubler Gap vista, take the Musser Gap Trail to the Musser Gap parking lot, and then the Musser Gap Greenway to the bus stop at The Yards at Old State (apartment complex), about a 3-mile walk. The CATA bus runs Monday to Saturday and the fare as of 2022 is $2.20. https://catabus.com/ for most up-to-date fares and routes. Uber and Lyft should also be abundant in the area. 

Post office info: 

814-238-2435

Monday to Friday, 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Saturday, 8 a.m. to noon; Sunday, closed

Lock Haven: NOBO Mile 207.9

Hitchhiking or walking west from Route 150 will take you to Lock Haven, which boasts more amenities than neighboring McElhattan or Woolrich, both of which are much closer to the trail. Like State College, Lock Haven is a college town with lodging, restaurants, a town-wide bus service, laundry, and a full grocery. 

Post office info

570-748-8055 

Monday to Friday, 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m. to noon; Sunday, closed

Camping: The Mid-State Trail traverses many different types of public lands. On state forest lands, impact sites are spaced approximately every 10 miles, and many are marked on the FarOut app. About 70 miles of trail in the southern half traverses state game lands, where it is illegal to camp, and off-trail lodging arrangements must be made. Some options to work around this include: 

Tenley Park Shelter: NOBO Mile 35.4

Hikers may stay for free at this three-sided lean-to in Tenley Park on the edge of the town of Everett. Call the Everett Borough at 814-652-9202 to get permission to camp. 

Loysburg Campground: NOBO Mile 50.9

0.2 miles off-trail to an RV campground with a fee of $20 per night. Bathroom amenities and water access are reported to be sporadic. 

Our Place Guesthouse in Martinsburg: NOBO Mile 64.1

Call 814-505-9006 to reserve a room. Pickup point is the state game lands parking lot next to Route 164, 0.6 miles south of the highway crossing. 

Williamsburg: NOBO Mile 80

Dollar General and post office for resupply, Blue Lantern B&B for lodging. Beginning of the Lower Rail Trail section of the MST, which has three-sided lean-tos and water en route. 

Water: While the Mid-State Trail often traverses ridgetops, it dips into plenty of stream valleys, towns, and state parks, and passes by frequent springs. The State College region is the only exception. It traverses the Tussey ridge, where water can be scarce in any season, and a long water carry or a climb down off the ridgetop may be necessary to access water. 

Special Gear: While it may be tempting to hike in shorts in the heat of spring and summer, long pants tucked into long socks come highly recommended–preferably treated with Permethrin. Many sections of the MST are grown in with brush (some of it prickly) and the trail hosts scores of ticks. A sturdy pair of tweezers is also recommended to remove any ticks. 

Know Before You Go

• There is no camping on state game lands. Hikers should plan around this and note that certain sections of trail on private land may be closed during the hunting season. Check the Mid-State Trail Association’s website, Facebook group, or MST’s guide in the FarOut app for the most updated information.
• Ticks abound on the MST. Brightly colored socks and/or gaiters may help you find the dark-colored bloodsuckers crawling before they bite. Permethrin, long pants, and long sleeves are recommended.
• Supply chain issues are preventing the MSTA from printing the latest maps; the FarOut app is the most current option as of this writing. The trail has also undergone several reroutes in the past year, which the MSTA keeps updated in the app.
• Bicycles are not allowed on most parts of MST, except where the route is shared with multi-use paths, such as the Lower Rail Trail.
• The Mid-State Trail was built by a Penn State professor who valued the metric system over the imperial system. All trail signs and measurements on official MST maps are in kilometers and meters.

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The Waterville Valley Skyline Loop is a challenging New Hampshire hike, covering 15 trails and nine peaks. The entire loop is roughly 34 miles long and has about 10,150 feet of elevation gain. This is not for the faint of heart, but the rewards are worth the effort.

Region: New England (White Mountain National Forest, New Hampshire)
Distance: 34 miles, 2-4 days

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Weather changes in the White Mountains must be monitored
• Rocky climbs for the ascents of Mt. Tecumseh, Mt. Osceola, East Osceola and North Tripyramid.  
• The slides on North and South Tripyramid should be navigated with care only in dry conditions.
• Cumulative elevation makes for near continuous climbing

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

• Livermore Trailhead provides a perfect spot for either a one-day trip or multi-day trip. Using a car as a midpoint allows hikers to carry less gear if they desire.
• No resupply options – pack what you need in your car.
• No permit required; however, parking must be paid for at Livermore Trailhead if you do not have a White Mountain National Forest parking permit ($5/day at the iron ranger).

Season: Summer, early fall

Elevation (average): ~2,500 feet
Total Elevation Gain: ~10,150 feet

Hiking the Waterville Valley Skyline Loop

The Waterville Valley Skyline Loop is not comprised of new trails; in fact many of them can be found in the Appalachian Mountain Club White Mountain Guide.  The Loop strings together trails from the AMC guide, Waterville Valley cross-country ski routes, and Tripoli Road.  The intention of the established loop is to bring hikers to the Waterville Valley area, a less popular area than Franconia Ridge or the Pemigewasset Wilderness. This area also doesn’t get as much attention from hikers as the Presidentials to the northeast.  While this is a quiet, desirable feature of these trails and mountains, the community is eager to share it with others.

I have hiked the Skyline Loop in a variety of ways. I did this intentionally so I could experience it from both the overnight hiker and day hiker perspective. This loop is traditionally hiked clockwise starting with Mt. Tecumseh. I never hike without checking the mountain weather forecast from a variety of sources, including the National Weather Service Recreational Report for higher summits. Since these peaks are in the 4,000-foot ballpark, this forecasting is reliable. That said, prepare for all weather conditions in the Whites regardless of season. My kit includes rain layers, warm layers, hat, and gloves … even in the summer. 

Overnight Trip on the Waterville Valley Skyline Loop

I gathered a few friends for a 20-mile backpacking trip of the west loop. The weather forecast was for the 60s during the day and high 40s at night.  We started at the Livermore Trailhead and headed to Mt. Tecumseh by taking the Pipeline Trail to the Waterville Valley Resort and the location of the Mt. Tecumseh Trailhead.  This mountain is frequently hiked.  The trailhead has received a lot of work over the years, which includes the installation of the longest set of stairs I have ever seen.  We summited, had a snack and headed down toward Tripoli Road.  We were banking on refilling our water at the brook near the Tecumseh Trailhead at Tripoli Road and were rewarded with a flowing stream, despite dry conditions.  We loaded up knowing water would be scarce until the Greeley Ponds area.

We headed east on Tripoli Road for just over a one-mile dirt road walk.  I was surprised to pass open campsites along the road on this busy Saturday in August.  These are first-come, first-serve spots that would make a great camping option for this area if you don’t want to deal with White Mountain National Forest Backcountry Camping Rules. If you plan on staying on Tripoli Road, make sure you check in with the caretaker and pay the fee. This area can be challenging to tent camp due to the terrain. Hammock campers will have an easier time setting up and following the strict rules. Other camping options include Osceola Vista Campground on Tripoli Road. This campground has a combination of reservable and first-come, first-serve sites. The same goes for Waterville Campground, a short drive from this area.

Our hike up Mt. Osceola was gradual and comfortable with an overnight pack. The open summit is 2.9 miles from the trailhead and easily one of the best vistas on this hike. We took some time for a snack before heading over to East Osceola.  You will descend the famous chimney between the peaks.  On this day, we chose the bypass because we had overnight packs.  We made short work of this section and summited East Osceola quickly.  This treed-in summit has a cairn to signify the top.

The descent down the Mt. Osceola trail to the Greeley Ponds Trail is steep and unrelenting for just over a mile—in some spots the grade is over 25%. The trail eases up substantially as you come into the Greeley Ponds Scenic Area.  We hooked a right onto the Greeley Ponds Trail looking for flowing water. We passed by the Greeley Ponds, considering filtering from here but decided to take our chances on hitting flowing water at Mad River. We were thrilled to see the water was flowing nicely a few tenths of a mile south of Lower Greeley Pond. We stocked up for the night and set to work locating our camping location for the night.  We set up off the Greeley Ponds Trail, in keeping with backcountry camping principles, a few miles from the Livermore Trailhead, making for an easy walk out in the morning and a total of 20 miles for the west side of the Skyline Loop.

Tripyramids

There is such versatility with this loop. Livermore Trailhead makes a perfect spot for resupply if you plan on doing this in two-plus days. You can also hike part of the loop from this lot. The Tripyramids are a staple for any Northeast hiker checking off their 48 4,000-footers. The Skyline Loop recommends use of the Scaur Trail, giving hikers a gentle ascent to access North Tripyramid.  If you are feeling adventurous, take the detour and do the North Slide.  Be prepared for hand-over-hand climbing and tricky rock wall navigation.  You will be rewarding with breathtaking views and a badge of honor.  DO NOT attempt North Slide if it’s raining or the slabs have a chance of being wet.  Also, do not go down North Slide.  To follow the loop on the map, go up Scaur Ridge Trail to North Tripyramid, travel across the relatively tame and treed ridge walk and down the South Slide.  South Slide has a fair amount of scree, but it is manageable and short.

Kettle’s Path, Irene’s Path, Old Skidder Trail and Snows Mountain

I had not seen this section of the trail before preparing to write this article, and I will certainly go back. I parked at Livermore Trailhead on a beautiful Saturday, and I was surprised to not be sharing these sections of trail with another soul. I took all side trail options, which gave me a breathtaking view of Waterville Valley from the Scaur. I also visited the Flume Spur off the intersection of Irene’s Path and Old Skidder Trail. The water must rage here in spring and the rock chimney is worth checking out. Old Skidder Trail is not used much, so just a faint footpath remains. This entire area is connected by a system of “roads.” Essentially these are carriage roads used for mountain biking and cross-country skiing.  After exploring these sections, I filtered water from Slide Brook and took the carriage road over to get on the Snows Mountain Trail, then hiked toward Snows Mountain clockwise. My ascent was nearly 1,000 feet, and the summit has an overgrown outlook, but if you continue clockwise on your descent, you will come to a second outlook over Waterville Valley.  Heading down this way was much tamer.

How to get to the Waterville Valley Skyline Loop

Nearest Town: Waterville Valley

Located off Tripoli Road, Livermore Trailhead is prime for accessing this area.  Waterville Valley is a quaint town, with coffee shops and a country club.  The mountains and skiing are a major draw in this area.  Note: Tripoli Road is closed in the winter, so Livermore Trailhead may be accessed through the village of Waterville Valley.

When to Hike the Waterville Valley Skyline Loop

Fair weather hikers will want to stick to the warmer months of late May through early October.  Year-round hikers, with proper gear, including snowshoes and microspikes, will be able to enjoy some of these trails.  Enjoyment in the winter is limited by your interest in properly breaking trail in snowshoes, and experience is necessary. Please do not walk down the middle of the groomed cross-country trails in the winter!  

In clear weather, hikers will be rewarded with amazing views of the Whites.  As always, check the weather forecast (see below) and turn around if conditions deteriorate beyond your ability to stay safe. 

Waterville Valley Skyline Loop Terrain 

The bulk of this loop is classic White Mountain National Forest terrain.  Rocks, roots, and slabs dot most of the trails. The cross-country trails are a nice break on the legs. I always say the Whites are not for the faint of heart, so be prepared to work for all of your elevation gain, especially with a heavy pack.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water and Gear

Permits:  The Waterville Valley Skyline Loop is located in the White Mountain National Forest.  A permit for parking can be obtained ahead of time.  Otherwise, pay the $5 at the Livermore Trailhead parking lot.  The same goes for other lots located on this loop and managed by the WMNF.

Camping: While camping is permitted, you must follow White Mountain National Forest Backcountry Camping Rules. The terrain here is brutal for tent camping. Rocks and roots making finding a flat spot nearly impossible. Experienced backpackers may find a place to camp around 2,500 feet in some places.  Hammock campers will do best on this loop.  Established camping areas in close proximity include:

Tripoli Road Camping Area. Fee required and may be sold out early in the day in the summer.

Osceola Vista Campground

Waterville Campground

Water: Water is plentiful despite the moderate drought in this area in 2022.  While it looks clean and is flowing, filter or treat it! I carried 1.5 liters most of the time, filling up with extra at Mad River for the overnight.  You will not find water up high (over 2,000 feet in most places), so grab water when you can. 

Special Gear: 

• Poles are invaluable in this terrain
• Paper map and Gaia GPS with downloaded maps.
• Ten Essentials for Hiking

Know Before You Go

Waterville Valley Recreation Department did a great job stringing together existing trails to create an adventure for day hikers and backpackers alike. I was impressed with how quiet the eastern side of the trail was (with the exception of the Tripyramids). I love the versatility of the trail system in that it provides day and overnight options if you plan well.  

Resources

Waterville Valley Skyline Loop: Information and map 

White Mountain National Forest Camping 

National Weather Service Recreational Report: For the White Mountains

Hiker friendly campgrounds:

Osceola Vista Campground 

Waterville Campground

Tripoli Road Camping Area

Appalachian Mountain Club White Mountain Guide and maps

Gaia GPS

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The Sioux-Hustler trail is a 34-mile loop in northern Minnesota. This trail is within the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW). It features beaver dam crossings, two waterfalls, and plentiful water sources.

Region: Great Lakes Midwest (Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, Superior National Forest, Minnesota)
Length: 34 miles (3-4 days)
Season: Late Spring, Late Summer, Early Fall
Total Elevation Gain: 3,000 feet

Physical Difficulty: Easy

• Rocky and rooty terrain
• Beaver dam crossings
• A few steep but short climbs and descents

Logistical Difficulty: High

• Route not marked
• Permit required
• Remote trailhead

Hiking the Sioux Hustler Trail

The Sioux-Hustler Trail is a great option for intermediate backpackers. The footpath crosses over beaver dams, features two waterfalls, and passes many water sources.

Three friends and I backpacked this loop clockwise in September 2020. Our first night was near the Devil’s Cascade waterfall and subsequent nights were on the shores of Emerald and Shell Lakes. We shared a campsite one night with two smaller backpacking parties.

We heard wolves most nights. We followed a portage to Loon Lake, where we noted moose tracks on the shoreline and said hello to Canada. Occasional fallen trees and six hours of rain made for a challenging second day.

I lost cell service about 30 minutes before arriving at the trailhead. The footpath was not blazed on trees, which caused occasional navigation challenges; cairns and cut logs helped confirm the correct path. There were also beaver dam crossings (a misstep on one ended in knee-deep mud).

Resupply is not an option, as this trail is only accessible by boat or foot. This is a shorter route, so resupply shouldn’t be needed.

How to get to the Sioux-Hustler Trail

Nearest City: Orr, Minnesota (38 miles)
Trailhead: Sioux Hustler Hiking Trail

The Sioux-Hustler trail is a lollipop loop. From the trailhead, it’s about six miles by foot to where the loop begins; go left for a clockwise trip or go right for a counterclockwise trip.

The Sioux-Hustler trailhead (BWCAW entry point 15) is 38 miles northeast of Orr, Minnesota, on US Forest Service roads. You can park overnight at the trailhead.

The nearest airports are Duluth and Minneapolis. Orr is about 145 miles north of Duluth and 280 miles north of Minneapolis. Car rentals are available at both airports; shuttle service between Duluth and the trailhead may be an option from some outfitters in Ely. Lodging and camping are available on the way to Orr.

For our trip, we left Minneapolis around 6:30 a.m. on our entry date and started hiking by 12:30 p.m..

When to Hike the Sioux Hustler Trail

The best times to hike this trail are late spring (May to June) and late summer into early fall (August through September).

Spring hikers can expect mud, wet conditions, and some snow well into May. Depending on the year, thaw/refreeze cycles may cause difficult travel on gravel Forest Service roads.

The trail can be hiked in early summer but mosquitoes may take the joy out of it. Ticks are usually the worst in May and June but may be found anytime the temperatures are above freezing.

Depending on the year, trips in late summer and early fall could be impacted by wildfires.

We began our hike in late September 2020. Daytime temperatures reached into the 50s Fahrenheit and overnight temperatures dipped into the upper 30s and 40s. It rained for about six hours on our second day. Fall colors were starting to peak and bugs were not an issue.

It may be possible to hike later than September but be sure to check the forecast and plan accordingly. Depending on the year, early October may see measurable snow and lakes could already be freezing.

Backpacking this route in winter is not advised due to deep snow and extreme temperatures. Some Forest Service roads and trailheads are not accessible in winter.

Sioux-Hustler Trail Terrain 

The trail crosses forested terrain and wetlands. There are beaver dam crossings and occasional fallen trees to navigate.

Sioux-Hustler Trail Permits

Permits are required to enter the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW). 

Overnight trips beginning May 1 to September 30 require quota permits. Quota permits have a fee associated and are sold first-come, first-served. They go on sale the third Wednesday of January each year.

Before reserving a quota permit, you’ll need a recreation.gov account and to know where you will pick up your permit. Here is a list of permit issue stations. I would recommend a station in Duluth or Cook; be sure to confirm hours as some stations may not be open on weekends.

On the BWCAW webpage, click on the “Explore available permits” button in the “Available Permits” section. 

Choose “Overnight Hike” in the filter dropdown and the date you plan to start.

Scroll to the “Sioux-Hustler Trail (OH)” item. Choose your start date in the grid, click the “Book Now” button, and complete your reservation.

Overnight trips in the off-season (October 1 to April 30) require a free, self-issued permit. Complete the form at the trailhead kiosk, leave a copy in the dropbox, and carry the other copy with you.

Logistics: Camping, Land Management, and Route Finding

Camping: Campsites are first-come, first-served and do not need to be shared with other parties. Most campsites are accessible by water and foot; if a site is already occupied, backpackers may be willing to share. To minimize impact, a maximum of 9 people can stay at campsites in the BWCAW; our intended campsite on day two was at maximum with a guided group of backpackers so we pushed on to another site. Campsite spurs are oftent marked with a cairn and/or a wooden marker. Follow LNT principles by trying to stay in established campsites, but if needed, dispersed / stealth camping is allowed for hikers (see page 7 of this handbook).

Land Management: This trail is mostly in a wilderness area on US Forest Service land. There are no amenities at the trailhead. The trail is only accessible by foot or boat and chainsaws are not allowed in the BWCAW, so fallen trees may not be immediately removed after a storm.

Route Finding: I recommend a GPS track or map and compass for this trail. The footpath is not marked, can disappear due to overgrowth, and crosses multiple beaver dams. Cell service was nonexistent. Be aware that the trail intersects with portages, which may or may not show up on certain maps.

Special Gear: I recommend a bug net and treated clothing or other repellent. Ticks and an obnoxious number of mosquitoes will be present, especially in late spring and early summer.

In recent summers, the Superior National Forest has issued orders requiring bear-proof containers. These orders are posted to their website and Facebook page when required, so be sure to check before heading out.

Know Before You Go

Although it isn’t the most physically challenging, I don’t recommend this route for beginners. The trail is not marked and disappears at times. There may be fallen trees to navigate if there have been recent storms and cell service was nonexistent.

Permits are required from May 1 to September 30, so some advance planning is needed, though you don’t need to reserve campsites.

If hiking in the shoulder seasons, be sure to check the forecast; snow may be present well into May and lakes may start freezing over as early as October.

Bear-proof containers may be required if there has been increased black bear activity. Check the Superior National Forest website and Facebook page for updates.

Resources

Sioux-Hustler Trail Permits at recreation.gov

Friends of the Boundary Waters

A list of local outfitters 

Superior National Forest

Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness

Sioux-Hustler Trail

Maps

• Fisher map F-16
• McKenzie maps 12, 13 and 14
• US Forest Service  

Andrea Breitung lives in St. Paul, Minnesota, and is an avid year-round hiker, biker, and camper (yes, even in winter). She started backpacking in 2019 and more recently began dabbling in bikepacking. When she’s not outside, she’s reading, snuggling her dogs, and consuming unhealthy amounts of chocolate.

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