The Ozark Highlands Trail is a 254-mile point-to-point backpacking route in Arkansas. It is a blazed trail through the northern part of the state with multiple stream crossings. A full thru-hike is considered to be 165 miles, with 254 miles being the full proposed (and possible) route.

Region: Middle South (Arkansas)
Length: 165 – 254 miles (10-18 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• Creek and river crossings ebb and flow with the weather
• The trail is moderately graded
• The climbs and descents are short

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• No permits needed
• Both termini are hard to access
• Resupplies can be tough

Season: Fall, Winter, Spring

Hiking the Ozark Highlands Trail

The Ozark Highlands Trail is a route through northern Arkansas that follows the spine of the Ozark Mountains from east to west.

The trail is white-blazed along most of its route and is fairly straightforward to follow. There is also a FarOut guide. Compared with the Ouachita Trail, there are not as many signs or markers, but for the first chunk, every mile is signed.

The trees are deciduous with small groups of pine and the weather is temperate and mild. On my thru-hike I saw deer, elk, and porcupine. Locals also spoke of small black bears in the Ozarks. It is a peaceful environment that is far removed from any towns. This also makes the resupply strategy more difficult than comparable trails.

One big factor on the Ozark Highlands Trail is the water. There are numerous crossings every day, an abundance of waterfalls, and little need to have more than a 2-liter capacity. I thru-hiked this trail in February, which is one of the wetter times of the year, but water seems to flow year-round based on many of the online comments and water sources on maps.

The Ozark Highlands Trail is not finished, and there are two distinct sections with the opportunity to connect them as I did. The first 165 miles to the Buffalo River at Woolum are largely considered an entire thru-hike, but there is a decent section for 40 more miles to Dillards Ferry at Highway 14 that I was able to easily complete. From there, it was a 20-mile slog of bushwhacking, looking for a trail, and following gravel roads to get to the Sylamore section of the trail. The east end of the trail was beautiful and my 254-mile route ended at Matney Knob Trailhead.

How to Get to the Ozark Highlands Trail

Western Terminus: Fort Smith State Park, Arkansas
Closest City: Fort Smith (1 hour)

Eastern Terminus: Matney Knob Trailhead, Arkansas, or Woolum Campground, Arkansas
Closest City: Mountain Home, Arkansas (20 minutes)

I hiked this trail eastbound and was able to get a ride to the trailhead from a friend, but there is a very active Facebook group and numerous resources for getting to the trail on the Ozark Highlands Trail Association website.

Ozark Highlands Trail Western Terminus

From Fort Smith, Arkansas, it’s a 40-minute drive to Lake Fort Smith State Park

Ozark Highlands Trail Eastern Terminus

The trail ends abruptly at either Woolum or Matney Knob Trailhead (depending on where you conclude your thru-hike). Mountain Home is the largest city of any kind, but transportation can be tricky. I was able to hitch across the state to Fayetteville but there are also some bus options and the opportunity to rent a car to get to a major city. I found hitching to be fairly simple in Arkansas.

When to Hike the Ozark Highlands Trail / Which Direction

The Ozark Highlands Trail fits snuggly into the shoulder seasons when the weather is tamer in Arkansas and without the sticky heat and humidity that the region experiences during the summer. A generally equal split hike the trail in the early spring and the fall, with the season lasting a few months twice a year.

The trail can be hiked year-round, but a number of factors ranging from bugs to floods to cold weather make the February to April and October to November timeframes the most popular. In late February it snowed on me and the rivers were swollen after a rainstorm. The weather can be inclement, and despite the lack of true elevation the terrain can be rugged.

Most thru-hikers start at Lake Fort Smith State Park and travel eastbound because it is fairly easy to get a ride to and makes the logistics work a little better. The two possible termini on the east side are both remote and difficult.

Ozark Highlands Trail Terrain

The Ozark Highlands Trail is very much under the canopy of deciduous trees, but there are a number of views as the oscillating elevation brings you up and down numerous mountains. The trail is rocky with mud, waterfalls, and numerous stream crossings. Compared with the drier Ouachita Trail to the south, the Ozark Highlands Trail has a lot more dependable water.

Ozark Highlands Trail Resupply

Resupply can be complicated on the OHT. There are no major towns nearby, and the roads cutting through the mountains are lightly traveled. But with a couple of longer carries the trail can be thru-hiked without going hungry.

Resupply 1, Ozone, Arkansas
Mile 68

A tiny Burger Barn that accepts thru-hiker packages is only 2 miles off the trail. The other option at this crossing of Highway 21 is Clarksville. If you can manage the long carry from here to Woolum, the simplest way to thru-hike the Ozark Highlands Trail is to only resupply at this location.

Resupply 2, Highway 65
Mile 205

If you are hiking the full (proposed) length of the trail, Highway 65 is well-traveled and can provide access to a Dollar General in St. Joe. It is a fairly easy hitch and is the only real relevant resupply option for the second half of the lesser-traveled section of the trail.

Logistics: Camping and Water

Camping: Camping is dispersed and plentiful on the OHT. There are a number of flat spots, and FarOut has a number of waypoints marked as potential spots to set up a tent.

Water: There is so much water on the Ozark Highlands Trail that flooding can be an issue. Especially in the Hurricane Creek section, the water crossings can swell substantially when it rains. Keep an eye on the weather and the current levels of the rivers and creeks.

Ozark Highlands Trail: Know Before You Go

Weather: Shoulder season hiking comes with variable weather. I experienced rain, snow, and sunshine in late February. The weather was in the 70s one day and dipped below 20 the next. Packing the gear to weather any potential conditions is highly recommended.

Ozark Highlands Trail Resources

Ozark Highlands Trail Association

Ozark Highlands Trail Guide – Book

Ozark Highland Trail Facebook

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Region: Deep South

Distance: 30 miles (2-4 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• 7,000 feet of total elevation gain SOBO; 8,200 feet NOBO
• Rocky and rooty terrain
• Steep sections and seasonal water sources

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate 

• Route is poorly marked in Shining Rock Wilderness
• Infrequent water sources, depending on the season
• Easily accessible trailheads

Season: Spring/Summer/Fall/Winter

Elevation Gain: 7,000 feet SOBO / 8,200 feet NOBO

Hiking the Art Loeb Trail

The Art Loeb Trail is a difficult point-to-point route in the Pisgah National Forest that takes hikers through a variety of terrain across the Blue Ridge Mountains. As is typical with hiking the Southern Appalachians, there are steep ascents and descents, offering spectacular views at the top but tough on the knees going down. We chose to hike this trail north-to-south as it was both logistically and physically easier than the alternative. 

The northernmost quarter of the trail, heading south, is a steady climb up toward Cold Mountain through the heavily wooded forest of the Shining Rock Wilderness. A spur trail can take you to the top of Cold Mountain if you wish to further explore the namesake of the popular book and movie. Continuing on the ALT, you will pass through The Narrows, a single-track, rhododendron-lined section of ridge walking that offers gorgeous overlooks. Exiting The Narrows, the trail widens and you enter Shining Rock Ledge, an area scattered with quartzite ranging from pebble-sized rocks underfoot to small boulders resting among the trees. At mile 6.8 is Shining Rock Gap and a junction with Old Butt Knob Trail, which you can take to see the actual Shining Rock itself. Near the end of this section, you’ll pass two water sources near each other, which are the last opportunity to get water if you plan on camping before Black Balsam. 

Continuing on, you’ll reach Flower Gap in less than half a mile, the first spot of near-continuous views for several miles. There are some campsites in this area that looked great but were all taken by the time we got there. We continued toward Ivestor Gap, an open, grassy gap with views on each side, where we set up camp for the night. Both the sunrise and sunset were absolutely incredible from this location. I highly recommend camping here. If you do want to keep moving down the trail, there are some sporadic campsites between here and Black Balsam that also offer stellar views.

After packing up the next morning at Ivestor Gap, we continued south along the ridge and summited Tennent Mountain, which has jaw-dropping 360-degree views of many well-known mountaintops in the region, including Clingmans Dome far off in the distance. The hike from Tennent Mountain to Black Balsam Knob is definitely one of my all-time favorite hiking experiences! I cannot stress this enough. An abundance of blueberry and blackberry bushes line the trail, offering a good opportunity for a morning snack, and the continuous views impress for miles. The berry bushes do entice bears to the area and there was evidence of their presence, though no bears were spotted during our hike. You will pass a water source in this area–the last one until Deep Gap Shelter about six miles ahead.

Ascending Black Balsam Knob we inadvertently took the Black Balsam Trail instead of the ALT, but after talking to a few people I learned that this is a common mistake that actually provides a better viewing experience than following the Art Loeb Trail to the top. We hung around Black Balsam for a bit and took in the scenery while trying to identify the mountains we spotted in the distance. If you reach Black Balsam after 8 in the morning on a weekend, expect it to be somewhat crowded. As you descend Black Balsam, after you descend the wooden stairs, veer right at the Mountains-to-Sea Trail junction to cross USFS 816 to stay on the Art Loeb Trail. A steep descent to the Blue Ridge Parkway provides some additional views and a chance to escape the crowds.

The southern half of the trail has a very different vibe than the sections before Black Balsam. The trail is rocky and rooty and the ascents and descents are steep, but peaks such as the one on Pilot Mountain offer magnificent views of the Blue Ridge Mountains at the top. In early September, we only came across three water sources between the spring past Tennent Mountain and the southern terminus at the Davidson River. The first of the two sources you’ll come across if doing a SOBO hike is just south of Deep Gap Shelter, along an old logging road. The second source is next to Butter Gap Shelter and the third is about a mile down the trail from there. After Butter Gap, there are many small climbs mixed with some smooth ridge running and old logging roads before reaching the final descent toward the southern terminus, where you’ll find a river to dip in to celebrate your completed thru-hike if the season’s right!

How to Get to the Art Loeb Trail

Nearest City: Brevard, North Carolina (42 miles from Camp Daniel Boone/northern terminus; 5 miles from Davidson River Campground/southern terminus)

Camp Daniel Boone / northern terminus (Google Map)

Davidson River Campground / southern terminus (Google Map)

No parking is allowed at the northern terminus at Camp Daniel Boone. We left our car at the southern terminus and had a friend drive us to the northern trailhead.

There are shuttles in the area that are a good option if you only have one car or are flying to the area and need a ride. If driving and you only have one car, depending on the direction you’re hiking, the shuttle could drive you to Camp Daniel Boone to begin a SOBO hike or pick you up there at the end if you’re hiking NOBO.

If you’re flying to North Carolina, your best bet is probably to fly into the Asheville airport (AVL) and take a shuttle to and from the trail. This airport is 22 minutes from the Davidson River Campground and 52 minutes from Camp Daniel Boone.

When to Hike the Art Loeb Trail

The ideal seasons for hiking the Art Loeb Trail are late spring, summer, and early fall. However, this hike could be easily managed in any season, including winter, with a reasonable amount of preparedness.

We hiked the trail over Labor Day weekend; the temperature was in the 70s during the day but varied a bit depending on the elevation. We camped at 5,700 feet elevation the first night and the low temperature was in the 30s, but conditions were warmer–50 degrees–the second night when we dropped to 3,200 feet. Mosquitoes weren’t as much of an issue as expected, but the water was scarce. Any season outside of the summer months would likely offer more abundant water sources.

Fall is a gorgeous time of year in North Carolina as the trees are changing colors, making October a perfect time to hike this trail. Keep in mind that temperatures may have already dropped below freezing at higher elevations by this point in the year.

If you are considering a winter hike of the Art Loeb Trail, be aware that it is not uncommon for the Blue Ridge Parkway to be closed during winter months when there are ice storms or periods of freezing weather.

2 night/3 day SOBO itinerary
Day 1: Camp Daniel Boone to Ivestor Gap (9 miles)
Day 2: Ivestor Gap to Butter Gap Shelter (13 miles)
Day 3: Butter Gap Shelter to Davidson River Campground (8 miles)

3 night/4 day NOBO itinerary
Day 1: Davidson River Campground to Butter Gap Shelter (8.5 miles)
Day 2: Butter Gap Shelter to Deep Gap Shelter (6 miles)
Day 3: Deep Gap Shelter to Flower Gap (8 miles)
Day 4: Flower Gap to Camp Daniel Boone (7 miles)

Art Loeb Trail Terrain

The Art Loeb Trail takes hikers over peaks and ridges, through forests and across balds as they cross some of the best-known mountains in North Carolina. The section from Flower Gap to Black Balsam Knob is exposed to the elements, so keep an eye on the weather forecast. Much of the southern half of the trail is heavy with rocks and roots, making the steep descents challenging and somewhat dangerous. Other sections are relatively smooth underfoot.

In September 2021, we had to traverse a landslide in the Shining Rock Wilderness, one of the most challenging obstacles we encountered on the trail.

Logistics: Direction, Land Management, Water

Art Loeb Trail Resupply Strategy  

Since this trail is only 30 miles and can be hiked in 2-4 days, it’s possible to complete the hike without needing a resupply. If a resupply is required, you would need a hitch or shuttle into Brevard, which could be up to an hour away or as close as 15 minutes, depending on your point along the trail.

Logistics 

Camping: Camping is free and first-come, first-served on the ALT. Many campsites lie along the trail, providing plenty of options for setting up camp. However, the lack of water sources limits your options if you wish to camp near water.

Permits: No permits are needed to hike or camp along this trail 

*Water: Water sources are plentiful between Camp Daniel Boone and Flower Gap. From SOBO mile 10 (just past Tennent Mountain) to the southern terminus at Davidson River Campground, water sources are sparse. In early September, there were only three water sources on the southern half of the trail (SOBO): one at Deep Gap Shelter (mile 15), one at Butter Gap Shelter (mile 21), and the third about one mile south of Butter Gap (mile 22).

Route Finding: A GPS map or map and compass are recommended. The trail is not marked in the Shining Rock Wilderness on the northern end of the trail or through Black Balsam. The trail runs along the ridge in these areas, so if you’re ever unsure stay along the ridgeline.

Special Gear: Bear canister required if camping in Shining Rock Wilderness.

Know Before You Go

This is a challenging trail with many steep ascents and rocky terrain. I would not recommend it for beginners.

• In the Shining Rock Wilderness, bear canisters are required and fires are not permitted.
• Water can be difficult to come by, especially along the southern half of the trail.
• The trail is not marked in the Shining Rock Wilderness on the northern end of the trail; a GPS map or map and compass are recommended.
• This trail is popular with day-hikers, especially on weekends.

Who was Art Loeb?: Yale grad, conservationist, avid hiker, Art Loeb and a hiking partner began piecing together trail sections between Davidson River Campground and Camp Daniel Boone. He died in 1968 at age 54, and the next year the trail was completed and named after him.

Additional Resources

USFS Trailhead Link and Info

National forests in North Carolina – Shining Rock Wilderness (usda.gov)
Shuttles

https://pvadventures.com/art-loeb-trail-shuttle/ https://wnctrailshuttle.com/art-loeb-trail/

https://mountainhighshuttles.com/

Laura Russell lives in Atlanta and enjoys going on outdoor adventures with her dog, Mallie, around the Southeast and beyond. She loves taking long road trips and has driven over 25,000 miles through 36 states, incorporating hiking into all of her travels. She started backpacking in 2020 and has many trails on the horizon. You can follow her adventures on Instagram @laura.russell_ 

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The Teton Crest Trail is a permitted 40+ mile point-to-point route through and around Grand Teton National Park. It parallels the namesake peak with epic views and frequent water, and can be completed in 2-4 days.

Region: Mountain West (Grand Teton National Park / surrounding national forests, Wyoming)
Distance: 35-45 miles

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Often above treeline
• Rocky and muddy trail
• Easy but frequent stream crossings

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Competitive permit process
• Point-to-point trail (shuttle service or hitchhike required)
• Well-signed trail

Season: Summer, Early Fall

Elevation (average): ~8,500 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 9,000 feet

Hiking the Teton Crest Trail

The Teton Crest Trail is an iconic, high-altitude route that travels through the heart of the Tetons. The views on the route are incredible and you’re likely to see a wide range of wildlife. The trail crosses high plateaus, open expanses, ridges, and skirts the edges of glaciers and glacial lakes. There are different variations that give it a final mileage between 35-45 miles.

The Teton Crest Trail has some challenges. Fast-changing weather, heavy (and long!) bug season, difficult permit process, and lately, lots of smoke.

Many campsites on the Teton Crest Trail offer magnificent views and it is rare to find a spot that doesn’t live up to expectations. The trail traverses Jedediah Wilderness Area, Bridger Teton National Forest, Caribou-Targhee National Forest, and Grand Teton National Park, which means permitting and planning are important.

The main portion of the trail is well-signed and easy to follow, but depending how far you extend the route, some lesser-maintained trails on the west side require specific attention at intersections.

As with many point-to-point trips, a shuttle is necessary. This adds some complications to the hike, since parking can be difficult with the increasing popularity of the TCT.

How to Get to the Teton Crest Trail

Southern Terminus: Phillips Bench Trailhead
Closest City: Jackson, Wyoming (11 miles)

Northern Terminus: Leigh Lake Trailhead
Closest City: Jackson, Wyoming (25 miles)

Driving and Shuttle: We shuttled one of our cars to the northern end so we’d have a vehicle when we finished, allowing us to drive back to the Phillips Bench Trailhead. Prior to the hike, we camped at dispersed camping near the Phillips Bench Trailhead.

When to Hike the Teton Crest Trail

Hike the trail in summer or early fall. The trail can hold snow late into the season, and micro-spikes and an ice ax may be required through June or early July. Also, the bug season can be long and brutal. The bears are most active in early and late season, and we suggest carrying bear spray.

Teton Crest Trail Terrain

After the initial few miles as you slowly climb up to the alpine zone, the trees are largely absent, and you’re surrounded by sweeping views of massive rock faces, alpine lakes, and huge valleys carved by glaciers. The trail can be rocky at times with sporadic deadfalls from winter storms, but it is quite easy to follow and especially well-signed in the Grand Teton National Park section.

Logistics: Permits, Land Designation and Camping, and Open Fires

Permits: Permits are required for all trips through Grand Teton National Park. Permits can be obtained through Recreation.gov and are often booked out months in advance. Walk-up permits are still possible and a viable option, but we recommend having a few different contingency itineraries if you are going with the walk-up option.

Permit Dates

Land Designation and Camping: The trail travels through wilderness areas, national forest, and Grand Teton National Park. The permitting is most strict in the national park for campsites, but there are 11 different sites capable of housing multiple parties.

Open Fires Prohibited: No open fires are allowed

Know Before You Go

Bugs: The Tetons have a notoriously bad bug season. The stories of thick clouds of mosquitoes are present on every message board. Traveling in July means bringing plenty of bug spray and maybe mosquito netting.

Bears: The Tetons are home to a large number of grizzlies and black bears. When camping below 10,000 feet a bear can must be used to store food. It is also highly recommended to carry bear spray and know how to use it.

Changing Weather: The weather can change quickly and unexpectedly in the Tetons, and we recommend being prepared for everything from early-season snow to high exposure and heat. The water accessibility is fairly reliable.

Teton Crest Trail Resources

Backpacking in Grand Teton National Park

Booking Campsites (Recreation.gov)

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Therm-a-Rest Neo-Air XTherm

I have always used a foam pad. I don’t like hiking until 9 p.m. only to have to spend my last bit of energy blowing up a sleeping pad. But in March we started car camping more and a foam pad just wouldn’t cut it. I tried the inflatable NeoAir and realized it was a lot less painful than the terror of inflation I had remembered. I continued to hike with the NeoAir all year with the exception of only the most intense projects when I reverted to foam. 

Coros Vertix Watch

I got this watch right at the beginning of 2020 and while the fitness tracker market has exploded in recent years this has been my favorite. The battery life is simply amazing and the detailed metrics offer anything a hiker, training athlete, or parent simply trying to stay active would need. The detailed GPS tracking, vertical gain assessment, and training load assessment have been great in this year of running close to home.

 Appalachian Gear Company All-Paca Fleece Hoodie

I got this alpaca hoodie at the Grand Canyon and then continued to wear it every day on the Ouachita Trail, even jogging in it once we returned to Montana. The thing still doesn’t smell. I am now a firm believer in alpaca wool for its comfort and aversion to stench. 10/10 would recommend. 

HOKA ONE ONE Speedgoats

I switched shoes this year, after many suggestions to switch to HOKA from my previous trail runners. There are a couple of different models that I enjoy, but for overall hiking and trail running the Speedgoat has proven to be the most versatile. 

Ultimate Direction Adventure Vest

The single-day adventures got longer this year and I needed a vest that could carry enough for a full day out there. I got this vest initially for the Barkley Marathons, but when those were canceled it became my go-to pack for long runs in the mountains. It easily stows a rain jacket, gloves, and enough food and water to be comfortably uncomfortable running all day. 

Rawlogy Cork Massage Balls

Balls Balls Balls Balls. I spent the first quarter of 2020 training for the Barkley Marathons. Now I am full circle and training for it again. The training is not easy and little discomforts present themselves daily. Simply rolling out with these cork balls has really helped, especially my hips and hamstrings. 

Swiftwick Socks

I have this wonderful pair of rainbow national park-themed socks that I wear with floral running tights to really blow the fashion game out of the water. I tried these socks for the first time this year and I have only positive things to say. A new pair of socks is my favorite gift and putting a new pair on is a small slice of heaven. 

Peak Refuel Meals

These are the best dehydrated meals that I have ever had. They require less water than the bigger brands and they use higher-quality ingredients. The taste is very similar to what you would get in a restaurant, not a dehydrated meal. While expensive, these meals also have about 25% more calories than comparable meals. Jump on board with one of the best meal companies. 

LiteAF Tiger Pack

I have been using a LiteAF pack off and on for the last two years, but this year I was so dependent on a custom tiger-print 35L pack for the Colorado Trail FKT that it took the relationship to another level. The record was an unsupported 486 miles, and the pack held up perfectly. I doubt there is a better way to put a pack through the wringer than on an unsupported FKT.

Oiselle Tights

Simply because women’s tights are more comfortable than any tights I have found for men! Floral pattern is an added bonus.

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