By Tess Mullaney, May 2021 Gila River Loop Hiker
The Gila River Loop (Middle Fork-West Fork) is a 45-mile loop through the Gila Wilderness of New Mexico that can be hiked in 3-5 days. It features frequent river crossings, soaring canyon views, and the potential for additional miles or side trips.
Region: Southwest (Gila Wilderness, New Mexico)
Distance: 44.5 miles (3-5 days)
Physical Difficulty: Easy
- Frequent river crossings
- One major climb and descent, otherwise mostly flat terrain
- Exposed conditions; canyons can get hot during the day and cold at night
Logistical Difficulty: Easy
- No permits required
- Loop trail
- Abundant water near the Middle and West Forks
Season: Late Spring, Early Fall
Elevation (Average): 5,600 to 7,400 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 3,500 feet
Hiking the Gila River Middle Fork-West Fork Loop
The Gila River Loop (Middle Fork-West Fork) is a perfect early- or late-season route for anyone looking for a hike full of beauty and low in difficulty. Minus one big climb and descent, the route is mostly flat. However, innumerable water crossings, poison ivy, possible very hot and very cool weather, and varied, beautiful terrain remove the possibility for boredom.
I was looking for the perfect trip to bring my new-to-backpacking cousin something with low levels of suffering and high rewards. Besides both nights being pretty cold in mid-May, this route fit the bill. We were initially planning three nights out, but despite my inordinate caution around poison ivy, the evident burning and rash on my calves sped us up so that I could get to a shower and out in just two nights.
The Middle Fork of the Gila River is an extremely popular alternate with Continental Divide Trail thru-hikers (who can be encountered in the wild if you’re lucky). This northern part of the loop passes a small hot spring early on and Jordan Hot Springs 7 miles in, while the southern part passes Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument at the West Fork Trailhead—all worthy side trips. Since the national monument has limited hours, it’s worth planning your trip or loop direction around a visit (we arrived right after closing and were super bummed).
Overall, this is the perfect trip to bring a newbie backpacker willing to get their feet wet or a pleasant easing in or out of the hiking season. Views abound, water crossings add a fun challenge, and the beauty of the wild Gila will have you planning your next trip back before you’re even done.
How to Get to the Gila River Middle Fork-West Fork Loop
Nearest Cities:
Gila Hot Springs, New Mexico (4 miles)
Silver City, New Mexico (44 miles, 1.5 hours)
Deming, New Mexico (95 miles, 2 hours)
To make this route a loop, there is an easy 2-mile road walk between the Middle Fork and West Fork trailheads. You can begin at either Middle Fork or West Fork Trailhead, and head your preferred direction, starting with trail or road. Shuttles with Gila Backcountry Services are also available if you fly into Grant County Airport 12 miles outside Silver City or need a ride from Silver City.
Coming from any direction, Silver City is your last chance for real groceries before the hike. Immediately prior to entering the wilderness, you will pass through the small town of Gila Hot Springs, where the only real amenity is Doc Campbell’s Post, a popular stop for CDT hikers to load up on homemade ice cream. The store does have some light resupply options, but hours are limited. To start at the West Fork Trailhead, continue past Doc Campbell’s and turn left at the continuation of state Highway 15, following signs for Gila Cliff Dwelling National Monument. To start at the Middle Fork Trailhead, continue straight past the Gila Cliff Dwellings turn and the Gila Forest Service Visitor Center. The trailhead will be on your left.
When to Hike the Gila River Middle Fork-West Fork Loop
This route is best hiked in late spring, early summer, or early fall
Although this hike generally falls into the spring/fall category for backpacking, it is at a higher elevation than most low desert hikes and can therefore be a bit colder in spring. This especially applies to the portion of the loop where you switchback up the canyon to high desert ponderosa pines where temperatures drop considerably.
May/June and September/mid-October are ideal for warm daytime temps, cool nighttime lows, and avoiding summer crowding. This hike could be pushed further into the summer if you are prepared for daytime highs in the 90s. However, flooding is common in the Gila, so avoid late summer rains (July/August) when river crossings become dangerous and trails frequently wash out. Check here for the most recent trail conditions.
Gila River Loop Middle Fork-West Fork Terrain
While hiking along the Middle and West Forks of the Gila, the trail winds back and forth across the river, making for very frequent water crossings. Of the two forks, the Middle Fork contains the most water crossings, while the West Fork Trail is more direct and spends more time in the forest. In between getting your feet wet, the trail leads you through sand, brush, forest stands, rocky river beds, and lush vegetation (almost always including poison ivy).
Logistics: Direction, Land Management, Water
Loop Direction:
Counterclockwise: Head this direction to arrive at the hot springs on your first day, get the majority of the river crossings out of the way when your feet are fresh, and have a more cruisy hike out
Clockwise: This is the direction to go for fewer early-hike river crossings, and to soak your feet in hot springs near the end of your trip
Land Management: The majority of the loop is in Gila Wilderness, part of Gila National Forest, where camping is free and open. Be sure to follow LNT principles and use already established sites. The first few miles of the West Fork Trail heading north from the trailhead are in Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument. Camping isn’t permitted in the national monument, so be sure to give yourself enough time to get beyond the boundary, or you can choose to stay at either Upper or Lower Scorpion Campgrounds near the West Fork Trailhead.
Water: While walking along the Middle and West Forks, you will be crossing your water source every few minutes. When crossing from fork to fork, however, expect completely dry conditions and load up on water before you start the climb.
Prior Spring on top of the plateau between the forks is an unreliable water source and was dry for us. Check here for updates, especially if you are extending your trip to a different area in the wilderness.
Special Gear
Long Pants: I didn’t heed this warning and was punished for it. Even though I can ID poison ivy and did my best to avoid it, it still got on my legs. Trust me, it is everywhere. Wearing shorts isn’t worth the possibility of ruining your trip.
Neoprene Socks (optional): I didn’t feel a need for these, but if you are prone to very cold feet or don’t like being wet, they could be valuable for water crossings.
Know Before You Go
Side Trips:
Hot Springs: Half a mile in from the Middle Fork Trailhead is the small Lightfeather Hot Springs. If starting early in the day, it might be too early to stop, and isn’t quite as established of a soaking area. Jordan Hot Springs 7 miles in is a popular day hike destination and much more worthy of a soak. Look out for an easy to miss side trail to the north that takes you up a hill to the secluded hot spring. Expect crowds, especially if traveling on a weekend or holiday. Nearby campsites are limited. FYI: public nudity is not permited in the national forest. Also beware of the brain-eating amoeba Naegleria Fowleri present in these hot springs and do not submerge your head underwater.
Gila Cliff Dwellings: Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument is a worthwhile side trip at the beginning or end of your loop. You will pass by the small museum at the trailhead and a 1-mile loop trail guiding you through ancient cliff dwellings. They are open every day from 9:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Doc Campbell’s Post: If you are able to stop by here during their limited business hours, the homemade ice cream is the perfect way to cool off after your trip.
Add or Remove Miles: If you have the time or desire to extend your trip in the Gila, there are a multitude of other trail offshoots or loop extensions. Shorter loops are possible as well. For more trip ideas, I found this book to be helpful. Just be sure to check here for updated trail conditions and water information if adding miles.
Carry Water When You’re Crossing Between Forks: There is no reliable water on the plateau between forks, so load up before the climb!
Signage isn’t Always Clear or Existent: Pay attention to your maps when you know you’re nearing a trail crossing.
Make Sure Trails are Passable Floods and fires frequently damage the trail. Find updated conditions.
Flora and Fauna: We encountered one rattlesnake in the middle of the trail that we had to give a wide berth. Less harmless wildlife included thousands of tadpoles ranging from minuscule to enormous. In May, wildflowers and poison ivy were abundant. Know how to properly identify poison ivy.
Additional Resources
Triple Crown Hostel: Hiker hostel in Silver City, New Mexico. Great place to stay before or after your hike.
Gila Backcountry Services: Shuttles
Backpacking in the Gila Wilderness: US Forest Service
Gila Trails Info: Gila Trail resources
Tess Mullaney is an Arizona native with roots in the high-desert mountains. She enjoys writing about nature and experiencing the life-changing effects that the outdoors can provide. Besides hiking, she is often gardening, reading, or spoiling her black fluffy cat Ezra. You can find her Instagram here, or read more on her blog.