By Alexandra Kereszti, 2020 High Sierra Trail Thru-Hiker
The High Sierra Trail is a 72-mile point-to-point backpacking route that traverses the Sierra Nevada west to east. The trail crosses the Great Western Divide over Kaweah Gap and culminates at Trail Crest Junction with the option to summit Mt. Whitney, the tallest point in the contiguous United States. There is over 15,000 feet of elevation gain and it can be hiked in 5-9 days.
Region: Pacific West (Sequoia National Park, California)
Length: 72 miles* (5-9 days)
*Does not include the 3.8 miles round trip from Trail Crest Junction to Mt. Whitney summit (~900 feet of gain)
Physical Difficulty: Difficult
- Cumulative elevation gain for 15,000+ feet
- Average elevation is high. There is sun exposure and it can be very hot
- Terrain can be rocky and uneven
Logistical Difficulty: Moderate
- Permit required
- Point-to-point trail: transportation to/from trailheads can be difficult to arrange
- No options for food resupply
Elevation (average): ~ 9,500 feet
Total Elevation Gain: ~ 15,000 feet
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Miles/Day | Days to Complete |
| 14.4 | 5 |
| 12 | 6 |
| 10.2 | 7 |
| 9 | 8 |
| 8 | 9 |
Hiking the High Sierra Trail
After I hiked the John Muir Trail, I never thought another route could rival its beauty.
I was wrong.
The High Sierra Trail is filled with sweeping views, striking alpine lakes, and beautiful valleys. I was astonished by how much the landscape changed in just 72 miles.
The traditional route is west to east, although you could reverse that direction for a different experience. I am partial to starting in Crescent Meadow and exiting at Whitney Portal because it gives you the opportunity to summit Mt. Whitney for an epic end to the trail.
Mt. Whitney is not technically a part of the High Sierra Trail, but I implore you to add it to your itinerary. At 14,505 feet Mt. Whitney is the highest point in the 48 contiguous United States. The summit is monumental and offers expansive views over rocky ridges as far as the eye can see. It’s well worth the 3.8-mile round trip detour from Trail Crest Junction. If you want the best experience, I urge you to get up there for sunrise. I promise you, it will be a memory that will last you a lifetime.
I wouldn’t recommend the High Sierra Trail for beginner backpackers. The amount of elevation gain and loss is physically demanding, and the added weight of a bear canister and long food carry can make your pack bulky and heavy. In addition, some of the route can be technical (river crossings, Class 1 scrambling in sections), which adds difficulty. If you have some backpacking experience and are looking to possibly do the John Muir Trail or Pacific Crest Trail in the future, this hike is perfect.
There are many alpine lakes on this trail, and I took advantage of EVERY swimming opportunity I could! Hamilton Lake was my favorite: I spent the entire day floating on my sleeping pad, swimming, reading, and eating snacks. I also thoroughly enjoyed taking a dip in the frigid waters at Guitar Lake (11,400 feet) after a long climb up in the hot sun.
This was my first time going solo and it was a really great trail to test it out on. It was popular enough where I camped near other parties some nights, but I also had a 24-hour stretch when I didn’t see another person. There were times when I was on the side of the trail during a long uphill, drenched in sweat, flies hanging around my ears, and chugging the last of my water … swearing at the universe and myself for choosing to do the trail solo. Then there were quiet moments: long stretches like the path along the Kern River where all I heard for hours was the sound of crashing water. I was the only camper at Moraine Lake and got to hear the birds, crickets, and other noises from the woods come alive as the sun set. As I climbed above Guitar Lake in the ascent to Mt. Whitney under the night sky, all I could hear was my heavy breathing and footsteps—feeling proud that I completed the High Sierra Trail on my own.
How to Get to the High Sierra Trail
Western Terminus: Crescent Meadow/High Sierra Trailhead
Closest City: Visalia, California (54) or Three Rivers, California (25)
Eastern Terminus: Whitney Portal
Closest City: Lone Pine, California (11)
The logistics of getting to and from the trailheads was by far the most challenging part of planning this hike, especially as a solo hiker.
The two trailheads are ~280 miles or 5.5 hours apart, so unless you have a VERY good friend who is willing to drop you off and/or pick you up, you will need to plan transportation in advance.
The easiest (and most expensive) option is to drive one car to the Crescent Meadow High Sierra Trailhead, hike west to east, and then book the East Side Sierra Shuttle to take you back from Whitney Portal to Crescent Meadow ($800 for up to 5 persons).
The nearest towns to the High Sierra Trailhead (western terminus) are Visalia (54 miles) and Three Rivers (25 miles). I mention both because even though Three Rivers is closer, it has less-affordable lodging options before you begin your hike. I stayed in Visalia for about half the price of what I could find in Three Rivers. There is not an Uber or Lyft presence in these towns (about 2 drivers in the whole town). I had to wait 30 minutes for a ride from the bus stop to my Airbnb in Visalia, and the next morning I walked the 1.8 miles back to take the bus from Visalia to Three Rivers.
Here are some options to get from Visalia to the High Sierra Trailhead:
- Take the Sequoia Shuttle (it was not operating when I visited but will resume operation in summer 2021)
- Once you’re in Sequoia National Park, you can use this link for planning how to get around the park
- Local drivers/companies in Visalia and Three Rivers (book these in advance!)
- Join the High Sierra Trail Facebook group and see if you can carpool or hitch a ride. I was able to find someone who lived in Three Rivers and worked in Sequoia National Park to give me a ride to the trailhead. This group is also a great resource for anything else you need to plan for the trail!
The nearest town to the Whitney Portal exit is Lone Pine (11 miles). There is no public transportation option to get from the trailhead exit to the town, so you have two options:
- Book the East Side Sierra Shuttle from Whitney Portal to Lone Pine
($80 first passenger, $25 each additional passenger) - Hitch a ride into town. Whitney Portal is a very popular trailhead and the parking lot is always FULL of day hikers, backpackers, and campers. Hitchhiking from this trailhead is very common and is considered safe. As a female solo hiker, I felt completely safe getting my first hitch ever!
I’ve been to Lone Pine at least 8 times at this point and it is by far one of my favorite small towns in the US. I highly recommend adding an extra day to your itinerary to explore the town. My favorite spots are the Alabama Hills Cafe, The Grill, and the Western Film History Museum.
To get out of Lone Pine, you will need to take the Eastern Sierra Transit (goes to Reno and Lancaster).
With ALL transportation options, make sure to call and book far in advance. This High Sierra Trail is popular and there are few options for getting to/from trailheads.
When to Hike the High Sierra Trail
The Sierra can stay snowy all year long, so it’s important to be aware of snowpack when planning your trip.
May/June: Early season can bring dangerous river crossings from peak snowmelt. Pay attention to Kern River and Kaweah River reports during this time. You can call the ranger station about a week before your departure at (559) 565-3341 to get more information on water levels.
July/August: Lower water levels, most snow should be gone. Expect high temps (80-90 F) and lots of mosquitoes.
September: Fewer bugs/lower temps. Weather can be variable and drop to below 20 F at night.
When hiking through high elevation terrain, you always need to be aware of afternoon thunderstorms. Check the Mountain Forecast in the days leading up to your trip. Try to tackle higher elevations/passes earlier in the day to avoid being in exposed terrain. Thunderstorms and lightning can happen quickly and unexpectedly.
High Sierra Trail Terrain
The High Sierra Trail was created in the 1920s to help park officials travel west to east. The trail is well-established and easy to follow, although I still recommend having both a paper map as well as downloaded GPX or Topo maps on your phone.
The trail is at high elevation most of the time (~9,500 feet), so expect rocky terrain. It crosses over the Great Western Divide at Kaweah Gap (10,869 feet) and Trail Crest Junction (13,600 feet).
There are some river crossings and lots of alpine lakes. I recommend bringing camp/water shoes and taking advantage of EVERY swimming opportunity. There’s nothing like taking a dip in the Sierra!
Logistics: Camping, Permits, and Water
Camping and Permits: A wilderness quota is in effect and a permit is required to hike the High Sierra Trail May 28 – September 18. Off-season permits are still required, but they are self-issued.
Sequoia & Kings Canyon has an online reservation system through Recreation.gov.
You can reserve up to six months in advance. Wilderness permits cost $15 each trip plus $5 per person within the quota season. You can read more information on the process here.
Water: Water is plentiful on this trail and you shouldn’t have any issues or long water carries. I recommend bringing two types of filtration since this trail is so popular and water can be contaminated. I used the Sawyer Squeeze and carried iodine tablets as a backup, although I didn’t use them.
Food: There is no resupply for the High Sierra Trail, so you will need to carry all your food from start to finish.
High Sierra Route Special Gear
Bear Canister: Although a bear canister is not technically required to do the High Sierra Trail, I HIGHLY recommend bringing one. If you plan to only camp at locations with food-storage boxes, then you can complete the trail without one. Use this link to see the full list of locations. However, you can’t really count on food-storage boxes being available or usable (could be broken or removed without a report). I also enjoyed being able to have flexibility in choosing my camping spots because I had a bear canister.
Bear Spray: Bear spray is NOT ALLOWED in Sequoia National Park and is illegal to possess. This land is home to hundreds of black bears, but no grizzly bears. Do not bring bear spray or other firearms/weapons.
Trekking Poles: I used to hate trekking poles until I started hiking in the Sierra. With lots of elevation gain and loss, trekking poles can be very helpful.
Sun Protection: The trail is very exposed and you will need protection. Strong SPF sunscreen. I also recommend a UPF long-sleeve shirt with a hood like this, as well as a hat or hiking umbrella.
Wag Bag: From Crabtree Meadow -> Whitney Portal, a wag bag (or other human waste carry-out method) is required. Yes, that’s right. You need to poop into a bag and carry it with you until you exit the trail at Whitney Portal. The ecosystem is extremely fragile in that area and human waste/other trash is very detrimental.
Know Before You Go
Drastic changes in weather can occur on the High Sierra Trail. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in summer months and you do not want to be at high elevation or exposed terrain when one hits.
Once you descend from Moraine Lake until you get to Junction Meadow, be very aware of rattlesnakes along the Kern River. Right before I reached the Kern River and passed the “RattleSnake Canyon” sign I heard a LOUD rattle and jumped back to see a fully grown rattlesnake coiled up, ready to strike right off trail.
Black bears and mountain lions/cougars are common. Bear spray is illegal to use. Be aware of your surroundings.
The trail is at high elevation. If you’re coming from sea level (or even from a location at higher elevation) you may experience altitude sickness. Consider bringing altitude sickness medication like Diamox or anti-inflammatory drugs like Aleve/ibuprofen to alleviate symptoms.
There is no cell service on the trail. Lots of hikers carry a Garmin InReach or Spot device.
High Sierra Route Additional Resources
High Sierra Trail Facebook Group
Alex is a photographer and filmmaker based out of Salt Lake City, Utah. She loves all type 2 fun, breaking a sweat, and getting dirty doing it! She always has a camera in hand and enjoys capturing that feeling of accomplishment and relief after reaching a summit after a long day of climbing. To see more, follow her on Instagram.