Region: Mid-Atlantic (Adirondack Park, New York)

Length: 30 miles (2 to 3 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• The elevation gain is 3,418 feet over ~30 miles. The trail loops around the Seward Mountains, ascending and descending low ridges. There are no significant climbs.
• Mostly soft dirt trails, with several sections along old logging roads.
• The trail is wet and muddy, with wet crossings of a meadow that can flood during high water, Calkins Brook, and the Cold River if the river is low enough.

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

• Loop trail done in 2-3 days so resupply not needed.
• Plentiful water.
• Shelters well spaced.

Season: Spring, summer, fall.

Net Elevation Gain: 3,418 feet

How to Get to the Cold River Loop

The trail starts at the Seward Trailhead. The closest towns are Saranac Lake and Tupper Lake. Coreys Road leads from Route 3 (between the two towns) to Ampersand Road and the Seward Trailhead.

Coreys is a small settlement of year-round and seasonal houses with no stores or gas stations.

About the Cold River Loop

The Cold River Loop combines the Calkins Brook Truck Trail, the Northville-Placid Trail, and the Ward Brook Truck Trail for a ~30-mile loop around the Seward Mountains.

The trail is not well-maintained, and blowdowns block the trail throughout the loop. Some sections are heavily overgrown, especially the short, unnamed trail between the Calkins Brook trail and Cold River shelters 3 and 4 on the NPT.

This is also a very wet hike, so water shoes are a good idea.

When to Hike the Cold River Loop

Spring: Snow can linger, bugs can be bothersome, and spring rains can make a wet trail even wetter.

Summer: Buggy, wet, and sometimes uncomfortably hot and humid. But the sweet spot of summer hiking is swimming in the Cold River.

Fall: Leaves begin to change color, the bugs are mostly gone, and the temperature can be cool and comfortable.

Hiking the Cold River Loop

The centerpiece of the Cold River Loop is the Cold River, with four shelters that provide stunning views of the river and nights falling asleep to the music of the rushing water.

The loop follows the Northville-Placid Trail (NPT) for roughly 10 miles, about half of those along the river, through what is considered the most remote section of the 136-mile NPT.

Trail access is from the Seward Trailhead, a few dirt road miles from the small settlement of Coreys, NY. Trailhead parking can be at a premium on weekends and holidays as it is a popular launching spot for 46ers climbing the 4,000-plus-foot peaks of the Seward Mountains.

I hiked the loop counterclockwise, taking the Calkins Brook Truck Trail (10.6 miles) to the NPT at Shattuck Clearing, the NPT (10.4 miles) to the Ward Brook Truck Trail, and the Ward Brook Truck Trail (8.7 miles) to my car. I stayed at Cold River shelter No. 3 overlooking the river; Cold River shelter No. 4, a short walk downriver, also has a superb view of the river.

The hike from the parking lot follows an unnamed trail for 1.2 miles to the Calkins Brook and Ward Brook truck trails. I turned right at the trail junction onto the Calkins Brook trail and the going was easy along an old logging road for 6.5 miles to the Calkins Brook shelter.

Shortly after the shelter the trail crosses Calkins Brook, a dry crossing in low water and a wet one in high water. This was my first wet shoes water crossing. The trail becomes overgrown after this, almost disappearing in sections. Shortly before reaching the Cold River a marked side trail leads to Latham Pond, with a view of the Sewards.

The Calkins Brook trail ends at the Cold River, with two options for reaching Cold River shelters 3 and 4. If you take a left at the river, you’ll follow a trail that disappears among thick overgrowth and a beaver pond, eventually emerging from the overgrowth behind Cold River shelter 4. I could clearly see the trail from both ends, but lost it in the middle.

To the right is an easy path to the horse trail crossing at Shattuck Clearing, where there is a marked tent site. I found a shallow crossing downriver (my second wet shoes crossing of the day), and reconnected with the horse trail for a short uphill walk to the NPT. It’s important to note that crossing the Cold River is possible only during low water.

The NPT winds through the woods for about a mile, crossing two suspension bridges before reaching Cold River shelters 3 and 4. Both shelters have fire pits, a privy, and adjacent tent sites.

The next day I continued on the NPT, following the trail uphill from the shelters and along the river.

Once again the trail followed an old logging road, and the hiking along the river was easy to Seward and Ouluska shelters. The Seward shelter is a popular spot for swimming at Millers Falls, but the day I stopped was cold and threatening rain so I did not swim.

After the Ouluska shelter the trail heads uphill away from the river, leaving behind the flat, easy walking, and soon reaches a spot where Noah John Rondeau, the Hermit of Cold River, lived from roughly 1929 to 1950. The sign marking the location of his long-gone hermitage is a must-have picture for loop and NPT hikers.

The trail continues over ridges, climbing and descending before reaching the Ward Brook trail, which bears left at the junction. The NPT continues to Lake Placid, passing Cold River shelters 1 and 2 (.4 miles) and Duck Hole shelters 1 and 2 (1.5 miles).

Soon after the junction the trail crosses a meadow that can be dry, flooded, or something in between. It was flooded when I hiked through, and because my shoes were wet from rain that had been steadily falling for several hours, I waded through the nearly foot-deep water rather than testing the floating saplings intended as a bridge.

After 2.6 miles, steady rain, and many blowdowns, I reached the two Number 4 horse trail shelters , which were empty and in very good shape (dry inside, no roof leaks). A stream flows right behind the shelters, with easy access for filtering water. Shelter from the storm never looked so good.

The trail from the horse shelters to the trailhead (6.1 miles) continues on a flat grade, passing the Ward Brook and Blueberry shelters. Both shelters are popular launching spots for peakbagging the Sewards and because they often fill up are not good destinations for loop hikers.

After the Blueberry shelter the trail is very wet, and large blowdowns block the trail. At this point my shoes were so wet it seemed futile to try to avoid the mud and water.

But the hike went quickly, and I happily changed into clean clothes and dry shoes back at my car.

Suggested Itineraries

Two Days: Counterclockwise on the Calkins Brook Truck Trail to Seward shelter, Seward shelter to the trailhead. Or clockwise on Ward Brook Truck Trail to Ouluska shelter, Ouluska shelter to the trailhead.

Three Days: Ward Brook Truck Trail to Duck Hole, Duck Hole to Cold River shelters 3 and 4, Calkins Brook Truck Trail to the trailhead. Or the reverse: Calkins Brook to shelters 3 and 4, shelters 3 and 4 to Duck Hole, Duck Hole to the trailhead. Duck Hole is not technically on the loop, but it’s a nice side trip to a beautiful location.

The Cold River Loop Terrain

The Calkins Brook and Ward Brook truck trails mostly follow old logging roads, with slight elevation gain and loss. The Northville-Placid Trail is mostly flat from the Cold River shelters to Ouluska shelter, then climbs and descends ridges away from the river.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water

Permits: No permits are needed.

Shelters: Plenty of shelters with tent sites, picnic tables, and privies nicely spaced along the loop: Calkins Brook (2 shelters), Cold River shelters 3 and 4, the Seward and Ouluska shelters, Cold River shelters 1 and 2, the two Number 4 horse trail shelters, and the Ward Brook and Blueberry shelters. I do not recommend staying at the Ward Brook and Blueberry shelters because they get heavy use by 46ers.

Water: Water is plentiful. I carried a liter and filled up at the abundant water sources along the loop.

Route-finding: The three trails that make up the loop are easy to follow, although some sections are very overgrown. The Calkins Brook and Ward Brook trails are sparsely blazed with blue trail markers. The Northville-Placid Trail section has a confusing mix of NPT and two kinds of blue trail markers, also spaced far apart. But trail junctions are clearly marked with signs indicating distances to shelters and connecting trails.

Water Crossings: The Calkins Brook bridge just north of the shelter washed out years ago, and lumber to rebuild it has sat in the woods for years. I waded across the brook when I hiked because the water was too high for dry rock hopping. A meadow on the Ward Brook trail near the junction with the NPT can be dry, covered with water, or something in between. It was filled with water about a foot deep when I hiked, and I waded through it. The trail connecting the Calkins Brook trail to Cold River shelters 3 and 4 is extremely overgrown, and I lost the trail in the area of a beaver marsh. I backtracked and waded across the Cold River at a shallow spot downriver from the Shattuck Clearing horse trail ford, and hiked the horse trail a short distance to the NPT.

Know Before You Go

Solitude: In early September I saw one NPT thru-hiker and two loop hikers, and I was the only hiker at the two shelters I stayed in. About a dozen 46ers signed the trail logbook between the time I began hiking and my return.

Clockwise or Counterclockwise?: I hiked counterclockwise, mainly because I wanted to spend my first night on the river at Cold River shelters 3 and 4. The two loop hikers I met were going clockwise on the Ward Brook trail because they wanted to spend the first night at the Duck Hole shelters. So hiking direction comes down to personal preference.

The Horse Trails: Several horse trails cross and run alongside the loop trails, but they are rarely used and overgrown. Hiking on them is not recommended.

Parking: The Seward Trailhead is the only parking area for the loop, and Google Maps has directions. The trailhead is heavily used by 46ers hiking the Seward Mountain peaks, and often fills up.

Transportation: Driving your own vehicle is the only practical way to get to the trail.

Cell Reception: Random. At various times a text or phone call came through on my cell phone, but there is no consistent cell reception.

Trail Guides: I used the National Geographic Adirondack Parks Lake Placid / High Peaks map because it has the best trail markings, shelter names and locations, and mileages. The Adirondack Mountain Club High Peaks map has smaller print, making it hard to read, and does not name the shelters. The Northville-Lake Placid Chapter of the ADK has a trail book, but I didn’t consult it because only about 10 miles of the loop are on the NPT.

Bear Canisters: The New York Department of Environmental Conservation recommends using bear canisters, but does not require them in the Outer Zone of the High Peaks Wilderness where the Cold River Loop is located.

Peakbagging: Two herd paths marked by cairns leave the Ward Brook trail near the Ward Brook and Blueberry shelters, one climbing a herd path to the peaks of Seward, Donaldson, and Emmons, and another climbing Seymour, all 4,000-footers. A herd path off the Calkins Brook trail is marked by a cairn and old pot, also leading to Seward, Donaldson, and Emmons.

Cold River Loop Resources

Adirondack Mountain Club

Camping regulations: New York Department of Environmental Conservation

Northville-Placid Trail guidebook

Read our account of hiking the Northville-Placid Trail here

Adirondack Park (Lake Placid / High Peaks) map

Adirondack Mountain Club High Peaks map

Weather

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Region: Northeast (Pachaug State Forest, Connecticut)

Length: ~31 miles (3 days)

Physical Difficulty: Easy

• The elevation gain is 2,848 feet, and two sections account for the bulk of the elevation gain: Mount Misery (441 feet) and about 2 miles of steep up and down scrambling through rocky ravines north of Beach Pond.
• Mostly soft dirt trails and forest roads. Some short, paved road walks.
• Water crossings can be tricky after heavy rain, but bridges, some in poor condition, span the deepest crossings. I had to take off my shoes and pants to wade across one deep crossing, but I suspect the deep water was because of torrential rains in the days before my hike.

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

• Loop trail done in three days, so resupply not needed. Only two sites where camping is allowed: Dawley Pond and Dry Reservoir shelters. Permits are required.
• Plentiful water. Late-winter rainstorms before my hike left trails covered in water.
• Some forest roads leading to trailheads are closed for the winter so it’s a good idea to call Pachaug State Forest headquarters to find where you can park in the off-season.

Season: Year-round

Net Elevation Gain: 2,848 feet

Hiking the Pachaug State Forest Loop

The ~31-mile loop that I hiked combined parts of the Pachaug and Nehantic Trails in Pachaug State Forest, Connecticut’s largest state forest at 26,477 acres.

Horses are permitted on sections of the trail, and I saw two men riding horses and a fair amount of horse poop on trails. The trails also cross sanctioned dirt bike tracks.

Trailhead parking (shown on this interactive trails map) is scattered throughout the forest, but if you’re planning the off-season loop that I did I recommend parking on Fish Road, which has year-round access. The hike from Fish Road to the Dawley Pond Lean-to is ~14 miles, ~11 miles to Dry Reservoir Lean-to, and ~6 miles to Fish Road.

I parked at Fish Road and hiked south for 2 miles on the Nehantic Trail through mountain laurel stands before reaching Green Fall Pond. Water covered low-lying trail sections, a harbinger of wet trails to come for the rest of the hike.

I stopped for lunch at Green Fall Pond, a seasonal recreation area with swimming, picnic tables, outhouses, grills, and camping. This is the southern terminus for the Nehantic and Pachaug Trails.

Heading north from Green Fall Pond on the Pachaug Trail the route follows a low and mostly dry ridge for 4 miles to Route 165, crossing Route 138 along the way. The trail turns right onto Route 165, a state highway with narrow shoulders and fast-moving vehicles, for a short hike skirting the southern end of Beach Pond. The road walk enters Rhode Island at the bridge over the pond outlet, then crosses the road and heads back into the woods as the trail winds north along the pond’s eastern shore. The trail hugs the shore through the Arcadia Management Area in Rhode Island before veering away from Beach Pond and back into Connecticut and Pachaug State Forest. This is a nice stretch of the hike that offers waterfront access for hikers, unlike across the pond where the Connecticut shore is crowded with mega houses.

After leaving Beach Pond the trail begins a roughly 2-mile stretch through rocky ridges and ravines that were filled with water after late-winter rains. The trail becomes a scramble up and down the low but steep ridges, and is the most difficult section of the loop.

After the ridges the trail flattens out, and the hike to the Dawley Pond Lean-to is fast and easy. Although it’s called the Dawley Pond Lean-to, the three-sided structure is north of Dawley Pond, on Great Meadow Brook Pond.

The map here correctly shows the shelter’s location on Great Meadow Brook Pond. The Connecticut Walk Book, a comprehensive guide to Connecticut’s blue-blazed trails, mistakenly shows the shelter on Wickaboxet Marsh.

The shelter was clean when I arrived, but because it is so close to a road the shelter apparently can be a trashy party spot.

I filled up with water at the Great Meadow Brook Pond outlet just before reaching the clearly marked shelter side trail, and recommend filling up at one of the streams north of the pond if you’re coming from that direction. The pond shore is weedy and shallow at the shelter, making it difficult to get water.

The trail heading north from the shelter to Cedar Swamp Road passes stone walls and cellar holes, remnants of long-ago farms. An apparent gravesite for a 3-year-old girl who died in 1891, with fresh remembrances left at the site, sits along the trail through this section.

Emerging from the woods onto Cedar Swamp Road, the trail heads west for a short road walk. The road climbs easily to a wide-open hilltop farm—at 600-plus feet the highest point on the trail—where the wind blew fiercely from the northwest during my hike, pushing against me as I pushed back.

The trail crosses Route 49 to Hell Hollow Road, and the road walk isn’t well-blazed. But a sign does indicate the trail’s return to the woods, which loops north off Hell Hollow Road before heading south and crossing the road again.

The trail stays in the woods for several miles, crossing and following forest roads. The trail passes the Lowden Brook Cascades, and several deep pools in the brook below the falls look like promising cooling-off spots on a hot summer hike.

The walking continues to be easy to the Pachaug Trail junction with the Nehantic Trail. At this point the Pachaug and Nehantic Trails merge and head west through a recreation area popular for exercise walking. The trail soon veers left into the woods and begins ascending Mount Misery, supposedly named by European settlers for the area’s miserable farming soil. The hike to the 441-foot summit is easy and fast, and the main view is to the east and the forests I passed through on the first day of my hike.

The trail descending Mount Misery is blue-blazed but it’s easy to mistakenly follow—as I did—a herd path rather than the marked trail. At the base of the mountain the trail again follows a forest road before re-entering the woods.

A short distance later the Pachaug Trail heads south while the Nehantic Trail continues west to the Dry Reservoir Lean-to. The trail crosses a stream just before the shelter, and this is the water source for the shelter.

The Dry Reservoir Lean-to is clean, but small. I couldn’t stand up without bumping my head.

Although there’s no outstanding view at the shelter, I did see a stunning sunset and sunrise through the bare trees.

The final leg of the hike is ~6 miles, backtracking over Mount Misery and then south on the Nehantic Trail from the junction where the Pachaug Trail splits off to head north. The hike from that point back to Fish Road is flat and easy, with a short road walk on Route 49. Although blazes are few on the state highway the turnoff into the woods is clearly marked.

How to Get to Pachaug State Forest

Norwich and New London are the closest cities in Connecticut, each about a 30-minute drive to Pachaug State Forest. TF Green International Airport in Warwick, Rhode Island, is about an hour drive away.

Trailheads: Fish Road, Green Fall Pond Road, Shetucket Turnpike, Brown Road, Hell Hollow Road, Fire Tower Road, and Headquarters Road.

About the Pachaug-Nehantic Loop

The trails are mostly flat, with easy vehicle access to trailheads. Because camping is allowed only at shelters, the loop I hiked requires at least 14 miles to a shelter the first day, and about 11 miles to a shelter the second day.

But there are opportunities for shorter loops using the many interconnecting trails in the state forest. And two shelters on the Narragansett Trail make a point-to-point hike possible on that trail, or possibly putting together a different loop hike.

Here’s the route I followed on my hike:

Day 1: Park in the parking area for about 6 cars on Fish Road in Voluntown, CT, at the Nehantic Trail trailhead. Hike ~2 miles south on the Nehantic to its southern terminus at Green Fall Pond, and at the pond take the Pachaug Trail north to Dawley Pond Lean-to. Total mileage, ~14 miles.

Day 2: Continue north on the Pachaug Trail to Hell Hollow Road, then veer south and after several miles connect with the Nehantic Trail at the recreation area. Hike west on the Nehantic-Pachaug Trails over Mount Misery, then head north on the Nehantic Trail when the Pachaug splits off to head south. The Dry Reservoir Lean-to is a short distance north on the Nehantic Trail. Total mileage, ~11 miles.

Day 3: Backtrack on the Nehantic Trail and Nehantic-Pachaug Trails to the junction where the Nehantic heads south and the Pachaug goes north. Follow the Nehantic Trail south to Fish Road. Total mileage, ~6 miles.

When to Hike the Pachaug-Nehantic Loop

Spring: April can be a good month for hiking as trees begin budding and wildflowers bloom; May is warm and still mostly bug-free. March is iffy. During my hike in early March streams were swollen—one required knee-deep wading—and trails were filled with water in low spots after a week of heavy rain. Temperatures for my hike were 29 to 45, but a few days later they reached the upper 60s.

Summer: Buggy, humid, and hot.

Fall: My favorite time for backpacking. The days begin cooling off in September, and October brings peak New England foliage. November can continue to have good weather good for hiking, but hunting season begins in the state forest.

Winter: Snow is rare, and when it falls usually melts within days, making the Pachaug a good winter hike if you have cabin fever.

The Pachaug-Nehantic Loop Terrain

The trail is mainly flat as it meanders through pine and hardwood forests. The Pachaug Trail follows low ridges north of Green Fall Pond and then rocky, steep ridges north of Beach Pond.

Mount Misery is the only significant climb on the Pachaug-Nehantic loop.

Ponds, marshes, and streams are plentiful, some next to the trail, others visible in the distance through the trees.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water

Permits: Permits are required to stay at the four shelters in Pachaug State Forest. Dispersed camping is not allowed. Information on obtaining permits from the Connecticut Department of Energy & Environmental Protection can be found here.

Shelters: Dawley Pond and Dry Reservoir shelters are on the loop I hiked; Peg Mill and Legend Wood shelters are on the Narragansett Trail, which connects with the Nehantic and Pachaug Trails at Green Fall Pond. The shelters do not have bear boxes or privies.

Water: Streams and ponds are close enough along the trail that I didn’t worry about running short of water. I carried a liter and never ran dry.

Route-finding: The Pachaug and Nehantic Trails are marked with solid blue blazes; side trails use different-colored blazes and most are marked with signs. Blazes are sparse on road walks but signs mark trail turnoffs into the woods.

Know Before You Go

Clockwise or Counterclockwise?: It’s personal preference. I hiked the Pachaug-Nehantic Loop counterclockwise to get the longer-mile days out of the way on the first two days, with an easy hike to my car on day three.

Private Land: Parts of the loop pass through private land, making it important to follow the camping guidelines to preserve trail access.

Parking: The Connecticut Forest & Park Association, which maintains the 825-plus miles of blue-blazed hiking trails in Connecticut, has an interactive map on its website showing trails, shelters, and trailhead parking, with directions to the trailheads.

Transportation: Driving your own vehicle is the only practical way to get to the trail.

Cell Reception: Good throughout the forest.

Trail Guide: The Connecticut Walk Book is the ultimate guide to Connecticut’s blue-blazed trails. The book is compiled by the Connecticut Forest & Park Association, which maintains the trails, and can be purchased from the CFPA or through Amazon.

Trail Updates: Trail information such as reroutes and damaged bridges can be found here. But the information does not appear to be updated online to indicate whether problems have been resolved.

Ticks: Lyme disease was first identified in Connecticut, and the ticks carrying the disease can be active year-round. I spray my clothes with permethrin and do careful tick checks of my body after every hike in the woods.

About the Forest: At 26,477 acres in six towns, Pachaug is the largest state forest in Connecticut. The word Pachaug derives from the American Indian term meaning bend or turn in the river, referring to the 9-mile Pachaug River. The forest was inhabited by Narragansett, Pequot, Wampanoag, Nipmuck, Pocumtuck, and Mohegan peoples, most of whom were driven from their lands by European settlers.

Tree Damage: Gypsy moths heavily damaged oak and maple trees in the 2010s, evidenced by swaths of clear-cut forests and the number of dead trees on the ground in the Pachaug State Forest.

State Campgrounds in the Forest: The Green Fall Campground and Mount Misery Campground in the forest are car-camping sites that offer base camps for hiking.

Pachaug State Forest Resources

Pachaug State Forest

Interactive Map of Trails, Trailhead Parking, and Shelters

Backpack Camping in Connecticut

Weather

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Region: Southwest (Zion National Park, Utah)
Distance: 35 miles (optional side trails for 5.4 additional miles) 

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• Two-mile section of trail is through sand
• Minimum distance hiked one day is ~12 miles 
• Several long water carries

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Permits are necessary
• Point-to-point, must shuttle or hitchhike
• Clearly marked trails

Season: Spring, Fall
Elevation (average): 6,500 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 4,885 feet (-6,670 feet)

Hiking the Zion Traverse Trail

This route crosses Zion National Park from the northwest to the southeast and showcases an amazing sampling of the park while avoiding the infamous national park crowds until the last three miles. The route is usually traveled from north to south and passes by Angels Landing near the end of the trail (hence the crowds). We started at Lee Pass Trailhead in the northwest corner of the park. This trailhead is not used as much as those along the scenic highway, and you will see very few people in this area of the park. 

The trail starts with a long descent through a wooded area and has some incredible overlooks of the mountains and Kolob Canyons. Next, you come to the river and follow it through the canyon until reaching your campsite for the evening. There is an optional side hike to Kolob Arch, which I recommend. This is a beautiful area where you are surrounded by the colorful red rock Zion is known for.

 The second day, you will continue through the canyon with some minor climbs and will end up in a cattle pasture on private land (they have an agreement with the national park). This sounds boring, but the views from this section were some of my favorites—lots of beautiful red mountains in every direction with happy cows grazing nearby! After this, you reach the section of trail through sand (great for working on those calf muscles). Here you get overlooks of rock-climbing areas. This section is very exposed and there is little shade. The trail continues into the center of the park where the landscape becomes more sparse. The second evening we camped alongside a canyon.

On day three, you pass through a dense forest, which was the only section of the trail I didn’t think had jaw-dropping beauty. However, the views of the afternoon made up for it as we reached the West Rim Trail and the 360-degree views of the heart of Zion. There are some great campsites here with amazing overlooks. 

On day four, we continued along the West Rim Trail with some ups and downs carved out from the rock on the mountain. This brings you to Angels Landing and MANY tourists, which can be a shock after seeing almost no one. After your optional detour to Angels Landing (permits required), continue down a paved trail of switchbacks to reach the shuttle on the scenic highway. This trail is a wonderful showcase of the beauty and diversity within Zion. 

Note: The Zion Traverse used to continue to East Zion, but a rockfall on the Weeping Rock Trail in August 2019 has made it impossible to continue the hike past the scenic drive. We asked some locals about when this trail could be reopened and the answers ranged from 10 to 40 years. Prior to the rockslide the trail was very unstable and getting approval to make a new trail in a national park is a very complicated process. I wouldn’t plan on being able to do the full Zion Traverse including East Zion for many more years.

Zion Traverse Permits

Zion National Park permits are found here.

We started looking at backcountry / camping permits in mid-September for any weekend in October (about 4-6 weeks out). There was only one weekend that still had available campsites. Camping in Zion is all reservation based, but there is some walk-in availability and some locations where you can choose your site when you arrive, though you still need to reserve in advance.

There are three main camping areas: Kolob Canyons, Wildcat Canyon, and West Rim. For Kolob Canyons, the ideal sites are 7, 8, 9, and 10 because staying here cuts down your mileage for the second day and allows you to take the short side trip to Kolob Arch. 

Wildcat Canyon is an at-large camping area, so you do not need to book a specific site. We found it a little challenging to find a good campsite in this area, so be sure to ask the rangers for advice. 

The West Rim campsites I would recommend are 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5. Campsites 1 and 2 are near a seasonal water source, we stayed at 2 and had an incredible view of the canyon.

For the Kolob Canyons and West Rim campsites, only half are available online, the other half are walk-ins. We booked sites online and “upgraded” to some walk-in sites when we picked up our permit. Personally, we were unwilling to risk not securing a permit. 

Be prepared for permit pickup to take 30-60 minutes. The backcountry office issues many different permits that must be picked up in person, so this was a much longer line than I have seen in other national parks. 

*Adding Angels Landing requires an additional permit which is fairly competitive. There are rangers stationed at the beginning of this hike checking permits at all times. You can learn more about the options for securing this permit here.

How to Get to the Zion Traverse

Closest Major City: Las Vegas, Nevada (150 miles)
Trailhead 1– Lee Pass Trailhead 
Trailhead 2– The Grotto (you cannot drive here, must take the free shuttle from the main visitor center)

If you do not live within driving distance, I recommend flying into Las Vegas and renting a car. Zion is about three hours from the airport and this gives you the chance to add side trips to Valley of Fire State Park, Bryce Canyon National Park, or explore other areas of Zion. You can take a shuttle from Las Vegas to Zion, but it can take seven hours and involves a layover in St. George. We landed in Las Vegas at 10 p.m. and stayed at a dispersed camping site about halfway and finished the drive in the morning. 

Because this hike is point-to-point, you must car shuttle, hire an outfitter, or hitchhike. We only had one rental car, so we hired an outfitter to shuttle us between the two trailheads. There were two options that we could find last fall, but now I see many other options. We used Red Rock Shuttle for a ride from Springdale to Lee Pass Trailhead departing at 9 a.m. The cost was $55 per person with a four-person minimum (including other parties) or they cancel. This is the lowest price I have seen.

We did meet two guys at Lee Pass Trailhead who hitchhiked. They said they got a ride to La Verkin, and then were able to pay someone about $40 to get a ride to the Lee Pass Trailhead. If you are flexible on time, this could be an acceptable option but it isn’t very reliable considering how out of the way the starting trailhead is from a town or another point of interest.

We parked our car at the main Zion National Park visitor center and walked about a mile to the outfitter to get on the shuttle. The parking at the outfitter was $20/day, but the Zion Visitor Center has free overnight parking for those with backcountry permits. It can be hard to get a parking spot at the visitor center during the busy season, so make sure to get there early.

Because this is a national park, there is an entrance fee. You can either buy a seven-day pass to Zion, use the America The Beautiful Pass, or buy an annual pass to Zion. Whatever option you choose, you must bring the pass with you on the shuttle. When you take the shuttle to Lee Pass Trailhead you are leaving the park and re-entering. We got a firm scolding for leaving our pass in our car. 

At the end of our hike, we took the free park shuttle from the Grotto Trailhead back to the visitor center and retrieved our car. We stayed one more night at the main park campground and split a group campsite with other backpackers we met on the trail. I would recommend spending some time driving the highway through East Zion after your hike; there are lots of pretty places to park and explore the washes. 

When to Hike the Zion Traverse Trail

The best time of year to hike this route is spring and fall. Winter can be too cold with the possibility of snow and guarantee of below-freezing temperatures at night. On the opposite side, summer is too warm for such an exposed trail with limited/seasonal water sources.

In my opinion, the best times would be April, May, September, or October. We hiked this trail the last weekend of October and experienced highs in the 50s-60s and overnight lows in the 20s. Crowding is not a big issue as this hike is permitted and there are many people who choose to just do a single night in the backcountry and hike out-and-back. There were only two other people doing the full route when we were. 

Zion Traverse Sample Itinerary

Day 1: 6.5 mi. Lee Pass Trailhead to Kolab Canyons site 10 

Day 2: 12.6 mi. Kolab Canyons site 10 to Wildcat Canyon

Day 3: 13 mi. Wildcat Canyon to West Rim site 2

Day 4: 4.4 mi. West Rim site 2 to The Grotto

For a sample two-day itinerary, you would only camp at Wildcat Canyon.

Zion Traverse Terrain

The trail goes back and forth between forested areas and exposed desert areas, with the primary terrain being exposed desert. The trail is very well-maintained and well-marked. The only difficulty in losing the trail would be after a snowfall. Sections of the West Rim Trail can be very muddy depending on the time of year. The entirety of the trail is well-developed and all intersections are well marked. With the GPX downloaded and this map you are more than prepared.

Zion Traverse Logistics

WAG Bag Requirement: You are required to use a WAG Bag within national park boundaries. However, this can be avoided pretty easily. There are pit toilets at the Hop Valley Trailhead and at the base of Angels Landing. Also, after passing through Wildcat Canyon there is a section of trail where you leave national park boundaries, meaning you can dig a cathole here. You should carry a WAG Bag just in case regardless.

Zion Traverse Water: There are three reliable spring water sources available that are evenly spaced out. Some of the other springs are seasonal. When picking up your permit from the backcountry office they will have detailed information about the springs. In addition, many of the shuttle companies will drop off a water cache at Hop Valley Trailhead for an additional fee or you can cache water yourself before starting. It is important to get updated information on the cyanotoxin that has been found in many creeks throughout Zion; at the time of this writing all creek and river water has been deemed unfilterable in Zion and you should avoid submerging your head in it. 

Know Before You Go

I would recommend securing permits before counting on doing this trail, unless you have the time and flexibility to go to the backcountry office with several different start dates. Also, because of the exposure on this trail, weather plays a factor. Completing this trail in the depth of summer heat or winter snow would not be recommended. The Zion NP area can see extremes in both directions. It’s important to realize that extreme and unpredicted weather can emerge in this topography: hail and thunderstorms, unexpected snow, and extreme heat and cold.

Resources

Permits 
National Park Service 
Map 

Abby Fincel resides in Missouri and is always trying to maximize her PTO to get in one more trip out West. She’s infamous to her coworkers for working a full day, flying out after work, and hitting the trail the next morning. She fell fully in love with backpacking after hiking the JMT in 2021 and spends many of her days working as a dentist daydreaming about her next outdoor adventure. When not hiking, she can be found training for marathons. She just completed her 10th marathon, in addition to running the Boston Marathon. Running and backpacking both satisfy her outdoor itch and endorphin addiction. 

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The Titcomb Basin Loop is a 44-mile route through the Wind River Range in Wyoming. Highlights of this trip include the namesake Titcomb Basin with an off-trail opportunity to dive deeper into the backcountry.

Day 1 (Elkhart Park – Pole Creek Trailhead to Titcomb Lakes)
Day 2 (Titcomb Lakes to Trapper Lake)
Day 3 (Trapper Lake to Elkhart Park – Pine Creek Trailhead)

Titcomb Basin Loop At-a-Glance

Region: Mountain West (Bridger Wilderness, Bridger-Teton National Forest)
Distance: 44 miles (3-5 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult
—Exposure at high elevations (sun, thunderstorms)
—Sections of loose talus and Class II scrambling (Knapsack Col only)
—Off-trail navigation (Knapsack Col only)

Logistical Difficulty: Easy
—Permits are free and self-issued at the trailhead
—Loop route (no shuttle required)
—Camping is undesignated
—Water is plentiful

Season: Summer, Early Fall

Elevation (average): ~10,500
Total Elevation Gain: 7,411 feet

Hiking Titcomb Basin Loop

Titcomb Basin is a bucket-list backpacking destination in Wyoming’s Wind River Range. The area can be quite popular (by Wyoming standards), but the broader Bridger Wilderness provides ample opportunity for solitude. It’s easy to think of the loop as having three distinct sections: The first section introduces you to the Wind River’s granite monoliths en route to Titcomb Basin; the second section follows the Continental Divide northbound, carrying you deeper into the high country; and the third section is the home stretch, leading you through thick forests before returning you to your car.

I completed this route in three days over Labor Day weekend in 2022. Most hikers I encountered were in the first 14 miles of the trail before reaching Titcomb Basin.

Pole Creek Trail introduces you to the Wind River Range by leading you through dense forests and several meadows before spitting you out at Photographers Point. This section of trail gives you time to warm up your legs and make pack adjustments as needed. (Conversely, if you start the loop in a clockwise direction, you’ll begin with a 1,700-foot descent to Pine Creek … not fun.) From here, you’ll remain above 10,000 feet elevation, weaving around many large and small lakes. Both Seneca Lake (mile 9) and Island Lake (mile 12) are excellent camping options before reaching Titcomb Basin at mile 14.

The basin comprises a series of Titcomb lakes that are surrounded by towering 13,000-foot granite peaks: Henderson Peak to the west, Jackson, Fremont, Sacagawea, and Mount Helen to the east. Most hikers and backpackers will travel in and out the basin via the southern drainage (toward Island Lake). Having read trip reports that mentioned the Knapsack Col alternative (exiting the basin to the north), I knew I needed to give it a try! This is an off-trail route that is both challenging and rewarding for experienced hikers. I recommend researching current trail conditions (closer to your departure date) and assessing your physical capabilities. Route finding, rock scrambling, scree climbing: If this does not appeal to you, return to Island Lake, and continue north on the Highline / Continental Divide Trail.

Approach Knapsack Col by following the Titcomb Basin Trail north until it ends. From here, follow the creek and begin a boulder scramble. The creek is coming from a small lake at 11,700 feet. Continue west up a small saddle before gaining sight of Knapsack Col (identifiable by the snowfield at its base). Approach the col by angling up and across the scree slope. The snowfield I encountered in early September was easy to avoid by following the slope up and to the right. This 1.5-mile section through the upper basin was the highlight of the trip for me.

The remainder of the route, as they say, is all downhill. Follow the faint user trail down to Peak Lake where you regain the maintained trail system. Climb up and over Shannon Pass before reconnecting with the Highline / Continental Divide Tail. This section of the route (along the CDT) is very exposed. The trail grade is not challenging; however, I completed this during the middle of Day 2 and it was very hot. A hat, sun hoody, and sunscreen would be very helpful. Thankfully, water is abundant. 

At Summit Lake, you will leave the CDT to complete the loop along Summit Lake and Long Lake Trails. Along the way, there are many lakes to camp at. After logging 18.6 miles on Day 2, I set up camp at Trapper Lake. There is a sandy beach along the north side of the lake that was unfortunately occupied by other campers when I arrived. I found a more secluded campsite along the western shore and spent the evening rehydrating myself and my dog with plenty of electrolytes.

Wildfire smoke had blown in on my final day as I left Trapper Lake. I began the steep descent (2,300 feet) to Pine Creek, where I refilled water, before a final climb (1,800 feet) back to my car.

How to Get to Titcomb Basin Loop

Closest Major City: Pinedale, Wyoming

Elkhart Park – Pole Creek Trailhead is the most direct route to reach Titcomb Basin. The Elkhart Park recreation area is a 15-mile drive from Pinedale (25-30 minutes). Pick up any last-minute snacks you need at Obo’s Market and Deli before you head up the mountain. There is a large parking area at the trailhead with vaulted toilets but no fresh drinking water. Trails End Campground has 8 sites and operates on a first-come, first-serve basis ($12/night).

When to Hike the Titcomb Basin Loop

Midsummer to early fall is the best time to hike in the Winds. The route travels between 9,000 to 12,000 feet elevation and annual snowfall is an important consideration when timing your hike. Snow may linger at high elevations late into the summer. Labor Day was an ideal time. I encountered no snow on the trail (avoiding the small snowfield on Knapsack Col), negligible bugs, and several late wildflowers.

Even in summer months, make sure you prepare for mountain weather as rain and thunderstorms can develop quickly, and overnight temperatures may drop significantly.

Titcomb Basin Loop Terrain

Much of the route is well marked, graded, and easy to follow. You will encounter some rocky sections, and should expect several long, sustained climbs. The most challenging section of this hike is the off-trail route over Knapsack Col. I recommend tackling this section early in the morning while your legs are fresh and the sun is still low in the sky.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Leave No Trace

Permits: None! Titcomb Basin and the surrounding area are part of the Bridger-Teton National Forest (Bridger Wilderness). Permits are only required for organized groups. Check the US Forest Service website for additional details.

Camping: Bridger Wilderness regulations (and Leave No Trace principles) specify that campsites must be at least 200 feet away from a lakeshore or trail, and 100 feet away from a stream, creek, or spring. It is always best to look for existing-use sites. Mind these regulations if you plan to set up camp at Titcomb Basin; these sites can be difficult to find. Many spots that appear to be existing camp sites around Titcomb Lakes are illegal (given the 200-foot rule). It’s also worth checking above Titcomb Lakes at Mistake Lake, where a few additional sites exist.

Food Storage: Black bears and grizzly bears are present in the Bridger Wilderness and proper food storage is required. Since many areas of the route (including Titcomb Basin) are above treeline, a hard-sided bear canister is recommended. I use the BearVault BV500, which is large enough to carry a few days’ of food, plus toiletries, dog food, and trash at night.

Campfires: Campfires are permitted only below timberline. Cutting or removing standing wood is not allowed. Use established fire rings, pans, or mound fires where fires are permitted.

Know Before You Go

Weather: Weather conditions and temperatures can change rapidly in the Winds. Check forecasts leading up to your trip, but also prepare for wet, windy, or generally colder-than-expected weather. Mountain-forecast.com is a great resource to get localized weather forecasts for the Wind River Range, which allows you to search weather by mountain peak (e.g., Fremont Peak, which towers over Titcomb Basin).

Bears: There is a possibility of encountering black and grizzly bears in the Winds. Carry bear spray and know how to use it. I also like to carry a bear bell. I can’t guarantee the effectiveness, but they are cheap, lightweight, and easier to use than trying to talk to yourself to make noise.

Water: Water is plentiful along the Titcomb Basin Loop. Treat all water with portable water filters, chemical methods, or by boiling. I prefer the Katadyn BeFree Water Filtration System that doubles as a water reservoir.

Off-Trail Navigation: The route described should only be attempted by experienced hikers. That said, Knapsack Col is manageable as a beginner / intermediate off-trail route. The climb is steep, and you will be carrying your backpacking gear, so expect a slower pace. You should be comfortable reading the terrain and have access to both paper maps and electronic navigation systems.

Hiking Titcomb Basin with a Dog: Dogs are allowed in the Bridger Wilderness but should be under control at all times and kept away from other people and wildlife. I have a reactive dog and found the majority of pet owners were allowing their dogs to hike off-leash. This made me very nervous for the safety of my dog, for the safety of their dogs, and for the safety of wildlife in general.

My dog is an experienced backpacker. She was able to navigate the Class II scramble approach to Knapsack Col quite effectively but struggled on the loose talus toward the top of the climb. We encountered another backpacker with a dog (wearing boots) coming up the col from the west side. This route is attainable but challenging for both two- and four-legged friends.

Resources

Bridger Wilderness Regulations (website)

Local weather for Fremont Peak (website)

Inger Appanaitis lives in Northern Colorado and recreates throughout the Mountain West. Her home base includes Rocky Mountain National Park and the Indian Peaks Wilderness. She enjoys thinking about, planning, and executing long days on the trail. Follow along for dogs, training, and the outdoors @ingerfied

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Region: New England (Nahmakanta Public Lands, Maine)
Length: ~30 miles (2-4 days)

Physical Difficulty: Easy

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

Season: Spring, summer, fall

Total Elevation Gain: ~3,000 feet

Hiking The Great Circle Trail

The Great Circle Trail links 14 miles of new trails with existing trails in Maine’s Nahmakanta Public Lands, 43,000 acres of state-owned wilderness within the vast 100-Mile Wilderness. The trail connects seven pond-side campsites with options for exploring side trails that lead to other ponds deep in the wilderness.

The route was conceived in 2005 and finished in fall 2021, linking the Turtle Ridge Loop Trail, the Debsconeag Backcountry Trail, and two sections of the Appalachian Trail with newly carved-out sections. Seven primitive campsites are on ponds along the trail, making this an easy loop hike taking 2 to 4 days. The highest mountain on the loop is tree-covered Wadleigh Mountain at 1,866 feet.

The new trail sections are clearly marked as the Great Circle Trail, but the established sections carry their original names, making it difficult to know that you’re on the right path. Trail creator Jay Hall, whom I met during my hike, says GCT signs with mileage will be put on the older, established trails.

I used the Nahmakanta Public Lands map to follow the route, but still missed a trail turnoff at one junction. The new and established sections of the Great Circle Trail are marked with blue blazes, but so are other trails throughout the area. And the AT is white-blazed, with no indication that the GCT follows it.

I hiked the loop going counterclockwise in four days, taking my time to explore side trails to ponds, Tumbledown Dick Falls, and viewpoints, and climbing the rocky ledges of Turtle Ridge for a view of Sing Sing Pond below. The trail could be hiked in as few as two days, but what’s the rush?

Day 1: Park at the Turtle Ridge Loop Trailhead on Jo-Mary Road, and turn left (north) out of the parking lot onto the road. The Great Circle Trail-Tumbledown Section enters the woods on the right after about 100 feet and is marked with a sign. After about half a mile you’ll pass Leavitt Pond and a small campsite. Shortly afterward is the Tumbledown Dick Pond campsite, and a short distance later is Tumbledown Dick Falls. I recommend hiking a steep ~400 feet down a side trail to a pool at the base of the falls, especially on a hot day when you could take a cool dip.

The Tumbledown Section soon ends at the AT. Turn left (north) onto the AT and follow the white blazes to a dirt road on the south shore of Nahmakanta Lake. The AT continues straight, but GCT hikers turn right on the road, following a sign that points to the Debsconeag Backcountry. There are no blazes on the road. After about a mile reach a parking area on the left, where a sign points to the blue-blazed trail through the Debsconeag Backcountry. Follow the trail past Fifth Debsconeag Pond, over a small ridge, and drop down to Sixth Debsconeag Pond and a campsite on its shores.

Day 2: Continue following the Debsconeag Backcountry Trail, eventually turning away from Sixth Debsconeag Pond and crossing a low ridge to 1,100-acre Nahmakanta Lake. Follow the trail past the north shore of the lake and bear left at a sign for the West Trailhead. Shortly after crossing a log bridge the trail splits, and both trails have blue blazes. Bear left to stay on the GCT; the trail to the right continues to Eighth Debsconeag Pond.

Ford Rainbow Stream a short distance later, and then turn right on a dirt road. Reach the white-blazed AT after about half a mile and turn left on the AT. Right on the AT heads north to Katahdin.

The AT runs alongside Pollywog Gorge, and soon after the gorge you’ll turn right at a GCT-Pollywog Section sign. Once again you’ll be following the blue blazes of the GCT. The trail passes Pollywog Pond and eventually reaches the Pollywog Pond South Campsite.

Not long after Pollywog Pond the trail comes out to a dirt road on the north end of Wadleigh Pond. Turn right here and cross the pond outlet bridge. Left after the bridge leads to the group campsite and tent platform on the pond and right continues on the trail. There are two shelters and an old stone fireplace and chimney at the group campsite in a meadow, and a tent platform in the woods. Wood steps lead down to the pond and a great view.

Day 3: A woods road behind the shelters leads back to the trail, where you’ll bear left. After a short distance bear left again, following GCT signs. At another woods road bear left, and then make a quick right. The climb to tree-lined Wadleigh Mountain is moderate, and a side trail below the summit leads to a view of Katahdin.

The descent from the summit is briefly steep, then levels out through wet areas near Third Musquatch Pond. A short trail at the pond’s southern end leads to the Third Musquatch Pond campsite.

Continue on the GCT to the Katahdin View parking area, bear left onto the road and then right into the woods. Follow the GCT to the junction with the Turtle Ridge Loop Trail, where you’ll bear right. Shortly afterward cross the Sing Sing Pond outlet and bear left to the campsite. It’s about 3 miles from the campsite to the car, easily done in 90 minutes. I chose to camp at the pond and climb the Turtle Ridge Trail to Turtle Ridge and a great view of the pond.

Day 4: It’s ~3 smooth miles to your car on Jo-Mary Road. Continue alongside the pond and turn left at the sign for Rabbit Pond, then right at a second sign for Rabbit Pond. At this second junction I went left on day 3 to climb Turtle Ridge. The GCT crosses steppingstones at the Rabbit Pond outlet and climbs gradually along ledges, where you’ll have to keep an eye out for the East Trailhead sign on the left. (This where I missed the sign and continued straight by mistake.) After this junction it’s a quick walk to the road, where you’ll turn left to reach the parking lot a short distance away.

How to Get to the Great Circle Trail

Easiest Access: Turtle Ridge Loop Trailhead on Jo-Mary Road in the Nahmakanta Public Lands. I plugged Turtle Ridge Loop Trailhead into Google Maps and followed the directions from my home in Connecticut to the trailhead.

Katahdin View Trailhead: Located here on Google Maps.

From Greenville: This state brochure has complicated directions from Greenville.

Closest Towns: Millinocket, Greenville, Brownville

When to Hike the Great Circle Trail

The trail can be hiked June through October, though September and early October are probably the best months. June can be brutally buggy, and July and August can be uncomfortably hot and humid. The weather cools and the bugs mostly disappear in September and October. Light snow is possible in late September and early October, and heavier snow is always a chance in late October.

Great Circle Trail Terrain

The tread is mostly soft pine duff, with some rooty and rocky sections. There’s very little elevation gain, making this a great trail for a relaxing hike.

Logistics: Camping, Fees, Water

Camping: Seven pond-side campsites are spaced less than ~8 miles apart; Wadleigh Pond with its two shelters and wide open pond access is the jewel of the sites. Camping is free at all sites, and all have fire rings, pit toilets, and water access; some have picnic tables.

Hiking counterclockwise from the Turtle Ridge Loop Trail parking area the campsites are at Leavitt Pond, Tumbledown Dick Pond, Sixth Debsconeag Pond, Pollywog Pond, Wadleigh Pond (referred to as group site on signs), Third Musquatch Pond, and Sing Sing Pond.

Fees: Jo-Mary Road is a private road maintained for commercial logging, and recreational users pay a fee. Find information about the road here. There’s a checkpoint registration and pay station just north of the Jo-Mary Road junction with Route 11, and from there it’s a slow 16 miles to the Turtle Ridge Loop Trailhead parking. Logging trucks travel fast on the dirt road so it’s best to keep to the right and be alert.

Water: Every campsite is on a pond, which makes gathering water for meals easy, and there are frequent stream crossings. I carried a liter of water, filling up as needed when I passed a pond or stream.

Great Circle Trail Know Before You Go

Fishing: Because the ponds are close together it’s possible to arrive at camp early and spend time fishing. Information about Maine fishing licenses is here.

Maps: The GCT is marked on a map of the Nahmakanta Public Lands found here.

Trail History: Work on the GCT started in 2005 under the guidance of Jay Hall, Maine Parks and Lands’ Nahmakanta Unit forester, with help from the Maine Conservation Corps, the Maine Appalachian Trail Club, Caribou Parks & Recreation Department, and Unity College. Several years ago professional trail contractors were brought in. The trail opened in September 2021.

Jay says his trail planning, construction and maintenance experience in California, Oregon, Colorado, New Hampshire and Maine allowed him to pioneer trail routes efficiently, saving time that he needed for his timber management obligations in Nahmakanta. His youngest son helped finish some key projects, such as packing in and installing 120 trail signs and building the stone staircase at Wadleigh outlet.

Now retired, he plans to volunteer a few days each year to complete some items left from the final “punch list” of trail work.

Some of that work involves putting up GCT trail signs on old trails, and moving the trail off Fourth Debsconeag Lake Road from Nahmakanta Stream Bridge to the southeast Debsconeag trailhead. Because the bridge is in the AT corridor, relocating the trail will require coordination with MATC and National Park Service staff.

About the Nahmakanta Public Lands: The state-owned land encompasses 43,000 acres of forests and low mountains, streams and brooks coursing down steep slopes and running through narrow gorges, 24 ponds covering 10 or more acres, and more than 50 miles of undeveloped shoreline. Within the Nahmakanta Public Lands is Maine’s largest ecological reserve, 11,802 acres that include much of the 9,200-acre roadless area known as the Debsconeag Backcountry. Read the state’s brochure about the land here. Note that the map with this brochure does not show the new sections of the GCT

About the 100-Mile Wilderness: Since the Appalachian Mountain Club began its Maine Woods Initiative in 2003, the organization has acquired and permanently protected more than 100,000 acres of forest and fish habitat in Maine’s 100-Mile Wilderness. The Wilderness stretches from Monson, Maine, to Baxter State Park, and surrounds the GCT. The AT is the most popular trail for hiking through the Wilderness.

Resources

North Maine Woods

Download a map of the trail here

Check the weather forecast here.

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Granite Peak is a stunning mountain nestled in the Beartooth Mountains of South Central Montana. The peak is the highest point in the state at 12,799 feet. The standard approach is accessed via an out-and-back route starting at the popular West Rosebud Trailhead to Mystic Lake.

Region: Mountain West (Custer Gallatin National Forest, Montana)
Distance: 25 miles (round trip)
Season: Summer
Total elevation gain: 6,300 feet

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Steep hiking and scrambling at high elevation
• Class 4 climbing, with possible class 5 moves
• Relentless loose talus/rock fields

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate 

• No permit needed
• Water on route 
• Navigation skills necessary

Hiking the West Rosebud/Phantom Creek Trail to Granite Peak

The West Rosebud Trail is a highly approachable 3-mile section of this hike, on one of the most popular trails in Montana. The West Rosebud Trail begins at the power plant, then ascends through the forest to a rocky overlook before descending to Mystic Lake. Once at the lake, continue for another ½ mile before turning left onto the Phantom Creek Trail, marked with a wooden sign. 

If you read any other information for this trail, this is where you will start to encounter mentions of the “Switchbacks from Hell.” When first reading that name, I was prepared for a heinous sloped scree field. It turns out this is not the case at all,  and if I named this section, I would have called it “Just a Lot of Switchbacks, but it’s Actually Quite Pleasant.”

You will gain nearly 3,000 feet in around two miles, but you will do so on a level and well-maintained trail while bearing witness to a gorgeous, postcard-worthy scene as you rise above the lake, and eventually above treeline. (Pro tip: If you get bored, start counting the switchbacks with fun names, as I did. I counted 28 and named each one. E.g., 10 is Bien, 17: Yas Kween, 24: Just a few more!) 

Once you pass the switchbacks, you can gain the Froze to Death (FTD) plateau. There are multiple ways to do this, but there is a worn path marking a popular exit from the Phantom Creek Trail just past the switchbacks. This path will end shortly, and no dedicated trail exists from this point onward. Here is a good place to start using your navigation tools. I recommend using a GPX track on a mapping platform (I use Gaia, but OnX is another good option) to guide your path.

While the plateau has some visual landmarks and cairns, it can be easy to get turned around. Be sure to stay right of the gravelly peaks, including Froze to Death Peak, while you traverse the plateau. You will find water from snowmelt along the plateau as you continue on toward the Tempest/Granite area. The FTD plateau will not be the relief you are seeking from the switchbacks, as you continue to gain significant elevation as you inch closer to Granite. Parties that choose to do Granite in three or more days will camp along this first section of the plateau. Look for built windbreaks in a semi-protected natural dip in the plateau.

As you approach the Tempest mountain area, you will see a crest with a large cairn. The descent after this crest is the beginning of the Granite climbing approach. There are no comfortable camping locations past this point unless you want to snuggle with loose rock on a steep slope. Instead, there will be a large rock wind shelter area near the crest. This is your best location for camping the night before the summit as it provides the best launching point for the traverse to the Tempest/Granite saddle and to Granite Peak.

Note: If you or anyone in your party is not prepared to climb Granite, Tempest Mountain is highly attainable and walkable from this location. This non-technical peak is just 400 feet lower than Granite and will offer incredible views of the peak and surrounding wilderness. Some folks will camp lower than the crest; if you do, be sure to mark your location so you can easily find it again after your summit, and skip spending 1.5 hours wandering the homogeneous surface of the plateau looking for your gear (no, not speaking from experience, why would you ask?).

On your summit day, you will top the crest, and descend/traverse toward the saddle between Tempest and Granite. There is a faint trail marked by cairns through 3rd and 4th class terrain. At the saddle, you will cross the saddle ridge and continue to follow a faint climber’s trail toward the summit. Depending on conditions and snow, you can also forgo the trail to scramble the saddle ridge here—continuous 4th-class scrambling on blocky granite. The climber’s trail below the ridge and climbers left is much faster if open.

Continue on this trail until you can see the snow bridge, a narrow area before several 4th-class chimneys. Late season, this will be a loose, gravelly saddle. Take a minute here to plan your route across the snow bridge and through the chimney systems. You will pass the first rappel anchors as you navigate the chimneys toward a notch, staying left of the rock with an “X” feature, clearly visible before crossing the snow bridge. Once past the notch, you will downclimb a bit and be able to view the final summit face.

Start your final ascent near a large boulder with a horizontal crack scrambling up 4th class between two chimney features. You will see rappel stations on these pitches as well. Continue left along an exposed bouldery ledge and continue to a conspicuous keyhole feature near the top of the face. Climb LEFT of the keyhole to avoid 5th class moves, and scramble the last few blocky moves to the summit. Sign the register and lie on the summit block like the little sun lizard that you are (or cloud lizard, or snow lizard, or sleet lizard, depending on conditions). 

Descent: Put that thing down, flip it, and reverse it! Be sure to pay close attention (and look behind you) to notable features as you climb up to help speed up your descent. There are cairns marking several “paths,” and it’s easy to take a different way down. I would recommend a 60- or 70-meter rope to avoid multiple rappels on the face section. Be sure to inspect each anchor and either avoid it or add additional slings/rap rings if it looks unsafe/chewed up. If you are comfortable downclimbing these sections, this will be much faster than rappels. 

EDITORS NOTE: We mention it several times in this article, but it bears repeating here as well—this is a highly technical route that requires, at minimum, advanced scrambling skills, and is probably best suited to hikers with climbing, mountaineering, and off-trail navigational skills. You’ve been warned.

Permits: No permit needed.

Getting to Granite Peak via West Rosebud Trailhead

Nearest City: Red Lodge, Montana (43 miles)

The West Rosebud Trailhead is accessible by car, and you are able to park overnight or for several nights at the designated parking lot. Note as of 9/18/2022: Due to flooding in the area, the original trailhead access is closed until bridges can be restored. Parking is 0.65 miles before the trailhead, and access by foot is permitted.

When to hike Granite Peak via West Rosebud Trailhead

Mid to late summer is the best time to attempt this peak. While attempts have been made year-round, please consider your abilities as a mountaineer or alpinist if attempting to bag this peak in any other season. There is a small snow bridge that usually remains in until the end of the summer, so check current conditions to determine what gear you may need. Weather is always a factor on the exposed plateau and peak, so be prepared with sufficient rain gear and warm/dry layers. A wind layer is also recommended.

Granite Peak via West Rosebud Trailhead Terrain 

West Rosebud Trail: Maintained and well-marked trail starting at the power plant. Dirt and rocky trail through forest along the creek. 

Phantom Creek: Well-traveled trail, mostly level with dirt and gravel. 

Froze to Death Plateau: Mixed rock and vegetated tundra. Uneven, with no clear trail. 

Climber’s Trail to Summit: Relentless talus, some loose granite scrambling, and class 4 (possibly low 5th class) granite face to the summit. 

Logistics for Granite Peak via West Rosebud Trailhead

Resupply: No resupply is possible on this route. Only self-supported travel in this zone unless you’re friends with a helicopter pilot.

Camping and Permits: No permits are necessary. There are official campsites at Mystic Lake, then dispersed camping on the plateau, including built-up windbreaks. It is highly recommended to camp at the windbreaks right before cresting to the saddle of Tempest Peak and Granite Peak. This will give you a great launching point for your summit bid.

What Type of Land: Land acknowledgement: These recreation trails are on native Apsáalooke (Crow) lands. 

Custer Gallatin National Forest: West Rosebud Trail to Mystic Lake

Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness: Phantom Creek Trail, Froze to Death Plateau, and Granite Summit

Curious about the difference between wilderness area and national forest designations? Check out this article from Nature. 

Water: No water from the 4th switchback on Phantom Creek Trail to the FTD plateau.

Water from snowmelt consistently on FTD plateau, but always check local information if going late season.

Special Gear: The technicality of climbing Granite Peak depends on the conditions and the amount of experience as a hiker or mountaineer. In the early seasons, be sure to bring crampons and an ice axe, as the snow bridge will likely still be in. Snow travel skills are necessary. 

For all seasons, bring rain gear, layers, a helmet, and shoes with high-friction rubber (approach shoes recommended).

Consider bringing a rope, harness, lockers, belay device, prusik, extra webbing, and even a few pieces of protection. If you are an avid climber and mountaineer and are comfortable pulling (and downclimbing) lower 5th-class moves in highly exposed terrain, this gear may not be necessary. Consider the skills and comfort level of your whole crew before ditching extra gear.

Know Before You Go

• This route, while highly attainable, should not be underestimated. The approach is gnarly. The plateau is exposed, and afternoon storms are frequent.
•  Granite summit bids are the reason for multiple search and rescue calls each summer. Don’t be caught unprepared—this is not a walk-up. Be prepared to navigate on the plateau in any conditions. Bring a SPOT or InReach as an emergency backup. 
• There are cairns everywhere on the plateau and summit trails. DO NOT rely solely on cairns to navigate, as there are multiple trails. Be thoughtful in considering your route.
• This is grizzly bear and mountain goat country. Bring bear spray and supplies to hang a bear bag if camping low. Beware of mountain goats while camping on the plateau, as they like to lick the salt from urine. Make sure to urinate a safe distance from your campsite as they will be sure to pay you(r pee) a visit. 

Resources

• Granite Peak Summit Post page  for detailed climbing ascent beta and photos
• Beartooth Publishing: Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness Map
• Roscoe’s Grizzly Bar for a post-summit burger

Dawn Brintnall is a retired old sea captain, outdoor enthusiast, and writer living in Red Lodge, Montana. Her favorite activities include battling ye olde salty sea, climbing, and mountain biking. Usually, you can find her tutoring disadvantaged dolphins or walking around muttering about “gold in them hills.” 

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The Waterville Valley Skyline Loop is a challenging New Hampshire hike, covering 15 trails and nine peaks. The entire loop is roughly 34 miles long and has about 10,150 feet of elevation gain. This is not for the faint of heart, but the rewards are worth the effort.

Region: New England (White Mountain National Forest, New Hampshire)
Distance: 34 miles, 2-4 days

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Weather changes in the White Mountains must be monitored
• Rocky climbs for the ascents of Mt. Tecumseh, Mt. Osceola, East Osceola and North Tripyramid.  
• The slides on North and South Tripyramid should be navigated with care only in dry conditions.
• Cumulative elevation makes for near continuous climbing

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

• Livermore Trailhead provides a perfect spot for either a one-day trip or multi-day trip. Using a car as a midpoint allows hikers to carry less gear if they desire.
• No resupply options – pack what you need in your car.
• No permit required; however, parking must be paid for at Livermore Trailhead if you do not have a White Mountain National Forest parking permit ($5/day at the iron ranger).

Season: Summer, early fall

Elevation (average): ~2,500 feet
Total Elevation Gain: ~10,150 feet

Hiking the Waterville Valley Skyline Loop

The Waterville Valley Skyline Loop is not comprised of new trails; in fact many of them can be found in the Appalachian Mountain Club White Mountain Guide.  The Loop strings together trails from the AMC guide, Waterville Valley cross-country ski routes, and Tripoli Road.  The intention of the established loop is to bring hikers to the Waterville Valley area, a less popular area than Franconia Ridge or the Pemigewasset Wilderness. This area also doesn’t get as much attention from hikers as the Presidentials to the northeast.  While this is a quiet, desirable feature of these trails and mountains, the community is eager to share it with others.

I have hiked the Skyline Loop in a variety of ways. I did this intentionally so I could experience it from both the overnight hiker and day hiker perspective. This loop is traditionally hiked clockwise starting with Mt. Tecumseh. I never hike without checking the mountain weather forecast from a variety of sources, including the National Weather Service Recreational Report for higher summits. Since these peaks are in the 4,000-foot ballpark, this forecasting is reliable. That said, prepare for all weather conditions in the Whites regardless of season. My kit includes rain layers, warm layers, hat, and gloves … even in the summer. 

Overnight Trip on the Waterville Valley Skyline Loop

I gathered a few friends for a 20-mile backpacking trip of the west loop. The weather forecast was for the 60s during the day and high 40s at night.  We started at the Livermore Trailhead and headed to Mt. Tecumseh by taking the Pipeline Trail to the Waterville Valley Resort and the location of the Mt. Tecumseh Trailhead.  This mountain is frequently hiked.  The trailhead has received a lot of work over the years, which includes the installation of the longest set of stairs I have ever seen.  We summited, had a snack and headed down toward Tripoli Road.  We were banking on refilling our water at the brook near the Tecumseh Trailhead at Tripoli Road and were rewarded with a flowing stream, despite dry conditions.  We loaded up knowing water would be scarce until the Greeley Ponds area.

We headed east on Tripoli Road for just over a one-mile dirt road walk.  I was surprised to pass open campsites along the road on this busy Saturday in August.  These are first-come, first-serve spots that would make a great camping option for this area if you don’t want to deal with White Mountain National Forest Backcountry Camping Rules. If you plan on staying on Tripoli Road, make sure you check in with the caretaker and pay the fee. This area can be challenging to tent camp due to the terrain. Hammock campers will have an easier time setting up and following the strict rules. Other camping options include Osceola Vista Campground on Tripoli Road. This campground has a combination of reservable and first-come, first-serve sites. The same goes for Waterville Campground, a short drive from this area.

Our hike up Mt. Osceola was gradual and comfortable with an overnight pack. The open summit is 2.9 miles from the trailhead and easily one of the best vistas on this hike. We took some time for a snack before heading over to East Osceola.  You will descend the famous chimney between the peaks.  On this day, we chose the bypass because we had overnight packs.  We made short work of this section and summited East Osceola quickly.  This treed-in summit has a cairn to signify the top.

The descent down the Mt. Osceola trail to the Greeley Ponds Trail is steep and unrelenting for just over a mile—in some spots the grade is over 25%. The trail eases up substantially as you come into the Greeley Ponds Scenic Area.  We hooked a right onto the Greeley Ponds Trail looking for flowing water. We passed by the Greeley Ponds, considering filtering from here but decided to take our chances on hitting flowing water at Mad River. We were thrilled to see the water was flowing nicely a few tenths of a mile south of Lower Greeley Pond. We stocked up for the night and set to work locating our camping location for the night.  We set up off the Greeley Ponds Trail, in keeping with backcountry camping principles, a few miles from the Livermore Trailhead, making for an easy walk out in the morning and a total of 20 miles for the west side of the Skyline Loop.

Tripyramids

There is such versatility with this loop. Livermore Trailhead makes a perfect spot for resupply if you plan on doing this in two-plus days. You can also hike part of the loop from this lot. The Tripyramids are a staple for any Northeast hiker checking off their 48 4,000-footers. The Skyline Loop recommends use of the Scaur Trail, giving hikers a gentle ascent to access North Tripyramid.  If you are feeling adventurous, take the detour and do the North Slide.  Be prepared for hand-over-hand climbing and tricky rock wall navigation.  You will be rewarding with breathtaking views and a badge of honor.  DO NOT attempt North Slide if it’s raining or the slabs have a chance of being wet.  Also, do not go down North Slide.  To follow the loop on the map, go up Scaur Ridge Trail to North Tripyramid, travel across the relatively tame and treed ridge walk and down the South Slide.  South Slide has a fair amount of scree, but it is manageable and short.

Kettle’s Path, Irene’s Path, Old Skidder Trail and Snows Mountain

I had not seen this section of the trail before preparing to write this article, and I will certainly go back. I parked at Livermore Trailhead on a beautiful Saturday, and I was surprised to not be sharing these sections of trail with another soul. I took all side trail options, which gave me a breathtaking view of Waterville Valley from the Scaur. I also visited the Flume Spur off the intersection of Irene’s Path and Old Skidder Trail. The water must rage here in spring and the rock chimney is worth checking out. Old Skidder Trail is not used much, so just a faint footpath remains. This entire area is connected by a system of “roads.” Essentially these are carriage roads used for mountain biking and cross-country skiing.  After exploring these sections, I filtered water from Slide Brook and took the carriage road over to get on the Snows Mountain Trail, then hiked toward Snows Mountain clockwise. My ascent was nearly 1,000 feet, and the summit has an overgrown outlook, but if you continue clockwise on your descent, you will come to a second outlook over Waterville Valley.  Heading down this way was much tamer.

How to get to the Waterville Valley Skyline Loop

Nearest Town: Waterville Valley

Located off Tripoli Road, Livermore Trailhead is prime for accessing this area.  Waterville Valley is a quaint town, with coffee shops and a country club.  The mountains and skiing are a major draw in this area.  Note: Tripoli Road is closed in the winter, so Livermore Trailhead may be accessed through the village of Waterville Valley.

When to Hike the Waterville Valley Skyline Loop

Fair weather hikers will want to stick to the warmer months of late May through early October.  Year-round hikers, with proper gear, including snowshoes and microspikes, will be able to enjoy some of these trails.  Enjoyment in the winter is limited by your interest in properly breaking trail in snowshoes, and experience is necessary. Please do not walk down the middle of the groomed cross-country trails in the winter!  

In clear weather, hikers will be rewarded with amazing views of the Whites.  As always, check the weather forecast (see below) and turn around if conditions deteriorate beyond your ability to stay safe. 

Waterville Valley Skyline Loop Terrain 

The bulk of this loop is classic White Mountain National Forest terrain.  Rocks, roots, and slabs dot most of the trails. The cross-country trails are a nice break on the legs. I always say the Whites are not for the faint of heart, so be prepared to work for all of your elevation gain, especially with a heavy pack.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water and Gear

Permits:  The Waterville Valley Skyline Loop is located in the White Mountain National Forest.  A permit for parking can be obtained ahead of time.  Otherwise, pay the $5 at the Livermore Trailhead parking lot.  The same goes for other lots located on this loop and managed by the WMNF.

Camping: While camping is permitted, you must follow White Mountain National Forest Backcountry Camping Rules. The terrain here is brutal for tent camping. Rocks and roots making finding a flat spot nearly impossible. Experienced backpackers may find a place to camp around 2,500 feet in some places.  Hammock campers will do best on this loop.  Established camping areas in close proximity include:

Tripoli Road Camping Area. Fee required and may be sold out early in the day in the summer.

Osceola Vista Campground

Waterville Campground

Water: Water is plentiful despite the moderate drought in this area in 2022.  While it looks clean and is flowing, filter or treat it! I carried 1.5 liters most of the time, filling up with extra at Mad River for the overnight.  You will not find water up high (over 2,000 feet in most places), so grab water when you can. 

Special Gear: 

• Poles are invaluable in this terrain
• Paper map and Gaia GPS with downloaded maps.
• Ten Essentials for Hiking

Know Before You Go

Waterville Valley Recreation Department did a great job stringing together existing trails to create an adventure for day hikers and backpackers alike. I was impressed with how quiet the eastern side of the trail was (with the exception of the Tripyramids). I love the versatility of the trail system in that it provides day and overnight options if you plan well.  

Resources

Waterville Valley Skyline Loop: Information and map 

White Mountain National Forest Camping 

National Weather Service Recreational Report: For the White Mountains

Hiker friendly campgrounds:

Osceola Vista Campground 

Waterville Campground

Tripoli Road Camping Area

Appalachian Mountain Club White Mountain Guide and maps

Gaia GPS

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The Sioux-Hustler trail is a 34-mile loop in northern Minnesota. This trail is within the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW). It features beaver dam crossings, two waterfalls, and plentiful water sources.

Region: Great Lakes Midwest (Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, Superior National Forest, Minnesota)
Length: 34 miles (3-4 days)
Season: Late Spring, Late Summer, Early Fall
Total Elevation Gain: 3,000 feet

Physical Difficulty: Easy

• Rocky and rooty terrain
• Beaver dam crossings
• A few steep but short climbs and descents

Logistical Difficulty: High

• Route not marked
• Permit required
• Remote trailhead

Hiking the Sioux Hustler Trail

The Sioux-Hustler Trail is a great option for intermediate backpackers. The footpath crosses over beaver dams, features two waterfalls, and passes many water sources.

Three friends and I backpacked this loop clockwise in September 2020. Our first night was near the Devil’s Cascade waterfall and subsequent nights were on the shores of Emerald and Shell Lakes. We shared a campsite one night with two smaller backpacking parties.

We heard wolves most nights. We followed a portage to Loon Lake, where we noted moose tracks on the shoreline and said hello to Canada. Occasional fallen trees and six hours of rain made for a challenging second day.

I lost cell service about 30 minutes before arriving at the trailhead. The footpath was not blazed on trees, which caused occasional navigation challenges; cairns and cut logs helped confirm the correct path. There were also beaver dam crossings (a misstep on one ended in knee-deep mud).

Resupply is not an option, as this trail is only accessible by boat or foot. This is a shorter route, so resupply shouldn’t be needed.

How to get to the Sioux-Hustler Trail

Nearest City: Orr, Minnesota (38 miles)
Trailhead: Sioux Hustler Hiking Trail

The Sioux-Hustler trail is a lollipop loop. From the trailhead, it’s about six miles by foot to where the loop begins; go left for a clockwise trip or go right for a counterclockwise trip.

The Sioux-Hustler trailhead (BWCAW entry point 15) is 38 miles northeast of Orr, Minnesota, on US Forest Service roads. You can park overnight at the trailhead.

The nearest airports are Duluth and Minneapolis. Orr is about 145 miles north of Duluth and 280 miles north of Minneapolis. Car rentals are available at both airports; shuttle service between Duluth and the trailhead may be an option from some outfitters in Ely. Lodging and camping are available on the way to Orr.

For our trip, we left Minneapolis around 6:30 a.m. on our entry date and started hiking by 12:30 p.m..

When to Hike the Sioux Hustler Trail

The best times to hike this trail are late spring (May to June) and late summer into early fall (August through September).

Spring hikers can expect mud, wet conditions, and some snow well into May. Depending on the year, thaw/refreeze cycles may cause difficult travel on gravel Forest Service roads.

The trail can be hiked in early summer but mosquitoes may take the joy out of it. Ticks are usually the worst in May and June but may be found anytime the temperatures are above freezing.

Depending on the year, trips in late summer and early fall could be impacted by wildfires.

We began our hike in late September 2020. Daytime temperatures reached into the 50s Fahrenheit and overnight temperatures dipped into the upper 30s and 40s. It rained for about six hours on our second day. Fall colors were starting to peak and bugs were not an issue.

It may be possible to hike later than September but be sure to check the forecast and plan accordingly. Depending on the year, early October may see measurable snow and lakes could already be freezing.

Backpacking this route in winter is not advised due to deep snow and extreme temperatures. Some Forest Service roads and trailheads are not accessible in winter.

Sioux-Hustler Trail Terrain 

The trail crosses forested terrain and wetlands. There are beaver dam crossings and occasional fallen trees to navigate.

Sioux-Hustler Trail Permits

Permits are required to enter the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW). 

Overnight trips beginning May 1 to September 30 require quota permits. Quota permits have a fee associated and are sold first-come, first-served. They go on sale the third Wednesday of January each year.

Before reserving a quota permit, you’ll need a recreation.gov account and to know where you will pick up your permit. Here is a list of permit issue stations. I would recommend a station in Duluth or Cook; be sure to confirm hours as some stations may not be open on weekends.

On the BWCAW webpage, click on the “Explore available permits” button in the “Available Permits” section. 

Choose “Overnight Hike” in the filter dropdown and the date you plan to start.

Scroll to the “Sioux-Hustler Trail (OH)” item. Choose your start date in the grid, click the “Book Now” button, and complete your reservation.

Overnight trips in the off-season (October 1 to April 30) require a free, self-issued permit. Complete the form at the trailhead kiosk, leave a copy in the dropbox, and carry the other copy with you.

Logistics: Camping, Land Management, and Route Finding

Camping: Campsites are first-come, first-served and do not need to be shared with other parties. Most campsites are accessible by water and foot; if a site is already occupied, backpackers may be willing to share. To minimize impact, a maximum of 9 people can stay at campsites in the BWCAW; our intended campsite on day two was at maximum with a guided group of backpackers so we pushed on to another site. Campsite spurs are oftent marked with a cairn and/or a wooden marker. Follow LNT principles by trying to stay in established campsites, but if needed, dispersed / stealth camping is allowed for hikers (see page 7 of this handbook).

Land Management: This trail is mostly in a wilderness area on US Forest Service land. There are no amenities at the trailhead. The trail is only accessible by foot or boat and chainsaws are not allowed in the BWCAW, so fallen trees may not be immediately removed after a storm.

Route Finding: I recommend a GPS track or map and compass for this trail. The footpath is not marked, can disappear due to overgrowth, and crosses multiple beaver dams. Cell service was nonexistent. Be aware that the trail intersects with portages, which may or may not show up on certain maps.

Special Gear: I recommend a bug net and treated clothing or other repellent. Ticks and an obnoxious number of mosquitoes will be present, especially in late spring and early summer.

In recent summers, the Superior National Forest has issued orders requiring bear-proof containers. These orders are posted to their website and Facebook page when required, so be sure to check before heading out.

Know Before You Go

Although it isn’t the most physically challenging, I don’t recommend this route for beginners. The trail is not marked and disappears at times. There may be fallen trees to navigate if there have been recent storms and cell service was nonexistent.

Permits are required from May 1 to September 30, so some advance planning is needed, though you don’t need to reserve campsites.

If hiking in the shoulder seasons, be sure to check the forecast; snow may be present well into May and lakes may start freezing over as early as October.

Bear-proof containers may be required if there has been increased black bear activity. Check the Superior National Forest website and Facebook page for updates.

Resources

Sioux-Hustler Trail Permits at recreation.gov

Friends of the Boundary Waters

A list of local outfitters 

Superior National Forest

Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness

Sioux-Hustler Trail

Maps

• Fisher map F-16
• McKenzie maps 12, 13 and 14
• US Forest Service  

Andrea Breitung lives in St. Paul, Minnesota, and is an avid year-round hiker, biker, and camper (yes, even in winter). She started backpacking in 2019 and more recently began dabbling in bikepacking. When she’s not outside, she’s reading, snuggling her dogs, and consuming unhealthy amounts of chocolate.

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The Bear River Range Traverse is a challenging point-to-point backpacking route in Northern Utah that crosses the heart of the Mount Naomi Wilderness. It stitches together multiple on-trail and off-trail segments in the Cache National Forest and can be hiked in 2-4 days.

Region: Mountain West (Cache National Forest, Utah)
Length: 44 miles (2-4 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• This trail features significant elevation gain and loss, including scrambling to peaks near 10,000 feet
• Occasional sections are off-trail or feature faint trails
• Lack of water is a concern in the Bear River Range, requiring attention to the distance between sources

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Route options exist in the area, but exploring the Bear River Range as a multi-day adventure generally requires a car shuttle between trailheads
• Planning is required around water sources, especially on the southern section of the route

Season: Summer and fall
Average Elevation: ~8,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 16,500 feet

Hiking the Bear River Range Traverse

The Bear River Range Traverse is a 44-mile backpacking trail roughly following the crest of the Bear River Range through the Mount Naomi Wilderness. The Bear River Range is a subrange of the Wasatch in Northern Utah and Southern Idaho and features steep limestone peaks, mountain lakes, and sweeping drainages filled with pine and aspen forests. Much of the trail is above treeline and several major summits in the range are directly along the route, with others nearby as scrambly side trips. The range is home to several endemic species and Great Basin ecological diversity. This route will appeal to backpackers looking for a long weekend trip with big views and a sense of solitude along many of its segments, especially during late season. 

This route starts at the Spring Hollow Campground off Highway 89 in Logan Canyon. The route overlaps with the popular Crimson Trail, which highlights the canyon’s limestone walls. After several miles, the route descends and crosses the highway before it climbs to the main ridge and wilderness boundary. From there, hikers follow the steep ridgetop trail and summit Beirdneau Peak, entering the heart of the Mount Naomi Wilderness. Roughly following the ridge, scrambly side trails lead to Mounts Jardine and Elmer, less than 2 trail miles apart. The first reliable water isn’t until Tony Grove Lake, where a campground and trailhead access the wilderness area. From Tony Grove, it’s less than three miles to Naomi Peak, the range’s highest point at 9,979 feet. The most technical side trip on the route is to Mount Magog, a quick Class 3 summit prior to Naomi Peak (you can also just stay on the trail to Naomi). A large sinkhole sits on the ridge between the two peaks, one of numerous sinkholes and caves in the porous limestone of the Bear River Range. 

From Naomi Peak, the trail switches back down the west face of the range into High Creek Canyon, where a reliable stream flows down the drainage from picturesque High Creek Lake. Descending High Creek Canyon leads to another trailhead, and possible exit point via a car shuttle. This route climbs back up to the ridge via the North Fork of High Creek and crosses the Idaho border briefly at the top of the climb. The next section follows an undulating ridge and requires off-trail travel to the remote and seldom-visited Doubletop Mountain. The trail’s final descent rolls down Steam Mill drainage, where reliable water is found most of the year. The route ends at the Franklin Basin Trailhead, just down Logan Canyon from Beaver Mountain Ski Resort.

Getting to the Bear River Range Traverse

Nearest City: Logan, Utah (7 miles from Spring Hollow Campground, 28 miles from Franklin Basin Road)

Southern Terminus: Spring Hollow Campground

Northern Terminus: Franklin Basin Road

Logan sits 80 miles north of Salt Lake City, Utah, at the base of the Bear River Range. It’s 1 hour and 15 minutes from Salt Lake International Airport to Logan via I-15 North and Highway 89/91. Follow Highway 89 into Logan Canyon to access the trailhead termini described above. Numerous other entry and exit points to the area sit conveniently on or near Highway 89 or Highway 91 toward the Idaho border.

Shuttle: The simplest way to hike the Bear River Range Traverse is using a car shuttle between the trailheads. Reaching out to the local outdoor community in Logan is a good option if you don’t have two vehicles (also see: https://hitchwiki.org/en/Utah).

When to Hike the Bear River Range Traverse

This route is best hiked from June to October. Snow in the Mount Naomi Wilderness usually melts out by June and doesn’t return with consistency until November or December (October storms are fairly common, but are generally stand-alone events). July-September can see temperatures near 100 degrees and exposed climbs and ridge walks can bring heat-related challenges. June brings mosquitoes, but the aridity of the range keeps the numbers below considerable levels. Expect cold nights if attempting the route late in the season. 

Bear River Range Traverse Terrain

Much of the Bear River Range Traverse is above treeline and exposed to the Utah sun. The route is generally well-defined. Sections like Beirdneau Ridge, the scramble to Mount Magog, and the Doubletop Ridge feature off or faint trail travel or Class 3 scrambling. Side trips to summit Mount Jardine or Mount Elmer also require scrambling. This route stitches together a number of trails in the Mount Naomi Wilderness; maps or GPS are recommended to ensure correct trails are taken at junctions. Much of the existing signage in the area is aging.

Logistics: Land Designation, Water, Special Gear

Land Designation: The Bear River Range Traverse travels through the Cache National Forest and the Mount Naomi Wilderness. These areas are managed out of the Logan Ranger District, whose offices are at the mouth of Logan Canyon and where hikers can find more information about current conditions. Designated wilderness management emphasizes providing outstanding opportunities for solitude or a primitive and unconfined type of recreation. These qualities abound along this route. Hikers should be respectful of one another and of the sensitive natural resources in the range. Following Leave No Trace practices in campsite selection, wildlife encounters (the range is home to black bear, moose, marmots, pika, deer, elk, and rattlesnakes) and human waste disposal (catholes at least 6 inches deep, pack out toilet paper) is essential. Proper food storage and caution should be exercised. Pit toilets are available at Tony Grove Campground, High Creek Trailhead, and Franklin Basin Trailhead. No permits are required to hike in the Bear Rivers. Tony Grove Campground is a fee area, though the route described above merely passes through it.

Water: Water is not plentiful in the Bear River Range, but can be reliably found at Tony Grove Lake, High Creek Lake, flowing in High Creek Canyon, and along the Steam Mill drainage. The Logan River flows near the beginning of the route if you need to top off before hitting the trail. Treating water in the area is essential. Tony Grove Lake sits 22 miles into the route described here. Water may be found at Cottonwood Spring (17 miles into the route), but relying on this source without consulting the U.S. Forest Service is not recommended. The author of this guide has spent countless hours on desert trails in the Southwest, including the arid Southern California section of the Pacific Crest Trail. The southern section of this route is the only place the author has ever experienced dehydration while temperatures were in the high 90s. Following that experience, the author recommends 6 liters of water to reach Tony Grove Lake from the route start depending on itinerary and prior hydration (more water is recommended if dry camping on this section).

Special Gear: Sunscreen, UPF clothing, and electrolytes are highly recommended. Snow gear, such as an ice axe, may be required in early season travel. Consult the U.S. Forest Service Logan Ranger District for current conditions. 

Know Before You Go

Keep an eye on information from the U.S. Forest Service regarding closures and water availability. Fires are rare in the Bear River Range, but not unheard of. As with any alpine travel, consideration of snow levels and conditions are essential. The Bear River Range is not well-traveled in many areas, so make sure your plans are well-communicated with someone on the outside.

There is cell coverage on the summits overlooking Cache Valley (the author uses Verizon, but this is universal due to the size of the greater Logan population center). These locations include Naomi Peak, Doubletop Mountain, Mount Magog, and Beirdneau Peak.

Be prepared for faint trail navigation and off-trail travel in addition to Class 3 scrambling to reach locations like Mount Jardine, Mount Elmer, and Mount Magog. Be aware of wildlife while hiking as the Bear River Range Traverse travels through bear, moose, and rattlesnake habitat.

Due to remote sections, off-trail travel, a large water carry, and large amounts of elevation gain and loss, this route is not recommended for beginner backpackers.

Resources

Learn about wilderness designation

Regional bus travel (including Logan City and Salt Lake International Airport)

Logan Ranger District

Cache Trails Alliance

Caleb Meyer (he/him) is a hiker and conservation social science researcher based in Utah. In addition to countless hikes, backpacking trips and other generous times in the outdoors, Caleb hiked the Pacific Crest Trail in 2019 and the Colorado Trail in 2021. Outside of long-distance hiking, Caleb spends his time running, skiing, and working in public land management. Follow along on Instagram: @topohikes

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The Old Loggers Path is a moderate 27-mile loop hike in northern Pennsylvania. The loop traverses a primarily wooded area, passing waterfalls and vistas along rolling hills, and can be hiked in 2-3 days. 

Region: Mid-Atlantic (Loyalsock State Forest, Pennsylvania)
Length: 27 Miles (2-3 Days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• Some moderate inclines and declines
• Pleasant Stream might pose a challenge to cross depending on recent rainfall and weather
• Plenty of reliable water sources (some seasonal streams may not be available year-round)

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

• Loop hike with parking at trailhead
• Well-maintained trail with orange blazes
• Dispersed camping allowed throughout with two lean-tos available on a first-come, first-served basis
• Spotty cell phone reception (including from the forest entry to the trailhead parking)
• No permits required

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Total Elevation Gain: 3,727 feet

Hiking the Old Loggers Path

Permits: Not required 

The Old Loggers Path is a lovely 27-mile loop hike that can be completed in either a clockwise or counterclockwise direction over 2-3 days. Our group of 5 hikers (a mix of beginner and moderate skill levels) enjoyed the wooded path, beautiful vistas, creek crossings, and inclines and descents along the way. The trail is very well-maintained and blazed in orange with signage at key intervals, especially when crossing logging roads. 

Our first day took us about 10 miles from the trailhead at Masten Road and Pleasant Stream Road to the creek crossing at Pleasant Stream. There were two notable climbs to Sprout Point Vista (just off trail) and Sharp Top Vista. There is a lean-to near Sprout Point Vista, available on a first-come basis for camping, but no convenient water source. Sharp Top Vista offers impressive views and an excellent opportunity for a snack break. The trail continues downhill from Sharp Top to Pleasant Stream. There are established sites with spots for several tents available on both sides of Pleasant Stream. Depending on the amount of recent rain the stream crossing should be fairly easily, with crossing options both up and down stream. During our crossing, the water was about knee-deep in some spots (for this 5-foot, 4-inch hiker), but not very rapid. Farther up and down stream there were additional crossing options.  

Day two took our group another 10ish miles from Pleasant Stream, up a climb to Sullivan Mountain, then back down (steep at times) to follow Rock Run Stream. The Sullivan Mountain lookout offered another stunning view of the valley, although be sure to follow the trail closely back into the woods as the turn off the road can be easily overlooked. There are many dispersed sites along the trail as you follow Rock Run, in addition to the first-come, first-served Doe Run Shelter (about mile 17). Our group chose a site with waterfall views where Hawk Run meets Rock Run. This site was a bit of a squeeze for three tents, but doable.

Day three was the final seven miles back to the trailhead. The majority of the day was uphill until the final two-mile descent back to the parking lot. Neither of these were especially steep.

Overall, the Old Loggers Path is an excellent loop hike with moderate terrain and convenient logistics that make for a wonderful (long) weekend trip. Be sure to sign the logbooks along the way to help track trail utilization. 

Getting to the Old Loggers Path

Nearest City: Williamsport, Pennsylvania (34 miles south of the trailhead)

Trailhead: Near the Masten Camping Area at the intersection of Masten Road and Pleasant Stream Road. The trailhead is well-marked and there is ample parking space. Masten Camping Area provides some picnic tables and fireplace. Map it here.

When to Hike the Old Loggers Path

Old Loggers Path is best hiked from spring to fall, but can be hiked in winter too. As long as the state forest roads are passable, the trail is accessible. Our group hiked it April 30 to May 2, 2021, and experienced a range of temperatures (sleeting/hail and 30 degrees at night, to sunny and 60 during the day). Bugs will be bothersome in the spring, especially after rainfall, and in the summer be especially aware of rattlesnakes. 

One-Day Itinerary: With an early start and a light pack, this loop can be completed in one day. At least one trail runner passed us doing just this. 

Two-Day Itinerary: Start in either direction and camp at a dry site at Sullivan Mountain (13-14 miles per day).

Three-Day Itinerary: Start clockwise from trailhead at Masten Campground to Pleasant Stream (10 miles). Pleasant Stream to Rock Run Stream (10-11 miles). Rock Run Stream to Masten Campground trailhead (6-7 miles). 

Old Loggers Path Terrain

Old Loggers Path traverses the Loyalsock State Forest and is mostly wooded. There are several vistas overlooking the surrounding rolling hills and valleys in addition to beautiful streams and waterfalls. The trail is very well-maintained with orange blazes. 

Old Loggers Path Logistics: Resupply, Water, Land Management

Logistics are fairly straightforward for this trip. You will need a car to get to the trailhead, but will return to it at the trailhead upon completion of the loop. Expect minimal cell phone coverage once you enter the state forest. 

Resupply Strategy: None needed. There are no convenient access points into any town, nor are they necessary due to the mileage and loop nature of the trail. Plan to carry what you will need for your entire journey. 

Land Type: The Old Loggers Path is entirely contained in the Loyalsock State Forest. There are no fees associated to access the land or trailhead, and camping is readily available. It is on the native land of the Susquehannock people. 

Water Sources: There is year-round reliable water at Pleasant Stream (mile 0, trailhead), Pleasant Stream (mile 10), all along Rock Run (~20) and numerous seasonal streams throughout the trail. Water is typically plentiful with no long carries. 

Know Before You Go

Note that fires are prohibited (with a “soft ban”) in Pennsylvania state forests from March 1 to May 25 due to fire danger. You may receive verbal permission to have a fire during this time frame if weather conditions permit by calling the state forest office at 570-946-4049 prior to your trip. 

Resources: 

• Loyalsock State Forest
• State Forest Hiking Trails
• Old Loggers Path Guide and Map – PAHikes

Rachel began as a weekend warrior backpacker and has since evolved into a 2020 PCT NOGOer and a successful 2021 Colorado Trail thru-hiker. Currently she works full time in Corporate America, eagerly awaiting her next outdoor adventure.

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