by Caleb Meyer, Uinta Highline Trail thru-hiker
The Uinta Highline Trail is a 104-mile high-elevation route with a high degree of physical difficulty but moderately easy logistics. It’s best hiked in the late summer/early fall, and can be accomplished in 5-10 days.
Region: Mountain West (Uinta Range, Utah)
Distance: 104 miles (5-10 days)
Physical Difficulty: Difficult
- Much of the trail is above 11,000 feet, with several passes over 12,000 feet
- Weather in the Uinta is frequently stormy during the summer hiking window
- Some sections require attention to route finding
Logistical Difficulty: Moderate
- Both termini, as well as those of alternates, are easily accessible though a shuttle is required for this point-to-point trail (3.5 hours, one-way)
- No permits are required for hiking in the Ashley or Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forests through the Uinta, though parking at the Highline Trailhead (western terminus) requires a self-serve parking permit ($12/7 days) or an America the Beautiful Federal Lands Pass must be displayed
- Hikers must be conscious of changing weather and high alpine conditions
Season: Summer, early Fall
Average Elevation: 10,700 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 19,800 feet
Hiking the Uinta Highline Trail
The Uinta Highline is a 104-mile backpacking trail following the crest of the Uinta Range in Northeastern Utah from McKee Draw, off Highway 191 below Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area, west to the Mirror Lakes Highway. It takes you through Utah’s most scenic mountain terrain and highest peaks. Most of the trail is above treeline, which provides sweeping views and a consistent sense of awe as hikers travel over rocky passes, descend into lush basins, and glide by crystal blue alpine lakes. It will appeal to backpackers not looking for a serious time commitment, but still seeking solitude, big views, and rugged adventure, much of it off the beaten path.
Starting from the eastern terminus at McKee Draw off Highway 191, hikers will experience anticipation for the vistas to come as much of the first 25 miles is densely forested and the trail is faint in some areas, criss-crossed with cattle tracks. Though generally well marked with cairns and occasional signage, hikers should pay close attention to navigation throughout this trail. The Uinta Highline becomes much more defined and easy to follow as it moves westbound. After 25 miles, hikers reach the Leidy Peak Trailhead and the beginning of the High Uinta (Alternate #1 would start hikers here for an ~80 mile trip, though with a longer shuttle).
From there, the character of the trail changes from forest to high alpine. Massive peaks and ridges surround hikers as they move over eight passes over 11,000 feet that separate vast meadows, basins, and valleys carved by retreating glaciers. At mile 38, hikers reach Chepeta Dam Trailhead, which hikers could consider as Alternate #2. This alternate would leave a ~66-mile trip through the majority of the truly stunning terrain for hikers on a time crunch. From the trail’s high point at Anderson Pass (12,700 feet), it’s a quick 0.7-mile detour to King’s Peak, Utah’s highest point at 13,528 feet (Class 3 scramble).
No permits are required for hiking the Uinta Highline Trail. To park at the western terminus at the Highline Trailhead, a self-serve parking permit is required ($12/7 days) or vehicles must display a valid America the Beautiful Federal Lands Pass.
How to Get to the Uinta Highline Trail
Nearest City: Salt Lake City, Utah (78 miles from western terminus, 215 miles from eastern terminus). Closest towns to the termini are Vernal (eastern) and Kamas (western).
Western Terminus: Highline Trailhead near Hayden Pass
Eastern Terminus: McKee Draw
From Salt Lake City, it’s 215 driving miles to the eastern terminus of the Uinta Highline at McKee Draw, off Highway 191 between Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area and Vernal, Utah, and 78 miles to the western terminus at the Highline Trailhead along Mirror Lakes Highway. The shuttle between the trailheads is 3.5 hours each way.
Shuttle: The simplest way to hike the Uinta Highline is to park a vehicle on either end and add half a day onto your itinerary for the shuttle. For locals in the Mountain West, this may involve bribing Salt Lake City friends with gas money and pizza. For those traveling to hike the Uinta Highline, there are shuttle services on the internet that can assist for a fee. The most reputable of these is Mountain Trails Transport (https://mountaintrailstransport.com/).
Flying: Flying is an option into both Salt Lake City International Airport and Vernal Regional Airport (more expensive). A Greyhound bus travels daily between Salt Lake City and Denver, stopping in Vernal once per day, which may ease planning. From Vernal, hikers without ground transportation would need to hitchhike north on Highway 191 to McKee Draw (technically illegal in Utah, though straightforward in these areas). Hitchhiking to and from the western trailhead is even more straightforward and only requires catching a ride for the 29 miles between Kamas and the terminus. Kamas is connected by (free) bus to Park City and from there to Salt Lake City.
When to Hike the Uinta Highline Trail
In an average snow year, the Uinta Highline is best hiked from mid-July to mid-September. Prior to mid-July, additional precautions may be necessary to account for lingering snowpack. After mid-September, winter could arrive any moment in the High Uinta. These dates are a good rule of thumb, but different years bring different snowpacks and hikers more comfortable with an ice axe may prefer hitting the trail sooner. July hikes will likely bring lingering snow, mosquito pressure, muddy trails, and daily thunderstorms. August hikes will lessen snow and mosquito pressure, but the storms remain. September brings far fewer thunderstorms, no bugs, but early season snow is always possible. Of additional note to out-of-season traversing plans, the Mirror Lakes Highway (western terminus) is closed from November to May each year.
Uinta Highline Trail Terrain
Much of the Uinta Highline is above treeline and over 11,000 feet. Traveling westbound, the first 25 miles are mostly forested and dotted with meadows that are heavily grazed by cattle. The trail after passing Leidy Peak changes to high alpine. It travels over passes, crossing wide basins, valleys, and meadows between high points. Lower basins, like the one below Dead Horse Pass, are forested, whereas higher elevation basins, like Painter Basin, largely remain above treeline. The trail east of Leidy Peak is much fainter and requires attention to navigation while crossing heavily grazed meadows. Some of the passes are rocky, but the western three-quarters of the trail are mostly well-defined singletrack.
Logistics: Land Designation, Water, Special Gear, Permits
Land Designation: The Uinta Highline travels through the Ashley and Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forests with the western part of the trail contained within the High Uintas Wilderness. The U.S. Forest Service manages land under the Multiple Use mandate that allows activities like grazing and timber harvesting simultaneously with recreation. These activities are most pronounced on the Uinta Highline as it travels through the Ashley National Forest. After crossing into the High Uintas Wilderness, sheep grazing remains and it is a near certainty that hikers will encounter flocks of sheep. Designated wilderness is managed for a primitive and unconfined type of recreation and emphasizes solitude, which abounds on the UHT. Hikers should be respectful of one another and of the sensitive high-alpine terrain and follow Leave No Trace practice in activities such as campsite selection (camping only in already established campsites), human waste disposal (catholes at least 6 inches deep, pack out toilet paper, and consider portable waste containment bags though they are not a requirement), and respect for wildlife (the Uinta Range is black bear and moose territory and caution should be exercised in travel and food storage). Campfires are also prohibited in much of the alpine terrain of the UHT. If you plan on having fires, ensure you’re in a non-restricted area. A full list of wilderness regulations regarding fires, bear safety, group size, and other concerns can be found here.
Water: Water is plentiful over much of the trail as it passes by numerous lakes and creeks. However, do not expect water east of Leidy Peak, especially later in the season (first 25 miles, traveling westbound). West of Leidy Peak, it’s no concern. With the exception of the high passes, the UHT is heavily grazed by cattle and sheep so all water should be appropriately treated.
Special Gear: Reliable rain gear is essential on the UHT as it receives daily thunderstorms over much of the summer hiking season. Early season hikers should consider gear such as microspikes and an ice axe, but unless it’s a particularly heavy snow year, these items shouldn’t be necessary after mid-July. If you’re on the fence about bringing this gear, focus your snow-level inquiry on the north side of Dead Horse Pass (a call to the Heber-Kamas Ranger District at 435-783-4338 should sort this out). Hikers should prepare for variable weather and temperature as well as have a firm knowledge of the route, and carry backup forms of navigation. Sun protection is essential on the UHT given its high average elevation. With a valid Utah fishing license, hikers may also want to consider bringing a fishing pole as the High Uinta has notoriously good fishing.
Permits: No permits are required for hiking the Uinta Highline Trail. To park at the western terminus at the Highline Trailhead, a self-serve parking permit is required ($12/7 days) or vehicles must display a valid America the Beautiful Federal Lands Pass.
Know Before You Go
Keep an eye on the U.S. Forest Service announcements about wildfires in the area. Parts of the UHT were closed in late-August and September 2020 due to the active fire season. As with any high alpine travel, consideration of snow level and condition and abnormal weather patterns is essential. Ensure you’re geared up for snow and thunderstorms at any time of year and have well-communicated travel plans as cell service is nonexistent on the UHT (though there is Verizon signal on the summit of King’s Peak). Also be prepared for faint trail navigation, especially in the eastern section of the trail as it crosses meadows and open areas. Be aware of wildlife while hiking and camping as the Uinta Highline travels through black bear and moose territory.
Resources
Information on Mirror Lakes Highway Recreation Passes
Learn about wilderness designation
Information on bus travel:
https://www.parkcity.org/departments/transit-bus/routes-schedules
https://www.rideuta.com/Rider-Tools/Schedules-and-Maps/902-PC-SLC-Connect
https://www.greyhound.com/en-us/bus-from-salt-lake-city-to-vernal
Caleb Meyer (he/him) is a hiker and conservation social science researcher based in Northern Utah. In addition to countless hikes, backpacking trips, and other generous times in the outdoors, Caleb hiked the Pacific Crest Trail in 2019. In “the real world,” Caleb is a graduate researcher in the Institute of Outdoor Recreation and Tourism at Utah State University studying backcountry recreation, and works with the U.S. Forest Service on research related to National Scenic Trails. Prior to these roles, he worked in such places as Grand Teton National Park, Bears Ears National Monument, and Death Valley National Park. To follow adventures in backpacking and research, follow Caleb on Instagram: @topohikes. For research-specific questions, email at caleb.meyer@usu.edu.