Region: Southwest (Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Utah)

Distance: 11-45 miles (route depending)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• The trail is undefined and often involves walking through water and over deep sand.
• This route involves careful attention to weather to avoid flash flood danger.
• Like many canyon ecosystems, Coyote Gulch requires attention to navigation to avoid accidentally venturing into side canyons.

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Coyote Gulch access lies down Hole-in-the-Rock Road, which is washboarded with possible washouts.
• Permits are required for Coyote Gulch in addition to several canyon-specific regulations. Though permits are currently free and either self-filled-out at the trailheads or picked up at the Escalante Interagency Visitor Center, keep an eye on the latest regulations involving trips in Coyote Gulch. 
• Some route variations require a shuttle between trailheads.
• You have numerous choices on how to approach Coyote Gulch.

Season: Spring / Fall

Elevation Gain: 1,000-2,000 feet

Max Elevation: 4,100 feet

Hiking Coyote Gulch

Coyote Gulch is a tributary canyon of the Escalante River in South-Central Utah running for slightly over 20 miles from the top (near Dry Fork) to the bottom where it meets the Canyon of the Escalante River. Several access points provide a choose-your-own-adventure experience depending on the mileage and challenge you’re looking for. The routes through Coyote Gulch described below travel through some of the finest canyon country ecosystems in Southern Utah, lush with vegetation and wildlife, natural bridges and arches, waterfalls, and cultural sites. These areas necessitate respect in traveling through commensurate with the awe Coyote Gulch views elicit given the fragile resources present.

This guide describes multiple routes to explore Coyote Gulch. Trailheads can be used to access Coyote Gulch as an out-and-back hike or using a shuttle. The longest possible variation would be doing an out-and-back hike from the Dry Fork Trailhead, which would total over 45-miles. The shortest way to access all the most notable features of the canyon is the technical Crack-in-the-Wall to Sneak Route Loop. Trailhead access points and route options are discussed below but Coyote Gulch’s access points and the larger area provide myriad opportunities to find the route that fits what you’re looking for. This guide is not exhaustive on the possible ways to link these access points. Desire to suffer, water levels, or possession of a packraft are all factors that might determine your trip in Coyote Gulch. The author has personally hiked the Crack-in-the-Wall to Sneak Route Loop (both directions, multiple times), the Dry Fork to Crack-in-the-Wall route, the Red Well to Crack-in-the-Wall route, and Hurricane Wash (on its own, out-and-back).

Main Canyon

The lower canyon, beginning near the confluence of Coyote Gulch and Hurricane Wash, involves mixed hiking through sand and the almost constantly flowing main branch of Coyote Gulch, which carved this oasis 900 feet into the sandstone layers above on its course toward the Escalante River. This mixed hiking descends farther into the canyon as the soaring heights of the walls above grow until you reach Jacob Hamblin Arch. The arch is massive and forms a large amphitheater on a bend in the canyon with several large campsites nearby. From there, you can scramble up the loose talus slopes underneath the arch or follow flowing water around the bend to continue down-canyon. The next feature you come across is Coyote Natural Bridge, which forms a massive doorway in the sandstone. Descending farther leads you through more sand, water, and jungles of tamarisk, Gambel’s oak, cottonwoods, willows, horsetail, and other riparian vegetation. 

As you near the Escalante River, Coyote Gulch snakes through large canyon-bottom boulder fields as the waterway cascades toward its terminus. Picturesque waterfalls and sweeping walls above beckon hikers to take their time through this section. This section is where it’s most visible that Coyote Gulch is a dynamic system. Shifting boulders may necessitate Class 3 scrambling to navigate around features. 

Near the bottom of Coyote Gulch, the waterway deepens, and reaching the river beyond requires the most permanent scramble of the primary canyon after the canyon-right turnoff to climb out via Crack-in-the-Wall (described below). The final scramble to the river is fairly obvious and traverses the rock face on canyon-right heading down-canyon. Reaching the river provides the reward of entering the larger Canyon of the Escalante and gazing up at Stevens Arch, one of the largest natural arches in the world. 

Dry Fork

At ~25-miles, Dry Fork to Crack-in-the-Wall is the longest route (not involving an out-and-back) to explore Coyote Gulch and starts at the Dry Fork Trailhead (the BLM recently installed an Upper Dry Fork Trailhead too, complete with a parking area and pit toilets; either can access Coyote Gulch). These trailheads lie approximately 25 miles down Hole-in-the-Rock Road. If you have additional time, the Dry Fork area is popular due to its access to several short slot canyons, including Peekaboo, Spooky, and Brimstone Canyons. Depending on how you access Coyote Gulch from the trailhead(s), you pass directly by the entrances to these side destinations. More information about the slot canyons can be found on the Bureau of Land Management’s website for the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. 

Beyond the slot canyon access, the Dry Fork trail continues into Coyote Gulch. It is aptly named as this part of the route is exposed hiking through deep sand. There is no water in the Dry Fork of Coyote Gulch (reliable water only becomes available after the confluence with Hurricane Wash) and this route is recommended if the goal is only to increase the mileage of your overall trip. Given its relative lack of scenery and length (compared to other routes described), the Dry Fork route remains an unpopular way to access Coyote Gulch. 

Red Well

The Red Well Trailhead sits approximately 30 miles down Hole-in-the-Rock Road in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument and provides access to Coyote Gulch after crossing the boundary into the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area (more information about land designations can be found below). Red Well is a much quicker way to access the main canyon than the previous route and is similar to Hurricane Wash in terrain and mileage. Reliable water becomes more available after the confluence with Hurricane Wash. The Red Well route is roughly 17 miles if exiting at Crack-in-the-Wall.

Hurricane Wash

Hurricane Wash is accessed from a large parking area directly on Hole-in-the-Rock Road in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument 3 miles beyond the turnoff to Red Well. This route is roughly 16 miles if exiting at Crack-in-the-Wall. Reliable water is not available until you enter the main canyon of Coyote Gulch ~5.5 miles from the trailhead. 

Crack-in-the-Wall to Sneak Route Loop

This ~10.5-mile loop from the Crack-in-the-Wall Trailhead along the 40-Mile Ridge spur road is increasing in popularity, though it requires technical consideration for navigating out of the canyon. This route begins at the trailhead and travels across the plateau above Coyote Gulch to Crack-in-the-Wall, a feature above the canyon near where it meets the Escalante River. The route to the canyon edge is well-defined and travels through deep sand. After reaching the Crack-in-the-Wall, scramble down the feature (a narrow fissure in the rock face) to the top of a large sand dune above the canyon. Navigating this feature may necessitate using a rope to lower packs as it is quite narrow and requires Class 3 scrambling. Beyond Crack-in-the-Wall, descend the 700-foot sand dune to Coyote Gulch. 

You enter the canyon near where it meets the Escalante River. From here, tag the river (requires more scrambling, described above) or continue up-canyon toward Jacob Hamblin Arch. Just before reaching the arch (canyon left, traveling up-canyon), you’ll be walking on a bench above the water and the Sneak Route will present itself. The Sneak Route involves a 45-degree friction climb out of the canyon, which may necessitate placing gear (most commonly a rope to act as a handline) as a fall on this Class 4 terrain could lead to a tumble down the sandstone grade back toward the canyon. Those unfamiliar with sandstone friction climbing might prefer to do this route in reverse to make placing a rope more straightforward and descending the Sneak Route rather than ascending it. For those comfortable with this kind of terrain and not placing a rope, it is much easier to climb up the Sneak Route than down. The National Park Service emphasizes that it does not maintain a rope on the Sneak Route and periodically removes them if left by Coyote Gulch hikers. After coming out of Coyote Gulch, you can navigate across the well-cairned plateau to the Water Tank Trailhead (and walk the road back to the Crack-in-the-Wall Trailhead) or cut across directly to the latter via a less-defined cut-off trail.

Getting to Coyote Gulch

Nearest City: Salt Lake City, Utah (359 miles from the Crack-in-the-Wall Trailhead via I-15).

Nearest Town: Escalante, Utah (~40 miles from the Crack-in-the-Wall Trailhead). 

From Salt Lake City, it’s 359 miles to the Crack-in-the-Wall Trailhead via I-15 (7-8 hour drive). This route takes you directly past Bryce Canyon National Park and travels through the town of Escalante. Hole-in-the-Rock Road provides all-access to Coyote Gulch and begins 6 miles east of Escalante along Highway 12. Take note of Escalante Outfitters (https://www.escalanteoutfitters.com) while you pass through town as they make arguably the best pizza in Utah and is a worthy stop after any trip down Hole-in-the-Rock Road. 

Google Maps Link for Coyote Gulch: https://goo.gl/maps/Q5Y2wdmvScsVmhtUA

Trailhead and notable location coordinates (note some trailheads have multiple names on various internet resources and are compiled here):

Upper Dry Fork Trailhead: 37.47902, -111.24152

Red Well Trailhead: 37.42873, -111.14847

Hurricane Wash Trailhead: 37.38254, -111.13310

Water Tank/Jacob Hamblin Arch/Sneak Route Trailhead: 37.39341, -111.04663

Crack-in-the-Wall/40-Mile Ridge Trailhead: 37.40456, -111.00580

Crack-in-the-Wall: 37.41920, -110.98513

Sneak Route: 37.42004, -111.04170

When to Hike Coyote Gulch

Coyote Gulch is best hiked in spring (March-May) and fall (September-November). These seasons allow for mild temperatures (highs often in the 70s-80s) with cool evenings typical of the Colorado Plateau. Hiking in summer requires dealing with extreme heat and winter brings the possibility of snow and subfreezing temperatures. Mosquitos may be present in riparian areas of the Colorado Plateau as late as May.

Coyote Gulch Terrain

Coyote Gulch is a riparian ecosystem full of wildlife (from deer to frogs) and vegetation and contains waterfalls and natural arches and bridges. It is a deep, wide canyon in most places but narrows at some points (into an amphitheater near Jacob Hamblin Arch and a boulder field near the Escalante River). Accessing Coyote Gulch from Dry Fork, Red Well, or Hurricane Wash necessitates navigating more exposed dry canyons to access the more lush lower canyon. Expect constant sand and wet feet in many places. Exiting (or entering) the canyon via Crack-in-the-Wall requires navigating a tight, scrambly feature and a 700-foot sandy incline, and exiting (or entering) via the Sneak Route requires a 45-degree friction climb and may necessitate placing a rope for those unfamiliar with the terrain. 

Logistics: Direction, Land Management, Water

Permits: Backpacking in Coyote Gulch currently requires a self-serve permit filled out at the trailhead(s) or picked up at the Escalante Interagency Visitor Center, which aids the National Park Service in managing recreation in the area. Make sure you check the National Park Service website for the latest information regarding Coyote Gulch regulations.

Land Designations: Coyote Gulch mostly lies within the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area and is managed by the National Park Service. Trailheads including Dry Fork, Red Well, Hurricane Wash, and Water Tank technically lie in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, which is managed by the Bureau of Land Management, but the National Park Service sets the regulations for hiking in Coyote Gulch. It is managed as wilderness (https://wilderness.net/learn-about-wilderness/default.php). There are currently no restrictions on campsite selection beyond camping away from water. Considering how human noise travels in the canyons is good practice in site selection. Large, defined campsites are frequent and camping in these well-used areas mitigates further resource impacts from creating new sites.

Water: Water is plentiful in lower Coyote Canyon which follows flowing water to the Escalante River. Reliable water can be found most anywhere down-canyon of the confluence with Hurricane Wash. Do not expect water in other parts of possible routes, though it may be found after rain in perennial streams (like Hurricane Wash) or in potholes and tenajas. All water must be treated given the popularity of the area for recreation and cattle-grazing. 

Human Waste: the National Park Service requires all human waste and toilet paper to be packed out of Coyote Gulch using a portable waste containment bag (or Wag Bag). These are widely available at most outfitters in Utah, including in the town of Escalante. This regulation exists because of concerns over human waste proliferation and water quality in Coyote Gulch. A pit toilet exists in Coyote Gulch (on canyon-left, down-canyon from Cliff Arch) for recreational use. A second pit toilet is present on many maps and internet sources near Jacob Hamblin Arch, but this toilet is no longer present. Pit toilets are present at the Dry Fork Trailheads and beyond the turn to 40-Mile Ridge Road at Dance Hall Rock. No pit toilets are present at the Water Tank, Crack-in-the-Wall, Red Well, or Hurricane Wash Trailheads.

Campfires: Campfires are not allowed in Coyote Gulch given the lack of available firewood.

Dogs: Dogs are not allowed in Coyote Gulch.

Cultural Sites: Coyote Gulch used to be inhabited by the Ancestral Puebloans and contains remnants of that habitation, including dwellings and rock art. These are nonrenewable resources and need to be treated with the utmost respect and reverence. 

Special Gear: Waste containment bags are essential if traveling overnight in order to pack out human waste. A rope may be desired to aid in navigating the Sneak Route or to lower packs at Crack-in-the-Wall. Breathable shoes (like trail running shoes) are likely the best bet for Coyote Gulch as much of the route travels through water and deep sand (a great combo). If temperatures are high during your trip, parts of the route (like Dry Fork or the plateau sections between the edge of the canyon and the Water Tank or Crack-in-the-Wall trailheads) might warrant a sun umbrella and attention to electrolytes, especially if you are traveling from a non-desert climate. 

Other Considerations: Coyote Gulch is seeing increasing popularity and attention by the internet, outdoor recreation community, and for management by the National Park Service. This necessitates cooperation, especially in areas like the Sneak Route and Crack-in-the-Wall, where multiple parties may be taking their time to carefully navigate features; or around Jacob Hamblin Arch, where camping is most popular and where noise travels very easily. Coyote Gulch is a serene place and is managed for qualities like solitude by the National Park Service. We need to work together to be considerate of one another while recreating in this place which, along with all U.S. public land, is owned collectively by all Americans and deeply meaningful to many.

Know Before You Go

Coyote Gulch has specific regulations regarding permits, human waste, campfires, and dogs. Make sure you are in the know on the latest regulations from the National Park Service before beginning your trip. Be aware of the technical aspects involved in some route options (especially the Sneak Route to Jacob Hamblin Arch) and take the appropriate precautions. 

As with any hike in canyon country, keep the weather in mind as flash floods are frequent in these ecosystems during rain events. The weather may also prevent access to Coyote Gulch as Hole-in-the-Rock Road is challenging even in dry conditions from frequent washboarding and washouts. Sedans can access some locations on Hole-in-the-Rock Road (Dry Fork and Hurricane Wash are usually good bets) but other locations like the Red Well, Water Tank, and Crack-in-the-Wall Trailheads require navigating things like washed-out cattle guards, washed out sections of road, and deep sand. A high-clearance all-wheel-drive vehicle is highly recommended for traveling to these locations. 

Hole-in-the-Rock Road is an ordeal to travel down and takes time. Do further research on the area. The vast Escalante District of the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area and the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument contain lifetimes of outdoor opportunity. A trip down the road to backpack Coyote Gulch can easily be combined with some car camping and a sense of adventure to visit destinations like Reflection Canyon or the road’s namesake, Hole-in-the-Rock.

Additional Resources

National Park Service Website: https://www.nps.gov/glca/planyourvisit/coyote-gulch.htm

Caleb Meyer (he/him) is a hiker and conservation social science researcher based in Utah. In addition to countless hikes, backpacking trips, and other generous times in the outdoors, Caleb hiked the Pacific Crest Trail in 2019 and the Colorado Trail in 2021. Outside of long-distance hiking, Caleb spends his time running, skiing, and working in public land management. Follow along on Instagram: @topohikes.

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Region: Southwest (Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Utah)

Distance: 15 miles (2 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Lightly defined trail can be hard to follow
• Difficult descent to Escalante River
• Slickrock can be tough to navigate

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Water roughly halfway
• Point-to-point route
• Great camping options

Season: Spring / Fall

Elevation Gain: 3,000 feet

Max Elevation: 6,805 feet

Hiking The Boulder Mail Trail

The Boulder Mail Trail is a historic route rooted in delivering the mail across the unforgiving terrain of southern Utah. An old telegraph line still runs most of the way from Boulder to Escalante and the Boulder Mail Trail parallels its path. The point-to-point hike is one of the most diverse in the area, while also being extremely accessible. The slickrock, striking canyons, and high plateaus that make up Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument are all present on this 15-mile route.

This backpacking route is comprised of three different segments. The northeast third of the trail is on a high plateau and undulating terrain that is smooth but can get muddy after snow or rain. It is a slow descent from 6,800 feet to the edge of Death Hollow Canyon and the start of the second segment. This first third has the smoothest, most well-defined, and easiest miles of the route. It is a warmup for a tough descent into one of the most unique canyons I have ever hiked through.

The second segment of the Boulder Mail Trail is the canyon. This is the highlight of the trip but also the most difficult. The route down is precarious and steep. Cairns mark the route, but it is still difficult to wind down the slickrock and to the creek below. It is a slow drop to the bottom and accentuated by a refreshing crossing of the cold, deep creek. This is the best camping and water for the route, so I recommend filling up in Death Hollow Creek and even camping there. The route follows the creek for a few miles and joins a part of the Death Hollow Loop when it finally climbs out of the deep canyon. This turn can be hard to find, so be cognizant and I recommend having a GPS track to ensure you climb out at the right spot. The climb out of the canyon is very similar to the drop into it. The slickrock has no trail and the elevation gain can be punishing. Follow the cairns.

Segment three begins with a long climb out of the canyon and crosses the signature expansive terrain of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. The route can be hard to follow at times, marked only by small cairns, and the surface ranges from soft sand to hard rock. But it is beautiful. The escape into nature is obvious and this lesser-traveled route offers ample spots to dry camp or simply take in the surrounding views in this third segment.

The 15-mile route ends with a climb over one last ridgeline and a drop to the outskirts of Escalante, Utah. The southwest corner is also the only place that backpackers should expect any cell service, and even here I found it faint. This route is about getting into the heart of Grand Staircase-Escalante; you can show everyone on social media later!

When to Hike The Boulder Mail Trail

The Boulder Mail Trail is best hiked in the spring and the fall, although I was able to travel the entire route in February. There was snow in February and the creek was especially cold, but there was a special kind of beauty with the surrounding mountains cloaked in white. Summer can be very hot on the exposed rock sections, but it is also doable with the right water capacity, knowledge, and preparation. I recommend hiking it in the shoulder seasons.

It is a point-to-point trail, so sorting out the logistics on how to get back to the car at one end is something to consider. Luckily the road from one trailhead to the other is straightforward and most cars will be traveling all the way through if hitching is a consideration. Also, I have done this trail as an out and back for 30 miles of enjoyment and also ended up back at my vehicle.

Boulder Mail Trail Terrain

The terrain is classic high desert. There are open, exposed bedrock (slickrock) sections, small shrubs, plants with stickers, and sand. It is a classic Utah route and has all the characteristics of many of the similar routes in the dry, arid state. I consumed more water than I expected and it is likely due to the subtle accumulation of elevation and the lack of moisture in the air.

Your feet will get wet. There really is no way to avoid having to wade through the deep, soft, flowing waters of Death Hollow Creek. It is not a scary crossing, but a mid-thigh saunter through the water. If backpacking, this is the perfect opportunity to bring camp shoes or Crocs and save your shoes and socks from getting soaked through.

Logistics: Direction, Land Management, Water

Land Management: This trail is in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, which means the regulations are much more lax than a national park. There is a ranger station in Escalante, Utah, where a free permit can be obtained. If the ranger station is closed, each trailhead has a register to simply mark when you start and when you will be finished.

Water: The only water on the Boulder Mail Trail is Death Hollow Creek. You cannot miss it as you will have to wade through the water, but I would recommend camping here and also topping off your water before the long climb out of the canyon.

Remoteness: There is very little connectivity on the Boulder Mail Trail. The only semblance of cell service that I had was the last couple of miles when I was exiting on the Escalante side. Be prepared to be fully contained and self-sufficient on your hike.

Permits: There are walk-up permits at the Escalante ranger station.

Poison Ivy: The route is known to have some poison ivy on the Death Hollow Creek portion. I have not had an issue with it, but former hiking partners have.

Additional Resources

Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument

NPS Escalante Website

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