Lost Coast Trail

By Kacie Hallahan, 2021 Lost Cost Trail hiker and wilderness ranger

The Lost Coast Trail is a 26.4-mile point-to-point backpacking route along California’s North Coast. It is a rugged trail that traverses sandy beaches, boulder fields, and coastal bluffs, and it can be hiked in 2-3 days

Region: Pacific West (King Range National Conservation Area, California)
Distance: 26.4 miles (2-3 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

Coastal terrain, including sand and slippery boulders
Constant exposure to sun and wind
No significant elevation gain

Logistical Difficulty: Difficult

Wilderness permits required
Need to book a shuttle in advance, set up a key-swap, or park a car at each remote trailhead
Three “impassable zones” that can only be attempted during low tides under 3 feet

Season: Year-round
Elevation (average): Sea level
Total Elevation Gain: 1,000 feet

Lost Coast Trail GPX File Download

Hiking the Lost Coast Trail

The Lost Coast Trail covers 25 miles of undeveloped coastal wilderness, only 5 hours north of the San Francisco Bay Area. This hike is moderately strenuous and is perfect for the hiker who loves a logistical challenge. Starting at Mattole Beach and ending at Black Sands Beach, you will experience breathtaking views of the coast, including the Punta Gorda lighthouse (decommissioned in 1951), bountiful tide pools, and a lively colony of elephant seals.

Based on the strong wind coming from the north, it is usually recommended that hikers follow the trail from north to south. However, if you are looking for a quieter wilderness experience, hiking from south to north may offer you the opportunity to hike and camp away from other groups and is a totally viable option. Each creek offers drastically different camping experiences, from the sunrises and sunsets to the wildlife that frequent that specific stretch of coastline. Wildlife that are often encountered along the trail include sea birds, sea lions, elephant seals, harbor seals, river otters, black bears, blacktail deer, and the occasional Roosevelt elk.

During the summer of 2021, I spent collectively over a month on the Lost Coast Trail as a volunteer. I have hiked a variety of routes utilizing many different trailheads, in various weather conditions, with drastically different itineraries. My most enjoyable jaunt on the LCT, however, was hiking from Mattole to Black Sands with my brother in just a day and a half.

Lost Coast Trail Permits

Wilderness permits are required for any overnight stay in the King Range Wilderness and can be obtained through Recreation.gov. Permits for the entire year (October to October) are released on October 1 at 7am PST, and the summer season is typically booked within a few hours. One person can reserve up to 5 permits for their group. When reserving a permit online, you will need to know which trailheads you plan to enter and exit at and a nightly itinerary for where you plan to camp. While this information is required for the online process, your selections are only used for safety purposes, in case of missing persons reports, or accidents, and will not be enforced by BLM rangers. Once you enter the wilderness area, you have “hiker’s discretion,” meaning that you can choose to hike as far as you want or camp wherever you choose (as long as it is 10 feet above the high tide line). Additionally, this means that you can stay in the King Range Wilderness area for up to 14 days after your permit start date. If you love it out there, extend your trip and explore one of the many inland routes!

Because permits sell out quickly, many attempt to start their hike a few days before or after their permit start date, assuming that they can do so legally. However, the permit system used by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) in this region allows for 60 people to enter per day during peak season (May 15 to September 15) and 30 people to enter per day during non-peak season (September 16 to May 14). This means that if you attempt to start your hike on any day other than your permit start date, your permit is invalid and you may be ticketed by a BLM ranger stationed at either trailhead. The Lost Coast is on an extremely narrow sliver of coastline, therefore the impact that over-recreation has on the landscape can be extreme. If too many people attempt to start on a specific date, they will most likely get stuck at the same camping areas by the tides, resulting in overcrowding and damage to the resource area.

The biggest piece of advice that I can offer regarding permits is to check the predicted tides for your preferred dates! Many people don’t know that tide predictions are extremely accurate (even a year or more in advance) and can allow you to mitigate unfavorable tidal conditions by choosing days with low tides under 3 feet and slow tidal swings. Here’s the Lost Coast Trail permit page.

How to get to the Lost Coast Trail

Nearest City: Eureka, California (50 miles)

Mattole Beach Trailhead

Black Sands Beach Trailhead

The most popular option to navigate this point-to-point route is hiring a shuttle service. These services are privately operated and are not affiliated with the BLM. It is recommended that you book your shuttle far in advance in order to guarantee a spot. Typically, prices are about $100 per person. (Expensive, yes, but definitely worth it to most folks.) Usually, hikers will meet their shuttle drivers early in the morning at Black Sands Beach day use parking lot, where they will leave their car, and be driven along unmaintained, windy dirt roads for two hours to start at Mattole Trailhead.

There are three services that are legally insured to shuttle hikers between trailheads along the Lost Coast:

Lost Coast Adventure Tours
Mendo Insider Tours
Bill’s Lost Coast Shuttle Service: 707-442-1983

If you’re a fan of long car rides, have an extra day to station your cars before you start your hike, and would prefer to save your money, you may also consider the method of leaving a car at each trailhead. The biggest thing to consider in this option is your vehicle’s ability to drive on windy, unpaved mountain roads for hours.

If you have a high-clearance vehicle (4WD/AWD recommended, necessary in the winter), you may choose to take this route between trailheads. (About 2 hours). This is also the route that the shuttle drivers will take. *Note: I have never driven my personal vehicle on Ettersburg Road or Wilder Ridge Road, and I would recommend that people from out of the area choose the second option that follows the 101. MAP IT HERE

If your vehicle does not have high clearance, you will need to take this route between trailheads. (About 2 hours, 40 minutes). This is my preferred route and the route I suggest to all visitors from out of town. There will still be some unpaved sections along Mattole Road, but nothing unmanageable. MAP IT HERE

Accessing the coast from any other inland trailhead requires high-clearance AWD vehicles to navigate the unmaintained and unpaved roads within the King Range. It is also worth noting that cell phone service is usually unavailable and that AAA will not be able to reach your vehicle in case of an emergency.

Another option is organizing up a key-swap with hikers who are hiking the opposite direction as you. I have no personal experience with this, but it seems to be a fairly popular option for some trusting individuals. If this is something you would consider, you may have luck finding a buddy in the Facebook group Lost Coast Trail CA.

Lastly, you may very well choose to hike out-and-back. More power to you!

When to Hike the Lost Coast Trail

While this hike is accessible year round, I would suggest reserving a permit for the spring season to enjoy the blue skies, wildflowers, and baby elephant seals. The most popular time to hike the Lost Coast Trail is during the summer, resulting in more human interaction. There are never crowds along the LCT, but you are likely to run into larger groups of people when you arrive at your camping area for the night. Additionally, the King Range usually goes into its first level of fire restrictions in July, but as early as June. In 2021, campfires were allowed on the LCT until mid-July, and all open flames and camp stoves were banned on August 11. The fall season (through November) may also be impacted by the summer’s burn ban. In the winter, storms offshore cause hazardous ocean conditions that increase risks associated with hiking along the coast. It is also worth noting that this area of Humboldt County typically receives 50-70 inches of rainfall annually, most of which comes down in the late fall-early spring.

Your itinerary will be mostly dependent on your ability to hike through each impassable zone during a low-tide window. The following itinerary is a common way to break up the hike, but every single person’s hike is different based on the conditions. Impassable zones and tides will be discussed in detail in the section “Trail Terrain.” Additionally, this hike can certainly be completed in a single day if the tidal conditions are in your favor and you can get through both impassable zones at a low tide. Many people travel slowly along the LCT in order to enjoy the coastal scenery, taking as long as a week to complete their hike.

Day 1: Mattole Beach Trailhead to Cooskie Creek (6.8 miles)

This section of the trail is entirely along sandy beach or slippery boulders, so anticipate a slower pace. (1.5 mph)
You will pass the impassable point at Punta Gorda and hike halfway through the northern impassable zone. Fear not, Cooskie Creek offers a safe creek valley for camping where you will be safe from the tide.
You can also hike up Cooskie Creek to find hidden campsites and a small swimming hole early in the summer season.
River otter activity here is common and you may see them hunting and swimming in the creek in the early morning.

Day 2: Cooskie Creek to Miller Flat/Big Flat (9.8 miles)

For the first 2 miles, you will be finishing the northern impassable zone and hiking in sand. Be sure to start your hike when the tide is receding. There is a “pinch point” at Randall Creek that may require you to run around a rocky outcropping to avoid being hit by a wave. Be sure that when you reach Randall Creek the tide is under 3 feet, or you will not make it past the pinch point.
The remaining 7.8 miles are on a bluff above the beach. Here, you will not need to worry about the tides, because you are at least 20 feet above sea level. Bonus: You will be able to pick up your pace along the compacted, flat trail.
When you reach Big Flat Creek, you will have many camping options. The north side of the creek is considered Big Flat, and the south side is considered Miller Flat.
By camping here, you will be setting yourself up well to hike through the southern impassable zone the following morning during low tide.
Note: There is a private residence at Big Flat, and they often host yoga retreats. If camping alongside a group of yogis isn’t your desired wilderness experience, camp on the south side of the creek at Miller Flat.

Day 3: Miller Flat to Black Sands Beach Trailhead (8.5 miles)

Your first mile will continue along the bluff before dropping you back onto the beach just north of Shipman Creek. This is the beginning of the southern impassable zone, and it continues south on to Gitchell Creek.
For this section, be sure to hike during a receding tide and reach Gitchell Creek while the tide is below 3 feet.
Once you’ve reached Gitchell, you can slowly meander and enjoy the remainder of your hike to Black Sands, due to the wide stretch of beach in the southern section.
Keep an eye out for bear tracks along the beach if you’re traveling in the early morning!

Lost Coast Trail Terrain

The terrain of the LCT is the most precarious and challenging aspect of this route. The northern and southern sections follow the coastline, while the middle section (Randall Creek to Miller Flat) follows a bluff trail above sea level. Along the coastal sections, you will spend most of your time hiking through sand or jumping through boulder fields. In the middle bluff section, you will walk through overgrown lupine and poison oak before it opens up to a flat, grassy prairie. There are shallow creek crossings every mile or so, but you will probably be able to stay dry by rock hopping. Due to the sandy and rocky terrain, it is recommended that hikers plan for a slower pace of 1.5 mph.

When traveling along the beach, one needs to plan to pass through the 3 impassable zones at specific times in order to mitigate the danger of rising tides trapping you along the cliffside.

The northernmost “impassable point” is located 2.4 miles south of the Mattole trailhead. If the tide is higher than 5.5 feet, the rocks along Punta Gorda will all be underwater, making that spot impassable. A tide lower than 5.5 feet will allow you to safely hike past this point.
The northern “impassable zone” is located between Sea Lion Gulch and Randall Creek. Start hiking this section on a receding tide, and be sure to reach Randall Creek while the tide is lower than 3 feet. If the tide is higher than 3 feet, you will not be able to hike around the rocky outcropping located at Randall Creek.
The southern “impassable zone” is located between Big Flat and Gitchell Creek. This section should also be hiked on a receding tide. Most of this section is a fairly narrow strip of beach, so aim to hike this entire section while the tide is below 3 feet.

Lost Coast Trail Resupply Strategy

The LCT is short enough to not require a resupply strategy. Be sure to carry a hard-sided bear canister large enough to fit all food, trash, and scented items!

Logistics: Land Management, Water, Special Gear

What type of land: The entirety of the Lost Coast Trail is located within the King Range Wilderness, meaning that you are held to all wilderness rules and regulations. This area is managed by the Bureau of Land Management. Dogs are allowed to use this trail, but must remain leashed near the Punta Gorda lighthouse when passing the elephant seal colony.

Water: One of the most convenient aspects of the LCT is the availability of water year round. Hikers will encounter a running creek about every mile or two along the coast, minimizing the need to carry an excess of water. As temperatures rise and flows decrease, some of the creeks may grow algae in the shallow parts closest to the ocean. If this is the case, simply hike up the creek a bit to reach fresh, flowing water. All water along the Lost Coast must be filtered before consumption.

Special Gear: The one piece of gear that has saved me on the LCT a countless amount of times is a good pair of trekking poles. Whether you’re pulling yourself through the sand or balancing yourself while hopping between boulders, a pair of poles is essential. Many hikers also choose to wear gaiters for the sand, creek crossings, ticks, and poison oak.

Know Before You Go

Due to the intense planning process, this trail is best suited for experienced backpackers who are very comfortable with organizing logistics and researching.

You need to pass through the impassable zones at receding tides lower than 3 feet. If you are having a difficult time understanding the tide charts for your dates, you should call the BLM King Range Project Office to have a ranger answer your questions at 707-986-5400. This is not something you should just “wing”; understanding the coastline and tides is necessary in order to safely navigate this route.

Ticks, poison oak, and rattlesnakes are three of the most common concerns among LCT hikers. If you are sleeping without a closed tent, consider treating your gear with permethrin to ward off the ticks. Rattlesnakes can be found as close as a few feet away from the ocean and will be lethargic in the early mornings, so they may not rattle. Keep your eyes open, and always kick pieces of driftwood before taking a seat.

While you may see a number of large driftwood structures along the beach, please help maintain the wilderness and do not build any. People tend to hide their trash inside them, which attracts rodents and rattlesnakes.

Fire restrictions are usually put into place in midsummer. If you are hiking between July-November, be prepared to eat meals without the use of a camping stove.

The black bear population in the King Range is very healthy, which is why you are required to carry a hard-sided bear canister on all overnight trips in the wilderness area. Bear canisters can be rented for $5 from the BLM King Range Project Office in Whitethorn, from your shuttle driver, or from the Petrolia Store.

While dogs are allowed on the trail, they often struggle with the terrain. If you are planning on bringing your pup, you should also bring them a pair of booties for the hot sand.

Because the LCT is on such a narrow strip of land, you are supposed to dig your catholes in the intertidal zone, not up the creek valleys. This offers some of the most beautiful cathole views imaginable!

Lost Coast Trail Resources

Shuttles:

Lost Coast Adventure Tours
Mendo Insider Tours
Bill’s Lost Coast Shuttle Service: 707-442-1983

The App Avenza has downloadable maps of the Lost Coast Trail, which is the exact same version distributed by the BLM. This allows you to see yourself in real time on the map and easily navigate along the outlined impassable zones.

Official Lost Coast Trail map

Most reliable website for checking the tides

The Lost Coast Trail CA Facebook group is a good resource for those with questions from other hikers. Group members often coordinate permit cancellations with each other to allow others to claim them promptly.

Kacie Hallahan lives and recreates behind the Redwood Curtain of Northern California. She worked as a BLM wilderness ranger on the Lost Coast, hiking the entirety of the trail every week for 10 weeks. Follow her on Instagram for more of her adventures @idkacie.

Published by BPRoutes on September 7, 2021September 7, 2021