Austin Hager thru-hiked the Great Divide Trail in 2021
The Great Divide Trail is a 1,123km (697-mile) Canadian continuation of the Continental Divide Trail. It starts at the U.S.-Canada border at Waterton Lakes National Park and traverses the Canadian Rockies before ending at Kakwa Provincial Park, and typically takes around 50 days.
Region: Mountain West, International (Canadian Rockies)
Distance: 697 miles (42-60 days)
Physical Difficulty: Difficult
- Large amounts of elevation change
- Harsh, unpredictable weather
- Off-trail travel, river crossings, areas with little trail maintenance
Logistical Difficulty: Difficult
- Multiple permits required
- Long sections with few resupplies
- Some sections very remote
- Phone coverage on less than 10% of trail
Season: Summer
Total Elevation Gain: ~138,000 feet
Hiking the Great Divide Trail
The Great Divide Trail packs in some of the most prestigious, remote, and beautiful hikes in Canada into one package. The Great Divide Trail Association calls it the “wildest thru-hike,” and it’s not far off. The trail is broken up into seven sections, described below.
Section A: Waterton Monument to Coleman, Alberta
There is little warm-up on this trail. Right from day one there are substantial climbs up to alpine ridges and descents to crystal-blue lakes. The difficulty is increased as a massive portion of Waterton Lakes National Park was burned in a fire during the summer of 2017. Hiking through the burn can ramp up the temperature. On around day three or four, one of the hardest climbs of the entire trail begins as you ascend La Coulette Ridge, an off-trail climb up several peaks. The combination of over 5,000 feet of gain and off-trail scree travel means most people will only go 10-15 miles this day. After the ridge you will stay at much lower elevations for the rest of the section and most of the notable climbs will be out of the way.
I recommend taking a zero in Coleman. Blairmore is a short way down the highway but doesn’t attract nearly the same amount of hikers. Check out Safe Haven BnB and the Paddock Inn; both are aware of GDT hikers and will usually have a special deal. If you need to shop, you will need to head to Blairmore, but it is a quick hitch or inexpensive cab
Top Alternate Pick: Barnaby Ridge is a continuation of La Coulette Ridge that continues traversing at ridge crest for several more miles. There is no water unless you drop down to Grizzly Lake so plan accordingly. This alternate will normally add a full day, is exceptionally difficult, and does require some scrambling.
Section B: Coleman, Alberta, to Boulton Creek, Alberta
This section has recently undergone a massive trail building campaign and has been rerouted to avoid a substantial road walk down a logging road. Starting out the section is a short walk down a dirt road before peeling off onto the High Rock Trail, which will be officially open for the summer of 2022. From here you climb up to the beautiful Window Mountain Lake and then along huge a rock wall for several miles. There are no camping reservations needed for Section B, which makes it very easy to plan. There is a lot of hiking in meadows and the flowers can be exceptional at the beginning of July. Section B also features Tornado Pass, one of the more precarious climbs with the final ascent around 30% grade up scree. Section B ends in around 20 miles of road walking, but it’s a dirt road that doesn’t see a ton of traffic. You can usually get a few bars of service here.
The only option for a zero is at the Boulton Creek car campground. Choosing a powered site is key, otherwise you will spend your entire zero charging all your devices while sitting outside the camp store. There is no internet or phone service at the campground.
Section C: Boulton Creek, Alberta, to Field, British Columbia
This section is essentially most of Canada’s world-renowned trails packed into one section. The Rockwall Trail, Mount Assiniboine, Healy/Ball Pass, Egypt Lake … all of these trails are bucket-list hikes, which means reservations are extremely hard to get for certain campsites, and all sites through here need to be booked ahead. This is the busiest section of the entire trail, but most hikers are unaware of the Great Divide Trail. Some people break up this section by taking a zero in Banff, which adds a bit of distance, so plan accordingly. This section has some of the most spectacular, sweeping alpine views and the trail is in great condition. It feels easier than others due to the exceptional trail condition, particularly in contrast to some of the later sections with river crossings and bushwhacking.
Many people will choose to zero in the town of Lake Louise, a short hitch from the town of Field where Section D starts. There is a great hostel in Lake Louise, and they have the cheapest food and beer in town.
Top Alternate Pick: Northover Ridge. From the outset of the section you will head up Northover Ridge, which is the true Continental Divide. This typically adds a full day but has some of the best views on the entire trail.
Section D: Field, British Columbia, to Saskatchewan Crossing, Alberta
Starting off Section D you have a choice between taking the original trail and the Kiwetinok Alternate. The original trail is around 20 miles of overgrown roads, and I’ve heard it can be very mentally challenging and a slow go. The Kiwetinok Alternate starts on the Iceline Trail. I took this because I knew how beautiful the Iceline Trail is, but this also involves booking a hard-to-get site at Little Yoho. Some people will hike all the way over the Kiwetinok Pass, but this is an exceptionally long day with over 6,000 feet of gain. After the Kiwetinok Alternate rejoins the official trail, it almost exclusively follows the valley and river floodplain. After fording the Saskatchewan River more times than you can count, you will be near the end of the section. Large portions of this section are on the floodplain so expect wet feet and be careful with the crossings as the water is cold and certain areas are deep. Big miles are easy on this section, and there isn’t a lot of elevation gain with exception of the Kiwetinok Alternate.
Saskatchewan Crossing Resort is the only option for accommodation and resupply at the end of this section. The resort does not have cell service and the internet sometimes works, but only to check email. The resort will hold a resupply box for a fee, but will waive it if you stay the night. It is expensive but most hikers will zero here and play endless Ping-Pong in the game room. The resort store has a decent selection of food, but it is insanely expensive; a fuel can costs nearly $20.
Top Alternate Pick: Kiwetinok. If you want to see glaciers, this is the trail for you. From here you will ascend over a pass and descend through a large boulder field. There is a very steep climb and then another bushwhacking descent. The alternate is relatively new, but the trail is being broken in and it is very well flagged.
Additionally, I recommend the Collie Creek alternate. It shaves off a handful of logging road miles but does involve a river crossing. The blueberries can be great on this alternate.
Section E: Saskatchewan Crossing, Alberta, to Jasper, Alberta
This is another great section for anyone looking for a shorter hike and who doesn’t want to deal with campsite reservations. The hike heads steeply up the Owen Creek drainage and then leaves you with long alpine travel and sporadic trail.
These are some of the biggest views on the biggest terrain of the trail. The route-finding is easy and can be good practice if you are new to off-trail hiking. You will hit the official high point at mile 2,725 on the ironically named Unnamed Pass. You can continue on this section without reservations (but with an Alberta Public Lands Camping Pass) all the way Cataract Pass. After descending Cataract Pass you will be on the Brazeau Loop, a popular multiday hike.
The trail is in great shape and the campsites are nice, but you will need to make reservations. From here you will travel through the Maligne Valley and toward the aquamarine Maligne Lake. Only one party is allowed to travel through the valley per day due to the caribou habitat. Link up with other hikers on the Facebook page ahead of time to coordinate the permit. Arriving at Maligne Lake means there is only about 30 miles left before entering the wonderful town of Jasper, Alberta.
This is on the Skyline Trail, the most popular multiday trail in the park. Again, reservations come at a premium, but some people will hike the entire Skyline Trail in a day. It is long but isn’t exceptionally difficult, as the trail is probably the most manicured section of the entire Great Divide Trail. Afterward there is a bit of a walk through the town trails before arriving in town. Alternatively, you can cab into town but you will be missing some very beautiful lakes and great swimming spots.
Jasper is the biggest town of the entire trail and has several gear stores, restaurants, and bars. There are two hostels in town, and they will both hold resupply boxes. You can easily resupply from one of the three grocery stores here if you don’t want to mail a box.
Top Alternate Pick: From the Unnamed Pass and high point, head up the east ridge a few hundred feet for one of the best views you will probably ever see.
Six Passes Alternate: Although closed for 2022, this alternate will hopefully reopen in the future. Rather than descending through the Maligne Valley the trail goes up and over six remote passes, and is entirely off-trail with route finding. It is very difficult and requires good navigation and route-finding skills, as well as confidence in traveling without cairns or flagging. Only one party has been allowed to pass through per day, so the impact has been minimal through this area.
Sections F & G: Jasper, Alberta, to Kakwa Lake, British Columbia
The northernmost sections of the Great Divide Trail combine everything you have already experienced but now it’s more remote and more difficult. On my 2021 hike we only saw two other parties over the course of 11 days.
Until at least 2025, Section F and Section G will need to be linked together. The Berg Lake Trail is a very popular weekend trip and is the delimiter between the two sections. This trail provided access to the highway but was damaged due to extreme flooding. These two sections are typically done in 10-14 days. Leaving Jasper, many people will hitch or cab to avoid a 20-mile road walk. From here you will start heading toward the North Boundary Trail. Section F is relatively flat compared to other sections but can be slow due to mud and deadfall. This is also the first time you will have sizable river crossings that go over the knees and can be quite swift.
Transitioning into Section G means more river crossings, and even more remote terrain. There will be long meadow walks with sporadic blazes, meaning a lot of it will be choose your own adventure. There are some notable climbs toward the end of the section, until you eventually reach the Jackpine Valley. Until 2021 the Jackpine Valley was one of the most infamous and slowest parts of the trail, with a long bushwhack typically lasting over a day. Thankfully the GDTA has done substantial trail building here and hikers will maintain their sanity. Eventually, you will end at a beautiful backcountry hut at Kakwa Lake. From here it is about 18 miles to the trailhead. From the trailhead it is several hours via logging road to the highway, you will need high-clearance 4×4 to get here. If you need a ride, you can pre-arrange a pickup with Robson Valley Adventures.
Great Divide Trail Permits
Permits are one of the most challenging aspects of planning a GDT hike. There is no thru-hiker permit; you must book every site like a normal weekend hiker. The trail passes through Banff, Kootenay, Yoho, Jasper, and Waterton national parks; Peter Lougheed, Mount Assiniboine and Mount Robson provincial parks; and some public lands. All of these parks require permits and they are all booked separately on different days.
Each year the reservation days change. In 2022 the national parks reservations were between January 28 and February 2. Peter Lougheed releases permits 90 days in advance, Mount Assiniboine releases permits 60 days in advance, and Mount Robson is closed until 2025. However, you can still hike the Great Divide Trail without camping within Mount Robson Provincial Park.
Booking these permits is the same process for everyone wanting a backcountry reservation, so they are in extremely high demand. Most sites will be booked for the entire summer by midday of the reservation day. If you want to hike the GDT it is essential to be available these days, and ideally plan your entire day around these reservations.
The Parks Canada reservations are made online, but they can also be made over the phone. On reservation day calling will typically go to voicemail, but they will call you back in the order they receive the messages. Always leave a phone message; it can be drastically faster than using the online portal.
Plan out a flexible itinerary if you can’t get your first choice of campsite. Section C of the trail is the most competitive so many people will start here and plan the rest of the hike around these reservations. Another high-profile section is the northern part of Section E on the Brazeau Loop and the Skyline Trail in Jasper National Park.
The highest profile site is Floe Lake in Kootenay National Park, which is part of the Rockwall Trail. Another option is staying at Wolverine Pass, which is just outside the park boundary, so it doesn’t require a reservation. There are no facilities, however, and it does include another 2,500 feet of gain.
As mentioned previously, the Skyline Trail is very competitive. Curator campground seems to be the busiest, but choosing Watchtower campground is a good alternative and is only slightly off trail. Lastly, only one party per day is allowed to go through the Maligne Valley, just south of the Skyline Trail. These permits should be made over the phone with the Jasper Backcountry Office at 1-877-737-3783.
Online, Parks Canada requires a reservation Access Point, which is basically a trailhead, but it can get confusing on a thru-hike. This is where planning is necessary. When creating your itinerary, you will need to reference the Parks Canada reservation page ahead of time to see the associated trailheads for each campsite. As you will be traversing multiple parks, several of these sections will need to be booked as independent trips.
Another speed bump is dealing with the dreaded daylight hours error that the online reservation system will trigger. Essentially, the Parks Canada system doesn’t believe you can start at your chosen Access Point and make it to the campground you are trying to reserve. Any distances beyond 19 miles (~30km) will typically trigger this. There are two ways to avoid this: the best option is to chat with someone on the phone by calling the park directly. Otherwise, choose a different Access Point that is closer to the campsite you are trying to book; the Access Point doesn’t really need to be the trailhead you are actually starting from.
If you have multiple days of the daylight hours error, you will need to book each night as a standalone reservation. In other words, choose your Access Point and one campsite, then add to cart. Then for your next night choose another Access Point and then the next campsite. You will incur a reservation fee for each of these even though you are trying to link together a trip. In the past, Parks Canada has refunded these fees if you can show you are on one sequential trip.
Reservations for the provincial parks are much more straightforward as you will typically only be within the park for a night or two, but they can be just as competitive. Additionally, if you choose to take a zero day at the end of Section B, you will be within Peter Lougheed Provincial Park and will need to book a car camping site.
If you aren’t hiking the full trail and don’t want to battle for reservations, there are still plenty of sections to hike. Section A only requires a few reservations, and they are easy to come by. Section B doesn’t require any reservations at all. Section D can be done without reservations but having one of the first night will make it easier on the Kiwetinok Alternate. The first half of Section E can be done without any reservations. Section F and Section G also require very few reservations and are easy to reserve.
With the exception of the Alberta Public Lands Camping Pass and a Parks Canada Discovery Pass, access is free along the entire trail and you only need to pay for campsite reservations.
A Parks Canada Discovery Pass is required for access to national parks, and while most people won’t necessarily have the pass with them it’s a good idea to have a picture of it on your phone. They can be purchased here.
Remote parts of Sections B, E and G will require an Alberta Public Lands Camping Pass. These are $30 and can be booked here.
How to get to the Great Divide Trail
Nearest City: Calgary, Alberta (169 miles)
Trailhead / Terminus 1: Waterton Lakes National Park. Map it here
Trailhead / Terminus 2: Kakwa Lake Provincial Park. Map it here
The Southern Terminus of the Great Divide Trail is relatively easy to access. It’s in the town of Waterton and accessible by any vehicle. From the Calgary Airport it takes about three hours, but note that you can’t leave a vehicle in Waterton unless you are doing a short section and returning in a few days.
There are a few options of getting to Waterton for hikers flying in from Calgary. First, is the Airport Shuttle Express, which goes from the airport directly to Waterton National Park. Secondly, is Mountain Man Mikes, a local shuttle that can take you from Calgary to Pincher Creek, Alberta. From Pincher Creek you can take a cab to Waterton National Park for around $100.
The Northern Terminus of the Great Divide Trail is extremely remote, which means some hikers end their hike in Jasper, Alberta, rather than the terminus in Kakwa Provincial Park. From Jasper you can find multiple shuttles to Edmonton or Calgary, where you can access international airports.
The actual terminus trailhead in Kakwa Provincial Park is 46 miles down a very rough logging road. High clearance and 4×4 are required. Additionally, the trail is very overgrown. You will scratch your vehicle multiple times if attempting to drive to the trailhead. It is also a very slow drive; in 2021 it took a lifted pickup over three hours to access the trailhead. The turn off the highway is on a very remote section of Highway 16, near the town of McBride. From there, the closest city is Prince George, British Columbia, about two hours away.
Robson Valley Adventures is a local hunting outfitter in the area and has picked up hikers in the past. They do charge a few hundred dollars and availability is limited. They can be reached via Facebook here. They can also drive you to Prince George, British Columbia, or Jasper, Alberta.
When to Hike the Great Divide Trail
The hiking season on the Great Divide Trail is very short. Most people start at the end of June or beginning of July and are off trail by mid-September. The average start date is July 1, and with a 50-day itinerary most people finish in mid-August. Starting in early June means substantial snowpack through avalanche terrain. Starting in late July means you might be hiking into late September, increasing the likelihood of sustained snowfall and bitter temperatures.
At all times on the Great Divide Trail, hikers should be prepared for snowfall, and as the summer winds down the likelihood of snowfall drastically increases. It is not uncommon for several snowfalls to occur throughout the summer, all with measurable amounts. Additionally, it’s common for temperatures to go below 20F in mid-to-late August.
Great Divide Trail Navigation
The go-to navigation on the Great Divide Trail is the FarOut (previously Guthook) app. All of the alternates are up to date and it works along the entire trail. However, receiving updates and comments can be hard to come by given that there are only a handful of spots along the entire trail with service. This is a great reason to bring a satellite messenger like a Garmin InReach.
As with all tech, it’s important to have some kind of backup and know how to use it. The Great Divide Trail Association has free topo maps of the entire trail. Just make sure you know how to use a map and compass before heading out, and print the maps with a laser printer so they don’t bleed if they get wet/rained on. We mailed each section’s maps in our resupply boxes.
Great Divide Trail Terrain
With around 138,000 feet of elevation change, the Great Divide Trail terrain is constantly changing. Hikers will travel through alpine meadows, scree fields, and valley trail networks. A substantial amount of the trail is at or above treeline, with sweeping alpine views. Only about 100 hikers attempt the full trail each year, leaving some sections very remote and quite rugged. The remoteness also means trail maintenance can be very sporadic. Part of this means there are several areas with long stretches of deadfall. There are sections with route-finding and off-trail travel but most of these sections will be on alternates. If you follow the official route you can expect less than 5% of the trail to be true route-finding.
Great Divide Trail Resupply Strategy
A resupply strategy is necessary on the Great Divide Trail. Throughout the trail there are five true resupply points, with a few other options if necessary. These resupply points will range from towns such as Jasper, Alberta, to car campgrounds with a small camp store. The shortest section is around 60 miles, while the last section is 173 miles. Mail drops are the best option. While it’s possible to resupply directly from all of these places, it’s extremely expensive and very limited. For example, at Saskatchewan Crossing (at the end of Section D), a pack of Pop-Tarts is $12.
Currently all resupply points (except Boulton Creek at the end of Section B) accept resupply boxes. This can either be at the post office as general delivery or by arranging it with your accommodation. Access to these resupply points is relatively easy, and any road walking will be under three hours. Most people will hitch as some spots are on a busy highways with little to no shoulder.
One thing to note is the snail pace of Canada Post to some of these resupply locations. A few locations are very remote and may only receive their mail once a week; if you miss the cutoff day this could potentially be a two-week delay. In general, try to have your resupply boxes arrive a month early. Also, I highly suggest mailing them from within Canada to avoid any problems with the border. Canada Post is exceptionally slow compared to the United States Postal Service so plan accordingly.
Great Divide Trail Logistics: Zero Days, Water, Bear Safety
Zero Days: Zero-day accommodation is part of the other preparation that must be done for the Great Divide Trail. With a very short hiking season and limited places to stay, accommodation for a zero-day can be very competitive. As soon as you have your itinerary penciled in, make your bookings for zero-day accommodation. Just make sure you can change it if your finalized campsite reservations alter your plan. The busiest spots will be Boulton Creek, Lake Louise, and Jasper. Finding a place to stay in Coleman can be easier but take note of when the Sinister 7 ultramarathon is taking place as the entire town will be booked up.
Boulton Creek books up fast, so try to book your campsite the day it opens up. Reserving a powered site is worth it. Also check the map of the campground as some sites are a 10–15-minute walk to showers and the camp store.
If you are staying at the HI-hostel in Lake Louise and in Jasper, consider getting a Hostelling International membership. You will end up saving money if you stay two nights at each of the locations. Both of these hostels will fill up and last-minute bookings can be impossible in places like Jasper, so book these early.
Lastly, Saskatchewan Crossing Resort will likely be your most expensive accommodation, but can be a great place to hang out with other hikers as it’s the only option other than stealth camping outside the park boundary.
Water: One of the best parts of hiking the Great Divide Trail is the abundant, wonderful quality of water all along the trail. It is very rare to go 10 miles without access to flowing water, and many sources are glacier fed. Most hikers will carry 2L or less and only a few campsites along the entire trail are dry.
Bear Safety: The entire Great Divide Trail travels through grizzly and black bear territory. Bear-proof food storage is necessary, whether you use a bear can or an Ursack. Several campgrounds will have bear lockers in Section C, but outside of this section they are very limited. The PCT method won’t cut it as you will sometimes be above treeline or there won’t be adequate trees for a proper food hang.
Note: Permits and resupply are the other major logistical issues on this trail, which we covered above.
Know Before You Go
Camping Reservations: We cannot stress enough the monumental task of camping reservations, so have this all lined up before they go live. This means you can’t really adjust your itinerary once it’s booked, so be honest with yourself about your comfort of hiking in snow if you are heading out early.
Bugs: The bugs can be life-altering. Most hikers will bring a bug head net to keep some sanity. Bug spray can have up to 30% DEET in Canada; if you want anything stronger make sure to purchase it ahead.
Weather: Lastly, prepare for weather. Sustained rain and/or snowfall is almost certainly going to happen. Decent rain gear and strategies for handling moisture and cold weather will pay their dividends.
To recap, the Great Divide Trail doesn’t have the same kind of feel compared to the Triple Crown trails and only has around 100 thru-hike attempts per year. You will see some other thru-hikers if you start on the popular days like July 1, but once you are mid-hike, most people around you won’t even know about this trail.
With long sections and heavy food carries, it is far from the easiest trail out there, and without any phone service and limited spots to bail it can be intimidating for new hikers. That being said, if you are looking for long stretches of uninterrupted raw wilderness and countless astounding views this is the trail for you.
Additional Great Divide Trail Resources
The Great Divide Trail Association has sample itineraries and resources for planning a trip. They also run the Great Divide Trail Hikers Facebook page, which has updates on closures, trail status, weather, and other information you might want to know before and during a hike. It’s also a great place to meet up with other hikers.
Great Divide Trail Association
Great Divide Trail Hikers Facebook
Permits and Reservations
Alberta Public Lands Camping Pass
Accommodations
Shuttles
Austin is a hiker, snowboarder, and student living in Nelson, British Columbia. He is a weekend hiker turned thru-hiker after his 2021 NOBO GDT hike and is happy to call the West Kootenay Mountains his home.
