Caleb Meyer hiked has hiked the Bear River Range Traverse several times. He hiked this particular configuration for the first time in September 2020.
The Bear River Range Traverse is a challenging point-to-point backpacking route in Northern Utah that crosses the heart of the Mount Naomi Wilderness. It stitches together multiple on-trail and off-trail segments in the Cache National Forest and can be hiked in 2-4 days.
Region: Mountain West (Cache National Forest, Utah)
Length: 44 miles (2-4 days)
Physical Difficulty: Difficult
- This trail features significant elevation gain and loss, including scrambling to peaks near 10,000 feet
- Occasional sections are off-trail or feature faint trails
- Lack of water is a concern in the Bear River Range, requiring attention to the distance between sources
Logistical Difficulty: Moderate
- Route options exist in the area, but exploring the Bear River Range as a multi-day adventure generally requires a car shuttle between trailheads
- Planning is required around water sources, especially on the southern section of the route
Season: Summer and fall
Average Elevation: ~8,000 feet
Total Elevation Gain: 16,500 feet
Hiking the Bear River Range Traverse
The Bear River Range Traverse is a 44-mile backpacking trail roughly following the crest of the Bear River Range through the Mount Naomi Wilderness. The Bear River Range is a subrange of the Wasatch in Northern Utah and Southern Idaho and features steep limestone peaks, mountain lakes, and sweeping drainages filled with pine and aspen forests. Much of the trail is above treeline and several major summits in the range are directly along the route, with others nearby as scrambly side trips. The range is home to several endemic species and Great Basin ecological diversity. This route will appeal to backpackers looking for a long weekend trip with big views and a sense of solitude along many of its segments, especially during late season.
This route starts at the Spring Hollow Campground off Highway 89 in Logan Canyon. The route overlaps with the popular Crimson Trail, which highlights the canyon’s limestone walls. After several miles, the route descends and crosses the highway before it climbs to the main ridge and wilderness boundary. From there, hikers follow the steep ridgetop trail and summit Beirdneau Peak, entering the heart of the Mount Naomi Wilderness. Roughly following the ridge, scrambly side trails lead to Mounts Jardine and Elmer, less than 2 trail miles apart. The first reliable water isn’t until Tony Grove Lake, where a campground and trailhead access the wilderness area. From Tony Grove, it’s less than three miles to Naomi Peak, the range’s highest point at 9,979 feet. The most technical side trip on the route is to Mount Magog, a quick Class 3 summit prior to Naomi Peak (you can also just stay on the trail to Naomi). A large sinkhole sits on the ridge between the two peaks, one of numerous sinkholes and caves in the porous limestone of the Bear River Range.
From Naomi Peak, the trail switches back down the west face of the range into High Creek Canyon, where a reliable stream flows down the drainage from picturesque High Creek Lake. Descending High Creek Canyon leads to another trailhead, and possible exit point via a car shuttle. This route climbs back up to the ridge via the North Fork of High Creek and crosses the Idaho border briefly at the top of the climb. The next section follows an undulating ridge and requires off-trail travel to the remote and seldom-visited Doubletop Mountain. The trail’s final descent rolls down Steam Mill drainage, where reliable water is found most of the year. The route ends at the Franklin Basin Trailhead, just down Logan Canyon from Beaver Mountain Ski Resort.
Getting to the Bear River Range Traverse
Nearest City: Logan, Utah (7 miles from Spring Hollow Campground, 28 miles from Franklin Basin Road)
Southern Terminus: Spring Hollow Campground
Northern Terminus: Franklin Basin Road
Logan sits 80 miles north of Salt Lake City, Utah, at the base of the Bear River Range. It’s 1 hour and 15 minutes from Salt Lake International Airport to Logan via I-15 North and Highway 89/91. Follow Highway 89 into Logan Canyon to access the trailhead termini described above. Numerous other entry and exit points to the area sit conveniently on or near Highway 89 or Highway 91 toward the Idaho border.
Shuttle: The simplest way to hike the Bear River Range Traverse is using a car shuttle between the trailheads. Reaching out to the local outdoor community in Logan is a good option if you don’t have two vehicles (also see: https://hitchwiki.org/en/Utah).
When to Hike the Bear River Range Traverse
This route is best hiked from June to October. Snow in the Mount Naomi Wilderness usually melts out by June and doesn’t return with consistency until November or December (October storms are fairly common, but are generally stand-alone events). July-September can see temperatures near 100 degrees and exposed climbs and ridge walks can bring heat-related challenges. June brings mosquitoes, but the aridity of the range keeps the numbers below considerable levels. Expect cold nights if attempting the route late in the season.
Bear River Range Traverse Terrain
Much of the Bear River Range Traverse is above treeline and exposed to the Utah sun. The route is generally well-defined. Sections like Beirdneau Ridge, the scramble to Mount Magog, and the Doubletop Ridge feature off or faint trail travel or Class 3 scrambling. Side trips to summit Mount Jardine or Mount Elmer also require scrambling. This route stitches together a number of trails in the Mount Naomi Wilderness; maps or GPS are recommended to ensure correct trails are taken at junctions. Much of the existing signage in the area is aging.
Logistics: Land Designation, Water, Special Gear
Land Designation: The Bear River Range Traverse travels through the Cache National Forest and the Mount Naomi Wilderness. These areas are managed out of the Logan Ranger District, whose offices are at the mouth of Logan Canyon and where hikers can find more information about current conditions. Designated wilderness management emphasizes providing outstanding opportunities for solitude or a primitive and unconfined type of recreation. These qualities abound along this route. Hikers should be respectful of one another and of the sensitive natural resources in the range. Following Leave No Trace practices in campsite selection, wildlife encounters (the range is home to black bear, moose, marmots, pika, deer, elk, and rattlesnakes) and human waste disposal (catholes at least 6 inches deep, pack out toilet paper) is essential. Proper food storage and caution should be exercised. Pit toilets are available at Tony Grove Campground, High Creek Trailhead, and Franklin Basin Trailhead. No permits are required to hike in the Bear Rivers. Tony Grove Campground is a fee area, though the route described above merely passes through it.
Water: Water is not plentiful in the Bear River Range, but can be reliably found at Tony Grove Lake, High Creek Lake, flowing in High Creek Canyon, and along the Steam Mill drainage. The Logan River flows near the beginning of the route if you need to top off before hitting the trail. Treating water in the area is essential. Tony Grove Lake sits 22 miles into the route described here. Water may be found at Cottonwood Spring (17 miles into the route), but relying on this source without consulting the U.S. Forest Service is not recommended. The author of this guide has spent countless hours on desert trails in the Southwest, including the arid Southern California section of the Pacific Crest Trail. The southern section of this route is the only place the author has ever experienced dehydration while temperatures were in the high 90s. Following that experience, the author recommends 6 liters of water to reach Tony Grove Lake from the route start depending on itinerary and prior hydration (more water is recommended if dry camping on this section).
Special Gear: Sunscreen, UPF clothing, and electrolytes are highly recommended. Snow gear, such as an ice axe, may be required in early season travel. Consult the U.S. Forest Service Logan Ranger District for current conditions.
Know Before You Go
Keep an eye on information from the U.S. Forest Service regarding closures and water availability. Fires are rare in the Bear River Range, but not unheard of. As with any alpine travel, consideration of snow levels and conditions are essential. The Bear River Range is not well-traveled in many areas, so make sure your plans are well-communicated with someone on the outside.
There is cell coverage on the summits overlooking Cache Valley (the author uses Verizon, but this is universal due to the size of the greater Logan population center). These locations include Naomi Peak, Doubletop Mountain, Mount Magog, and Beirdneau Peak.
Be prepared for faint trail navigation and off-trail travel in addition to Class 3 scrambling to reach locations like Mount Jardine, Mount Elmer, and Mount Magog. Be aware of wildlife while hiking as the Bear River Range Traverse travels through bear, moose, and rattlesnake habitat.
Due to remote sections, off-trail travel, a large water carry, and large amounts of elevation gain and loss, this route is not recommended for beginner backpackers.
Resources
Learn about wilderness designation
Regional bus travel (including Logan City and Salt Lake International Airport)
Caleb Meyer (he/him) is a hiker and conservation social science researcher based in Utah. In addition to countless hikes, backpacking trips and other generous times in the outdoors, Caleb hiked the Pacific Crest Trail in 2019 and the Colorado Trail in 2021. Outside of long-distance hiking, Caleb spends his time running, skiing, and working in public land management. Follow along on Instagram: @topohikes