Region: Mid-Atlantic (Adirondack Park, New York)

Length: 30 miles (2 to 3 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• The elevation gain is 3,418 feet over ~30 miles. The trail loops around the Seward Mountains, ascending and descending low ridges. There are no significant climbs.
• Mostly soft dirt trails, with several sections along old logging roads.
• The trail is wet and muddy, with wet crossings of a meadow that can flood during high water, Calkins Brook, and the Cold River if the river is low enough.

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

• Loop trail done in 2-3 days so resupply not needed.
• Plentiful water.
• Shelters well spaced.

Season: Spring, summer, fall.

Net Elevation Gain: 3,418 feet

How to Get to the Cold River Loop

The trail starts at the Seward Trailhead. The closest towns are Saranac Lake and Tupper Lake. Coreys Road leads from Route 3 (between the two towns) to Ampersand Road and the Seward Trailhead.

Coreys is a small settlement of year-round and seasonal houses with no stores or gas stations.

About the Cold River Loop

The Cold River Loop combines the Calkins Brook Truck Trail, the Northville-Placid Trail, and the Ward Brook Truck Trail for a ~30-mile loop around the Seward Mountains.

The trail is not well-maintained, and blowdowns block the trail throughout the loop. Some sections are heavily overgrown, especially the short, unnamed trail between the Calkins Brook trail and Cold River shelters 3 and 4 on the NPT.

This is also a very wet hike, so water shoes are a good idea.

When to Hike the Cold River Loop

Spring: Snow can linger, bugs can be bothersome, and spring rains can make a wet trail even wetter.

Summer: Buggy, wet, and sometimes uncomfortably hot and humid. But the sweet spot of summer hiking is swimming in the Cold River.

Fall: Leaves begin to change color, the bugs are mostly gone, and the temperature can be cool and comfortable.

Hiking the Cold River Loop

The centerpiece of the Cold River Loop is the Cold River, with four shelters that provide stunning views of the river and nights falling asleep to the music of the rushing water.

The loop follows the Northville-Placid Trail (NPT) for roughly 10 miles, about half of those along the river, through what is considered the most remote section of the 136-mile NPT.

Trail access is from the Seward Trailhead, a few dirt road miles from the small settlement of Coreys, NY. Trailhead parking can be at a premium on weekends and holidays as it is a popular launching spot for 46ers climbing the 4,000-plus-foot peaks of the Seward Mountains.

I hiked the loop counterclockwise, taking the Calkins Brook Truck Trail (10.6 miles) to the NPT at Shattuck Clearing, the NPT (10.4 miles) to the Ward Brook Truck Trail, and the Ward Brook Truck Trail (8.7 miles) to my car. I stayed at Cold River shelter No. 3 overlooking the river; Cold River shelter No. 4, a short walk downriver, also has a superb view of the river.

The hike from the parking lot follows an unnamed trail for 1.2 miles to the Calkins Brook and Ward Brook truck trails. I turned right at the trail junction onto the Calkins Brook trail and the going was easy along an old logging road for 6.5 miles to the Calkins Brook shelter.

Shortly after the shelter the trail crosses Calkins Brook, a dry crossing in low water and a wet one in high water. This was my first wet shoes water crossing. The trail becomes overgrown after this, almost disappearing in sections. Shortly before reaching the Cold River a marked side trail leads to Latham Pond, with a view of the Sewards.

The Calkins Brook trail ends at the Cold River, with two options for reaching Cold River shelters 3 and 4. If you take a left at the river, you’ll follow a trail that disappears among thick overgrowth and a beaver pond, eventually emerging from the overgrowth behind Cold River shelter 4. I could clearly see the trail from both ends, but lost it in the middle.

To the right is an easy path to the horse trail crossing at Shattuck Clearing, where there is a marked tent site. I found a shallow crossing downriver (my second wet shoes crossing of the day), and reconnected with the horse trail for a short uphill walk to the NPT. It’s important to note that crossing the Cold River is possible only during low water.

The NPT winds through the woods for about a mile, crossing two suspension bridges before reaching Cold River shelters 3 and 4. Both shelters have fire pits, a privy, and adjacent tent sites.

The next day I continued on the NPT, following the trail uphill from the shelters and along the river.

Once again the trail followed an old logging road, and the hiking along the river was easy to Seward and Ouluska shelters. The Seward shelter is a popular spot for swimming at Millers Falls, but the day I stopped was cold and threatening rain so I did not swim.

After the Ouluska shelter the trail heads uphill away from the river, leaving behind the flat, easy walking, and soon reaches a spot where Noah John Rondeau, the Hermit of Cold River, lived from roughly 1929 to 1950. The sign marking the location of his long-gone hermitage is a must-have picture for loop and NPT hikers.

The trail continues over ridges, climbing and descending before reaching the Ward Brook trail, which bears left at the junction. The NPT continues to Lake Placid, passing Cold River shelters 1 and 2 (.4 miles) and Duck Hole shelters 1 and 2 (1.5 miles).

Soon after the junction the trail crosses a meadow that can be dry, flooded, or something in between. It was flooded when I hiked through, and because my shoes were wet from rain that had been steadily falling for several hours, I waded through the nearly foot-deep water rather than testing the floating saplings intended as a bridge.

After 2.6 miles, steady rain, and many blowdowns, I reached the two Number 4 horse trail shelters , which were empty and in very good shape (dry inside, no roof leaks). A stream flows right behind the shelters, with easy access for filtering water. Shelter from the storm never looked so good.

The trail from the horse shelters to the trailhead (6.1 miles) continues on a flat grade, passing the Ward Brook and Blueberry shelters. Both shelters are popular launching spots for peakbagging the Sewards and because they often fill up are not good destinations for loop hikers.

After the Blueberry shelter the trail is very wet, and large blowdowns block the trail. At this point my shoes were so wet it seemed futile to try to avoid the mud and water.

But the hike went quickly, and I happily changed into clean clothes and dry shoes back at my car.

Suggested Itineraries

Two Days: Counterclockwise on the Calkins Brook Truck Trail to Seward shelter, Seward shelter to the trailhead. Or clockwise on Ward Brook Truck Trail to Ouluska shelter, Ouluska shelter to the trailhead.

Three Days: Ward Brook Truck Trail to Duck Hole, Duck Hole to Cold River shelters 3 and 4, Calkins Brook Truck Trail to the trailhead. Or the reverse: Calkins Brook to shelters 3 and 4, shelters 3 and 4 to Duck Hole, Duck Hole to the trailhead. Duck Hole is not technically on the loop, but it’s a nice side trip to a beautiful location.

The Cold River Loop Terrain

The Calkins Brook and Ward Brook truck trails mostly follow old logging roads, with slight elevation gain and loss. The Northville-Placid Trail is mostly flat from the Cold River shelters to Ouluska shelter, then climbs and descends ridges away from the river.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water

Permits: No permits are needed.

Shelters: Plenty of shelters with tent sites, picnic tables, and privies nicely spaced along the loop: Calkins Brook (2 shelters), Cold River shelters 3 and 4, the Seward and Ouluska shelters, Cold River shelters 1 and 2, the two Number 4 horse trail shelters, and the Ward Brook and Blueberry shelters. I do not recommend staying at the Ward Brook and Blueberry shelters because they get heavy use by 46ers.

Water: Water is plentiful. I carried a liter and filled up at the abundant water sources along the loop.

Route-finding: The three trails that make up the loop are easy to follow, although some sections are very overgrown. The Calkins Brook and Ward Brook trails are sparsely blazed with blue trail markers. The Northville-Placid Trail section has a confusing mix of NPT and two kinds of blue trail markers, also spaced far apart. But trail junctions are clearly marked with signs indicating distances to shelters and connecting trails.

Water Crossings: The Calkins Brook bridge just north of the shelter washed out years ago, and lumber to rebuild it has sat in the woods for years. I waded across the brook when I hiked because the water was too high for dry rock hopping. A meadow on the Ward Brook trail near the junction with the NPT can be dry, covered with water, or something in between. It was filled with water about a foot deep when I hiked, and I waded through it. The trail connecting the Calkins Brook trail to Cold River shelters 3 and 4 is extremely overgrown, and I lost the trail in the area of a beaver marsh. I backtracked and waded across the Cold River at a shallow spot downriver from the Shattuck Clearing horse trail ford, and hiked the horse trail a short distance to the NPT.

Know Before You Go

Solitude: In early September I saw one NPT thru-hiker and two loop hikers, and I was the only hiker at the two shelters I stayed in. About a dozen 46ers signed the trail logbook between the time I began hiking and my return.

Clockwise or Counterclockwise?: I hiked counterclockwise, mainly because I wanted to spend my first night on the river at Cold River shelters 3 and 4. The two loop hikers I met were going clockwise on the Ward Brook trail because they wanted to spend the first night at the Duck Hole shelters. So hiking direction comes down to personal preference.

The Horse Trails: Several horse trails cross and run alongside the loop trails, but they are rarely used and overgrown. Hiking on them is not recommended.

Parking: The Seward Trailhead is the only parking area for the loop, and Google Maps has directions. The trailhead is heavily used by 46ers hiking the Seward Mountain peaks, and often fills up.

Transportation: Driving your own vehicle is the only practical way to get to the trail.

Cell Reception: Random. At various times a text or phone call came through on my cell phone, but there is no consistent cell reception.

Trail Guides: I used the National Geographic Adirondack Parks Lake Placid / High Peaks map because it has the best trail markings, shelter names and locations, and mileages. The Adirondack Mountain Club High Peaks map has smaller print, making it hard to read, and does not name the shelters. The Northville-Lake Placid Chapter of the ADK has a trail book, but I didn’t consult it because only about 10 miles of the loop are on the NPT.

Bear Canisters: The New York Department of Environmental Conservation recommends using bear canisters, but does not require them in the Outer Zone of the High Peaks Wilderness where the Cold River Loop is located.

Peakbagging: Two herd paths marked by cairns leave the Ward Brook trail near the Ward Brook and Blueberry shelters, one climbing a herd path to the peaks of Seward, Donaldson, and Emmons, and another climbing Seymour, all 4,000-footers. A herd path off the Calkins Brook trail is marked by a cairn and old pot, also leading to Seward, Donaldson, and Emmons.

Cold River Loop Resources

Adirondack Mountain Club

Camping regulations: New York Department of Environmental Conservation

Northville-Placid Trail guidebook

Read our account of hiking the Northville-Placid Trail here

Adirondack Park (Lake Placid / High Peaks) map

Adirondack Mountain Club High Peaks map

Weather

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Region: Northeast (Pachaug State Forest, Connecticut)

Length: ~31 miles (3 days)

Physical Difficulty: Easy

• The elevation gain is 2,848 feet, and two sections account for the bulk of the elevation gain: Mount Misery (441 feet) and about 2 miles of steep up and down scrambling through rocky ravines north of Beach Pond.
• Mostly soft dirt trails and forest roads. Some short, paved road walks.
• Water crossings can be tricky after heavy rain, but bridges, some in poor condition, span the deepest crossings. I had to take off my shoes and pants to wade across one deep crossing, but I suspect the deep water was because of torrential rains in the days before my hike.

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

• Loop trail done in three days, so resupply not needed. Only two sites where camping is allowed: Dawley Pond and Dry Reservoir shelters. Permits are required.
• Plentiful water. Late-winter rainstorms before my hike left trails covered in water.
• Some forest roads leading to trailheads are closed for the winter so it’s a good idea to call Pachaug State Forest headquarters to find where you can park in the off-season.

Season: Year-round

Net Elevation Gain: 2,848 feet

Hiking the Pachaug State Forest Loop

The ~31-mile loop that I hiked combined parts of the Pachaug and Nehantic Trails in Pachaug State Forest, Connecticut’s largest state forest at 26,477 acres.

Horses are permitted on sections of the trail, and I saw two men riding horses and a fair amount of horse poop on trails. The trails also cross sanctioned dirt bike tracks.

Trailhead parking (shown on this interactive trails map) is scattered throughout the forest, but if you’re planning the off-season loop that I did I recommend parking on Fish Road, which has year-round access. The hike from Fish Road to the Dawley Pond Lean-to is ~14 miles, ~11 miles to Dry Reservoir Lean-to, and ~6 miles to Fish Road.

I parked at Fish Road and hiked south for 2 miles on the Nehantic Trail through mountain laurel stands before reaching Green Fall Pond. Water covered low-lying trail sections, a harbinger of wet trails to come for the rest of the hike.

I stopped for lunch at Green Fall Pond, a seasonal recreation area with swimming, picnic tables, outhouses, grills, and camping. This is the southern terminus for the Nehantic and Pachaug Trails.

Heading north from Green Fall Pond on the Pachaug Trail the route follows a low and mostly dry ridge for 4 miles to Route 165, crossing Route 138 along the way. The trail turns right onto Route 165, a state highway with narrow shoulders and fast-moving vehicles, for a short hike skirting the southern end of Beach Pond. The road walk enters Rhode Island at the bridge over the pond outlet, then crosses the road and heads back into the woods as the trail winds north along the pond’s eastern shore. The trail hugs the shore through the Arcadia Management Area in Rhode Island before veering away from Beach Pond and back into Connecticut and Pachaug State Forest. This is a nice stretch of the hike that offers waterfront access for hikers, unlike across the pond where the Connecticut shore is crowded with mega houses.

After leaving Beach Pond the trail begins a roughly 2-mile stretch through rocky ridges and ravines that were filled with water after late-winter rains. The trail becomes a scramble up and down the low but steep ridges, and is the most difficult section of the loop.

After the ridges the trail flattens out, and the hike to the Dawley Pond Lean-to is fast and easy. Although it’s called the Dawley Pond Lean-to, the three-sided structure is north of Dawley Pond, on Great Meadow Brook Pond.

The map here correctly shows the shelter’s location on Great Meadow Brook Pond. The Connecticut Walk Book, a comprehensive guide to Connecticut’s blue-blazed trails, mistakenly shows the shelter on Wickaboxet Marsh.

The shelter was clean when I arrived, but because it is so close to a road the shelter apparently can be a trashy party spot.

I filled up with water at the Great Meadow Brook Pond outlet just before reaching the clearly marked shelter side trail, and recommend filling up at one of the streams north of the pond if you’re coming from that direction. The pond shore is weedy and shallow at the shelter, making it difficult to get water.

The trail heading north from the shelter to Cedar Swamp Road passes stone walls and cellar holes, remnants of long-ago farms. An apparent gravesite for a 3-year-old girl who died in 1891, with fresh remembrances left at the site, sits along the trail through this section.

Emerging from the woods onto Cedar Swamp Road, the trail heads west for a short road walk. The road climbs easily to a wide-open hilltop farm—at 600-plus feet the highest point on the trail—where the wind blew fiercely from the northwest during my hike, pushing against me as I pushed back.

The trail crosses Route 49 to Hell Hollow Road, and the road walk isn’t well-blazed. But a sign does indicate the trail’s return to the woods, which loops north off Hell Hollow Road before heading south and crossing the road again.

The trail stays in the woods for several miles, crossing and following forest roads. The trail passes the Lowden Brook Cascades, and several deep pools in the brook below the falls look like promising cooling-off spots on a hot summer hike.

The walking continues to be easy to the Pachaug Trail junction with the Nehantic Trail. At this point the Pachaug and Nehantic Trails merge and head west through a recreation area popular for exercise walking. The trail soon veers left into the woods and begins ascending Mount Misery, supposedly named by European settlers for the area’s miserable farming soil. The hike to the 441-foot summit is easy and fast, and the main view is to the east and the forests I passed through on the first day of my hike.

The trail descending Mount Misery is blue-blazed but it’s easy to mistakenly follow—as I did—a herd path rather than the marked trail. At the base of the mountain the trail again follows a forest road before re-entering the woods.

A short distance later the Pachaug Trail heads south while the Nehantic Trail continues west to the Dry Reservoir Lean-to. The trail crosses a stream just before the shelter, and this is the water source for the shelter.

The Dry Reservoir Lean-to is clean, but small. I couldn’t stand up without bumping my head.

Although there’s no outstanding view at the shelter, I did see a stunning sunset and sunrise through the bare trees.

The final leg of the hike is ~6 miles, backtracking over Mount Misery and then south on the Nehantic Trail from the junction where the Pachaug Trail splits off to head north. The hike from that point back to Fish Road is flat and easy, with a short road walk on Route 49. Although blazes are few on the state highway the turnoff into the woods is clearly marked.

How to Get to Pachaug State Forest

Norwich and New London are the closest cities in Connecticut, each about a 30-minute drive to Pachaug State Forest. TF Green International Airport in Warwick, Rhode Island, is about an hour drive away.

Trailheads: Fish Road, Green Fall Pond Road, Shetucket Turnpike, Brown Road, Hell Hollow Road, Fire Tower Road, and Headquarters Road.

About the Pachaug-Nehantic Loop

The trails are mostly flat, with easy vehicle access to trailheads. Because camping is allowed only at shelters, the loop I hiked requires at least 14 miles to a shelter the first day, and about 11 miles to a shelter the second day.

But there are opportunities for shorter loops using the many interconnecting trails in the state forest. And two shelters on the Narragansett Trail make a point-to-point hike possible on that trail, or possibly putting together a different loop hike.

Here’s the route I followed on my hike:

Day 1: Park in the parking area for about 6 cars on Fish Road in Voluntown, CT, at the Nehantic Trail trailhead. Hike ~2 miles south on the Nehantic to its southern terminus at Green Fall Pond, and at the pond take the Pachaug Trail north to Dawley Pond Lean-to. Total mileage, ~14 miles.

Day 2: Continue north on the Pachaug Trail to Hell Hollow Road, then veer south and after several miles connect with the Nehantic Trail at the recreation area. Hike west on the Nehantic-Pachaug Trails over Mount Misery, then head north on the Nehantic Trail when the Pachaug splits off to head south. The Dry Reservoir Lean-to is a short distance north on the Nehantic Trail. Total mileage, ~11 miles.

Day 3: Backtrack on the Nehantic Trail and Nehantic-Pachaug Trails to the junction where the Nehantic heads south and the Pachaug goes north. Follow the Nehantic Trail south to Fish Road. Total mileage, ~6 miles.

When to Hike the Pachaug-Nehantic Loop

Spring: April can be a good month for hiking as trees begin budding and wildflowers bloom; May is warm and still mostly bug-free. March is iffy. During my hike in early March streams were swollen—one required knee-deep wading—and trails were filled with water in low spots after a week of heavy rain. Temperatures for my hike were 29 to 45, but a few days later they reached the upper 60s.

Summer: Buggy, humid, and hot.

Fall: My favorite time for backpacking. The days begin cooling off in September, and October brings peak New England foliage. November can continue to have good weather good for hiking, but hunting season begins in the state forest.

Winter: Snow is rare, and when it falls usually melts within days, making the Pachaug a good winter hike if you have cabin fever.

The Pachaug-Nehantic Loop Terrain

The trail is mainly flat as it meanders through pine and hardwood forests. The Pachaug Trail follows low ridges north of Green Fall Pond and then rocky, steep ridges north of Beach Pond.

Mount Misery is the only significant climb on the Pachaug-Nehantic loop.

Ponds, marshes, and streams are plentiful, some next to the trail, others visible in the distance through the trees.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water

Permits: Permits are required to stay at the four shelters in Pachaug State Forest. Dispersed camping is not allowed. Information on obtaining permits from the Connecticut Department of Energy & Environmental Protection can be found here.

Shelters: Dawley Pond and Dry Reservoir shelters are on the loop I hiked; Peg Mill and Legend Wood shelters are on the Narragansett Trail, which connects with the Nehantic and Pachaug Trails at Green Fall Pond. The shelters do not have bear boxes or privies.

Water: Streams and ponds are close enough along the trail that I didn’t worry about running short of water. I carried a liter and never ran dry.

Route-finding: The Pachaug and Nehantic Trails are marked with solid blue blazes; side trails use different-colored blazes and most are marked with signs. Blazes are sparse on road walks but signs mark trail turnoffs into the woods.

Know Before You Go

Clockwise or Counterclockwise?: It’s personal preference. I hiked the Pachaug-Nehantic Loop counterclockwise to get the longer-mile days out of the way on the first two days, with an easy hike to my car on day three.

Private Land: Parts of the loop pass through private land, making it important to follow the camping guidelines to preserve trail access.

Parking: The Connecticut Forest & Park Association, which maintains the 825-plus miles of blue-blazed hiking trails in Connecticut, has an interactive map on its website showing trails, shelters, and trailhead parking, with directions to the trailheads.

Transportation: Driving your own vehicle is the only practical way to get to the trail.

Cell Reception: Good throughout the forest.

Trail Guide: The Connecticut Walk Book is the ultimate guide to Connecticut’s blue-blazed trails. The book is compiled by the Connecticut Forest & Park Association, which maintains the trails, and can be purchased from the CFPA or through Amazon.

Trail Updates: Trail information such as reroutes and damaged bridges can be found here. But the information does not appear to be updated online to indicate whether problems have been resolved.

Ticks: Lyme disease was first identified in Connecticut, and the ticks carrying the disease can be active year-round. I spray my clothes with permethrin and do careful tick checks of my body after every hike in the woods.

About the Forest: At 26,477 acres in six towns, Pachaug is the largest state forest in Connecticut. The word Pachaug derives from the American Indian term meaning bend or turn in the river, referring to the 9-mile Pachaug River. The forest was inhabited by Narragansett, Pequot, Wampanoag, Nipmuck, Pocumtuck, and Mohegan peoples, most of whom were driven from their lands by European settlers.

Tree Damage: Gypsy moths heavily damaged oak and maple trees in the 2010s, evidenced by swaths of clear-cut forests and the number of dead trees on the ground in the Pachaug State Forest.

State Campgrounds in the Forest: The Green Fall Campground and Mount Misery Campground in the forest are car-camping sites that offer base camps for hiking.

Pachaug State Forest Resources

Pachaug State Forest

Interactive Map of Trails, Trailhead Parking, and Shelters

Backpack Camping in Connecticut

Weather

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Region: Mid-Atlantic (Adirondack Park, New York)

Length: 50 miles (3 to 4 days)

Physical Difficulty: Easy

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

Season: Spring, summer, fall

Net Elevation Gain: 4,094 feet

Hiking the Cranberry Lake 50

The Cranberry Lake 50 is in the northern reaches of Adirondack Park, but doesn’t have the soaring mountains of the park’s High Peaks. What it does have is a gently rolling up and down trail with campsites spread out on Cranberry Lake and the many ponds surrounding it.

I met six people while hiking, so this doesn’t have the crowds of the High Peaks. One hiker said this is what drew him to the route.

Trailhead access is from Wanakena and Cranberry Lake, small villages with friendly people and seasonal homes lining the northern shore of the lake. The roadwalk through Wanakena is along quiet roads, and people in homes and passing cars waved to me, asked me if I was “hiking the 50,” and offered water. Most of the walk through Cranberry Lake is on Route 3, a busy two-lane highway with wide bike lanes for walking so there’s less interaction with people in the village.

I parked at the Gilbert Tract trailhead on Route 3 east of Cranberry Lake. My car was the only one in the lot on Wednesday morning; four other cars were parked there when I returned the following Saturday.

The trail from the Gilbert Tract trailhead meanders through hardwood forests and bogs, with plank bridges providing dry passage through the bogs. The first Cranberry Lake campsites are about four miles in on Brandy Brook Flow. A few miles later a side trail leads one mile to East Inlet and more campsites on the lake.

The trail heads away from the lake and begins crossing ridges, passing Curtis and Dog ponds, both with small campsites. I stayed my first night at Dog Pond with two other hikers, stretching out on shoreline rock ledges while resting after a roughly 12-mile day. The next campsite was about 6.5 miles away at Chair Rock Flow on Cranberry Lake, and I didn’t have it in me to continue. So I ate supper by the pond and watched the sunset.

The second day I headed out early with no specific destination. Lean-tos at Olmstead and Cowhorn ponds, campsites at Cat Mountain and Glasby ponds, and lean-tos and campsites at High Falls were all possibilities. This section of the trail has the most elevation gain of the hike, but it wasn’t anything that beat me up.

The trail passed through wilderness forests, at times on what appeared to be old logging roads. Shortly after passing Cat Mountain Pond I had a decision to make: hike the 1.4-mile round-trip spur trail up Cat Mountain (2,257 feet) or continue on to camp at High Falls. I chose the mountain, and the trail was moderately steep with a short rock scramble near the top. The view from the rock ledges on the mountaintop took in the Five Ponds Wilderness to the south, an area I’ve often thought about visiting. And if I had set aside more than four days for this trip, that would have been a possibility.

Once down from the mountain I decided that hiking on to High Falls was out and I headed for Glasby Pond, less than a mile away. The campsite at Glasby Pond is small, but has a short path to the pond, where I filtered water, ate supper, and chatted with another hiker spending the night. In the morning I had breakfast by the pond and watched the sunrise. Total miles for the day (including Cat Mountain) was about 16.

Day 3 was an easy hike to High Falls, about .4 of a mile off the CL50, and the trip was well worth it to see the falls on the Oswegatchie River. This is a popular overnight site, with lean-tos and several campsites.

Back on the 50 the trail follows a mostly straight, flat line about nine miles to Wanakena. Along the way the trail crosses several beaver dams, with the water flowing over the dams ranging from ankle deep to higher, depending on the amount of recent rain. The worst crossing was ankle deep when I went through.

The hike to Wanakena was easy, but I found the flat trail and scenery monotonous. Plus I was pushing myself to to rack up miles to have an easy last day back to my car. Passing through Wanakena cheered me up as I found the people ready with a wave or hello. I regret not stopping for a drink and snack at Otto’s Abode.

My day ended at the tent site near loop 1 on the Peavine Swamp Trail, a nice spot but the only campsite I saw on the 50 that was not on the water. While falling asleep I heard barred owls screeching on one side of the campsite and traffic on nearby Route 3 on the other side. Total miles for the day was about 17.

The fourth day was an easy six-ish miles through woods and on roads back to my car east of Cranberry Lake. I made sure to stop for a snack and drink at the Lakeside General Store, right on the trail on Route 3. It’s a popular stop for CL50 hikers in summer, but hiker visitors had dropped off by the time I stopped by.

How to Get to the Cranberry Lake 50

Find it: Wanakena and Cranberry Lake

Closest city: 2.5 hours north of Syracuse, New York.

You can also start from Albany (3.25 hours) or Plattsburg (2 hours). All three cities have airports, but you’ll be driving from there to Wanakena and Cranberry Lake.

Parking: There are several spots for parking in Wanakena and Cranberry Lake. I parked at the Gilbert Tract trailhead.

• Recreation area on South Shore Road in Wanakena
• Peavine Swamp trailhead on Route 3 west of Cranberry Lake
• Department of Environmental Conservation boat launch on Columbian Road in Cranberry Lake
• Gilbert Tract trailhead on Route 3 a short walk east of Cranberry Lake
• Burntbridge Pond/Brandy Brook trailhead, on Route 3 about 2 miles east of Cranberry Lake. This involves a short hike to the 50.

About the Cranberry Lake 50

The Cranberry Lake 50 is a collection of existing trails in the Five Ponds Wilderness and Cranberry Lake Wild Forest within Adirondack Park. The 50 is clearly marked with bold blue trail markers stamped with the number 50 and it’s hard—but not impossible—to miss a turn and go the wrong way at a trail junction. (Yes, I did miss a turn but corrected it.) Clearly marked side trails lead even deeper into the wilderness and campsites on ponds.

The trail is well-maintained, with only a few blowdowns blocking the trail. All were easy to walk over or around.

Cranberry Lake was created in the late 1800s when the Oswegatchie River was dammed, and got its name from the cranberry bogs around the river. The dam now provides hydroelectric power.

When to Hike the Cranberry Lake 50

Spring: May can be a good month for hiking, between the likely last snowfall and before the onset of bugs. March and April can be cold with snow a strong possibility, and the bugs begin swarming in June.

Summer: Buggy, wet, and warm. Some people prefer the summer when they can swim in the ponds.

Fall: My favorite time for hiking. The temperature was in the mid 60s during the day and low 40s at night when I hiked the third week of September. The maple trees around the lakes were ablaze with red and the sky was brilliantly blue for four days. I can’t remember when the last time was I had a string of days like that.

Winter: Hiking the 50 in the winter is possible, but the snow will be deep and the temperatures low. Snowmobiles use some of the trails that make up the 50 so it’s important to watch out for them.

The Cranberry Lake 50 Terrain

The trail from Wanakena to High Falls is on an old logging railroad, and can be tedious in its unrelenting flatness. Several beaver dam crossings can be overflowing with deep water in spring and high-rain summers. Although some hikers avoid going counterclockwise from Wanakena to avoid the certainty of wet shoes early in the hike while crossing the beaver dams, the flat trail is an easy first-day hike. And your shoes are going to get wet eventually along the trail.

The trail from Route 3 in Cranberry Lake also starts with little elevation change along planks through several deep-water bogs. Only after reaching Cranberry Lake in several miles does the trail begin rolling up and down along ridges, and continues that way to Glasby Pond a few miles east of High Falls.

The 50 follows roads in Cranberry Lake and Wanakena, and an easy trail links the two villages.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water

Permits: No permits are needed to hike the Cranberry Lake 50.

Camping: Lean-tos at High Falls, Cowhorn Pond, and Olmstead Pond, and primitive campsites at other ponds and Cranberry Lake; most have an open privy, and a few have picnic tables. Campsites are marked on the Cranberry Lake 50 map.

Water: Streams and ponds are spread out along the trail so you don’t have to worry about running short of water. There are several beaver ponds on the trail between High Falls and Wanakena, but I don’t recommend getting water from them. I filtered water drawn from streams running into ponds or away from ponds to avoid beaver activity in the ponds.

Route-finding: Blue discs with 50 inscribed on them are nailed to trees along the trail. The markers are easy to see and it’s rare to hike far without seeing one.

Water Crossings: Bridges span most wide streams. But the beaver dam crossings on the trail between High Falls and Wanakena are covered with water, ranging from ankle deep when I hiked in late September to much deeper in spring and a heavy-rain summer.

Know Before You Go

Clockwise or Counterclockwise?: There’s no right answer. Some people hike clockwise to leave the beaver dam crossings and guaranteed wet feet to the end of the trail. Others go counterclockwise because the trail from Wanakena to High Falls is the flattest section. When I hiked I met three people hiking clockwise (four including me) and three counterclockwise, so it’s really personal preference.

Transportation: Driving your own vehicle is the only practical way to get to the trail.

Cell Reception: Surprisingly good in the village of Cranberry Lake, but I couldn’t get reception anywhere else, including in Wanakena.

Trail Guides: The Cranberry Lake 50 Pocket Guide, by Jamie Savage & Spencer Morrissey, Wildcliff Press, was updated in spring 2023 and sold out almost immediately. Other sources for information are the Western Trails guidebook and the National Geographic Adirondack Park (Old Forge/Oswegatchie) map. I used the National Geographic map for trail mileage and the Cranberry Lake 50 organization trail map available here for campsites and shelters along the trail.

Trail Stops: Otto’s Abode in Wanakena and the Lakeside General Store in Cranberry Lake are right on the trail and are must stops for a cold drink and snacks. Both are near trailhead parking.

Lodging: Packbasket Adventures, 12 South Shore Road Extension, Wanakena. Overnight stays, breakfast, packed lunches. Shuttle to Cranberry Lake 50 trailheads. (315) 848-3488

Wildlife: Moose and bears are in the woods, but they’re seldom seen. Red squirrels are seen much more frequently, especially at campsites where they’re trying to raid food stashes. I carry a bear can and had no problems. A fellow hiker at one campsite had a difficult time finding a suitable spot to hang his food bag. Loons live on the lakes, and their haunting calls fill the forest. And of course beavers are active along the trail.

Trails in the 50: The Cranberry Lake 50 combines existing trails to create a loop around Cranberry Lake. Details on those trails can be found on the CL50 website under trail descriptions.

Regulations: State land hiking and camping regulations for the CL50

The 50 Patch: Register your hike and donate a minimum of $5 to get a patch for completing the Cranberry Lake 50.

Behind the 50: The Cranberry Lake 50 is a project of Five Ponds Partners, created to draw people to northwestern Adirondack Park.

State Campground: The New York State-run Cranberry Lake Campground is off Route 3 in Cranberry Lake.

Don’t Rush: The Cranberry Lake 50 can be hiked in three days and two nights. I did it in 3.5. But there are so many side trails leading to ponds deeper into the wilderness that I could easily see spending a week hiking pond to pond. And if you like to fish that’s even more incentive to stay longer.

Cranberry Lake 50 Resources

The Cranberry Lake 50

Cranberry Lake 50 Facebook group

The Cranberry Lake 50 Pocket Guide by James Savage, a professor at the Ranger School in Wanakena.

Western Trails guidebook

Adirondack Park (Old Forge/Oswegatchie) map

Local weather

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Region: Southwest (Zion National Park, Utah)
Distance: 35 miles (optional side trails for 5.4 additional miles) 

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• Two-mile section of trail is through sand
• Minimum distance hiked one day is ~12 miles 
• Several long water carries

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Permits are necessary
• Point-to-point, must shuttle or hitchhike
• Clearly marked trails

Season: Spring, Fall
Elevation (average): 6,500 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 4,885 feet (-6,670 feet)

Hiking the Zion Traverse Trail

This route crosses Zion National Park from the northwest to the southeast and showcases an amazing sampling of the park while avoiding the infamous national park crowds until the last three miles. The route is usually traveled from north to south and passes by Angels Landing near the end of the trail (hence the crowds). We started at Lee Pass Trailhead in the northwest corner of the park. This trailhead is not used as much as those along the scenic highway, and you will see very few people in this area of the park. 

The trail starts with a long descent through a wooded area and has some incredible overlooks of the mountains and Kolob Canyons. Next, you come to the river and follow it through the canyon until reaching your campsite for the evening. There is an optional side hike to Kolob Arch, which I recommend. This is a beautiful area where you are surrounded by the colorful red rock Zion is known for.

 The second day, you will continue through the canyon with some minor climbs and will end up in a cattle pasture on private land (they have an agreement with the national park). This sounds boring, but the views from this section were some of my favorites—lots of beautiful red mountains in every direction with happy cows grazing nearby! After this, you reach the section of trail through sand (great for working on those calf muscles). Here you get overlooks of rock-climbing areas. This section is very exposed and there is little shade. The trail continues into the center of the park where the landscape becomes more sparse. The second evening we camped alongside a canyon.

On day three, you pass through a dense forest, which was the only section of the trail I didn’t think had jaw-dropping beauty. However, the views of the afternoon made up for it as we reached the West Rim Trail and the 360-degree views of the heart of Zion. There are some great campsites here with amazing overlooks. 

On day four, we continued along the West Rim Trail with some ups and downs carved out from the rock on the mountain. This brings you to Angels Landing and MANY tourists, which can be a shock after seeing almost no one. After your optional detour to Angels Landing (permits required), continue down a paved trail of switchbacks to reach the shuttle on the scenic highway. This trail is a wonderful showcase of the beauty and diversity within Zion. 

Note: The Zion Traverse used to continue to East Zion, but a rockfall on the Weeping Rock Trail in August 2019 has made it impossible to continue the hike past the scenic drive. We asked some locals about when this trail could be reopened and the answers ranged from 10 to 40 years. Prior to the rockslide the trail was very unstable and getting approval to make a new trail in a national park is a very complicated process. I wouldn’t plan on being able to do the full Zion Traverse including East Zion for many more years.

Zion Traverse Permits

Zion National Park permits are found here.

We started looking at backcountry / camping permits in mid-September for any weekend in October (about 4-6 weeks out). There was only one weekend that still had available campsites. Camping in Zion is all reservation based, but there is some walk-in availability and some locations where you can choose your site when you arrive, though you still need to reserve in advance.

There are three main camping areas: Kolob Canyons, Wildcat Canyon, and West Rim. For Kolob Canyons, the ideal sites are 7, 8, 9, and 10 because staying here cuts down your mileage for the second day and allows you to take the short side trip to Kolob Arch. 

Wildcat Canyon is an at-large camping area, so you do not need to book a specific site. We found it a little challenging to find a good campsite in this area, so be sure to ask the rangers for advice. 

The West Rim campsites I would recommend are 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5. Campsites 1 and 2 are near a seasonal water source, we stayed at 2 and had an incredible view of the canyon.

For the Kolob Canyons and West Rim campsites, only half are available online, the other half are walk-ins. We booked sites online and “upgraded” to some walk-in sites when we picked up our permit. Personally, we were unwilling to risk not securing a permit. 

Be prepared for permit pickup to take 30-60 minutes. The backcountry office issues many different permits that must be picked up in person, so this was a much longer line than I have seen in other national parks. 

*Adding Angels Landing requires an additional permit which is fairly competitive. There are rangers stationed at the beginning of this hike checking permits at all times. You can learn more about the options for securing this permit here.

How to Get to the Zion Traverse

Closest Major City: Las Vegas, Nevada (150 miles)
Trailhead 1– Lee Pass Trailhead 
Trailhead 2– The Grotto (you cannot drive here, must take the free shuttle from the main visitor center)

If you do not live within driving distance, I recommend flying into Las Vegas and renting a car. Zion is about three hours from the airport and this gives you the chance to add side trips to Valley of Fire State Park, Bryce Canyon National Park, or explore other areas of Zion. You can take a shuttle from Las Vegas to Zion, but it can take seven hours and involves a layover in St. George. We landed in Las Vegas at 10 p.m. and stayed at a dispersed camping site about halfway and finished the drive in the morning. 

Because this hike is point-to-point, you must car shuttle, hire an outfitter, or hitchhike. We only had one rental car, so we hired an outfitter to shuttle us between the two trailheads. There were two options that we could find last fall, but now I see many other options. We used Red Rock Shuttle for a ride from Springdale to Lee Pass Trailhead departing at 9 a.m. The cost was $55 per person with a four-person minimum (including other parties) or they cancel. This is the lowest price I have seen.

We did meet two guys at Lee Pass Trailhead who hitchhiked. They said they got a ride to La Verkin, and then were able to pay someone about $40 to get a ride to the Lee Pass Trailhead. If you are flexible on time, this could be an acceptable option but it isn’t very reliable considering how out of the way the starting trailhead is from a town or another point of interest.

We parked our car at the main Zion National Park visitor center and walked about a mile to the outfitter to get on the shuttle. The parking at the outfitter was $20/day, but the Zion Visitor Center has free overnight parking for those with backcountry permits. It can be hard to get a parking spot at the visitor center during the busy season, so make sure to get there early.

Because this is a national park, there is an entrance fee. You can either buy a seven-day pass to Zion, use the America The Beautiful Pass, or buy an annual pass to Zion. Whatever option you choose, you must bring the pass with you on the shuttle. When you take the shuttle to Lee Pass Trailhead you are leaving the park and re-entering. We got a firm scolding for leaving our pass in our car. 

At the end of our hike, we took the free park shuttle from the Grotto Trailhead back to the visitor center and retrieved our car. We stayed one more night at the main park campground and split a group campsite with other backpackers we met on the trail. I would recommend spending some time driving the highway through East Zion after your hike; there are lots of pretty places to park and explore the washes. 

When to Hike the Zion Traverse Trail

The best time of year to hike this route is spring and fall. Winter can be too cold with the possibility of snow and guarantee of below-freezing temperatures at night. On the opposite side, summer is too warm for such an exposed trail with limited/seasonal water sources.

In my opinion, the best times would be April, May, September, or October. We hiked this trail the last weekend of October and experienced highs in the 50s-60s and overnight lows in the 20s. Crowding is not a big issue as this hike is permitted and there are many people who choose to just do a single night in the backcountry and hike out-and-back. There were only two other people doing the full route when we were. 

Zion Traverse Sample Itinerary

Day 1: 6.5 mi. Lee Pass Trailhead to Kolab Canyons site 10 

Day 2: 12.6 mi. Kolab Canyons site 10 to Wildcat Canyon

Day 3: 13 mi. Wildcat Canyon to West Rim site 2

Day 4: 4.4 mi. West Rim site 2 to The Grotto

For a sample two-day itinerary, you would only camp at Wildcat Canyon.

Zion Traverse Terrain

The trail goes back and forth between forested areas and exposed desert areas, with the primary terrain being exposed desert. The trail is very well-maintained and well-marked. The only difficulty in losing the trail would be after a snowfall. Sections of the West Rim Trail can be very muddy depending on the time of year. The entirety of the trail is well-developed and all intersections are well marked. With the GPX downloaded and this map you are more than prepared.

Zion Traverse Logistics

WAG Bag Requirement: You are required to use a WAG Bag within national park boundaries. However, this can be avoided pretty easily. There are pit toilets at the Hop Valley Trailhead and at the base of Angels Landing. Also, after passing through Wildcat Canyon there is a section of trail where you leave national park boundaries, meaning you can dig a cathole here. You should carry a WAG Bag just in case regardless.

Zion Traverse Water: There are three reliable spring water sources available that are evenly spaced out. Some of the other springs are seasonal. When picking up your permit from the backcountry office they will have detailed information about the springs. In addition, many of the shuttle companies will drop off a water cache at Hop Valley Trailhead for an additional fee or you can cache water yourself before starting. It is important to get updated information on the cyanotoxin that has been found in many creeks throughout Zion; at the time of this writing all creek and river water has been deemed unfilterable in Zion and you should avoid submerging your head in it. 

Know Before You Go

I would recommend securing permits before counting on doing this trail, unless you have the time and flexibility to go to the backcountry office with several different start dates. Also, because of the exposure on this trail, weather plays a factor. Completing this trail in the depth of summer heat or winter snow would not be recommended. The Zion NP area can see extremes in both directions. It’s important to realize that extreme and unpredicted weather can emerge in this topography: hail and thunderstorms, unexpected snow, and extreme heat and cold.

Resources

Permits 
National Park Service 
Map 

Abby Fincel resides in Missouri and is always trying to maximize her PTO to get in one more trip out West. She’s infamous to her coworkers for working a full day, flying out after work, and hitting the trail the next morning. She fell fully in love with backpacking after hiking the JMT in 2021 and spends many of her days working as a dentist daydreaming about her next outdoor adventure. When not hiking, she can be found training for marathons. She just completed her 10th marathon, in addition to running the Boston Marathon. Running and backpacking both satisfy her outdoor itch and endorphin addiction. 

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The Titcomb Basin Loop is a 44-mile route through the Wind River Range in Wyoming. Highlights of this trip include the namesake Titcomb Basin with an off-trail opportunity to dive deeper into the backcountry.

Day 1 (Elkhart Park – Pole Creek Trailhead to Titcomb Lakes)
Day 2 (Titcomb Lakes to Trapper Lake)
Day 3 (Trapper Lake to Elkhart Park – Pine Creek Trailhead)

Titcomb Basin Loop At-a-Glance

Region: Mountain West (Bridger Wilderness, Bridger-Teton National Forest)
Distance: 44 miles (3-5 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult
—Exposure at high elevations (sun, thunderstorms)
—Sections of loose talus and Class II scrambling (Knapsack Col only)
—Off-trail navigation (Knapsack Col only)

Logistical Difficulty: Easy
—Permits are free and self-issued at the trailhead
—Loop route (no shuttle required)
—Camping is undesignated
—Water is plentiful

Season: Summer, Early Fall

Elevation (average): ~10,500
Total Elevation Gain: 7,411 feet

Hiking Titcomb Basin Loop

Titcomb Basin is a bucket-list backpacking destination in Wyoming’s Wind River Range. The area can be quite popular (by Wyoming standards), but the broader Bridger Wilderness provides ample opportunity for solitude. It’s easy to think of the loop as having three distinct sections: The first section introduces you to the Wind River’s granite monoliths en route to Titcomb Basin; the second section follows the Continental Divide northbound, carrying you deeper into the high country; and the third section is the home stretch, leading you through thick forests before returning you to your car.

I completed this route in three days over Labor Day weekend in 2022. Most hikers I encountered were in the first 14 miles of the trail before reaching Titcomb Basin.

Pole Creek Trail introduces you to the Wind River Range by leading you through dense forests and several meadows before spitting you out at Photographers Point. This section of trail gives you time to warm up your legs and make pack adjustments as needed. (Conversely, if you start the loop in a clockwise direction, you’ll begin with a 1,700-foot descent to Pine Creek … not fun.) From here, you’ll remain above 10,000 feet elevation, weaving around many large and small lakes. Both Seneca Lake (mile 9) and Island Lake (mile 12) are excellent camping options before reaching Titcomb Basin at mile 14.

The basin comprises a series of Titcomb lakes that are surrounded by towering 13,000-foot granite peaks: Henderson Peak to the west, Jackson, Fremont, Sacagawea, and Mount Helen to the east. Most hikers and backpackers will travel in and out the basin via the southern drainage (toward Island Lake). Having read trip reports that mentioned the Knapsack Col alternative (exiting the basin to the north), I knew I needed to give it a try! This is an off-trail route that is both challenging and rewarding for experienced hikers. I recommend researching current trail conditions (closer to your departure date) and assessing your physical capabilities. Route finding, rock scrambling, scree climbing: If this does not appeal to you, return to Island Lake, and continue north on the Highline / Continental Divide Trail.

Approach Knapsack Col by following the Titcomb Basin Trail north until it ends. From here, follow the creek and begin a boulder scramble. The creek is coming from a small lake at 11,700 feet. Continue west up a small saddle before gaining sight of Knapsack Col (identifiable by the snowfield at its base). Approach the col by angling up and across the scree slope. The snowfield I encountered in early September was easy to avoid by following the slope up and to the right. This 1.5-mile section through the upper basin was the highlight of the trip for me.

The remainder of the route, as they say, is all downhill. Follow the faint user trail down to Peak Lake where you regain the maintained trail system. Climb up and over Shannon Pass before reconnecting with the Highline / Continental Divide Tail. This section of the route (along the CDT) is very exposed. The trail grade is not challenging; however, I completed this during the middle of Day 2 and it was very hot. A hat, sun hoody, and sunscreen would be very helpful. Thankfully, water is abundant. 

At Summit Lake, you will leave the CDT to complete the loop along Summit Lake and Long Lake Trails. Along the way, there are many lakes to camp at. After logging 18.6 miles on Day 2, I set up camp at Trapper Lake. There is a sandy beach along the north side of the lake that was unfortunately occupied by other campers when I arrived. I found a more secluded campsite along the western shore and spent the evening rehydrating myself and my dog with plenty of electrolytes.

Wildfire smoke had blown in on my final day as I left Trapper Lake. I began the steep descent (2,300 feet) to Pine Creek, where I refilled water, before a final climb (1,800 feet) back to my car.

How to Get to Titcomb Basin Loop

Closest Major City: Pinedale, Wyoming

Elkhart Park – Pole Creek Trailhead is the most direct route to reach Titcomb Basin. The Elkhart Park recreation area is a 15-mile drive from Pinedale (25-30 minutes). Pick up any last-minute snacks you need at Obo’s Market and Deli before you head up the mountain. There is a large parking area at the trailhead with vaulted toilets but no fresh drinking water. Trails End Campground has 8 sites and operates on a first-come, first-serve basis ($12/night).

When to Hike the Titcomb Basin Loop

Midsummer to early fall is the best time to hike in the Winds. The route travels between 9,000 to 12,000 feet elevation and annual snowfall is an important consideration when timing your hike. Snow may linger at high elevations late into the summer. Labor Day was an ideal time. I encountered no snow on the trail (avoiding the small snowfield on Knapsack Col), negligible bugs, and several late wildflowers.

Even in summer months, make sure you prepare for mountain weather as rain and thunderstorms can develop quickly, and overnight temperatures may drop significantly.

Titcomb Basin Loop Terrain

Much of the route is well marked, graded, and easy to follow. You will encounter some rocky sections, and should expect several long, sustained climbs. The most challenging section of this hike is the off-trail route over Knapsack Col. I recommend tackling this section early in the morning while your legs are fresh and the sun is still low in the sky.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Leave No Trace

Permits: None! Titcomb Basin and the surrounding area are part of the Bridger-Teton National Forest (Bridger Wilderness). Permits are only required for organized groups. Check the US Forest Service website for additional details.

Camping: Bridger Wilderness regulations (and Leave No Trace principles) specify that campsites must be at least 200 feet away from a lakeshore or trail, and 100 feet away from a stream, creek, or spring. It is always best to look for existing-use sites. Mind these regulations if you plan to set up camp at Titcomb Basin; these sites can be difficult to find. Many spots that appear to be existing camp sites around Titcomb Lakes are illegal (given the 200-foot rule). It’s also worth checking above Titcomb Lakes at Mistake Lake, where a few additional sites exist.

Food Storage: Black bears and grizzly bears are present in the Bridger Wilderness and proper food storage is required. Since many areas of the route (including Titcomb Basin) are above treeline, a hard-sided bear canister is recommended. I use the BearVault BV500, which is large enough to carry a few days’ of food, plus toiletries, dog food, and trash at night.

Campfires: Campfires are permitted only below timberline. Cutting or removing standing wood is not allowed. Use established fire rings, pans, or mound fires where fires are permitted.

Know Before You Go

Weather: Weather conditions and temperatures can change rapidly in the Winds. Check forecasts leading up to your trip, but also prepare for wet, windy, or generally colder-than-expected weather. Mountain-forecast.com is a great resource to get localized weather forecasts for the Wind River Range, which allows you to search weather by mountain peak (e.g., Fremont Peak, which towers over Titcomb Basin).

Bears: There is a possibility of encountering black and grizzly bears in the Winds. Carry bear spray and know how to use it. I also like to carry a bear bell. I can’t guarantee the effectiveness, but they are cheap, lightweight, and easier to use than trying to talk to yourself to make noise.

Water: Water is plentiful along the Titcomb Basin Loop. Treat all water with portable water filters, chemical methods, or by boiling. I prefer the Katadyn BeFree Water Filtration System that doubles as a water reservoir.

Off-Trail Navigation: The route described should only be attempted by experienced hikers. That said, Knapsack Col is manageable as a beginner / intermediate off-trail route. The climb is steep, and you will be carrying your backpacking gear, so expect a slower pace. You should be comfortable reading the terrain and have access to both paper maps and electronic navigation systems.

Hiking Titcomb Basin with a Dog: Dogs are allowed in the Bridger Wilderness but should be under control at all times and kept away from other people and wildlife. I have a reactive dog and found the majority of pet owners were allowing their dogs to hike off-leash. This made me very nervous for the safety of my dog, for the safety of their dogs, and for the safety of wildlife in general.

My dog is an experienced backpacker. She was able to navigate the Class II scramble approach to Knapsack Col quite effectively but struggled on the loose talus toward the top of the climb. We encountered another backpacker with a dog (wearing boots) coming up the col from the west side. This route is attainable but challenging for both two- and four-legged friends.

Resources

Bridger Wilderness Regulations (website)

Local weather for Fremont Peak (website)

Inger Appanaitis lives in Northern Colorado and recreates throughout the Mountain West. Her home base includes Rocky Mountain National Park and the Indian Peaks Wilderness. She enjoys thinking about, planning, and executing long days on the trail. Follow along for dogs, training, and the outdoors @ingerfied

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Region: New England (Connecticut, Massachusetts)

Length: 215 miles (14 to 20 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

Logistical Difficulty: Difficult

Season: Year-round
Highest Elevation: 1,617 feet
Lowest Elevation: 0 feet
Net Elevation Gain: 30,000 feet

Hiking the New England Trail

The New England Trail threads its way through heavily populated private land and preciously preserved public land from Long Island Sound in Connecticut north to Royalston Falls in Massachusetts and the terminus at the New Hampshire border. Most of the trail follows the rocky Metacomet Ridge, with expansive views of farmland and encroaching suburban housing developments below, and at times the trail skirts the edges of residential yards and follows paved roads. Despite that closeness to suburbia, there’s solitude in the woods, especially in winter, when I hiked most of the trail.

The woods tell the story of early New England: stone walls built by farmers, a graveyard for smallpox victims, and stone caves where men fighting with post-Revolutionary War insurrectionist Daniel Shays reportedly camped.

The 21^st century tells a different story: encroaching suburban neighborhoods and battles to secure the trail’s path where it passes through private land.

And that’s what makes thru-hiking the NET a challenge. The on-trail campsites are on public land or private land with landowners’ permission, and hikers are advised to leave the trail for overnight accommodations if not staying at a designated campsite.

The southern and northern trail sections have the most sites, with only three overnight sites in the wide gap in between. Observing the guidelines against stealth camping means paying attention to when you need to get off trail to sleep. Although the trail frequently crosses roads, many of them pass through suburban neighborhoods that don’t offer opportunities for resupply and lodging.

And be aware that if you choose to stealth camp, you may be pitching your tent in someone’s backyard.

Roadwalks are the bane of thru-hikers, and the NET has plenty of them. The Western Massachusetts Chapter of the Appalachian Mountain Club and the Connecticut Forest & Park Association, which together maintain the trail, are working to move those roadwalks into the woods and establish more campsites.

Lyme disease was first identified in Lyme, Connecticut, a town near the trail, and it’s now present in ticks all along the trail. It’s a good idea to check daily for ticks—even in winter—and treat your clothes with Permethrin to repel them.

Copperheads and timber rattlesnakes live along the trail in Connecticut and southern Massachusetts, although it’s rare to see one. They are considered endangered in both states.

How to Get to the New England Trail

The southern terminus on Long Island Sound in Guilford, Connecticut, is an easy reach using public transportation. The northern terminus in Royalston Falls has no public transportation and cell coverage is spotty. The New England Scenic Trail Hikers Facebook page has information on people willing to shuttle hikers in Connecticut and Massachusetts.

Northern Terminus

The trailhead parking in Royalston Falls is .7 miles from the northern terminus at the New Hampshire border. The TTOR Lean-to is near the terminus, so it’s possible for northbound thru-hikers to stay there after reaching the terminus or stay at the shelter to begin a southbound hike.

Although Uber and Lyft say they have drivers who go to the northern terminus, actually getting someone to drive you may be a different story.

Public transportation to the northern terminus is possible, but involves planning and several steps. Greyhound and Amtrak both stop at the John W. Olver Transit Center in Greenfield, Massachusetts, and from there a Franklin Regional Transit Authority bus goes to Orange, Massachusetts. An Uber or Lyft could be possible from Orange to the terminus at Royalston Falls, about a 16-mile ride.

Another possibility is taking the MBTA Commuter Rail from Boston to Fitchburg, Massachusetts, and setting up an Uber or Lyft to the northern terminus. It’s about 34 miles from Fitchburg to Royalston Falls.

Because of spotty cell reception at the northern terminus arranging an Uber or Lyft from there is dicey. If you’re heading north the Mt. Grace peak is a good spot to arrange a pickup at the northern terminus.

Southern Terminus

Getting to the southern terminus at Chittenden Park on Long Island Sound in Guilford is much easier.

Nearby New Haven, Connecticut, is a major rail and bus hub, and from New Haven the Shoreline East train runs to Guilford, where the NET passes through the station. Hikers taking the train to Guilford walk a short distance to the southern terminus, turn around, and begin their northbound hike, passing back through the train station.

The following public transportation options provide access to the southern terminus:

Amtrak Hartford Line: Commuter service from Springfield, Massachusetts, to New Haven. Amtrak trains from Burlington, Vermont, and Montreal, Canada, also stop along this line.

Amtrak: Nationwide rail service that has a stop in New Haven.

Metro-North: Rail service from Grand Central Terminal in New York City to New Haven.

Shoreline East: Train from New Haven to Old Saybrook, Connecticut, with a stop in Guilford.

Peter Pan: Bus service to New Haven from cities in Connecticut and Massachusetts.

Greyhound: Bus service to New Haven from cities across the country.

When to Hike the New England Trail

Spring: Late March through mid-May are good times for starting at Long Island Sound. The snow should be gone by then, although late March and April snowstorms are always possible in northern sections. Late May into June can be irritatingly buggy.

Summer: Hot, humid, and still buggy. A dry summer can make water supplies low and the hike difficult.

Fall: Cooler temperatures, no bugs, and the leaves are starting to change color by late September. September rains can replenish water supplies.

Winter: Snow is rare near the coast, more likely from northern Connecticut to the Massachusetts-New Hampshire border. Still, in southern Massachusetts and all of Connecticut it’s rare lately that snow on the ground lasts more than a week after a winter storm.

The New England Trail Terrain

The trail starts at sea level on Long Island Sound in Guilford, and follows roads north through Guilford for about 3 miles before climbing atop the Metacomet Ridge, whose craggy, reddish cliffs are made up of traprock, a volcanic basalt rock. Hikers climb up and down the mostly dry ridge, high above suburban housing developments and nearby cities, as it winds through Connecticut and southern Massachusetts.

Those ridgetop climbs and sweeping views from open cliffs are repeated along the trail through Connecticut: Trimountain; Beseck Mountain, where the trail passes close to the steep ridge cliff; Mount Higby, with views south to Long Island Sound and north to Mount Tom in southern Massachusetts; Chauncey Peak, which drops steeply to Crescent Lake on one side and a working quarry on the other; Lamentation Mountain; the Hanging Hills; and Ragged Mountain, popular with rock climbers.

Along the way Castle Craig in the Hanging Hills and Heublein Tower farther north provide good views of the surrounding land in Connecticut, and can be packed with day trippers.

Soon after entering Massachusetts hikers encounter the Westfield River, which can be crossed if the water is low. If the water is high a shuttle is the best way to cross the river. Go to the New England Scenic Trail Hikers Facebook page and search for “Westfield River shuttle” to find people who drive hikers across the river.

The trail then passes the Harold Akey Tentsite, the last established tentsite until the Erving State Forest shelter some 50 miles north. A short distance north the trail climbs East Mountain on switchbacks and continues along the mountain’s ridge before descending to state Route 202.

The next major climb is Mount Tom, 1,202 feet high. The trail continues through the Mount Tom Range, passing over Whiting Peak, Goat Peak, and Mount Nonotuck, before descending to Route 5 on the west side of the Connecticut River.

The river is too deep and wide to cross, and a roadwalk to cross the nearest bridge is about 10 miles. The trail starts well away from the river on the east side and getting to it from the river requires bushwhacking through private land, so finding a boat ride across the river might not be the best idea.

Many thru-hikers shuttle to Northampton, Massachusetts, or Hadley, Massachusetts, to rest and clean up at a hotel, and resupply for the rest of the hike.

The trail east of the river starts in Skinner State Park on Mountain Road in Hadley, and climbs to the Summit House, with restrooms and water, on Mount Holyoke. From there the trail passes over Mount Holyoke, Mount Hitchcock, Bare Mountain, Mount Norwottuck, and Long Mountain through the Mount Holyoke Range. The trail through the range is packed with panoramic views and up and down rock scrambling, with a steep drop and climb between Bare and Norwottuck mountains. The Notch Visitor Center between the two peaks has flush toilets and water. Norwottuck, at 1,106 feet, is the highest peak in the range.

After coming down from the Holyoke Range, the trail meanders gradually up and down before reaching the moderately flat Quabbin Reservoir watershed, the most isolated section of the trail. Four towns were abandoned to fill the reservoir that supplies water for Greater Boston, and the lands around Quabbin are empty and protected.

Farther north the trail climbs Stratton Mountain and Mount Grace, at 1,617 feet the highest peak on the trail, before ending at Royalston Falls and the New Hampshire border.

It’s possible to do 15- to 20-mile days on the trail, making a thru-hike in 14 to 20 days within reach. Because the trail crosses so many roads multi-day hikes with stops at overnight campsites can be combined with daylong section hikes.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water

Permits: No permits are needed to hike the New England Trail.

Camping: Some of the designated camping sites, such as the Richardson-Zlogar Cabin in Massachusetts, require reservations. Fires are not allowed at campsites in Connecticut, and stealth camping along the trail is discouraged. Trail maintainers are working to add more overnight sites.

The sites from south to north are: Godman Group Campsite, Cattails Shelter, Lamentation Mountain Primitive Tentsite, Windsor Locks Scouts Primitive Tentsite, Harold Akey Tentsite, Mt. Holyoke Outing Club Cabin, Wendell State Forest Lean-to, Richardson-Zlogar Cabin, Mt. Grace Lean-to, and TTOR Lean-to at Royalston Falls. Campsite details can be found here.

Campsites are nicely spaced between the southern terminus and Lamentation Mountain Primitive Tentsite and between the Wendell State Forest Lean-to and the TTOR Lean-to at Royalston Falls near the northern terminus. But the long gap between Lamentation Mountain and the Windsor Locks Tentsite may require getting off trail for the night. The same goes for the gap between the Connecticut River and the Wendell State Forest Lean-to.

The Richardson-Zlogar Cabin, with its wide open vista east to Mount Grace and Mount Monadnock, and a beautiful sunrise view, is the gem of the trail’s shelters. The cabin is locked and needs to be reserved online to get the lock code. It’s also possible, but not necessary, to reserve the tentsites as they rarely fill up.

Although the NET website lists the Mt. Holyoke Outing Club Cabin as an overnight site, the guidelines on picking up and returning a key make the cabin an impractical option.

The Windsor Locks tentsite is near Bradley International Airport, and planes taking off frequently passed noisily overhead while I camped there; the lights from one plane lit up my tent.

Water: Few of the campsites have natural water sources, and water can be scarce along the trail from Long Island Sound to the northern end of the Holyoke Range. Some overnight sites have water caches, but it’s best not to rely on them. Water is easier to find north of the Holyoke Range.

Route-finding: The trail is marked with blue blazes in Connecticut, white blazes through Massachusetts. M&M signs (Metacomet and Monadnock, the trail name in Massachusetts before it became the New England National Scenic Trail) are nailed to trees alongside white blazes in northern Massachusetts. Numerous side paths cross the NET, so paying attention to blazes is important. If your mind wanders in thought on trail like my does it’s easy to miss a turn blaze and head down a side path instead of staying on the NET. And keep in mind that sometimes at trail junctions the most heavily used path that lies ahead might not be the NET.

Rivers: The Westfield River in Massachusetts can be waded if the water is low. The roadwalk around the river crossing is 3.7 miles on busy roads, so it’s best to arrange a ride if the river is high. The Connecticut River in Massachusetts can be crossed by roadwalking 10.2 miles along high-speed, high-traffic roads. Some hikers arrange a ride to lodging in Northampton or Hadley after the trail reaches the western bank of the Connecticut, resupply, and resume walking the trail the next day on the eastern bank.

Parking: The NET website has an interactive map that shows parking areas along the trail, describes how many cars each spot fits, whether they’re lots or road shoulders, and provides directions to them.

Trail Angels: Some people along the trail help with rides, lodging, and water caches, but there isn’t a well-established system of hostels and shuttle drivers. Search the New England Scenic Trail Facebook page for people willing to shuttle hikers or post on the page that you’re looking for a ride.

Know Before You Go

On to Canada: It is possible to hike from Long Island Sound in Connecticut to Canada following the NET; the New Hampshire Metacomet & Monadnock Trail and the Monadnock-Sunapee Greenway in Southern New Hampshire; and the Cohos Trail in northern New Hampshire. Several options link the Greenway to the Cohos Trail, with information about them on the NET to Cohos Trail Facebook page.

North or South?: Which direction to hike can depend on the season or how you’re getting to and from the termini. If you’re starting in late winter or early spring setting off at Long Island Sound makes it less likely to encounter snow in the north. Starting in the north during the fall means hiking with the foliage as it changes color north to south.

Arranging transportation to the northern terminus is complicated, while southern terminus transportation is easy because the trail passes through a train station a short walk from the terminus. So hiking south means getting the complicated trip planning out of the way and scoring an easy ride at the end of your hike.

Spur Trail: A ~28-mile NET spur trail runs from near Broomstick Ledges in Guilford to the Connecticut River in Middletown, Connecticut. Once at the river, it’s necessary to backtrack to the main NET. The spur is considered part of the New England Trail, but is it part of a thru-hike? Many thru-hikers walk past the spur trail. The NET website, however, says hikers have to walk every mile of the trail to get an NET finisher patch.

Resupply: Meriden, Connecticut, and Hadley are good jumping-off points for lodging and resupply. Small restaurants and stores on or near the trail also provide food options, but north of Hadley lodging and food stores are far from the trail. The trail passes through the parking lot of Guida’s Restaurant on Route 66 between Beseck and Higby mountains in Connecticut, making it a favorite thru-hiker stop. The trail also passes through the small village of Tariffville, Connecticut, which has some restaurants.

Cell Reception: Cell phone reception is good from Long Island Sound through the northern end of the Holyoke Range. After that it’s good on peaks, but not reliable down low.

Trail Guides: Paper maps of the New England Trail—one for Connecticut, one for Massachusetts—are available here. The maps show trail section mileage but not elevation. The NET online interactive map gives information on camping, directions to trail parking, and section mileage. FarOut has an NET app.

Gun Ranges: Multiple gun ranges and an archery range are near or right next to the trail in Connecticut and Massachusetts.

One of 11: The New England Trail is one of 11 National Scenic Trails. The others are the Appalachian Trail, Arizona Trail, Continental Divide Trail, Florida Trail, Ice Age Trail, Natchez Trace, North Country Trail, Pacific Crest Trail, Pacific Northwest Trail, and Potomac Heritage Trail.

National Park Status: The New England Trail was granted national park status by the U.S. National Park Service in late 2023.

NET’s Origins: The New England Trail was designated a National Scenic Trail in 2009, and is comprised primarily of the historic Mattabesett, Menunkatuk, Metacomet, and Monadnock trails in Connecticut and Massachusetts. Those trail names are still used along sections of the NET.

New England Trail Resources

The New England Trail: Trail website with an interactive map showing campsites and parking. Maps of the trail through Connecticut and Massachusetts are also available.

FarOut: Mobile app of the NET available.

Amtrak

Shoreline East

Metro-North

Peter Pan bus

Greyhound bus

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The 55-mile Teton Loop is an alternative to the popular Teton Crest Trail, with fewer logistical hurdles, and an opportunity to experience the full diversity of Grand Teton National Park.

Region: Mountain West (Grand Teton National Park)
Distance: 55 miles (2-5 days)

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Steep terrain, including two 3,000-foot climbs
• Climbing and descending at high elevations
• Exposure, sun, and thunderstorms at high elevations

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

Season: Summer, early fall

Total Elevation Gain: 9,643 feet

Hiking the Teton Loop

This 55-mile loop allows hikers to experience the Tetons from almost every angle in the park, including low alpine forests, steep granite canyons, and high alpine ridges. Attempting the route in two days is challenging yet rewarding. You could turn this route into a longer endeavor but this requires additional work navigating the park’s competitive backcountry permit system.

My strategy in attempting this loop was to keep things simple. I was willing and capable to hike long days with a light pack. I had initially tried and failed to secure an advance reservation permit in January when they are first released. Without this advance permit, however, I had the flexibility to wait and monitor current weather and wildfire conditions until I was ready to begin my hike.

The park allocates two-thirds of backcountry camping for first come, first served permits. To secure one of these permits, I arrived at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station at sunrise the day before my desired start date. While I was not the first visitor in line at 5 a.m., many of the people ahead of me were requesting climbing permits. Whether trying to secure an advance reservation or a first come, first served permit, be prepared with several alternative itineraries. The stars aligned and I was granted my first choice start date and camping zone. 

The Grand Teton National Park website warns hikers to expect travel of no more than 2 miles per hour, with an additional hour for every 1,000 feet of elevation gain. My plan was to start at the Jenny Lake Trailhead and camp at the Death Canyon Shelf camping zone, splitting the loop into two even-mileage days (final mileage being 28.6 and 26.7 miles). My pace was brisk but comfortable and I enjoyed longer breaks at water sources when needed. 

How to get to Teton Loop

Closest Major City: Jackson, Wyoming

This route can be accessed from several trailheads along Teton Park Road with overnight parking permitted at the following trailheads: String Lake, Jenny Lake, and Lupine Meadows.

Parking at these trailheads overnight is only allowed with a backcountry permit (more on permits below). Car make, model, and license plate information are recorded on your backcountry permit (no physical parking permit is issued). One advantage of starting and ending at Jenny Lake is the Jenny Lake Store. If you are exiting the park headed north, this is one of the few food options as you head up Highway 191 toward Yellowstone National Park.

When to Hike the Teton Loop

Midsummer to early fall is the best time to hike the Teton Loop (I highly recommend aiming for wildflower season!). Other conditions you may consider when planning for this trip:

Snow Level: Snow may linger at higher elevations.

Wildfires: Breathing conditions, let alone views, can be severely impacted by heavy wildfire smoke later in the summer. It depends on the year, but keep tabs on air quality and wildfire locations.

Bugs: I did not encounter any bugs but I would recommend carrying bug spray as insurance.

Weather: Daytime and overnight temperatures can fluctuate dramatically from the valley floor to the Teton Crest.

Afternoon Thunderstorms: I experienced light rain and some thunder all three days I was in the park. Bring a rain jacket!

It is also important to remember that Grand Teton National Park is home to many large mammals. During certain times of the year these animals are more or less active. For example, the peak of the Rocky Mountain elk breeding season runs from mid-September through mid-October. I carried a bear bell (and bear spray) to alert larger animals of my approach. Bear canisters are required for food storage in the backcountry. Canisters may be checked out for free when you pick up your permit. 

Teton Loop Terrain

The Teton Loop has varied terrain but nothing too challenging. Starting at Jenny Lake, the route leads you through a large meadow before entering the alpine forest along the Valley Trail. This section of trail is spotted with numerous lakes and creeks and water is ample. As you begin climbing up to the crest, you will encounter rockier terrain; however, trails are well maintained along the remainder of the crest.

Teton Loop Logistics: Permits, Camping, Leave No Trace

Permits: A backcountry permit is required for all overnight stays in Grand Teton National Park. Camping is only permitted in designated camping zones. Regardless of the processes outlined below, make sure you have several alternative itineraries on hand when securing your permit.

The advance reservation system is highly competitive! One-third of permits are reserved for each camping zone. Reservations for the summer season are accepted January through May (check the park website to find out what day and time they are released for the current season). Reservations are accepted on recreation.gov and require a $45 nonrefundable processing fee. 

The remaining two-thirds of permits are saved for first come, first served. These permits are available at the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center, Colter Bay Visitor Center, and the Jenny Lake Ranger Station. Permits are available the day of your start day or one day in advance. There is a $35 fee for each walk-in backcountry permit.

Camping: Some of the backcountry camping zones of Grand Teton National Park, such as Marion Lake, have “improved” sites with designated tent sites and bear boxes. Other camping zones lack these amenities and backpackers should use existing bare ground sites to minimize impact. You must always camp at least 200 feet from water and the trail, so that you are out of sight and sound of others. 

Leave No Trace: Campsite “improvements,” such as constructing benches and digging trenches, are prohibited. Fires are also prohibited in the backcountry. Visitors are required to carry out all food scraps and trash (including toilet paper and used tampons or sanitary pads). These items can be disposed of at the Jenny Lake Trailhead when you complete the loop. Additionally, bury all human waste 6-8 inches deep in soil that is at least 200 feet from lakes, streams, and wetlands.

Know Before You Go

Weather: Weather conditions and temperatures can change quickly in the Teton Range. Check forecasts and be prepared for cold temperatures, especially at higher elevations. Weather forecasts for Jackson, Wyoming, or Moose, Wyoming, (the closest towns) may not reflect conditions at higher elevations. Check with a park ranger when you pick up your permit for more accurate information.

Bears: Black and grizzly bears live in Grand Teton National Park. Carry bear spray and know how to use it. Backcountry campers are required to use an Interagency Grizzly Bear Committee approved canister for storing food, toiletries, and garbage. (Bonus: They also protect against rodents!) 

Water: Water is available from the many lakes and mountain streams. Treat all water with portable water filters, chemical methods, or by boiling. Assume all untreated water contains harmful organisms.

Difficulty: The route described should only be attempted by experienced hikers. Steep climbs and changes in altitude could negatively impact hiking endurance and overall physical health. Prepare yourself with good physical conditioning and basic first aid staples such as ibuprofen, blister care, and electrolytes.

Shorter Options: Listen to your body and take one of the cutoffs described above if needed.

Additional Teton Loop Resources

Backcountry Camping – Grand Teton National Park (website)

Backcountry Camping – Grand Teton National Park (pdf)

Backcountry Permits –Recreation.gov (website)

Inger Appanaitis is a modern-day Viking leading solo expeditions through the Pacific and Mountain West regions. Despite growing up on the Southern Oregon Coast, she thrives in the alpine! Some of her favorite areas to explore are the Eastern Sierra, San Juan Mountains, and the Northern Rockies (Beartooths, Sawtooths, Tetons, and Winds…oh my!). Follow along for dogs, training, and trails @ingerfied

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Popular as a cycling route but also prime for backpacking, the Maah Daah Hey Trail is a 144-mile point-to-point route across the badlands and prairies of western North Dakota. It passes through Theodore Roosevelt National Park and features stark landscapes, abundant wildlife, and unique geological formations. 

Region: Plains Midwest (North Dakota)

Length: 144 miles (10-14 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

• Summer and winter conditions tend to be extreme, best to hike in the shoulder seasons.  
• The trail is moderately graded with a moderate amount of climbing.
• Lots of wind and sun exposure with little shelter or shade.

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate

• Water is scarce, water boxes can be used to cache ahead of time if desired.
• Both termini are remote though a shuttle service is available.
• Trail is well marked and maintained.
• Permit not required.

Season: Late spring, early or late summer, fall

Elevation: 1,978 – 2,940 feet
Total Elevation Change: (South to North) +16,149 feet, -16,710 feet

Hiking the Maah Daah Hey Trail

The Maah Daah Hey Trail winds through western North Dakota, connecting the north and south units of Theodore Roosevelt National Park. Well known in the mountain biking community as one of the nation’s premiere stretches of single track, it is still relatively unknown in the backpacking world. For those willing to travel to this remote location, manage potentially long water carries, and brave an often unforgiving landscape, this trail has a lot to offer for backpackers as well as those traveling by bike or horseback. 

The Maah Daah Hey Trail offers hikers a unique opportunity to travel through remote landscapes in nearly complete solitude while remaining on a well-maintained and well-marked trail. Rustic campgrounds are located roughly every 20 miles along the trail and have both potable water and latrines. The town of Medora is located one-third of the way along the trail and can serve as a resupply point. It also provides opportunities for food and recreation before or after your hike. 

Hikable in 10 to 14 days, the Maah Daah Hey Trail makes a good intermediate hike. Because of the scarce water, the amount of exposure, and the potentially extreme temperatures, I would not recommend this trail to beginners. For those with some experience, it is not particularly strenuous or demanding. 

How to get to the Maah Daah Hey Trail 

Nearest City: Dickinson, North Dakota (40 minutes)

Dickinson has the nearest airport and is a 40-minute drive from the closest town of Medora, around two hours from either terminus. Bismarck, ND, has a slightly larger airport and is an additional 1.5 hours away. 

Both termini, CCC Campground in the north and Burning Coal Vein campground in the south, are easily accessible on mostly paved roads. Other campgrounds and trailheads along the Maah Daah Hey are more difficult to reach. 

There is a shuttle service offered by Dakota Cyclery in Medora. As the name suggests, they primarily cater to mountain bikers but they are happy to accommodate hikers as well. Cost for a one-way shuttle from Medora (for up to four people) people is $250. Vehicles can be left at the shop. 

Keep in mind that if you plan on using the designated water boxes to cache water for yourself, caching will take between a half and a full day. 

When to Hike the Maah Daah Hey Trail

The wells at the campgrounds are turned on each year in May. It is not recommended that you hike when the wells are not in service, as they are the only reliable sources of water on trail. If you are hiking before Memorial Day, it would be a good idea to call ahead and make sure the water is on before you go. The best time to hike this trail is within relatively narrow windows in late spring or early fall. Winters are prohibitively harsh and the town of Medora mostly shuts down in the off-season. Summers get surprisingly hot in the Badlands: it is not uncommon for temperatures to reach 100 degrees Fahrenheit. 

If you choose to hike in the spring, be aware that when it rains the bentonite clay in the Badlands becomes a real mess. Things tend to dry out quickly and it is recommended that you refrain from tearing up the trail by waiting until things dry if it becomes too muddy. Ticks are often abundant in the spring but the species in the area do not carry Lyme disease. 

The Maah Daah Hey Trail Terrain 

Most hikers will average between 1,500 and 2,500 feet of elevation gain per day on this trail. There are some steep and extended climbs but the trail was built with bikes and horses in mind so it tends to be nicely graded. While often dry and dusty, the clay that makes up the Badland formations becomes sticky, slippery, and difficult to traverse when it does rain.

Maah Daah Hey Trail Logistics: Permits, Camping, Resupply and Water

Permits: A permit is not required to hike this trail and camping permits are only required within the Theodore Roosevelt National Park boundary. I did not camp within the park, but make sure you call ahead if you plan on setting up camp within national park boundaries.

Camping: Many people will choose to camp at the primitive campgrounds along the trail, as they are the only reliable sources of water beyond what you cache yourself. They are reasonably priced at $10 per night and are equipped with a hand pump for water and a pit toilet. For those who prefer dispersed camping, there are plenty of opportunities in the national grassland. Make sure to pay close attention to your map, however, as the trail does pass through private and state land where camping is prohibited. 

Resupply: Medora is located one-third of the way along the trail. It is about 1.5 miles into town along a paved bike path. Resupply options are fairly limited but there is a small general store and a few restaurants. Hours can be limited so you may want to call ahead. If you are utilizing the shuttle service, you also have the option to leave a box in your vehicle or at Dakota Cyclery. Again, just make sure they will be open when you plan to pick it up.  

Water: Procuring water is the most challenging aspect of the Maah Daah Hey Trail and requires that you have a plan before starting. If you are confident hiking 20 miles or more between water sources, the trail can be done with only a single water cache. The cache is easily accessible and on the way to the southern terminus, so there is really no reason not to utilize it.

If that distance is outside your comfort zone, you will need to cache more water ahead of time. There are designated water boxes provided for this purpose along the way. Make sure to label your water with your name and the latest possible date you would plan to use it. “Expired” water can sometimes be found in the cache boxes and is free for the taking, however, you should not rely on it. Some of the water boxes are very remote and seldom used. 

Waterbox Locations (Mile markers run south to north)

Besides the water caches, hand pumps at the campgrounds are the only other reliable source of drinking water. The water from the pump is technically potable but tends to be very cloudy. If you are picky about such things you might consider filtering it. There are a few stream and river crossings but they are all drainages that come from the Badlands, and we don’t recommend drinking from them even after filtering. They apparently have high mineral/metal content and tend to clog filters with sediment. They also aren’t conveniently located so I didn’t bother. I did filter out of a few cattle tanks near the north end of the trail, but they are inconsistent.  

Know Before You Go

Plentiful wildlife: Bison, wild horses (in TRNP), pronghorn, mule deer, prairie dogs, prairie rattlesnakes, and bull snakes can all be found along this trail. You will also encounter plenty of cattle grazing on the national grassland and private property. Be aware of your surroundings and give the wildlife plenty of space (especially the bison and rattlesnakes).  

Have a plan for drinking water! It is hard to overstate the importance of this as it is the most challenging aspect of the trail. If you plan on hiking before Memorial Day, call ahead and make sure the water pumps have been turned on. 

Check the water levels before attempting to cross the Little Missouri River: The trail crosses the Little Missouri twice (Sully Creek and Elkhorn). The water levels are typically fine for crossing but it can be impassable in the spring or after heavy rains. Check USGS or download RiverApp and search for “Little Missouri River (ND).  

Resources 

Dakota Cyclery – Shuttle Service

Guide Book

Trail Maps

The Maah Daah Hey Trail Association 

bikepacking.com 

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Region: New England (Maine)

Length: 99.4 miles (5 – 10 days)

Physical Difficulty: Moderate

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

Season: Spring, summer, fall
Total Elevation Gain: ~15,000 feet
Maximum Elevation: 3,654 feet

Hiking the 100-Mile Wilderness

BPR editor Hugh Owen was 22 when he hiked the Appalachian Trail through the 100-Mile Wilderness in 1975 on his first long-distance backpacking trip, carrying close to 50 pounds on his back and barely enough food. He wore cotton clothes and was woefully short of warm layers.

He picked up a trail partner on his second day, and met maybe six other hikers in the Wilderness. It’s a trip that started his love for backpacking.

Hugh relied on youthful hubris during his hike, but the Wilderness is not to be taken lightly. It’s rugged in sections, and isolated. A food resupply is recommended for anyone taking more than 5 days to hike.

But the rewards are immense for those who prepare physically and mentally.

The northern section is filled with remote lakes. Farther south the trail crosses several peaks with stunning views of the lake-studded land below.

And at night the sky is ablaze with stars in an area designated as an International Dark Sky Park.

Starting at Abol Bridge and heading south the AT is relatively easy as it skirts the lakes. The three main climbs in the early section are over Rainbow Ledges and Nesuntabant and Little Boardman mountains.

The AT briefly follows the same path as the Great Circle Trail near Nahmakanta Lake.

The terrain becomes more challenging as it enters the White Cap Range, climbing steeply to White Cap Mountain (3,654 feet).

The view from White Cap takes in the lakes to the north, and for hikers coming from the south, their first view of Katahdin in the distance. The trail continues over Hay, West Peak, and Gulf Hagas mountains before descending to the West Branch of the Pleasant River.

The trail begins climbing again to cross the Barren-Chairback Range and its five peaks: Chairback, Columbus, Third, Fourth, and Barren. The views through the range are some of the best in the Wilderness.

The trail also passes East Chairback, West Chairback, and Cloud ponds, geographically known as tairns, bodies of water created by the scouring of glaciers.

The trail drops after Barren Mountain and continues on a mostly flat path to Monson. Water crossings can be difficult at Long Pond and Big and Little Wilson Streams. Near the Little Wilson Stream crossing the trail passes Little Wilson Falls, the highest waterfall on the AT in Maine.

The Wilderness ends at Maine Route 15, 3.5 miles north of Monson.

How to Get to the 100-Mile Wilderness

Access to the Wilderness is from Abol Bridge in Millinocket, Maine, in the north and from Maine Route 15 in Monson in the south. The Appalachian Trail Hostel & Outfitters in Millinocket and Shaw’s Hiker Hostel in Monson provide lodging and long-distance shuttles.

The nearest airport is Bangor International, about 72 miles from Millinocket and 56 miles from Monson.

Cyr Bus Line stops in Medway, about 11 miles from Millinocket, on its daily run between the Concord Coach Lines station at 1039 Union St. in Bangor and Caribou, Maine. The bus leaves from the station across the street from the airport at 5:30 p.m. daily, and arrives in Medway at 6:40 p.m. An Appalachian Trail Hostel shuttle can pick you up in Medway.

The hostel has a daily 9 a.m. shuttle to the Medway Cyr bus stop, where you can catch the 9:30 a.m. bus to Bangor.

The shuttles are primarily for overnight guests, but non-guests can make arrangements for one.

Concord Coach Lines travels to Bangor from Boston, Massachusetts; New York City; and multiple cities and towns in Maine and New Hampshire.

Greyhound also has a bus that runs to 360 Odlin Road in Bangor from Boston and New York City. The station is about 3 miles from the airport.

Cars can be parked long-term at Abol Bridge while hiking the Wilderness, and can be parked at Shaw’s for $1 a day.

When to Hike the 100-Mile Wilderness

Mid June to early July is a good weather window for early-season hiking, though bugs can be bothersome. Summer is hot, humid, and buggy, and best avoided. September after Labor Day and early October are mostly cool, and the foliage begins turning in late September. Youth groups often overwhelm campsites in the summer. Southbound Appalachian Trail hikers typically begin their trip from Katahdin through the Wilderness in June, and northbound thru-hikers begin trickling through in July. September brings a crush of northbound thru-hikers.

100-Mile Wilderness Terrain

The trail crosses streams that need to be forded, and some of the crossings can be difficult. Some hikers carry water shoes for water crossings; others wade through with shoes on and empty out the water on the opposite shoe.

The terrain varies from soft duff to rocks that can be slippery when wet.

White Cap Mountain is the highest peak at 3,654 feet.

Logistics: Permits, Camping, Water

Permits: No permits needed for the Wilderness, but one may be needed to hike Katahdin north of the Wilderness.

This is from the Baxter State Park website:

“All backpackers who enter or exit the Park via the A.T. need a permit. In order to stay at the Birches Long Distance Hiker Campsite, hikers should have completed at least 100 miles of the A.T. contiguous to the Park immediately prior to entering the Park. In other words, they should have hiked continuously northward—without leaving the A.T.—from Monson or a point farther south.”

Camping: Shelters and hardened tentsites are abundant along the Appalachian Trail, but be wary of shelter mice that are adept at getting into food. Campfires in the Wilderness are allowed only at shelters and designated campsites. Campsites and lean-tos designated on the Maine Appalachian Trail Club maps have privies, but no bear boxes. Dispersed camping is allowed on the trail except near Nahmakanta Lake.

Water: The trail passes many streams and ponds, and it’s a good idea to filter or purify water. Most shelters and campsites have reliable water sources.

Resupply, Shuttles, and Lodging

Shaw’s Hiker Hostel, Monson: Hearty breakfast, rooms, food drops, shuttles, hiker-friendly gear and food store

The Lakeshore House, Monson: Lodging, restaurant,

100 Mile Wilderness Adventures and Outfitters, Monson: Lodging, shuttle

Appalachian Trail Hostel & Outfitters, Millinocket: Rooms, shuttles, food drops, hiker friendly gear and food store

Whitehouse Landing Camps: Not a resupply stop, but a chance to sleep in a dry bed, wash clothes, and eat a home-cooked meal. Sound the horn once at a dock and the owner will cross Pemadumcook Lake in a boat when he has time.

Know Before You Go

The 100-Mile Wilderness is as wild as it gets in New England, but it’s not totally cut off from civilization. Logging roads pass through the forest, and hunting and fishing camps dot the many lakes.

The logging roads provide access to the Wilderness so it’s possible to resupply during a thru-hike or do a section hike. As logging has declined in the Wilderness conservation groups and the state of Maine have purchased land, and 330,000 acres of the Wilderness are now conserved forests.

Cell phone coverage is spotty, with the best coverage on peaks, so it’s a good idea to carry a satellite communicator.

Should you hike north or south? Hiking north gets the hardest section out of the way first; hiking south lets you ease into the trail and save the peaks for the end. Another possibility is to section hike using a shuttle.

100-Mile Wilderness Resources

Maine Appalachian Trail Club: The Appalachian Trail Guide for Maine can be purchased online at the MATC website. Maps 1-3 cover the 100-Mile Wilderness.

Appalachian Mountain Club: The club’s Moose Point Cabin, Gorman Chairback Lodge and Cabins, Little Lyford Lodge and Cabins, and Medishwa Lodge and Cabins are near or within the Wilderness, and provide good opportunities for day hiking.

Appalachian Trail Visitor Center, Monson

FarOut: The app has a guide for the Appalachian Trail in Maine.

Shaw’s Hiker Hostel

Appalachian Trail Hostel & Outfitters

Baxter State Park

atweather.org

BPR editor Hugh Owen hiked the 100-Mile Wilderness southbound in September 1975 as part of an Appalachian Trail hike through New England. BPR co-founder Maggie Slepian passed through the Wilderness at the end of her northbound AT thru-hike much later.

The post The 100-Mile Wilderness appeared first on Backpacking Routes.

Region: New England (Nahmakanta Public Lands, Maine)
Length: ~30 miles (2-4 days)

Physical Difficulty: Easy

Logistical Difficulty: Easy

Season: Spring, summer, fall

Total Elevation Gain: ~3,000 feet

Hiking The Great Circle Trail

The Great Circle Trail links 14 miles of new trails with existing trails in Maine’s Nahmakanta Public Lands, 43,000 acres of state-owned wilderness within the vast 100-Mile Wilderness. The trail connects seven pond-side campsites with options for exploring side trails that lead to other ponds deep in the wilderness.

The route was conceived in 2005 and finished in fall 2021, linking the Turtle Ridge Loop Trail, the Debsconeag Backcountry Trail, and two sections of the Appalachian Trail with newly carved-out sections. Seven primitive campsites are on ponds along the trail, making this an easy loop hike taking 2 to 4 days. The highest mountain on the loop is tree-covered Wadleigh Mountain at 1,866 feet.

The new trail sections are clearly marked as the Great Circle Trail, but the established sections carry their original names, making it difficult to know that you’re on the right path. Trail creator Jay Hall, whom I met during my hike, says GCT signs with mileage will be put on the older, established trails.

I used the Nahmakanta Public Lands map to follow the route, but still missed a trail turnoff at one junction. The new and established sections of the Great Circle Trail are marked with blue blazes, but so are other trails throughout the area. And the AT is white-blazed, with no indication that the GCT follows it.

I hiked the loop going counterclockwise in four days, taking my time to explore side trails to ponds, Tumbledown Dick Falls, and viewpoints, and climbing the rocky ledges of Turtle Ridge for a view of Sing Sing Pond below. The trail could be hiked in as few as two days, but what’s the rush?

Day 1: Park at the Turtle Ridge Loop Trailhead on Jo-Mary Road, and turn left (north) out of the parking lot onto the road. The Great Circle Trail-Tumbledown Section enters the woods on the right after about 100 feet and is marked with a sign. After about half a mile you’ll pass Leavitt Pond and a small campsite. Shortly afterward is the Tumbledown Dick Pond campsite, and a short distance later is Tumbledown Dick Falls. I recommend hiking a steep ~400 feet down a side trail to a pool at the base of the falls, especially on a hot day when you could take a cool dip.

The Tumbledown Section soon ends at the AT. Turn left (north) onto the AT and follow the white blazes to a dirt road on the south shore of Nahmakanta Lake. The AT continues straight, but GCT hikers turn right on the road, following a sign that points to the Debsconeag Backcountry. There are no blazes on the road. After about a mile reach a parking area on the left, where a sign points to the blue-blazed trail through the Debsconeag Backcountry. Follow the trail past Fifth Debsconeag Pond, over a small ridge, and drop down to Sixth Debsconeag Pond and a campsite on its shores.

Day 2: Continue following the Debsconeag Backcountry Trail, eventually turning away from Sixth Debsconeag Pond and crossing a low ridge to 1,100-acre Nahmakanta Lake. Follow the trail past the north shore of the lake and bear left at a sign for the West Trailhead. Shortly after crossing a log bridge the trail splits, and both trails have blue blazes. Bear left to stay on the GCT; the trail to the right continues to Eighth Debsconeag Pond.

Ford Rainbow Stream a short distance later, and then turn right on a dirt road. Reach the white-blazed AT after about half a mile and turn left on the AT. Right on the AT heads north to Katahdin.

The AT runs alongside Pollywog Gorge, and soon after the gorge you’ll turn right at a GCT-Pollywog Section sign. Once again you’ll be following the blue blazes of the GCT. The trail passes Pollywog Pond and eventually reaches the Pollywog Pond South Campsite.

Not long after Pollywog Pond the trail comes out to a dirt road on the north end of Wadleigh Pond. Turn right here and cross the pond outlet bridge. Left after the bridge leads to the group campsite and tent platform on the pond and right continues on the trail. There are two shelters and an old stone fireplace and chimney at the group campsite in a meadow, and a tent platform in the woods. Wood steps lead down to the pond and a great view.

Day 3: A woods road behind the shelters leads back to the trail, where you’ll bear left. After a short distance bear left again, following GCT signs. At another woods road bear left, and then make a quick right. The climb to tree-lined Wadleigh Mountain is moderate, and a side trail below the summit leads to a view of Katahdin.

The descent from the summit is briefly steep, then levels out through wet areas near Third Musquatch Pond. A short trail at the pond’s southern end leads to the Third Musquatch Pond campsite.

Continue on the GCT to the Katahdin View parking area, bear left onto the road and then right into the woods. Follow the GCT to the junction with the Turtle Ridge Loop Trail, where you’ll bear right. Shortly afterward cross the Sing Sing Pond outlet and bear left to the campsite. It’s about 3 miles from the campsite to the car, easily done in 90 minutes. I chose to camp at the pond and climb the Turtle Ridge Trail to Turtle Ridge and a great view of the pond.

Day 4: It’s ~3 smooth miles to your car on Jo-Mary Road. Continue alongside the pond and turn left at the sign for Rabbit Pond, then right at a second sign for Rabbit Pond. At this second junction I went left on day 3 to climb Turtle Ridge. The GCT crosses steppingstones at the Rabbit Pond outlet and climbs gradually along ledges, where you’ll have to keep an eye out for the East Trailhead sign on the left. (This where I missed the sign and continued straight by mistake.) After this junction it’s a quick walk to the road, where you’ll turn left to reach the parking lot a short distance away.

How to Get to the Great Circle Trail

Easiest Access: Turtle Ridge Loop Trailhead on Jo-Mary Road in the Nahmakanta Public Lands. I plugged Turtle Ridge Loop Trailhead into Google Maps and followed the directions from my home in Connecticut to the trailhead.

Katahdin View Trailhead: Located here on Google Maps.

From Greenville: This state brochure has complicated directions from Greenville.

Closest Towns: Millinocket, Greenville, Brownville

When to Hike the Great Circle Trail

The trail can be hiked June through October, though September and early October are probably the best months. June can be brutally buggy, and July and August can be uncomfortably hot and humid. The weather cools and the bugs mostly disappear in September and October. Light snow is possible in late September and early October, and heavier snow is always a chance in late October.

Great Circle Trail Terrain

The tread is mostly soft pine duff, with some rooty and rocky sections. There’s very little elevation gain, making this a great trail for a relaxing hike.

Logistics: Camping, Fees, Water

Camping: Seven pond-side campsites are spaced less than ~8 miles apart; Wadleigh Pond with its two shelters and wide open pond access is the jewel of the sites. Camping is free at all sites, and all have fire rings, pit toilets, and water access; some have picnic tables.

Hiking counterclockwise from the Turtle Ridge Loop Trail parking area the campsites are at Leavitt Pond, Tumbledown Dick Pond, Sixth Debsconeag Pond, Pollywog Pond, Wadleigh Pond (referred to as group site on signs), Third Musquatch Pond, and Sing Sing Pond.

Fees: Jo-Mary Road is a private road maintained for commercial logging, and recreational users pay a fee. Find information about the road here. There’s a checkpoint registration and pay station just north of the Jo-Mary Road junction with Route 11, and from there it’s a slow 16 miles to the Turtle Ridge Loop Trailhead parking. Logging trucks travel fast on the dirt road so it’s best to keep to the right and be alert.

Water: Every campsite is on a pond, which makes gathering water for meals easy, and there are frequent stream crossings. I carried a liter of water, filling up as needed when I passed a pond or stream.

Great Circle Trail Know Before You Go

Fishing: Because the ponds are close together it’s possible to arrive at camp early and spend time fishing. Information about Maine fishing licenses is here.

Maps: The GCT is marked on a map of the Nahmakanta Public Lands found here.

Trail History: Work on the GCT started in 2005 under the guidance of Jay Hall, Maine Parks and Lands’ Nahmakanta Unit forester, with help from the Maine Conservation Corps, the Maine Appalachian Trail Club, Caribou Parks & Recreation Department, and Unity College. Several years ago professional trail contractors were brought in. The trail opened in September 2021.

Jay says his trail planning, construction and maintenance experience in California, Oregon, Colorado, New Hampshire and Maine allowed him to pioneer trail routes efficiently, saving time that he needed for his timber management obligations in Nahmakanta. His youngest son helped finish some key projects, such as packing in and installing 120 trail signs and building the stone staircase at Wadleigh outlet.

Now retired, he plans to volunteer a few days each year to complete some items left from the final “punch list” of trail work.

Some of that work involves putting up GCT trail signs on old trails, and moving the trail off Fourth Debsconeag Lake Road from Nahmakanta Stream Bridge to the southeast Debsconeag trailhead. Because the bridge is in the AT corridor, relocating the trail will require coordination with MATC and National Park Service staff.

About the Nahmakanta Public Lands: The state-owned land encompasses 43,000 acres of forests and low mountains, streams and brooks coursing down steep slopes and running through narrow gorges, 24 ponds covering 10 or more acres, and more than 50 miles of undeveloped shoreline. Within the Nahmakanta Public Lands is Maine’s largest ecological reserve, 11,802 acres that include much of the 9,200-acre roadless area known as the Debsconeag Backcountry. Read the state’s brochure about the land here. Note that the map with this brochure does not show the new sections of the GCT

About the 100-Mile Wilderness: Since the Appalachian Mountain Club began its Maine Woods Initiative in 2003, the organization has acquired and permanently protected more than 100,000 acres of forest and fish habitat in Maine’s 100-Mile Wilderness. The Wilderness stretches from Monson, Maine, to Baxter State Park, and surrounds the GCT. The AT is the most popular trail for hiking through the Wilderness.

Resources

North Maine Woods

Download a map of the trail here

Check the weather forecast here.

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