Granite Peak via West Rosebud Trailhead

This trail was hiked and written up by Dawn Brintnall

Granite Peak is a stunning mountain nestled in the Beartooth Mountains of South Central Montana. The peak is the highest point in the state at 12,799 feet. The standard approach is accessed via an out-and-back route starting at the popular West Rosebud Trailhead to Mystic Lake.

Region: Mountain West (Custer Gallatin National Forest, Montana)
Distance: 25 miles (round trip)
Season: Summer
Total elevation gain: 6,300 feet

Physical Difficulty: Difficult

• Steep hiking and scrambling at high elevation
• Class 4 climbing, with possible class 5 moves
• Relentless loose talus/rock fields

Logistical Difficulty: Moderate 

• No permit needed
• Water on route 
• Navigation skills necessary

Hiking the West Rosebud/Phantom Creek Trail to Granite Peak

The West Rosebud Trail is a highly approachable 3-mile section of this hike, on one of the most popular trails in Montana. The West Rosebud Trail begins at the power plant, then ascends through the forest to a rocky overlook before descending to Mystic Lake. Once at the lake, continue for another ½ mile before turning left onto the Phantom Creek Trail, marked with a wooden sign. 

If you read any other information for this trail, this is where you will start to encounter mentions of the “Switchbacks from Hell.” When first reading that name, I was prepared for a heinous sloped scree field. It turns out this is not the case at all,  and if I named this section, I would have called it “Just a Lot of Switchbacks, but it’s Actually Quite Pleasant.”

You will gain nearly 3,000 feet in around two miles, but you will do so on a level and well-maintained trail while bearing witness to a gorgeous, postcard-worthy scene as you rise above the lake, and eventually above treeline. (Pro tip: If you get bored, start counting the switchbacks with fun names, as I did. I counted 28 and named each one. E.g., 10 is Bien, 17: Yas Kween, 24: Just a few more!) 

Once you pass the switchbacks, you can gain the Froze to Death (FTD) plateau. There are multiple ways to do this, but there is a worn path marking a popular exit from the Phantom Creek Trail just past the switchbacks. This path will end shortly, and no dedicated trail exists from this point onward. Here is a good place to start using your navigation tools. I recommend using a GPX track on a mapping platform (I use Gaia, but OnX is another good option) to guide your path.

While the plateau has some visual landmarks and cairns, it can be easy to get turned around. Be sure to stay right of the gravelly peaks, including Froze to Death Peak, while you traverse the plateau. You will find water from snowmelt along the plateau as you continue on toward the Tempest/Granite area. The FTD plateau will not be the relief you are seeking from the switchbacks, as you continue to gain significant elevation as you inch closer to Granite. Parties that choose to do Granite in three or more days will camp along this first section of the plateau. Look for built windbreaks in a semi-protected natural dip in the plateau.

As you approach the Tempest mountain area, you will see a crest with a large cairn. The descent after this crest is the beginning of the Granite climbing approach. There are no comfortable camping locations past this point unless you want to snuggle with loose rock on a steep slope. Instead, there will be a large rock wind shelter area near the crest. This is your best location for camping the night before the summit as it provides the best launching point for the traverse to the Tempest/Granite saddle and to Granite Peak.

Note: If you or anyone in your party is not prepared to climb Granite, Tempest Mountain is highly attainable and walkable from this location. This non-technical peak is just 400 feet lower than Granite and will offer incredible views of the peak and surrounding wilderness. Some folks will camp lower than the crest; if you do, be sure to mark your location so you can easily find it again after your summit, and skip spending 1.5 hours wandering the homogeneous surface of the plateau looking for your gear (no, not speaking from experience, why would you ask?).

On your summit day, you will top the crest, and descend/traverse toward the saddle between Tempest and Granite. There is a faint trail marked by cairns through 3rd and 4th class terrain. At the saddle, you will cross the saddle ridge and continue to follow a faint climber’s trail toward the summit. Depending on conditions and snow, you can also forgo the trail to scramble the saddle ridge here—continuous 4th-class scrambling on blocky granite. The climber’s trail below the ridge and climbers left is much faster if open.

Continue on this trail until you can see the snow bridge, a narrow area before several 4th-class chimneys. Late season, this will be a loose, gravelly saddle. Take a minute here to plan your route across the snow bridge and through the chimney systems. You will pass the first rappel anchors as you navigate the chimneys toward a notch, staying left of the rock with an “X” feature, clearly visible before crossing the snow bridge. Once past the notch, you will downclimb a bit and be able to view the final summit face.

Start your final ascent near a large boulder with a horizontal crack scrambling up 4th class between two chimney features. You will see rappel stations on these pitches as well. Continue left along an exposed bouldery ledge and continue to a conspicuous keyhole feature near the top of the face. Climb LEFT of the keyhole to avoid 5th class moves, and scramble the last few blocky moves to the summit. Sign the register and lie on the summit block like the little sun lizard that you are (or cloud lizard, or snow lizard, or sleet lizard, depending on conditions). 

Descent: Put that thing down, flip it, and reverse it! Be sure to pay close attention (and look behind you) to notable features as you climb up to help speed up your descent. There are cairns marking several “paths,” and it’s easy to take a different way down. I would recommend a 60- or 70-meter rope to avoid multiple rappels on the face section. Be sure to inspect each anchor and either avoid it or add additional slings/rap rings if it looks unsafe/chewed up. If you are comfortable downclimbing these sections, this will be much faster than rappels. 

EDITORS NOTE: We mention it several times in this article, but it bears repeating here as well—this is a highly technical route that requires, at minimum, advanced scrambling skills, and is probably best suited to hikers with climbing, mountaineering, and off-trail navigational skills. You’ve been warned.

Permits: No permit needed.

Getting to Granite Peak via West Rosebud Trailhead

Nearest City: Red Lodge, Montana (43 miles)

The West Rosebud Trailhead is accessible by car, and you are able to park overnight or for several nights at the designated parking lot. Note as of 9/18/2022: Due to flooding in the area, the original trailhead access is closed until bridges can be restored. Parking is 0.65 miles before the trailhead, and access by foot is permitted.

When to hike Granite Peak via West Rosebud Trailhead

Mid to late summer is the best time to attempt this peak. While attempts have been made year-round, please consider your abilities as a mountaineer or alpinist if attempting to bag this peak in any other season. There is a small snow bridge that usually remains in until the end of the summer, so check current conditions to determine what gear you may need. Weather is always a factor on the exposed plateau and peak, so be prepared with sufficient rain gear and warm/dry layers. A wind layer is also recommended.

Granite Peak via West Rosebud Trailhead Terrain 

West Rosebud Trail: Maintained and well-marked trail starting at the power plant. Dirt and rocky trail through forest along the creek. 

Phantom Creek: Well-traveled trail, mostly level with dirt and gravel. 

Froze to Death Plateau: Mixed rock and vegetated tundra. Uneven, with no clear trail. 

Climber’s Trail to Summit: Relentless talus, some loose granite scrambling, and class 4 (possibly low 5th class) granite face to the summit. 

Logistics for Granite Peak via West Rosebud Trailhead

Resupply: No resupply is possible on this route. Only self-supported travel in this zone unless you’re friends with a helicopter pilot.

Camping and Permits: No permits are necessary. There are official campsites at Mystic Lake, then dispersed camping on the plateau, including built-up windbreaks. It is highly recommended to camp at the windbreaks right before cresting to the saddle of Tempest Peak and Granite Peak. This will give you a great launching point for your summit bid.

What Type of Land: Land acknowledgement: These recreation trails are on native Apsáalooke (Crow) lands. 

Custer Gallatin National Forest: West Rosebud Trail to Mystic Lake

Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness: Phantom Creek Trail, Froze to Death Plateau, and Granite Summit

Curious about the difference between wilderness area and national forest designations? Check out this article from Nature. 

Water: No water from the 4th switchback on Phantom Creek Trail to the FTD plateau.

Water from snowmelt consistently on FTD plateau, but always check local information if going late season.

Special Gear: The technicality of climbing Granite Peak depends on the conditions and the amount of experience as a hiker or mountaineer. In the early seasons, be sure to bring crampons and an ice axe, as the snow bridge will likely still be in. Snow travel skills are necessary. 

For all seasons, bring rain gear, layers, a helmet, and shoes with high-friction rubber (approach shoes recommended).

Consider bringing a rope, harness, lockers, belay device, prusik, extra webbing, and even a few pieces of protection. If you are an avid climber and mountaineer and are comfortable pulling (and downclimbing) lower 5th-class moves in highly exposed terrain, this gear may not be necessary. Consider the skills and comfort level of your whole crew before ditching extra gear.

Know Before You Go

• This route, while highly attainable, should not be underestimated. The approach is gnarly. The plateau is exposed, and afternoon storms are frequent.
•  Granite summit bids are the reason for multiple search and rescue calls each summer. Don’t be caught unprepared—this is not a walk-up. Be prepared to navigate on the plateau in any conditions. Bring a SPOT or InReach as an emergency backup. 
• There are cairns everywhere on the plateau and summit trails. DO NOT rely solely on cairns to navigate, as there are multiple trails. Be thoughtful in considering your route.
• This is grizzly bear and mountain goat country. Bring bear spray and supplies to hang a bear bag if camping low. Beware of mountain goats while camping on the plateau, as they like to lick the salt from urine. Make sure to urinate a safe distance from your campsite as they will be sure to pay you(r pee) a visit. 

Resources

• Granite Peak Summit Post page  for detailed climbing ascent beta and photos
• Beartooth Publishing: Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness Map
• Roscoe’s Grizzly Bar for a post-summit burger